There is no doubt that a full-fledged garage should be equipped with a viewing hole used for periodic inspection and repair of a car. It makes sense to make a pit for inspecting the bottom of the car even if its owner does not have the skills self service technology that belongs to him. As for experienced drivers, the latter, without any doubt, only benefit from the presence of a pit. Indeed, in the case of self-service car, they get quite significant benefits, which are as follows:
- significantly reduced production costs associated with the repair of the machine;
- the performer, as a rule, receives moral satisfaction from the work done by his own hands.
Besides, in major garage the inspection pit is very convenient in that through it it will be possible to organize access to the cellar.
Arguments "for" and "against" a viewing hole
However, before doing viewing hole in the garage, you should familiarize yourself with both the arguments in favor of its arrangement, and the arguments against it. The following weighty arguments speak for its arrangement:
- the possibility of conducting periodic preventive inspections of the chassis of the car and identifying possible technical malfunctions;
- significant cost savings for Maintenance machines by doing it on their own;
- exclusion from the process of possible costs associated with shortcomings in service in a car service.
Note! The arguments against the inspection pit include the likelihood of the garage being heated, as well as the danger of condensation on its walls and on the car.
In case of insufficient study of the project of the inspection pit, which does not take into account the characteristics of the soil at its location (in particular, the expected level of soil water), you are guaranteed problems with its operation. The only way out of this situation is to use a special drainage system capable of draining groundwater from the bottom of the niche.
As for the condensate that forms on the bottom of the car, which is constantly in the garage, this drawback is eliminated by covering the inspection niche with a multi-section cover.
From the foregoing, it follows that when arranging a viewing hole with your own hands, special attention must be paid to the current building codes governing the construction of this element of garage architecture, taking into account its main characteristics.
Observation niche dimensions
For effective use of the areas allocated for garage development, it is advisable to work out the issue of zoning the site at the design stage, assuming its optimal breakdown within the perimeter of the building.
It is quite logical that in carrying out these works, close attention should be paid to working area with a viewing hole located within it. In addition (provided that the area of \u200b\u200bthe building is large enough), it is necessary to include in the project a parking area located away from the viewing niche. This will allow you to protect your car from the accumulation of condensate, which can have a damaging effect on its bottom.
When choosing the linear dimensions of the future viewing niche, one should proceed primarily from the dimensions of the vehicle itself, as well as from considerations of the convenience of working in it, i.e. take into account the physical data of people working in the pit).
Note! When preparing a pit for a viewing hole, its length is selected with a small margin necessary for arranging several descending steps. In garages big size steps can be stationary, while in smaller garages more economical option- the so-called ladder. For a safe descent into the pit, the length of the projection of the stairs to the bottom of the pit should not be less than 1 meter.
To determine the width of the pit, one should proceed from the parameters of the wheelbase of the vehicle, taking into account possible modifications. In the event that you have not yet decided on the model of the car, choose the average value of this dimension (about 75-80 cm).
The depth of the pit is chosen taking into account individual characteristics owner, which allows you to create enough comfortable conditions work in it. In this case, the optimal value of this parameter is set by the formula: human height + 12-15 cm.
Additional requirements for dimensions
When carrying out repair work in the inspection pit, you will certainly need a set of tools, access to which should not cause any difficulties. That is why special niches should be provided in the inspection pit, in which it will be possible to store the most demanded tools, as well as part of the auxiliary equipment used when servicing the car (tanks with fuel and lubricants, rags, etc.)
In addition, it is desirable to provide a multi-section "lid" for the pit, which would allow it to be closed as needed. As such a cover, it is allowed to use prefabricated edged boards made to the size of the pit with a slight overlap.
Arrangement of the bottom and walls of the pit
The final dimensions of the prepared pit are determined taking into account the thickness of the walls and the improvised floor of the future pit, consisting of alternating layers of well-compacted sand and gravel.
If the soil at the location of the pit has high humidity, a thick layer of clay is laid on top of the sand layer, which is then covered with gravel. In this case, the clay layer plays the role of waterproofing, protecting the niche from wet fumes. In this regard, it should be noted that clay mixed with petroleum oil processing waste has good waterproofing performance. A plastic film is covered over the clay, and only after that the concrete solution is poured.
The walls of the pit before pouring concrete are also finished with clay, followed by fixing on it polyethylene film. Then, along the entire perimeter of the pit, a prefabricated formwork is constructed, recruited from ready-made shields or knocked together from edged boards. To increase the reliability of the structure in the manufacture of formwork, additional spacers and struts are necessarily used. In order to increase the strength of concrete piers during their pouring, special reinforcing elements are often used (chain-link mesh, for example).
After the formwork is ready, all the free space behind it is filled with previously prepared concrete mortar with filler. During the pouring process, the finished solution is thoroughly compacted with the help of a special “rammer”.
Note! Most convenient way the arrangement of the walls is considered to be the use of pre-welded metal frame or frames. Such a frame base can be made of metal corners or channels independently; moreover, its fixation in the formwork is carried out using special fastening elements (anchors).
The upper cut of the frame should rise slightly above the floor level, which ensures reliable protection from accidental hit of the wheels of the car in the alignment of the inspection hole. The formwork should be removed no earlier than after a couple of weeks, after which the walls should “settle” for at least another month, which will allow the concrete to gain the necessary strength.
Another way of finishing a viewing hole is possible, which consists in laying out its walls from ordinary bricks. But if for some reason all of the listed methods of wall decoration do not suit you, you can choose the most cheap option, consisting in covering the bottom and walls of the pit with roofing material and followed by sheathing the entire surface with oiled boards (as an option - with ordinary flat slate sheets).
Waterproofing
Before you build a viewing hole, you will need to decide on a waterproofing material, the choice of which is on modern market big enough. At the same time, among the endless range of insulating materials, the following positions stand out:
- penetrating type waterproofing;
- waterproofing protection made on the basis of polymeric membranes;
- bituminous waterproofing.
Penetrating waterproofing is sold as a liquid lubricant, which can be applied even to a wet surface. Its protective function consists in deep penetration into the concrete (brick) finishing material and blocking the process of moisture formation.
The membrane method of waterproofing surfaces and fences is used only when carrying out internal finishing works and is considered the best. True, the decision to use this method should be taken only after you evaluate the costs associated with its implementation.
The fact is that the application of a protective layer of the membrane type is possible only in the presence of special spray devices, the cost of which, as a rule, is quite high. In addition, even before working with these devices, you will need to master the techniques for soldering individual sections of the membrane coating. In the event that all these conditions are feasible for you, you will receive an ideal waterproofing, the service life of which is practically unlimited.
Waterproofing of the inspection pit based on bituminous roll materials(rubemast, roofing material, etc.) is the cheapest way to protect the surfaces of structures from penetrating moisture. During the installation of materials roll type on the surface to be protected, individual workpieces must be laid with a small overlap of about 15 cm.
In this case, the joints of adjacent rolled sheets must be soldered using special heating devices or glued using ready-to-use compounds.
Pit insulation
It is clear that necessary condition the effectiveness of the work carried out in the inspection pit is to maintain in it comfortable temperature. That is why, before making a viewing hole in the garage, you should thoroughly consider the issue of its insulation. Among other things, reliable thermal insulation will allow you to save on electricity used to heat the entire garage as a whole.
Most experts believe that the most suitable material for pit insulation with a good price-quality ratio is polystyrene foam, well known to us. Moreover, it has a number of advantages inherent in most polymers used in construction:
- high resistance to decay;
- good water resistance;
- the possibility of reliable adhesion to brick or concrete bases.
Suitable for wall insulation synthetic material type PSB-S-25, and for the floor, polystyrene grade PSB-S-35 with a thickness of 50 mm is usually used. On top of the wall insulation and the floor can be finished ceramic tiles, the material of which is resistant to chemicals and moisture.
Lighting and ventilation
When making a viewing hole with your own hands, you should definitely make sure that it has electric lighting, without which repair work under the bottom of the car is simply impossible.
The necessary illumination at the place of work must be provided by special portable lamps powered by a transformer with an output voltage of not more than 36 V. At the same time building codes do not imply the installation of any sockets within the viewing area, which is flagrant violation TB requirements.
It will be possible to increase the comfort of the conditions of stay in the inspection pit by arranging in it the simplest ventilation system, consisting of flexible hose supplying fresh air to the work area.
Video
A garage with a pit is the dream of every car enthusiast. An inspection hole allows you to save on car repairs, oil changes and other work related to the bottom or suspension of a car. But for many, such pleasure remains only a dream. In this article, we will try to prove that this is not such a difficult task, and anyone can do it.
Before you make a viewing hole in the garage with your own hands, you need to make several calculations and measurements.
Placement planning
At the very initial stage, it would be desirable to find out how deep the groundwater is. Arrangement of a viewing hole in the garage obliges the presence of a depth of groundwater at least 2.5 meters deep. If the water area chosen for the garage is located higher, then it is better to abandon the conceived idea. If there is no desire to call special services to measure the depth of the waters, then you can ask the neighboring garage owners how they are doing with the pits.
Depending on the information received about groundwater, it is necessary to plan the waterproofing of the inspection pit. Some car enthusiasts refuse it milestone, referring to the fact that the groundwater is too deep and does not rise as high. However, the geological situation can change at any time. Besides recent times Seasons of the year suit us with such surprises, when in one day a monthly or even an annual rainfall can fall. In such situations, anything can happen. Therefore, ignore the waterproofing basement or pits in the garage is stupid.
Considering climatic conditions and low temperatures in winter time, the garage pit can be additionally insulated. by the most the best option for these purposes, foam is considered. It is not afraid of moisture and does not lend itself to the processes of mold or suppuration. It is necessary to insulate the excavated pit from the outside, that is, the foam layer should be located between the wall of the pit and the earthen clod. Expanded polystyrene must be protected from wet ground with a layer of waterproofing.
The correct arrangement of a viewing hole in the garage cannot do without ventilation. The ventilation system will play a very important role for the car, tools and things stored in the garage, as well as the car enthusiast himself. In favor of this point are the following problems that can be solved with the help of properly thought out and executed ventilation:
- The formation and retention of moisture in a closed, cold room (its excess adversely affects the operation of the car and other tools);
- Selection harmful substances and fumes from the vehicle and other items stored in the garage;
- no flow clean air in winter with the gates closed.
The ventilation system in a homemade pit can be made according to two schemes:
- General ventilation;
- Autonomous ventilation.
General ventilation implies the presence of two pipes that have access from the garage to the street. One of the pipes transports fresh air from outside and distributes it throughout the main room and the inspection pit. For such manipulations in the pipe there is a tee with an entrance - exit to the garage - exit to the pit. The second pipe provides exhaust air to the outside from both rooms. Its lower edge is located at the very top of the pit and takes away polluted air, under the ceiling of the garage there is a second hole in the pipe, where all the “flavors” of its floor part go. Outside, the exhaust air is thrown out through the upper edge of the pipe, which rises 50 cm above the roof level. The entrance and exit of the ventilation pipe should be located on opposite walls of the garage.
Autonomous ventilation of inspection pits is used extremely rarely. To organize it, it is necessary to carry out two pipes under the walls of the garage or bring them to the roof. The inlet pipe should be located at the bottom of the pit, and the outlet pipe should be at its top. outer edge inlet pipe should be placed at a level of 50 cm above the ground and protected with a special grid. The street part of the outlet pipe must be raised 2-2.5 m above the ground and covered with a metal tip in the form of an umbrella. Such a device will protect the pipe from the penetration of additional moisture and dirt into it.
A prerequisite for arrangement good ventilation is to check it at the final stages. In order to test ventilation system, it is enough to bring a lit match, candle or lighter to its outlet. In this case, the flame of fire should go inside the pipe, as if it were being sucked in there. If you bring the light to the inlet, then a stream of air should blow on the flame - perhaps the fire will even go out.
In the planning scheme for a pit for a garage, it is also desirable to take into account two more important points - sources of additional lighting and openings in the wall in the form of niches
Niches will be very convenient fixture for a car enthusiast - at any time you can put something in them for the time of work or store frequently used things or tools in them. Their location should be taken into account when developing a sketch and erecting walls. For the arrangement of such recesses are often used metal boxes or temporary wooden models, which are subsequently concreted.
When planning lighting, the following nuances must be considered:
- The voltage inside the inspection pit should be no more than 36V (220V is prohibited in such rooms);
- The wiring cable should be protected as much as possible - it is advisable to place it in a special metal corrugated pipe;
- Lamps must be used in 12V or 36V - LED ice lamps are the best option (tungsten lamps are prone to explosions).
Important! If you take into account all the above tips, then as a result you won’t have to finish or redo anything. After all, repairing a viewing hole in a garage or dismantling it is not an easy task, and even much more effort and nerves can be spent on it than on the construction of a new structure.
Construction materials
If the groundwater is very deep, then you can make a pit with your own hands from brick or foam blocks. If the soil under the garage is different high humidity, then it is best to fill it with concrete. The fact is that concrete is not afraid of moisture, but rather grows stronger under its influence. For concrete pouring, it is necessary to additionally reinforce the wall.
Here is a list of all the materials that you may need to equip the pit with your own hands:
2. Crushed stone;
3. gravel;
4. Cement;
5. Beam 30x30 or 40x40;
6. Board 25mm or plywood 10x15 (for formwork);
7. Board 40-45mm processed (to cover the pit);
8. Reinforcing bar 6x8 (for reinforcement);
9. Dense polyethylene, roofing material, butyl rubber or aquaizol (for waterproofing);
10. Corner 50x50 (for fencing the pit and fixing its perimeter);
11. Wire 1.5x2 (for tying reinforced mesh);
12. plastic pipe 100mm (ventilation);
13. Brick, foam blocks or cement (for building walls).
Pit options
Before digging a hole, it is necessary to determine its parameters and apply markings to the surface of the earth or floor.
When marking, it should be borne in mind that in a built-in garage with a floor screed, drawing is much easier than in the absence of a garage. On bare ground, you can use pegs or four beacons driven into the ground around the entire perimeter, on which a rope is stretched, forming the shape and dimensions of the future ditch.
In the case of a built garage, another problem arises - digging a pit in it is much more difficult than on open area earth. In this situation, it is impossible to use the services of technology - you will have to do everything yourself. In addition, it would be desirable to enlist outside help, since in addition to digging, it will also be necessary to take out open ground. Such work will take much more time and effort. It is better not to take the excavated earth far away, since it will still be needed to bury the opening between the lined and soil edge of the pit.
1. As a rule, the width of the pit directly depends on the distance between the wheels of the car - it should be 20 cm less than this distance;
2. It is necessary to take into account the fact that perhaps someday there will be another car in the garage, therefore it is advisable to take the average width - often it is 80-85cm;
3. The length of the pit also depends on the length of the car, but both smaller and larger sizes can be used (many make the pit a meter longer than the car, and some who do not have large space, on the contrary, they shorten the pit - then the car has to be driven either in front or in the back);
4. The depth of the pothole is calculated based on the height of the garage owner - it is advisable to add 10-15cm to his full height.
When calculating the dimensions of the pit in the garage, you must also take into account the gap for laying walls and pouring the floor. If you plan to lay brick walls or pour concrete, then it is advisable to increase the pit by another 25-30 cm. If it is decided to lay them out of gas blocks, then in addition you need to throw another 40cm. Filling the floor will also steal about 20cm of height. The presence of waterproofing implies the addition of 15-17cm.
Action algorithm
1. We dig a ditch.
2. Rom a trench for ventilation (if a stand-alone system is to be used).
3. We tamp the floor. This process consists of several stages. First, carefully tamp a layer of earth, then pour a five-centimeter layer of crushed stone or gravel on it and also tamp it well. We add another five-centimeter layer to the compacted layer of crushed stone. With the last ball we make a layer of sand 5 cm. Some experts prefer to repeat all the layers again, while others manage in one go.
4. Waterproofing. We cover the bottom and walls of the pit with waterproofing material, the pieces of which are overlapped by 15-20 cm. If we use roofing felt, then we process the joints with mastic, if polyethylene or other materials, then we glue the joints double sided tape. On the upper edges of the pit, we fix the waterproofing with something heavy.
5. We carry out installation of ventilation.
6. Install reinforced mesh on the floor. Before placing the reinforced mesh on the floor, we cover it with insulation. If the foam was not planned to be used, then we fix the grid at a level of 5-7 cm.
7. Fill the floor. It is desirable to concrete the floor with cement grade M-400. We maintain the proportions of sand, crushed stone and cement in accordance with 2: 2: 1. It is advisable to use a concrete mixer, if it is not there, it is better to add a plasticizer, liquid glass or liquid soap. If we use insulation, then we make a layer of concrete about 5 cm, if we do not use it, then at least 10-12 cm.
8. We pause until the concrete sets. Depending on weather conditions, you will have to wait from a week to two.
9. We build walls, not forgetting about openings for lighting and niches.
10. We lay a corner on the wall frame made. It can be attached using mortgages welded to it (if it was decided to lay out a brick) or long studs (if the wall was made of concrete).
11. We fill the opening between the ground and the walls of the inspection hole with a mixture of clay and soil, carefully tamping all the layers.
12. We make a floor screed.
13. We build a cover for the pit.
Walling
If it was decided to build walls of brick or other blocks, then stepping back from the soil layer 10-12cm, you need to start laying. For the accuracy of erection, you can pull the threads that will serve as a level. In the process, it is desirable to reinforce the masonry every couple of rows. ventilation pipes needs to be laid down. The masonry mortar is prepared from sand and cement in a ratio of one to three.
If the walls will be erected from concrete, then before pouring them, it is necessary to equip the formwork and install the reinforcing mesh. For the manufacture of formwork, you can use boards or plywood (it does not let the mortar through, and thanks to it the walls are smoother). It is best to support the plywood from the inside and outside with bars so that under the weight of the solution it does not bend and deform the wall. Exactly in the middle between the plywood, you need to place the reinforcement grid. It is recommended to pour the solution at a time. It will be possible to remove the formwork after the concrete has completely dried (from a week to two).
We hope to familiarize ourselves with detailed instructions and having examined all the photos given in this article, it will become much clearer to you how to make a viewing hole in the garage with your own hands. Do not forget if you bought a ready-made garage.
It would seem that building a viewing hole + in the garage is as easy as shelling pears. However, this event is associated with a lot of various subtleties, ignorance of which often leads to disastrous consequences, for example, corrosion of the bottom of the car. To avoid unpleasant surprises should be very carefully approached as a planning stage, preparatory work as well as direct construction.
Pit planning
Strange as it may seem, but before building a viewing hole, it is necessary to consider a number of details that have a significant impact on the comfort of the conditions for inspecting or repairing a car.
pit dimensions
An inspection pit, the dimensions of which do not allow you to straighten up to your full height or move freely even when inspecting a car, is of no value, since repair work can take quite a long time, and the lack of the minimum necessary comfort will entail frequent breaks for rest, or contacting a car service. Based on this, the dimensions of the pit must correspond to the following parameters:
- The depth of the inspection hole consists of the growth of the car owner + 15-20 cm;
- Width - depends on the brand of the car, therefore, to determine it, it is necessary to measure the distance between the front or rear wheels. At the same time, the width of the pit should be slightly less than the value obtained in order to safely drive into the pit without fear of falling into it. In addition, you should not discard the fact of a possible change of car to another model. Based on these considerations, optimal width the inspection hole is 70-75 cm;
- Length - calculated from the length of the car + 1 m for free descent into and out of the pit. At the same time, it is not worth making the length of the pit less than 2 m.
During the construction of the pit, the obtained data must be increased by the amount of allowances, including the width of the waterproofing and heat-insulating layer, as well as the thickness of the concrete layer or brickwork. On average, the size of the allowance varies between 20-30 cm.
waterproofing
The variety of waterproofing materials differs both in the method of laying, the operational period, and in cost. In addition, the thickness different kind waterproofing is not the same, therefore it is necessary to choose a waterproofing material at the planning stage in order to leave the necessary allowance when determining the dimensions of the excavation.
The following materials can be used as waterproofing for a viewing hole:
- Bituminous, represented by roofing material, euroroofing material, rubemast, etc. this case laying of material is carried out on bituminous mastic in 2 layers. In this case, the joints are overlapped by 20-25 cm and glued with hot bitumen. The service life of this category of waterproofing is 10-15 years;
- Polymer single-layer or multi-layer membranes have a longer service life, exceeding 50 years. Laying membranes requires reinforced frame with cells 10x10cm, covered with geotextile. In this case, the membranes are overlapped by 10 cm, if there is a self-adhesive base, or by 30 cm if it is not available. The resulting joints are subject to mandatory gluing using special equipment. Relatively recently, polymeric geomembranes have appeared on the market, which already include a geotextile layer;
- Penetrating compositions are represented by dry mixtures diluted with water before direct use. They are applied over the concrete layer, penetrating deep into its structure and blocking water seepage to the surface. However, this method is more often used as an additional waterproofing layer;
- A mixture of oily clay in combination with oil refining waste as an independent waterproofing agent is used quite rarely against the background of modern materials, significantly superior to the mixture of clay both in terms of the operational period and in terms of the degree of tightness. However, it is often found in combination with other types of waterproofing.
thermal insulation
To insulate the inspection pit, polystyrene acts as an ideal heat insulator, since it has excellent thermal insulation characteristics and minimum water absorption. Wherein wet conditions in no way affect the decrease in the level of thermal insulation properties.
niches in the wall of the pit
Inspection and especially car repair is accompanied by the use of various types of tools. In order not to climb up to the garage for the required device every time or not to stumble over the tools scattered at the bottom of the pit around the entire perimeter of the pit or in some places, niches of various sizes can be arranged where the necessary fixtures and parts will be located. Thus, the presence of niches contributes to the speed and convenience of repair work.
lighting
If a portable lamp is used for lighting, then planning in this case is eliminated. However, lighting a viewing pit with stationary lighting fixtures requires wires to be brought into the pit and a recess in the wall for installing an outlet, so here you should decide on the location of the light fixture and its power source.
ventilation
Even a heated garage will not save the viewing hole from condensation. In addition to creating a certain microclimate in the pit, ventilation contributes to the influx fresh air and outflow essential oils and other chemicals used in car repairs. The easiest way to build ventilation for a viewing hole is to bring a flexible air duct of small diameter out of it to a height of 25-30 cm from the garage floor. At the same time, the removed end of the ventilation must be closed with a mesh and a lid to prevent various debris from entering it.
Based on the foregoing, a preliminary account of even the smallest details will significantly save time and financial resources.
Inspection pit construction technology
After the details of the future structure are thought out and the necessary materials purchased, you can proceed to the implementation of the plan, observing next order works.
pit preparation
- We mark on the surface of the floor or ground the area intended for the viewing hole.
- We take out the soil to the required depth and level the bottom of the pit according to the level.
- In the wall or along the perimeter of the walls we take out the ground for niches.
- We tamp the bottom of the pit.
floor arrangement
- On the earth soil we lay a layer of crushed stone, which is 10 cm, and compact it.
- On top of the rubble we fall asleep a layer of sand of 5 cm and also tamp.
- We apply oily clay with a thickness of 20-30 cm.
- We lay the reinforced mesh.
- We mix the concrete mortar from sand with cement, observing the ratio of 3: 1 and fill the floor with a thickness of 6-7 cm.
- After the concrete has hardened, apply a layer bituminous mastic and lay the roofing material, not forgetting to glue the joints with hot bitumen.
- Lay down a layer of foam.
- Fill with concrete mortar 10-15 cm thick and let dry completely.
wall arrangement
- We cover the walls with greasy clay and cover with polyethylene.
- On top of the film we impose roofing material and glue its joints with hot bitumen.
- We fix the foam to the walls with an adhesive.
- We erect formwork from boards or plywood at a distance of 6-7 cm from the wall.
- We reinforce the walls around the perimeter.
- We fill the walls with concrete mortar gradually, pouring the mixture daily to a height of 15-20 cm.
- After the concrete has completely hardened, the formwork is removed.
niche arrangement
We reinforce the top, bottom and walls of the niches with wire and coat them with clay, after which the niches can be lined with bricks or ceramic tiles after drying.
security
We make an inspection hole protected from accidental collision by a car by installing a T-shaped iron rail at the level of the main floor of the garage. In addition, this rail will serve as a frame when covering the pit during the idle period with separate boards or you can immediately put together a cover from the boards.
So, the inspection pit + with your own hands is ready. It remains only to arrange ventilation, conduct light and lower the stairs into the pit. In addition, a month after the last concrete pouring, it will be possible to line the inspection pit with ceramic tiles, bricks, or other finishing materials.
A viewing hole in a brick garage is a simple building necessary for self repair vehicle. Previously, experts advise to prepare a plan-scheme of the future structure, determine the level of groundwater, purchase Construction Materials and tools.
The inspection hole for the garage should be located in the middle of the building.
A brick observation pit is being built taking into account the purpose of the garage:
- for car storage - a pit is located in the center of the building;
- for the repair and storage of a vehicle and food - the pit is moved to the wall of the main building.
The diagram indicates the length of the pit, which should exceed the length of the car by 1 m (for arranging a comfortable descent and steps). The width of the recess ranges from 75-80 cm. The next stage is digging a foundation pit in the garage.
To do this, use a shovel and a drill with a nozzle. A drill will be required in case of rocky and hard terrain. Experts recommend pre-foresee the use of excavated land. The next step is building walls. First of all, insulation is carried out with roofing material. Top mounted hard roofing material. The viewing hole is reinforced with mesh. Then the walls in the pit are plastered. Finishing carried out after the solution has dried. Preliminarily, the edges of the recess are fixed with aluminum corners.
Additional points
If the inspection pit in the garage is built of brick, then the floor is pre-arranged, then the walls are erected.
the thickness of the partitions is a whole or 1/2 brick. If an old brick is used for the construction of a structure, then the material is preliminarily cleaned of old plaster. To do this, use the grinder. The mortar for laying bricks is prepared taking into account the ratio of 3:1. It is recommended to add liquid soap to the resulting composition. In this case, the solution will be more elastic. This will increase the hardening time, which is very important for novice builders.
To make the brick wall even, pre-stretch the cord, check the verticality. Experts advise placing niches in the side walls of the pit. They can be used to store tools. The upper rows of masonry are protected from destruction by mounting the strapping from metal corners. The last elements must be welded taking into account the formation of a shelf on which the flooring from the boards will be laid. The resulting coating ensures the safe entry of the vehicle to the inspection hole.
On the flooring we lay a wooden grate, and paint the walls with a water-based emulsion. If the viewing hole is equipped in northern regions, then thermal protection is carried out by laying polystyrene foam with a thickness of 50 mm.
Creating a pit with a close location of groundwater
Before starting work, it is necessary to clearly determine the location of the pit.The inspection pit in the garage is built taking into account the depth ground water. To do this, you need to dig a pit. If the value of the indicator is less than 2 m, then it is waterproofed. To do this, experts advise using:
- polymers with one and several layers of membranes - such materials should be laid by specialists;
- liquid or rolled bitumen is the cheapest and most affordable method of waterproofing a brick inspection pit - the service life of such a structure reaches 15 years;
- penetrating waterproofing - unlimited duration.
Waterproofing work begins with the preparation of the flooring. To do this, you need to tamp the soil. Laying in the trench bulk material. Ruberoid or brizol is laid after surface treatment of the GGP pit. The first layer of roofing material is used in strips. At the same time, an overlap of 15 cm is observed. We process the joining points with hot bitumen. If the last material has cooled down, then the 2nd layer is laid.
Experts advise isolating the inspection hole in the garage with penetrating waterproofing.
It is applied to the damp wall covering, and then to the brick. The composition of such a mixture includes a mineral filler and various additives. To prepare a sealant solution, use 1 kg of powder mixture, 0.3 l of water.
If the viewing hole in the garage will also be used for storing vegetables, then a partition will need to be made. Special attention is given to the humidity and temperature of the air in the storage. If the flooring and walls are poured with concrete, then the formwork is set up.
Arrangement of hood and lighting
For digging, it is better to use a shovel and a drill with a nozzle.The next work plan is installation ceiling, insulation of the pit, it is possible to insulate the garage itself, installation of ventilation and lighting. Extraction is necessary to ensure normal operation in the garage. If the pit provides for laying waterproofing material, then the hood is mounted before the start of work. Otherwise, its integrity will be violated.
2 pipes are mounted in the pit:
- Supply - removal of clean air masses from the street to the inspection hole;
- Exhaust - the withdrawal of polluted and moist air masses from the pit to the street. In this case, the following requirement is observed: the pipe is led 1 m from the roof level. To equip such a system, plastic or metal pipes are used.
The observation pit requires lighting. This should take into account:
- electrical safety requirements - it is recommended to draw up a lighting scheme with the help of a qualified specialist;
- to ensure uniform lighting in the room, general and local electricity is installed;
- sockets and switches are installed in the garage;
- the cross section of the copper cable should be 4 square meters. mm.
To provide the room with light, install low-voltage lamps. For their performance, it will be necessary to equip a step-down SPP.
Types of light sources
Lighting in the garage and inspection pit is carried out using:
- 12V lamps;
- 36V fixtures;
- battery lamps.
When using the above lighting fixtures, an additional transformer (200/12 V) is mounted near the meter. Experts advise installing lamps in the inspection hole daylight. They are located on two sides of the pit. Special recesses are pre-arranged. Lamps must be protected from dampness with a hermetic sheath. If you need to illuminate hard-to-reach place in vehicle then use a portable lamp. It is connected to an electric wire with a length of more than 4 m.
Lighting in the garage is carried out using lamps:
- incandescent;
- energy saving;
- LED;
- luminescent.
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Characteristics of lighting fixtures
Each lamp has certain advantages and disadvantages. Incandescent lamps are not recommended to be installed in a garage with a viewing hole, as these lighting devices are highly dangerous, consume a lot of electricity, emit light different shades. This negatively affects vision.
Fluorescent lighting it is recommended to install in a warm room. If the air temperature does not exceed +5°C, then the fluorescent lamp is not reliable in operation. Its disadvantages include the presence of mercury. Therefore, after the expiration of the service life, the lamp is disposed of.
More often, energy-saving lamps are installed in the inspection pit, which provide bright and uniform illumination, and have a long service life. Their performance does not depend on the temperature in the garage. The disadvantages of experts include high price and gentle handling (due to the presence of mercury).
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LED bulbs are used for local lighting. They don't blink when serving even light. At the same time, these devices will require a minimum of energy, without adversely affecting human health. Upon completion electrical work you can start
To
what motorist knows how sometimes you need inspection hole in the garage! It happens, a nonsense breakdown, fix it once you spit, but try, get there. Or change the oil - five minutes of work, but you have to drag yourself to the service station and pay an amount that is completely incommensurable with the work. It is worth, perhaps, to shed a little sweat, work a few days off and get rid of such difficulties forever. How to make a viewing hole in the garage with your own hands and you will learn here.
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Video version of the article
We start work. Pit marking
As for all, even the simplest structures, we begin the construction of our pit with markings, that is, with determining the shape and size of the future pit. This is necessary, especially since we will arrange a pit in an already built, or even existing one. Which, you see, complicates our task, if only because of the cramped working conditions.
We will mark the excavation based on the fact that the soil forming the walls of the excavation will have a certain slope, while the dimensions of the inspection hole must be kept within the limits that make the work convenient.
This is on the one hand. On the other hand, when parking, the driver should not be covered in cold sweat for fear that the car will fail. For insurance against slipping, we will take certain steps, but more on that later.
Based on all the requirements mentioned, we will determine the width of the pit "clean" (that is, the width of the working space) at 70 cm. This is enough for convenient operation, moreover, even for the crumbs "Daewoo Matiz" (track 128 cm) there will be room for maneuver of about 20 centimeters (between the pit and the wheel). And for the Zhiguli, with their track of 132 cm, the width can be made even larger. Five to ten centimeters, but that's not bad either.
We determine the length based on personal concepts of the convenience of work, as well as the size of the garage, but making it less than two meters is hardly justified.
On the floor of the garage we draw (or mark with pegs) a rectangle of our pit, then we add the thickness of the walls on all four sides and, guided by the qualities of soil stability, we give an approximate margin for the slope of the earthen walls. For dense loams, this value is approximately 20-30 cm.
Depth, we determine from the requirements of ergonomics, and in relation to our beloved one. It is clear that by bending over or standing on tiptoe, you will not gain much. Therefore, we calculate our pit in such a way that there would be a distance of 25-30 cm from the top of the head to the bottom of the car.
