Grafting of apple trees cannot be called necessary procedure. But it allows you to get two at once positive effects: grow several varieties of apples on one tree and save space on garden plot. There is different ways vaccination. Any of them is easy to master, but for this you need to know the rules and the optimal time for performing these works.
Grafting is a proven breeding method that allows you to change appearance and the condition of the tree. Before proceeding with the study of the technique, it is important to understand how it is beneficial:
Terms you need to know
A novice gardener may not understand what experienced colleagues are talking about, as they do not know the terminology of vaccination. This is easy to fix by memorizing the meaning of a few words.
How to choose the time for vaccination
Grafting of apple trees can be performed year-round. But each species and variety has its own growing season, so recommendations have been developed for each season.
Winter
Winter vaccination is carried out at a positive air temperature: in a heated room. Due to the specifics, it is often called "desktop". Winter vaccination is relevant for young plants that plan to plant in the spring. There are rules for doing this:
Winter grafting of an apple tree is a troublesome task. Therefore, experienced gardeners prefer to perform this procedure at other times of the year.
Autumn
The period of preparation for winter, accompanied by a slowdown in sap flow, is not the best time for grafting apple trees. It is at this time, rather forced than necessary. It is performed in situations where there is a graft of a rare variety and there is no way to save it until the onset of spring.
Rules for the autumn vaccination of apple trees
- Performed in warm calm weather.
- From the beginning of September best way- budding.
- Until mid-autumn, it is permissible to graft apple trees in the “split”, “for bark” methods.
- During the performance of work, the air temperature should not be lower than -15°C.
The highest probability of survival of scions in young rootstocks.
Summer
Summer vaccination well tolerated by plants. But it is desirable to carry it out, starting from the second period of sap flow - from the first decade of August. In regions with a warm climate, this is the optimal time for budding with a “sleeping” eye. It is also possible to perform other methods of vaccinations.
Spring
Spring is the best time for grafting not only apple trees, but also many other trees and shrubs. At the beginning of the season, the movement of juices begins in plants, immunity increases, periods of healing and recovery pass without complications. This applies not only to rootstock plants, but also to those that will act as donors.
Many gardeners in their work prefer to focus on moon calendar. In this regard, the best time to work with plants is the waxing moon.
Spring vaccination rules:
- The air temperature should be positive, the weather should be calm;
- The best time of day is morning or evening.
What is required to complete the work
To perform all the manipulations with the scion and stock, you will need a set of tools that are in the arsenal of every gardener:
- a knife with a short sharpened blade;
- grafting knife;
- budding knife;
- hacksaw or pruner.
Features and benefits of this tool:
- less traumatic than usual;
- allows you to make curly cuts so that the articulation of plant parts is perfect;
- performs thin and precise cuts for budding.
There is different models grafting secateurs. Expensive ones differ more high quality steel from which knives are made.
Such a novelty as a grafting pruner and the knives included in its package caused a mass negative feedback. Therefore, it will be easier for inexperienced gardeners to start learning different methods of grafting using a standard set of tools: grafting or budding knives, garden pruners.
Materials for work
There is one feature in the use of garden pitch. Manufacturers of this product are trying to make it universal, suitable for use in regions with different, including harsh climates. Thus, companies seek to expand the sales market.
This approach affects the quality of products. In some climatic zones, a standard garden pitch cracks or drains from the treatment site after a while, exposing the injured area.
What kind of garden variety do you use?
PurchasedHomemade
If the drug purchased in the store turned out to be useless, you can prepare your own, high-quality one. There are several recipes self-manufacturing garden pitch. On the hastily you can make the one that is called "rustic":
- Take 1 part liquid cow dung and oily resin. Mix thoroughly.
- Add fluff and fine pet hair for density.
The result is a sticky and viscous mass with good healing properties.
To strengthen the scion on the rootstock, tying is necessary. For this purpose, narrow tapes cut from a plastic bag are used. Some gardeners apply duct tape by winding it around the branch with the sticky side facing out.
How to choose the right scion and rootstock
The result of vaccination directly depends on how correctly the donor plant and stock are chosen. For 
The success of the event is guided by the recommendations:
- plants must be healthy, without visible damage to the trunk;
- if the purpose of the vaccination is to change the growth and crown of the tree, optimal age rootstock plants - up to 3 years;
- the best rootstock for this climate zone will be the variety that consistently gives good harvests in these climatic conditions;
- it is advisable to harvest the scion from apple trees that bear fruit for at least two seasons.
The effectiveness of grafting work also depends on the relatedness of the varieties. The closer they are, the better the result. But the choice of related varieties is not required condition. You can also graft wild apple trees, thereby cultivating them.
How to prepare cuttings
An important point in harvesting cuttings is the choice of wood. It must be healthy and over a year old. It is desirable that the donor tree show its productivity, and the gardener knows what the taste of the fruit of this variety is.
Rules for the preparation and storage of cuttings:
If there is no basement or cellar, choose another storage method. Before the onset of cold weather, the cuttings are wrapped in wet burlap and placed in the coolest place at home. After snow falls, the burlap is replaced with plastic wrap so that top part the branch was free.
Next, the scion is transferred to a snowdrift and set so that the branches protrude from under the snow. This is important so that they do not “suffocate”. With the onset of spring, measures are taken to preserve the snowdrift and slow down its melting. To do this, a layer of sawdust or sand is poured over the snow. After the snowdrift melts, the cuttings are again placed in burlap and moistened.
Requirements for the quality of cuttings:
- on the branch chosen for engraftment there should be 3-4 full-fledged buds without visible damage;
- the best part of the branch for cuttings is the middle one;
- the upper cut of the scion should be even and made obliquely;
- the lower cut of the scion is made as required by the rules for performing the selected grafting method.
Methods for grafting apple trees
Among the types of apple tree grafts listed below, there are often and rarely used ones. The most effective ways:
- budding;
- in a split;
- copulation.
Regardless of the method chosen, several requirements must be met:
- prepare the instrument by disinfecting it and degreasing it;
- wash your hands thoroughly;
- during the execution of work, try not to touch the cut planes on the cuttings and rootstocks.
Budding
Budding is one of the most commonly used methods for grafting apple trees. This method is also called "bud grafting" or "eye grafting". Beginning gardeners often choose the wrong material for grafting. Therefore, it is important to remember two rules:
- you can not use opened or half-opened buds, the scion must be "sleeping";
- the best choice is last year's kidney.
This method shows good engraftment, is simple and fast. Therefore, it is recommended for inexperienced gardeners.
Optimal time performing the procedure - early spring or the second seasonal sap flow (early-mid-August, depending on the region).
You can find recommendations about vaccination with an awakened, blooming bud. These tips are wrong, because they do not take into account one point: the awakened kidney needs the juices that it receives from the tree for further development. When transplanting, a problem arises: the flow of juices stops, and obtaining new ones (on a rootstock) is difficult due to the long survival time. Therefore, grafting with a blossoming bud is often ineffective, since the graft simply dries up without having time to become part of the rootstock.
Scion harvesting requirements:
- The stalk with buds is harvested 1-2 days before the scheduled procedure.
- For storage, it is placed in a jar of water at room temperature.
- 3-5 days before the cuttings are taken, the donor tree is abundantly watered.
- The optimal cutting thickness is 10-15 mm.
- All leaves are removed from the cutting.
- Store the material for vaccination in a cool and poorly lit place.
Stages of budding:
After two weeks, the success of the procedure is checked. To do this, touch the eye and watch it. If it falls off easily, the vaccination was successful. If the kidney is held firmly, there is a high risk that it will dry out. Therefore, they do not waste time and repeat budding, choosing a place next to the first eye.
There are special budding knives for kidney grafting. This tool is equipped with a rounded blade, on one side of which there is a plastic or metal plate. It is necessary for cutting the bark. This knife is sharpened on both sides. In this case, the plant is less injured when cut.
Grafting in the incision
Grafting into a lateral incision is in many ways reminiscent of budding, but is performed using a cutting. For work, a special grafting knife is used, which is sharpened only on one side (from the one on which the chamfer is located).
Stages of work:
- At the prepared cutting, the lower tip is cut off again: it is updated.
- A branch is selected on the apple tree for engraftment of the scion and retreat from the place of its attachment to the trunk 200-250 mm.
- Bring the knife to the selected place and set it, slightly tilting down.
- An incision is made to a depth of 5-8 mm with an accurate and quick movement.
- The stalk is carefully inserted into the resulting incision.
- Coat the injured area with putty.
- Cover with plastic wrap.
Graft for the bark
This type of grafting is optimal for trees older than 3 years. It is optimal for acclimatization and increasing the yield of apple trees, which are reluctant to develop in this region. This method is classified as complex and requires precision movements and skill. Grafting is performed only in the spring, since at this time of the year it is easier to separate the bark from the fibers of the branch. Up to 4 cuttings can be grafted at the same time.
Stages of work:
- Choose a place on the apple tree, located at a distance of 1-1.2 m from the ground.
- Cut the wood with a knife, making an incision 4-5 cm long.
- Gently shift the bark.
- Cut off the lower end of the cutting.
- They wind him up by the bark.
- Wrap with polyethylene.
Beginning gardeners often make one mistake: when preparing a cutting, they do not take into account the direction of bud growth. Therefore, branches are sometimes engrafted, the eyes of which are directed downwards, and not upwards. You need to be careful when performing each stage of the work.
There is another point on which the success of the procedure depends - the speed of its implementation. For those who do not have experience, it is advisable to practice on unnecessary branches of other trees.
Copulation with tongue
This grafting method will require cuttings, the buds of which are in a state of awakening, but the leaves are not yet visible. Branches are used as grafting material annual plants. The optimal time for the procedure is early spring.
A prerequisite for this method of grafting is the same cross section (diameter) of the scion and rootstock branches. To perform the work, you will need a grafting pruner, on which a blade is installed that allows you to make a curly cut.
Work performance rules:
- In the selected place on the apple-rootstock, the bark is cut out with a pruner in a T-shape.
- At the bottom end of the scion, a curly T-shaped cutout is made.
- Align the cut planes on both plants so that they fit as closely as possible to each other.
- Tie the place of the graft with plastic tape.
This is hard way, therefore, as in the previous case, it is recommended for beginners to acquire some skill in advance in making curly cuts.
In split
In this method, it is important to observe one rule: the diameter of the branch chosen for engraftment of the scion should not exceed 50 mm. Otherwise, the risk of decay is high. To complete the task, you will need a sharply sharpened hatchet.
Stages of work:
Implantation
Grafting by implantation is in many ways similar to the “incision” method, but has its own characteristics. The main difference: the implantation technique requires the presence of scion and rootstock branches of the same thickness.
Stages of work:
- They choose a branch on the apple tree that is at least 25 cm from the ground, and cut it obliquely.
- A branch is chosen for the scion and a cutting is cut out in its middle.
- The lower end of the cutting is combined with a cut on an apple tree.
- They tie the junction of the branches so that the butt smeared with pitch remains free.
- A plastic bag is put on the resulting "stump" and fixed with a tie.
The stalk is released from the package after the appearance of the first leaves.
Safety
Grafting apple trees is a procedure involving the use of traumatic tools. In order to 
To minimize the risk of harm to yourself, follow a few simple rules:
- Work is carried out in dry calm weather.
- During the procedure, try not to be distracted.
- Make sure that when cutting branches left hand was not under the knife's edge.
- Before making a cut with a knife or splitting with an ax, mentally trace the trajectory of the tool.
- When cutting the end of the handle, the movement of the knife should be directed “away from you”.
Reasons for failure
In novice gardeners, the effectiveness of vaccinations is usually low. The main problem is the premature drying of the cuttings and buds due to the slow growth of the scion and rootstock. This trouble is caused by a loose fit of the cut planes, which are made incorrectly, have waves or notches.
Another reason for poor survival is insufficient protection against bacteria and pests. Therefore, it is necessary to carry out quality processing injured places with garden pitch. It can be replaced with plasticine (less desirable) or clay.
Errors in the preparation of the scion and its attachment to the rootstock can be compensated to some extent by the installation of plastic bags. They are immediately put on the ends of the grafted branches. In order for the bags not to interfere with the growth of the scion, the length of the bags should be at least 15 cm.
If you don’t have suitable polyethylene on hand, you can use thick paper. It is rolled up in a roll so that a hollow cylinder 10-15 cm long is obtained. The roll is placed on a scion and the paper is fastened with twine.
After the scion takes root and becomes a full-fledged part of the stock, in the first season, all leaves and shoots are removed from the young branch. This is necessary in order for her to gain strength. They also make sure that neighboring branches do not obscure the scion.
Advice! Initially, early ripening varieties of apples are grafted, and then medium and, finally, late are expected.
There are many ways to vaccinate. It is possible to bud and graft over the bark or on a thick branch to the edge of the cut, or graft a young shoot into a split or behind the bark of a thick branch.
One of the methods of summer vaccination is for the bark of a thick branch.
Vaccination times for different regions Russia differ:
- Ural and most Siberia you need to finish budding before August 5, but they take root most optimally from July 12 to July 24;
- AT Kaluga, Moscow, Leningrad and Kaliningrad regions and to the southern regions of the Non-Black Earth Region budding begins in mid-July and ends by mid-August;
- For southern regions of the Non-Chernozem region and the central black earth regions of the Russian Federation- this time in the first half of August;
- For steppe climate optimal time budding - the second half of August, and for southern coast of Crimea, Caucasus, Astrakhan, Krasnodar this deadline falls on the twentieth of August.
Important! Varieties of different ripening apples react differently to grafting, so you can’t combine them!
Dates of summer grafting of apple trees on an adult tree
A fruitful tree is grafted in split and per bark small pieces of year-old shoots.
They try to find the time for such vaccinations. from late August to early September.
For summer grafting of aging apple trees, cuttings with “sleeping” buds are used, which will “wake up” only by next spring.
Choice of cuttings for grafting.
Carefully! When regrafting an old tree, do not immediately a large number of open wounds, this greatly weakens the apple tree and can destroy it!
And when can you vaccinate a wild animal?
The wild animal is ennobled by budding spring up to 4 years of age, but if the tree is already exceeded these deadlines, then the vaccination is already carried out summer.
But in June, the wild apple tree reluctantly accepts cultivated buds-eyes, and for bark with sleeping buds and in August.
Graft wild apple tree for the bark.
In the summer, the wild game "ennobles" July to mid August cleft grafting.
Grafting a wild apple tree in a split.
How about grafting an apple tree onto a pear tree?
An apple tree can be grafted onto an adult pear in the form of annual shoots. The time is right for this:
- From June - for bark grafting;
- Until the beginning of September - in a split with a twig.
Conclusion
Knowing when you can plant an apple tree in the summer, even if approximately, will help a summer resident or a novice gardener improve existing varieties or expand the range of apple varieties.
At the same time, his work will not be in vain, and in the future apple trees will be presented beautiful harvest on newly grafted branches.
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Want to be a good gardener and receive annually big harvest? Then this article is for you. After all, a real gardener should know all the secrets of proper tree care.
Do you want to get delicious fruits from your fruit trees? Then it is necessary to perform budding of fruit trees in the summer. This procedure is quite easy and even a novice gardener can handle it.
What is budding?
Grafting is often referred to as budding of fruit trees. It is the process of transferring one part of a plant to another. After a while, the transferred part grows together with the tree. Experts distinguish between several methods of vaccination:
- Copulation.
- Ablactation.
- Budding.
In copulation, a cutting is used. For this procedure, annual shoots are used, on which 3-4 buds are placed.
Ablactation - grafting with a plant. This method is rarely used, it is considered difficult.
Budding is the grafting of a plant vegetatively - by a kidney. It is cut from an annual shoot with bark and small area wood.
It is budding that is considered easier to perform. This method of grafting promotes better merging with the stock, which means that the grafted variety will take root faster.
Why graft a plant?
Often budding of fruit trees is carried out if there are no plants of the desired variety on sale. Why is this procedure so popular not only among amateurs, but also among specialists in their field?
- Increasing the frost resistance of the grafted tree.
- Promotes fast harvesting.
- Promotes the emergence of high-quality and valuable varieties.
- The ability to create the necessary varieties.
The indisputable advantage of budding fruit trees is the safety more space. After all, often experienced gardeners plant several varieties on one plant. Thus, not only space is saved, but new taste qualities of fruits are also created.
Benefits of budding
The benefits of budding fruit trees are obvious. But you should understand the merits of this process.
Many experts argue that from almost any formed bud of a selected plant, you can get a healthy fruit tree with all the advantages of the selected variety. The process of budding itself is quite simple and a novice gardener can handle it. The procedure is quite fast.
Due to the small grafting area, the integrity of the rootstock is practically not disturbed, and the branch is not injured. If, for one reason or another, you were not able to perform the procedure correctly the first time, you can re-vaccinate in the same rootstock.
The advantage of budding is the fact that for grafting it is necessary to use a minimum of stock material. This is especially important if the grower has only a few cuttings.
Variety of vaccinations
There are several ways to graft fruit trees. They differ in the type of scion.
According to the technique of execution, vaccinations are distinguished:
- Wedge.
- In an example.
- In a split.
- Dudkoy.
- In side cut.
- For bark.
- Budding in a T-shaped shield.
- Copulation improved or direct.
- Budding for example.
These methods are the most popular. But in practice, many gardeners use only 5 of them.
According to the place of grafting, vaccinations are also distinguished. They can be performed on such a part of the plant:
- Root.
- Crown branches.
- Trunk.
- Stump.
In addition, the scion can be located both on top and on the side. Grafting from above requires cutting off the top of the plant. So new variety will form up the tree. Lateral grafting is formed on the side of the trunk, without cutting off the top of the stock.
Timing of vaccination
The timing of the budding of fruit trees is different. This procedure can be performed in spring, summer and winter.
Inoculation in spring time carried out during a period of intensive sap flow. In this case, the scion is harvested at the end of autumn or at the very beginning of spring, when it is still in dormant mode. Spring vaccination is carried out in April or May. Make sure that the kidneys have not yet had time to swell.
In summer, vaccination should be done from July. Terms of summer budding of fruit trees: from July 20 to August 31. As a scion, shoots and buds well developed throughout the year are used.
Winter vaccination is carried out indoors. It is during the winter months that the seedling is spliced. And in the spring, already grafted plants are planted in the ground. Vaccination can be done in winter. The main thing is that the air temperature should not be lower than + 2 ° С.
The most productive vaccination is considered summer and autumn. Indeed, during this period, the bark of the tree moves well from the trunk, and the cambium, in turn, divides well. Therefore, the procedure is greatly simplified, which ensures good survival of the kidneys.
When is it better: spring or summer?
The time when you can perform this procedure has already been agreed. But what are the terms of budding of fruit trees? And when is the best time to vaccinate?
Begin to perform this procedure in early August. Gardeners are actively working for the next 4 weeks. First of all, stone fruit varieties (plum, cherry, cherry plum) are grafted, and after that - pome varieties (pear, apple).
Pay attention to the fact that the kidney and wild are of the desired development. The buds and eyes that appear on the shoots must finally form. How to define it? Experienced gardeners bend the chosen escape. If at the same time a crunch is heard, then the rootstocks are ready. At the same time, we remember that the bark should leave well.
Budding is performed before the end of summer, when the vegetation of the plant continues.
Vaccinated in over early term threatens that the cuttings may germinate. And at the first frost, unable to withstand the temperature, they die. Conversely, the vaccination carried out at a later date often does not have time to take root.
Budding rules
Experienced gardeners know that this procedure is quite simple, but requires certain rules to be followed. Do you want the new variety to take root well? The following rules should be followed:
- Only related plants are grafted. Stone fruits - for stone fruits, seed - for seeds.
- Make sure that the layer between the wood and the bark (cambium) of the cutting adheres well to the selected shoot.
Inoculation"
One of the most common ways of budding fruit trees is the "eye" grafting. In this case, a single kidney acts as a scion. In the spring, a bud formed last summer is grafted. Gardeners harvest grafts from cuttings harvested in autumn or winter. This method of grafting has the advantage that gardeners often choose it. After all, this season the grafted kidney will grow.
Summer budding occurs from a bud that has matured in this season. A new shoot from it is formed only next spring.
Features of scion and rootstock
When choosing plants for summer budding of fruit trees (grafting) with a bud, you should carefully examine the elements.
First of all, shoots should be small. Their diameter is not more than 15 mm. The rootstock should have elastic, young bark, which can be easily cut with a knife in the future.
Examine the internodes for budding. They should be free of knots and swelling. The surface must be smooth and even.
A kidney for budding must be selected fully mature and well developed.
Cutting selection
Remember that all cuttings that are used for grafting should be taken from fruit trees. standard types. Special attention should be given intravarietal selection of cuttings for grafting.
Do not use cuttings from old trees affected by diseases. Also, you can not use young varieties that do not yet bear fruit, because you do not know exactly what kind of crop you can get from this tree.
Advantages and disadvantages
Many processes in our lives have their pros and cons, including vaccination. Budding of fruit trees has its own characteristics, for some it is not suitable. For example, evergreen trees cannot be grafted. So, let's talk about the advantages of this procedure:
- Ideal for breeding fruit plants that cannot divide vegetatively.
- Helps improve branching.
- Promotes more active growth tree.
- Cuttings are cut at the place of fruiting.
- Grafted plants begin to bloom and bear fruit earlier.
- High reproduction rate.
Vaccination also has its drawbacks:
- Large expenditure of time and effort for care;
- For some plants, grafting shortens the life. For example, red-flowering chestnuts gradually die after such a procedure.
- Sometimes there is a physiological incompatibility.
- Often ornamental plants the quality of planting material deteriorates.
- Plant growth slows down.
Despite the many disadvantages, it should be remembered that the summer budding of fruit trees is important. Sometimes for plants it is the only way breeding.
How to vaccinate?
It is difficult to carry out budding of fruit trees in the summer alone. Therefore, many novice gardeners need to find an assistant. One person will graft, and the other will tie up the element with the kidney with a cloth.
It is important to prepare a good, sharp, clean knife and cloth natural materials. It can be cotton fabric or gauze.
A week before the procedure, a wild bird should be prepared. Near the neck of the root it is necessary to rake the earth. In parallel, you should check the separation of the bark of the rootstock. Does the bark come off well? You can follow the procedure.
If the bark on the rootstock does not separate well, the plant should be well watered. So before budding, the growth of the plant is activated and the bark will leave well. Remember that the kidney will not take root on wild animals on which the bark does not go well.
Experts have prepared some tips for gardeners. Budding of fruit trees will be successful if all recommendations are followed.
Vaccination is performed in sunny, calm weather.
Before performing the procedure, wipe the barrel with a wet cloth. We use only mature buds for grafting. The lower and apical ocelli are not recommended, because they are not sufficiently developed.
A cutting with wood and bark is cut from a tree. They form a shield.
To obtain a shield, a 1.5-2 cm incision should be made on the trunk a little below the kidney. Cut off the shield start 2 cm above the kidney. The knife is led down, touching the bark, cambium and sapwood.
The resulting shield is wedged into the incision of the cortex and bandaged, securely closing everything except the kidney.
A positive result largely depends on the experience of the gardener, the cleanliness of the knife, the speed and quality of dressing. Almost 99% of pome varieties are successfully grafted, which cannot be said about stone fruits.
Examination
The fusion of the kidney with the trunk occurs quickly. After 2-2.5 weeks, it is necessary to check the survival process.
On the positive result indicate:
- Freshness of the kidney in appearance.
- Pale green hue of the cortex bark.
- Rapid detachment of the petiole.
If the result is negative, then the eye becomes dull, dry. Over time, it shrinks and dies.
After the kidney has taken root, cultivation should be performed. This process will make the kidney not so dense.
In autumn, the tree is well watered and spud.
Conclusion
Budding - effective method make your tree more fertile and healthy. This inexpensive and simple method can be mastered by a novice amateur gardener.
Do you want to get good delicious harvest? Then pay attention to proper care behind the plant. And most importantly - for budding, choose good and suitable cuttings.
Every gardener should know this method of grafting.
Some gardeners are wondering if grafting trees should be done only in the spring, or if this procedure can be performed in the summer. Indeed, the grafting of fruit trees can also be carried out in the summer, only in the period of intensive growth, as a rule, this time comes in May - June. That is, when the grafted cuttings will not be at rest, as usual, but, on the contrary, in the phase of active growth.
Cuttings prepared for grafting after removing the leaves: A - last year's shoot with shoots of the current year (1 - shortened side cutting; 2 - longer side cutting; 3 - apical stalk with part of last year's shoot), B - cuttings with part of last year's shoot (4 - with one shoot of the current year; 5 - with two shoots); B - a cutting of the current year with a lignified base.
Grafting trees in summer
Graft material must be harvested from mother plants and only before grafting. And you can graft only with growing shoots (as shown in the figure) with last year's wood and with developed conductive vessels, which can become an intermediary between the stock and scion. And a little later, when the base of the growing shoots becomes woody, they will need to be cut, but without last year's wood.
To exclude the option of withering of the growing part of the growth of the current year, the prepared material must be kept in a humid and cool room before grafting. The green part of the cutting should have a length of 0.5 - to 3 cm. Too long must be shortened.
For these purposes, you can also use the growing side shoots. They are cut with the shield of last year's wood, approximately the same as when budding, but the length should be at least 2.5 cm. part of the shield, stronger and earlier growing together with the stock.
With summer vaccinations in without fail there is one more rule to follow. Namely, on cuttings of summer shoots with a lignified base, there should also be (in the lower part) several fully formed buds.
The cuttings themselves are grafted into the end of the cut branch, by the bark method, or into the T-shaped side cut of the bark of a branch or trunk. You can also try to vaccinate by copulation or other methods.
As in the case of conventional grafting, in the summer period it is also possible to graft cuttings with lateral growths (in the amount of 1-2 pieces) of the current year. We tie the place of vaccination with a film, and cover the wounds with garden pitch. The cuttings take root in 15 - 20 days, leaves form on them and they start to grow. Soon, the scion should grow together with the stock.
In the year of vaccination, the probability that strong shoots are obtained from the established cuttings is not great, so they may well need both a garter and a tweezer. But the summer vaccination has its own advantage, that is, you will not need to harvest and store cuttings, as is usually done in late autumn. At the same time, from one mother plant you can prepare more green cuttings, as new ones will soon grow in their place.
And, of course, the timing - the vaccination time can be stretched for almost 2 months. In conclusion, I would like to add that this vaccination method was developed and patented in the early 80s in Lithuania. He was tested on a pear and survival different kind green cuttings ranged from 95 to 99%.
Vaccination is a surgical operation, the instrument must always be in a clean condition, before starting it must be treated with alcohol or an alcohol-containing solution. After each cut, the grafting knife should be wiped with a clean cloth.
I wrap the wrist of my left hand, several times with a bandage or a cloth, and after each cut I wipe the knife. There are many methods of vaccination, enough has been written about them and I will not dwell on them. For beginners, it is best to use bark grafting (done with the beginning of sap flow) and split grafting. The main thing is to learn how to make an even, oblique cut on the handle, it is better to practice at home, and then in the garden.
It is necessary to vaccinate in cloudy weather, if it rains, do not vaccinate. If, after the cut, the stalk falls to the ground or you accidentally touch it with your hand, then you need to make a new cut, otherwise the vaccine will not work for you. Before grafting, be sure to wipe the stalk with a wet cloth, cleaning it of dirt.
In many cases, amateur gardeners different reasons spring grafting with a cutting fails, and they are forced to re-carry out either the usual summer budding with a sleeping eye, or spring grafting with a cutting on next year, which entails the loss of annual growth of vaccinations. I have already 58 year old successful experience carrying out early (from May 25 to June 30) budding and grafting many fruit plants using buds (eyes) and cuttings from the shoots of the current year.
For budding and grafting, the lower lignified or semi-lignified parts of the growing shoots are taken. When grafting at the end of May, when the new shoot has not yet become woody, it must be cut off from the mother plant with part of last year's wood. It has developed conductive vessels that have not yet had time to form in the non-lignified part of the shoot of the current year, which means that it is able to grow together with the stock and be an intermediary in providing it with moisture and nutrients. When vaccinated in more than late dates, when part of the annual shoot has already had time to become woody, a good survival rate of grafts is also observed when using cuttings without perennial wood.
In preparation for grafting, the leaves and herbaceous parts of the annual shoot are removed. When grafted with a cutting, it should be short (maximum 2–3 buds). When budding, the buds from the semi-lignified part of the growing shoots take root well.
The technique and techniques of grafting and budding are the most common. When grafted with cuttings in hot weather it is advisable to put covers on grafted cuttings from polyethylene film before they grow. The survival rate of budding and grafting at this time is very good or high due to the intensive growth of the stock. Grafted individual buds and buds on grafted cuttings bloom after a week, after a maximum of 12 days, and the growth of shoots begins, which by the end of July reaches 20–50 cm (depending on the timing of vaccination, the quality of the rootstock and scion, weather conditions).
Unlike the spring grafting with a cutting, these graftings grow very tightly with the stock and small sizes do not require a garter to other branches or special rods, as well as some other operations to prevent breakage. This significantly reduces the complexity of vaccination care. Shoots from late June budding and grafting, regardless of their length, to exclude winter freezing, require mandatory pinching (possible with bending down the tops) at the end of August for faster lignification.
I have grafted apple trees, pears, plums, cherries, apricots, mountain ash, hawthorns, shadberry, quince, cotoneaster, bird cherry and other crops in this way, and always got good results. I received cuttings for grafting from different places. Often he brought it himself, being on business trips, or received it by mail. When requesting cuttings to be sent by mail, I always asked that they send me the May cuttings of the current year with part of the perennial wood. Grafting fruit plants at the indicated times is especially suitable for the propagation of cherries, plums and apricots. Cherry during spring grafting with cuttings, due to the rapid oxidation of cuts, gives a very small percentage of survival. During summer budding with a sleeping eye, a significant number of buds do not have time to grow normally with the stock before frost. An addition to the death of overwintering buds is also made by the constant ongoing partial underheating and complete dampening of these buds. And only early summer budding and grafting guarantees a good yield of grafted cherry plants. Plum and apricot, although they give a large percentage of the yield of accustomed grafts or seedlings from spring grafting, nevertheless, from early budding and grafting, this percentage is much higher. Summer budding with a dormant eye of these plants due to the mass decay of grafted buds in winter in our conditions is generally meaningless.
I would also like to draw attention to the convenience of using budding and grafting at the indicated times in a more free time for amateur gardeners, since spring budding with a germinating bud and grafting with cuttings require the most stressful and busy spring time, which is not always feasible.
At one time, my father, who mastered all the methods of vaccination at the same time as me, preferred early budding and vaccination to all other methods. He was especially proud of the almost 100% yield of cherry grafts, which were very poorly received by other amateur gardeners he knew. In my garden, a 55-year-old Vladimirskaya cherry tree, grafted in its time in mid-June with an eye on the offspring of the Volga steppe cherry, is still growing and bearing fruit in a slate form, though not very well anymore.
For spring and early summer vaccinations, you need to prepare in advance. Stock up on cuttings and everything you need, and before this time, practice at the table, independently mastering budding and grafting techniques or restoring skills lost over the winter.
Based on the materials of the newspaper "Ural Gardener", No. 12, 2011
