How to make a flat floor How to make a flat floor: types of screed Make a screed by level

Nowadays, the answer to the question of why it is necessary to level the floor will be obvious: a flat floor is the main component successful repair the whole room, best foundation for flooring with laminate, parquet or ceramic tiles.

The main component of a successful renovation in the house is a flat floor.

To level the floor, you must first make an even screed. To do this, you need a concrete solution, this species work can be done independently.

Per last years self-leveling concrete floors, despite the complexity and duration of the process, have gained great popularity. Their main task is to withstand a certain load.

Kinds

The material is classified according to the type of binder. The most common types are concrete and cement-sand. They are used to repair the floor in any premises and buildings. For concrete materials use a concrete solution, which is laid on a layer of gravel or rubble, and for cement-sand - a mixture of cement, sand and water.

Anhydride bonds are made from gypsum (a binder), sand, water, and gravel. They are characterized great strength, lack of deformation, but at the same time, the reaction of water-soluble gypsum with moisture, which can create small problems.

Depending on the type of construction, floor screeds are rigid, separating, floating.

1. Magnesite materials are based on caustic magnesite, bischofite solution, as well as organic or mineral fillers.
2. Self-leveling floors - a novelty in the construction industry. They are made on the basis of mixtures of cement, sand, aggregates and plasticizers. In addition, screeds are mosaic, asphalt and epoxy.

According to the type of construction can be divided into:

• rigid, laid directly on the floor;
• separating, which are laid on a special layer that prevents the adhesion of the screed to the ceiling;
• "floating", which cover heat and sound insulating materials.

Preparatory work

Before you start making a screed, you need to prepare all the tools: a building level, a rule, a trowel, a mortar container, an electric drill with a mixer nozzle, boards or metal profiles.

How to do everything right? First, the surface must be carefully swept, cleaned of debris and dust, primed. Ideally, dust is best removed with a special vacuum cleaner. Any delamination of the surface must be cleaned, and cracks must be covered with a thick solution. We need a list the following tools and materials:

1. Building level.
2. Rule.
3. Master OK.
4. Mortar (concrete).
5. Solution container.
6. Electric drill with mixer attachment.
7. Boards or metal profiles.

It is necessary to waterproof all walls and partitions that the screed will touch, that is, protect them from moisture absorption. To do this, a strip of roofing material is glued to the walls so that the upper edge of the tape protrudes 15 cm above the level. Next, using the level, we make the markup that defines the level. If you only have a water level, then mark the desired same height on the wall in several places and use straight lines to connect the marks.

When installing “beacons”, the distance between them should be no more than 1.5 cm.

To make it even, you need to install beacons, which you can use ordinary boards or metal profiles attached to the surface with screws or thick mortar. The distance between the "beacons" should be no more than 1.5 cm.

After installing the beacons, they proceed directly to the preparation of the solution in order to make a self-leveling mixture.

1. Using a bucket or basin, we prepare a solution for the material, mixing, for example, sand and cement with an electric drill with a special mixer nozzle. In terms of density, the solution should resemble a tough dough. It is necessary to prepare the solution immediately before use, because after 1.5 hours it becomes unusable.
2. It is recommended to start laying from the highest point, that is, from the largest distance between the base and the mark. The solution is laid in such a way that the surface of the "beacons" is closed, but not more than 1 cm. Then it is leveled, rolled with a spiked roller in order to avoid unevenness and air gaps. Excess solution is cut off by the rule, applying it to the "beacons".
3. In order for the screed to have sufficient strength, its thickness must be at least 4-5 cm. An important condition successful work above the screed is the temperature, which should not exceed 20 ° C, and the absence of drafts. It is recommended to start and finish the screed of one level or one room on the same day.

Having finished the main screed indoors big size don't forget to fill expansion joints(small gaps between the parts of the screed), and also moisten the already finished screed with water so that it does not crack. After a couple of days, you can take out the "beacons", and fill the resulting voids with a solution.

It is necessary to level the floor, then for this you need to do floor screed. It should be as even as possible. On a flat screed, you can lay any type of flooring without problems and, moreover, install any furniture. And then after all, the unevenness is not to anyone's liking. It is leveled with cement mortar using a hydraulic level, with a spatula, with beacons installed over the entire area, and a roller is needed to smooth the surface.

How to make a screed straight

The initial task is to find a high point on the surface and, orienting along it, make a screed. For a more even floor screed, marks are made on the sides of the wall, previously accurately calculated. This solution will help to create a flat surface. Before leveling the floor with cement mortar, it is necessary to apply to the surface, which will help to do it better, in terms of bonding the mortar to the surface to be leveled.

They use a primer to apply, this will speed up the process and help distribute the primer mixture more evenly. After drying, beacons are installed at the level at which it will be floor offset- a guideline for the height of the screed being made. Lighthouses are installed according to the level and mounted on cement mortar. To do this, you need to decompose the solution at a distance of 80 cm. As a result, it becomes possible to more accurately level the floor surface with a screed. The work is painstaking, it will take time, but it's worth it.

The base for the lighthouses has dried up, now you can level the floor with a screed. We knead a solution of medium density for the convenience of leveling the screed. The mortar will consist of cement, sand and water. The process, leveling, starts from the far corner. The solution is poured over an area of ​​up to 1 square meter, the surface is leveled with a spatula, the voids are filled, and the excess is removed. The work is hard and complex, requires care and correct execution. After one square of the floor surface has been leveled, it is necessary to continue working on the same principle.

The concrete subfloor is currently perhaps the most widespread both in residential and industrial construction. It is suitable for almost any finish coatings or it can, after appropriate processing, be operated independently. Its main advantages, subject to the pouring technology, are high strength, resistance to destruction, and durability of use. It is not surprising that when conducting private construction or when repairing an apartment, in the vast majority of cases, homeowners stop at just such a technology for arranging the floor.

Is it worth it to invite construction specialists, or concrete screed Is DIY flooring an affordable process for the average homeowner? This publication is devoted to the answers to these questions.

Types of concrete floor screeds

Concrete floor screeds may have different design, be performed using slightly different technologies and intended for different purposes.

• So, they can serve exclusively for leveling the floor, performed before installing the finish coating. Powerful couplers serve as the reliable basis in rooms where the increased mechanical loadings are provided. they can also perform the functions of providing the required thermal balance, acting, for example, as powerful heat accumulators in "warm floor" systems. Screeds often close communication systems. Can they used and in order to create a certain slope in those rooms where it is necessary.
• Concrete screeds differ in the number of layers:

- They can be single-layer, that is, they can be poured simultaneously to the entire estimated height. This is usually used in industrial, utility or auxiliary non-residential premises, where there are no increased requirements for evenness of the floor.

- Multilayer screeds are poured in several stages. Usually the first layer serves as a rough base, and the top one creates flat surface for further flooring work. This approach is also used in cases where the total thickness of the required screed reaches too large sizes, and it is more expedient to perform it in layers.

• Screeds also differ in the degree of adhesion to the base:

- Bonded ties have direct contact with the base. Of course, with this pouring technology, maximum homogeneity of materials and their high adhesion to each other should be ensured. Such coatings are characterized by good strength qualities in terms of withstanding high mechanical loads. However, the state of the surface layer will largely depend on the moisture level of the substrate. Such screeds are mainly performed on dry floor slabs on the floors of buildings.

- In the case when the base does not have sufficient waterproofing, a sleep screed is used on the separating layer. A layer of waterproofing material (roofing material, polymer film, coating composition) becomes an obstacle to the penetration of moisture from below, and the screed itself has no contact with the base. With this technology, the layer of the poured solution cannot be less than 30 mm and, as a rule, needs to be reinforced.

A similar technology is often used when arranging a screed on the ground, for example, in garages, a barn, basements, on the first floors of houses without basements. They also resort to it in rooms with increased level humidity.

- Where enhanced thermal insulation of the floor is required or there is a need for sound insulation, floating screeds are used. In this case, the concrete solution is poured over a layer of insulation of one type or another. The screed turns into a completely independent design- a slab that is not connected either with the base or with the walls of the room. The minimum thickness of the fill in this case is at least 50 mm, and the reinforcement of the screed becomes a prerequisite.

The humidity of such a screed is absolutely independent of the state of the base, a good insulating effect is achieved. Disadvantages - excessively large thickness, and therefore - the load on the floor. Typically, such screeds are used only on the first floors of residential or outbuildings, especially if pouring is carried out on the ground.

• Screeds can be made with a homogeneous solution or include certain fillers:

— Addition of cement-sand mortar of expanded polystyrene chips significantly increases the thermal insulation properties of the coating.

Typically, such screeds require a second, reinforcing and leveling layer.

- Where screeds of large thickness or with increased thermal insulation qualities are required, expanded clay is added to the concrete solution.

Expanded clay concrete has sufficient strength, but for the flooring of some coatings, it will also be necessary to fill the front layer from a conventional solution. But ceramic tiles it will be possible to lay directly on such a base.

Good ones performance show screeds with micro-reinforcement fiberglass. This technology allows you to dramatically increase the strength of the coating to mechanical stress, to stretching, bending.

Such screeds usually do not give tons of cracks, are less prone to shrinkage during solidification, they have less dust formation. They are great for underfloor heating systems.

• floors can be performed according to the classical, "wet" technology, or semi-dry. Semi-dry screed is a relatively new thing, and not all more ready to put it to the test. In addition, it requires special professionalism in the preparation of the mortar mixture, in laying out, compacting and leveling the mortar. Most home builders prefer to use the proven "wet" technology, which will be discussed later in the article. However, if you are limited on time, consider inviting semi-dry screed laying experts. When choosing a contractor, pay attention to the technology used - the presence of a mechanized supply of the composition will ensure cleanliness in the apartment. For example, laying a semi-dry screed along latest technology the company EUROSTROI 21 VEK is engaged in (web-site of the company www.prestigehouse.ru).

Solutions for pouring concrete screed

It is quite natural that, if necessary, pour a concrete screed, first of all, you will need to decide on the type of solution. There are several options in this matter.

According to the existing canons of SNiP, the minimum strength of an ordinary concrete screed, regardless of the type of its further lining, should be at least M-150 (the coating can withstand a force of 150 kg / cm²). If used self-levelling jellied composition, here the requirements are even higher - from M-200. In accordance with these requirements, the solution should be selected.

1. The "classic" concrete mortar used for pouring a conventional floor screed is a cement-sand mixture in a ratio of 1: 3. This “recipe” is time-tested and fully justifies itself. However, there are several nuances, without which you can easily spoil the future screed:

• For the preparation of concrete, you can not use the usual "washed" river sand, not passed special processing. The hardened surface will not be durable, it will begin to crumble, crumble and crack over time. The fact is that grains of sand have outlines smoothed out from prolonged exposure to water, not providing proper clutch. In this regard, quarry sand is much better, with its faceted grains of sand irregular shape. True, when choosing, you need to carefully look so that it does not come across a large number clay inclusions - this will also reduce the strength of the screed.

The presence of a small amount of gravel component of the fine fraction will not affect the strength properties of the screed. However, if a flat surface is required, it will be necessary to sift the sand through a sieve.

• A very important condition for the strength and durability of the poured screed is the optimally selected amount of water. It is no secret that some novice home builders, in an effort to make it easier for themselves to pour and level concrete, use excess amounts of water, getting semi-liquid, easy spreading solution . By doing this, they lay a "time bomb" - at the output, the screed will not have the required qualities.

Firstly, an excessively liquid solution will definitely give a strong shrinkage during hardening. A flat surface, in accordance with the set level, in this case should not be expected. And secondly, the violation of the cement-water balance will necessarily reduce the strength properties of the hardened concrete. The surface is loose, unbound, with increased dust formation.

There are, of course, specially the amount of water in the concrete solution, but they are usually followed by technologists of enterprises for the production reinforced concrete structures and large mortar units. In home construction, they often rely on own experience, intuition and common sense. In addition, it is very difficult to accurately calculate the amount of water due to the fact that it largely depends on the moisture content of the filler. Sand can be wet, heavy - and this is also water, which will be involved in the process of preparing the solution.

Ideally, the concrete solution should be dense, but plastic enough, so that when it is poured and leveled, no air voids remain in the thickness of the floor. You can roughly focus on the following ratio - a liter of water per five kilograms of a cement-sand dry mixture.

It is very difficult to mix the screed mortar by hand, using a shovel. It is better to use a concrete mixer for this or construction mixer enough high power. First, dry ingredients are mixed in the desired ratio (it is possible with a little moisture), and then water is added very carefully, in portions.

An important condition for the quality of the future concrete screed is the purity of the water. It is forbidden to use process water containing fats, oils, residues of petroleum products, etc. Also, dirty, oily containers should not be used to carry water to the place of concrete mixing.

2. A modern range of building materials on sale can significantly simplify the process of pouring the screed. For these purposes, ready-made dry building mixes can be used.

Compared to using the usual cement-sand mixture, this technology has a number of advantages:

• In terms of strength and other performance indicators, screeds made of ready mixes, are in no way inferior ordinary concrete, and may even exceed it in a number of parameters.
• To prepare the solution does not need a powerful technique or heavy manual labor- a mixer or even a powerful electric drill (perforator) with an appropriate nozzle is enough.
• In principle, there are no problems with the dosage of the components - everything is already provided by the manufacturer, and the master can only clearly follow the instructions for preparing the solution.
• Many mortars prepared from such mixtures are significantly lighter, which reduces the load on the ceiling, reduces transportation costs and facilitates the lifting of materials to the floors.

• It is possible to select desired composition under specific conditions operation. So, there are solutions for rough or leveling screeds, for the "warm floor" system and for rooms with high humidity. Special plasticizers or microfibers added to their composition not only increase the strength characteristics of the coating, but also reduce the time for complete solidification of the screed, reducing the overall duration of construction work.
• What is very important for beginners is that working with such compositions is simple and does not require particularly high skills. The main thing is to follow the recommendations on pouring technology, which are necessarily attached to any batch of material.

All this will be true only if a high-quality dry mix is ​​purchased. Alas, there are a lot of fakes or low-grade mixtures on the building materials market in this segment. It is best to choose compositions from reputable manufacturers, be sure to check the certificate so as not to run into counterfeit products. It is also important to check the shelf life of the material - it is limited, and the expired mixture can significantly lose its quality.

The only drawback of this approach to pouring the screed is that the price for it can turn out to be slightly higher than with self-manufacturing solution. Well, you have to pay for convenience and quality.

Prices for various types of screeds and self-leveling floors

Screeds and self-leveling floors

Preparing the surface for pouring concrete screed

The surface for pouring the screed is prepared in different ways, based on the conditions:

• If the floor will be laid on the ground, for example, in a private house without a basement or basement, then the work is carried out in next sequence:

- The soil is selected to a depth of 500 mm.

A pillow of sand is poured, 100 mm thick, carefully rammed. A gravel layer is poured over it in the same way.

– A rough concrete pour is made with the addition of expanded clay to a height of 150 — 200 mm - for warming the floor surface.

- After the base has solidified, it must waterproofed- roofing felt or dense plastic wrap to prevent ground moisture from entering from below. waterproofing material must come out on the walls height, slightly greater than the height of the planned screed. If necessary, another layer of insulation can be poured from above, and then a reinforced finishing screed can be poured.

• In apartments, first of all, it is necessary to remove the old screed. This is done for several reasons:

- Firstly, old coupler does not guarantee integrity, as it can peel off, crack, and these deformations will be transferred to the newly poured layer.

- Secondly, do not forget about the maximum permissible loads on floor slabs. So, in serial high-rise buildings old building permissible load is about 400 kg per square meter - static and 150 kg - dynamic. And the weight of one square meter of concrete screed, 50 mm thick, approaches 100 kg. Therefore, all work related to the thickening of the screed will have to be coordinated with design organizations. And it is far from certain that such permission will be obtained.

- And thirdly, the height of the ceilings in the apartments is usually not so significant that you can afford to greatly raise the level of the floor.

The old screed is dismantled with a puncher, but very carefully to prevent destruction or damage to the floor slab. The remains of chipped concrete are removed, and then a thorough cleaning and dedusting of the surface is carried out.

• If a connected screed is planned, then it is necessary to carefully clean the existing recesses, cut cracks or crevices to a width of at least 5 mm so that the concrete solution can freely penetrate into them during pouring.
• If the screed is floating or on a separating layer, then all flaws must be repaired immediately. You can’t leave voids under the waterproofing layer - condensation can accumulate there, and these areas of high humidity are likely to become a “problem place”.

Defects are sealed with a repair compound, epoxy putty or ordinary concrete mortar. In case of large defects, mounting foam can sometimes be used.

The corners between the walls and the floor are especially carefully checked and repaired - water from the concrete solution when pouring the screed can penetrate deep into the ceiling or even leak to the neighbors below.

• Then, in any case, the surface of the overlap should be treated with a penetrating primer. Such a measure will additionally remove dust from the surface of the slab, and improve its adhesion to the poured concrete. In addition, the overlap will not actively absorb moisture from the solution. This is extremely important. Lack of water in the wet concrete layer adjacent to the base will result in incomplete maturation. cement stone, the screed will flake off or collapse under even not the most significant loads.

The soil is poured over the surface in strips and evenly distributed with a roller. AT hard-to-reach places, for example, in the corners, it is better to use a brush.

• Elastic glued along the perimeter of the walls damper tape. It will become a compensator for the expansion of the concrete screed, which will prevent its deformation or cracking. In addition, the screed must under no circumstances come into contact with vertical structures, be it walls, partitions or columns.

• If the screed is on the separating layer, then at first the entire surface of the overlap is covered with a dense polyethylene film, at least 0.2 mm thick. The strips are overlapped, not less than 100 mm. Joints must be glued with waterproof construction tape. You need to try very carefully to lay the film in the corners so that strong jams and folds do not form - there may be air “pockets” left. The edges of the film on the walls should be 5 ÷ 10 mm higher than the planned screed - they will then be easy to cut off.

After the polyethylene is laid, the damper tape is glued - just as mentioned above.

Beacon system and reinforcement

In order to achieve the horizontality of the screed and its required height, it is necessary to create a system of beacons, along which the concrete solution will be leveled.

Zero Level Definition

It is very fortunate if the farm has or has the opportunity to take it from friends. In this case, the work will be much simpler - it will be much easier to beat off the horizontal stripes on the walls and control the level of the guides.

If this is not possible, then it is no worse to set beacons with the help of water and ordinary building level.

The water level consists of two cylindrical transparent vessels with the same scale applied, connected by a long elastic thin hose. According to the physical law of communicating vessels, the liquid level in them is always at the same height from the horizon. Thus, by making one mark at a certain level, it can be transferred with high accuracy to other surfaces within the length of the flexible hose.

Markup begins by determining the zero level of the future screed. To do this, first of all, you need to draw a base horizontal line. This is done as follows:

• The estimated highest corner of the room is visually determined. A mark is made on the wall in this corner at an arbitrary height. It is better, of course, to make it so that it is most convenient to work, for example, one and a half meters from the floor.

• With the help of a water level, this mark is transferred to all walls of the room. The distance between the risks should allow them to be connected with a line using the existing ruler (you can use a long building level or a clean rule).
• The drawn line should pass along the entire perimeter of the room and close at one point - this will indicate the correctness of the measurements.
• Measurements are made from the applied baseline to the floor surface. Measurement points are usually every 0, 5 m. be sure to ensure that the measurement is carried out strictly vertically. The obtained values ​​\u200b\u200bmust be written down (on a piece of paper or even on the wall with a pencil).

The point of measurement that will give the minimum height of this distance will correspond to the highest section of the base.

• From the value obtained at the highest point, the thickness of the future screed is subtracted (minimum 30 mm). For example, minimum height- 1420 mm. Subtract the thickness of the screed (30 mm) and get 1390 mm. This is the distance from the plotted reference line to the zero level.
• Now it will be easy to draw the entire zero level line around the perimeter of the room - for this you need to measure the value obtained from the base down, mark the points and connect them with a straight line. To simplify the work, you can make a rail - a template and quickly transfer marks from the baseline. After connecting them, you get the main line of the zero level.
• It is rare in construction practice, but it still happens when in the center of the room the floor level is slightly higher than near the walls. This must be checked by pulling the cord at zero level between opposite walls and measuring the height from it to the floor. Such a check should be carried out in several places. In the case when it is revealed that there is a hill in the center, it will be necessary to shift the zero level upwards in order to ensure the minimum allowable screed thickness over the entire area of ​​​​the room.

Marking for the beacon system

It is advisable to make markings for beacons and guides immediately after repulsing the zero level, guided by the following principles:

• The orientation of the guides should correspond to the intended direction of the most convenient pouring of the screed. This is usually done along the room, from the far wall to the exit.
• It happens that due to the complexity of the configuration of the room, it will be necessary to change the direction of the fill in a certain area. This should also be immediately taken into account when marking the lines of beacons.
• The distance between the wall and the parallel guide closest to it is usually kept no more than 250 - 300 mm. If left large, a poorly leveled area or even a dip may form along the wall, which will require additional intervention later.

• The distances between adjacent guides are not particularly regulated. The main thing is that the rule for leveling, installed on them, protrudes on both sides by about 200 mm. The guides should not be spaced too much - quite large gaps may appear in the center between them after shrinkage of the hardening concrete.
• I distribute the guide lines along the width of the room, usually at the same distance from one another.

How beacons and guides are set at zero level

Previously, various available materials were used as guides for the beacon system, for example, wooden blocks or unnecessary pipes. Today, metal profiles are mainly used for these purposes.

• So, galvanized U-shaped profiles from drywall systems show themselves very well. They are resistant to deflection and create a reliable "rail" for rule work.
• Plaster profiles are very popular, although they are not without some drawbacks. They have a stiffener, however, in long sections, when working with a rule, they can still bend. Therefore, when using them, the number of support points must be increased.
• In some cases, you can do without the use of profiles.

There are many ways to install a beacon, and it is impossible to consider everything. Let's stop only on some of them.

• One of the most accurate and simple - using self-tapping screws.

- At the far end of the room at a distance of 250 - 300 mm from the corner between opposite walls, a strong cord (for example, a fishing line or a thick nylon thread) is pulled strictly at zero level. It is important to pull it to the maximum so that there is no sagging in the center.

- At the intersection of the line of the stretched cord with the line closest to the wall, guiding to semi drilled a hole where a plastic dowel is hammered and a self-tapping screw is screwed in. Using a screwdriver, it is screwed in such a way that the upper edge of its cap exactly coincides with the zero level.

- A similar operation is repeated in the opposite, closest to the exit, side of the room.

- Two self-tapping screws that define the guide line are interconnected by a tightly stretched cord, so that it runs along the top of their caps.

- On this segment, mark and drill holes for dowels, distributing them evenly so that an interval of 350 ÷ 400 mm is maintained between them.

- Self-tapping screws are screwed into the dowels until their caps match the stretched cord. Be sure to check with the help of the building level - if necessary, you can make the necessary adjustments.

- In the same way, a line of self-tapping screws is made on the opposite guide, and then on the intermediate ones. In this case, the check should be carried out in all directions - longitudinal, transverse and diagonally.

- After the same zero level has been reached along all lines, the stretched cords are removed. Prepare a thick concrete solution. It is laid out in small slides along the line of screwed screws. Then a U-shaped profile is put on top and pressed into the solution. The transverse flange of the profile should rest against the head of the screw. It is important that the profile “sat down” evenly on both sides, without distortions.

- After the solution sets and securely fixes the profiles in the installed position, you can proceed to pouring the screed.

With plaster profiles, it turns out to be somewhat more difficult - it is more difficult to fix them on the heads of self-tapping screws. For these purposes, special fasteners can be used - " eared"Which are put on self-tapping screws, and the side shelves of the profile are crimped with their petals.

Video: setting beacons with self-tapping screws and fasteners - " eared»

Another subtlety - plaster profiles also have their own height, and this must also be taken into account when setting self-tapping screws to the zero level.

In addition, much more solution will be required for fixing - to the point that I resort to laying out even a solid shaft, into which a profile is embedded with an emphasis on the caps of self-tapping screws.

• Some craftsmen are used to doing without metal profiles at all.

— The exposed self-tapping beacons are tied with a thin wire, thereby creating a kind of reinforcing cage. Then, a solution is laid out along the entire line in a slightly excess amount, so that the resulting shaft is slightly above the zero level.

- When the solution begins to set, form a guide plane. Using the rule, the upper edge of this shaft is compared and smoothed to the heads of the screws.

- After solidification, excellent guides will be obtained, along which it is quite possible to work with the rule, and then they will enter the structure of the flooded screed.

• If the screed is laid on the wall, then the self-tapping method becomes inapplicable - it is impossible to break the tightness of the film, and in addition, there should not be a rigid adhesion of the new screed to the base. In this case, you will have to tinker more, laying out the slides of the solution and accurately inserting the guides at the zero level along the stretched cords.

To speed up the readiness of the beacon system, tile glue is often used instead of the usual mortar - its curing time is much shorter. But gypsum compositions are unacceptable. Firstly, they practically do not shrink, unlike cement ones. Secondly, at gypsum compositions completely different indicators of water absorption, adhesion, strength, plasticity, etc. It can be stated with absolute certainty that there will be tons of cracks in the locations of the beacons on the screed.

The nuances of reinforcing the screed

Of course, this measure is useful, especially with thick screeds. Used for this, most often, metal grid from galvanized steel wire with cells from 50 to 100 mm - it can be purchased at ready-made in shops. Only here, when placing it, many people make a serious mistake.

If you look at numerous photographs on the Internet, you can see a grid laid directly on a floor slab or on a waterproofing layer. There are many doubts about the usefulness of such reinforcement. Ideally, for the reinforcing belt to play its role, it should be placed in the thickness of the poured mortar, approximately in the middle of the height of the screed.

To do this, you can purchase special polymer coasters. However, it will not be difficult to make wire supports or even lift the mesh onto linings from pieces of broken tiles or fragments of an old concrete screed. Wooden linings should never be used.

Obviously, it is necessary to carry out the installation of a reinforcing lattice before setting up the guides. Most often, the installation of the system of beacons and fittings is carried out in parallel, and the grid can also be fixed on those hills of cement into which metal profiles are embedded.

Filling the screed

Oddly enough, but the process of pouring the screed itself looks like a series of all technological operations, probably the easiest. If everyone preparatory work done correctly, then this stage of complexity will not present.

• For normal pouring and hardening of the screed, the optimum temperature is from 15 to 25 degrees. It is allowed to carry out work with more than low temperatures(but not lower than +5), but the concrete maturation period will increase significantly. In too hot weather It's also better to refrain from filling - = upper layer can quickly dry out and crack. Does not like screed and drafts, although fully accessible fresh air cannot be covered.
• It is best, of course, to work together - one is preparing the concrete solution, and the second is directly pouring and leveling the screed. The technology of mixing the solution has already been described above.
• Work is carried out from the far corner of the room, gradually moving towards the exit. It is necessary to try to complete the filling within one working day - so the screed will be as uniform and durable as possible. If for some reason this is not possible, then the floor surface is pre-divided into sections (they are called fill cards) with the installation of jumpers between them.
• lays out in excess between the guides, so that its layer is 15 - 20 mm above the zero level. The initial distribution is carried out with a trowel or shovel. It is essential to ensure that there is no empty seats- this often happens under guides, under bars reinforcement or at the corners. It is necessary to achieve maximum compaction of the concrete solution, the release of air bubbles from it. To do this, you can carry out " bayonet" - the solution is pierced with a shovel or trowel before leveling.
• Next, on on the governing set rule. With translational and transverse zigzag movements, the solution is leveled to the level of the guides, so that a flat, smooth surface is obtained.

If the sand has not been sifted and large fragments (pebbles or shells) remain in it, then certain difficulties may arise - these inclusions can leave grooves and you will have to suffer a lot, removing them and smoothing out irregularities in order to bring the surface to an ideal state.

concrete mortar added as needed, so that the work goes on continuously. Excess mortar at the end of the filling of the room is carefully removed.

Video: a good example of pouring a screed over beacons

After the filling is completed, it is necessary provide for measures, excluding accidental entry into the premises of people or pets during the first 5 to 7 days. In order for the ripening process to proceed effectively, the surface must be moistened daily (starting from the second day) with water, keeping it moist. In case of strong heat, it makes sense to cover it with a film after the initial setting in order to avoid drying out.

If an ordinary sand-cement mortar was used, then the readiness of the screed with the operational one can be said no earlier than after 3 weeks. When using dry building mixtures terms may be different - they must be indicated in the attached instructions.

After the screed is ready, it is checked for evenness and surface quality. To do this, set the rule on the embedded guides and measure the resulting gap in the center. There is no escape from concrete shrinkage, and if the gap does not exceed 1 - 2 mm, then this will be within the normal range.

Often, a thin-layer composition is poured over the screed to make the surface perfectly smooth. However, this is a topic for separate consideration.

In this article on the site, we will look at how to properly make a floor screed with your own hands in an apartment, you can see step by step video pouring the screed, respectively, when self-fulfillment of all instructions, you can reduce the cost of the work performed as a whole.

Let's find out what a screed is - it is nothing more than a floor layer (base) on which the finishing flooring: laminate, linoleum, tiles, etc. The type and further operation of your flooring will depend on the quality of the screed.

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Types of screed

The floor screed in the apartment can be of two types:

1. Monolithic is cement-sand, gypsum (anhydrite), self-leveling, etc.
2. Dry or prefabricated from building boards.

The screed must be selected depending on the room. In rooms with high humidity (bathrooms and kitchens), gypsum and prefabricated screeds should not be used.

Preparatory work

After you have decided on what kind of floor screed you will do, you need to prepare the base for pouring. To do this, it is necessary to remove the old floor covering and all exfoliated parts of the base and preferably vacuum to remove dust from the surface.

Then we cover the base with a primer for better adhesion (Betokontakt is ideal, but cheaper is also possible).

For further work, you need to find the zero level. To do this, you will need a water level or a laser level.

We find the zero level immediately for all rooms of the apartment. To do this, at a height of about 1-1.5 m from the floor, put a mark in an arbitrary place and then transfer the marks to all the walls in the apartment using a water level.

You should have marks on all walls in all rooms. These marks must be connected with straight lines.

Now we measure the distance from the drawn level to the floor. This measurement must be made in several places on each wall. The smallest value will show that in this place the floor height is maximum.

From the smallest value, we subtract the thickness of the screed and measure the resulting length down from the previously drawn level. After connecting all the newly marked labels, a zero level will be obtained for all rooms. This is the level to which the future screed will be poured.

Please note that the thickness of the floor screed cannot be less than 30 mm (exception - leveling with self-leveling compounds or levelers).

A cement screed is made from one part of cement and three parts of sand. But now there are many ready-made dry mixes that only need to be diluted with water and can be used.

Video: do-it-yourself floor screed step by step instructions:

Do-it-yourself floor screed pouring technology

The technology of floor screed in an apartment includes several stages. A roofing tape is glued to the walls from below so that its upper edge is 15 cm higher than your future screed.

Also, upon discovery through holes and cracks in the floor, they must be sealed with non-shrink cement (BUC), so that later, when pouring the solution, it does not leak to the neighbors from below.

The next stage of pouring is the installation of beacons. The whole system depends on the quality and correct installation of beacons. further work. We use metal T-shaped guides as beacons.

We fasten them to the same solution from which we will make the screed. Laying it out in heaps. The first beacon should be at a distance of 20cm from the wall. Subsequent beacons are installed parallel to each other, at a distance of 30-40 cm less than the length of the rule.

The longer the rule, the smoother the screed will be.

After laying the beacons on piles of mortar, they must be leveled with a level. The alignment should be lengthwise along the beacon and also between all beacons. As a result, the level in all positions should be at zero.

After leveling, wait for the solution to completely harden.

After installing the beacons and solidifying the solution, you can proceed directly to pouring the solution. To do this, knead the solution and pour it between two beacons, starting from the far edge.

Then, as a rule, we tighten (level) it along the beacons to ourselves. And so on until the entire floor screed is filled. Filling is best done together, since while one is leveling, the second at this time is kneading the next portion of the solution.

And now you have finished pouring the floor screed, but it's too early to relax. Now you need to create conditions under which it will harden correctly.

It takes 24-28 days for the cement to fully harden and gain strength. To prevent too early drying of the screed, it must be moistened 2-3 times a day. This should go on for about two weeks.

You can also cover it with a film, then it will be possible to moisturize as needed.

After 5-8 days it will be possible to walk on the screed, but it will be completely ready in a month. Speeding up in such matters will not lead to anything good, but on the contrary, you can only spoil all the work done.

Quality checking

After the necessary time has passed, you can check the quality of the floor screed.

1. We look visually - it should be a gray uniform color.
2. Next, we look at the evenness of the surface. Using a two-meter rule laid on the floor, we check the size of the gap. The gap according to our standards should not exceed 4 mm.
3. The third point will be a hardness test. If the screed is not strong enough, then, as already mentioned, it can simply crack. We check for hardness by hitting a hammer on a tangent.

That's all the main points when pouring the floor screed with your own hands. By following these rules, you can avoid many mistakes, loss of time, and as a result, save your nerves and reduce the cost of apartment renovation.

By the way, information to think about the scale of work - for a 80 m2 screed, you will need about 100 bags of dry mix.

Video instruction on how to make a floor screed:

If you have any questions, complaints or want to leave your positive feedback, you can do it below! Leave your feedback and suggestions in the comments!

The most versatile, durable and strong flooring option is cement screed, which can tolerate temperature changes and is resistant to moisture. To achieve an excellent result, it is necessary to strictly observe the technology of work.

Most often, the floor is leveled with the most popular, budget and accessible way- using cement and sand. The cement surface (as seen in the photo of the floor screed) is able to repel fats, acids and conducts heat well.

In order to save budget funds and be sure of the reliability of the work performed, many homeowners are thinking: how to make a floor screed with their own hands?

And this process is not fast, but quite affordable, even for a self-taught master.

What is the screed made of?

This composition is quite simple to knead by yourself, with the following components:

• water (2 parts);
• sand (3 parts);
• cement (1 part).

To make the screed the most dense and reliable, it is worth adding any adhesive substance - a plasticizer - to the solution. Adhesives can be purchased ready-made at any hardware store.

A mortar of cement with sand can be placed on brick, concrete and stone. The solution is laid in a maximum thickness of 10 centimeters. If the layer is less than 3 centimeters, it is better to apply the reinforcement method to avoid cracks.

The main types of cement screed

When screeding the floor in the house, different types of it are used, depending on the goal that needs to be achieved in the end:

• Screed using a floating structure with insulating layers.
• Screed that is connected to the surface of the wall and floor.
• Cement screed, independent of the type of surface.

Preparation for work

Before starting work with cement screed needs to be properly prepared work surface. That is, you need to clean the floor in the room and carefully level it before work.

There is a situation when the screed is made directly on the ground. In this case, it must be properly tamped, then pour the bitumen composition to smooth the screed. If this is not done, then cracks may already appear on the finished surface, since the base will sag over time.

The second step is the installation of beacons, that is, measuring the space of the room with a level and installing icons that correspond desired height. This ensures the smoothness and evenness of the floor.

Beacons help in the future without any problems to fill a perfectly flat surface. Most often, the columns are placed every 30 centimeters, then beacons - slats - are attached to them.

All the way high level must be poured cement composition, and it is much easier to calculate required amount mortar for floor screed in the apartment, that is, to avoid unnecessary unnecessary costs for materials.

Direct work on the floor screed

If the surface is leveled by about 4 centimeters, it is better to make a connected screed. So the fill will connect both the base of the surface and the wall of the room.

The composition of the solution itself should be moderately thick and flow freely (without lumps) just above the level of the beacons. This is necessary because with further drying, the fill will settle a little.

To get rid of excess air (bubbles), after pouring, it is necessary to compact the solution with a vibrating screed.

Note!

At the end of the day, you can remove the beacons, and the traces left from them can be carefully primed and rubbed with a solution.

There is a non-cohesive surface leveling option. The instruction on how to make this screed is quite simple, but you need to take into account that you will need to provide an even and moisture-resistant base. To avoid cracks in the layers, the use of primers and similar substances is not recommended.

A dry floor screed is the fastest way to make the most even coating that can withstand a fairly large load and is suitable for rooms where traffic is increased.

Dry screed can be made from the following materials:

• moisture resistant drywall;
• plywood resistant to moisture;

Usually, a dry screed is made in height from 3 to 5 centimeters, but, if necessary, it can be higher, but reinforcement with an additional layer of plates will be required.

Note!

You will also need a dry filler - expanded clay, that is, special granules of their baked clay, which are light in weight.

For a dry screed, profiles are used that are distributed one and a half meters from each other strictly parallel, starting from the wall. Then sheets are laid on a dry screed, starting strictly from the door.

The most traditional is still a concrete screed, which has been tested by experience and is used for finishing coatings and during installation. warm floors. If necessary, then in this way it is easy to make any desired slope.

When self-screeding the floor, it is important to know that the room should not be heated during the passage of work, as the composition may not dry evenly!

DIY floor screed photo

Note!