How to lay drainage pipes in the area. Drain pipe. Drainage system options

Also, special attention is paid to compliance with all technical standards. The selection of pipes, the depth and angle of their laying are important points in the installation work.

Maintenance

Even a properly installed and well-functioning drainage system requires regular maintenance. Inspections of drainage and manholes are carried out once or twice a year. The owners should be alerted by the low water level, which may indicate:

The arrangement of drainage solves several problems at once. The main ones are the drainage of high groundwater and perched water from the deep foundation of the house, reducing the load on the waterproofing of basement walls and underground technical floors, and draining the site on moist soils. The standard scheme of the drainage system consists of water receivers and pipes laid in the ground. After reading the article, you will learn how the drainage pipe works and how the device of the drainage pipe allows you to simultaneously collect water and divert it into special wells or outside the site.

Drainage pipes are easily recognizable by their corrugated surface and applied perforations.

Types of drainage pipes

Drainage pipes differ in materials, device and even shape.

By type of material, there is the following classification:

• ceramic;
• asbestos-cement;
• polymeric.

All of these materials have good frost resistance, high resistance to moisture and are not subject to decay. But they differ from each other in other respects.

Ceramic

As for external sewage, this is a traditional material that was ubiquitous before the “polymer era”. There is even a Soviet GOST, which regulates the shape of ceramic drainage pipes. Inside, they have the shape of a hollow cylinder, and outside they are not only cylindrical, but also in the form of a six- and octahedron.

For reference! Unlike sewers, drainage pipes are made without sockets - they are connected using couplings that do not create conditions for the accumulation of silt at the joints. The same connection technology was “borrowed” later by products from other materials.

Another difference from ceramic sewer pipes is the absence of a glazed layer on the outer surface.

Ceramic drainage pipes - without perforation, glazed layer and sockets Source o-trubah.com

Usually the walls of the drainage pipe have holes in the form of grooves or slots, but sometimes they are absent. Non-perforated pipes are not used to collect water, but only to drain it from the site.

Advantages: absolute environmental friendliness and rather high service life (up to 30 years).

Disadvantages: high cost, fragility, difficulty in transportation, it is difficult to fit the size and lay the drainage pipe during the installation of the system.

Asbestos-cement

For drainage, ordinary asbestos-cement non-pressure pipes and couplings marked BNT and BNM are used. Unlike ceramic ones, they have a universal specialization - the organization of external sewerage and drainage pipelines, the protection of underground telephone cables.

In order to use them not only for drainage, but also for collecting groundwater, they need to be improved - cutting through slots or drilling holes.

Advantages: versatility, low cost, ease of fitting to size.

Disadvantages: the need for refinement, fragility, difficulty in laying drainage and poor environmental properties.

Drainage asbestos-cement pipe with perforation Source vse-o-kanalizacii.ru

For reference! The last quality needs some explanation. Since January 1, 2005, the European Union has banned the use of asbestos and products from it - there are sad statistics from the Ministry of Health about the carcinogenic effect of asbestos dust on the body. While it is believed that the cement binds the asbestos microfibers, fitting and punching holes is bound to produce this dust. Therefore, all work with this material is prescribed to be carried out exclusively when using respiratory protection and mucous membranes.

Polymer

They are:

• rigid and flexible;
• smooth and corrugated;
• single-layer and double-layer;
• with a protective winding made of geotextile and with an additional filter layer.

According to the degree of "ring" rigidity, several classes are distinguished, which are indicated by the marking SN2-SN24, and the larger the digital index, the more the pipe is able to withstand the pressure of bulk gravel, sand and soil.

Almost the entire range of this category has perforations with different patterns on the surface. There are also those that have one row of holes, which, when laid, are placed on top to collect sedimentary water. But more often, the holes “encircle” the entire surface so that the installation of the drainage pipe is not difficult and allows water to seep in from all sides.

Polymer perforated drainage pipe Source otdelkagres.ru

In addition to the "standard" cylindrical shape, there are flat corrugated drainage pipes. They do not have such a high throughput, but, thanks to an additional stiffener, they are more compressive strength in a horizontal position. And in a vertical position - they take up less space and do not require large-scale earthworks.

In addition to perforated pipes, there are products made of porous polymer. Open communicating cells and wall porosity (at the level of 80-90% of the volume) replace the perforation and serve as an excellent filter against the penetration of silt inside. But even in this case, they resort to additional protection in the form of a geotextile winding, which either wraps the pipe at the production stage or wraps it during the arrangement of the drainage system.

The novelties include drainage pipes, which have an additional filter layer made of granulated polystyrene foam. It is located between the wall and the geotextile winding. And when laying in a trench, they do not require backfilling of a layer of crushed stone.

All these subtleties of the device of the drainage pipe determine the methods of its laying.

Varieties of drainage pipes depending on the material and type of soil in which they will be laid Source papamaster.su

There are no general disadvantages of polymer pipes. A wide price range and a large assortment of materials, sizes and devices allow you to choose the best option for each case.

General advantages: long service life, high resistance to mechanical stress and damage, ease of fitting and installation.

Laying technology

In order for the system to work clearly, you need to know how to properly lay the drainage pipe, depending on the type. For each drainage pipe, the laying technology will vary slightly depending on the design. But the initial stage is the same for everyone:

• They develop a drainage scheme: the location of pipes, places for wells and revisions.
• Depending on the type of soil, the geological characteristics of the site, the location of groundwater and the required throughput, the size and type of the drainage pipe are selected.
• On the basis of the planned route for laying drainage pipes on the site, the site is planned and marked for earthworks.

The ideal option is when the drainage scheme is developed in conjunction with the project of the house. Source mainstro.ru

• They dig trenches. On dense soils with straight walls, on loose soils - with sloped walls or strengthen them for the duration of work. The bottom is made 30 cm wider on both sides of the pipe.
• The bottom surface is leveled, the soil is compacted, a slope towards the drainage well is formed within 0.5-3.0% (minimum 0.5 cm and maximum 3 cm per meter of length).
• A layer of coarse-grained sand about 15 cm thick is poured and rammed, observing the slope laid down during the formation of the bottom of the ditch.

Further technology for laying a drainage pipe depends on its design.

Laying a drainage pipe with geotextile, if it does not have a factory winding:

• Geotextiles are laid on top of the sand. The width of the canvas should be sufficient so that the edges can then be brought together.
• Pour a layer of crushed stone (15 cm).
• A perforated pipe is laid and covered with a layer of rubble on top.
• The edges of the geotextile web are wrapped and fastened together. As a result, the pipe should have a uniform backfill with crushed stone of about 15 cm on all sides, textiles should pass along the “sand-crushed stone” border, and there should be free space up to the walls of the trench.

The principle of operation of drainage - water seeps through geotextiles, crushed stone and perforation, then flows by gravity through a pipe to a well Source pogreb-podval.ru

• Pour a layer of sand on the sides and top (about 15 cm).
• The excavated or imported fertile soil is laid back.

Note! You can buy geotextiles separately, choose perforated pipes without winding and wrap them before work.

Video description

In the video below, see how the installation process of the drainage system takes place:

For deep drainage, two-layer corrugated pipes made of polymeric materials with an additional filter shell are most in demand in civil engineering. And the same profile, but without a geotextile winding, is used to equip closed-type storm sewers.

The inner walls have a smooth surface, which ensures high self-cleaning and does not create prerequisites for siltation of the horizontal part of the drainage system.

The outer walls are in the form of corrugations with an annular profile, which provides the required rigidity. The corrugated surface also allows the use of O-rings when connecting pipes with couplings and tees.

For laying in areas with normal operation (blind area, lawns, footpaths), ring stiffness class SN4, SN8 is sufficient.

For drainage under driveways or parking areas, pipes with ring stiffness class SN16-SN24 are selected.

Video description

Visually about the choice of drainage pipes, see the following video:

Conclusion

The durability and strength of the foundation, the lack of water in the basement during the rainy season and snowmelt, the normal moisture content of the site and the “health” of green spaces depend on a properly designed and installed system of deep drainage and storm sewerage. Therefore, water disposal and drainage should be handled by specialists.

Building a house is a responsible and very costly undertaking. Naturally, any owner wants the erected building to last as long as possible. And for this it is necessary to protect the foundation of the house from the destructive action of groundwater, that is, to build drainage. Consider how do-it-yourself drainage pipes are laid, what materials are used for this, and what nuances must be taken into account when doing this work.

The construction of drainage seems to many an optional event. In fact, protection from groundwater is very important. Properly built drainage helps keep basement damp and prevent the destruction of the materials from which the foundation of the house is built.

In addition, a drainage device may be necessary in a personal plot or in a country house, if high-lying waters interfere with the growth of trees and shrubs. Consider the main points of the construction of drainage systems.

Before describing the construction technology, it is worth understanding what drainage is and in what cases its construction is necessary. So, drainage is a pipe system that is used to divert soil water from the foundation of a building, as well as to drain the site. When is drainage necessary?

• If a building is being built that will have a basement.
• If the site is initially swampy, or it has heavy and poorly water-permeable soils.
• If it is planned to make changes to the natural relief of the site - to level the sites, build artificial hills, etc.

Where to begin?

First of all, it is necessary to find out how deep the soil water is. This can be done by studying the water level in nearby wells. The well, which is dug to a depth of 5-15 meters, is filled just to the level of groundwater. In addition, from the marks on the concrete walls of the well, one can understand how high the water rises during the flood period.

Advice! The ideal solution for determining the level of soil water occurrence is a geodetic examination by a specialist.

Next, you need to decide on the type of drainage. The easiest way, of course, is to build an open drainage, that is, just dig trenches with a slope. However, such a solution will not decorate the site, so most owners choose a more time-consuming construction option.

We select materials for construction

Today, there are more convenient and affordable materials - corrugated pipes made of polymeric materials, which already have ready-made perforations.

The main advantages of using plastic pipes

• Corrugated pipes are characterized by increased strength, they can be laid to a considerable depth - up to 10 meters.
• The service life of polymer pipes is at least 50 years.
• Plastic pipe connections are easy to make yourself using couplings
• Pipes are easy to transport, unload and install, as they are quite light.
• To cut plastic pipes, you do not need to use a special tool.

Advice! To prevent clogging of pipes with soil particles, additional filters are used - geotextile or coconut fiber material.

Installation of drainage systems

Consider how the installation of drainage is carried out, and what are the nuances of laying pipes.

Planning

At the first stage, a scheme for laying drainage pipes should be drawn up. In carrying out this work, a preliminary geodetic examination of the site will greatly help, as a result of which the types of soil and the level of groundwater location will be clarified. Based on the results of the examination, the diameters of the pipes are selected, as well as the depth of their laying.

Advice! Drawing up a drainage scheme and making calculations, it is desirable to entrust specialists.

Pipe laying

• A layer of sand 15 cm high is poured into the trenches dug to the required depth.
• A geotextile is laid over the sand so that the edges of the canvas cover the sides of the ditch.
• A layer of fine gravel is poured onto the geotextile.
• On top of the rubble, pipes are laid with perforation down.
• When laying pipes, it is necessary to maintain a slope directed towards the collection well. Slope size - not less than 3 degrees
• In order to be able to control the operation of the system and, if necessary, flush it, you need to plan the installation of manholes. The minimum distance between wells is 50 meters. In addition, wells should be placed at the places where the pipeline turns or when its angle of inclination changes.
• The choice of filter for the pipe is carried out depending on the type of soil. If these are light sandy loams or loams, then it is worth using pipes wrapped with geotextiles. In heavy soils, it is more profitable to use pipes wrapped in coconut fiber cloth.
• Crushed stone is poured over the laid pipes, as a rule, the thickness of the top backfill is 40 cm.
• From above, the crushed stone layer is covered with geotextile, which was previously fixed on the sides of the trench.
• From above, the trenches are covered with soil and covered with pre-cut turf.

Mistakes that should not be made

• Incorrect selection of pipes. For example, in loamy soils, pipes without a filter cannot be used.
• Incorrect pipe slope.
• Wrong choice of location for the installation of a prefabricated well or untimely removal of water from it.

So, the drainage system is a necessary element to protect the house and site from excess soil moisture. When installing drainage, it is extremely important to correctly develop its scheme and perform installation in strict accordance with the technology. Errors made during installation will lead to the fact that the water from the foundation will not be fully discharged, that is, the efficiency of the system will be reduced.

And now a shorter, but capacious guide to the competent laying of drainage pipes:

Drainage pipes are laid in trenches with a depth of 0.7-1.6 m, expanding upwards at an angle of 10-20 °; the width of their bottom is 30-40 cm. If it is known that water will flow to the drainage pipe only from above and from the sides, the pipe wrapped with geotextile can be placed immediately at the bottom of the trench. Although, to level the surface and create the desired slope, a sand cushion is more often made. If the drainage pipe collects water from all sides, a return filter must be poured under it, consisting of a layer of sand (5-10 cm) and a layer of crushed stone (5 cm). Sometimes a return filter is constructed only from sand. Its task is to trap fine dusty and clay particles that can clog the drainage pipe. Less water flows from the bottom than from the side and top, so the return filter should not be too thick. A drainage pipe is laid on it (or immediately on the bottom, as in the first case), surrounded by a volumetric filter - some kind of protective filtering material: geofabric of a certain density or coconut fiber.

Filters for drainage pipes are selected depending on the type of soil. In "difficult" conditions, when pipes are laid in clay soils, a coconut fiber filter works best. Several foreign companies, such as Wavin, Uponor, supply pipes already wrapped with coconut filter material. Their cost is about two to three times higher than the cost of similar drainage pipes without filters. For light loams and sandy loams (lighter soils, with a lower content of clay particles), bulk geotextiles are used. This is a fairly thick (2-4 mm) non-woven or needle-punched material weighing 250-450 g/m2. Its filtering capacity is lower than that of coconut fibre. On sandy soils, thin filters, fiberglass and other similar materials weighing 150-250 g/m2 can be used.

The drainage pipe wrapped in a filter is covered with rubble to about 1/3-1/4 of the trench depth. Now, crushed stone of the middle fraction (about 20-40 mm) is taken for backfilling, while theoretically it is more competent to do this: the first layer is crushed stone of a large fraction (40-70 mm), the second layer is of a medium fraction, the third is fine (less than 20 mm). Usually, the thickness of the top backfill is about 40 cm. The minimum layer capable of ensuring the optimal mode of water penetration into the drainage pipe is 20 cm. A layer of geotextile is laid over the crushed stone to prevent mixing of the crushed stone and the bulk materials located above - sand (layer 5-10 cm thick) and fertile soil (15-20 cm). To make the system work more reliably, the volumetric gravel filter is sometimes also placed in a protective casing made of geotextile, the cost of which is about 30 rubles. for 1 m2. Such expenses are often justified when compared with the costs of maintaining the system. Sometimes the pipe itself in this case is not wrapped in geofabric, however, such a system will clog faster and the likelihood of mud plugs in it is higher.

The depth of the trenches and, accordingly, the location of the drainage pipes depends on the type of soil, the level of groundwater and what will grow in the drained area. For mineral soils, the optimal trench depth is from 60-80 to 120-150 cm. Please note that a groundwater level of 60-80 cm is quite acceptable for lawns and flower beds, about 90 cm for forest trees, 120-150 cm for fruit trees. trees. When drained, groundwater will be set at a level of approximately 0.7-0.9 of the depth of the drainage pipes. By the way, according to experts, for the free development of an apple tree, this depth should be 2-2.5 m, cherries and plums - 1.5-2 m, berry bushes (currants, gooseberries, raspberries) - 1-1.5 m. peat soils, all trenches should be a little deeper - 100-160 cm, since peat continuously "sits down" throughout its "life". This is due to three reasons: the surface settles above the drainage pipe; a layer settles under the drainage pipe; peat decomposes into substances that become water-soluble and are washed out.

The depth of the drainage pipes is determined taking into account another factor - the location of the aquiclude. This is the name of the layer of impermeable rocks that limit the aquifer. If the aquiclude is located close to the surface of the earth (for example, at a depth of 70 cm), then the pipe is laid to a depth not exceeding this distance. Water will come to it only from the side and from above. To the drainage pipe, which lies inside the aquifer, water flows from all sides - of course, if there are perforations around the entire circumference of the pipe. An example of water-resistant horizons is heavy loamy and clayey soils with a low filtration coefficient: water passes through them very poorly or does not pass at all. An example of aquifers is sandy and sandy loam.

The minimum slope of drainage pipes required for normal water flow is 0.003, that is, 3 mm per 1 m of length. In practice, it is increased to 0.005. If the natural slope of the soil is significant, then it can reach 0.01-0.02. However, it is not recommended to make the slope large - the water should leave smoothly and evenly. Drainage should always be carried out taking into account the relief, so as not to argue with nature.

The spacing of the drainage pipes depends on the type of soil. On heavy soils, clay and loamy, pipes are located more often: at a distance of 4-5 to 12-15 m from each other. On light soils, sandy and sandy - less often, after 20-30 m. On average, it is believed that a drainage pipe 1 m long drains an area of ​​10-20 m2. To drain sports and playgrounds, the gap between the pipes is halved. Do not plant trees closer than 2 m to the right and left of the drainage pipe. Bushes (for example, lilacs) are recommended to be planted, maintaining a distance of 1 m.

The problem of flooding and increased waterlogging of the soil is familiar to the owners of sites located in the central region of Russia. Dampness and stagnant water after snow melt does not allow for proper preparation of the summer cottage for the summer season, and waterlogging of the soil with constant precipitation is detrimental to many plants. There are several ways to solve these problems, but the most effective is the arrangement of drainage.

When is a drainage system needed?

Drainage is a technology for collecting and diverting ground, melt and storm water from a site, technical and residential buildings. The drainage system prevents washing out, heaving and waterlogging of the soil, which occurs due to oversaturation with moisture.

The arrangement of the drainage system is not necessary in every area. In order to determine how badly your site needs drainage, you will need to conduct a visual inspection. Pay attention to whether the area is flooded after the snow melts, how quickly water is absorbed after watering the plants, whether there are puddles after heavy rain and heavy rain. If you have observed these signs more than once, then drainage is required.

Drainage system helps to remove stagnant water from the site

If there is little visual confirmation, then a simple experiment can be carried out - using a hand drill or a conventional shovel, you should dig a hole 70–100 cm deep. It is better to do this in several places on the site. If after 24–36 hours water accumulates at the bottom of the pit and does not leave, then this is direct evidence of oversaturation of the soil with moisture.

Soil drainage is carried out under the following conditions:

• high occurrence of groundwater;
• the site is located in an area with clay soil;
• the site is located in a lowland or vice versa - on a slope;
• The location of the site receives a large amount of precipitation.

The presence of drainage contributes to the preservation of finishing and facing materials used for laying garden paths, finishing the basement and facade of the building.

Types of dehumidification systems

There are a wide variety of land drainage systems. At the same time, in various sources, their classification can be very different from each other. In the case of drainage systems for suburban and summer cottages, it is recommended to use the simplest and most proven solutions.

Surface type drainage

Surface drainage is the simplest and most effective system. The main task is to drain the soil by draining water formed as a result of heavy rainfall and uneven snowmelt.

Grids protect the open drainage system from large debris

The surface drainage system is constructed over the area of ​​the site, around the house and buildings adjacent to it, near garage structures, warehouses and the courtyard. Surface drainage is divided into two subspecies:

1. Point - in some sources it is designated as local drainage. It is used to collect and divert water from a certain place on the site. The main area of ​​application is drainage of areas under drains, near entrance doors and gates, in the area of ​​containers and irrigation taps. Often used as an emergency system if another type of drainage is overloaded.
2. Linear - used to drain the entire area. It is a system consisting of receiving trays and channels arranged at a certain angle, providing a constant flow of water. The drainage system is equipped with filter grates and sand traps. Trays and drains are made of PVC, polypropylene, HDPE or polymer concrete.

When installing a surface drainage system, it is recommended to combine point and linear drainage. This will ensure the most efficient operation of the system. If necessary, point and line drainage can be combined with the system described below.

deep drainage

Deep drainage is carried out in the form of a pipeline laid in places where it is necessary to constantly drain the soil or lower the groundwater level. Drains are laid with observance of a slope in the direction of the flow of water, which enters the collector, well or reservoir located outside the site.

The process of constructing deep drainage in a suburban area

To lower the groundwater level, pipes are laid along the perimeter of the site to a depth of 80–150 cm. In the case when it is necessary to divert water from the foundation of the structure, the pipes must be laid below its depth. And also drainage pipes can be laid over the entire area of ​​​​the site with a certain step. The distance between drains depends on the depth of their laying and the mechanical composition of the soil.

For example, when constructing a drainage system, when drains are laid to a depth of 0.9–1 m, the recommended distance between them is at least 9–11 m. On loamy soil, under the same conditions, the step between drains decreases to 7–9 m, and on clayey up to 4–5.5 m. More detailed data for different depths of laying can be seen in the table below. The information is taken from the book "Draining land for gardens" by A.M.Dumbljauskas.

When laying the pipe, the features of the terrain are observed. According to the technology, drains are laid from the highest to the lowest point on the site. If the site is relatively flat, then to give a slope, a slope is formed along the bottom of the trench. The minimum slope level is 2 cm per 1 linear meter of the drainage pipe when constructing drainage in clay and loamy soil. For sandy soil, a slope of 3 cm per 1 meter is observed.

When arranging drainage of a long length, a minimum slope must be observed along the entire length of the drainage route. For example, for a drainage system with a length of 15 m, the minimum level difference between the start and end points of the route will be at least 30 cm.

If possible, it is recommended to exceed the declared slope standards. This will provide faster drainage, reduce the risk of silting and clogging of the drain. In addition, digging a trench with a large slope is much easier than measuring out 1–2 cm.

Drainage at their summer cottage - the easiest way with instructions

In order to independently carry out drainage of a land plot through a drainage system, you will need to familiarize yourself with the technology of work, calculate and purchase the necessary materials, prepare a tool and a place to perform work.

Surface drainage of a summer cottage

Open surface drainage is a universal solution for draining suburban areas of a small area. For example, for typical plots of 6 acres. You can use the diagram below as a basis. It depicts a drainage route in the shape of a Christmas tree. The distance between the drains, as discussed above, is selected based on the type of soil (see table).

An example of the location of the drainage system at their summer cottage

To carry out the work, you will need a shovel and a bayonet shovel, a tape measure, a bubble level, a hammer and a sharp construction knife. As materials, it will be necessary to prepare gravel of a fraction of 20–40, geotextiles, an edged bar or a board 2–3 m long.

For the construction of surface drainage in a summer cottage, you will need to do the following:

Sometimes, the base of the trench is concreted along the entire length of the drainage route. This allows you not to worry that over time the earthen walls will begin to crumble, the water flow will deteriorate, etc. But this approach is more time consuming and requires the ability to work with concrete mix.

Drainage of the site using deep drainage

Deep drainage is a standard solution for draining summer cottages and suburban areas. A deep drainage system can be installed even when there is a protective pavement around the building, concrete or slab paths. If necessary, their partial dismantling can be performed, but in general the structure will not suffer.

An example of a project for a drainage system in a suburban area

Deep drainage works include the following:

1. According to the design plan of the site, it is necessary to draw up a diagram of the location of the drainage pipes and determine the point of water discharge, that is, the place from where the collected water will drain into the sewer pipes leading to the drainage well. The depth of the pipeline should be below the freezing level of the soil. For the Northwestern region, this value is about 60–80 cm.

   Preparation of trenches for the construction of deep drainage

2. Taking into account the plan, a trench is excavated along the perimeter and area of ​​​​a site up to 1 m deep. The width of the trench is at least 30 cm. All horizontal sections of the trenches are combined into a single system, which is brought to the point of water discharge. After that, the trenches are dug with a slope of 2–4 cm per 1 m of surface. To check the quality of the runoff, the trenches are shed with a large volume of water. If necessary, the slope towards the drainage well increases.

   A pit for a drainage well must be dug at the lowest point on the site

3. At the lowest point of the site, a place is arranged for the installation of a water intake or filtering drainage well. For large areas located on loamy and clay soil types, it is better to install storage types of wells with a volume of up to 1000 liters. For small areas, both storage and filter wells can be used. The type of tank is selected based on the type of soil.

   A wide sheet of geotextile is laid on top of the gravel layer.

4. Fine-grained gravel is poured into the bottom of the trench. The thickness of the layer is 10 cm. Geofabric is laid on the gravel with an overlap on the walls of the trench. To fix the canvas to the walls, wooden or plastic pegs are used, which are driven into the ground. After that, a 10 cm layer of crushed stone with a fraction of 50–60 is poured onto the laid geotextile and carefully leveled in compliance with the slope. A drainage pipe from Ø 110 mm is laid on the crushed stone.
5. In places where the drain turns, modular manholes are installed. The diameter and height of the well depend on the estimated volume of wastewater. To connect the pipe to the mounting hole, a coupling is used, which is coated with a waterproof sealant before joining. Similar actions are carried out to connect the drainage pipe to the well pipe.

   An inspection drainage well is installed in places where the drainage pipe turns

6. Before backfilling, the drainage system is checked for operability. To do this, a large amount of water is drained through the drains. If the water quickly drains and enters the well, then everything is done correctly and you can proceed to the final stage. In other cases, you need to find and fix the problem.
7. A 20–30 cm layer of gravel with a fraction of 20–40 is poured over the drainage pipes and carefully leveled. After that, drains with laid rubble are covered with geotextiles. A 10-15 cm layer of quarry sand is poured over the geotextile and carefully compacted. The remaining space in the trench can be covered with fertile soil or ordinary soil from the site.

Ways to drain a site without drainage

Excessive moisture in the soil and stagnant water in the area are not always associated with a high level of groundwater. Sometimes this is due to abnormally low temperatures and heavy rainfall. The combination of these factors leads to the fact that moisture does not have time to evaporate, puddles and mold form on the soil surface.

Sanding clay soil is one way to drain a site without drainage.

If, due to some circumstances, the installation of a drainage system is impossible, then there are several effective ways to drain the land:

Of the above methods of draining the site, the most effective are the addition of a sufficient amount of fertile soil and the arrangement of trenches around the perimeter. On average, 1 m 3 of soil will cost 550–600 rubles. For a plot of 6 acres, 10–12 m 3 of soil is enough.

The easiest way to drain the soil on the site

The arrangement of shallow trenches filled with rubble is the easiest way to drain a summer cottage. Despite the general simplicity, this method is very effective and is able to cope with a large amount of water formed during the melting of snow.

Work on the arrangement of trenches around the perimeter and area of ​​​​the site includes the following:

If desired, the second layer of crushed stone can be reduced, and the remaining space can be sprinkled with soil from the site. This will hide the drainage under the turf layer. It is not recommended to plant flowers and greenery over the drainage trench. This is fraught with their death due to the high humidity in this place.

How to clear a blockage in a drain pipe

Failure to comply with the technology of laying drainage pipes is the main cause of stagnation and poor drainage of water from distribution wells. In addition, very often stagnant water is not associated with blockage at all. Insufficient slope does not provide a constant and uniform discharge of accumulated water towards the drainage pit.

To clear small blockages, use a steel cable or a hose with strong water pressure.

The easiest way to clean drain pipes is to use a steel cable to clean the drains. At one end of the cable there is a spiral nozzle, at the other there is a handle with which you can rotate the cable, creating a mechanical load at the site of blockage.

For cleaning pipes Ø110 mm and more, it is recommended to use a cable with a steel brush of the appropriate size. During the cleaning process, it is necessary to lower the cable into the drain pipe until its end reaches the blockage. Further, by rotating the cable clockwise, you need to try to break through the blockage or move it towards the water drain. Usually, small accumulations of silt and foliage are pushed through without much difficulty.

If it was not possible to eliminate the blockage, then it will be necessary to call specialists who, using a pneumatic installation and other equipment, will not only clear the blockage, but also carry out preventive cleaning of the entire surface of the drainage pipes.

Video: do-it-yourself site drainage

Oversaturation of the soil with moisture and stagnant water on the site are a big problem that affects not only the growth of fruit-bearing crops, but also reduces the life of a residential building. But it is worth remembering that an excess of water can be dealt with with the help of a drainage system. It is much worse if there is enough fresh water and moisture, and the arrangement of the well is impossible due to some circumstances.

High groundwater is a serious obstacle not only for successful farming on the site, but also for safe living, because excess moisture heats buildings and provokes their deformation. There is only one way to avoid such troubles - by organizing. And for this you should deal with the main elements of the system - drainage pipes. Today, corrugated perforated versions of these products are most often used, which we will talk about: how to choose, why reinforce with geofabric, how to do the laying with your own hands - further about this, not only in theory, but also with video.

Choice of corrugated pipes

Corrugated drainage pipes are distinguished by a wide variety of species, therefore, so that you can successfully select products for your system, we will figure out what criteria they are classified by and what are their fundamental differences.

According to the material of manufacture, two types of corrugated pipes are distinguished:

1. Polyethylene - are made of low-pressure polyethylene, due to which, despite their affordable price, they are characterized by strength and resistance to impurities of ground and rain water.
2. PVC - highly reliable and durable pipes, almost the only drawback of which is the high cost.

Pipe for drainage system

The most important characteristic of drainage pipes is the type of perforation. It can be either partial or complete, made around the circumference. The second option is preferable - such pipes are characterized by higher rigidity.

Advice. For efficient operation of the system, choose perforated pipes with a hole diameter in the walls of at least 5 mm.

The diameter of drainage corrugated pipes can be presented in four versions: 63 mm, 110 mm, 160 m and 200 mm. The most demanded by right are lines with a diameter of 110 mm - they guarantee the passage of 7 liters of liquid in 1 second and have a relatively small weight, so they are easy to install.

The next factor that should never be ignored is the strength of the pipes. This parameter is selected depending on the expected depth of laying drainage lines: for trenches up to 2 m deep, pipes of strength class SN 4-2 are suitable; for a depth of 2-3 m - SN6; for depths over 4 m - SN8.

Geotextile Functions

Another criterion for the classification of drainage mains - the presence or absence of a geotextile - will be considered separately, since it requires a more detailed study. So, why are pipes reinforced with geofabric and is it possible to do without it?

If the system is set up on a site with gravel soil, you can safely use standard pipes without geotextile, as the risk of clogging the drainage with silt, sand and other dirt is reduced here. But on all other types of soil, especially on sandy, loamy and clayey, it is simply impossible to do without a filtering material, otherwise a rapid layering of dirt cannot be avoided on the inner walls of the highways, which will provoke a significant decrease in their performance.

The use of geotextile as a drainage filter is due to a whole range of its advantages:

• decay resistance;
• elasticity - does not tear even under increased mechanical stress;
• strength - the material is not afraid of insects and rodents;

Geofabric prevents dirt from entering the drainage system

• resistance to chemical compounds dissolved in water;
• long service life - up to 25 years.

Now is the time to consider how to properly lay corrugated perforated pipes with geotextile - we will divide the installation process into two stages.

Stage number 1: Preparation and organization of the water intake

The arrangement of the drainage system begins with the preparation of the main installation materials - pipes and geotextile. To calculate the required footage of materials, first determine where the highways will run and perform a working layout of the site.

Next, move on to creating a water intake. must be located in the lowest zone of the site to ensure the rapid movement of fluid to the receiver. As a well, you can use any container made of a material that does not react with water and its impurities: concrete, plastic, galvanized steel. Choose the dimensions of the container depending on the area of ​​​​the area to be dried and the level of its moisture content.

Important! The well must be sealed and have a lid.

The water intake well is buried in the ground - for this, a suitable hole must be dug in the intended place and fixed with a sand and gravel cushion. If the container is very large, for its stability, you can additionally pour a shallow cement foundation.

Drainage installation

To prevent the well from overflowing and flooding the site, you need to consider a water disposal system. There are several options here: the liquid can be diverted to a storm sewer or to an open drain, or it can be used for various household and technical needs.

Stage 2: Digging trenches and laying pipes

At this stage, all work on the organization of the drainage system must be carried out according to a clear algorithm:

• Dig trenches along the marked area, taking into account the level of soil freezing. As a rule, even in the highest zone of the site, a depth of 40-60 cm is sufficient. Closer to the well, all trenches must be connected into one, which will lead to the receiving tank.

Important! The trenches should have a bottom slope of 5-10 degrees towards the water intake.

• At the bottom of the trenches, pour a sand cushion no more than 10 cm and compact it. Adjust the slope of the trench if necessary.
• Lay the geotextile on the sand. Lead its edges onto the walls of the trench, so that later the material covers all the layers of drainage.
• Place a layer of crushed stone on the geofabric. Granite crushed stone of the middle fraction is best suited - it is resistant to erosion.
• Start laying the prepared drainage corrugated pipes on the rubble. Connect separate sections of highways using adapters and tees. Connect the side elements to the central pipe, which goes to the water inlet. If the area to be drained is very large, install inspection wells every 50 m along the main line - they will facilitate the maintenance of the drainage system. Choose plastic wells with lattice covers - they are the easiest to install and use.
• After the pipes are laid, backfill them with another layer of crushed stone and cover them with the remaining edges of the geotextile.
• Fill the trenches with a mixture of sand and soil.

Without a doubt, corrugated perforated pipes in combination with geotextile are one of the most effective options for arranging a drainage system in a site with high groundwater. Such pipes are reliable, durable and, as you can see, relatively easy to install, so you can do it yourself with the installation of the system, if you first study all the above details of the process.

How to choose a drainage pipe: video

Drainage pipes: photo