Insulation for gas silicate walls as it should be. An effective method of insulating walls made of gas silicate blocks from the outside with mineral wool. What materials are used for thermal insulation

Foreword. How to properly insulate a house from gas silicate, how to insulate a house from gas silicate from the inside - these are the questions that owners of country houses from a gas silicate block ask themselves. In this article, we will consider the technology of insulating a gas silicate block, show a video of the best way to insulate a house from gas silicate from the outside and a master class on insulating a country house with thermal panels.

Insulation of the facade of the house from gas silicate blocks- this is a reliable preservation of heat, coziness and comfort of suburban housing, but is it necessary to insulate a house made of cellular concrete? By appointment, cellular concrete is divided into structural, structural and heat-insulating and heat-insulating. According to the method of production, concrete is divided into foam concrete, aerated concrete and aerated concrete. The cellular structure in blocks is formed with the help of gas, in foam concrete with the help of foam.

Read about the performance characteristics and properties of gas silicate in GOST 25820-83 Lightweight concrete, GOST 25820-2000 Specifications. If during construction, you choose cellular concrete, then the wall thickness is calculated on the basis of SNiP II-3-79 of 2005 "Construction Heat Engineering" and SNiP 23-01-99 of 2003 "Construction Climatology". According to these SNiP, based on modern standards for central Russia, the thickness of the walls of cellular blocks should be from 640 to 1070 mm.

Manufacturers of gas silicate blocks assure buyers that a wall thickness of 300 - 400 mm is sufficient for a residential building. But whether the manufacturers took into account the heat loss through the "cold bridges" (window lintels, mortar between the blocks and the reinforcement mesh) in the calculations is another question. It is better to calculate and decide with the help of designers how thick the walls should be made of blocks based on the frost resistance and density of the blocks, how to insulate the house from aerated concrete in order to maintain coziness and comfort in the house.

The better to insulate a house from gas silicate outside

Gas silicate blocks are widely used in private, low-rise construction. Gas silicate itself is a good heat insulator, but due to cold bridges, moisture absorption from blocks, masonry joints, it is additionally necessary to insulate buildings from gas silicate. This makes the question very relevant, how to independently insulate a house from gas silicate blocks, what materials to use in work?

Materials for insulating a house made of gas silicate from the outside can be different. Traditional heat-insulating materials are widely used today: mineral wool, polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam and "heat-insulating" plaster mixes. In Russia, they also began to use thermal panels for thermal protection of walls (thermal siding, heat siding), which combine high thermal insulation and excellent appearance.

It is possible to insulate a facade made of aerated concrete, like any other facade from the outside and from the inside. We wrote earlier about the insulation of the facade of the house under the siding with polystyrene foam and the insulation of the facade of the house under plaster with mineral wool. It is better not to insulate an aerated concrete wall from the inside with polystyrene foam, since in this case the blocks are not protected from freezing and moisture.

We insulate the gas silicate block with polystyrene foam and mineral wool

At insulation of a house from gas silicate blocks with polystyrene foam Do-it-yourself outside does not require additional vapor barrier. Expanded polystyrene plates are not afraid of moisture and are durable. The insulation is attached to the facade with glue, then it is additionally fixed with dish-shaped dowels. On top, you can apply plaster or make a facade of vinyl or metal siding.

To insulate a house from a gas silicate block with mineral wool outside on your own, you should first make a vertical crate on the facade, lay mineral wool between the bars. Since mineral wool absorbs moisture, it must be protected with a vapor barrier on both sides. On top of the insulation, you can fix the siding or plaster the facade for painting.

How to insulate a house from a gas silicate block with thermal panels

Thermal panels will cope with the protection of the housing wall from the outside from moisture and mechanical damage. Thermal panels are produced with natural stone finish, porcelain stoneware, clinker and ceramic tiles. There is an opinion among builders that it is better not to insulate gas silicate with thermal panels from the street, as this prevents the blocks from “breathing” and being ventilated.

Practice shows that a ventilated facade, ventilation holes in the basement of the building and under the roof canopy allows the wall to breathe normally without accumulating moisture. Thermal insulation of gas silicate walls from the outside with thermal panels has a number of advantages: durability, environmental friendliness, resistance to mechanical damage, ease and speed of installation.

To begin with, a crate of galvanized profiles or timber is attached to the gas silicate walls. Thermal panels are already attached to the crate. Expensive work of professional installers is not required. To install thermal panels on the crate, you will need a grinder, a jigsaw, a puncher, a screwdriver, a building level, a foam gun, and a little patience.

Video. Insulation of a house from a gas silicate block with thermal panels

To insulate a house of gas silicate blocks from the street with thermal panels on a gas silicate house, we fasten a crate so that a ventilated space remains between the thermal panels and the facade of the house. On the bottom of the wall we beat off a horizontal line with the help of a level. We set the starting bar along the line and fasten it with self-tapping screws using a puncher and a screwdriver.

We install suspensions above the starting bar. In these suspensions we install strips from a U-shaped profile (60 mm x 27 mm). We fix the guide strips with four self-tapping screws. In this way, we sheathe the guides around the entire perimeter of the wall of the house. In the corners of the house and on the slopes we put two strips. This is necessary for fixing corner elements and adjacent thermal panels on slopes.

Along the initial finish at the bottom of the basement, at the level of the starting bar, using the level, we set the ebb. Between the profiles we install mineral wool, you can also use expanded polystyrene plates. We fasten thermal panels to vertical profiles with self-tapping screws. All mounting gaps at the corners are sealed with foam. The seams between the thermal panels are carefully sealed with grout.

pro-insulation.rf

Reasons for warming

As you know, gas silicate is a porous material, which makes it warm. The thermal conductivity coefficient of cellular concrete (gas silicate) depends on the brand of this product (more details in the table), but in general, the thermal conductivity of gas silicate blocks is very low and therefore, in theory, it does not imply insulation. But not everything is so simple.

Due to their structure, the blocks are very easily saturated with water. This leads to the appearance of microcracks. As a result, the life and efficiency of the material is significantly reduced. Warming the house from gas silicate blocks from the outside solves this problem. Also, external insulation saves usable space inside the house.

Warming methods

So, how to insulate a house from gas silicate blocks? There are several ways:

• « Wet facade».

In this case, the insulation is glued to the walls of the house. This method is quite easy to perform even for those who have little experience in the construction business.

• "Ventilated facade".

This method implies a ventilated system and is more complicated than the previous method in execution.

materials

How to insulate a house from gas silicate blocks? There are several materials that are used as insulation for gas silicate blocks:

• Styrofoam;
• mineral wool;
• thermal panels.

Let's talk more about these materials.

Styrofoam

Styrofoam is one of the most common materials for facade insulation. Gas silicate walls are no exception. With its energy saving, it is also environmentally friendly and fireproof. Those who decide to insulate with foam plastic also note that it is quite cheap and easy to install.

What foam should be taken for such work? It all depends on your material well-being, but a fairly experienced specialist will say that it is better to make a 100 mm foam layer.

An experienced specialist will say that it is better to make a 100 mm foam layer.

Since the method of insulation for polystyrene is a "wet facade", the wall surface should be cleaned of debris and primed with a deep penetration primer. Experts advise repeating the priming procedure about five times.

Re-priming should be done only when the previous layer has dried.

The next step is pasting the foam directly onto the gas silicate blocks. For this, a dry mixture of glue is used. In the instructions on the packaging of this substance, you can find all the necessary details for working with glue.

Typically, country houses use gas silicate blocks of the D200 brand, so do not spare foam glue and apply it to the entire surface. Thus, the thermal insulation will fit snugly against the wall, which will favorably affect the insulation.

Styrofoam sheets should be fastened from the bottom up and only when the bottom sheet is already firmly glued. Why? This will help prevent the sheet from sliding off, breaking the level. For additional strength, you can install an L-shaped profile at the bottom, set according to the level.

In addition, foam boards should be fixed in the same way as bricklaying is done, that is, with a half-sheet shift. This will also increase the strength of the structure.

The gaps between the plates should be covered with glue or blown out with mounting foam. You can also do it a little differently. As mentioned above, it is advised to make a 100 mm foam layer. However, to achieve this, it is not necessary to buy plates of this thickness. It will be enough to have 50 mm plates, but glued in two layers so that the joints do not match. This will help you suffer less with blowing seams and the gas silicate insulation will be better. The downside is that this method will require a little more money.

When the glue has dried and set well, the foam is additionally fixed with plastic dowels-umbrellas. After that, a layer of glue is applied, into which the reinforcing mesh is embedded, and then, after it dries, another layer of glue is applied.

The finishing touch is the application of plaster and painting or decorative plaster. It all depends on your taste here.

Mineral wool

Gas silicate is a vapor-tight material, therefore mineral wool, whose vapor permeability is a well-known fact, is suitable for insulation. It also does not burn and performs soundproofing properties.

But there are also disadvantages. For example, cotton wool absorbs water and in case of any serious damage to the plaster layer or a crack, it loses thermal insulation. Therefore, not all experts agree on whether it is possible to insulate facades with it.

We cannot say directly whether or not we can insulate our house in this way, but in any case, if you still decide to choose mineral wool as a heater, its algorithm of actions is similar to foam fixing.

To begin with, it is worth cleaning the walls of debris and dust by priming the surface of the walls from the gas silicate block. And in this case, you should not be limited to one time either. It is better to repeat several times.

Installation of slabs of cotton wool is carried out in the same way as that of polystyrene. The first row is leveled and attached to the wall with glue and dowels, which are fixed at the joints and in the middle of the slab. The next row is also set with a shift of half a plate so that the seams do not match.

After installation, you should give the insulation time to stand and dry, and only after that you can continue to work.

The next step is to apply on mineral wool. A mesh is attached to this glue, which is slightly recessed. You also need to overlap 1 cm at the junction of the mesh. After the glue dries, apply another layer.

The final step is, of course, plastering. At the same time, the house "breathes" because the plaster allows steam to pass through. However, as already mentioned, be careful, because damage to the plaster layer will have a bad effect on thermal insulation.

uteplix.com

Gas silicate thermal insulation materials

For external insulation, mineral wool slabs or mats, polystyrene foam boards, polyurethane foam in slabs or foam are most often offered. In order to make the right choice, it is worth comparing the technical characteristics of gas silicate and the named heaters.

One of the positive qualities of gas silicate is vapor permeability, that is, the ability to let water vapor out. To preserve this property, it is necessary that the vapor permeability of the insulation is not less than that of masonry blocks. Let's compare vapor permeability in mg/m h Pa:

• gas silicate - 0.14 - 0.23;
• slabs and mats made of mineral wool - 0.3 - 0.6;
• polystyrene - 0.013 - 0.05;
• polyurethane foam - 0.0 - 0.05.

When comparing, we see that the vapor permeability is higher than that of gas silicate, only for mineral wool. This does not mean that it is impossible to insulate walls from a gas block with other heat insulators - it just requires a forced ventilation system in this case, which means additional costs.

Two common ways to insulate the outside

Builders most often offer one of two methods of insulation: a plaster system, it is also called the “wet method”, and a ventilated facade, it is also a dry method of insulation.

Wet facade

The stucco insulation system looks like this:

• outer wall;
• insulation;
• adhesive mixture with embedded reinforcing alkali-resistant plastic mesh;
• facade finish.

The method is good for independent implementation, since it does not require a frame and high qualification of the performer, however, such insulation can only be carried out at positive air temperatures.

Ventilated facade

A ventilated facade is considered by professionals to be more reliable and gives more options for home decoration. The insulation scheme looks like this:

• outer wall;
• load-bearing frame;
• insulation;
• wind and moisture protective membrane;
• ventilated gap of at least 40 mm;
• hinged facade.

To perform thermal insulation using this method, it will be necessary to build a frame with an accurate alignment of the facade surface, otherwise bumps will be visible on the facade.

A ventilated facade provides more opportunities for exterior decoration, work can be performed at negative temperatures down to minus 7 ° C, however, the performer requires skills in using construction tools.

Choosing a thermal insulation system, what is the best way to insulate gas silicate?

Both methods are suitable for insulating a house from gas silicate blocks, with one small caveat: if the house is built from high-quality certified blocks.

In the case of using low-grade handicraft material with low mechanical strength, the supporting frame will not be able to be fixed on the wall: the gas silicate will simply crumble when the dowel screws are screwed in.

Thermal insulation with mineral wool

For thermal insulation of walls made of gas silicate using a wet method, plates with a density of at least 150 kg / m3 are used. To determine the thickness of the heat insulator, a thermotechnical calculation of the external enclosing structures is carried out. For the Moscow region, a wall with a thickness of 400 mm is required to be insulated with a layer of mineral wool board of 80 mm.

Materials required for work:

• adhesive composition from dry building mixes (CCC);
• basement plank with a shelf width equal to the thickness of the mineral wool board layer along the perimeter of the house;
• insulation - basalt slabs;
• alkali-resistant plastic mesh over the facade area plus an additional layer to a height of 2 m;
• protective corner grids or an additional amount of grid for a width of 600 mm along the height of each corner of the walls;
• plastic corners to protect the inner corners of openings;
• plaster composition and vapor-permeable acrylic paint for finishing;
• dowel screws with a metal core and a thermally insulated head (fungi) at the rate of 5–6 pcs/m2.

Warming is carried out in several stages:

1. Substrate preparation - the walls are cleaned of dust, dirt, oil or solvent stains, excess mortar.
2. Installing a plinth to support the bottom plate and protect the insulation from rodents. The bar is fixed so that the shelf is 2 cm below the junction of the wall and the foundation.
3. On the back surface of the insulating plate along the perimeter with an indent of 1.5 ... 2 cm from the edge and 2 ... 3 marks in the center, an adhesive composition of CCC is applied. The adhesive should not get on the end of the insulation - this forms a cold bridge. The plate is installed in place in the lower left corner of the facade. The operation is repeated over the entire surface of the walls, from bottom to top, placing vertical seams between the plates at a distance of 300 mm.
4. Glue strips of heat insulator on the ends of the openings of windows and doors.
5. A day later, doweling of the plates is carried out, placing the dowel-screws in the corners and in the center of each plate, embedding the dowel head flush with the surface of the insulation. The overlaps of the plates at the corners are cut off, the seams with a width of more than 3 mm between the plates are filled with scraps of insulation.
6. A protective mesh is glued - an adhesive composition is applied to the surface of the basalt slab with a layer of 3–4 mm, a piece of mesh is applied and it is sunk into the adhesive composition with a spatula. In the corners of the house, special corner mesh elements or an additional layer of protective mesh are glued. With pieces of mesh 5x10 cm, they strengthen all the facade corners of the openings, stick special plastic corners on the inner corners of the openings. An additional layer of protective mesh is glued to a height of 2 m.
7. After complete drying of the adhesive composition for 97 days or according to the manufacturer's instructions, the surface is primed with an adhesive primer, and finishing is performed.

Thermal insulation with expanded polystyrene

To insulate the walls with polystyrene foam according to the ventilation facade system, you will need materials:

• adhesive composition from CCC;
• insulation - extruded polystyrene foam;
• dowel screws;
• plinth;
• lumber for the device of the supporting frame and counter-lattice;
• superdiffusion membrane;
• material for a hinged facade - siding, planken, lining.

Before starting work, decide on the direction of the decorative material strips - the supporting frame will be perpendicular to the direction of the facing strips. To simplify the work, it is desirable to draw a facade, mark the position of the lathing beam on it - the strips are fixed in increments of 600-5 mm, at the corners and edges of window and door openings.

Performing the work in stages:

1. Facade preparation - similar to the wet method.
2. Base plate installation.
3. Fastening the lathing beam to the dowel-screws.
4. Installation of expanded polystyrene plates on glue.
5. A day later - doweling.
6. Installation of a superdiffusion membrane - the panels are fastened with an overlap of 10 ... 15 cm on a vapor-permeable double-sided adhesive tape.
7. The device of a counter-lattice from a bar with a section of 40x40 mm.
8. Installation of a hinged facade.

Thermal insulation with thermal panels

Thermal panels - a composite material that combines a structural (bearing) layer, a layer of insulation (polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam or mineral wool board) and a finishing layer of ceramic or other facing tiles.

The use of this material speeds up the work, is not associated with seasonal restrictions, but due to the large weight of the panels, it requires the implementation of a supporting frame made of metal profiles.

The most commonly used profiles of galvanized roofing steel for fixing drywall. To perform thermal insulation you will need:

• drill;
• dowel screws;
• insulation;
• metallic profile;
• plinth plank.

The work algorithm repeats the technology of the ventilation facade system with the difference that the frame is not made of timber, but of metal:

1. Prepare the facade surface.
2. Mount the plinth.
3. A supporting frame is built from suspensions and profiles attached to them.
4. The insulation is mounted on glue, after a day it is fixed with dowels.
5. Install thermal panels.

Internal thermal insulation of the house

Gas silicate walls can also be insulated from the inside of the house, however, such insulation will eat up 10 cm of usable area along each wall, and then require forced ventilation to normalize the microclimate.

Mineral wool slabs or polystyrene foam can be used as a heat insulator, insulated both wet and dry. As a finish, plasterboard, chipboard or OSB lining is used.

Gas silicate blocks are an excellent masonry material, however, it should be purchased from trusted manufacturers, with a certificate of conformity, so as not to throw money away on low-quality handicraft material.

When performing work, it should be remembered that this material has low mechanical and impact strength, the use of an impact tool for a perforator is unacceptable.

Since the blocks have a high moisture absorption, it is advisable to hydrophobize them with a special primer before starting to stick the insulation.

1pofasadu.ru

Why is it important to insulate aerated concrete?

Since cellular concrete has such excellent thermal conductivity, the question arises: “Do I need to insulate a house made of aerated concrete?”. Let's find the answer together.

Due to its high porosity, aerated concrete has a high water absorption. And although moisture does not penetrate into the depth of the blocks, their outer layer is exposed to moisture and may collapse over time.

On a note! Aerated concrete dries quickly, and the absorbed moisture when falling outdoor temperature air does not destroy it from the inside, due to the fact that it is evenly distributed over the internal dry pores.

However, this is a matter of time, so the facade of an aerated concrete house must be reliably protected from moisture in order to extend the operational life of the building. In addition, in construction regions with severe winters, aerated concrete walls will have to be insulated in order to reduce their thickness, and hence the cost of construction as a whole. Do I need to insulate a house made of aerated concrete 400? The answer is unequivocal - yes.

Insulation of aerated concrete increases its thermal insulation qualities and increases its operational life. Most modern heaters have soundproofing properties, which increases the comfort of living.

Important! The material for the insulation of aerated concrete blocks must necessarily have vapor permeability. If, for example, expanded polystyrene is used, then an airtight finish must be made from the inside, preventing steam from penetrating into the thickness of the walls.

Warming method

If everything is clear with the need to insulate aerated concrete, then the question arises which option of insulation to choose - from the inside or outside.

With internal insulation, the useful area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room, which is occupied by the heater, is lost. In such a room, it will be necessary to provide a high-quality ventilation system, which will entail additional financial costs. The main disadvantage of such insulation of aerated concrete walls is the high probability of mold and fungus formation in the structure of the insulation material.

The positive quality of this method of insulation is that the work does not require the use of scaffolding. A more practical, and in most cases used method, is the external insulation of a house made of aerated concrete.

Of the positive qualities of external insulation of a residential building, the following can be noted:

1. Significantly increases the energy efficiency of the building by saving heating costs;
2. The soundproofing qualities of the outer walls are improved, which increases the comfort of living in the house;
3. The decorative appearance of the facades of the house increases;
4. Due to the protection of the load-bearing structures of the house from environmental influences, the operational life of the entire structure is significantly increased;
5. External insulation of an aerated concrete house can be carried out during the construction of a new or long-built house;

Important! Insulation of the house from the outside of aerated concrete, eliminates freezing of the walls and the formation of condensate from the inside.

Types of materials for insulating walls made of aerated concrete

How to insulate a house made of aerated concrete? There are several types of insulation materials that can be used to insulate walls made of aerated concrete blocks. They differ in cost and method of installation.

Aerated concrete walls can be insulated:

1. Styrofoam;
2. Penoplex;
3. mineral wool;
4. polyurethane foam;
5. Vermiculite.

Important! When choosing the better to insulate a house made of aerated concrete, it must be borne in mind that the insulation must have a small weight so that it can stay on the wall surface and not exert serious loads on it.

Each of them should be considered in more detail.

Styrofoam

Styrofoam is an ambiguous material for aerated concrete, but, nevertheless, it is often used. It is lightweight and easy to handle and install.

The price of this material is lower than for other types of insulation. Work on the insulation of the facade with this material can be done by hand, without having special building skills.

Aerated concrete refers to varieties of cellular concrete. The inner part of it consists of many voids that are filled with gas bubbles. They are formed at the time of production of these blocks. How the pores are distributed in concrete will depend on its technical properties.

Currently, many buildings - residential and industrial, are built from aerated concrete. Therefore, the question often arises as to whether it is possible to insulate a house made of aerated concrete with foam plastic.

• If we talk about houses built of bricks or panels, then foam plastic will definitely work well here. But in houses made of cellular aerated concrete, due to their insulation with foam, problems may arise.
• Proper insulation of a house made of aerated concrete should be carried out according to the principle of layering. On the inside of the room there is a layer of materials that have high heat conductivity and high heat capacity, which prevents steam from penetrating inside.
• This means that the interior of the building should consist of materials that have a thermal capacity, deaf, cold. And outside, materials are mounted that already have thermal qualities, which make it possible for steam to pass through, as well as having a small thermal inertia.
• So, all the moisture will come out, and outer part buildings to dry quietly. Styrofoam does not have throughput, so moisture will constantly accumulate in it.

On a note! If the walls are made of aerated concrete, then the moisture content of the structure will cause it to become looser, not so stable. Can't resist heat.

As a result, the insulation of a building made of aerated concrete blocks with foam plastic will lead to a change in the dew point, it will go inside. Therefore, condensation may form on the internal walls of the house. Further, mold will form in these places and a fungus will appear.

Of course, a person will face such problems immediately after construction, but after a while. This means that it is undesirable to insulate buildings made of aerated concrete with foam plastic, mineral wool or vermiculite slabs, which are also an excellent fire retardant material, are better suited.

Note! Of course, in areas where there is a constant humid climate, in no case should aerated concrete structures be insulated with foam plastic. This will cause the blocks to rot.

• But in drier regions, in practice, it is quite possible to insulate a house made of aerated concrete with foam plastic. Only for this, the preparation of the walls is first carefully carried out.
• Then work is carried out indoors, and the next stage is external insulation. After that, the finishing of all insulated places. If in some places blocks of aerated concrete cracked, they must immediately be glued or touched with cement mortar.
• Aerated concrete is an excellent building material. A residential building erected from it will be durable and warm. But aerated concrete must be insulated so that the building retains its reliability for many years.

Styrofoam with internal wall insulation can save heat well in the house, and at a relatively low cost.

But in the insulation of walls made of aerated concrete, it has many disadvantages:

1. The area in the room becomes smaller;
2. It will be necessary to make a good ventilation system so that condensate does not collect on the walls;
3. Styrofoam is a combustible material, while it releases toxins;
4. If we compare the foam with other heaters, then its thickness is much larger;
5. Styrofoam cannot be called a durable material;
6. You will have to put in a lot of effort and incur costs.

Outside, insulation of the house with polystyrene foam has some advantages:

1. The facade of the house made of aerated concrete becomes attractive;
2. Keeps the room warm;
3. The material is lightweight and does not exert a load on the wall and foundation;
4. Possesses sound-proof qualities;
5. The degree of sound insulation becomes better;
6. Possesses moisture resistance;
7. Styrofoam is resistant to biological impact;
8. There are no temperature fluctuations inside the building.

Styrofoam is produced and sold in the form of slabs of tightly pressed foam balls.

Installation of such a heater is carried out in the following sequence:

1. First prepare the base and, if necessary, level the aerated concrete wall. But in general, alignment may only be needed if the walls were built from non-autoclaved blocks;

1. The surface is cleaned and primed;
2. Fix the guide profile;

1. The insulation is fixed to the wall with a special glue or mounting foam;

Important! The adhesive is applied to the plate, and then applied to the wall.

1. After the glue dries, the foam boards are additionally fixed with plastic dowels;

1. Then it is necessary to make a decorative finish of the facade. A primer is applied to the foam walls and a fiberglass mesh is fixed;

1. To form even corners, perforated profiles are fixed on them;

1. Then, the surface of the walls is covered with reinforcing glue;
2. After that, the foam wall can be plastered or finish with other finishing material. Usually it is warm or decorative plaster.

Important! Due to moisture resistance, the foam reliably protects the wall surface from the effects of precipitation.

Penoplex

In the manufacture of extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex), high temperature and pressure are used.

The positive qualities of this material include the following:

1. Penoplex is produced in the form of plates having a smaller thickness than polystyrene;
2. Possesses vapor barrier properties;
3. It is a non-combustible material and does not contribute to the spread of fire, which is an important quality when using it for residential buildings.

Among the shortcomings can be noted the high cost. How to insulate a house with aerated concrete foam? The installation of this insulation on the walls is carried out in the same way as foam.

Mineral wool

This is a traditional insulating material. Available in slabs and rolls.

Of the positive qualities of such material, the following can be noted:

1. Mineral wool is a fire-resistant material and melts when ignited;
2. Produced from environmentally friendly clean materials therefore does not pose a risk to human health;
3. Possesses vapor permeability;
4. Has soundproofing properties;
5. Has a long service life;
6. Mineral wool is resistant to decay and microorganisms.

Important! Mineral wool must be properly waterproofed, as it allows moisture to pass through, which contributes to the formation of condensate. When finishing a facade insulated with mineral wool, you can not use acrylic plaster, which contributes to the formation of condensate.

Work sequence

Insulation of a house made of aerated concrete from the outside with mineral wool is carried out in the following sequence:

1. The aerated concrete wall is cleaned of contaminants and irregularities and seams are sealed with cement mortar;

Important! To improve the thermal insulation qualities of aerated concrete walls, it is recommended to use a special masonry adhesive when laying them, which allows you to form thin seams between the blocks.

1. In case of significant damage, to eliminate them, it is recommended to use vapor-permeable plaster, which is applied to a pre-primed wall;
2. Mineral wool is produced in the form of rectangular mats, therefore, to fix them in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe basement, a frame structure is mounted;
3. Beacons must be placed in the corners of the house;
4. The insulation is fastened to a special glue, which is applied to the plate along its perimeter and to the central part. To apply glue over the entire surface of the plate, you can use a metal spatula with teeth;

1. To avoid displacement of rows of slabs, it is necessary to exclude the formation of cruciform joints during their laying;
2. For additional fixation of the insulation, it is necessary to use dowels of plastic umbrellas, which are located in the corners of the plate and in the center;

Important! The joints of the plates should not have gaps that will be "cold bridges" and significantly worsen the thermal insulation properties of the material.

1. Many people think that mineral wool insulation does not have sufficient rigidity, and is only suitable for insulating ventilated facades. However, mineral wool, like aerated concrete itself, has different categories of stiffness. For example, the density of plates of the PZh-175 brand is much higher than that of the same foam, and they also serve as an excellent base for plastering;

1. An adhesive solution is applied to the insulation with a spatula, then the mesh is laid and covered with another adhesive layer;
2. The corners of walls, window and door openings are reinforced with perforated corners;
3. Finished walls can be plastered, pre-primed or covered with putty and painted.

polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam is the most suitable material for insulating aerated concrete walls. It is applied to the base using special equipment that sprays the material under pressure.

Of the positive qualities of this material, the following can be noted:

1. Due to the fact that the material is sprayed onto the surface of the wall, there is no need to store the insulation and organize its storage;
2. Polyurethane foam can be applied to an uneven wall, as it effectively fills in depressions and cracks, forming a durable monolithic seamless coating;
3. Thanks to spraying, such a heater covers even hard-to-reach places;
4. Polyurethane foam has good grip;
5. Facade insulation works are carried out faster, since there is no need for a frame.

Attention! But if you choose this method of insulation, then, as is the case with polystyrene foam and extruded polystyrene foam, care must be taken that the interior finish can prevent steam from penetrating into the walls. It can be: cement plaster, vinyl wallpaper, ceramic tiles, alkyd paints,

How to insulate a house made of aerated concrete using different methods of fixing insulation will be described below.

Methods for attaching insulation to the wall

There are several ways to fix the insulation to the wall of aerated concrete blocks:

1. When installing a hinged facade, a frame made of a metal profile or wood is fixed on the wall surface with a step equal to the width of the insulation. Laying of heat-insulating material is carried out in the intervals between the guides;

1. The “Wet facade” technology is performed in such a way that the material is fastened with glue and plastic dowels, followed by plastering the wall 2 times along the reinforcing mesh;

1. There is another way to insulate and clad the facade of an aerated concrete house, when the insulation material is fixed on hooks. Then the wall is reinforced with mesh and plastered. When the plaster is completely dry, the facade is faced with natural stone or brick.

The video in this article, which gives instructions on how to insulate a house made of aerated concrete, will help you decide on the choice of insulation. High-quality insulation of a house made of aerated concrete blocks improves the quality of living in it, increases energy efficiency and saves money on heating.

In a previous article, we talked about . Today we will talk about buildings made of foam concrete. One of the ways to save heat is to insulate the house from gas silicate blocks from the outside. Gas silicate blocks are distinguished by high heat transfer properties, so you should immediately protect your home from heat loss. Below you can find the answer to the question: "How to insulate a house from gas silicate blocks?". Following the method of warming a house from gas silicate blocks will help to avoid mistakes in the process. After all, the finishing of walls from gas silicate should be carried out taking into account such factors as climatic conditions, the thickness of the blocks and the specifics of construction. Still need to decide on the material for work.

Why is it necessary to insulate houses from gas silicate blocks?

External insulation is always better than internal insulation, since the dew point does not shift into the wall, but into the insulation layer.

Before insulating gas silicate blocks, which are cellular concrete, you need to familiarize yourself with their characteristics. In the construction market, gas silicate has gained great popularity for its high performance properties. This material is durable, environmentally friendly, soundproof and economical. Savings are provided by the preservation of heat. A building made of cellular concrete reduces heating costs by up to 40%.

But it is worth considering such a disadvantage as the ability to pass moisture. Gas silicate perfectly absorbs liquid due to its porous structure and masonry joints, so the wall should be protected. The solution to this problem will be the insulation of gas silicate from the outside.

Existing methods of insulation

Traditional materials for protection against moisture are:

• extruded polystyrene foam;
• mineral wool;
• Styrofoam;
• plaster mixes.

If we talk about new products that have appeared relatively recently on the building materials market, then we should mention thermal panels. They are distinguished not only by excellent protection against moisture, but also give a great look to the building. True, the cost is higher than that of conventional heaters. To insulate a wall of gas silicate blocks, you will need:

• one of the above materials for thermal insulation;
• glue;
• container for diluting glue;
• dowels;
• drill;
• level;
• fiberglass mesh;
• building level;
• putty knife;
• plaster;
• primer;
• perforator;
• dye.

This is the main thing you need to have before starting insulation. Then it is necessary to carry out all the preparatory work, which will ensure a quality result. To begin with, the wall is cleaned of dirt and dust. Is it necessary to insulate a house from gas silicate blocks without pre-cleaning? It is not recommended, because thorough cleaning ensures adhesion of the adhesive to the wall insulation.

You can clean the wall with a spray gun. This will ensure thorough dust removal. After cleaning, all visible irregularities and surface defects are eliminated. For this, plaster is used, and then a primer. The primer is applied with a brush, which will serve as an additional cleansing of debris. If irregularities are left, the insulation may be damaged.

The use of mineral wool for insulation

The mineral wool is glued to the universal construction adhesive and additionally nailed with dowels.

Gas silicate, as a vapor-permeable material, it is desirable to insulate with the fact that it also passes steam. Therefore, the insulation of gas silicate with mineral wool will extend the life of the walls and eliminate additional problems with internal insulation. After all, with vapor-tight external insulation in the house, you will have to additionally equip ventilation. Insulation with mineral wool provides additional sound insulation and gives an attractive appearance to the building. In addition, mineral wool has non-combustible properties. This material is purchased in slabs.

Work on insulation with mineral wool consists of the following stages:

• installation of mineral wool slabs;
• then you should leave the insulation for gas silicate blocks for a while so that it stands;
• installation of reinforcing mesh;
• a primer is applied;
• plaster is applied;
• painting is carried out, but only after the plaster has dried.

Leave a gap between the plates no more than 5 mm, otherwise cracks will appear.

A level is used to lay the first row of slabs evenly. They are installed on the principle of brickwork so that their seams do not match. They are attached to the wall with glue, which is used according to the instructions indicated on the package. Then additional fixation is carried out with dowels: in the middle of the plate and at the joints. A layer of glue is applied to the mineral wool, in which the mesh is embedded. It is necessary to overlap by 1 cm. After drying, a second layer of glue is applied. Plaster is a vapor-permeable material, therefore its application does not block the passage of steam in mineral wool and gas silicate. The house continues to breathe.

How to use expanded polystyrene to insulate a gas silicate house from the outside?

Concrete blocks can be insulated with foam plastic, the thickness of the insulation should be calculated based on the climatic zone.

This material is environmentally friendly, fireproof and durable. It also has high energy saving rates. The foam plastic thickness of 3 cm corresponds to 5.5 cm of mineral wool.

For work, foam plates are used. Insulation of the house with this material is carried out as follows:

• plates are mounted;
• after they should be left to settle for a day;
• tightened with dowels in the corners and in the middle;
• reinforcing mesh is attached;
• plaster is applied;
• insulation is being painted.

To avoid the glue from drying out, it should be applied only to part of the wall (for the bottom row of boards).

Expanded polystyrene is laid with glue. For even laying, a level is used, and for adhesion to the wall, the plates are slightly pressed. The seams of each row should not match, there is no need to leave a gap between the plates. This will ensure a secure bond. For high-quality reinforcement, the corners of the building are first strengthened, and then the rest of the surface. You need to move from top to bottom. Subject to this technology and obtaining a good result, the question of whether gas silicate can be insulated with foam plastic no longer arises.

Thermal insulation with thermal panels

Thermal panels - aesthetics and thermal insulation in one bottle.

Thermal panels for wall insulation from gas silicate blocks are a system of such components as insulation, cladding tiles and a moisture-resistant board. The insulation can be in the form of expanded polystyrene or polyurethane foam. The moisture-resistant board is a structural layer, and the facing board allows you to avoid work at the final stages - puttying and painting. The installation of thermal panels greatly facilitates the process of insulation. Installation of thermal panels is made on the crate of the wall, and not on the wall itself.

The crate is made of galvanized steel and is attached to the wall using a screwdriver, puncher, self-tapping screws and dowels. The design consists of L-shaped strips, suspensions, U-shaped profiles. After the installation is completed, a heater is laid in the frame of the profiles - expanded polystyrene or mineral wool. Then thermal panels are attached to the structural profiles.

How to insulate a bath from gas silicate blocks?

Regardless of the protective material, it is necessary to leave a ventilation gap to dry the heat insulator.

The warming of a bath made of gas silicate blocks is carried out in stages:

• protective material is attached;
• crate is mounted;
• lining is stuffed (lining is used).

Such materials for insulating a house from the outside of gas silicate, such as mineral wool or polystyrene, are used equally often. But which one to choose? Both heaters have their advantages and disadvantages. If we compare them, then:

• low cost of materials;
• polystyrene has good thermal insulation properties, and mineral wool has a higher thermal conductivity;
• polystyrene is more durable;
• polystyrene foam has increased flammability, while the second option is non-combustible.

Both options are good in their own way, but what is the best way to insulate gas silicate blocks? If we are talking about choosing a material for warming a bath, then it is better to focus on expanded polystyrene and its derivatives, because mineral wool absorbs more moisture that occurs due to a large temperature difference. The cost of both materials is quite acceptable. A higher price will be for insulation using thermal panels. But as a result, the house will have a whiter attractive appearance. The installation process of thermal panels can be seen on the video:

If you insulate a house from gas silicate blocks from the outside, you can achieve a very good effect in terms of savings on space heating. This is not a complicated and not too expensive process that will help you save good money on heating.

Gas silicate blocks: what is it?

Gas silicate blocks are one of the new building materials for building walls. It is characterized by high heat and sound insulation, lightness and large size. They are also low priced. But many companies inflate prices for both them and their masonry, so always check the prices in different sources, and, when hiring workers, the prices for laying gas silicate blocks. These allow you to quickly build energy-efficient buildings, but they are not very durable.

Why insulate a house from gas silicate blocks from the outside?

Many people ask themselves: “Why insulate such a house if it will be warm anyway?”. The goal is not only to increase heat savings, but also the special protection of gas silicate blocks, which will significantly extend the life of your home.

Gas silicate blocks have low resistance to moisture. They absorb it into themselves and, when frozen, can form microcracks that reduce their efficiency and strength. On average, this material is designed for 200 freezing cycles. During the winter, in unstable weather, more than 20 such cycles can take place, which means that the walls will last you about 10 years. Warming the outside with materials that absorb moisture helps to avoid these very processes, which will significantly extend the life of the house.

How to insulate a house from gas silicate blocks from the outside?

Such buildings are best insulated in two layers. The first is an insulating material that is able to absorb moisture, and the second is an external one that can withstand atmospheric influences.

As a warming material, the best option is to use isover. Isover is a modernized glass wool, which consists of organic fibers, which, in turn, are able to give and absorb moisture in significant quantities. Its feature is that moisture is retained strongly enough so that nearby surfaces remain practically dry.

Foreman's advice: some suggest using foam as a heater. This option is not bad, but not suitable for such buildings, since the foam does not absorb moisture, but, on the contrary, can lead to its accumulation, which will only help accelerate the process of block destruction.

A wide variety of materials can act as the second layer, all that are suitable for outdoor use. These can be plastic panels, wood or special boards made from complex polymers. The choice always remains with the consumer. It all depends on the desire and financial abilities.

One common option is to use plastic panels. They are relatively inexpensive and look great. There are a large number of colors, which allows you to decorate the outside of the house to the taste of any person.

Foreman's advice: You can save money on the outer skin, but in no case should you save on isover, because the effect of insulation and protection of your walls will depend on it.

The warming process is as follows:

1. Creating a frame outside the house - a frame is made to fix the insulation and plastic panels.
2. Strengthening the insulation in the frame - it is fixed so that it fits snugly against the wall of the house and does not have cracks and gaps. Thus, the ingress of moisture on the wall is almost completely excluded and the amount of condensate that forms on the walls during temperature changes is minimized.
3. Sewing the frame with an outer material - it is carried out so that there are no holes and cracks, which provides additional protection and simply provides a beautiful look.

Some materials for the top layer of insulation require additional finishing. Accordingly, you will need to choose the type of exterior finish to complete.

How much will home insulation save?

If a house made of gas silicate blocks is 20-25% more economical than conventional houses, then a house whose walls are insulated from the outside gives savings of up to 40%.

Such a house with insulation will help you reduce heating costs by almost 2 times, which is a pretty good indicator today.

How much does home insulation cost?

The cost of home insulation will depend on the choice of materials. When choosing materials, it is worth comparing materials in terms of efficiency in terms of thermal insulation, comparing prices in various stores and on the Internet, because the price of different suppliers can vary up to 20%.

No matter how much it costs you to insulate your home, it's all small compared to how much this home improvement can save you.

Warming the walls of the house solves a lot of problems, possible or already existing. The most serious of them is preventing the wall material from getting wet from the gradual accumulation of water vapor extruded from inside the house. There is no way to stop this process, it goes on constantly while people live in the house.

Uninsulated walls accumulate moisture, which either freezes on the outer side of the wall and destroys its material, or condenses on the inner surface, causing the wall to get wet, overgrown with mold or fungus.

Warming - the only procedure that can stop the condensation of moisture and ensure the removal of steam from the walls without loss of material quality.

As effective materials for insulation can be:

From a physics point of view, effective insulation transfers the dew point from the wall to the outside, best of all - into the insulation material. In other words, the presence of a properly installed insulation redistributes the temperature regime in the thickness of the walls, making them warmer and shifting the cold layers outward, which is why the area of ​​possible vapor condensation is outside the wall material.

At the same time, on the warm inner surface of the walls, the formation of condensate becomes simply impossible.

Such a process operates with the greatest impact only with the external location of the insulating material.

Distinguish between internal and external insulation. With an internal insulation, it is located on the inner surface of the wall, with an external one - outside. The effectiveness of internal insulation to a large extent depends on the ratio of the vapor permeability of the walls and insulation, which should create a greater barrier to steam than the wall.

Otherwise, the accumulation of steam and the wetting of materials at the insulation-wall boundary will begin (which is often observed). Usually, to protect against this, a solid cut-off is installed, which is why steam can only be removed with the help of enhanced ventilation of the room.

Wall insulation methods

In addition, the wall material ceases to receive heat from the inside, remaining only a mechanical barrier to external manifestations.

much more efficient and preferable. It is this technology that brings the dew point out, prevents the heat of the walls from dissipating into the outer space and helps to increase comfort inside the house. The exit of steam through the walls has no obstacles, it does not accumulate in the thickness of the wall or insulation.

In addition, there are many other advantages:

• The space is not reduced.
• The walls from the inside remain intact, it is not required to design the window blocks again with slopes and window sills.
• The composition of the indoor air does not contain excessive moisture.
• Additional sound insulation from external noise is created.

Therefore, internal insulation is performed only in addition to the external one or when it is physically impossible to work outside. Insulation from the outside starts the right processes, and the probability of error with this technology is much less, which allows you to do the work yourself.

The main types of heaters

There are quite a lot of materials for wall insulation, they are all have their own characteristics, their pros and cons. Today, materials from synthetics or natural minerals are considered the most suitable, because they have the most valuable qualities:

• They don't rot.
• Do not dissolve in water.
• Do not change their shape during prolonged use.
• They have low thermal conductivity.
• Are issued in a form, convenient for installation works.

Most of these properties are:

• Mineral wool (especially basalt wool),
• Styrofoam.
• Extruded polystyrene foam.
• Polyurethane foam.
• Foam concrete.

Most of the most suitable materials are in slab form. most suitable for wall mounting. Mineral wool is also available in rolls, but plates are more convenient, tougher, and have clearer dimensions.

What insulation is best for insulating a wall of gas silicate blocks?

Gas silicate is a porous material. It consists of almost 90% gas bubbles, which determines its properties - high heat retention, lightness. At the same time, it can absorb water, therefore, in order to maintain working qualities, a constant possibility of unhindered removal of moisture from the thickness of the blocks is required.

NOTE!

Of all the heaters used, the most suitable for gas silicate blocks is basalt (stone) wool.

The reasons for this lie in its properties: if the foam or polyurethane foam has an extremely low vapor permeability, then basalt wool passes steam well, contributing to its removal from the thickness of the gas silicate and the insulation itself.

In this combination, the wall cake works in an efficient manner, ensuring that steam flows freely in the desired direction.

Basalt (stone) wool

Insulation of gas silicate walls from the outside - the device of a wall cake

The composition of the wall cake for gas silicate blocks:

• Wall surface.
• Insulation layer - optimally, mineral wool (basalt).
• A layer of vapor-hydroprotective membrane.
• A counter-lattice that provides a ventilation gap for ventilation of the membrane surface and allows moisture to evaporate.
• Exterior sheathing - siding or similar, a layer of refractory or decorative bricks, etc.

As an option, an adhesive layer, a fiberglass mesh, a leveling layer of a primer are placed on the insulation and plastered.

wall pie

In some cases (for example, if the assembly was made on a cement mortar, and not on a special glue) a layer of vapor-conducting plaster can be applied directly on the gas silicate, to level the surface and create additional protection of gas silicate blocks from getting wet.

Hydro and vapor barrier

A vapor barrier is not used to cut off the insulation from the wall, as it will cause the accumulation of vapors escaping from the wall array and wetting the gas silicate.

On the contrary, free passage of steam through the mineral wool is required.

At the same time, atmospheric humidity can adversely affect the properties of the insulation, and mineral wool is prone to getting wet from the action of humidity.

The solution is the outer layer of a vapor barrier membrane that releases vapor from the inside, but does not allow moisture to pass through from the outside.

The installation of the membrane is done with the most continuous layer, horizontal stripes (starting from the bottom), with an overlap of layers of at least 15 cm and obligatory gluing of joints with a special adhesive tape.

CAREFULLY!

No holes or violations of the integrity of the vapor-hydroprotective layer are allowed!

With the finishing layer of plaster, the membrane is not installed, instead of it, layers of exterior finish are alternately applied (Glue-fiberglass mesh-primer-plaster), which together play the role of hydroprotection.

Sealing gaps and preparing the crate

Preparatory work before installing insulation - this is the application of a protective primer layer, leveling the surface and softening the conductivity of adhesive transitions between blocks.

After that on the surface of the wall several horizontal rows of wooden bars are installed the cross section of which is equal to the thickness of the insulation.

After installing the mineral wool, they will serve as a support for the slats of the counter-lattice, which is necessary to provide a ventilation gap and to install the outer skin. The bars are pre-coated with a layer of antiseptic(twice) to prevent rotting of the material.

Lathing installation

As an option - instead of bars, you can use a metal profile for drywall. The guides are installed in the same order, fastened to the wall with dowels and screws (always galvanized).

The counter-lattice can also consist of drywall guides. The connection of vertical strips with horizontal ones is made on regular screws for a drill.

Insulation of walls from gas silicate blocks outside with mineral wool

Consider the sequence of actions when insulating the outer wall with slab basalt wool.

1. Wall surface preparation, if necessary - applying a leveling layer of vapor-permeable plaster. Dismantling of external window slopes and other elements that interfere with the installation of insulation.
2. Installing horizontal bars (or drywall guides). The bottom row is located along the border of the basement (basement insulation), the subsequent ones are located with the calculation of dense laying of mineral wool slabs between them.
3. Mineral wool is installed on glue; dowels with wide caps serve as additional fasteners. A dry mix is ​​used as an adhesive, it is sold in paper bags (as for ceramic tiles). The choice of adhesive is made taking into account local climatic conditions.
4. Glue is recommended to be applied both on the mineral wool and on the wall, since mineral wool is a heterogeneous fibrous material with a loose surface that requires an increased consumption of glue.
5. To avoid the formation of cold bridges, the joints of mineral wool slabs should be glued with special adhesive tape or mounting foam.
6. Installation of a vapor-waterproofing membrane. Work is carried out from the bottom up, the rows of film are overlapped by 15 cm and glued with adhesive tape. The film is fastened with a stapler, additionally fixed with adhesive tape, nails or screws.
7. After installing the membrane, a vertical counter-lattice is mounted. The spacing of the rows is 0.6-1 m (depending on the facing material). The thickness of the planks should provide sufficient ventilation clearance - at least 3 cm.
8. Installing the outer cladding.

Sectional device

Installation of mineral plates

Insulation laying

Alternative insulation method

Insulation of gas silicate walls from the outside should be carried out taking into account the properties of the material, which is prone to getting wet and accumulating moisture in its thickness. Therefore, the main condition for ensuring the correct operation of the wall cake will be the unhindered exit of steam from the inside and reliable cut-off from moisture from the outside.

Then the insulation will be able to provide heat savings, the safety of the wall material and comfort in the room.

Useful video

Insulation of aerated concrete walls in a video tutorial:

In contact with

Gas silicate is a foamed material with a porous structure, which is obtained by combining white lime, quartz sand, water and aluminum powder in an autoclave furnace. In Russia, unlike in Europe, the mass construction of block gas silicate houses began recently. Insulate such a building or get by with wall decoration protective coatings, depends on the climatic zone, the thickness of the material and the specifics of the construction.

Is it necessary to insulate gas silicate blocks?

Gas silicate material is a good heat insulator. The air layers that linger in its pores prevent the penetration of cold air currents into the house. With high-quality installation on a special glue, the blocks fit as tightly as possible to each other. The adhesive layer is very thin, so the total area of ​​​​all cold bridges will be small.

Mineral wool insulation of walls made of gas silicate blocks, where half-brick masonry is used as a facing material, will be reliable, durable and environmentally friendly. A special ventilation gap several centimeters thick is tripled between the masonry and the gas silicate wall. Entrust all the work to the professionals of the "Project" company, who thoroughly know all the subtleties of this work.