Drainage system around the house: a drainage device for the foundation of a residential building. How to make drainage in a summer cottage - the easiest way and something more complicated Surface drainage around the house

The foundations of private houses require protection from excessive wetting, since precipitation and rising groundwater levels can lead to the destruction of monolithic foundations. In this regard, the question arises: how to properly make drainage around the house with your own hands. The opinion that in the presence of a blind area it is possible to avoid the ingress of excessive moisture into the soil adjacent to the base is erroneous. Only the installation of a well-thought-out drainage system will protect the house without reference to the presence or absence of premises below ground level.

Installation of any type of drainage system around a residential building must necessarily begin with the design of all stages of work on the creation of structures that contribute to the removal of excess moisture. To protect the foundation of the house and basements, the best solution would be to use wall drainage, which ensures the full removal of precipitation from the building.

If groundwater is located quite high on the site, then the presence of waterproofing alone will not save you in any way. In this case, precipitation can be removed from the foundation of a residential building only through the arrangement of a well-thought-out drainage system.

If we approach the issue of creating an engineering structure in a comprehensive manner, it will be necessary to perform the following front of work:

1. By using quality materials to produce foundation waterproofing.
2. Implement the installation of a system that can affect groundwater in terms of reducing its level ( drainage).
3. Mount surface drainage at home.

Types of drainage

When choosing a specific engineering structure for installation around a residential building, it should be borne in mind that there are several types of such systems.

wall

This type of drainage is mandatory for installation if the house has basements and basements. Installation of a wall watercourse is carried out along the perimeter of the foundation, which is desirable to do at the stage of excavation during the construction of a house.

This approach eliminates unnecessary excavation, and this in turn reduces the cost of installing the system and reduces labor costs.

Direct laying of drainage is carried out along the perimeter of the base of the building with the withdrawal of pipes from its corners to the manholes. The lowest located part of the system should be used for the construction of an outlet well in this place, which, from a functional point of view, will play the role of an accumulator of precipitation with their further withdrawal outside the site.

To ensure a greater level of security, it is advisable to equip the so-called clay castle at a distance of one meter from the home.

Trench

If the house is located on soil that is saturated with clay and is characterized by the absence of basements and basements, then a trench drainage system, known as an annular drainage system, can be used. Such a drainage channel is laid with an indent from the building by 1.5-3 m.

Here, as in the previous case, the installation of a clay castle is supposed, the location of which should be determined by the space between the foundation and the drainage system.

It is important that the depth of the drains correspond to a level that is 0.5 m below the deepest point of the foundation. Pipes are laid on a layer of material that does not impede the passage of water, for example, on crushed stone.

When is the best time to install drainage?

The most suitable time for installing systems designed to remove precipitation from the house is the summer period, starting from the 15th of July and ending in mid-August. The choice of this time is explained very simply: in connection with the peak of the summer heat, which falls on the designated segment, there is a decrease in the level of groundwater occurrence.

Although one should not relax in this case, since no one can exclude force majeure circumstances. Therefore, it is worth taking care of the presence of a pump with which you can quickly pump out precipitation. Still, digging trenches brings you closer to groundwater, but does not remove you in any way. I would not want the rather laborious process of installing an engineering structure to be repeated anew, since water in the trenches can cause trouble.

Drainage scheme

In practice, such drainage systems as trench and wall are used. The choice of a specific implementation option for the varieties under consideration largely depends on the following factors: type of soil, terrain, etc.

Which is also called ring, finds its application in those areas where sandy soil is present. In terms of structure, it is a closed system that accumulates atmospheric precipitation in a collector with their further diversion into ravines and various reservoirs. Such a system cannot be installed closer than 5 m from the house, since failure to comply with such a requirement can cause soil shrinkage, and this, in turn, will negatively affect the condition of the foundation.

wall drainage used in other conditions compared to the trench system. In particular, it is used on soils with a high content of clay and characterized by a high occurrence of groundwater.

The main elements of wall drainage are drains, that is, perforated pipes. In addition, such a structure consists of wells that serve as water reservoirs and inspection pits necessary to control the functioning of the system at pipe junctions and at the turning points of the conduit.

Wall drainage of a country house is a system consisting of pipes and other elements, which is a closed structure, the location of which is determined by the perimeter of the building at a distance of half a meter from the walls of the building.

If the relief of the territory does not allow installing drainage around a private house so that water is removed from the collector in a natural way, care must be taken to install pumping equipment.

Installation of wall drainage

If you have a desire to independently equip a drainage system, then know that this work is up to everyone. Therefore, feel free to correct the mistakes made during the construction of the house, since it is advisable to install drains even at the stage of construction of a particular structure.

To put our plans into practice, you should understand the basics of creating the type of systems in question, and then dig trenches and lay pipes. The conduits, known as drains, are required to have a certain slope with respect to the storage well, which should be approximately 2 degrees, starting from the highest point of the drainage system.

If we translate this into centimeters and linear meters, it turns out that for each specified pipe length there should be 2 cm of depression.

When laying cylindrical products without bends, manholes should be installed at a distance of no more than 40 m. If it is assumed that there are turns in water conduits, then such wells should be located at a distance of no more than 25 m from those places where such bends are observed.

Pipes are installed to a depth of 30 to 50 cm from the reference point, which is set at the level of the lower base of the foundation. In this case, one more condition must be observed: the depth of the drainage system cannot be higher than the depth of soil freezing.

At the same time, the blind area being constructed must be of sufficient width to exclude the possibility of water entering the soil located between the house and the drainage system. The blind area should be perceived as a layer of thermal insulation, which helps to reduce the depth of soil freezing and protect water conduits.

Foundation waterproofing

Before installing the drainage, some preliminary work should be carried out to protect the base from water penetration. To do this, you will need to perform the following steps:

• apply a geotextile fabric with its further coating with bituminous mastic;
• use roofing material, which implies the obligatory construction of the so-called pressure brick wall;
• apply sprayed waterproofing with its subsequent reinforcement with geotextiles.

Installation of drains

At this stage, you can begin to install water conduits. Such a process involves quite laborious work, including the following:

1. Initially, you need to dig a trench for laying drainage pipes. A long ditch should be at least 1 meter away from the foundation, provided it is located lower relative to the base of the house. Since it is assumed that a 110 mm perforated polymer pipe will be used for laying the drainage, the width of the trench should correspond to it. The cylindrical product should not be laid close to the walls of the ditch, as this will not allow backfilling properly. It is necessary that there is at least 10 cm free space on each side of the pipe.
2. The bottom of the trench must be leveled with a layer of sand 5 to 10 cm thick. At the same time, one should not forget that the bottom of the ditch should have a slope of 2 cm per 1 running meter.
3. It is necessary to lay geotextiles on the resulting sandy layer so that the edges of the canvas go onto the walls of the trench, where they need to be securely fixed.
4. The next layer should be gravel - from 10 to 15 cm.
5. Then you can proceed directly to the installation of drains, installed with a slope in the direction of the well.
6. On top of the laid pipes, another layer of gravel is poured of the same thickness as below, that is, from 10 to 15 cm.
7. From above, the building material is covered with a geotextile sheet, the ends of which are fixed.
8. On the last drain, installed at a distance of at least 5 meters from the house, a water receiver is installed.
9. The place under the tank for collecting precipitation is lined with geotextiles with the capture of the bottom and walls. Then a plastic container is placed here, at the bottom of which holes are made, which is preferable compared to other solutions.
10. The tank with openings must be firmly fixed, as heaving forces can simply squeeze it out. At the last stage of work, this structure is necessarily covered with gravel with laying on top of the soil layer.

Caring for a wall drainage system

For the full functioning of this type of artificially created watercourse, it should be regularly inspected at least once a month. This refers to the control of wells that can become contaminated, which implies their mandatory cleaning of debris.

In spring and autumn, these checks should be made more frequently, as there is usually a lot of rain during these periods of the year. In the spring, snow melts, which provokes the appearance of a large amount of melt water. Here it is already necessary to clean not only the drainage system itself, but also the storm sewer.

A component of a suburban building and a house adjoining area is the drainage system around the house: the drainage device, its features and installation rules for this design must be studied before starting work. Please read the installation requirements before installation. The technology for creating a wall-mounted drainage scheme is popular.

Drainage design effectively removes water from buildings

The process of arranging a drainage structure is different from waterproofing. But the use of these measures in combination will create a complete protection of the building from moisture.

Proper arrangement of the drainage system around the house will help to reduce the level of excess fluid in the area. The drainage device involves compliance with the installation technology and the use of special materials.

Helpful information! The building can be flooded from the outside and inside. Especially if groundwater runs close to the surface.

Constant exposure to moisture can destroy the foundation of the house and provoke the appearance of putrefactive formations, fungi and other pathogenic microorganisms.

The installation of a wall drainage system is carried out even after the installation of all construction work.

A drainage device is required in the following cases:

• the adjoining territory and the rest of the plot are located in a lowland;
• clay and loamy soils prevent the absorption of excess moisture;
• a large amount of precipitation throughout the year and water accumulates on the surface;
• close location of groundwater.

The main types of stormwater and drainage around the house

When deciding how to properly drain around the house, it is worth deciding on important points:

• make calculations;
• in accordance with the conditions of the area, choose a type of design;
• select materials that are suitable for operational and technical characteristics;
• make drainage of the foundation and blind areas.

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Every area needs drainage. But its organization is a rather complicated and expensive process. Let's consider the best option together.

Features of choice for drainage of the foundation

The type of construction is selected taking into account the characteristics of a particular site. Surface structures are of the following types:

• storm sewers are installed around the household. Differs in simple technology, is established independently. But such a design will not protect against groundwater;
• the linear system is designed to drain the site and the adjacent area. Excess water accumulates in a special well;
• point construction is a way to drain the foundation. In this case, moisture is removed from local sources. Such drainage is covered with gratings that protect the device from debris.

Helpful information! On its site, a combined version is used, consisting of a linear and point systems.

Arrangement of high-quality drainage around the house: turnkey price

Turnkey work will have a higher price than the cost of a do-it-yourself drainage system around the house.

But it does offer:

• quality of work;
• installation in compliance with technological standards;
• correct calculations and selection of suitable materials;
• speed of work and the absence of gross errors.

The cost of arranging a surface storm drain will cost 1500-1900 per linear meter, and a deeper version - 2300-2700 rubles. Plus, the installation of storm water inlets is added to the indicated cost. When calculating the cost, risers falling from the roof are taken into account.

Popular schemes for the garden plot and foundation

Drainage around the house is of two types: drainage of the base of the building and drains of the garden plot.

To equip the drainage on the site, you should use the following schemes:

• selective option;
• parallel arrangement;
• herringbone.

Drainage systems are of open and closed type. Wall and ring options are used. The wall construction is carried out along the perimeter of the foundation. It should be used in the presence of a basement or basement.

Accurate calculations of the passage of pipes and the level of the floor are assumed by the drainage system around the house. The drainage device at the base of the building includes:

• sand cushion;
• geotextile material;
• pipeline;
• a layer of sand;
• ground layer;
• clay layer.

Helpful information! The depth of the trench is selected in accordance with the location of the base of the foundation, from which you should retreat half a meter down.

Order or do a do-it-yourself drainage device around the house?

The cost of a drainage structure depends on the level of drainage deepening and on the length of the building.

The table shows the prices for the work of wall and ring drainage.

Installing a collector well for any of their schemes will cost 35,000 rubles. For do-it-yourself drainage of the foundation on clay soils, it must be borne in mind that precipitation will accumulate in the upper soil layer.

How to do wall drainage

Before arranging the wall system, you will need to carry out the following work:

• surface treatment with a primer solution;
• applying bituminous mastic;
• installation of reinforcing mesh;
• surface drying;
• distribution of the second layer of mastic.

Mounting technology

The basic order of work on the drainage system consists of the following steps:

• a collector well is placed in a low place;
• using the building level, a recess is made with a slope towards the water collector;
• a sand cushion is made;
• geofabric is laid on top;
• a layer of gravel is formed;
• pipes are installed at an angle;
• connection of pipeline parts using adapters and corner connectors;
• placement of manholes;
• pouring another layer of gravel;
• wrapping highways with geotextile fabric;
• filling trenches with sand or earth.

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Arrangement of ring drainage around the house: how to do it yourself

To create a similar scheme around the building, a closed-type trench is made, which are also made with a slope.

The technology consists of the following steps:

• pouring sand on the bottom and laying geofabric;
• a pillow is created from crushed stone;
• installation of pipes with a slope of 2 degrees;
• installation of wells for inspection;
• rubble mound;
• winding with free edges of geotextile fabric;
• filling trenches with soil and sand.

Installation of a drainage structure without pipes

You can create drainage without pipes. At the same time, improvised materials are used: fragments of brick, concrete, stones and even plastic bottles. Used bunches of brushwood, long knots and boards. But such designs are not of high quality.

By following the rules of installation technology, you can create a durable drainage system.

Drainage system of groundwater and wastewater in a private house (video)

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Drainage at their summer cottage: the easiest way to protect against melt water and showers Geotextile for drainage (geotextile): types and characteristics of the material

There are several places in a private house that need to be protected from getting wet from the outside. This is the foundation and recessed buildings. Rainwater, all kinds of runoff and rising groundwater gradually destroy the monolithic foundations and walls of the basements. A properly equipped drainage system around the house can prevent the occurrence of this process. It is able to remove excess moisture from structures. Even a very good blind area cannot be compared in terms of the degree of protection of a house with a laid drainage system. It is highly recommended to equip such a system near each house, regardless of the presence of a basement or basement.

A high-quality drainage system around the house with your own hands can be made in several ways:

Features of different foundation drainage systems

The choice of a particular type of drainage depends on the presence of buried rooms, the depth of groundwater, the composition of the soil on the site and the topography of the site itself. Consider what features the drainage device around the house has.

In total, there are 3 types of drainage, which differ in their location and design:

Important: Please note that formation drainage does not replace other types of drainage, but only complements it. Therefore, in addition to it, the main drainage system should be carried out.

Please note that if you decide to do ring drainage around the house with your own hands, the system should be located 0.5 m below the foundation level. Such an arrangement will ensure high-quality removal of groundwater from the building at any time of the year.

And if you are thinking about that, then our separate material on this topic may be useful to you.

Drainage installation

Consider how to make a drainage system around the house in two ways.

Production of wall drainage

Before performing work, it is necessary to prepare the foundation, since the system will directly adjoin it.

For this, the following work is carried out:

1. The foundation from the outside is primed with a special bituminous primer.
2. Bituminous mastic is applied to the dried surface.
3. A reinforcing mesh with 2 x 2 mm cells is glued onto the mastic.
4. The next day, after the mastic has hardened, the second layer of mastic is again applied to the mesh.

• a collector well is mounted, to which drainage pipes will be connected. It is located at the lowest point on the site;
• using a laser or building level, the slope of the trench passing near the foundation is ensured towards the water collector;
• the bottom of the trenches is covered with a layer of sand of at least 5 cm;
• geotextiles are laid on the sand, the sides of which will subsequently be overlapped;
• a gravel backfill is created having a thickness of the order of 10 cm;
• prepared perforated pipes are laid on the gravel layer. They are provided with a slope of 2 degrees;
• pipes are joined by adapters and corner connectors;
• at the corners of the building, all pipelines enter the installed manholes;
• pipes are laid from the manholes, diverting water into a collection well or drain pit. These pipes are also located in trenches and have a slope;
• the pipes are backfilled with gravel (about 10 cm) and the entire contents are wrapped with geotextiles. By means of synthetic ropes, the geotextile is firmly fixed;
• further backfilling of the trenches to the level of the soil is carried out with sand or soddy soil.

We looked at how to make drainage around a wall-type foundation. Next, we will pay attention to the manufacture of trench drainage, which is even more popular.

Production of an annular drainage

For this type of work, you will also need perforated pipes, crushed stone, sand and geotextiles. When an annular drainage system is made around the house, the technology involves digging trenches at a distance of 5-8 m from the foundation of the building in order to exclude the possibility of subsidence of the soil around it. The trenches are located around the building and represent a closed system. The depth of the trenches should be such that the drainage passes below the level of the foundation by 50 cm.

A trench (or several trenches) is immediately carried out towards the main catchment well. The slope of the trenches is provided at least 2-3 cm per linear meter. The slope can be adjusted by adding sand in the right places.

• the bottom of the trenches is lined with a layer of sand, and then with geotextiles, the edges of which are wrapped around their walls;
• crushed stone is poured onto the geotextile with a layer of 10 cm;
• pipes with holes drilled in them are laid out on crushed stone. It is desirable to use a pipe diameter of at least 10 cm. It is advisable to pre-wrap all pipes with a layer of geotextile, which will prevent their clogging;

Tip: Ordinary PVC pipes used for sewerage are quite suitable. In them, you can drill holes of small diameter with a drill, placing them in a certain order.

• the slope of the pipes is checked, which must be at least 2 degrees;
• manholes are mounted at pipe bends, closed with removable covers. The same wells should be installed on long straight sections, with a step of 12 m;
• crushed stone or gravel is poured over the laid pipes with a layer of 20-30 cm;
• the entire “pie” inside the trenches is wrapped with overlapping geotextiles;
• the place remaining in the trenches is covered with river sand and covered with turf.

Features of drainage wells

Any drainage around a site or structure should be constructed using multiple manholes located at pipe bends. It is in these places that clogging of drainage pipes most often occurs. Through the manhole, you can control the cleanliness of the drains and clean them if necessary. Wells can be purchased or made from any material. They should be of such a width that it is convenient to clean them by lowering your hand there.

In addition to several manholes, at the lowest point of the site is collector well designed to collect all the water flowing through the channels. This is a wider and more voluminous structure, which can be concrete, plastic or metal. Its depth is chosen in such a way that the pipes entering it are at a considerable distance from the bottom. This makes it possible to periodically clean the well from sediments accumulated at its bottom and allows the well to be filled with sewage. From the collector tank, water can be pumped out by a pump or go by gravity to designated places.

By creating a drainage system around the house in accordance with all the rules, you will get rid of the detrimental effect of excessive dampness affecting the foundation and recessed rooms of the house.

From this article, you will learn the features of such a design as a drainage system around the house: a drainage device at the foundation of the house, the rules for performing this procedure and the requirements for storm sewers. You will be able to study in detail the technology of creating a wall-type drainage system, as well as get acquainted with the prices for this type of work performed by turnkey specialists.

Do not confuse the process of arranging drainage around the house with your own hands with waterproofing. These two concepts are incompatible, but both technologies are not mutually exclusive. In combination, they allow you to create a reliable protection of the base of a residential building from moisture.

Device

The organization of a drainage system for a house, or, as it is also called, a drainage system, makes it possible to reduce the water level in a suburban area or completely eliminate excess liquid.

Note! The danger of flooding is likely both from the outside and from the inside. Outside, flood waters and accumulations of precipitation can affect the base. From the inside, groundwater causes flooding if it lies close to the surface. In this case, waterproofing protection is useful.

Even high-quality waterproofing is not able to properly protect the foundation of a residential building, its basement and basement from water penetration for a long time. Long-term exposure to moisture eventually exposes weaknesses and gaps in the waterproofing. It is simply impossible to do without foundation drainage at a high level of groundwater.

The feasibility of drainage around the house

Constant exposure to moisture can not only destroy the concrete foundation of the building, but also provoke the appearance of other negative impact factors. These factors include putrefactive processes, the development of fungi and other microorganisms that can live in the supporting structures of the building.

This result can be caused both by the lack of drainage of the foundation of the house, and by errors made during calculations or direct installation of the system. Even if such a problem already exists, this does not mean that the situation cannot be corrected. The advantage of such a system is that the installation of wall foundation drainage can be carried out even after all construction work on the construction of the building has already been completed.

Installation of drainage systems for private houses is advisable in such cases:

1. The site has a lowland location - the lower the territory is located in relation to the surrounding landscape, the more urgent the problem of the lack of a drainage system becomes.
2. The quality of the soil does not allow moisture to be absorbed into the ground in a natural way - loamy and clayey soil options slow down the processes of natural decrease in the water level in the area.
3. The area is characterized by a high level of precipitation - storm water is collected on the surface in such an amount that they simply do not have time to be discharged by natural means.
4. Groundwater is located too close to the surface.

Note! Drainage schemes around the housemust take into account the presence of waterproof coatings on the site. These surfaces include paths, driveways, and recreational areas that have asphalt or paved tiling.

The main types of drainage and storm water around the house

Properly making drainage around the house, as well as installing a storm system in the garden, is quite easy. The main thing is:

• perform calculations correctly;
• select the type of system that meets the conditions of the site;
• select materials that are suitable for technical and operational characteristics;
• carry out drainage of the foundation and blind areas in accordance with the requirements and technology.

Choosing a Foundation Drainage System

The type of system is selected based on what conditions the territory has. The more acute the problem with the flooding of the site, the more decisive the protection measures must be.

The main types of surface systems:

• storm drain or storm sewer - installation of surface drainage around the house. Its main advantage lies in a simple and affordable technology. Most of the work is carried out quickly and without the help of specialists. The disadvantages of this system include limited capabilities. The storm drain is capable of removing only melt and storm moisture; it cannot cope with the problem of groundwater;
• linear system - covers a wide range of tasks, is able to drain the territory of the entire summer cottage and the area around the building. Water in this case moves through the channels and enters the well for drainage. In most cases, channels have a linear type of placement. Special gratings are put on top;
• dot system - a do-it-yourself variant of foundation drainage, which allows you to quickly remove excess moisture from locally located sources. These sources include water taps and downpipes. Point-type drainage is covered with decorative metal gratings. They prevent clogging of the system with debris and fallen leaves. From each water intake point, drainage pipes are laid around the house with their own hands in accordance with the technology, which involves the subsequent connection of water transfer routes to a single highway leading to the well.

Helpful advice! Point and line systems can be combined to provide a combined drainage option that improves the drainage efficiency of the area around the building.

Features of a high-quality drainage device around the house: the cost of work

The price of drainage around the turnkey house, of course, is much higher than the cost of similar work done by one's own hands. But in this case you get:

• guaranteed quality of the result;
• full compliance with all technological standards;
• accurate calculation of all parameters and the right choice of materials;
• no errors fatal to the system;
• high speed organization of turnkey foundation drainage.

The cost of drainage in the area around the house(storm drain):

To the indicated cost of drainage around the house, the price of installing each additional storm water inlet, if necessary, is added. It is 1500 rubles / piece.

In order to make a more accurate calculation of the cost, it is necessary to take into account the number of risers leading from the roof (for each riser should be purchased), as well as the length of the building along the perimeter (based on this indicator, the molding of the system is determined).

Helpful advice! If you want to organize a system for the removal of storm water, it is enough to limit yourself to shallow storm water (up to 1 m). It can only function in the warm season. A system with a depth level below freezing of the soil (more than 1.5 m) will cope with rain and melt water. This type can be used in combination with cable heated gutter systems.

Common foundation and garden drainage schemes

All drainage systems around the house can be divided into two groups according to the type of location:

• drainage at the foundation of the building;
• garden drainage systems.

For the organization of storm and drainage structures for garden plots, the following schemes are used:

• "herringbone";
• "partial sample";
• "parallel placement".

In garden plots, systems of closed or open drainage are installed. In other cases, other foundation drainage schemes are used: wall and ring.

The wall drainage layout implies digging in and arranging a clay castle through the entire foundation around the perimeter. The width of this element is 0.5-1 m. This type of scheme is recommended to be used if the building has a basement or is equipped with a basement. At the same time, the depth of drainage around the house determines the level of placement of floors. Pipes are placed approximately 25-30 cm lower than the floor surface.

The drainage system at the base of the house consists of:

• sand cushion;
• geotextile film;
• pipeline (inner diameter 100-200 mm);
• interlayers of sand, which has a draining purpose;
• soil;
• layers of clay (can be replaced with a waterproof film coating).

The ring drainage scheme around the house involves laying trenches with an indent from the building by 1.5-3 m. To prevent moisture from penetrating into the area located between the base of the house and the trench, you need to organize a clay castle.

Helpful advice! Select the depth of the trenches taking into account the placement of the base of the foundation. You need to step back from it by 0.5 m. Thanks to this, you exclude the possibility of flooding the basement, as well as basements.

Drainage device around the house: the price of the services of specialists in working with the foundation

As in the case of storm drains, the prices for organizing a drainage system at the foundation depend not only on the length of the building along the perimeter, but also on the level of deepening of the drainage structure.

Arrangement of the ringdrainage around the house: the cost of workFull construction:

Installation for this system of a collector well, equipped with a pumping station, will cost about 35,000 rubles. Provided that the diameter of the product is 1 m.

The calculation of the exact cost of turnkey work is carried out taking into account the depth of the foundation of the house (the level of penetration depends on this indicator), as well as the length of the building along the perimeter (also consider the necessary indentation from the wall).

Arrangement of walldrainage around the house: the price of workFull construction:

When installing drainage around the house according to this scheme, the same collector wells are used as in the previous case.

Drainage system around the house: do-it-yourself drainage device

To arrange the drainage of the blind area around the house or other similar system, soil analysis is carried out at the initial stage. As a rule, such data become known even during the construction of the foundation part of the building. For this, several wells (4-5 wells) are drilled in the construction zone to a depth of 5 m and the terrain is studied.

On clayey and loamy soil types, moisture from precipitation and snowmelt accumulates in the upper layer of the soil. A similar situation occurs if groundwater passes at a depth of less than 2.5 m from the surface.

Helpful advice! If you are not confident in your own abilities, entrust the choice of a drainage system to professionals. In case of problems, specialists will be able to correct the causes of their occurrence.

Planningdrainage around the house: how to do it rightfreezing depth calculation:

The table shows the maximum freezing limit. In practice, this figure is usually less by about 20-30%.

Organization of wall drainage around the house: how to do the installation correctly

Before installing a drainage system around the house with your own hands, you need to do a number of preparatory work, since this design will be adjacent to the foundation part of the building. Preparation includes:

1. Treatment of the base with a bituminous priming compound from the outside.
2. Application over the dried surface of bituminous mastic.
3. Sticking reinforcing mesh with a mesh size of 2x2 mm.
4. Drying the surface during the day.
5. Application of the second layer of bituminous mastic.

The specific gravity of the soil can affect the pipe laying pattern. Data on the main categories of soils are placed in the table.

Distances between drains fordo-it-yourself drainage devices around the house:

Helpful advice! When drawing up a pipeline laying plan, consider not only the specific gravity, but also the type of soil. On sandy soils, the optimal pipe laying step is no more than 50 m, on clay soils - 10 m, on loamy soils - 20 m.

Technology for creating drainage around the house: how to do the main array of work

The procedure for creating a foundation drainage with your own hands on clay soils:

• at the lowest point of the site, a collector well is being installed;
• a trench is formed along the foundation with a slope to the water collector, which is regulated using the building level;
• a sand cushion is created at the bottom of the trenches 5 cm thick;
• it is laid on top of the sand cushion with a margin so that the ends of the canvas can be overlapped;
• formation of a gravel cushion 10 cm thick;

• installation of pipes at an angle of 2 °;
• docking of pipeline elements with the help of corner connectors and adapters;
• inspection wells are placed at the corners of the structure. From them to the drainage well, a pipeline is laid with a slope;
• formation of an embankment of gravel 10 cm thick;
• wrapping pipes with gravel with the free ends of a geotextile fabric, which is fixed with strong synthetic ropes;
• filling trenches with earth or sand (depending on the type of soil on the site).

Arrangement of ring drainage around the house with your own hands: how to install the system

For the installation of this system, it is required to make a closed system of trenches around the structure, taking into account the fact that their depth should exceed the level of the foundation by 0.5 m.

Helpful advice! Use perforated pipes. The trenches must be removed from the base of the house by 5-8 m, otherwise the soil around the structure will begin to sag.

For drainage system

The trenches in this case should also be located with a slope to the well to collect water. The minimum slope indicator is 2-3 cm / linear meter. Adding sand or removing it, this indicator can be controlled.

Step-by-step technology for arranging drainage around the foundation:

1. Sand is poured at the bottom of the trench and a geotextile fabric is laid with a margin (the free edges must be wrapped on the walls of the trench).
2. A crushed stone pillow 10 cm thick is formed.
3. A pipeline is being installed with a diameter of elements of 10 cm or more with an inclination angle of 2 °.
4. Manholes are being installed in those places where the pipes turn. On straight sections, wells can be installed at a distance of 12 m from each other.
5. An embankment is made of gravel or crushed stone (layer thickness 20-30 cm).
6. Wrapping is carried out with the free edges of the geotextile fabric.
7. The trenches are filled to the top with sand and earth.

Do-it-yourself organization of drainage around the house without pipes

The process of arranging drainage around the house can do without the use of pipes and even rubble. Alternative types of drainage:

1. Backfill system - improvised materials (fragments of concrete, broken bricks, stones, pieces of hardened cement) and necessarily geotextile fabric are used as a filler for trenches.
2. Drainage based on plastic bottles - material with twisted caps is laid longitudinally in trenches, covered with turf and earth.
3. Fascine system - bundles of brushwood with a diameter of 30 cm are used, tied with nylon cords or wire.
4. Rod drainage - at the bottom of the trenches, strut sticks are installed, where small young trees or long knots are then laid.
5. Plank system - boards are placed at the bottom of the trenches in such a way that a triangle is obtained in cross section, directed with the apex down. Before filling with earth on the boards, it is recommended to lay moss as a filter.

However, such systems can behave unpredictably and it is impossible to predict the service life of drainage from improvised materials.

Use the video below for a more detailed look at the classic do-it-yourself drainage technology around the house. Only in this case you will be able to achieve a really high-quality, effective and durable result. By adhering to the technology requirements, you will get a reliable drainage system, even if you create a crushed stone trench system without piping.

For comfortable living, preventing damage and increasing the service life, buildings are equipped with a drainage system. And in some cases, taking into account the climatic conditions and the state of groundwater at the construction sites, it is impossible to do without such work. How to make drainage around a private house, what types of structures are used, as well as the procedure for performing work, we will now consider.

Drainage systems are engineering communications located outside buildings, designed to remove moisture from the foundation or from the site, which can manifest itself as a result of exposure to groundwater, as well as flood water and precipitation.

Conditions under which drainage must be done:

• The soil in the building site is characterized by a high content of clayey rocks.
• High rainfall in the construction region.
• The terrain on the site, as well as its location, contribute to the accumulation of moisture and do not allow it to go beyond it.
• High ground water level.
• Nearby buildings have heavily buried foundations.

If groundwater is close to the surface for the improvement of the adjacent territory, as well as creating favorable conditions for growing plants, drainage is arranged around the entire site.

Types of systems

Structures are divided according to the method of their installation and the intake of excess water, as well as location options in relation to buildings. Depending on the purpose of the system, the type of foundations of buildings on the site, drainage communications are available in two versions.

1. Directly at the wall of the building - the drainage is mounted if the building has a deep foundation in the ground. This is due to the need to equip a large basement or basement. This design prevents moisture from entering, therefore, flooding of the premises and the subsequent destruction of the building. Installation is carried out below the level of the base of the foundation.

If the drainage system around the house is located at the walls, this does not mean that external waterproofing is not necessary. Preparatory work and installation of drainage systems should be carried out simultaneously with the start of construction. Therefore, when digging a pit or trench, you must immediately make a reserve, according to the width of the intended communications.

If the soil is characterized by a large amount and a high level of groundwater, and the building is located on a slab foundation, layered drainage is arranged in the form of additional crushed stone bedding. In this case, the moisture under the building will be discharged to the wall drainage system.

2. Indented from the walls - they arrange communications if the buildings stand on a shallow foundation and the composition of the soil does not allow water to quickly absorb and leave. Therefore, the drainage of the house is laid at a shallow depth. As a rule, communications are laid behind the foundation blind area or, depending on the characteristics of the site, at a distance of up to three meters from the building.

According to the installation method, drainage systems for a private house are divided into two types:

1. Closed - with this method, the storm channels are completely hidden and moisture enters them directly from the ground.
2. Open - an option when water penetrates into the system not only from the soil, but also flowing down its surface. In this case, the drainage channels can be open or protected by gratings. As a rule, such communications have a shallow occurrence. In addition to removing moisture from buildings, in this way it is possible to make drainage around the site if it is flooded or heavily swamped.

Structural elements and materials

Wells - perform a number of functions:

1. Collection and disposal of water.
2. Monitoring the working condition of structures.
3. Maintenance.
4. Settling filter.

Depending on the purpose, their diameter can be from 30 centimeters to one meter. For deep drainage, concrete rings or ready-made plastic wells of industrial production are used. You can use plastic pipes of large diameter.

• Trays - used for open drainage, they are made of concrete and plastic, and also laid out with brick or stone.
• Lattices - for a drain of water and protection of trays from hit of large subjects. They can be made of plastic, concrete or cast iron.
• Pipes and connecting elements - use products into which moisture can penetrate through their walls. Usually, a corrugated plastic is used.

If it is not possible to use special pipes (drains), the question arises, how to make a drainage pipe yourself? To do this, you can take an asbestos or ordinary plastic pipe with a diameter of 70 to 150 millimeters, depending on the size of the communications and the planned volume of water. Using a drill or a knife, make holes in it, the size of which should not exceed the diameter of the rubble.

• Crushed stone - for backfilling and the formation of a drainage layer, material of a large fraction is used, made of hard rock.
• Sand - used as backfill and compaction of the bottom of the trench. Pure material of river origin should be used.

For proper operation of communications, each layer of backfill must be at least 15 centimeters.

• Geotextiles are used to reduce the ingress of clay deposits and soil into the structure.
• Profiled two-layer membrane or geocomposite - the use of a membrane makes it possible to reduce the cost of natural bulk materials and facilitates the installation process.
• Waterproofing materials are used when the structure is located directly at buildings, for preparing walls located below ground level and for processing trays if they are made of concrete.
• Pumps - if it is not possible to divert water by gravity.

It should be noted that, depending on the relief on the site and the requirements for the method of moisture removal, the drainage of a country house may simultaneously include structural elements that are present in closed and open types of drainage.

Equipment and tools for the production of works

• Construction level, for determining the angle of inclination, as well as the upper and lower points. If communications are of short length and do not occupy a significant area, a water level can be used.
• Bayonet and shovel shovels, in case of a large amount of work and the possibility of application, you can additionally involve an excavator.
• Construction wheelbarrow and buckets for the delivery of bulk materials.
• Drill - useful if you need to make drains yourself.
• Trowel and trough, for preparing the solution.
• A set of tools for the bricklayer when it is necessary to perform the installation of bricks or stones.
• Roulette.

Materials, as well as tools, should be selected taking into account the structure to be arranged, as well as the working conditions.

When is the best time to install a drainage system

In order to save time, as well as optimize the cost of installing utilities, you should take care of the drainage system in advance and carry out installation in parallel with the main construction work on the construction of the building. For high-quality performance of work, drainage around the house should be carried out in the warm season, during the period of water recession and the least precipitation.

Procedure

To correctly determine what type of drainage around the house to apply on the site, the following points must be taken into account and analyzed:

• Relief - what is the difference from the top to the bottom point, as well as the presence of depressions on the surface of the territory being developed.
• The depth of the foundation foundations and the level of groundwater.
• Soil type.
• The possibility and method of removing moisture outside the site.

Before starting work, it is necessary to determine exactly where and what structural elements will be located. For this, a drainage scheme around the house is being developed. If you have experience and knowledge in this area, you can develop it yourself, otherwise you can order it from specialists.

The following points should be indicated on the diagram:

• The length and depth of the communications in each segment and in general the entire structure.
• Places of installation of wells, their purpose.
• The top and bottom point, in the design.
• Planned direction of moisture movement.
• Places of turns and connection options between elements.

General installation rules:

• The angle of inclination of the drains should be at least 1 centimeter per 1 running meter.
• With a deep location of the structure, the leveling and drainage layer must pass water well.
• The drainage well is installed at the lowest point.
• Inspection wells are mounted at every turn and at the convergence of drains, and with a large length of communications, in straight sections, they should be located at a distance not exceeding 20 meters.

Stages of installation work

Surface drainage around the house is mounted no closer than the foundation blind area is located.

1. Marking where the structural elements will be located and pass.
2. Section of a trench. The depth is calculated taking into account the dimensions of the tray or storm water inlet, as well as taking into account the thickness of the protective grid. In addition, ten centimeters must be added for the construction of a concrete base.
3. Leveling the slope and compacting the bottom of the trench.
4. Installation of a concrete base under the tray.
5. Installation of a storm water inlet or tray.
6. The device of the well (sand trap), at the lowest point of the structure.
7. Installation of ratchets on the tray.
8. Backfilling, gaps between the tray and the soil.

Wall-mounted, closed design option

The first point with the markup is the same as in the case of the surface location. If in a country house the drainage system was not installed initially during construction, then a trench must be dug directly along the plane of the wall, below the level of contact between the foundation and the ground by 30–50 centimeters.

1. At each corner of the building, places are dug for wells and connected by a trench.
2. The walls are cleaned of soil and the waterproofing coating is restored using bituminous mastic.
3. A leveling layer of sand is poured and compacted. The thickness should be at least ten centimeters.
4. Geotextile material is being laid, with a margin of 60 centimeters on each side.
5. Crushed stone is laid, to a height of 10-15 cm.
6. Drains consisting of pipes are mounted.
7. Wells are being installed. Their upper level should protrude above the ground surface.
8. Pipes run into wells. After this, the holes into which the pipes enter must be hermetically sealed.
9. Crushed stone is poured onto the drains, to a height of up to 20 centimeters.
10. Close the pipe and crushed stone with the edges of the material and fix them with a tape that is not subject to decay.
11. The trench is backfilled and levelled.

It is important to control that the slope angle during excavation and leveling of trenches should always be directed towards the bottom point.

Is drainage necessary if the soil is dry and absorbs water well, and the house is not subject to flooding? Here you should know that the terrain and soil composition, as a rule, do not change, but no one is immune from climatic changes, for example, heavy rainfall. This is especially important in the spring when the snow melts. Therefore, it is better to prevent possible troubles.