Restoration of a veneered table. Veneered doors: the secrets of successful restoration. After repairing the products in our workshop, they will look like new

In everyday life, no one is immune from accidental damage to the veneer sheet by sharp and heavy objects. Traces of deep cracks, scratches and chips can be corrected only if experienced craftsmen get down to business. Restoration of veneer is our forte, as you can clearly see from the presented photos.

An example of a veneer restoration done in a workshop:

What is a veneer? What are the benefits of using it in decoration?

Veneer is a thin sheet covering obtained by removing longitudinal chips from solid wood. Strips of veneer are glued onto solid wood and fiberboard products to mimic the natural pattern of natural fine wood. In addition to its decorative function, veneer is a durable and natural protective coating. With the advent of various technologies for obtaining veneer, they learned to give it a different texture and color, which expanded the range of decorative design with its use.

Veneer and veneered plywood have become a common finishing material in the manufacture of furniture and accessories made of wood. The material is relatively easy to attach to flat surfaces with organic or synthetic-based wood glue. However, due to the peculiarities of gluing, the coating is very sensitive to high humidity and high temperature. The veneer is glued in strips and the seams between the individual sections may separate if they were not sufficiently lubricated with glue or squeezed out during drying. The reason for the restoration of veneer is most often swollen and exfoliated decorative coating.

What defects can be corrected by restoring veneer furniture?

In everyday life, no one is immune from accidental damage to the canvas with sharp and heavy objects. Traces of deep cracks, scratches and chips can only be corrected by veneer restoration under the guidance of an experienced craftsman.

1) Elimination of chips, burns, cracks and dents

The fact that the veneer is laid on the facing surface in separate strips and segments greatly simplifies the correction of local defects. Restoration of chipped veneer is practically not difficult. In this case, it does not matter whether the fragment was beaten off at the edge of the canvas or in the center.

Restoration of this kind of veneer comes down to gluing a patch. A control incision is cut around a point defect or a chip covering the entire web. A patch of a similar shape is cut out along it, which fits the general background in pattern and color.

1) Elimination of blisters during the restoration of veneer furniture

Blisters in the form of irregularities on the surface of furniture in the form of waves and bubbles are a common defect that accompanies the manufacture of veneered products. The veneer can be installed with insufficient adhesive, causing it to lag in poorly lubricated areas. Restoration of veneer to eliminate swelling is carried out locally. Therefore, do not rush to get rid of the veneered product or reject it due to several air bubbles.

1) The formation of cracks in the seams

Adjacent seams, along which veneer strips are joined, are one of the most vulnerable places. If, when cutting and stitching the strips, they are not joined exactly, then troubles will not be long in coming. The canvas can completely disperse at the seams, because of which the product will completely lose its presentability.

When restoring veneer doors and countertops, we have encountered this problem more than once. Defects of this kind require replacement of the veneering of the product in the workshop.

Restoration of veneer furniture in the workshop

The necessary tools and materials for processing veneered products are at the disposal of the restorers of the "Private Master". The principle of veneer restoration in the workshop is to minimize intervention in cases of local damage to the protective layer. The areas where the veneer was torn off are repaired with separate inserts, with a pattern and color that repeats the damaged fragment.

In cases where the veneer sheet has peeled off, but is partially held in place, the problem area is glued. A small amount of wood glue is applied to the gap between the veneer and the canvas with a brush. A better result is achieved when using gelatin-based carpentry glue. Old glue is not removed during the restoration of veneer - fresh glue will melt it and the gluing will turn out to be more reliable. A lining of a flat bar is placed over the restored area and clamped with a portable vice or clamp. Veneer restoration will be successful only if the patch is placed on a dry and fat-free surface.

After the part is removed from the press, it is prepared for varnishing and polishing. This stage of veneer restoration provides the details with additional protection against moisture. The varnish acts as a natural tinting composition, it will give the details a uniform color and shade.

Veneer restoration prices

Timely restoration of veneer is a very reasonable investment. We hasten to remind all our clients that restoration with “little blood” is most beneficial when it comes to point defects. With it, there is a real chance to avoid costly repairs and complete replacement of veneer. At the same time, our prices for veneer restoration in Moscow have been and remain the most attractive against the backdrop of a growing number of offers from other companies.

Current prices for veneer restoration in Moscow and the region:

Why order veneer restoration from us?

Own workshop with precise and well-functioning equipment, up-to-date selection of natural veneer and paintwork materials, skillful working hands – this is why the company “Private Master” has been maintaining a high level of quality of veneer restoration services for over 10 years. If you need a quick and impeccably executed restoration of facades made of veneer and other products, we are waiting for your calls and emails.

Veneer restoration- one of the most difficult works on the restoration of wooden furniture. Our craftsmen have sufficient experience and professionalism to ensure that the restoration of veneered furniture is carried out at the highest level. We restore new, old veneer furniture, as well as old and antique furniture.
Our phone

Most modern furniture is made from veneered MDF or chipboard. As a rule, there are no special problems with the restoration of such veneer. When restoring old and antique furniture, the use of modern materials is undesirable. The fact is that earlier sawn veneer was used for furniture finishing, the thickness of which was 2-3 mm. To obtain it, the log was sawn into thin plates manually with a bow-type saw. The veneer sheets were obtained in different thicknesses.

Nowadays, special band saw machines are used to obtain veneer. The thickness of the sheet obtained on such a machine ranges from 0.6 to 1 mm, which is much thinner than the old sawn veneer. Such a sheet cannot be used to restore veneer, as it will crack very quickly. In addition, restorers often face the lack of veneer of certain types of wood, as well as the difficulty of selecting the desired texture and color.

Professional restorers successfully solve
similar problems:

in the process of restoration, the old veneer is replaced with a new thin one, gluing it
with each other at a certain angle;
to perform the restoration of a small element, a piece of veneer is cut out
bow saw made of wood of the required breed;
to replenish stocks of old veneer, restorers use old
veneered furniture that is not subject to restoration.

Furniture defects requiring veneer restoration

veneer restoration,, plywood restoration, can be deep and superficial. It all depends on the characteristics of the defects that have appeared.

The most common damage that requires restoration of veneer furniture:

Restoration of swellings.

This defect arises from humidity or temperature differences. Most often it is found in the doors of the bathroom or balcony. Complete replacement of the damaged area is not advisable here. Slight swelling is removed, as a rule, by hot sizing. With a stronger one, fragmentary restoration of the veneer is used.

Scratch restoration.

During the operation of a piece of furniture, scratches almost always form on it. In addition, furniture can be scratched during transportation and suffer from the claws of animals. Small scratches are removed with a special aerosol varnish and wax. Deeper ones are removed with shellac, tinted and varnished. Wide scratches with torn edges will require complex complex restoration.

Dent restoration.

Dents are formed on furniture during impacts or heavy loads. Depending on the impact, they can be of various sizes and depths. Restoration of veneer furniture in such cases involves bringing the damaged area into the plane and drawing the texture. Dents, depending on the size, are filled with putty, shellac or wax, brought to the plane, and then tinted and varnished.

Every home has favorite interior items that have lost their appeal over time. Furniture restoration will help prolong the life of your favorite furniture, make it attractive and bright. The complexity of the process depends on the damage to the wooden surfaces and how much you want to transform the old furniture. Do not think that restoring furniture is easy, as this process is laborious and will require accuracy and perseverance from you.

Scratches can appear on any household item. But on lacquered furniture, they are much more noticeable. If there is information about the varnish with which the surface was covered, then it is enough to treat the scratch with the appropriate tool:

Ethyl alcohol is used for alcohol-based varnish or varnish;
Thinners 646 and 647 are well suited for nitro lacquers. You can also use acetone;
Surfaces coated with polyester or nitrocellulose varnish are treated with sandpaper. After stripping, you need to apply a special polishing paste and varnish again.

If the coating is unknown, then it is worth using other methods to eliminate small scuffs and scratches on the furniture. Restoration of Soviet furniture is often carried out with the help of a stroke. In building stores, a stroke for furniture is presented in a large assortment, it is affordable and easy to use:

Shake the bottle until a homogeneous mass is formed;
Apply one layer to the scratch with a brush;
Once the first layer is dry, apply the second. There may be several layers;
Leave to dry for 10-15 minutes;
Buff the area with a soft flannel cloth.

This completes the process of restoring scratches with a stroke.

Shake the stroke

Apply the composition with a brush to the scratch

Polishing the surface

How to apply wax pencils for restoration

This material is sold in all hardware stores. It is easy to use and not expensive. It is convenient to use a pencil when restoring carved objects, as it is easy for them to penetrate hard-to-reach areas of the decor. Do-it-yourself furniture restoration in the Baroque style is carried out as follows:

If the wax pencil is soft, just wipe the defect and polish the surface;
If the pencil is made of hard wax, then it must be heated before applying to the scratch.

The surface is polished with a soft cloth to a shine.

Applying a pencil

Polishing the coating

How to use furniture wax

There is another very common tool - furniture wax. It can be hard or soft. The first version of the material must first be melted and filled with damaged areas. Restorative soft wax is much easier to use, they rub the area with a lot of scratches. In both cases, after the wax has hardened, the surface is subjected to high-quality polishing. We also restore furniture made of chipboard (chipboard), which has many scratches and scuffs.

We heat the wax

Applying wax to furniture

We polish the surface with a rag.

DIY mastic

If the above materials were not at hand, then you can make mastic for the restoration of the furniture wall. To do this, take:

30 gr of turpentine;
20 grams of alcohol;
40 gr of wax;
Petrol;
Soft wool.

Preparing the mixture is not difficult: melt the wax in a water bath, into which turpentine is gradually introduced, with constant stirring, then pour alcohol into the container. Take a woolen rag, wet it with gasoline, dip it into the mixture and rub it over the damaged surface until it shines. The job of removing scratches from a wood surface is not difficult. Now consider how to restore furniture with more serious damage.

We prepare materials

We apply gasoline to the coating

Coating the surface with wax

Repair of chips and deep cracks

Chips and deep cracks on the surface of furniture are considered quite serious damage, and it is much more difficult to repair them. If there is no confidence in the quality of this work, contact a professional. Restoration of furniture by a private master will not be cheap, but it will be done with high quality and with a guarantee. We decided to do it ourselves - pay attention to what tool and material will be needed:

Stain of the desired color;
White spirit, for dissolving the varnish coating;
Special primer for wood;
Putty mixture for wood;
Sandpaper of different fractions from 100 to 3000;
Scotch masking;
Brushes and rollers.

The algorithm for performing work looks like this:

In case of incomplete restoration, the surface on which there is no damage is pasted over with adhesive tape;
The damaged area is treated with white spirit to remove the old varnish;
The primer is applied to the tree and left to dry completely;
The chip is puttied with a special compound so that a small tubercle appears on the surface;
As soon as the putty is completely dry, it is cleaned with sandpaper;
Wipe the area with a damp suede cloth and apply the stain of the desired color.

The work must be carried out carefully so that the stain does not get into the undamaged area, otherwise the tree will darken and a complete restoration will have to be carried out. Once the stain has dried, you can varnish the repaired area. Lacquer for furniture restoration is applied with a brush, if the area is small, or with a roller.

It is necessary to cover the surface in several layers, while each subsequent one, after drying, is sanded with sandpaper with an abrasiveness of 800 units. The last layer must be polished with a special polish.

If you do not know how to properly restore, then you can purchase special books that describe the entire process in detail. You can also use online tutorials.

Treat with white spirit

We apply a primer

Apply putty inside the cracks

Sandpaper processing

Coating with stain

What to do if the veneer is stratified

Veneered products need a special approach. The means and tools for furniture restoration are the same as for the restoration of wooden products, and the methods for eliminating defects are different:

Veneer restoration begins with an inspection of the item. If blisters appear on the surface, then you need to take a syringe with a thick needle, into which you draw PVA construction glue. Gently pierce the swelling with a needle and squeeze the glue inside. Lay a piece of clean cloth on the site, put the load. If the veneer is stuck unevenly, this place should be heated with an iron or a bag of hot salt;
A small loose piece of veneer should not be cut off evenly with a knife, it is better to break it off. The uneven edges of the crease are much easier to dock. Then the fragment should be cleaned from the old glue, apply a new layer of adhesive and attach the part to the fracture site. Put a rag and put a load;
If repair of scratches is required, then it is carried out in the same way as in the restoration of wooden furniture: small ones are covered with a furniture pencil, deep ones are filled with wax. After drying, the restoration wax is sanded, polished and varnished.

Restoring luxury furniture on your own requires special care and patience. Do not rush - coat with the composition, wait until dry, sand and spread again, and so on several times. Methods are different, in some situations you have to use several methods to achieve the desired effect.

We examine the coatings

We tear off the damaged section of the veneer

We close up the cracks

Complete refinishing of the paintwork

If with the help of putty and varnish it is not possible to recreate the former beauty of the furniture, you need to restore the wooden or complete restoration of Soviet furniture with your own hands. The work is carried out in stages, the sequence of which must be strictly observed.

Cleaning the surface from the old coating

Before you start removing furniture varnish or paint from the surface of the furniture, you need to purchase a special remover. Restoration of Italian furniture made of precious woods is a very responsible task, therefore, emulsion-based washes are used. This material is non-toxic, harm to wood is minimal. It is worth noting that the ignition of these washes tends to zero, which is a plus if the work is carried out in an apartment. So the restorers of modern furniture are advised to use this particular material.

Work with washes:

As soon as the wash hits the lacquer, the process of corrosion begins. You need to apply the material with a special flute brush and wait. Polyester varnishes will come off after 2-3 hours, alcohol compositions in 30 minutes;
Before applying the wash, the polyester coating must be sanded with coarse sandpaper so that the composition penetrates as deep as possible;
After applying the material, all furniture must be well wrapped with paraffin-impregnated paper and secured with twine or twine;
Residues of old paint or varnish can be removed after the time indicated on the package with a remover. A simple spatula can be used for cleaning;
Further, the entire surface is degreased with a solvent.

After carrying out these actions, the furniture is left for several hours to dry. Then you should walk along it with sandpaper along the fibers and wipe it from dust with a damp cloth.

We process the surface with sandpaper

We apply a wash

Covering furniture with paraffin paper

Removing old paint

Degrease the surface

What material to use for varnishing

When choosing a means for varnishing furniture, you need to focus on the advice of professionals, for example:

Water-based varnishes are used to restore furniture at home in children's rooms. They do not have an unpleasant smell, they dry quickly, do not cause allergic reactions. There is a small minus - after drying, they become dull, which some do not like;
Alkyd varnishes are advised to be used by people who do not have experience in varnishing surfaces. They are easy to use and fit right the first time. Even if there was a smudge during application, it is easy to wash off;
Polyurethane compounds are the most difficult to apply: firstly, they require special equipment for their application, and secondly, they have an unpleasant odor. But it is worth noting that such a coating will last much longer than all of the above materials;
Furniture restoration (a master class can be viewed on our resource) is carried out using furniture oils. A swab is used to apply the composition.

The surface to be varnished must be smooth. Before applying furniture varnish, buy two soft brushes. After applying the first layer of varnish, take a new tool.

Restoration of cabinet furniture at home can be done independently, only subject to a strict sequence in the process:

Remove the old layer of top coat;
clean the surface;
Apply primer;
Putty chips and scratches;
Sand after drying;
Apply stain;
Apply furniture polish.

This plan will help you avoid making mistakes when working on the restoration of wooden interior items.

Removing old paint

Cleaning up

We prime

We putty chips

We grind the coating

We cover with stain

We apply varnish

Technology of work with upholstered furniture

Restoration of upholstered furniture is carried out according to the following algorithm:

Perform a complete disassembly;
Wooden elements should be sanded well along the fibers and wiped with a soft, damp cloth to remove dust from the product;
Coat the parts with primer on wood and allow to dry well;
For coloring, it is better to use spray paints, as they lie much more evenly. In this case, three coats of paint will be enough. As soon as the paint dries, a layer of protective furniture varnish is applied to the surface;
Remove the upholstery and pull out the filler. To choose the method by which the restoration of upholstered furniture will be carried out, you need to know the features of the updated product. For example, if we take into account the restoration of chairs, then it is enough to stretch a new fabric on the seat. In the photo you can see the product before and after restoration. If an armchair or a sofa is being restored, then it will be necessary not only to change the upholstery, but also the filler;
According to the old pattern, cut out the filler. You can use sheet foam, which is in stores in a large assortment;
Cut out fabric pieces. To do this, lay out the old upholstery parts on a new canvas and make the corresponding elements;
Stick filler on interior items. To do this, you can use PVA construction glue;
Lay the sheathing and, using a construction or furniture stapler, fix it on the back of the product. The fabric should be of medium tension, while the staples should be every 3-5 cm from each other;
The last stage of work will be the assembly of furniture.

It is worth noting that textile workers use a special restoration kit, which has everything you need for high-quality upholstery of upholstered furniture. As you can see, there is nothing complicated in the restoration of upholstered furniture with your own hands. If everything is done correctly, the result can be a product in an interesting design that will delight you for more than one year.

Video

Owners of antique furniture cause sincere envy among rarity lovers.

Unfortunately, not all the lucky ones are able to realize the value of old furniture, cabinets, sofas, chests of drawers, dressing tables and other items that seem to have outlived their time.

The advantage is that in the old days there were no such technologies and materials that today allow you to quickly and cheaply build any element or a whole set.

Furniture was made of valuable wood, opened with varnishes and varnishes from natural ingredients, and forged elements were used for fittings. Modern materials - plastic, MDF, fiberboard and chipboard do not require special skill.

They are easy and affordable to process and do-it-yourself furniture restoration at home should not present problems.

However, products made from them do not have such energy, they do not give a feeling of warmth and comfort, like those made many years ago by the master manually, using elementary tools or machines.

That is why you should not rush to part with antique furniture, even if it is not the ultimate dream of collectors.

Preparatory stage

Before proceeding with the restoration of furniture at home, it is important to correctly assess the scope of the work ahead.

First you need to determine what kind of defects you have to deal with. There are several types of furniture damage that you can restore with your own hands:

Scratches and scuffs;
Deep mechanical damage - chips, cracks;
spots;
Insect damage;
Missing or worn fittings;
Broken details.

Once the extent of the damage has been determined, the recovery process can begin. First you need to clean the surface of dirt, if necessary, rinse it with warm water and detergents, dry it.

Removing scuffs and scratches

To remove scratches on furniture, there are many ways, professional and folk.

In furniture stores selling fittings and spare parts, a special touch is sold.

It is affordable, easy to use: just shake it well, then apply it with a brush to the damaged area. Make several layers if necessary.

Leave to dry for 15 minutes, then wipe with a flannel or viscose cloth, leveling the surface.

Another tool is furniture wax. It comes in two varieties, soft and hard. It is enough to rub the desired area with a soft one, the hard one is pre-melted, applied, allowed to harden and polished.

Craftsmen offer no less simple ways to mask small scratches and scuffs.

With the help of walnuts, iodine, machine oil, mayonnaise, olive oil and vinegar, children's wax pencils.

The method of application for all options is approximately the same: gently treat the damaged area, leave to dry and absorb for a few minutes, wipe with a soft cloth.

You can also make your own mastic. For this you will need:

Turpentine (30gr);
Petrol;
Alcohol (20g);
Wax (40gr);
Wool fabric.

Melt wax in a metal bowl, add turpentine, mix and add alcohol. Dip a cloth soaked in gasoline in the mixture and gently rub the mastic until it shines.

These were ways of removing and masking surface damage on a polished wood surface.

Now consider the possibilities of repairing more serious damage.

Removal of chips and cracks

Getting rid of chips and cracks in wood is much more difficult than getting rid of surface scratches.

Therefore, if there is no uncertainty that it will be possible to carry out repairs at home, it is better to contact the master.

If you decide to do it yourself, you need to stock up on the necessary minimum of tools:

White spirit (nail polish remover);
Stain of the desired shade;
Primer on wood;
Fine sandpaper (for 100, 180, 300, 800, 1200 and 3000);
Wood putty;
masking tape;
Roller or brush.

If the restoration does not require complete disassembly into parts, then the remaining surfaces must be protected with masking tape.

Clean the damaged area from the varnish coating with white spirit, treat the wood with a primer, then putty.

After drying, level the putty with the surface with sandpaper. Remove dust with a damp cloth and apply stain to obtain the desired shade.

It is important to apply the stain exclusively on the puttied area, without getting on the tree. Otherwise, the wood will change color, and then you can’t do without a major overhaul.

Tip: You need to make the color a tone lighter, as the stain will darken when varnished.

After complete drying, you can varnish. The varnish should be applied with a brush or roller, depending on the area of the site.

Each new layer can be applied only after the previous one has completely dried and after preliminary grinding with sandpaper with a fraction of 600 or 800 units.

The last layer should be leveled with the old polishing with sandpaper of the finest grit.

First at 1200, and then at 2500 or 3000. When finished, wipe with polish or furniture wax until a glossy surface is obtained.

Stain removal

Often on the polished surface there are stains from spilled coffee, iodine, oil, wine or other unknown coloring liquid. They can be dealt with by rubbing the stains with gasoline.

If necessary, repeat the procedure several times until it disappears completely. Finally, rub with a mixture of denatured alcohol and linseed oil, this will restore the polish.

Stains from hot mugs, an iron, a kettle are removed with ammonia, or ordinary vodka.

Recovery after insect pests

Parts that are eaten away by beetles are best replaced, since the density of the wood is broken, and with a slight load, it will certainly break. If replacement is not possible, the furniture must be dismantled.

Clean the part from varnish, using a solvent and a spatula, sand, disinfect with special preparations.

Putty holes left by insects, cover with stain to match, and varnish.

Restoration of fittings

If the old fittings are suitable for further use, they can be restored. To begin with, it must be removed from the furniture and completely disassembled for parts.

Then it needs to be cleaned of dirt, rust and paint.

To facilitate the cleaning process, you can soak the parts in vinegar, citric acid solution, or special chemical solutions. If necessary, you can sand with fine sandpaper, and polish with Goi paste.

After all the manipulations, you need to assemble and attach the parts to their places.

Sheds, it is better to lubricate - this will save them in the future from new rust.

Missing or non-repairable fittings can be replaced with new ones. Furniture accessories of any design are easy to find in specialized stores or order on special sites.

How to glue a broken piece or peeled veneer

Some broken parts do not need to be changed, they can be glued together at home.

To do this, you need wood glue or PVA. The area to be glued must be cleaned, sanded with coarse sandpaper, treated with an adhesive, left for 5 minutes, and then joined by strongly squeezing.

Clamps come in handy for this.

Before complete drying should take at least a day. After the parts are glued together, remove the remaining glue.

It's time to move on to cosmetic restoration - staining with stain and varnishing.

Peeled veneer is also glued with PVA. If it is not possible to leave it under pressure, an iron will help. It is necessary to apply glue to the joints and let it dry a little, then, pressing hard, smooth the veneer with a heated iron.

Tip: To protect the veneer from overheating, you need to lay a sheet of paper between it and the iron.

With the help of veneer, you can drastically change the look of furniture.

An old and rather shabby countertop will be transformed and become a work of art if it is decorated with a veneer mosaic.

Also veneer paste over the facades of cabinets, and any other surfaces. Even products made from inexpensive wood species will look like solid expensive furniture if they are covered with oak, walnut, cherry or birch veneer.

Conclusion on the topic

Of course, not all furniture is worth restoring.

But if it’s a pity to part with a nondescript grandmother’s sideboard or a clumsy grandfather’s chest of drawers, it’s worth trying to give them a chance for a second youth.

Has old furniture lost its former luster? I'm tired, but it's a pity to throw it away? All this is fixable: you can improve the appearance so that no one will think that the furniture is many years old. Do-it-yourself furniture restoration is hard work. But you don't have to do anything super complicated. Some methods are so simple that everyone can do it (we are not talking about antiques, of course).

Restoration of wooden surfaces

No matter how carefully the furniture is handled, scuffs, scratches, stains still occur. They are easy to eliminate. The main thing is to know how and why.

Restoring the polish

Restoring a layer of varnish is a difficult task. Any restoration of furniture begins with cleaning and degreasing and repairing the varnish coating too. We use dish detergent diluted in water: safe and reliable. After drying, we proceed to update the polishing.

You can simply refresh the faded polish on the furniture with mixtures prepared by yourself:

Two parts of linseed oil and turpentine and a part of vinegar. Everything is mixed, applied with a swab, wait until it is absorbed and polished.
Mix oil and beer in equal parts and wipe the furniture with this composition. Rub after soaking.
A more shiny surface will be if the beer is boiled with a piece of wax, cooled and applied slightly warm to the furniture. When the composition is absorbed, the surface is rubbed to a shine.

How to remove polish from furniture

Quite often you have to remove the polishing: this is not the most fashionable finish. Modern furniture is most often painted with opaque or tinted paints, and the surface is matte. In any case, you need to remove the polish. There are several ways. Since varnishes are different in composition, you have to select empirically. But one of the methods should work.

How to paint polished furniture

If the old furniture was being prepared for painting, it must be cleaned of dust, wiped with a damp cloth and allowed to dry. After leveling everything with putty, smooth out all the bumps, wait until it dries. Take sandpaper and sand again, first with medium, then with fine grain. Next, apply a layer of primer and wait for it to dry.

The primer is bought for the paint that is going to be used, or the paint can be diluted with a compatible solvent and covered instead of primer. After drying, you can paint.

You can paint with a roller or brush. Usually several coats are needed: do not try to apply a lot of paint at once, as streaks may appear. It is better to apply several thin layers. So the surface will be smooth and uniform. Another trick: for uniform coloring, layers are applied in different directions - along, then across. This also applies to the application of varnish.

Some varnishes are easier to work with when they are warm. They are slightly heated and then applied with a spray gun or brush. When warming up, you need to be careful: vapors can flare up.

In order of staining: first, the inner surfaces, edges and joints are painted, then they move on to the outer ones. With this sequence, there is less chance of getting dirty or touching the already painted surface, ruining it.

If the varnish coating is even, without defects, and it needs to be painted over, you can do without removing this layer. There are special primers for difficult surfaces. Coat the surface with them, and paint after drying. They have components that penetrate even the varnish layer. Therefore, the paint will be applied well and hold on for a long time. But such soils have a minus: they are expensive. But they do save a lot of time.

Some secrets of wood coloring (including brushing and coloring in two colors) are in the article "". See the video for a few secrets of even application of acrylic paint.

If the restoration did not bring the expected result, maybe you need to change the appearance? How

How to restore veneer

Veneered furniture requires a special approach. The means are basically the same, the methods are different. For example, if after hitting the veneer is swollen, draw PVA glue into a disposable syringe, pierce the bubble, and inject glue into the cavity. Lay a piece of dense fabric on top and put a load. If the surface is uneven (convex or concave), a bag of dense fabric with heated sand is used as a load.

If the veneer is glued to alcohol glue, you can return the swollen part to its place by ironing it through a rag with a hot iron. But do not overheat the iron: the veneer can stretch. The degree of heating is medium.

If ironing through a dry cloth does not help, try again with a damp cloth (wet and wring it out well). There is a chance that the wood will swell and become more elastic. To securely fix the swelling, you can introduce PVA there, and then heat it with an iron.

If the swelling is cracked, you can also try to seal it with heating (through a rag). If it does not work, tear off the exfoliated piece. You don’t cut it off, but break it off: on the veneer, the fractures after restoration are less noticeable than the cuts. Therefore, you break off the lagging piece. The old glue is removed from the place of damage and a piece of veneer (with sandpaper or nail files - depending on the size). Further, the repair of veneer on furniture is standard: they smeared it with PVA glue, laid it, aligning the fault lines, laid a thick fabric on top and put the load to dry.

Scratches and traces of restoration on veneer are removed in the same way as on wood: they are painted over with a furniture marker of a suitable shade. If the scratch is deep, a little molten wax for furniture restoration is applied to it (with a spatula). After drying, the wax is rubbed, if necessary, fine-grained sandpaper is used, but after such processing, the restored piece is covered with a layer of varnish.

Do-it-yourself furniture restoration requires patience and accuracy. We have to act gradually and methodically: smeared, waiting for drying, leveled, smeared again, etc. Sometimes you have to try several methods: the damage is different, as are the materials used in the manufacture (glue, varnishes, etc.). But as a result, the furniture will look much better.