Scraping wood floor tool. Do-it-yourself scraping of a wooden floor and the cost of work. Cycling machines - a worthy replacement for manual labor

The wooden floor has not ceased to be popular and in demand for decades. In spite of a large number of modern facing materials, it continues to be in demand. This covering provides a cosiness, is beautiful and strong. However, it also requires careful maintenance. For example, from time to time a tree will need scraping. You can do it yourself.

Elimination of small defects on the surface floor covering, cleaning it from dirt and dust, removing old paint layers - this is sanding. How often you will carry out this procedure depends on the degree of deterioration of the floor, as well as on the care and maintenance of the wood.

If you are going to do big renovation, then the floor treatment must be present. The fact is that the interior, which combines the new facing material and the old darkened and cracked wood will look, to put it mildly, ugly.

What tools will be needed for the job?

Before scraping the floor, you need to prepare the necessary materials and fixtures. You will need:

Mineral alcohol;
Polyethylene film;
Brush with metal bristles;
Construction or powerful household vacuum cleaner;
Surface grinder;
Device for processing baseboards or manual scraper;
Sandpaper with different sizes grains: from 40 to 120;
Special scissors;
Screwdriver or hammer.

In addition, it will be necessary to choose a putty designed specifically for wooden floors. You also need varnish and a tool for applying it (roller or brush).

What should be the direction of the loop?

This question is very important, since wood flooring is not the same. For example, if you have parquet and it is laid in a herringbone pattern, then its roughing is done at an angle of 45 degrees, and the finishing is done along and across. Each of these manipulations must be carried out 2 times.

If the parquet is figured, then it must be cycled in 2 directions, perpendicular each friend. decorative coating processed with spiral or circular motions. Moreover, only surface grinding tools are used.

Advice! So that holes do not appear on the floor, you should not linger in one place for a long time.

Expensive coating types are best sanded by hand. The movements must be circular. Both sandpaper and a scraper can be used for this - a tool at the end of which a slightly curved blade is attached.

Features in preparation for work

Before cycling is performed, it is necessary to prepare. First, put on protective clothing, gloves, goggles and a respirator, as there will be a lot of dust in the room. The sander makes a lot of noise, so headphones or ear plugs will also come in handy.

The room should be completely free of furniture and other items. It is also desirable to remove the chandelier. If the furniture cannot be taken out, then it should be covered with a thick film, and so that there are no gaps.
The door must be closed. Seal the gaps with masking tape so that dust does not seep into other rooms. In some cases, the door has to be removed. Then the opening is closed with a film.
Now you need to examine the floor, assess its general condition. The coating must be smooth and durable, not subject to warping.
Carefully inspect the logs and draft, if they are damaged, then they should be repaired or replaced. Floor creaks also need to be removed.
If the floor was covered with mastic, then this layer must be removed. Use a washcloth and mineral spirits (white spirit) for this.
Nails or self-tapping screws sticking out of the boards must be drowned so that they do not interfere with the grinder.
All cracks and gaps between the floorboards should be filled with scraps smeared with glue. Further, the protruding parts are cut off with a planer. Now putty the problem areas. It is desirable to level the surface with a sandpaper. After puttying, the floor dries for at least 2 days.

Features of the procedure

Cycling is not an easy process, so it should be taken seriously. The work consists of several stages:

First you need to load a sheet of coarse sandpaper into the device. Check if it is well fixed. It is not necessary to turn on the device abruptly. If you have never worked with it, then tilt it to the side, turn it on and slowly lower it to its working position. Otherwise, out of habit, the unit can be pulled out of your hands. Do not let go of the machine during operation.
Processing should begin from the opposite corner from the door. Leave the windows open at the same time, as there will be a lot of dust. The direction of grinding is diagonal.
It is made in such a way that each subsequent strip overlaps slightly with the previous one. Each track should be processed 2-3 times, depending on the type of material. Please note that periodically you need to clean the sandpaper and dust box. As the abrasive material is erased, it should be changed.
Each next approach should be perpendicular to the previous one. At the same time, at all stages, the grain size of the sandpaper is reduced by 1 number. The last approach is done with the smallest sandpaper in a direction parallel to the floorboards.
Lastly, looping is done wooden floor at the walls. This procedure is complicated, so a conventional surface grinder will not work. Here you need a special machine for processing borders. The abrasive material should be medium-grained.

After completion of work, the floor surface must be wiped with a dry cloth. After that, the coating, walls and ceiling must be vacuumed well. Next, you can start finishing wooden floor. For this, varnish is usually used.

As you can see, do-it-yourself sanding of a wooden floor is done quite quickly, although it is associated with some difficulties. However, if you are not confident in your abilities, then it is better to entrust this matter to professionals.

Gender out natural wood- this is always true. Despite the abundance of various innovative floor coverings on the market, many people still do not see an alternative to the proven wooden deck. Even despite the fact that it requires periodic maintenance. And he, in turn, implies the implementation of certain activities, one of which is the scraping of a wooden floor.

Is it possible to scrape the floor with your own hands? I guess, yes! However, first you need to understand what actually needs to be done. Scouring the floor means the operation of gently removing the top layer from the surface of the wooden floor. There may be several reasons for performing such work, for example, the elimination of irregularities that arose during the repair of the floor, including the insertion of new elements.

Note! In the process of removing the top layer, cleaning is performed wooden surface from old varnish, wax, oil, paint or other contaminants. Small chips are removed in the same way.

Parquet grinder (PShM), which in everyday life is called a "sanding machine".
Angle grinder or manual scraper, designed for surface treatment in hard-to-reach places and corners.
Abrasive material - sandpaper No. 40-120.
Scissors.
Putty for wood.
Vacuum cleaner.
Roller and brushes.

Attention! In everyday life, very often people try to make the process of doing work easier for themselves and use a grinder. This implies the presence of certain skills when using this abrasive tool. Be careful!

It looks like a cycle for manual sanding of a wooden floor

It is better for people without experience to use simple scraping machines, which are still left over from the recent "Soviet" past. They are characterized by safety of operation, low weight and availability of use. Professionals, of course, use a different technique. These are grinders, some of which are only for fine grinding, while others are only for deep.

Cycling apparatus

The main area is scraped using a drum scraper, visually similar to a lawn mower. Corners and edges are processed with an angular scraper.

Important! It makes no sense to acquire such specific equipment - scraping a wooden floor with your own hands is done infrequently. When the need arises for these machines, you should contact the rental service, and it is better to agree on all the details in advance.

Preparing a wood floor for sanding

Before proceeding with the sanding, it is necessary to assess the condition of the wooden floor. Particular attention should be paid to sagging boards - a flaw in the support beams is possible. If such a problem occurs, then they must be replaced, as well as thin, easily split boards.

Cycling is preceded by a very thorough cleaning

After assessing the foundation, you must:

Clean the floor with a vacuum cleaner and remove the layer protective coating(for example, mastics) with a washcloth and white spirit.
Determine if communications pass under the floor. If yes, then fasten the boards providing access to wires or pipelines with brass screws.
Check for the presence of nails, if any, then drown the protruding hats with a hammer and a punch.
Prepare wooden strips and trimmings with which to fill the gaps between the boards, pre-lubricated with glue on both sides. After the glue has hardened, the protruding parts must be cleaned with a planer. If necessary, the repair elements are impregnated with stain.

After that, puttying is performed, and then grinding with sandpaper.

Technology of execution and nuances of work

Scraping should be carried out with the obligatory use of funds personal protection: respirator, goggles, old clothes and gown. It is better to put cotton swabs or earplugs in your ears. Before turning on the grinder, close the door and seal the gaps in the door frame with insulating tape.

Attention! Even at the rental company, familiarize yourself with all the intricacies of working on the provided car. For example, specify how sandpaper is replaced.

First, large sandpaper is inserted into the drum of the sanding machine, and then the apparatus itself is started - work begins from the corner. To work, you need to choose the direction "diagonally", while you need to make sure that each subsequent track overlaps with the previous one. Sanding a plank floor implies a very careful attitude to the apparatus: the sandpaper needs to be replaced periodically - in the process of work it is torn and clogged with dust. In addition, the dust collector must be cleaned frequently.

Scraping is necessary to "overlap"

Since the scraping consists of several approaches, each subsequent approach is performed perpendicular to the previous direction. Moreover, each stage implies the use of sandpaper of a smaller grain size. Finally, scraping is done with fine-grained paper in a direction parallel to the floorboards.

In principle, the scraping process can be considered complete. It remains only to thoroughly clean the surface of the renovated floor, as well as skirting boards, window and door frames. It is not necessary to sweep the floor for the next 24 hours to avoid excessive dust in the air. And then we perform final cleaning, treatment with white spirit and opening with varnish. Everything, a new beautiful eco-friendly floor made of natural wood will continue to delight you with beauty and pleasant sensations.

No matter how wide the variety of modern flooring may be, it is the plank floor that is still considered the most environmentally friendly and comfortable. True, it has one significant disadvantage - even with careful operation after a few years it appearance spoils. Here, a special procedure can come to the rescue - cycling, about the features and subtleties of which, we will describe in this article.

What it is?

For those who first come across the term "scrapping" of a wooden floor, sometimes it is not entirely clear what this procedure is. So, scraping is the removal of the topmost wood layer from the boards. In fact, this procedure replaces the varnishing, grinding and polishing of the boards.

Main Feature scraping is the possibility of its implementation only when using a special scraping machine.

Manually, and even more so, using improvised tools, it is simply impossible to cope with such a task.

Another feature is that scraping is possible only as long as the thickness of the boards allows it. After all, do not forget that with each carrying out of such a procedure, upper layer sex, and sooner or later it will finally become thinner. True, this will come in 50-70 years, not earlier.

Types of scraping machines

Until recently, cycling was carried out by using a manual machine, which was called the cyclya. Today, special grinding machines are used, working from connection to electrical network.

They are of two types: drum and disk:

The drum machine for scraping consumes a lot of electricity, it is quite difficult to operate and makes a lot of noise. Experts today insist that it is rational to use it only for processing a large floor area.
Disc sanders do not have such shortcomings, they level the floor perfectly evenly, give the boards shine and original appearance. It is disk scraping machines that are now at the peak of popularity.

Using a disk apparatus, you can completely scrape a wooden floor yourself. The main thing is to carefully follow all the steps and recommendations.

Required Tools

Before proceeding directly to scraping the old floor with your own hands, you need to stock up necessary materials and tools.

To carry out the work you will need:

The cycler itself. This is the main tool, without which the work simply cannot be done.
Nozzles for rough grinding.
Nozzles for grinding corners and uneven joints.
Surface grinder.
A construction vacuum cleaner or an old but powerful ordinary household appliance.
Sandpaper large and small.
Special brushes for varnish.
Polish or paint for laminate.
Emery knife.
Special solution for making putty.

The presence of all these tools and materials at hand should be taken care of in advance and placed in close proximity. This will allow you not to be distracted in the process of doing the work to search for the necessary material.

Technological process

Preparatory stage

Regardless of where the floor renovation work will be carried out - in the country house or in the apartment, first you need to perform preparatory measures and only then scrape the flooring:

First of all, it is necessary to completely free the room from any things and furniture, the floor must be completely empty. In addition, the plinth should be removed, and door leaf remove from hinges. The doorway itself should be hung with a piece dense film, this will protect other rooms from the penetration of wood dust.
Further, outdoor boardwalk inspect for mold and severe cracks. All these flaws should be removed at this stage. Scrubbing a painted floor should begin by removing the old paint from the boards. For this, a special solvent or mineral alcohol can be used.

During operation, it is necessary to open the window wide open, this will allow dust and odors to quickly disappear from the room. After that, you need to thoroughly wash the floors with a clean warm water and let it dry for at least a day.
If badly damaged and rotten boards were noticed, they should be replaced completely or at least partially with new ones. All protruding nail heads should be driven back into the floor.
Upon completion of all preparatory procedures, it is necessary to make sure that the floor is completely cleaned of all contaminants and does not have strong and sharp protrusions over its entire surface.

Sanding and sanding

After doing preparatory phase you can scrape and sand the old wood flooring:

First you need to do a rough scraping. It is at this stage that a special machine with a suitable nozzle is required. With its help, not only the remnant of varnish or paint is removed, but also a thin layer of the wood itself is removed, on which there are various damages. Such work should be done slowly enough. The movement of the machine should be directed along the length of the boards themselves.

I would especially like to note that for a pine board it is worth choosing a nozzle with an average degree of hardness, since such wood is cycled quite quickly and easily.

This stage is considered completed when all the significant shortcomings of the wooden plank floor are eliminated.

The next step is sanding the boards. This procedure is performed in three stages using different nozzles. different size. The first step is done using size 40 paper, the second step requires using size 60 paper and the third sanding step is done with size 100 paper. This staged grinding allows you to achieve the perfect smoothness of the boards, in addition, it is this procedure that gives them their original color and shine.

It is fine grinding that takes the most time and effort. However, the correct and unhurried execution of this stage of work guarantees a high-quality and long-term result of the whole cycling as a whole.

Treatment of hard-to-reach areas

As with the entire floor, the boards must first be roughly sanded. And then sand them down. For this, special corner nozzles suitable size.

The final stage

After all the work has been completed, it is necessary to carefully but carefully putty all the gaps between the boards using a special putty. Allow the material to dry completely. After that, using sanding head with size 100 paper, go over the entire floor again. This final sanding will give the floor a finished look and eliminate any unevenness.

The final touch is the application of varnish. This procedure requires care and uniformity. The varnish is applied in three or four layers. Each next layer is applied after the previous one has completely dried. The average drying time for each layer of varnish is 4 hours.

Safety

Scraping a plank wooden floor is not only a very responsible and time-consuming task, but also quite dangerous.

Therefore, in order to protect yourself as much as possible in the process of its implementation, you must follow the following recommendations:

During work, doors to other rooms must be tightly closed. But the room itself should be well ventilated.
Be sure to use a protective mask or respirator when working with varnishes, and even during the cycling itself.
To perform work, you should choose comfortable clothing that does not constrain movements, but at the same time does not have any hanging parts. It is also recommended to tie your hair or put a scarf on your head.

When using the scraping machine itself, do not press hard on it. Otherwise, strong dents will remain on the boards, which will be difficult to eliminate.
During the execution of work, you should pay Special attention so that the wire does not get under the machine. If this happens, you must immediately disconnect the device from the mains and be sure to replace the extension cord with a new one.

Compliance with these simple tips will help to significantly improve the quality and safety of the work performed.

Well, in order to make the cycling process even easier and more convenient, we suggest that you use the following useful recommendations:

When you first turn on the device, you need to tilt it slightly and lift it above the floor, holding the device firmly with both hands and only then, in a slightly inclined state, put it on the floor, and only then straighten it. If the machine will twitch a little at the same time, then this is not a problem.
When rough sanding and fine sanding when approaching the wall, the device should be lifted from one side, rotated around itself and then continue processing next boards in the opposite direction.
Boards with a wavy structure cycle only diagonally. In this case, rough scraping is carried out twice in the opposite direction. Fine sanding should also be done diagonally using the standard attachments for this procedure.

Neither of existing materials cannot be compared with natural wood either in quality or in visual appeal. Of course wooden house with a wooden floor - it is environmentally friendly, aesthetically pleasing and as comfortable as possible, but in five years there will be no trace of the former beauty.

And if the walls can still be somehow “brought to life”, covered with a new layer of varnish, then what to do with the floor covering, which is subjected to heavy loads, is completely incomprehensible. But experienced builders know a fairly simple way to return wooden floor its former beauty. It's about scraping a wooden floor.

The name of the process - scraping - comes from special tool cycles, which for a long time removed the top layer of the wooden coating. A scraper is a small handle with metal plates attached to it.

Scraping was carried out until the first grinding machine was invented, which by now has completely replaced the scraper.

Such a machine can be of two types:

drum;
disk.

The use of drum machines is advisable only in cases where a large area of \u200b\u200bthe wooden floor is to be processed. The disadvantages of the machine include uneven scraping, which is why even the most experienced builder will not be able to withstand the entire surface of the floor at a single level. For this reason, today such a device is only removed old paint and carry out rough grinding wood.

Disc machines, unlike drum machines, do not have such disadvantages. Having appeared relatively recently, this equipment has already managed to gain popularity due to its absolutely flat surface, which remains after processing, without any stripes and drops. The cost of drum machines is quite high, so they are used mainly by professional and repair teams.

Note! According to the manufacturers, the scraping machines are able to restore the wooden floor by 90%.

First, find out if the old wooden floor can be sanded. To do this, swipe close examination. If you find that there is too much gap between the boards or they are damaged, then first replace the defective coating elements. Only after that start work.

What will be required in the work

For looping you will need:

scraping machine;
screwdriver;
curb sander or hand scraper;
abrasive sheets of various hardness;
polyethylene film;
mineral spirits (required for removing varnish).

Note! If it is planned to scrape the parquet, then the grinder must necessarily be a disc grinder (for 1 or 3 discs), but, for example, for wooden planks a drum-type device is also quite suitable.

Stage one. Room preparation

First, remove furniture and carpets from the room. Take framed photos and paintings as well bookshelves it is better to protect against dust penetration by covering with a large piece of film.

Dismantle interior door. Cover the opening with foil, fixing the edges with adhesive tape to prevent dust from entering neighboring rooms. Windows, on the contrary, open so that all the dust comes out.

Stage two. Floor preparation

If there are minor gaps between the floorboards, then they must be filled with filler, for example, sawdust. To remove old varnish, use mineral spirits and a scraper.

After that, wash the floor and let it dry thoroughly for 2-3 days.

After preparation, it remains only to purchase good headphones and a respirator. When cycling, the noise level and dust generation increase significantly, so think about safety measures.

Stage three. Cycling

There is an opinion that scraping is an extremely complex and time-consuming procedure. In fact, the most difficult thing is to hold the grinder in the desired position.

1. Beginning the process

Start by using coarse sanding sheets. This will help remove the remnants of the old coating, remove all defects and irregularities in the material.

Note! When working, always keep the wire from the scraping device on your shoulder so as not to accidentally damage it.

Before starting the machine, tilt it slightly, then gently lower it to the floor. You will notice the work of the tape immediately, since the device will be more difficult to hold in your hands. Move across the room, firmly holding the handle of the device. When you reach the opposite wall, gently lift it up and rotate it 180ᵒ.

Curly boards cycle a little differently. Move diagonally, that is, from one corner of the room to another. Do this several times, then repeat the procedure, but in the opposite direction. The smoothness of the floor after that will be perfect.

3. Grinding with medium grit sheets

At the end of the scraping of the curly boards, change the previous sheet to a medium grit. Move along the boards. Start with this, if the floor surface is not too damaged.

When finished processing, make sure that no sections have been skipped. Then take a fine-grained sheet and repeat the whole procedure.

After processing the floor, it remains only to cycle it near the walls. A curb scraper works great for this, start with medium grit sheets and finish with the thinnest disc.

Note! An ordinary scraper machine will not work for this, since it cannot boast of such thoroughness as a curb machine.

5. Completion of work

This is where the cycle ends. Sweep the floor and wipe it with a dry cloth, then apply the top coat.

Note! Do not leave the wooden floor untreated after grinding, because during operation it will quickly be damaged.

Separately, it is worth talking about such milestone preparation of the floor covering, like putty cracks. Use special putty pastes for this, which can be:

ready;
those that need to be mixed with a special putty composition.

Note! You should not follow the advice of a would-be specialist who insists that only cracks and other damaged areas need to be puttied - this will not give the desired effect.

Thoroughly mix the putty and apply it to the desired surface. Wait for it to dry (it will take about an hour), then follow the instructions.

Note! Do not immediately arrange furniture! Wait until the varnish is completely dry and crystallized.

Note! Lacquer coatings on water based they do not have any smell, but this cannot be said about polyurethane, for example.

As a conclusion

It is worth noting that not in all cases the wooden floor can be restored by sanding. It is recommended to entrust the process to specialists, but the work can be done independently.
For a detailed acquaintance with the cycling procedure, watch the proposed thematic video material.

Give the parquet a noble, well-groomed look or return the native “wooden” color to the painted floorboard? All this is easy to do with scraping and grinding. They even in professional performance are many times cheaper than complete replacement coatings! And if you are planning to sand the wooden floor with your own hands, we will tell you how to do it correctly so as not to make holes on the surface. Act like a master grinder and your parquet will be even and smooth!

Is it worth it to take on an independent scraping?

The web is full of stories about floors damaged due to inept handling of the grinder. Improper grinding results in pits and deep scratches on the surface. Usually they cannot be repaired and damaged parquets or boards are replaced. However, you risk getting the same consequences if you hire a not too diligent master.

On the other hand, there are a lot of stories about how people manage to polish the floor decently almost the first time and not spoil anything. So if you have the desire, time and physical strength, do not be afraid of "horror stories". Just be careful and don't rush.

Parquet board - it is too thin, and the risk of damaging the surface increases significantly.
Expensive art parquets - they have a lot of small, thin details from valuable breeds wood. And it is easier to damage them, and the mistake will cost more.

Also be sure to consider the financial side of the issue. Many are in favor of independent scraping, because they are convinced that it is cheaper. If you also want to save money, carefully calculate everything.

Thus, a daily rental of three grinders (drum, surface grinder and angle grinder) can cost the same amount as a professional sanding and polishing of a floor with an area of 20 square meters. m. And this is without taking into account Supplies! But if you plan to rent only a drum machine, then independent work, most likely, it will turn out cheaper than a professional one.

And some more theory. Now, when scraping, the top layer of wood is not cut off, but sanded off. Consequently, sanding is called rough grinding with a coarse-grained abrasive, during which varnish, paint, large irregularities, height differences, surface scratches, dents, etc. are removed. And grinding is often understood as a finer treatment, when an already cleaned, “peeled” floor is given perfect smoothness .

Thus, there is no clear division between the concepts of grinding and scraping. In practice, you will simply grind the floors with abrasives of different grits. And with a decrease in grain size, the surface of the parquet or board will become more even and smooth. BUT the main task scraping-polishing - remove from the floor minimum layer wood and at the same time maximally “erase” surface defects.

Equipment and materials

For work, parquet grinders (PShM) are needed. Buying them is expensive, but in any city such equipment is rented. The advantage is that modern PSHM are equipped with dust collectors, and almost all the dust will be sucked up by the machine right during grinding. The downside is the high power consumption of the equipment. The motors of various PSHM during operation “pull” from 1.3 to 2.8 kW, and they need an increased current to start. Make sure that the machines and wiring in your home can withstand such loads.

What exactly is needed for work:

Drum PShM. Suitable for scraping, removing old varnish and eliminating large irregularities. It can also be used to sand the surface with fine abrasive for varnishing. You will get a “budget” option - even after three-layer varnishing, the floor, polished only drum machine, will be a little rough.
surface grinding disk machine. Needed for fine, fine grinding. It is not necessary to use it, but then a mirror-smooth surface will not work. However, you still cannot turn a plank floor, plywood parquet or Soviet pine parquet into a “mirror”. For such coatings, a drum machine is quite enough.
Angle grinder for processing hard-to-reach areas in the corners and under the batteries ("boot"). On the "boot" you can save. But then, for rough grinding of complex areas, you will need a manual scraper. And fine processing will have to be done manually, with a piece of sandpaper. The dust will remain uncleaned.

Attention! Do not try to replace the angle grinder with a bowl grinder. Sanding parquet while holding a heavy tool is simply unrealistically difficult. Potholes in the floor are almost guaranteed. It is better to spend money on a "boot" or do not be lazy and handle the corners manually.

When renting a PSHM, be sure to ask the owner for advice:

Let them show you how to properly fill the emery. For a beginner, this is one of the most difficult and important points.
Ask the owner about the features of this particular machine. As a rule, LSMs that are leased are very intensively exploited and already have their own "whims". For example, they often loosen the eccentrics that fix the skin (in this case, it is enough to put a gasket under the eccentric, and the emery will hold securely).

In addition to grinders, you will need:

Sandpaper of different density. On average, 1 m of skins standard width enough for 10 sq. m of varnished or clean wooden surface. About twice as many abrasives are used on a painted floor, as paint particles clog them faster.
Discs for surface grinders. Approximately 3 pieces for every 20 sq. m floor.
Scissors.
Powerful construction vacuum cleaner. Try to rent it together with the PSHM. A household vacuum cleaner is unlikely to survive working with the smallest wood dust. And the quality of cleaning will be low, and subsequent varnishing will not give a mirror smoothness.
Personal protective equipment - a respirator petal, glasses, headphones or ear plugs (the grinder squeals loudly), work clothes with tight-fitting cuffs and a neck, a hat. PSHM dust collectors do not remove 100% of dust, and it is very dangerous for the respiratory system and can cause skin irritation. Plus, dust will be released when manual processing some areas of the floor. Don't risk your health.
If there are gaps in the floor, immediately buy putty, because it is necessary to putty the parquet or board before the last polishing. For 20 sq. m surface takes about 5 kg of putty mass. You also need a spatula.
Are you going to varnish the floor after sanding? Buy 5 kg parquet varnish for every 20 sq. m and a good microfiber roller. This tool is quite expensive, but only with it you can get an even coating.

Now about the choice of skins. For drum PShM, special sandpaper is produced. It has an arrow on the inside that indicates the direction of filling into the drum. Always load the abrasive in the direction of the arrow.

The skin also has a grain size marking, which is indicated after the letter "R". When sanding wooden floors, the following abrasives are used:

P24, P36, P40 - for rough grinding (sanding). P24 is needed only for the most uneven wooden floors and surfaces covered with several layers of paint. P36 and P40 are suitable for sanding bare or varnished plank floors, as well as varnished parquet.
P60, P80 - for fine (finishing) grinding. At the same time, with P60, work begins on a new, unvarnished, evenly laid parquet. Rougher sanding with P36 or P40 can be skipped in this case. With P80, the already sanded surface of the parquet or board is “polished”.
P100, P120 - for the finest finishing polishing of the floor before applying varnish or parquet oil and for interlayer grinding during varnishing.

How to choose the right emery? Depends on how many stages of grinding you plan:

As a rule, a four-stage treatment is used for a normal lacquered floor. They take the starting emery P40, then the intermediate P60 and P80 and the finishing P100 or P120.
If the floor is very even and the old lacquer layer is thin, you can do with three steps (with P40, P80 and P100-120).
For new, clean, even parquet, P60, P80 and P100-120 are suitable.
Starting with P24? Then take two intermediate abrasives - P40 and P80. Thin P100 - optional if you need to bring such a curved floor to a mirror state.

Preparing for scraping

Before starting work, both the floor itself and the entire room should be prepared. Keep in mind that dust-free sanding does not guarantee complete absence of dust. Some of it will end up in the air anyway. For work, this is not a problem - in a couple of hours the smallest dust particles will settle down, and you will completely remove them with a vacuum cleaner.

But if there are unprotected things in the room during grinding, they will pick up a lot of harmful dust. Therefore, all upholstered furniture, wall carpets, clothes and various little things must either be taken out of the room or completely covered with polyethylene and sealed with adhesive tape.

Also tightly close the doors to adjacent rooms. It is advisable to seal the cracks in the opening with masking tape. If you remove the door for grinding the threshold, then cover the opening with polyethylene or a wet cloth. Open windows wide during work.

How to prepare the floor for sanding:

Remove the plinth. This is not necessary if the plinth is wooden. But without it, it is more convenient to grind the floor against the wall. When removing the plinth, be careful not to tear off the parquet dies along with it.
Assess the condition of the parquet or boards. There is no need to scrape something that is already rotten, crumbling or not holding well. All repair work, the replacement of unusable parquet slabs and boards is carried out in advance. Before scraping, each element of the floor must be firmly attached to glue or nails. If there are loose boards in the room that provide access to communications under the floor, they should be screwed to the base with self-tapping screws.
Vacuum the floor thoroughly.
Check the surface for protruding nails. Press each nail with a hammer and a punch about 5 mm into the depth of the board. From protruding nails, sandpaper is torn, and the working elements of grinders deteriorate.

When everything is ready, put on goggles, a respirator, headphones and grab a grinder.

Before in the living room, practice working with the PSHM at least on a piece of plywood. Modern floor sanding is safer than the "classic" shear sander. But with a new grinder, you can make holes on the parquet floor. Therefore, do not give up training and start scraping from an inconspicuous corner of the room.

Getting started with a parquet sander:

Before starting, tilt the machine slightly to raise the drum or disc. After starting, wait until the sanding element picks up speed, and only then gently lower the machine to the floor. Hold it firmly with both hands. Turn off the PSHM in reverse order. Or turn the car engine on and off while driving. If you stop the PSHM in one place without lifting the drum, and only then press the shutdown button, the unit will have time to eat through a hole on the floor.
Once turn on grinder, immediately adjust the pressure of the drum on the floor (there is a special adjustment screw for this). If it is very low, then the surface will not be sanded well. When too high pressure the PSHM engine will receive an overload.

During grinding:

Always carry the cord from the machine on your shoulder. So he will not fall under the drum.
Constantly monitor the condition of the skin. If it is torn or clogged with dust, replace it immediately.
Regularly clean the dust collector of the PShM (collect the dust in a bag - it may be needed for puttying).
Move the machine evenly and continuously. Otherwise, a hole will appear at the place of stopping or delay.
Strictly adhere to the recommended direction of movement of the grinder on the floor.
Do not move very long across the grain of the wood. From this, parquet dies can be chipped. BUT plank floor transverse grinding is generally contraindicated. The drum or roller (for a tape PSHM) is comparable in radius to the natural deflection of the board. Getting into this deflection, he can instantly eat out a real gutter in the board.

Sanding and sanding wooden floors

Proceed in the following order:

Load the abrasive of the coarsest grit (P24 or P40) into the drum PSHM.
Start sanding from the corner of the room and move the machine to the opposite wall diagonally to the boards. If you have a herringbone parquet, then the direction of movement will be diagonally to the dice and parallel or perpendicular to the herringbone. Art parquet cycle in circular or spiral movements from the edges to the middle of the room, mosaic - diagonally to the largest elements.
When you reach the wall, carefully lift the car, turn it around its axis and move in the opposite direction. Do not stop the engine to turn around, but do not linger against the wall, so as not to make a hole. The new "track" should overlap the previous one with a 50% overlap. Thus, at the first stage, the entire floor will be treated with double polishing.
When you walk diagonally with a coarse-grained sandpaper the whole room, grind the corners and hard-to-reach places with an angle grinder with the same abrasive. Gently move the "boot" from the edge of the treated area to the wall. After the first stage of grinding, all batten should be stripped white. There will be no paint on it, no dirty top layer of wood, no large irregularities. But the risk from the abrasive will be clearly visible. This, in fact, ends what is called scraping. Next go grinding work, which will bring down the risk and make the surface smooth.
Replace the abrasive in the grinder with a finer one (P40 or P60). Move the implement perpendicular to the previous "tracks". Your task at this stage is to remove the risk left from the first treatment. Do not forget to clean the corners again with a “boot”.
At the third stage, you need a skin for fine grinding (from P80 to P120). Here you can use both drum and surface grinders. Sand the floor along the boards or laying parquet (if it is a herringbone, then the machine will move diagonally to the herringbone itself, parallel to one half of the dice and perpendicular to the other). After sanding the main area, process the corners. Your floor is now level and smooth.
Remove the dust remaining after grinding with a construction vacuum cleaner.
If necessary, putty the floor surface. To do this, use the finished paste desired color or mix the universal base with wood dust obtained during sanding. Use a spatula to apply the putty over the entire surface of the floor. If you putty only the areas with gaps, they will differ in color, and the floor will turn out to be spotty. Wait for the putty to dry.
Sand the floor with a fine abrasive (P80 and above) to remove excess putty.
Remove the dust. The surface is ready for varnishing (if you do not plan to varnish the floor, protect it with other means, such as special parquet oil).
Apply the first coat of varnish and wait for it to dry.
Treat the floor with P100 or P120 sandpaper. This is an interlayer grinding that will erase the raised pile.
Remove dust from the floor, walls, ceiling. Remove and dispose of all dusty films. Vacuum twice over all surfaces.
Cover the floor with two or three more coats of varnish. Each layer must dry completely before you apply the next.