Overlapping between the 1st and 2nd floor of the house. Wooden floor on the second floor. Technical requirements. Installation and processing. Sound insulation with insulation. Step by step instructions for building a floor


If we consider the question of how to make a floor on the second floor, you must first decide what functions it will perform? If this attic space will be used only for storing various things, then in this case the difference is only in the coating - it is enough to use draft boards as flooring. The cross section of the beams can also be reduced, since the loads in the attic will be much less than in the room that is used as a living space. Such a floor will be much cheaper and will allow you to move safely. As for other insulation, steam and moisture protection operations, they must be performed regardless of the operating conditions of the floor.

Types of floors

Interfloor overlapping in the house, as a rule, is wooden or concrete. In both cases, the work is quite complex and requires necessary knowledge. It should be remembered that haste or an attempt to save on this design can lead to sad consequences and costly rework. For this reason, if the overlap of the second floor is supposed to be done independently, it is necessary to draw up detailed plan work, determine the materials and their quantity.

When choosing a material, consider the main specifications that the gender should have.

Primarily:

  • must be strong enough and safe in operation;
  • meet all technical requirements;
  • have protection against decay and fire;
  • provide heat retention and sound insulation.

Of course, you should not overload the floor with unnecessary structures, but at the same time it must meet all operational requirements.

Wooden floors

Regardless of the original plans for building a house in any case ceiling beams ceilings are present and, as a rule, they should be strong enough if the house is assembled according to all the rules.

The device of the floor of the second floor should begin with these beams. If the house is under construction and the project plans to use the second floor, it should be remembered that the size of the beams depends on the size of the span.

For example:

  • beam section 75 × 100 mm with a span of 2200 mm;
  • 100×175 mm or 125×200 mm with a span of 3200 mm

Sometimes boards are used that are stitched together, forming an imitation of a beam. But, as practice shows, in most cases beams of sizes 150 × 150 mm or 200 × 200 mm are used. The direction of laying the beams is chosen in the direction of the smallest distance between the walls. The beam with its ends must rest on the wall at least 90 mm. It is recommended to use beams from pine, as materials from this type of wood are light enough, but at the same time withstand heavy loads. In this case, the tree must be completely dry and of good quality.

The installation of the beam is carried out in pre-prepared recesses in brickwork or also in a bar. It should be remembered that the beams before installation must be treated with appropriate protective compounds. If the item is based on brick wall, in places of contact between wood and brick, it is necessary to lay a hydro insulating materials. If the house is wooden, in the recess in the wall where the beam will be installed, it is recommended to lay tow or other material with the same properties.

Next, a draft floor is nailed to the beams, which also serves as a draft ceiling. If for some reason the details are laid at a short distance, there are attempts to save on a draft board, and a finishing ceiling is immediately nailed to the beams. This should not be done, since the material used for the final filing is not always able to withstand the loads that occur after laying the insulation and protective components.

There is another option for installing a subfloor. To the beams on both sides along the entire length, a bar of 40 × 50 mm or 50 × 50 mm is attached, and already on these bars a draft floor is mounted in a size corresponding to the width between the beams.

A less common way is to make grooves in the beams into which subfloor boards are installed. With this option, the size of the beam must be selected taking into account the size of these grooves.

After laying the draft board, a thermal protective film should be laid (any type of this material is used). The film is laid between the beams so that its edges overlap the part itself. It is advisable to fix the film with a stapler. It should be remembered that the film is laid with the smooth side up, and the rough side down. Otherwise, it will not be able to perform its functions. As cheap materials in this case, you can use roofing felt or just rasters of clay and sand.

After the film is laid, the insulation is laid. As it can be used various materials. The most common is mineral wool. As for this product, regardless of advertising promises and advice from knowledgeable experts, it must be remembered that it is made on the basis of fiberglass, the binding element is phenolic resins. In any case, fumes will be present, and microscopic dust as well. In some cases, the space between the beams is covered with expanded clay, slag, sawdust, or foam is laid. If necessary, provide increased sound insulation, it is advisable to use penofol and sand. A layer of penofol is laid in the space between the beams and covered with a layer of sand about 5 cm.

By the way, in the old days, a mixture of earth with oak leaves- this is the most cheap way. In any case, it should be borne in mind that the insulation layer must be at least 50 mm, otherwise it will not perform its functions. If the premises of the second floor will be constantly heated and used as residential, the insulation in the interfloor ceiling can be excluded (it is enough to provide good sound insulation).

The next step will be laying another layer of film that acts as a vapor barrier. It can be laid directly on the insulation, but it is better if there is small space. Therefore, the film is attached directly to the beams.

After all operations, laying the floor on the second floor begins. For installation, use an edged board without a groove if the floor is supposed to be further covered with chipboard or other plates. Ideally, use floorboards with a groove. In this case, they fit tightly, without any gaps.

In order to save material, in some cases the boards are laid directly on the beams. But ideally, bars with a section of 50 × 50 mm should be laid on the beams at a distance, equal to the distance beams, and already laying the floor on them.

Concrete floor

Another construction of the second floor is the installation of the floor on concrete. If the ceiling is already mounted, alignment must be done. Those. a liquid solution is used to screed the base, while fiber is added to the solution to give strength.

When the screed is ready, proceed to the installation of the floor itself. Compared to wood flooring, concrete monolithic slab is stronger and more durable.

Installation should begin with markings, having previously determined what the height of the floors of the second floor will be in order to install the formwork. Direct installation of formwork is a rather laborious and crucial moment. It must be completely horizontal. Vertical racks, which will hold the entire structure must be strong enough to withstand the weight of the concrete for the period of its solidification.

After the formwork is installed in accordance with all calculations, reinforcement begins to be performed. For these purposes, reinforcement bars with a cross section of 12 mm are used. They must be linked together in such a way that squares are obtained. It is desirable that the size of the square be about 20 cm.

It is better to fill the ceiling with concrete in one step: this will ensure the uniformity of the structure and higher performance. For the preparation of concrete, it will be enough to use cement of the M400 brand, which is mixed with sand and fine gravel in a ratio of 1: 3. After pouring, air is removed from the concrete (a construction vibrator is suitable for this operation).

When perfect smooth screed can finish coating install the floor directly on the concrete, after laying the waterproofing material and the leveling base, which will also serve as a shock-absorbing pad. In some cases between concrete screed and boards lay logs to create or additional insulation or soundproofing. In this case, it is necessary to set the lags according to the level and provide between them and concrete base good waterproofing. Further laying of floorboards is carried out in the usual way. Those. a board is attached to the lags, and, if necessary, other coatings on it, depending on the interior.

How about a bathroom?

If it is planned to equip a bathroom and toilet on the second floor, it is necessary before pouring concrete floor provide places for communications, in particular sewer drains and pipes for water. If the floor covering of the second floor is wooden, it is necessary to take into account the loads that will act at the location of the bathroom.

The bathtub weighs about 200 kg, and the weight will double when filled with water. Accordingly, the usual load acting on wooden floors must be doubled. One way out is to increase the size of the section of the beams, and reduce the distance between them in the place of the proposed bathroom. Particular attention should be paid to moisture removal and additional protection wood to prevent the formation of mold and, as a result, rotting of wooden structures.

It is better to use a board on the floor from larch, elm or alder, since these types of wood, being in a humid environment, are only made stronger and more durable. If the bathroom has a shower, it will be necessary to drain the water, as a rule, in this case, a drain with a dry locking element is used. Installation must be carried out in such a way that drain ladder all the water that falls on the floor of the shower room was gone. Waterproofing materials should have high adhesion and have sufficient elasticity.

Additional work during installation

Common problem - creaking wooden floors. As a rule, this happens because the boards are attached to nails, and they loosen over time, thereby forming gaps between the boards and the joists, which is the cause of the squeak. To avoid this in the future, it is recommended to use screws instead of nails when laying the flooring.

Also, the creak can be on a concrete base. In this case, the gaps between the lags and the concrete base may be the cause. Do not rush or be lazy, you need to install the logs in such a way that they fit tightly on the concrete. If you ignore the recommendations, in the future a complex revision of the floor will be required, which is not always possible.

Another nuance that must be considered during installation is the stairway to the second floor. In this case, it all depends on how the premises of the second floor will be used. If it is just an attic, a small hatch is enough. If the room is residential, the staircase should be large sizes, and the parameters depend on the interior and the type of the staircase itself. But in both cases, the size should be convenient for use, regardless of how often it will be used or not.

Another of the openings that must be provided for when installing an interfloor ceiling is an opening for chimney. If the ceiling is concrete, it will be enough to mount an opening to fit the size of the chimney. With a wooden floor, there are some nuances. The stove and, accordingly, the chimney is a source of possible ignition, and for this reason it is necessary to take care of fire safety. The opening in this case should be larger than the size of the chimney itself.

So, as it is clear in the end, in any case, the exact observance of all technical recommendations will make it possible to make a high-quality and durable floor on the second floor.

Private low-rise construction in last years is becoming more and more popular.

country houses and country houses, erected with their own hands, occupy everything a large share in the total volume of housing commissioned.

The most demanded material in private construction is wood, due to its affordable cost and ease of processing. But not all individual developers have sufficient experience and knowledge to independently carry out the entire range of construction work. So, the question often arises of how to properly lay the floor of the second floor in compliance with all building codes and technologies.

Construction requirements for wooden floors

In order to mount a durable and safe wooden floor between the 1st and 2nd floors with your own hands, you must strictly comply with the technical requirements for them.

Thermal insulation layer


Floor insulation will improve temperature indicators in a room on the second floor

If a wooden floor will separate the upper and lower rooms with a temperature difference between them of more than 10 ° C, it will be necessary to build a heat-insulating layer.

This is necessary, for example, when arranging ceilings between the first floor and the underground, basement or between the first / second floor and an uninsulated attic.

Beam strength


Beams and ceilings must withstand up to 180 kg / sq.m of load

When constructing the floor of the second floor according to wooden beams should be given Special attention strength of load-bearing structures. The safety of the operation of the building depends on how durable the wooden beams of the floors are.

According to building codes for wooden low-rise buildings, the maximum load on the floors of the first floor should not exceed 210 kg per sq.m., the pressure on the wooden floor of the second floor should not exceed 180 kg / sq.m., and for attics and attics this figure should be less than 105 kg/sq.m.

Maximum deflection

In addition, building codes also impose requirements on the deflection of wooden floor beams. According to SNiP, this coefficient should not exceed 1 to 250. That is, the maximum deflection of wooden supporting structures during operation should be less than 4 mm per meter of beam length.

According to this standard, the deflection beam structure 4 m long in the center should not be more than 1.6 cm (4 m: 250 = 0.016 m). If it is planned to place massive furniture in the room and household appliances, flooring as flooring tiles etc., then the requirements for structural rigidity increase to 1 to 400.

That is, the deflection should not exceed 2.5 mm per meter. For non-residential attics and attic space a larger deflection coefficient is allowed - 1 to 200 (5 mm per 1 meter).

Soundproofing


Fifty-millimeter mineral wool will not only insulate the floor, but will also become a good sound insulator

According to building codes, the sound insulation threshold for interfloor floors of residential buildings should be 50 dB.

To ensure this requirement, it will be enough to cover the floor of the second floor under the finish coat with mineral wool 50 mm thick.


The length of the beam should be no more than 5 m

Maximum allowable length free sag of wooden beams should not exceed 5 m for interfloor and 6 m for attic floors. If the design length of the room is more than 5 m, it will be necessary to install an additional support under the bearing beam. The fact is that the optimal carrier length wooden structure is 4 m.

With a further increase in its length, the rigidity and strength of the supporting structure are sharply reduced and the requirements for the thickness of the beam section increase disproportionately. So, in order for the deflection indicators for an 8 m beam to “fit” into the SNiP standards, its thickness should be about 40 cm. For example: the same deflection indicator shows a 4 m beam with a cross section of only 15 x 15 cm.

Wood is a material quite vulnerable to external influences, primarily dampness and fire, therefore, before proceeding with the construction of load-bearing structures, all wooden elements should be treated with antiseptic materials and flame retardants.

Construction material

Before proceeding with the installation of the floor on the second floor on wooden beams, you should make a list of all the necessary materials. This will allow during work to avoid unforeseen downtime and delays caused by the need to purchase some building materials.

beams


A beam section of 15 x 15 will be enough

The basis of the entire structure of interfloor wooden floors is beams. They play the role load-bearing elements, and the strength of the structure depends on them. For them, a bar or gun carriage with a section of 15 x 15 cm, or 18 x 18 cm is usually taken.

This section is usually enough to provide sufficient rigidity for a specific load of 400 kg per sq.m. In this case, it is necessary to observe the parameters recommended by building codes: the span is 4 m, and the step between the beams is 60 cm. Based on these parameters, you can also calculate the required amount of timber.

Span length (mm)Beam cross section (mm)
1 2000 75×150
2 2500 100×150
3 3000 100×175
4 3500 125×175
5 4000 125×200
6 4500 150×200
7 5000 150×225

However, in the absence of a beam and small values ​​​​of the expected loads on the floor, it is quite possible to use boards 50 or 40 mm thick, knocked together in pairs and placed on the edge. This option is suitable for flooring in the attic or in a small country house.

For the first floor of a residential building, this option is not suitable due to the low bearing capacity of the boards: to ensure the necessary rigidity, the step between the plank beams will have to be significantly reduced, which will lead to unjustified waste of material.

The most commonly used material for beams is pine. it the best option according to the "price-quality" criterion: its wood is quite affordable and at the same time has good technical characteristics.

Bars made of wood of stronger species (larch, oak) can rarely be found on free sale, and their price is incomparably higher, and pine wood after appropriate treatment with antiseptics will not be inferior in terms of durability to the same larch.

When buying a bar, you should choose a material with dry wood. Otherwise, after mounting the beams, their deformation during the drying process is possible - bending and twisting.

Flooring


wooden flooring laid on the beams will be a rough base under flooring

Usually, the flooring of interfloor ceilings is made in two tiers: from below there are rough floors, on which insulation is laid, and from above - pre-finishing flooring, mounted on top of the bearing beams. A decorative floor covering is laid directly on it.

To determine the nature and amount of material for flooring, you should clearly consider the design of the floors.

In the device of the subfloor, either 5 x 6 cm bars stuffed onto the supporting beams or grooves made in the beams can be used as a support for the floorboards. The latter option is quite laborious, so most often 5 x 6 cm bars are used to create a support.

To calculate the required number of bars, it is enough to count the number of beams and multiply them by the length of each of them. The resulting footage (the total length of all beams) is multiplied by two more (since the bars will be stuffed on both sides of each beam).

A wide range of materials can be used for finishing flooring. It could be boardwalk, plywood, chipboard, MDF, OSB panels, etc. Each of these materials has its advantages and disadvantages, after reading which you can choose one of them. To calculate required amount material, it is enough to simply calculate the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room.

When purchasing building material you should always purchase it with a margin of 10 - 15%, since unforeseen material overruns are inevitable during construction.

This will save you from having to interrupt work and buy the missing part.

Impregnation


Antiseptic will extend the life of the tree

To maximize the service life of wooden structures, they must be treated with antiseptic materials.

It will also be useful to treat wood with fire retardants, which increase its fire safety.

To calculate the right amount impregnation, you should read the instructions for its use - it always indicates the approximate consumption of the mixture per sq.m.

Waterproofing

Since wood is afraid of moisture, waterproofing materials are always used in construction.

This can be rolled waterproofing used to create a water-repellent layer between wooden floor structures and the finish coat, or between wood and brick (stone, cinder block, etc.).

To protect the tree from moisture, you can also apply coating waterproofing created on the basis of polymers or liquid bitumens.

Heat and sound insulation

If it is necessary to create a barrier to noise or cold, insulating materials are used in the construction of floors. Most often, for these purposes, use a minplate or foam. Their total number in area should be approximately equal to the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room. For more information about floor insulation, see this video:

Expanded clay or ordinary slag mixed with sawdust can also be used as an insulating material.

Fastening materials

For fixing wooden floor elements, you should purchase self-tapping screws, nails, steel corners, anchor bolts, etc. consumable. When purchasing screws and nails, attention should be paid to their length.

According to the standards for a strong connection, the nail should be 2/3 longer than the thickness of the attached element (board, bar). For self-tapping screws and screws, this figure can be reduced to 50%.

Those. for reliable fastening to the beam of the “magpie” board, you will need 120 mm nails or 80 mm self-tapping screws.

After everything necessary materials purchased, and all preparations are completed, you can proceed directly to construction work. The construction of interfloor floors can be divided into several main stages.


The part of the beam inserted into the wall is wrapped with three layers of waterproofing material

Installation bearing beams most often produced at the stage of erecting the walls of the building. Before laying the bearing bars, their surface is treated with all the necessary impregnations.

Then their ends are cut at an angle of 60 ° and that part of them that will be walled up in the wall is wrapped in 2-3 layers of rolled waterproofing.

The ends of the beams are usually also coated with waterproofing compounds, but some experts advise leaving them open to allow the moisture contained in the wood to freely escape.

The depth of the beams to the depth of the wall should be at least 15 cm. The step of laying the beams is usually taken at 0.6 m, but depending on the expected load on the floors, as well as on the thickness of the beam section, this indicator can be reduced or increased.

The choice of the interval between the beams is also influenced by the technical indicators of the material used for the finished floor.

If the top flooring is supposed to be made of inch boards, plywood or chipboard, then the distance between the beams should not exceed half a meter, otherwise the floors will sag when walking. For more information about the installation of beams, see this video:


Floor joists must lie in the same plane

The installation of load-bearing beams starts from the two extreme walls, while the beams should be located at a distance of 5 - 10 cm. After installing the two extreme beams, we mount the rest, observing the required interval.

When laying beams, special attention should be paid to the horizontal slope: all floor beams must lie in the same plane. To do this, a cutting board is placed on the edge between the two extreme bars, or the twine is pulled tightly.

If the base on which the bars are laid is uneven, then for leveling horizontal level under the ends of the beams, mortgages should be installed. For mortgages, material is used that is resistant to decay and physical stress - metal plates, pieces of tiles, etc.

It is not recommended to use wooden wedges to adjust the level of the beams, as they can quickly rot, which will cause the lowering of individual floor beams and the curvature of the floor line.

The support bars are attached to the wall with anchor bolts and steel corners.

Fastening of support bars

After all the floor beams are exposed, bars with a section of 5 x 6 cm are attached to them (the so-called "cranial" bars). They serve as a support for laying the subfloor and are attached along the entire length of the bearing beam, on both sides.

They should be nailed in such a way that their bottom is flush with the bottom of the beams.


Most often, the draft floor is made from an inch board.

For the device of the subfloor, edged boards are taken and laid across the beams on the support bars. Since the distance between the beams usually does not exceed 0.6 - 0.8 m, then an inch or thirty board is quite suitable for subfloors: the pressure on them will be limited only by the weight of the insulation.

Also for these purposes, you can use a cut slab. You can also combine the draft floors of the second floor with the finished ceilings of the first floor or basement. In this case, edged boards are hemmed from below, from the side of the first floor to the beams. More about draft field see in this video:

Thermal insulation flooring

After the installation of subfloors, compartments are formed between the beams, which, if necessary, can be filled with heat-insulating materials.

To do this, a hydro or vapor barrier (roofing material, isospan, etc.) is laid on top of the subfloor boards, and then mineral wool, polystyrene, slag with sawdust, etc. are laid.

In this case, the entire space between the bars should be densely filled. We fill the gaps between the beams and foam sheets with sealant.

It is also desirable to lay waterproofing on top of the insulation, which will protect it from moisture leaks from above.

The final stage will be the flooring of the finishing floors, which is mounted on top of the supporting beams with self-tapping screws or nails.

To do this, the material (boards, OSB, plywood) is cut in such a way that their joint falls in the middle of the timber. The finished floor is the basis for finish coat- laminate, linoleum, parquet.

All photos from the article

It should be noted right away that do-it-yourself wooden floors between floors can be installed not only for wooden buildings, but also for brick, block and concrete structures. Moreover, this applies not only to the floors of the premises, but also to basements, floors and attics, where you simply cannot do without such a device, only technical support here already may differ slightly in design.

But, let's talk about this in more detail, and we also want to invite you to watch the video in this article.

Submitted technical requirements

  • If the structure of the wooden floor of the second floor will separate rooms with a temperature difference of more than 10⁰ (Celsius, Kelvin, Réaumur), then in this case you will have to install thermal insulation- this is most clearly reflected in the arrangement of the attic and the floor in the steam room, where you simply cannot do without it.
  • In addition, beams of any material must have sufficient strength to withstand the load not only from their own mass, but also from the weight of the entire building structure, furniture, various equipment and people, and in addition, have a margin of safety. So, the minimum design data of the ultimate load for interfloor and basement floor should be from 210 kg / m 2, and for the attic from 105 kg / m 2.

  • In addition, for wooden beams there are limit values ​​for deflection, where between floors or on the basement it is no more than 1/250, that is, 4 mm per linear meter, so for a 4-meter beam in the center this value will be 4/250=0.016m=16 mm. In cases where laying is provided on the floor ceramic tiles, then this value decreases to 1/400 - 2.5 mm per linear meter, and for attics, on the contrary, it increases - 1/200 or 5 mm per linear meter.
  • It is also very important to pay attention to soundproofing.- the noise penetration power threshold should not exceed 40-50 dB for residential premises (the material for this is usually a heater and most often it is mineral wool). But sound should not penetrate not only from another room - this also includes sewage and water supply pipes.
  • When calculating the wooden floor between floors, the length of the wooden beams is also taken into account, where for all rooms it should not exceed 5m, and for attics - 6m. In cases where the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room is larger, then additional supports are installed under the beams.

Note. We should not forget that wood is a combustible material and, moreover, subject to decay, fungus and mold under certain conditions.
Therefore, when installing interfloor overlap on wooden beams should be treated with fire-resistant and bactericidal compounds (often all these qualities are in the same solution).

Mounting and processing

Now let's figure out how to make a wooden floor between floors, which will be a device made of a beam frame (beam or log), which is sheathed on both sides (bottom and top) with boards or sheets such as plywood, fiberboard, chipboard and OSB.

For insulation and soundproofing, insulation for wooden floors is laid between the beams, which can be any mineral wool (glass wool, stone wool, slag wool), foam plastic, expanded clay or sawdust impregnated with some kind of fire-resistant bactericidal composition.

In cases where the overlap is done in baths, then great attention should be paid to waterproofing - as a rule, these are polyethylene or polypropylene vapor-permeable films that allow moisture to pass through only in one direction. Such a film consists of many funnel-shaped cones that absorb and pass water molecules through only from the wide (rough) side, while moisture does not pass from the other (smooth) side.

Therefore, such waterproofing is mounted with a rough side to the heater from the side of the steam room, and vice versa in the room located above.

Length Beam cross section
With a span of 600 cm With a span of 1000 cm
2000 75×100 75×150
2500 75×150 100×150
3000 75×200 100×175
3500 100×150 125×175
4000 100×175 125×200
4500 100×200 150×200
5000 125×200 150×225
5500 150×200 150×250

In the table above, you see the calculations of the cross-section of pine beams based on the specific floor load of 400 kg / m 2. But do not forget that, despite the increase in thickness, beams 10m long need additional support. It is not necessary to put it under each profile - you can simply install a transverse beam of the same section and support it with one or two pillars.

Attic and interfloor ceilings

Installation of lumber floors can be carried out using boards, plywood, OSB (OSB), LSP and fiberboard, which are laid on top of the beams, and on the bottom of the cranial bars or quarters cut out in the beams (the price of the material is approximately the same).

The bottom flooring performs the function of a subfloor on which insulation is laid, but it can also be attached from below directly to the beams and then it will simultaneously play a role draft ceiling.

The distance between frame bars or logs to a large extent depends on the thickness of the boards or panels that serve as a subfloor and bear a dynamic load (walking or rearranging furniture). For example, if you use floorboards 25 mm thick, then for attic floor you will need a step of 500 mm, and for a living room no more than 400 mm, therefore, it is advisable to use thicker floor boards - 40-50 mm.

For a wooden floor on a basement or foundation grillage, a cranial bar is necessary in any case, since thanks to it, you can insulate the floor, that is, it will fix the panels or boards on which the insulation is laid.

Most often, such a subfloor is made of log rolling, slab or unedged and unplaned boards, which are 50 × 50 mm, 50 × 40 mm or 40 × 40 mm and in some cases are not even nailed or screwed on with screws.

Note!
You can cut a quarter in the beams, but it will take much longer.

For warming rough hearth they mainly use expanded clay, slag, ear sand, chips and sawdust treated with an antiseptic and fire retardant composition, as well as thick mineral wool(100 mm or more). Do not forget that the soil can give up its dampness, so dense polyethylene or roofing material is laid from below, and if this is a steam room, then the same protection will be needed from above.

Soundproofing with insulation

In cases where wooden floors between floors in brick house(block, stone, wooden) is made for the finished floor of the living room, then the temperature of the latter should not be lower than the air temperature in the room by more than 2⁰C. This parameter does not apply to a steam bath, since it is simply impossible to withstand it there (except with a floor heating system).

Therefore, to equip a thermal barrier, which will simultaneously perform the function of sound insulation, modern synthetic and mineral materials that are not afraid of damage by various microorganisms.

Note. As we have already mentioned, most often various mineral wool is used for insulation and sound insulation.
But for a bath it is better not to use slag wool - it is made from melted blast-furnace slag and contains small particles of iron.
Under the influence of moisture, they rust, and the wool settles, which leads to an increase in the thermal conductivity of the material.

In most cases, if the premises do not have high humidity, roofing material is used as waterproofing, tightly laying it in two layers, but you can also use dense polyethylene for this (not to be confused with cellophane!).

Then, a heater is laid on the underlying film, and you need to make sure that there are no gaps left, and if it is polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam, then all the gaps are blown out with mounting foam.

Conclusion

Equipping the floor of the first floor on wooden beams, you win in some respects. Firstly, this design is lightweight, secondly, it will cost much less than concrete slabs, and thirdly, wood is an environmentally friendly material.

Wooden houses at one time were very popular, then with the development of modern building materials, they faded into the background a little. But today wooden buildings regain former glory. This is due to the fact that only in a wooden house the atmosphere is filled with harmony and tranquility. Finishing in such a house can be made of any material. But this is not very advisable, since the walls made of logs look much more attractive and more natural than paint or wallpaper.

But the issue of surface finish will depend only on personal taste preferences. As for the wooden floor of the second floor, it is also made of beams. There can be no other option. Reinforced concrete slabs are not laid on wooden walls. AT ready-made the entire structure is made of natural material- tree.

Wooden interfloor ceiling of the first floor

wooden floor between the first and second floors must meet certain established requirements:

  1. The floor structure must be very strong and withstand the expected loads from above, it is recommended to calculate the magnitude of the loads with a margin.
  2. Wooden floor beams must be rigid for arranging the floor on the second floor and the ceiling on the first.
  3. The ceiling should have the same service life as the entire wooden house as a whole. Reliable overlap during the construction phase will ensure safety and prevent repairs.
  4. For the floor, it is very important to equip additional heat and sound insulation.

Wooden beams as a floor perform all the basic functions, and they differ from reinforced concrete slabs easier installation. human strength quite enough, no need to use heavy machinery. Using beams, you can significantly reduce the overall load on the foundation. The advantages of wooden floors include low price. And when proper processing and the installation of such a design will last more than a dozen years.

The disadvantages of wood include such a detrimental process as decay. In addition, the disadvantages of wood products is high flammability in case of fire. In order to minimize the likelihood of such processes, it is very important to prepare the beams immediately before installation work. Best for covering conifers tree. In order to avoid deflection of the beam, it is not recommended to make a span of more than 5 m. If the span is larger, it is necessary to make additional supports in the form of columns or crossbars.

Calculation of the floor structure in a wooden house

It is from how correctly the calculation of the expected load will be carried out that you can create a high-quality robust design, which will perform its main functions and last a very long time.

Most often, the beams in the room are laid in the direction of the shortest wall. This makes it possible to make the span minimal. The step between the beams will depend primarily on the size of the section. On average, this size is 1 meter. Making the distance less is not worth it, as this will only increase the consumption of material and the complexity of the work.

It is better to give preference to beams with a large section than to make an overlap with a small step and a weak overlap.

The main dimensions of the beams for a certain span size:

  • 2200 mm span - section 75 * 100 mm;
  • 3200 mm span - section 100*175 mm or 125*200 mm;
  • 500 mm span - section 150 * 225 mm.

If the overlap is made between the first floor and the attic, then the step between the material should be the same, but the cross section of the beams can be chosen much smaller. This is due to the fact that the load in the attic will be much less than on the full floor.

Tools for arranging interfloor overlapping

All work can be done independently. To do this, you need to prepare tools and materials such as:

  • drill;
  • saw;
  • hatchet (if necessary, large and small);
  • chisel;
  • a hammer;
  • nails, screws;
  • construction level;
  • fasteners.

As for building material, wood should be High Quality and well dried. Before carrying out all work, it is necessary to separate element treat with a product that will prevent decay and make the wood less flammable.

Wood floor device

Do-it-yourself overlapping is quite simple, the main thing is to follow all the recommendations and technologies. The beams are laid on the walls with their ends. In order for them to be securely fixed, special connectors are cut out in the wall under right size sections. Laying a beam in the connector, it is covered with tow on all sides. This will prevent further formation of cold bridges. If the beam has a section size smaller than the walls, then the recess can not be made to the full depth.

The second option for attaching the ceiling to the wall is " dovetail". In order to strengthen such a mount, fasteners in the form of a metal bracket are additionally used. Such fastening is most often used if the walls of the house are made of timber. AT wooden house the crossbar with the beam at the same level can be fixed with a clamp.

It is worth highlighting the most common type of fastening a beam to a crossbar - this is the use of cranial bars. Such bars are attached to the crossbar, and a beam is already attached to them. It is recommended to use bars with a section of 50 * 50 mm.

For panel house beams are laid in a slightly different way. Special nests are made in the wall, into which the ends of the floor elements are laid. The optimal depth of the nest is 150-200 mm, while the width must correspond to the dimensions of the section. In addition, it is necessary to leave a gap of 10 mm on each side. As in the first case, the ends of the materials must be wrapped with tow before laying in the nests.

Metal anchors can also be used to fasten the elements. With this fastening, the end of the beam will not go into the wall.

In order to make the ceiling of the first floor, it is necessary to roll forward. This stage of work can be carried out using a wide variety of materials.

In the most common version, cranial bars are nailed along the side of the beam. Such bars should have a section of 40 * 40 or 50 * 50 mm. They should not protrude below the main beam. It is on them that even boards will subsequently be attached, the thickness of which should be within 10-25 mm. In order to knock out the ceiling, you can use sheets of plywood. Using sheet material, you can get a perfectly flat ceiling. The minimum thickness of plywood in this case must be at least 8 mm. It is very important to control that the edges of the sheets lie exactly in the middle of the beam.

Instead of using cranial bars, special grooves can be made in the beams. In order to use this method, the beam section must be thought out in advance.

As a flooring option, the lower part of the floor elements can remain open; for this, the cranial elements are not nailed flush, but slightly higher. Thus, the flooring is carried out between the beams.

After the roll is done, you can start laying the floor of the second floor. If instead of the second floor there is an attic, then the execution of the subfloor is sufficient. If there is a room on the second floor, then the floor must be made of quality material. wooden boards will be laid directly on the logs.

Floor insulation

In a wooden house it is very important to do good thermal insulation. This also needs to be done with interfloor overlap. Thermal insulation materials today are presented in very a wide range. It is on how correctly the material is selected and correctly laid that the thermal insulation qualities of the room will depend. This is especially important if an attic is supposed instead of a second full-fledged floor. Therefore, in order to prevent heat from leaving the room, it is necessary to lay thermal insulation between the beams.

Mineral wool would be a good option.

She has very high technical qualities but not very good soundproof material. In addition, after a certain period of operation, its structure changes, and microparticles can be released into the environment.

Particular attention should be paid to the sound insulation of the interfloor overlap.

When laying any material, it is worth controlling its location. There should be no gaps between the lags and the insulator. Sheet materials must be cut to size roll materials tucked in a bit.

If the ceiling is installed between the first floor and the attic, it is imperative to lay a vapor barrier. Deal with it polyethylene film. In order for condensate to escape from under the film faster, it is necessary to leave ventilation gaps.

Wooden floors between floors are suitable for almost all types of buildings. They are compatible with wood, brick and concrete buildings. Structures are mounted not only between floors, but also in attic and basements. In these rooms you can’t do without them, but the arrangement of wooden floors between floors differs from basement structures.

Features of wooden floors

The flooring device includes, for the most part, only wooden elements. However, absolutely any materials are used to finish the ceiling and floor. The main thing is to correctly install the structure itself.

One of the most important functions of the floor is soundproofing. It is very easy to attach any insulating materials to a tree, including slabs. On top, you can easily mount any modern finish.

A very important advantage of a wooden structure is its low weight. Wooden floor elements do not exert significant pressure on the base of the building. Therefore, they are often used in houses with a light foundation.

Installation, carried out according to the rules, contributes to the natural air exchange of the room. At the same time, the heat and sound insulation of the rooms is not disturbed.

In general, wooden structures are very durable. They allow in short term create lightweight and durable floors.

Technical requirements for floors

Interfloor structures consist of the following elements:

  • beams;
  • bars;
  • board layer;
  • heat and sound insulating layer;
  • waterproofing film;
  • finishing board;
  • ventilation slot;
  • plinth.

Note! Wood belongs to the class of flammable materials. In addition, it is prone to putrefaction, fungi and various bacteria. Therefore, floor materials must be processed before installation. Minimum set impregnation consists of flame retardants and antiseptics.

Installation and processing

To make the right wooden floor between floors with your own hands, you need to deal with the device of its design. It consists of a beam frame and sheathing made of board or sheet chip materials.

The role of the heat-insulating and sound-proofing layer is performed by the rolled material. Most often, glass wool, mineral wool or similar insulators are used for this. Sometimes expanded clay or polystyrene is used. However, the first makes the structure very heavy, and the second is highly flammable.

For wooden floors between floors in saunas and baths, it is very important to properly arrange waterproofing. In this case, vapor-tight films that allow moisture to pass in only one direction are optimal. The material consists of expanding cones that absorb moisture only from the porous side. No moisture is released from the reverse side of the cover.

Important! Vapor-proof coatings are laid with the porous side to the insulation, "face" to the room. And for the room above, the film is mounted vice versa.

floor beams

To figure out how to make a wooden floor between floors, you need to know the features of the structure frame. Its basis is wooden bars. Most often, elements of 15-25 cm in height and 5-15 in thickness are used. A distance of up to 1 m is made between the beams, depending on the section of the elements.

Note! The greater the load on the floor, the greater the cross section of the beams should be.

The supporting ends are made from 150 mm in length, they are laid in a "beacon" way. First, the installation of the extreme beams is carried out, and intermediate ones are laid between them. Evenness of laying is checked with a level. The middle beams are laid according to the template. For leveling, you can use various resin linings from scraps.

Important! It is impossible to use hewn, pointed chips to level the beams.

The bars are laid with the same step around the entire perimeter, strictly parallel. They are treated before laying. antiseptic impregnations and wrapped in 2-3 layers of roofing material. For brick and block buildings, floor beams are coated with bitumen from the ends. This technique protects the wood from moisture. For walls with a thickness of 2.5 bricks, air vents are left for ventilation. And at the junction of wood with walls, roofing material is laid under the beams.

Installation of rolling

To cover the floor between floors, various wood materials are used, including boards, plywood and particle boards.

The bottom flooring acts as a draft floor in the ceiling, it is on it that they lay thermal insulation material. It can also be mounted directly on the beams from below. In this case, it performs the function of a draft ceiling, on which you can immediately mount finishing material. A floor made using a second-rate board will cost several times less.

The distance from the beams or logs is determined by the thickness of the boards that cover the rough coating. They bear the brunt of the burden. So, if boards of 2 and a half centimeters are used indoors, for attic spaces a step of 50 cm is needed, and for residential - 40 cm. Therefore, it is recommended to use a thick board of 4-5 cm for flooring.

Ways of laying the basement

For the wooden construction of the base, a cranial bar is required. It will insulate the floor. After all, it is on it that panels or a board covering the insulation are mounted.

A more popular option is a rough layer of rolling or unedged board. The material is mounted on wooden block With square section and a side of 5 or 4 cm. It is best to attach the cranial beam to the logs with self-tapping screws, but you can also use nails.

Advice! You can mount the board not on the cranial bar, but in the groove (quarter). It must be cut with chisels or power tools. It will take longer.

The draft floor of the basement is insulated with bulk materials, including sand. Often, sawdust impregnated with an antiseptic or mineral wool from 10 cm in thickness is used. To protect wood structures, a waterproofing layer is covered from below. Most practical option- bituminous roll materials. For rooms in contact with moisture, waterproofing is also mounted from above.

Warming and soundproofing

The heat-insulating layer is very important in the floor structure: it performs the function of sound insulation. Therefore, modern synthetic and mineral heaters are used for its arrangement. They are not affected by bacteria and fungi, so they have a longer service life.

Mineral wool is very popular. However, for baths and saunas, some rolled materials are contraindicated. In such rooms it is not recommended to use slag wool, as it contains metal suspensions. These particles rust from moisture, and the cotton wool sags, losing its properties.

Most often, in rooms with normal humidity, roofing material is used for waterproofing. Bituminous materials are low cost and excellent performance characteristics. Dense polyethylene is laid on top of the roofing material.

A heat-insulating material is mounted on top of the film. It is very important that there are no gaps between the layers of wool or foam, otherwise there will be low heat and sound insulation in the room. If foam-based plate heaters are used, the gaps are sealed with mounting foam.

By mounting the floor of the second and first floors on wooden beams, you can save a lot. Such structures will cost several times cheaper than concrete, besides, you can handle the installation yourself.

During work, certain rules must be observed. For example, it is necessary to use beams of a certain section, and the step should be adjusted taking into account the floor area.