According to the technology of assembling the walls of a house from profiled timber, it is necessary to pay more attention to the laying of the first crown. To create a house from a bar, if the temperature in winter is up to -30 degrees, its thickness must be at least 15 cm.
The first timber is set according to the level, this will avoid the skew of the building. The first timber is best taken 5 cm thicker than those that will be used to build a house.
At the next stage lay inter-beam insulation and a second element is mounted on top of it.Beam connections
To connect the logs to each other, dowels are usually used, under which holes are made.
The main types of connection:
- corner connections;
- crown joints;
- end longitudinal nodes.
As a heater, it is best to use lendzhut, this material has half flax and half jute in its composition.
To perform the work you will need the following tools:
- roulette;
- a hammer;
- cord;
- building level;
- chainsaw.
Raising and fixing corners
Options for joining corners without residue:
- at the butt;
- "half a tree";
- with root spike;
- on dowels.
With the remainder
- fastening when laying in a corner "with a remainder";
- single line grooves;
- bilateral lock;
- quadrilateral lock.
There are several options for building corners:
- with dowels, under which special grooves are made in the bars;
- using a connection like tenon-groove, while a spike is made in one element, and a groove in the other;
- with help metal staples, in this case, the bars are connected end-to-end;
- through crossing logs, in each of them half the thickness is cut off, and they are interconnected.
In the locations of windows and doors use only solid material, near the openings, 2 pins are hammered. You can cut an opening in a finished log house, do it with a chainsaw, but first you need to mark up.
Warming process
For building a house, bars 15-20 cm thick are usually used, but if you plan to live in it permanently, then the walls must be additionally insulated. This can be done both outside and inside the building. Outside, siding or blockhouse is most often used, and lining or drywall inside.
The main insulation for external walls:
- Mineral wool and its analogues;
- Windproof plates Isoplat;
- Styrofoam;
- Foamed polyethylene;
- Extruded polystyrene foam (EPS);
- Sprayed polyurethane foam;
- Penoplex.
First, the wall is marked taking into account the dimensions of the insulation, so that it fits snugly between the crate. After that, the suspensions are fixed with self-tapping screws, on which they are mounted metal profiles or wooden bars.
Insulation is settled between the crate, usually these are mineral wool slabs, which are attached to the wall with fungal dowels, instead of cotton wool, you can insulate with foam, but it has a number of disadvantages (vapor-tight, combustible), the advantages include high sound and heat insulation, low price.
At the next stage, to protect the insulation, a waterproofing layer is mounted, while its foil side should be turned outward, and all seams should be glued with adhesive tape. Now it remains to close the facade with siding or blockhouse.How to level a wall in a house if it arched
Sometimes there is a problem such as deformation, this can happen for several reasons:
- If they brought not dried timber and its final drying takes place already in the wall.
- In case of violation of the installation technology, when the insulation was incorrectly laid and moisture gets between the logs.
If you notice the curvature of the wall in time, then this can be corrected. In those places where deflections appeared, as well as near window and doorways impose a tire from a channel or the same beam and is installed vertically along the entire height of the wall on both sides of the building.
Tire attachment it is carried out at least at three points; for this, metal studs with a diameter of 10 mm and wide washers are used. It is necessary to tighten the nuts well, but you should not expect an instant result.
It may take up to several months until the wall takes on its normal shape under the influence of the tire and external weather factors.
If with the help of tires it was not possible to completely level the walls, then you can give the house an attractive look by finishing its facade.
If you decide to build a house from a bar yourself, then to get a quality result, must be respected the following recommendations specialists:
- Pay special attention to the choice of material, of all conifers, pine is most often used;
- It is better to use wood harvested in winter, if it was harvested in summer, then it is better not to heat the house in the first year, and in the second year it is necessary to maintain the temperature within 16-18 degrees.
- Shrinkage occurs over three years, at which time slight cracks may appear on the walls, which is quite normal, after which surface changes stop.
- When creating a window or doorway, they need to be made a little more than necessary, otherwise the frame will be crushed during shrinkage of the house, the gap is filled with soft insulation.
- To eliminate lateral displacement, the bars are interconnected using dowels.
- It is impossible to connect the bars with nails, because when they dry out, the tree hangs on the nails, and large gaps are obtained.
In contact with
Profiled timber has deservedly become one of the most popular materials for the construction of low-rise wooden buildings. But this does not relieve him of the shortcomings inherent in all other building materials from solid wood. That is why when using profiled timber, it is necessary to strictly follow the technology of its laying. In this article, we will try to fully disclose the issues that may arise when assembling a house from profiled timber.
The sequence of laying profiled timber
We will assume that the foundation for the house has already been erected and managed to gain the necessary strength. Given the relatively small mass of profiled timber and the house built from it, it is advisable to opt for economical options for the base: a shallow tape or a bored foundation.
The first crown is the most important
One of the most vulnerable wooden house- the first, lowest, crown (one row of bars forming the contour of the house). The reason is simple: it is closest to the surface of the earth. Moreover, it is in direct contact with the foundation, which “pulls” water well. Therefore, for starters, it is necessary to shield the first crown from the foundation with a layer of waterproofing. This can be a layer of bituminous mastic applied to the base, two layers of roofing material, etc. A lining beam with a thickness of 100 mm and a width not less than the width of a profiled beam is laid on the waterproofing - another intermediate link between wall material and foundation. It is best if the lining beam is made of larch, which is distinguished by good resistance to decay. But even in this case, the material will have to be treated with antiseptic preparations. The construction of a house from profiled timber has begun.
Next, the lower crown is laid, which is a beam with one (upper) profiled side. All horizontal planes treated with an antiseptic, after the composition has dried, a layer of jute sealant (5 mm thick) is laid on them. Floor beams can crash into the first crown, but it is better if they rely on the foundation grillage: when rotting lower crown will be less problems with his replacement. It is preferable if the first 2 crowns are made of larch.
About the treatment of timber with antiseptics
Considering that after assembling the house you will have the opportunity to process only accessible parts of the walls, protection of all other surfaces must be carried out until the profiled timber is laid. It is advisable to do this before the immediate assembly of the house. Tikkurila, Senezh, etc. can be used as antiseptic compounds.
Seal for insulation
Ideally, the use of jute is necessary only for corner connections profiled timber - the most vulnerable places at home. But some types of profile, for example, Finnish, initially involve laying a jute tape along the entire beam in its middle part. The main purpose of the jute sealant is to reduce the ventilation of the walls. Usually a layer of 5 mm is sufficient.
Connection with dowels
Nagel - a pin, spike, used to fasten elements wooden structure. Represents an oblong fastener with square or round section. It can be wooden (when assembling a house from a profiled beam, it is better to use this one), metal or plastic. Fastening with dowels is used in cases where the moisture content of the timber exceeds 20%. This is done so that when it dries, the beam does not turn out, and cracks do not form between the crowns - the dowel works on bending and prevents the beam from bending.
- only two beams are connected to each other - no more;
- pins alternate in a checkerboard pattern, the distance between them should not exceed 1500 mm (see diagram below);
- pins should be approximately the same humidity as the beam;
- from the previous paragraph it is obvious that it is better if these are wooden products;
- holes for them are drilled vertically, by 1.5 beams;
- the diameter of the holes may exceed the diameter of the fastener by a maximum of 1 mm. It is better if it is the same (the dowel is driven with a wooden mallet, recessed into the timber);
- the length of the pins should be less than the length of the hole by 20-30 mm (shrinkage compensation)
And remember, according to the technology of laying profiled timber, nails cannot be used!
Preparing for the shrinkage period
Door and window openings are either cut out in the walls, or they are provided in advance (house kit). window blocks installed on required level, and the door ones are installed on the first crown. The blocks are fastened along the entire end of the opening, a gap of at least 50 mm is left above the box, which compensates for the subsequent shrinkage of the house.
If it so happened that a profiled timber of natural humidity was used, then after the construction of the log house, a temporary roof is erected to protect it from precipitation. The building is left alone for a period of 6 to 12 months - until the timber dries out and the house shrinks. Only after that you can start finishing work.
About shrinkage of a house from profiled timber
On the Internet, you can find information that profiled timber, for example, of natural moisture, is characterized by 4, 5, 6% shrinkage. But in order to be ready for a real change in the geometric dimensions of the beam, you should familiarize yourself with GOST 6782.1-75 “Softwood lumber. The amount of shrinkage. We will leave the information presented there without comment. We only note that the amount of shrinkage directly depends on the difference between the values of the initial and final moisture content of the profiled beam.
You have probably heard more than once that the best time to assemble a house from a profiled timber of natural humidity is winter. And it's not so much that winter wood some kind of special one: before the summer, the log house will be able to partially dry out in more mild conditions than if the construction took place in a hot season. Uniform drying is the main antidote to severe deformations in the bar.
A few words about projects, etc.
If you ordered a house-constructor made according to the project, then the latter should have a section with design documentation, which indicates the sequence of all work on assembling a house from a profiled beam. It remains only to call a couple of friends for help and you will be able to assemble the log house yourself. And for those guys who ordered building materials with moldings, it remains only to wish good luck: such savings of your nerves are not worth it!
Houses built from profiled timber are popular, and this is no coincidence. Among the main advantages of the house, it is worth highlighting the speed of installation, since during the construction process the structure is assembled in a short period of time. To build a house from a profiled beam with your own hands, you must follow the advice of experts.
Initial construction stage
First of all, they draw up a design project. In the process of drawing up a plan, it is important to take into account all the nuances that will affect the cost of material and work. You can make a plan yourself or turn to professionals who know their business and can do this job.
When harvesting wood yourself, it is worth considering the fact that it is better to do this in the cold period of time. It takes a long time to dry the wood. But in frost it is better to refuse work, as a wet tree becomes brittle.
To build a house, you need to use wood that has a moisture content of no more than 20%, otherwise it will lead, and cracks will appear in the walls.
In the process of choosing wood, it is important to give preference to a material without cracks. Next, the log is cut and treated with an antiseptic. If desired, you can purchase a tree already processed, in which grooves will be cut. As a result, folding the house will not be difficult.
In order to understand how to do quality work, it is important to follow the rules.
Building a house
Building a house must begin with a definition desired type foundation. For this purpose, it is necessary to investigate the occurrence indicator ground water, get acquainted with the structure of the foundation of neighboring houses, as well as the composition of the soil.
For wooden construction great option a pile, columnar or strip shallow foundation is considered.
Strip foundation device
- Work begins by marking the boundaries of the foundation along the internal and outside corners future construction with a cord and pegs.
- After markup, it is checked. To do this, the diagonals are measured - they must be the same.
- Further along the markup, they dig a trench about a meter deep.
- Geotextiles can be laid on the bottom, and along the outer edge of the trench, thermal insulation material- this will protect the shallow strip foundation from freezing.
- Pre-moistened sand is poured, the layer of which reaches 10 cm, and it is rammed.
- After that, the same layer of sand is poured and rammed again.
- From above they fall asleep with crushed stone, adhering to the previous thickness (10 cm). This cake needs to be thoroughly tamped.
- Formwork is being done. You can assemble it yourself or order from specialists. The first option assumes the presence of a tree in which there are no cracks. It can be made non-separable using fiberboard plates. Custom formwork must be made of plastic or steel. The formwork is placed in a trench and leveled. You can increase the strength with the help of a frame made of reinforcement Ø 10 mm. Experts recommend using two reinforcement belts. They cannot be placed at a distance closer than 3 cm from each other, but they must enter the trench freely, without touching its edges.
- The formwork is wetted with water and concrete is poured.
- If the formwork is made of wood, it must be moistened with more water. Otherwise, the wood may absorb moisture from cement mortar, and even better, cover the boards with plastic wrap.
- The formwork can be removed a few days after the mortar has dried.
- As insulation material use plates of extruded polystyrene foam, 5 cm thick. The foundation at the corners is insulated with a layer of 8 cm.
- The sides of the foundation need to be pitched.
- The surface of the foundation is insulated with roofing material, laying it in 2 layers.
- Performed backfilling excavated soil.
floor construction
For walls, a bar with a section of 150 × 150 mm is required. After laying the first row, it is treated with an antiseptic. They also mount the floor logs, which are laid on the edge. The cross section of the beam should be 100 × 50 mm. They can be placed on the foundation and attached to the walls of the structure.
Two logs are placed on walls opposite each other. A building thread is pulled between them, maintaining a distance of one and a half meters. The threads will indicate the level at which it will be possible to set and mount other lags.
The gaps formed between the lags are filled with insulation, which is used as foam, mineral wool or expanded polystyrene. If the boards intended for laying the floor reach a thickness of 40 mm, the distance between the logs should be about 80 cm. The height of the log is adjusted with thin plywood wedges, which are fastened with self-tapping screws or long nails. Lags and wedges are fixed on wooden base wood screws or long nails. When installing a log on a concrete base, dowels or anchors are used.
Now you can attach the boards. The best option there will be boards with a section of 25 × 150 mm. To do this, you need to step back from the wall 1 cm and strengthen a number of boards, focusing on the thread. If the boards will be fastened with self-tapping screws, a hole is drilled for them, after which the board is attached to the logs. The rough floor must be covered with a layer of thermal insulation and waterproofing. For this, polyethylene or penofol is used. Laid on the subfloor wood flooring from grooved board.
Walling
In the process of work, the bars are laid out alternately. At the same time, they are fastened together with dowels, which do not allow the beam to move. The material for the dowels is wood or metal.
It is better to purchase wooden dowels, as metal ones can rot.
- In order to build walls with dowels, you need to drill holes in the logs into which they will be inserted. In this case, the diameter of the hole will be 4 cm. The distance between the holes should be 1.5 m.
- When laying the bars, it is important to lay insulation between them. For partitions, you can use a bar with a cross section of 100 × 150 mm. They are performed only after the completion of the construction of the log house.
- You can reduce the cost of a house by building internal frame walls. To do this, create a frame of bars, the cross section of which is 50 × 50 mm and sheathe it with clapboard.
- For fire safety at home it is covered special means, which is applied with a regular brush or with a spray gun.
- Installation of windows is carried out only after shrinkage of the structure. You can give preference to metal-plastic or wooden windows.
Most suitable option ondulin, metal tile or corrugated board is considered.
- First of all, before laying the Mauerlat, the wall is insulated with a waterproof material. This is necessary in order to keep the timber from rotting. As an insulating material, roofing material is suitable, which is placed in a couple of layers.
- Then they fix the Mauerlat, which is presented in the form of a beam. The best option would be hardwood treated with an antiseptic. Such material will be an ideal support for wooden rafters. The bars are laid out with the help of a level along the entire length of the walls, from the pediment to the pediment. To fix the Mauerlat, you need to use a 12 drill, the length of which reaches 300 mm. Mauerlat is drilled and entered to a depth of 200 mm into the wall of the house. They take the cut reinforcement, using a sledgehammer, hammer it into the drilled holes. The ends of the reinforcement can be bent.
- Install beams, then rafters. Lastly, the crate.
- After the walls are erected, ceiling joists are installed. At the same time, their ends protrude 50 cm beyond the edge of the wall. The cross section of the log should be 50 × 100 mm. They are laid out on the edge. The distance between them is 90 cm.
- Gather roof structure, the basis of which are boards with a section of 50 × 150 mm. This system should be maximally reinforced with crossbars and braces.
- Lay the fronts made of timber, the cross section of which is 150 × 150 mm.
- A crate is nailed to the rafters (section 25 × 150 mm).
- To prevent condensation from accumulating, a vapor barrier is performed with a layer of waterproofing, after which the roofing material is installed.
How to insulate a house from a bar
In order to save money on heating in the future, it is important to pay attention to the insulation of the house. outdoor thermal insulation occurs by reducing the moisture content of the bars. The most popular finishing option is lining. You can also use mineral wool, flax jute fiber, glass wool plates. The latter option is laid using a foil vapor barrier layer. Thus, the heat will be turned inside the room.
It is not recommended to use polystyrene foam when insulating a house from a bar, as it prevents the evaporation of moisture from the wood, which can lead to rotting of the material. It is better to use a membrane vapor-permeable layer.
For wall cladding inside the house, you can use lining or drywall.
Many people mistakenly believe that a house made of profiled timber does not shrink. Of course, it is not so big, but it is important to remember this, and not to install windows and doors rigidly.
Provided step-by-step instruction will allow to cope with the work of any person, even without experience in this kind of construction.
Video
This video shows assembly eco house from profiled timber:
Watch a video on which timber profile to choose for a house under construction:
A photo
For our country wooden buildings not uncommon at all, so the advantages that natural materials are familiar to many. But nothing stands still, and now the technology of building from a bar has made some changes to the installation, compared with a log house.
Below we will talk about the types of timber, how to assemble it, and also watch the video in this article that matches our topic.
Building a house
As you probably know, timber can be smooth and profiled in its configuration, and the technology for assembling a house from profiled timber is somewhat different than that of a smooth one. Also, a milled profile can be either from solid wood or glued, and although this does not affect the assembly process itself, it does finished building very different timing.
Material selection
- First of all, you need to decide on the material for building a house, and since we are talking about timber, then the corresponding requirements are imposed on it. By itself, wood is a fairly rigid material and is not inferior in strength even to some metals, moreover, it is an excellent noise absorber, which means it is a sound insulator.
The negative qualities of wood include its combustibility, instability to water and a tendency to deformation in the form of shrinkage of the building in the first time after construction.
- The most weather resistant are conifers wood, also such a profile is less prone to decay compared to the rest. In addition, the technology of assembling walls from timber implies two types of material - solid wood and glued profiles.
The first option, with natural humidity after the construction of the house, provides for its shrinkage within 10-12 months, and only after that it can be finished and operated, and the second option does not shrink, therefore, further operation can be started immediately after installation. - In addition, the technology for assembling a house from a bar with your own hands depends on its profile. So, profiled timber structures are folded like a designer, where all spikes and grooves are provided and calculated for assembly, but for a smooth profile it is necessary to equip all the joints yourself, which, of course, takes much more time and requires a certain skill.
Log assembly technique
- First of all, a salary is set, but this must be done on roofing material in order to create a cut-off waterproofing. However, there may not be a basement, as such, if the house is mounted on a pile or column foundation - in such cases, the crown timber will be laid on the grillage. But we'll talk about it below.
- When assembling, the technology of a log house from a bar may differ slightly, and you can see this from the drawn examples that are given above.. For example, corner joints are often assembled “in an oblique paw” and tightened with a metal bracket, that is, it is simply hammered into each joint from above.
They are cut under the partitions with a "frying pan" or, as it is also called, a "dovetail", but this is meant as an option, and not as a final and irreversible assembly instruction.
Advice. Although it is believed that a gasket is not required on the crown crown, it is better to lay a groove with tow.
This will protect the connection from possible gaps in case of chips.
Advice. When you can skip some areas, as the compositions do not have color.
To prevent this from happening, you can add a little stain to the solution, as you can see in the photo above - so you can clearly see the result of the coating.
- After installation of salary technology wooden houses from a bar implies the installation of a lag for the floor (in large rooms they should be doubled) and fixing them with capercaillie. The next step is to install the first crown.
- The beams are fastened together wooden dowels, about a meter apart, hammering them into pre-made holes in the form of nails. A temporary floor should be laid along the logs so that it is convenient to move on construction site during further work.
The subsequent bars are mounted in the same way, that is, connecting with each other with dowels, at the corners joining “in an oblique paw”, and in the gaps (partitions) with a “frying pan” or “dovetail”.
- It is possible that you will not be able to lay out the entire wall with crowns, and you will have to increase the profile, then the method of connecting to the end butt with a crest is used. This connection provides reliable connection and, in fact, two crowns are enough on the wall - the upper and lower rows, and all other rows can be laid from a prefabricated profile.
For partitions, a thinner beam is usually used, since it does not carry a heat-insulating function.
Advice wooden beam from a solid array, the thing is quite heavy and it is quite difficult to raise the profiles to the top of the wall when it grows.
Therefore, you can make such a simple device in the form of a ramp from the same material - this will make your work much easier.
Upstairs, each beam is lifted by a drag, tied to it from the spirit of the sides of the rope.Roof
- To equip the roof, beams are first laid on the finished log house, and then temporary flooring is made, exactly as it was done on the floor, so that it is safe to walk on it. This is practiced in order to be able to collect rafter legs directly at the installation site, without lifting the finished structure from the ground to the roof.
- It is best to assemble the rafters in the leg (at the top point) with bolts - the connection is reliable and easy to perform, and use a beam for this 150 × 50 mm or 200 × 50 mm. For temporary fixation of the structure, you can use ordinary slats, 25 mm thick, simply by nailing them loosely on both sides.
The step between the rafters is determined by the technology of timber houses depending on the height of the ridge - from 40 to 100 cm (a small step is necessary for arranging the attic).
- From below, the cut rafters are installed on the beam, nailed, and then pulled together with a metal bracket. The entire structure must be checked with a level so that each leg is strictly vertical, and then we fasten the ridge beam.
Also, to complete the frame at this stage, racks and struts are screwed or nailed.
- The final touch of working with the frame will be its crate under roofing materials. To do this, you can use both edged and unedged board, 20 or 25 mm thick, but the thickness parameter must be maintained in one size.
Roofing material is laid under the roof (most often it is corrugated board or metal tile) and this is done simultaneously with finish coating- it is more comfortable.
Types of foundations for a wooden house
- We promised to tell in general terms about the foundations that are used for the construction of wooden houses. Given that the technology of timber walls allows you to mount light structures, the base should not be powerful and therefore it is often used for such purposes. screw foundation. Installation takes place quite quickly, without prior drilling of wells.
- Also, piles can be wooden or bored, but the most durable foundation is tape. On such a foundation they put large houses, even several floors. In addition, with a strip foundation, you can equip a basement or basement.
Eco-friendly and high quality characteristics inherent in wooden housing construction. From round timber, our grandfathers collected entire towers, the beauty of which still arouses admiration. And thanks to modern antiseptics and neomid wooden frame not afraid of fires and fungus. In installation on your own, it is easier to use a beam of the correct shape. How to make a log house from a bar with your own hands, the main stages of installation, the rules and recommendations of specialists can be found in this article.
We design your house
Before assembling a house from a bar, it is necessary to choose the right project. Log cabins are assembled according to standard or individual projects, may differ in architectural complexity or have simple shapes. If you plan to assemble a ready-made factory log house, we recommend that you opt for standard project which has advantages:
- The log house has already been tested in operation, and the manufacturer has eliminated the main shortcomings.
- The material for manufacturing is used as economically as possible, so the price of a finished box is cheaper.
- Easier to choose finishing material and the roof, as you can see with your own eyes a few finished houses and chat with the owners.
When choosing individual design bar is the same suitable material. It has the correct shape and can be adjusted to any size. Therefore, with the advent of this lumber, it became possible to collect wooden boxes the most complex and unusual form.
By choosing a beam of the desired section, any project can easily be adjusted to any region with different average temperatures and climates. For garden or country house suitable material of small section: 100x50 mm, 100x100 mm. For permanent residence a timber with a section of 150x150, 150x200, 200x100 mm is taken. The easiest option square section- 150x150 mm. Square shape allows you to quickly assemble the walls without the selection of technical and outer side. But provided that the bar is simple. In this case, a section of 150x150 mm must also be insulated.
One of the economical options is profiled material. The spike and groove on the technical sides of the beam are firmly connected during installation and create a reliable barrier to the wind. The walls are insulated with a tape heat insulator, right during assembly. And if the front and back sides are additionally polished, then after assembling the box, you only need to go along the walls paintwork material and the house is ready to move in.
A separate group is a log house made of glued lumber. This beam consists of lamellas, which are interconnected under the influence of a press and glue. But scientists are still arguing about the environmental friendliness of glued lumber. From the positive stands out: high strength of the walls and increased thermal insulation properties. So for the construction of a residential building from glued material, a section of 100x100 mm is suitable, with winter temperature up to -15 degrees additional wall insulation is not required.
When choosing a project, it is worth considering what type of timber the walls will be assembled from. Since further Finishing work, which means additional material investments.
Where to start?
When the project is selected, the assembly of the log house from the timber begins. The basis of the house is being prepared - the foundation. Because material is light then any type of foundation will do:
- Columnar;
- Ribbon grillage;
- Tape.
We do not recommend monolithic, as this is the most expensive option, which will be cost-effective only if the soil is mobile and heavily crumbling. For loose soil with a high groundwater table, pile or columnar foundation. How to build a house if the soil is swampy and mobile? wise to use screw piles. It is easy to mount them with your own hands, and there will be less “walking” in the future. But, choosing a columnar or pile foundation, it should be understood that in the future the basement of the house will have to be additionally framed and insulated. Otherwise, there will be no basement or cellar in the house, and heat loss after the basement is insulated will decrease by 15%.
One of the most popular types foundation for a wooden frame - tape. It got its name for its external resemblance to a concrete strip rolled out on the ground. The height of the foundation is selected individually and is associated with the characteristics of groundwater.
At high level occurrence of groundwater and freezing in winter time more than 1.2 m, you can use the tape grillage option. The design combines concrete tape, but on piles every 1.5 - 2 m. And first the piles are poured, then the formwork is made under the ribbon. Before pouring, it is recommended to calculate the cubature of the foundation, this will reduce the cost of concrete.
A detailed technology for assembling a strip-grillage foundation is disclosed in one of the previous articles.
Lego for adults
The manufacturer will deliver the finished log house to the site in a sealed package, it will be easier to assemble it with your own hands. It is difficult to assemble your house from a solid bar without experience and skills, since the correct connection of the corners is required. But more on that below.
strapping
Before laying the first crown, it is necessary to waterproof the foundation. The tree is airtight, and through microcracks in the foundation, moisture will get to the first crown and over time it will begin to rot. For work you will need materials: bituminous mastic(price from 350 rubles) and roofing material (price from 220 rubles)
Waterproofing is carried out as follows:
- From above, the foundation is smeared with hot bituminous mastic.
- The first layer of roofing material is rolled out from above. When joining, the material is overlapped.
- The roofing material is again smeared with bituminous mastic.
- Is rolling out finishing layer roofing material.
The width of the roofing material should exceed the width of the foundation by 15–20 cm. The remaining ends of the roofing material can later be hidden under the plinth sheathing.
First crown
The first crown of the log house is laid according to the level on the dried waterproofing. The cross section of the first crown is larger than the others in the box. This will increase the stability of the structure.
The first crown of the log house is the most important in the design, so to increase durability it is worth overpaying for larch or aspen. They are less susceptible to moisture, and over time acquire a hardness comparable to iron. But we do not recommend using aspen from the Volga region. The tree has a fragile core and is not suitable for construction in 90% of cases.
Before laying the first crown is covered protective compounds(Sanezh, Belinka Bio, Tikkurila, Neomid 440 and Valtti Aquacolor (price from 120 rubles / l). The laying of the first crown is carried out on laid out slats or a lining board. The slats are laid in increments of 30–40 cm across the foundation tape, the boards are sewn to base with metal pins.Racks are 10 mm thick and create an additional gap between the foundation and the strapping, which creates additional ventilation.Wooden strapping is attached to the foundation with metal anchors.But the box is attached to the base only for light structures. Big houses several floors is quite heavy and will not move from the base without additional fasteners.
Folding the box
It is not difficult to build a log cabin from a ready-made kit, but with solid timber will have to move. There are several options for corner joints of a beam with a balance and even:- Assembly in the paw. At the ends of the beam, spikes and nests are cut out for them. It has disadvantages: it is blown, over time the material will dry out and serious insulation will be required.
- AT dovetail. The option is similar to the previous one, but has a special cut at an angle. Minus the difficulty drank.
- Into the bowl. In each beam, a bowl is made from below for the upper link. The top crown fits into the bowl and creates an airtight connection. Cons: you will need a skill and a special cup cutter.
- Half a tree. Half of the section is sawn in each end part. Fits into the resulting nest top crown. Minuses in blowing and unreliability of the connection. To increase grip, a dowel is made of wood, which connects the ends.
Corner connection with the remainder is considered warmer and more reliable. The corners and the timber are additionally connected to each other with the help of dowels. Nagels are used wooden or metal. The latter option is more reliable, but when the log cabin dries, cracks form in the walls, and the metal pins spoil appearance at home. Wooden dowels can be made independently from the remnants of lumber or birch. Nagel will give the structure additional strength, and will not allow the beam to twist when it dries. Nails are attached to every two crowns, skipping one, in increments of at least 150 cm.
A jute insulation is rolled between each beam (price from 110 rubles). If the material is profiled, then between the spikes and grooves there is a special chute for laying tape insulation. If timber joints are needed along the length, then a joint in the root tenon is used. The essence of the connection is in the sawing of a spike and a groove, which are securely connected and additionally fastened with dowels.Internal partitions in a log house can not be immediately assembled. They are made with a smaller section material and are attached to the main walls. But if you plan a two-story log house made of timber with your own hands, then at least one partition is assembled immediately. It serves as an additional support.
Draft floors can be laid immediately. They further serve as the basis for a warm "pie" of the finishing floor. Mineral wool or ecowool, foam plastic can serve as a floor insulation. Most inexpensive option use foam, it will give additional sound insulation between floors.It is not recommended to cut window and door openings in a log house immediately. The building must stand. Even chamber drying during the first three months will shrink at least 3%, natural humidity not less than 10%. Before inserting the frames, a pigtail is made, which will give the structure greater strength and prevent distortions during the walking of the soil.
Choosing a roof and roof
A rough roof is erected until complete shrinkage. If the beam chamber drying or glued, then the shrinkage is negligible and you can proceed to the finishing roof. As roofing suitable any material: corrugated board, ondulin, soft tiles. Most economical option for garden houses- roofing material or slate. The step of the crate will depend on the choice of the roof. How softer roofing and the lower the roof, the more often the crate is made. For example, under soft tiles and the substrate is made of thin plywood.The design of the roof is selected individually. But the fewer bends and corners in the design, the more reliable it will be. The simplest option is shed roof or gable, they are assembled by hand.
going to rafter system with laying ceiling logs. A bar with a section of 100x50 mm is suitable for work. The technical side will be 50 mm. The front and frame of the truss system are assembled from a material with a section of 150x100 mm. They are attached to the Mauerlat, which is laid on upper part walls. A bar with a section of 150x150 mm is taken as a Mauerlat. The most difficult thing in installation is to install the first rafters and matrix. You can fasten the truss system to the walls using metal brackets or anchor bolts. Logs and Mauerlat are connected to each other with the help of a thorn-groove lock. Readers can read more in the article on roof installation.
The finished roof is insulated and waterproofed. This is necessary to reduce heat loss in the house. Next, proceed to additional insulation and finishing. Full shrinkage wooden house give after three years. This time it is not recommended to carry out grandiose design finishing works, but it is already possible to live in the house.
What's the price
As you know, the road will be mastered by the walking one, but the owner’s hands are not always sharpened under construction works or work eats everything free time. Specialists will assemble the log house in a few weeks, and the quality of work will be high. The price of installation will depend on what work needs to be done. There are two types of standard services for the installation of log cabins:- Full construction.
- Easy Assembly.
The service differs by the list of works. Turnkey installation includes: foundation (filling, formwork), box assembly, truss system, roofing, draft floors and ceiling, installation of windows and doorways, all internal partitions. Simple assembly may include individual works. For example, the foundation is made by hand, and the box and rafter system are assembled by specialists.
