How to lay drainage pipes in the area. Drainage pipe. Drainage system options

Special attention is also paid compliance with all technical standards. Selection of pipes, depth and angle of their laying are important points installation work.

Maintenance

Even a properly installed and well-functioning drainage system requires regular maintenance. Inspections of drainage and inspection wells are carried out once or twice a year. Owners should be alert to low water levels, which may indicate:

The arrangement of drainage solves several problems at once. The main ones are the drainage of high-lying groundwater and high water from the buried foundation of the house, reducing the load on the waterproofing of basement and underground walls. technical floors, drainage of areas on moist soils. Standard scheme The drainage system consists of water receivers and pipes laid in the ground. After reading the article, you will learn how a drainage pipe works and how the design of a drainage pipe allows you to simultaneously collect water and drain it into special wells or outside the site.

Drainage pipes are easily recognized by their corrugated surface and perforations

Types of drainage pipes

Drainage pipes differ in materials, design and even shape.

According to the type of material, there is the following classification:

• ceramic;
• asbestos-cement;
• polymer.

All of the listed materials have good frost resistance, high resistance to moisture and are not susceptible to rotting. But they differ from each other in other respects.

Ceramic

As for external sewerage, this is a traditional material that was widespread before the “polymer era”. There is even a Soviet GOST that regulates the shape of ceramic drainage pipes. Inside they have the shape of a hollow cylinder, and outside they are not only cylindrical, but also in the form of a hexagon and an octahedron.

For reference! Unlike sewerage, drainage pipes are made without sockets - they are connected using couplings that do not create conditions for the accumulation of silt at the joints. This same joining technology was later “borrowed” by products made from other materials.

Another difference from ceramic sewer pipes is the absence of a glazed layer on the outer surface.

Ceramic drainage pipes - without perforation, glazed layer and sockets Source o-trubah.com

Usually the walls of the drainage pipe have holes in the form of grooves or slits, but sometimes they are missing. Unperforated pipes are not used to collect water, but only to drain it from the site.

Advantages: Absolutely environmentally friendly and fairly long service life (up to 30 years).

Flaws: high cost, fragility, difficulty in transportation, difficult to size and lay the drainage pipe when installing the system.

Asbestos-cement

To install drainage, use conventional asbestos-cement free-flow pipes and couplings marked BNT and BNM. Unlike ceramic ones, they have a universal specialization - organizing external sewerage and drainage pipelines, protecting underground telephone cables.

In order to use them not only for drainage, but also for collecting groundwater, they need modification - cutting through slots or drilling holes.

Advantages: versatility, low cost, ease of adjustment to size.

Disadvantages: the need for modification, fragility, difficulty in laying drainage and poor environmental properties.

Drainage asbestos-cement pipe with perforation Source vse-o-kanalizacii.ru

For reference! This last quality requires some explanation. In the European Union, since January 1, 2005, the use of asbestos and products made from it has been prohibited - there are sad statistics from the Ministry of Health about the carcinogenic effect of asbestos dust on the body. And although it is believed that cement binds asbestos microfibers, when fitting and perforating holes, this dust will certainly appear. Therefore, it is prescribed that all work with this material should be carried out exclusively using protective equipment for the respiratory tract and mucous membranes.

Polymer

They are:

• rigid and flexible;
• smooth and corrugated;
• single-layer and two-layer;
• with a protective geotextile winding and an additional filter layer.

According to the degree of “ring” rigidity, several classes are distinguished, which are designated SN2-SN24, and the higher the digital index, the more the pipe can withstand the pressure of bulk crushed stone, sand and soil.

Almost the entire range of this category has perforations on the surface with different patterns. There are also those that have one row of holes, which, when laid, are placed on top to collect sedimentary water. But more often the holes “encircle” the entire surface so that installing the drainage pipe is not difficult and allows water to seep in from all sides.

Polymer drainage pipe with perforation Source otdelkagres.ru

Besides the "standard" cylindrical, there are flat corrugated drainage pipes. They do not have such a high throughput, but, thanks to the additional stiffening rib, they are more compressive in a horizontal position. And in a vertical position, they take up less space and do not require large-scale excavation work.

In addition to perforated pipes, there are products made from porous polymer. Open communicating cells and wall porosity (at 80-90% of the volume) replace perforation and serve as an excellent filter against the penetration of sludge inside. But even in this case they resort to additional protection in the form of a geotextile winding, which is used either to wrap the pipe at the production stage, or to wrap it during the installation of the drainage system.

New products include drainage pipes that have an additional filter layer made of granulated polystyrene foam. It is located between the wall and the geotextile winding. And when laid in a trench, they do not require backfilling with a layer of crushed stone.

All these subtleties of the drainage pipe design determine the methods of its installation.

Types of drainage pipes depending on the material and type of soil in which they will be laid Source papamaster.su

Species-wide deficiencies in polymer pipes No. A wide price range and a large assortment of types of materials, sizes and devices allow you to choose the best option for each case.

General advantages: long service life, high resistance to mechanical loads and damage, ease of adjustment and installation.

Laying technology

For the system to work properly, you need to know how to properly lay the drainage pipe, depending on the type. For each drainage pipe, the installation technology will vary slightly depending on the design. But the initial stage is the same for everyone:

• Develop a drainage scheme: location of pipes, places for wells and revisions.
• Depending on the type of soil, geological characteristics of the site, location of groundwater and the required bandwidth choose the size and type of drainage pipe.
• Based on the intended route for wiring drainage pipes on the site, site planning and markings are carried out for excavation work.

The ideal option is when the drainage scheme is developed together with the house design Source mainstro.ru

• They dig trenches. On dense soils with straight walls, on loose soils - with sloped walls, or strengthen them during work. The bottom is made 30 cm wider on both sides of the pipe.
• Level the bottom surface, compact the soil, form a slope towards the drainage well within 0.5-3.0% (minimum 0.5 cm and maximum 3 cm for each meter of length).
• Pour a layer of coarse sand about 15 cm thick and compact it, observing the slope laid down during the formation of the ditch bottom.

Further technology for laying the drainage pipe depends on its design.

Laying a drainage pipe with geotextile, if it does not have a factory winding:

• Geotextiles are laid on top of the sand. The width of the canvas should be sufficient so that the edges can then be brought together.
• Pour a layer of crushed stone (15 cm).
• Lay a perforated pipe and cover it with a layer of crushed stone on top.
• The edges of the geotextile fabric are wrapped and fastened together. As a result, the pipe should be uniformly filled with crushed stone on all sides of about 15 cm, the textiles should run along the sand-crushed stone boundary, and there should be free space left to the walls of the trench.

The principle of drainage is that water seeps through geotextiles, crushed stone and perforation, then flows by gravity through the pipe to the well Source pogreb-podval.ru

• Pour a layer of sand on the sides and top (about 15 cm).
• The removed or imported fertile soil is put back.

Note! You can buy geotextiles separately, choose perforated pipes without wrapping and wrap them before carrying out work.

Video description

Watch the video below to see how the drainage system is installed:

For deep drainage, two-layer ones are most in demand in civil engineering. corrugated pipes from polymer materials with additional filter shell. And the same profile, but without a geotextile winding, is used for the construction of closed-type storm drains.

The internal walls have a smooth surface, which ensures high self-cleaning and does not create prerequisites for silting of the horizontal part of the drainage system.

The outer walls are corrugated with a ring profile, which provides the required rigidity. The corrugated surface also allows the use of O-rings when connecting pipes with couplings and tees.

For installation in areas with normal operating conditions (blind areas, lawns, pedestrian paths), ring stiffness class SN4, SN8 is sufficient.

To install drainage under access roads or parking areas, choose pipes with ring stiffness class SN16-SN24.

Video description

For a clear overview of the choice of drainage pipes, see the following video:

Conclusion

The durability and strength of the foundation, the absence of water in the basement during the rainy season and melting snow, the normal moisture content of the area and the “health” of green spaces depend on a properly designed and installed deep drainage and storm sewer system. Therefore, drainage and drainage must be handled by specialists.

Building a house is a responsible and very expensive undertaking. Naturally, any owner wants the constructed building to last as long as possible. And to do this, it is necessary to protect the foundation of the house from the destructive effects of soil water, that is, build drainage. Let's look at how to lay drainage pipes with your own hands, what materials are used for this, and what nuances need to be taken into account when performing this work.

The construction of drainage seems to many to be an optional event. In fact, protection from soil water is very important. Properly constructed drainage helps avoid dampness in the basement and prevents the destruction of the materials from which the foundation of the house is built.

In addition, drainage installation may be necessary on a personal plot or in a country house if high-lying waters interfere with the growth of trees and shrubs. Let's consider the main points of constructing drainage systems.

Before describing the construction technology, it is worth understanding what drainage is and in what cases its construction is necessary. So, drainage is a system of pipes that is used to drain soil water from the foundation of a building, as well as to drain the site. In what cases is it necessary to build drainage?

• If a building is being built that will have a basement.
• If the site is initially swampy, or the soil is heavy and poorly permeable to water.
• If you plan to make changes to the natural topography of the site - level the sites, build artificial hills, etc.

Where to start?

First of all, it is necessary to find out how deep the soil waters lie. This can be done by studying the water level in nearby wells. The well, which is dug to a depth of 5-15 meters, is filled just to the groundwater level. In addition, from the marks on the concrete walls of the well you can understand how high the water rises during the flood period.

Advice! The ideal solution for determining the level of soil water is to conduct a geodetic examination by a specialist.

Next you need to decide on the type of drainage. The easiest way, of course, is to build an open drainage, that is, simply dig trenches with a slope. However, such a solution will not decorate the site, so most owners choose a more labor-intensive construction option.

We select materials for construction

Today there are more convenient and available materials– corrugated pipes made of polymer materials that already have ready-made perforations.

The main advantages of using plastic pipes

• Corrugated pipes are characterized by increased strength; they can be laid to a considerable depth - up to 10 meters.
• The service life of polymer pipes is at least 50 years.
• Connecting plastic pipes is easy to do yourself using couplings
• The pipes are easy to transport, unload and install, as they are quite light.
• To cut plastic pipes, you do not need to use a special tool.

Advice! To prevent pipes from clogging with soil particles, additional filters are used - geotexile or coconut fiber material.

Installation of drainage systems

Let's look at how drainage is installed and what are the nuances of pipe laying.

Planning

At the first stage, a scheme for laying drainage pipes should be drawn up. A preliminary geodetic examination of the site will be very helpful in carrying out this work, as a result of which the types of soil and the level of groundwater will be determined. Based on the results of the examination, the diameters of the pipes are selected, as well as the depth of their installation.

Advice! It is advisable to entrust drawing up a drainage diagram and performing calculations to specialists.

Pipe laying

• A layer of sand 15 cm high is poured into trenches dug to the required depth.
• Geotextiles are laid over the sand so that the edges of the fabric cover the sides of the ditch.
• A layer of fine crushed stone is poured onto the geotextile.
• Pipes are laid on top of the crushed stone with the perforation down.
• When laying pipes, it is necessary to maintain a slope directed towards the collection well. Slope size – at least 3 degrees
• To be able to monitor the operation of the system and, if necessary, flush it, you need to plan the installation of inspection wells. The minimum distance between wells is 50 meters. In addition, wells must be placed at places where the pipeline turns or when its angle of inclination changes.
• The choice of filter for the pipe depends on the type of soil. If it is light sandy loam or loam, then it is worth using pipes wrapped in geotextiles. In heavy soils, it is more profitable to use pipes wrapped in coconut fiber cloth.
• Crushed stone is poured over the laid pipes; as a rule, the thickness of the top filling is 40 cm.
• The top layer of crushed stone is covered with geotextile, which was previously secured to the sides of the trench.
• The trenches are covered with soil from above and covered with pre-cut turf.

Mistakes you shouldn't make

• Incorrect selection of pipes. For example, pipes without a filter cannot be used in loamy soils.
• Unmaintained pipe slope.
• Incorrect choice of location for installing a collection well or untimely removal of water from it.

So, the drainage system is a necessary element to protect the house and site from excess soil moisture. When installing drainage, it is extremely important to correctly develop its design and carry out installation in strict accordance with the technology. Errors made during installation will lead to the fact that water from the foundation will not be drained in full, that is, the efficiency of the system will be reduced.

And now a briefer but more succinct guide to the proper installation of drainage pipes:

Drainage pipes are laid in trenches 0.7-1.6 m deep, expanding upward at an angle of 10-20°; the width of their bottom is 30-40 cm. If it is known that water will flow to the drainage pipe only from above and from the sides, a pipe wrapped in geotextile can be placed directly at the bottom of the trench. Although to level the surface and create required slope do it more often sand cushion. If the drainage pipe will collect water from all sides, a return filter consisting of a layer of sand (5-10 cm) and a layer of crushed stone (5 cm) must be poured under it. Sometimes the return filter is constructed only from sand. Its task is to trap small dusty and clay particles that can clog the drainage pipe. Less water flows from below than from the sides and above, so the return filter should not be too thick. A drainage pipe is laid on it (or immediately on the bottom, as in the first case), surrounded by a volumetric filter - some kind of protective filtering material: geotextile of a certain density or coconut fiber.

Filters for drainage pipes are selected depending on the type of soil. In “difficult” conditions, when pipes are laid in clay soils, a coconut fiber filter works best. Several foreign companies, for example Wavin, Uponor, supply pipes already wrapped in coconut filter material. Their cost is approximately two to three times higher than the cost of similar drainage pipes without filters. For light loams and sandy loams (lighter soils with a lower content of clay particles), bulk geotextiles are used. This is a fairly thick (2-4 mm) non-woven or needle-punched material weighing 250-450 g/m2. Its filtering capacity is lower than that of coconut fiber. On sandy soils, you can use thin filters, fiberglass and other similar materials weighing 150-250 g/m2.

The drainage pipe wrapped in a filter is covered with crushed stone to approximately 1/3-1/4 of the depth of the trench. Now, for backfilling, they take crushed stone of a medium fraction (about 20-40 mm), while theoretically it would be more correct to do this: the first layer is crushed stone of a large fraction (40-70 mm), the second layer is of a medium fraction, the third is a small fraction (less than 20 mm). Typically the thickness of the top fill is about 40 cm. Minimum layer, capable of providing optimal mode water penetration into the drainage pipe is 20 cm. A layer of geotextile is laid on top of the crushed stone to prevent mixing of crushed stone and those located above bulk materials- sand (layer 5-10 cm thick) and fertile soil (15-20 cm). To make the system work more reliably, the volumetric crushed stone filter is sometimes also placed in a protective casing made of geofabric, the cost of which is about 30 rubles. for 1 m2. Such expenses are often justified when compared with the cost of maintaining the system. Sometimes the pipe itself is not wrapped in geofabric in this case, but such a system will become clogged faster and the likelihood of silt plugs forming in it is higher.

The depth of the trenches and, accordingly, the location of the drainage pipes depends on the type of soil, groundwater level and what will grow in the drained area. For mineral soils, the optimal trench depth is from 60-80 to 120-150 cm. Please note that a groundwater level of 60-80 cm is quite acceptable for lawns and flower beds, about 90 cm for forest trees, 120-150 cm for fruit trees. When drained, groundwater will be established at a level of approximately 0.7-0.9 of the depth of the drainage pipes. By the way, according to experts, for the free development of an apple tree this depth should be 2-2.5 m, cherries and plums - 1.5-2 m, berry bushes(currants, gooseberries, raspberries) - 1-1.5 m. peat soils all trenches should be a little deeper - 100-160 cm, since the peat continuously “sits” throughout its “life”. This is due to three reasons: the surface above the drainage pipe settles; a layer settles under the drainage pipe; peat decomposes into substances that become water-soluble and are washed away.

The depth of the drainage pipes is determined taking into account one more factor - the location of the aquifer. This is the name given to the layer of waterproof rocks that bound the aquifer. If the aquiclude is located close to the surface of the earth (for example, at a depth of 70 cm), then the pipe is laid to a depth of no more than this distance. Water will arrive to it only from the side and from above. The drainage pipe, which lies inside the aquifer, receives water from all sides - of course, if there are perforations around the entire circumference of the pipe. An example of waterproof horizons is heavy loamy and clayey soils with a low filtration coefficient: water passes through them very poorly or not at all. An example of aquifers is sandy and sandy loam.

The minimum slope of drainage pipes required for normal water flow is 0.003, that is, 3 mm per 1 m of length. In practice, it is increased to 0.005. If the natural slope of the soil is significant, then it can reach 0.01-0.02. However, it is not recommended to make a large slope - the water should drain smoothly and evenly. Drainage should always be carried out taking into account the relief, so as not to argue with nature.

The spacing of drainage pipes depends on the type of soil. On heavy soils, clayey and loamy, pipes are placed more often: at a distance of 4-5 to 12-15 m from each other. On light soils, sandy loam and sand, less often, every 20-30 m. On average, it is believed that a drainage pipe 1 m long drains an area of ​​10-20 m2. To drain sports and children's playgrounds, the gap between the pipes is halved. Trees should not be planted closer than 2 m to the right and left of the drainage pipe. It is recommended to plant bushes (for example, lilac) maintaining a distance of 1 m.

The problem of flooding and increased soil moisture is familiar to owners of plots located in the central region of Russia. Dampness and stagnant water after snow melts do not allow proper preparation summer cottage to the summer season, and waterlogging of the soil with constant precipitation is detrimental to many plants. There are several ways to solve these problems, but the most effective is the arrangement of drainage.

In what cases is a drainage system necessary?

Drainage is a technology for collecting and discharging groundwater, melt and storm water from a site, technical and residential buildings. The drainage system prevents leaching, heaving and waterlogging of the soil, which occurs due to oversaturation with moisture.

Arrangement of a drainage system is not necessary at every site. In order to determine how much your area needs drainage, you will need to conduct a visual inspection. Pay attention to whether the area is flooded after the snow melts, how quickly water is absorbed after watering the plants, whether there are puddles after heavy rain and downpour. If you have observed these signs more than once, then drainage is required.

The drainage system helps remove stagnant water from the site

If visual confirmation is not enough, then you can conduct a simple experiment - using a hand drill or an ordinary shovel, you should dig a hole 70–100 cm deep. It is better to do this in several places on the site. If after 24–36 hours water accumulates at the bottom of the hole and does not leave, then this is direct evidence of oversaturation of the soil with moisture.

Soil drainage is carried out under the following conditions:

• high groundwater table;
• the site is located in an area with clay soil;
• the site is located in a lowland or vice versa - on a slope;
• falls out at the location of the site large number precipitation.

The presence of drainage helps preserve finishing and facing materials used for styling garden paths, finishing of the basement and facade of the building.

Types of dehumidification systems

There are a great variety of land drainage systems. Moreover, in different sources their classification may differ greatly from each other. In the case of drainage systems for suburban and summer cottages, it is recommended to use the simplest and most proven solutions.

Surface type drainage

Surface drainage is the simplest and most efficient system. The main task is to drain the soil by draining water formed as a result of rainfall and uneven melting of snow.

Grids protect the open drainage system from large debris

A surface drainage system is constructed over the area of ​​the site, around the house and adjacent buildings, approx. garage structures, warehouses and courtyard. Surface drainage is divided into two subtypes:

1. Point - in some sources referred to as local drainage. Used to collect and drain water from a certain place on the site. The main area of ​​application is drainage of areas under drains, approx. entrance doors and gates, in the area where containers and watering taps are located. Often used as an emergency system if another type of drainage is overloaded.
2. Linear - used to drain the entire area. It is a system consisting of receiving trays and channels arranged at a certain angle, ensuring a constant flow of water. The drainage system is equipped with filter grids and sand traps. Trays and drains are made of PVC, polypropylene, HDPE or polymer concrete.

When installing a surface drainage system, it is recommended to combine point and linear drainage. This will ensure the system operates most efficiently. If necessary, point and linear drainage can be combined with the system described below.

Deep drainage

Deep drainage is carried out in the form of a pipeline laid in places where constant drainage of the soil or lowering of the groundwater level is necessary. Drains are laid with a slope in the direction of water flow, which enters a collector, well or reservoir located outside the site.

The process of constructing deep drainage in a suburban area

To lower the groundwater level, pipes are laid along the perimeter of the site to a depth of 80–150 cm. In cases where it is necessary to drain water from the foundation of a building, pipes must be laid below its depth. And also drainage pipes can be laid over the entire area of ​​the site with a certain pitch. The distance between drains depends on the depth of their placement and the mechanical composition of the soil.

For example, when installing a drainage system, when drains are laid to a depth of 0.9–1 m, the recommended distance between them is at least 9–11 m. On loamy soil under the same conditions, the step between drains is reduced to 7–9 m, and on clayey up to 4–5.5 m. More detailed data for different depths can be seen in the table below. Information taken from the book “Draining land for gardens” by A.M. Dumblyauskas.

When laying the pipe, the features of the terrain are observed. According to the technology, drains are laid from the highest to the lowest point on the site. If the area is relatively flat, then to impart a slope, a slope is formed along the bottom of the trench. The minimum slope level is 2 cm per 1 running meter of drainage pipe when constructing drainage in clay and loamy soil. For sandy soil, a slope of 3 cm per 1 meter is maintained.

When installing long drainage, you should follow minimum slope along the entire length of the drainage route. For example, for a drainage system 15 m long, the minimum level difference between the starting and ending points of the route will be at least 30 cm.

If possible, it is recommended to exceed the stated slope standards. This will ensure faster drainage and reduce the risk of silting and clogging of the drain. In addition, digging a trench with a large slope is much easier than measuring 1–2 cm.

Drainage in a summer cottage - the simplest methods with instructions

In order to independently drain a plot of land using a drainage system, you will need to familiarize yourself with the technology of work, calculate and purchase the necessary materials, prepare tools and a place to perform the work.

Surface drainage of a summer cottage

Open surface drainage is universal solution for draining summer cottages small area. For example, for typical plots of 6 acres. You can take the diagram below as a basis. It shows a herringbone-shaped drainage route. The distance between the drains, as stated above, is selected based on the type of soil (see table).

An example of the location of the drainage system in a summer cottage

To carry out the work you will need a shovel and a bayonet shovel, a tape measure, bubble level, hammer and sharp construction knife. The materials you will need to prepare are gravel of fraction 20–40, geotextiles, edged bars or boards 2–3 m long.

To construct surface drainage on a summer cottage, you will need to do the following:

Sometimes, the base of the trench is concreted along the entire length of the drainage route. This allows you not to worry that over time the earthen walls will begin to crumble, water flow will deteriorate, etc. But this approach is more labor-intensive and requires the ability to work with concrete mixture.

Draining the area using deep drainage

Deep drainage is standard solution for drainage of country houses and suburban areas. A deep drainage system can be installed even when there is a protective blind area, concrete or slab paths around the building. If necessary, they can be partially dismantled, but the overall structure will not be damaged.

An example of a drainage system project in a suburban area

Work on the construction of deep drainage includes the following:

1. According to the design plan of the site, it is necessary to draw up a diagram of the location of drainage pipes and determine the water discharge point, that is, the place from which collected water will merge into sewer pipes leading to the drainage well. The depth of the pipeline must be below the freezing level of the soil. For the North-Western region this value is about 60–80 cm.

   Preparation of trenches for the construction of deep drainage

2. Taking into account the plan, a trench is dug along the perimeter and area of ​​the site with a depth of up to 1 m. The width of the trench is at least 30 cm. All horizontal sections of the trenches are combined into unified system, which is supplied to the water discharge point. After this, trenches are dug maintaining a slope of 2–4 cm per 1 m of surface. To check the quality of the drainage, the trenches are spilled with a large volume of water. If necessary, the slope towards the drainage well increases.

   pit under drainage well you need to dig at the lowest point on the site

3. At the lowest point of the site, a place is created for the installation of a water intake or filter drainage well. For large areas located on loamy and clayey soil types, it is better to install storage type wells with a volume of up to 1000 liters. For small plots You can use both storage and filter wells. The type of tank is selected based on the type of soil.

   Placed on top of the gravel layer wide canvas geotextiles

4. Fine gravel is poured into the bottom of the trench. The thickness of the layer is 10 cm. Geofabric is laid on the gravel with an overlap on the walls of the trench. To fix the canvas to the walls, wooden or plastic pegs are used, which are driven into the ground. After this, a 10 cm layer of crushed stone with a fraction of 50–60 is poured onto the laid geotextile and carefully leveled in compliance with the slope. A drainage pipe from Ø 110 mm is laid on the crushed stone.
5. Modular inspection wells are installed at the drain turning points. The diameter and height of the well depend on the expected volume of wastewater. To connect the pipe to the mounting hole, use coupling, which is coated with a waterproof sealant before joining. Similar actions are carried out to connect the drainage pipe to the well pipe.

   An inspection drainage well is installed in places where the drainage pipe turns

6. Before backfilling, the drainage system is checked for functionality. To do this, it is drained through drains large volume water. If the water quickly drains and enters the well, then everything is done correctly and you can move on to the final stage. In other cases, you need to find and fix the problem.
7. A 20–30 cm layer of gravel of fraction 20–40 is poured over the drainage pipes and carefully leveled. After this, the drains with laid crushed stone are covered with geotextiles. A 10–15 cm layer of quarry sand is poured on top of the geofabric and thoroughly compacted. The remaining space in the trench can be filled with fertile soil or regular soil from the site.

Methods for drying an area without drainage

Excessive moisture in the soil and stagnation of water on the site are not always associated with high level groundwater. Sometimes this occurs due to abnormally low temperatures and heavy precipitation. The combination of these factors leads to the fact that moisture does not have time to evaporate, and puddles and mold form on the soil surface.

Sanding clay soil- one of the ways to drain an area without drainage

If, due to some circumstances, it is impossible to install a drainage system, then there are several effective ways to drain the land:

Of the above methods for drying an area, the most effective are adding a sufficient amount of fertile soil and arrangement of trenches along the perimeter. On average, 1 m 3 of soil will cost 550–600 rubles. For a plot of 6 acres, 10–12 m3 of soil is sufficient.

The easiest way to drain the soil on a site

Construction of shallow trenches filled with crushed stone is the most in a simple way drainage of a summer cottage. Despite its overall simplicity, this method is very effective and can cope with a large number water formed when snow melts.

Work on arrangement of trenches around the perimeter and area of ​​the site includes the following:

If desired, the second layer of crushed stone can be reduced, and the remaining space can be covered with soil from the site. This will hide the drainage under a layer of turf. It is not recommended to plant flowers and greenery on top of the drainage trench. This is fraught with their death due to the high humidity in this place.

How to clear a clogged drain pipe

Failure to comply with the technology for laying drainage pipes is the main reason for stagnation and poor drainage of water from distribution wells. In addition, very often stagnation of water is not associated with blockage at all. Insufficient slope does not ensure constant and uniform drainage of accumulated water towards the drainage pit.

To clear small blockages, use a steel cable or a hose with strong water pressure.

The easiest way to clean drain pipes is to use steel cable for cleaning sewers. At one end of the cable there is a spiral-shaped nozzle, at the other there is a handle with which you can rotate the cable, creating a mechanical load at the site of the blockage.

To clean pipes Ø110 mm or more, it is recommended to use a cable with steel brush appropriate size. During the cleaning process, it is necessary to lower the cable into the drainage pipe until its end reaches the blockage. Next, by rotating the cable clockwise, you need to try to break through the blockage or move it towards draining the water. Usually, small accumulations of silt and leaves can be pushed through without much difficulty.

If it was not possible to remove the blockage, then you will need to call specialists who, using a pneumatic installation and other equipment, will not only clear the blockage, but also carry out preventive cleaning of the entire surface of the drainage pipes.

Video: do-it-yourself site drainage

Oversaturation of the soil with moisture and stagnation of water on the site are a big problem, which affects not only the growth of fruit-bearing crops, but also reduces the service life of a residential building. But it is worth remembering that excess water can be dealt with using a drainage system. It's much worse if fresh water and it will pick up moisture, and constructing a well is impossible due to certain circumstances.

High groundwater is a serious obstacle not only to successful farming on the site, but also to safe living, because excess moisture floods buildings and causes their deformation. There is only one way to avoid such troubles - by organizing. And to do this, you need to understand the main elements of the system - drainage pipes. Today, corrugated perforated versions of these products are most often used, which we will talk about: how to choose, why reinforce with geofabric, how to install it yourself - more about this, not only in theory, but also with video.

Selection of corrugated pipes

Corrugated drainage pipes are distinguished by a wide variety of types, therefore, so that you can successfully select products for your system, we will understand by what criteria they are classified and what are their fundamental differences.

Based on the material used, there are two types of corrugated pipes:

1. Polyethylene - made of polyethylene low pressure, thanks to which, despite its affordable price, are characterized by strength and resistance to impurities of ground and rain water.
2. Polyvinyl chloride pipes are highly reliable and durable pipes, almost the only disadvantage of which is their high cost.

Pipe for drainage system

The most important characteristic of drainage pipes is the type of perforation. It can be either partial or complete, made around the circumference. The second option is preferable - such pipes are characterized by higher rigidity.

Advice. For efficient work systems, choose perforated pipes with a hole diameter in the walls of at least 5 mm.

The diameter of corrugated drainage pipes can be presented in four options: 63 mm, 110 mm, 160 m and 200 mm. The most popular lines are rightfully with a diameter of 110 mm - they guarantee the passage of 7 liters of liquid in 1 second and are relatively light in weight, so they are easy to install.

The next factor that should never be ignored is the strength of the pipes. This parameter is selected depending on the expected depth of laying drainage lines: for trenches up to 2 m deep, pipes of strength class SN 4-2 are suitable; for a depth of 2-3 m - SN6; for depths greater than 4 m – SN8.

Functions of geofabric

We will consider another criterion for the classification of drainage mains - the presence or absence of geotextile - separately, since it requires a more detailed study. So, why are pipes reinforced with geotextile and is it possible to do without it?

If the system is being installed on an area with crushed stone soil, you can safely use standard pipes without geofabric, since here the risk of clogging the drainage with silt, sand and other dirt is reduced. But on all other types of soil, especially sandy, loamy and clayey soils, it is simply impossible to do without a filter material, otherwise a rapid layer of dirt cannot be avoided on the internal walls of the highways, which will provoke a significant decrease in their performance.

The use of geofabric as a drainage filter is due to its wide range of advantages:

• rot resistance;
• elasticity – does not tear even under increased mechanical loads;
• strength - the material is not afraid of insects and rodents;

Geotextile prevents dirt from penetrating the drainage system

• resistance to chemical compositions, dissolved in water;
• long service life - up to 25 years.

Now is the time to consider how to properly lay corrugated perforated pipes with geotextile - we will divide the installation process into two stages.

Stage No. 1: Preparation and organization of the water intake

The arrangement of the drainage system begins with the preparation of the main installation materials - pipes and geofabric. To calculate the required footage of materials, first determine where the highways will pass and carry out working markings of the area.

Next, proceed to creating a water intake. must be located in the lowest zone of the site to ensure rapid movement of liquid to the receiver. As a well, you can use any container made of a material that does not react with water and its impurities: concrete, plastic, galvanized steel. Select the dimensions of the container depending on the area of ​​the area to be drained and its level of moisture.

Important! The well must be sealed and have a lid.

The well-water intake is buried in the ground - to do this, you need to dig a suitable hole in the intended place and secure it with a sand-crushed stone cushion. If the container is very large, for its stability you can additionally fill in a shallow cement foundation.

Drainage installation

To prevent the well from overflowing and flooding the area, you need to consider a water disposal system. There are several options: the liquid can be drained into storm sewer or to an open drain, or can be used for various economic and technical needs.

Stage 2: Digging trenches and laying pipes

At this stage, all work on organizing the drainage system must be carried out according to a clear algorithm:

• Dig trenches along the marked area, taking into account the level of soil freezing. As a rule, even in the highest zone of the site, a depth of 40-60 cm is sufficient. Closer to the well, all trenches need to be connected into one, which will lead to the receiving tank.

Important! The trenches should have a bottom slope of 5-10 degrees towards the water intake.

• Place a sand cushion of no more than 10 cm at the bottom of the trenches and compact it. If necessary, adjust the angle of the trench.
• Lay geofabric on the sand. Bring its edges onto the walls of the trench so that the material subsequently covers all layers of drainage.
• Place a layer of crushed stone on the geofabric. Best fit granite crushed stone middle fraction - it is resistant to erosion.
• Begin laying prepared drainage corrugated pipes on the crushed stone. Connect individual sections of highways using adapters and tees. Connect the side elements to the central pipe, which goes to the water inlet. If the area to be drained is very large, install inspection wells every 50 m along the main line - they will facilitate the maintenance of the drainage system. Choose plastic wells with lattice covers - they are the easiest to install and subsequently use.
• After laying the pipes is complete, fill them with another layer of crushed stone and cover them with the remaining edges of the geofabric.
• Fill the trenches with a mixture of sand and soil.

Without a doubt, corrugated perforated pipes in combination with geofabric are one of the most effective variations of arranging a drainage system in an area with high groundwater. Such pipes are reliable, durable and, as you can see, relatively easy to install, so you can easily handle the installation of the system yourself if you first study all the above-mentioned intricacies of the process.

How to choose a drainage pipe: video

Drainage pipes: photo