Schemes for flooring on the ground in a house, basement, garage or bath

In houses without basements, the floor of the first floor can be made according to two schemes:

• with support on the ground - with a screed on the ground or on logs;
• based on walls - like a ceiling over a ventilated underground.

Which of the two options would be better and easier?

In homes without a basement, ground flooring is a popular solution for all ground floor spaces. Floors on the ground - cheap, simple and easy to perform, it is also beneficial to arrange in the basement, garage, bathhouse and other utility rooms. A simple design, the use of modern materials, the placement of a heating circuit in the floor (warm floor), make such floors comfortable and attractively priced.

In winter, the backfill under the floor always has a positive temperature. For this reason, the soil at the base of the foundation freezes less - the risk of frost heaving of the soil is reduced. In addition, the thickness of the thermal insulation of the floor on the ground may be less than that of the floor above the ventilated underground.

It is better to refuse the floor on the ground if it is necessary to backfill with soil at too high a height, more than 0.6-1 m. The cost of backfilling and compacting the soil in this case may be too high.

The floor on the ground is not suitable for buildings on a pile or columnar foundation with a grillage, which is located above the ground.

Three basic schemes for laying floors on the ground

In the first variant a concrete monolithic reinforced floor slab rests on load-bearing walls, Fig.1.

After the concrete hardens, the entire load is transferred to the walls. In this option, a monolithic reinforced concrete floor slab plays the role of a floor slab and must be calculated for the standard load of floors, have appropriate strength and reinforcement.

The soil is actually used here only as a temporary formwork when constructing a reinforced concrete floor slab. Such a floor is often referred to as a "suspended ground floor".

A suspended floor on the ground has to be done if there is a high risk of shrinkage of the soil under the floor. For example, when building a house on peat bogs or when the height of bulk soil is more than 600 mm. The thicker the backfill layer, the higher the risk of significant subsidence of the fill soil over time.

Second option - this is the floor on the foundation - a slab, when a reinforced concrete monolithic slab, poured onto the ground over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe building, serves as a support for the walls and the base for the floor, Fig.2.

Third option provides for the installation of a monolithic concrete slab or the laying of wooden logs in the gaps between the bearing walls supported by bulk soil.

Here, the floor slab or logs are not connected to the walls. The load of the floor is completely transferred to the bulk soil, Fig.3.

It is the last option to correctly call the floor on the ground, which will be our story.

Floors on the ground should provide:

• thermal insulation of premises from the conditions of energy saving;
• comfortable hygienic conditions for people;
• protection against penetration into the premises of ground moisture and gases - radioactive radon;
• prevent the accumulation of water vapor condensate inside the floor structure;
• reduce the transmission of impact noise to adjacent rooms along the building structures.

Backfilling a soil cushion for a floor on the ground

The surface of the future floor is raised to the required height by installing a cushion of non-porous soil.

Before starting work on backfilling, be sure to remove the top soil layer with vegetation. If this is not done, then the floor will begin to settle over time.

Any soil that can be easily compacted can be used as a material for the pillow device: sand, fine gravel, sand and gravel, and with a low level of groundwater - sandy loam and loam. It is advantageous to use the soil left in the area from, the well and (except for peat and black soil).

The soil of the pillow is carefully compacted in layers (not thicker than 15 cm.) by tamping with spilling the soil with water. The degree of soil compaction will be higher if a mechanical rammer is used.

Large crushed stone, broken bricks, pieces of concrete should not be laid in the pillow. There will still be voids between large fragments.

The thickness of the pillow from bulk soil is recommended to be made within 300-600 mm. It is still not possible to compact bulk soil to the state of natural soil. Therefore, the soil will settle over time. A thick layer of loose soil can lead to too much and uneven subsidence of the floor.

To protect against ground gases - radioactive radon, it is recommended to make a layer of compacted rubble or expanded clay in the pillow. This underlying capping layer is made 20 cm thick. The content of particles with a size of less than 4 mm in this layer should be no more than 10% by weight. The filtration layer must be ventilated.

The top layer of expanded clay, in addition to protection from gases, will serve as additional thermal insulation for the floor. For example, a layer of expanded clay with a thickness of 18 cm. in terms of heat-saving capacity corresponds to 50 mm. foam. To protect against punching of insulation boards and waterproofing films, which in some floor designs are laid directly on the backfill, a leveling layer of sand is poured over the compacted layer of crushed stone or expanded clay, twice the thickness of the backfill fraction.

Prior to filling the soil cushion, it is necessary to lay water and sewer pipes at the entrance to the house, as well as pipes of the soil ventilation heat exchanger. Or lay cases for mounting pipes in them in the future.

Ground floor construction

In private housing construction, the floor on the ground is arranged according to one of three options:

• ground floor with concrete screed;
• ground floor with dry screed;
• ground floor on wooden beams.

A concrete floor on the ground is noticeably more expensive in the device, but more reliable and durable than other designs.

Concrete floor on the ground

Floors on the ground are a multi-layer structure, Fig.4. Let's go through these layers from bottom to top:

1. Laid on a soil cushion ground filter materialmoisture contained in freshly placed concrete (e.g. polyethylene film at least 0.15 mm.). The film is put on the walls.
2. Along the perimeter of the walls of the room, to the total height of all layers of the floor, fix separating edge layer from strips with a thickness of 20 - 30 mm cut from insulation boards.
3. Then arrange a monolithic concrete floor preparation thickness 50-80 mm. from lean concrete of class B7.5-B10 on crushed stone fraction 5-20 mm. This is a technological layer designed for sticking waterproofing. The radius of the junction of concrete to the walls 50-80 mm. Concrete preparation can be reinforced with steel or fiberglass mesh. The mesh is laid in the lower part of the slab with a protective concrete layer of at least 30 mm. For reinforcing concrete foundations, it can alsouse steel fiber length 50-80 mm and diameter 0.3-1mm. At the time of hardening, the concrete is covered with a film or poured with water. Read:
4. For hardened concrete floor preparation bonded waterproofing. Or two layers of rolled waterproofing or roofing material on a bitumen basis are laid on the mastic with each layer being placed on the wall. Rolls are unrolled and joined with an overlap of 10 cm. Waterproofing is a barrier to moisture, and also serves as protection against the penetration of ground gases into the house. The waterproofing layer of the floor must always be connected to a similar waterproofing layer of the wall. Butt joints of film or roll materials must be sealed.
5. On a layer of hydro-gas insulation laying insulation boards. Extruded polystyrene foam will probably be the best option for floor insulation on the ground. Styrofoam is also used, with a density of at least PSB35 (residential premises) and PSB50 for heavy loads (garage). Styrofoam eventually collapses upon contact with bitumen and alkali (these are all cement-sand mortars). Therefore, before laying foam plastic on a polymer-bitumen coating, one layer of polyethylene film should be laid with an overlap of sheets 100-150 mm. The thickness of the insulation layer is determined by heat engineering calculation.
6. On the insulation layer laying underlayment(for example, a polyethylene film with a thickness of at least 0.15 mm.), which creates a barrier to the moisture contained in the freshly laid concrete floor screed.
7. Then lay a monolithic reinforced screed with a "warm floor" system (or without a system). When underfloor heating, it is necessary to provide expansion joints in the screed. Monolithic screed must be at least 60 thick mm. performed from concrete class not lower than B12.5 or from mortarbased on cement or gypsum binder with a compressive strength of at least 15 MPa(M150 kgf / cm 2). The screed is reinforced with welded steel mesh. The grid is laid in the lower part of the layer. Read: . For a more thorough leveling of the surface of the concrete screed, especially if the final floor is made of laminate or linoleum, a self-leveling mortar from factory-made dry mixes with a thickness of at least 3 cm.
8. For screed installing a clean floor.

This is a classic floor on the ground. On its basis, various versions are possible - both in design and in the materials used, both with and without insulation.

Option - concrete floor on the ground without concrete preparation

Using modern building materials, concrete floor on the ground is often done without a layer of concrete preparation. A layer of concrete preparation is needed as a basis for sticking rolled waterproofing on a paper or fabric basis impregnated with a polymer-bitumen composition.

In floors without concrete preparation as a waterproofing, a more durable polymer membrane specially designed for this purpose is used, a profiled film, which is laid directly on the soil cushion.

A profiled membrane is a high-density polyethylene (PVP) sheet with protrusions molded on the surface (usually spherical or in the form of a truncated cone) with a height of 7 to 20 mm. Available in density from 400 to 1000 g/m 2 and is supplied in rolls with a width of 0.5 to 3.0 m, length 20 m.

Due to the textured surface, the profiled membrane is securely fixed to the sandy base, without deforming or moving during installation.

Fixed into the sand base, the profiled membrane provides a solid surface suitable for laying thermal insulation and concrete.

The surface of the membranes can withstand the movement of workers and machines for transporting concrete mixtures and mortars without breaks (excluding tracked vehicles).

The service life of the profiled membrane is more than 60 years.

The profiled membrane is laid on a well-compacted sand cushion with spikes down. The spikes of the membrane will lock into the pillow.

The seams between the overlapped rolls are carefully glued with mastic.

The studded surface of the membrane gives it the necessary rigidity, which makes it possible to lay insulation boards directly on it and concrete the floor screed.

If extruded polystyrene foam boards with profiled joint joints are used for the construction of the thermal insulation layer, then such boards can be laid directly on the ground backfill.

Bedding of crushed stone or gravel with a thickness of at least 10 cm neutralizes the capillary rise of moisture from the soil.

The polymer film of waterproofing in this embodiment is laid on top of the insulation layer.

If the top layer of the soil cushion is poured out of expanded clay, then the insulation layer under the screed can be abandoned.

The thermal insulation properties of expanded clay depend on its bulk density. From expanded clay with a bulk density of 250–300 kg / m 3 it is enough to make a heat-insulating layer with a thickness of 25 cm. Expanded clay with a bulk density of 400–500 kg / m 3 to achieve the same thermal insulation capacity, you will have to lay a layer 45 thick cm. Expanded clay is poured in layers with a thickness of 15 cm and compacted with a manual or mechanical rammer. The easiest way to compact is multifraction expanded clay, which contains granules of different sizes.

Expanded clay is quite easily saturated with moisture from the underlying soil. Wet expanded clay reduces thermal insulation properties. For this reason, it is recommended to arrange a moisture barrier between the base soil and the expanded clay layer. A thick waterproofing film can serve as such a barrier.

Expanded clay concrete is coarse-pored without sandy encapsulated. Each expanded clay granule is enclosed in a waterproof cement capsule.

Durable, warm and with low water absorption will be the base for the floor, made of coarse-pored claydite concrete without sand.

Ground floor with dry screed

In floors on the ground as the upper bearing layer, instead of a concrete screed, in some cases it is advantageous to make a dry prefabricated screed from gypsum-fiber sheets, from sheets of waterproof plywood, as well as from prefabricated floor elements from different manufacturers.

For residential premises of the first floor of the house more simple and cheap option there will be a floor installation on the ground with a dry combined floor screed, Fig.5.

The floor with a prefabricated screed is afraid of flooding. Therefore, it should not be done in the basement, as well as in wet rooms - a bathroom, a boiler room.

The floor on the ground with a prefabricated screed consists of the following elements (positions in Fig. 5):

1 - Flooring - parquet, laminate or linoleum.

2 - Glue for joints of parquet and laminate.

3 - Standard underlay for flooring.

4 - Prefabricated screed from prefabricated elements or gypsum-fiber sheets, plywood, chipboard, OSB.

5 - Glue for assembling the screed.

6 - Leveling backfill - quartz or expanded clay sand.

7 - Communications pipe (water supply, heating, electrical wiring, etc.).

8 - Insulation of the pipe with porous-fibrous mats or polyethylene foam sleeves.

9 - Protective metal casing.

10 - Expansion dowel.

11 - Waterproofing - polyethylene film.

12 - Concrete reinforced base made of class B15 concrete.

13 - Foundation soil.

The device for adjoining the floor to the outer wall is shown in Fig. 6.

The positions in Fig. 6 are as follows:
1-2. Lacquered parquet, parquet, or laminate or linoleum.
3-4. Adhesive and primer for parquet, or standard underlay.
5. Prefabricated screed from prefabricated elements or gypsum fiber sheets, plywood, chipboard, OSB.
6. Water-dispersion adhesive for screed assembly.
7. Moisture insulation - polyethylene film.
8. Quartz sand.
9. Concrete base - reinforced concrete screed class B15.
10. Separating gasket made of waterproofing roll material.
11. Thermal insulation made of PSB 35 foam plastic or extruded polystyrene foam, according to the calculation thickness.
12. Foundation soil.
13. Plinth.
14. Self-tapping screw.
15. Outer wall.

As mentioned above, the soil cushion at the base of the floor always has a positive temperature and in itself has certain heat-insulating properties. In many cases, it is enough to additionally lay the insulation in a strip along the outer walls (pos. 11 in Fig. 6.) in order to obtain the required thermal insulation parameters for the floor without underfloor heating (without warm floors).

The thickness of the floor insulation on the ground

Fig.7. Be sure to lay insulation in the floor, along the perimeter of the outer walls, with a tape, at least 0.8 wide m. Outside, the foundation (basement) is insulated to a depth of up to 1 m.

The temperature of the soil under the floor, in the area adjacent to the plinth along the perimeter of the outer walls, depends quite strongly on the outside temperature. A cold bridge forms in this zone. Heat leaves the house through the floor, soil and plinth.

The soil temperature closer to the center of the house is always positive and depends little on the temperature outside. The soil is heated by the heat of the Earth.

Building regulations require that the area through which heat escapes must be insulated. For this, it is recommended to arrange thermal protection at two boundaries (Fig. 7):

1. Insulate outside the basement and foundation of the house to a depth of at least 1.0 m.
2. Lay a layer of horizontal thermal insulation in the floor structure along the perimeter of the outer walls. The width of the insulation tape along the outer walls is at least 0.8 m.(pos.11 in Fig. 6).

The thickness of the thermal insulation is calculated from the condition that the total resistance to heat transfer in the floor - soil - basement section must be no less than the same parameter for the outer wall.

Simply put, the total thickness of the basement plus floor insulation must be no less than the thickness of the outer wall insulation. For the climatic zone in the area of ​​Moscow, the total thickness of the foam insulation is at least 150 mm. For example, vertical thermal insulation on plinth 100 mm., plus 50 mm. horizontal tape in the floor along the perimeter of the outer walls.

When choosing the dimensions of the thermal insulation layer, it is also taken into account that the insulation of the foundation helps to reduce the depth of freezing of the soil under its sole.

These are the minimum requirements for floor insulation on the ground. It is clear that the larger the size of the heat-insulating layer, the higher the energy saving effect.

Lay thermal insulation under the entire floor surface in order to save energy, it is absolutely necessary only in the case of installing underfloor heating in the premises or building an energy-passive house.

In addition, a continuous layer of thermal insulation in the floor of the room is useful and necessary to improve the parameter heat absorption of the floor surface. The heat absorption of the floor surface is the property of the floor surface to absorb heat in contact with any objects (for example, the soles of the feet). This is especially important if the finished floor is made of ceramic or stone tiles, or other material with high thermal conductivity. Such a floor with insulation will feel warmer.

The heat absorption index of the floor surface for residential buildings should not be higher than 12 W / (m 2 ° С). A calculator to calculate this indicator can be found

Wooden floor on the ground on logs on a concrete screed

Base plate made of concrete class B 12.5, thickness 80 mm. on a layer of crushed stone, compacted into the ground to a depth of at least 40 mm.

Wooden bars - logs with a minimum section, width 80 mm. and height 40 mm., it is recommended to lay on the waterproofing layer in increments of 400-500 mm. For vertical alignment, they are placed on plastic pads in the form of two triangular wedges. By sliding or pushing the linings, the height of the lag is adjusted. Span between adjacent support points lag no more than 900 mm. Between the lags and the walls should leave a gap of 20-30 mm.

The joists lie freely without attachment to the base. At the time of installation of the subfloor, they can be fastened together with temporary bonds.

For the device of the subfloor, wood-based boards are usually used - OSB, chipboard, DSP. The thickness of the plates is not less than 24 mm. All joints of the plates must necessarily rely on the logs. Wooden lintels are installed under the joints of the plates between adjacent lags.

The subfloor can be made from a grooved floorboard. Such a floor made of high-quality boards can be used without a floor covering. Permissible moisture content of wood flooring materials is 12-18%.

If necessary, insulation can be laid in the space between the lags. Mineral wool slabs must be covered from above with a vapor-permeable film, which prevents the penetration of microparticles of insulation into the room.

Rolled waterproofing from bitumen or bitumen-polymer materials applied in two layers on the concrete underlying layer by melting (for welded roll materials) or by sticking on bitumen-polymer mastics. When installing pasting waterproofing, longitudinal and transverse overlapping of panels should be ensured at least 85 mm.

To ventilate the underground floor space on the ground along the logs, slots in the baseboards must be provided in the rooms. At least two opposite corners of the room leave holes with an area of ​​20-30 cm 2 .

Wooden floor on the ground on the logs on the posts

There is another constructive scheme of the floor - this is wooden floor on the ground on logs, laid on posts, Fig.5.

Positions in Fig.5.:
1-4 - Elements of the finishing floor.
5 —
6-7 - Glue and screws for assembling the screed.
8 - Wooden log.
9 - Wood leveling gasket.
10 - Waterproofing.
11 - Brick or concrete column.
12 - Foundation soil.

The device of the floor on the logs along the columns allows you to reduce the height of the soil cushion or completely abandon its device.

Floors, soils and foundations

Floors on the ground are not connected to the foundation and rest directly on the ground under the house. If heaving, then the floor in winter and spring can "walk" under the influence of forces.

To prevent this from happening, the heaving soil under the house must be made not to heave. The easiest way to do this, and the underground part

The design of pile foundations on bored (including TISE) and screw piles involves the installation of a cold base. Warming the soil under the house with such foundations is a rather problematic and expensive task. Floors on the ground in a house on a pile foundation can only be recommended for non-heaving or slightly heaving soils on the site.

When building a house on heaving soils, it is also necessary to have an underground part of the foundation to a depth of 0.5 - 1 m.

In a house with external multi-layer walls with insulation on the outside, a cold bridge is formed through the basement and the bearing part of the wall, bypassing the wall and floor insulation.

Properly chosen and arranged floor should not only be beautiful, safe and durable - it also creates a healthy living environment. In this topic of the week, together with specialists and users of our portal, we figure out which floor is better in: what materials and design should be chosen, how to properly mount, insulate and how to finish. And also we will help to solve problems with ready-made bases.

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The floor in the house can be different. The most environmentally friendly and comfortable - wooden floors. This is a warm material that will create coziness and better retain heat indoors. In addition, wood preserves the environmental friendliness of a wooden cottage. Concrete materials are more durable and stable, but they also require serious finishing and good insulation. A design that combines concrete and wood is considered popular today. Let's look at how to make a floor in a private house with your own hands.

Concrete floor installation

In order to properly install the concrete floor with your own hands, you first make markings, and the soil is covered with gravel for thermal insulation. Layers of sand are poured over the gravel, each layer is carefully rammed. Then the sand is covered with a waterproofing material in the form of a polyethylene film or sheets of roofing material.

On top of the waterproofing, insulation is laid in the form of crushed stone or another layer of gravel, then the waterproofing is laid again and only then a concrete screed is made. The solution is used only fresh brand not lower than M-300. To increase the strength of concrete, special plasticizer compounds are added to the mixture.

It is important to dry the concrete properly. Typically, this takes three to four weeks. During drying, the surface should be covered with a film and periodically wet the screed with water. Do not use heating elements and do not turn on the heating in the house before the concrete dries! Otherwise, the surface will crack.

To enhance the thermal insulation of the concrete floor, you can use additional heaters. From above, concrete is covered with wooden materials or a “warm floor” system is laid.

Wooden floor installation

Wooden floors are installed and fixed on logs, which are made from bars. Bars of wood, as a rule, are installed on a concrete screed. Such a multi-layer construction is a must for a house with a basement or basement. You will find many interesting projects of country cottages and country houses made of wood in the MariSrub catalog.

Since the floor is constantly subjected to mechanical stress, the wood for the structure must be durable and of high quality without chips, cracks and rot. For the floor in a private house, it is better to choose well-dried wooden materials with a moisture content of up to 12%. Give preference to conifers, including pine, larch and cedar.

If you decide to lay the floor in the house with your own hands, follow the following sequence of actions:

• Concrete screed and subfloor;
• Waterproofing and installation of logs;
• Thermal insulation;
• Another layer of thermal insulation and vapor barrier;
• Laying the main floor and finishing.

First, a concrete screed is made, then a waterproofing layer is laid. For waterproofing, it is better to take several sheets of roofing material and plastic wrap. Then the logs are installed so that the support pillars are located at a distance of one meter from each other. If there is a basement or basement, spans can be made larger. A heater is placed between the lags, and a vapor barrier film is covered on top.

For maximum effect, use a double floor. First, a subfloor is made from raw boards, which are laid on the floor. This design will protect the finished floor from displacement during shrinkage of the wooden floor. After installing the finishing floor. In the MariSrub company, the rough floor is already included in the price of the house kit!

In order for the structure to serve for a long time, wooden materials and each element made of wood are treated with special protective agents. These are antiseptics, flame retardants, special varnishes and paints. Such compositions preserve natural wood from the negative effects of moisture and insects.

Finishing the floor in a wooden house

Floor finishes vary. A rational option for a house made of logs or timber will be wooden materials. They harmoniously look in a wooden structure, retain environmental friendliness and the special atmosphere of wood. In addition, wood is easy to install and process. You can easily make a floor finish with your own hands, as well as achieve the desired color, shade and gloss of the surface. The wood is pleasant to the touch. It retains heat for a long time and does not overheat.

Today, the following types of wooden flooring are distinguished:

• Floor board - edged and planed board, which is characterized by aesthetics, accuracy and simplicity. Standard floorboards are perfect for giving, bath or summer house. They create coziness and comfort, while they are inexpensive.
• Parquet is a common option for finishing floors. This is an affordable, easy and quick to install natural wood material. After coating with paint and varnish, the parquet surface looks elegant and luxurious. It is suitable for finishing a spacious cottage and a house for permanent residence;
• Laminate is a high density fibreboard. It is more affordable than parquet, as it is not completely made from natural wood. But if you properly install and process this flooring, it will look attractive and last a long time;
• Cork flooring is a modern finishing option with enhanced sound and heat insulation properties. Cork flooring is characterized by a refined appearance and resistance to moisture, so it is suitable for any type of room.
• A massive board is an expensive material that is made from natural wood of elite species. Such a durable and high-quality coating lasts 40-50 years. The array looks luxurious and spectacular, but it does not tolerate increased humidity. It is suitable for finishing the floor in the living room.

For the kitchen, bathroom and bathroom, it is better to choose ceramic tiles, and for the basement or basement - linoleum. Wooden floors and coatings in such rooms are exposed to strong moisture, so they quickly collapse.

Do-it-yourself installation and finishing of the floor in a private house is a complex process that requires certain knowledge and skills. If the installation is not done correctly and the wooden elements are not treated with protective equipment, then soon the structure will crack, rot and lose its original appearance. To avoid such problems, contact the professionals!

Masters of the company "MariSrub" will help you choose the right materials, calculate the size and cost of the floors. They will reliably and promptly execute a design drawing, install a rough and finishing floor, install any floor covering and finish wood in a country house.

It's obvious that flooring process- one of the most serious and key stages of repair work, which requires maximum concentration and effort. Regardless of the choice of material, the floor will serve for a long time and effectively only in case of strict adherence to building technologies, rules and regulations.

Today we will talk about the construction of wooden floor structures in the premises of the first floor of a private house, using the standard method.

The construction of the structure will take place in five main stages

• installation of beams and log;
• arrangement of a waterproofing system;
• implementation of a draft version of the floor;
• implementation of the final version of the floor;
• flooring device.

Most often, the entire structure is installed on a number of prepared support posts or beams (concrete or brick). The empty space that remains between the ground and the floor plane is called the underground. This space should be ideally ventilated, only in this case the wood will remain in its optimal form for the maximum possible amount of time.

Important nuance. Before we start installation of wooden floor structures on the ground, you should find out - how close to the surface of the earth are groundwater. If they flow high enough, seriously moistening the soil, serious waterproofing of the entire system will be required. You will also have to arrange high-quality ventilation of the underground.

It should be remembered that the floors are subject to constant mechanical stress, in this regard, the wooden flooring should be chosen with great care.

In this case, the following points must be taken into account

• wood moisture content should be 12 percent. The durability of the material largely depends on this indicator;
• material with cracks or chips is a bad option. In this case, the likelihood of repair work in the near future is very high;
• wooden flooring should be treated with one of the types of reliable antiseptic, to increase the level of fire resistance and prevent pathogenic phenomena (fungus, etc.);
• the best solution would be to choose coniferous types of wood: fir, larch, pine, cedar. Among hardwoods, preference should be given to ash or oak.

The durability of wooden floors and the peculiarities of the microclimate in the premises of the house not least depend on the condition of the underground - ideally it should be dry and well ventilated. In order to equip an effective underground ventilation system, you will need to make the required number of holes around the perimeter of the plinths. It is worth foreseeing the likelihood of a snowy winter and removing several ventilation pipes with visors from the underground. You can increase the level of air circulation with the help of a window fan (or several). Do not forget about the possibility of penetration into the underground of small rodents - it will not be superfluous to install cellular gratings (cell up to 8 millimeters).

Most varieties of wooden floors in private houses are laid on a prepared system of support beams laid in the base of the foundation. It happens that the building construction project did not provide for the presence of support beams - in this case, support columns (concrete or brick) will be required.

If the laying of the beams took place together with the foundation, the required number of support posts will have to be made in a separate order.

It is important to correctly select the points for installing supports. For this purpose, a mark must be made on each of the embedded beams, and then the ropes must be pulled along the entire subfloor. Then we repeat the same procedure along the width. At the points where the ropes (cords) will intersect, the corners of the support posts should be located.

It is important to correctly determine the number of supports so that the interval between them is in the range from 70 centimeters to one meter.

Remember, the greater the thickness of the log or beams, the smaller the interval when installing supports. The size of each recess for the support post must be corresponding to the sides of the support. During the installation of supports, do not forget - the correct choice of its section will depend on the height of the column. The higher the support from ground level, the more difficult it is to ensure its stability.

So, at the designated points, we dig holes with a depth of 40 to 60 centimeters and lay the supports. In the variant with brick columns of small height (up to 25 centimeters), laying can be done in “one and a half” bricks, in the case of high supports, we work in 2 bricks. In order to increase the reliability of the support system, it is possible to fill the foundation under their foundations. Bricks are fixed with cement mortar and waterproofed.

The option with concrete columns is considered more reliable due to the use of reinforcement. The parameters of each side of the concrete column can vary from 40 to 50 centimeters, depending on the height of the support itself.

In order for the floor surface to be perfectly flat, it is important to monitor the observance of the horizon even at the stage of installing the supports. Therefore, we recommend that you regularly check their plane using the building level.

The next step is to remove the top layer of earth around the entire perimeter of the subfloor, level the surface, then alternately backfill the gravel and sand layers. Each of them must be watered and gently tamped. Ramming can be done using a vibrating plate or a homemade improvised tool.

So, three or four layers of waterproofing material should be laid on top of the supports. Next, we begin the installation of beams or logs, securely fixing them in their places. In principle, the logs can be laid directly on the supports, but if we want the floor to be really strong, we first need to lay the required number of beams. In the case when the lag or beam is shorter than necessary, the place of their junction should be laid on the support, connected to each other by the “lock” method and secured using self-tapping screws.

In order to securely fix the logs and beams on the tops of the support pillars, we need an appropriate number of metal corners. Fastening of the corners to the supports is carried out with the help of dowels, and for fastening to wooden surfaces it is better to use self-tapping screws.

Each beam and log should be carefully treated with an antiseptic composition.

If you suddenly find that the horizon for the supporting pillars is imperfectly maintained, it's not scary. If necessary, a special gasket or wedge can be placed under any of the sagging beams.

About single layer wooden field

Among the main methods of arranging a wooden floor in a country cottage, we first of all single out single-layer and two-layer options. Varieties of single-layer floors, as a rule, are performed during the construction and repair of country houses. Year-round use of such structures is possible only in conditions of sufficiently warm regions. If you need floors that will be warm all year round, it is better to choose the "double insulated" option.

So, to equip a single-layer wooden floor, we need to lay the log on the support pillars and fasten them. In order to make logs, we apply the required number of wooden bars measuring fifty by fifty millimeters. The next step is laying tongue-and-groove boards (thickness from 40 to 50 millimeters) and fastening them to the logs - for this we will use self-tapping screws or nails.

Speaking of flooring for a single wooden floor, we advise you to opt for linoleum or simple staining.

In some cases, in order to make the entire structure more durable, the beams are first laid on the supports, and only then comes the turn of the lag. A few more words about the support beams. The ideal material for manufacturing, perhaps, can be considered wooden beams, the thickness of which is 10 by 10 or 12 by 12 centimeters.

About the draft version of the two-layer floor

So, as mentioned above, if you plan to operate the cottage all year round, you will have to deal with the installation of a two-layer and insulated floor structure. Of course, in doing so, you will spend much more effort, time and money, but the level of return from such work will be completely different.

In this case, the sequence of our actions will be as follows

• we install the log on the system of support pillars, we carry out the fastening using self-tapping screws and metal corners;
• in each of the gaps, from the log to the log, a moisture-resistant plywood panel should be laid, so that each of its edges lies on the protruding section of the support column;
• all remaining free space must be filled with thermal insulation (clay with sawdust, glass wool, foam plastic, mineral wool);
• it's time to lay the subfloor. As a material, it is best to take the required number of boards, the thickness of which can be 15-50 millimeters. It is very important to carry out the correct processing of the boards in order to ensure that they fit as closely as possible to each other. Fixing the lag and boards is made using self-tapping screws.

An important nuance: the edges of the plank floor should be at least 15 millimeters from each of the walls. This is necessary to ensure ventilation and prevent possible swelling of the floor due to seasonal swelling of the wood.

Next, we proceed to laying layers of heat and waterproofing. We close the draft floors with polyethylene membranes (thickness - two hundred microns) and an additional layer of insulation (for example, foamed polyethylene). Each membrane (film) must be overlapped, its edges are glued with tape.

About laying a finishing floor

For the installation of finishing floor options, grooved or parquet boards, as well as plywood panels, are best suited. The latter, as a rule, are laid on top of the insulation and fastened with self-tapping screws diagonally and along the entire perimeter. Then the actual installation of the flooring begins.

About the grooved board option

The undoubted advantage of this material is that the floors made of grooved boards look aesthetically pleasing even without additional floor coverings - you just need to carefully apply the required number of layers of varnish or paint.

We will lay the tongue and groove board in the following sequence

• before the material goes into work, it must “lie down” in the room for 2-3 days, thus “getting used” to the microclimate of a particular room;
• it is necessary to indent from each wall at a distance of 15 millimeters in order to create a gap for ventilation and prevent floor blisters;
• the laying of the boards of the finishing floors occurs perpendicular to the boards of the rough floors. We start by laying the first row, clearly keeping the line - with spikes towards the wall. We fix each board using self-tapping screws, which must be screwed in such a way that the plinth closes them close to the wall. From opposite sides, screwing the screws into the grooves should occur at an angle of 45 degrees. The gaps between the edge boards and the walls are closed with special wooden spacers.

In cases where the floorboards are shorter than the length of the room, they are usually laid "in a row". Thus, an increase in the level of floor strength is ensured. The length of each screw should be several times the thickness of the boards. Holes for the entry of self-tapping screws should be prepared in advance, otherwise the board may be damaged (chip, crack, etc.).

Laying the next row of material (and each subsequent one) is carried out according to the principle "thorns - in the grooves of the boards of the previous row". We seal the boards with a special rubber hammer, then fasten them with self-tapping screws from the reverse sides into the grooves.

About the option with parquet board

Arrangement of finishing floors from massive parquet boards remains one of the most popular and sought-after options in private homes.

Several features of the optimal implementation of this process of laying parquet boards

• fastening of massive parquet boards by means of self-tapping screws can be done only from those sides where the spikes are located;
• the parquet board is laid out exclusively "in a row";
• in the version using a plywood base, it is recommended to first fix the boards “on glue”, and only then fasten them with self-tapping screws;
• the diagonal way of laying the parquet board makes it possible to visually enlarge the room.

Finally

Each of the wooden elements included in the floor structure must be treated with antiseptic and flame retardant compounds. Such processing will help to increase the period of trouble-free use of the structure. The work on laying wooden floors in the house can be considered finally completed after the application of the final floor coverings.

Do-it-yourself wooden flooring is quite possible, if you first study the instructions for this work. Boardwalk has always been more popular than floors made from other materials, as it differs from them in its natural warmth, environmental friendliness and the ability to create a specific, especially healthy microclimate in residential premises.

Most often, coniferous wood is selected for flooring in the house. Mostly larch is used, which shows particular resistance to both temperature extremes and high humidity. Due to the natural antiseptic qualities of this tree, destructive fungal formations do not appear on it, which means that the processes of decay and destruction are excluded.

Gender Requirements

Wooden flooring must meet certain requirements, without which the floors will not last long and will not be comfortable for residents. These criteria can be safely attributed to:

• Effective soundproofing and thermal insulation of rooms.
• Reliability and durability of a wooden covering.
• Wear resistance, and therefore - the durability of the floor.
• Moisture resistance and hygiene - cleaning the floor should not cause any particular difficulties.
• The aesthetics of wooden flooring - it should become a decoration of the room.
• Ease of installation work.

To achieve all the mentioned qualities of a wooden floor, you need to choose the right material for its installation.

Material selection criteria

In order for the floors to serve for a long time without drying out the boards and their deformation, when choosing wood, you need to pay attention to the following material parameters:

• grade. For a finish coating, it is better to choose the highest or first grade of the board, and for rough flooring, grade 2 ÷ 3 is usually bought. If the finished floor is covered with paint, then second-rate material is quite suitable for it.

The quality of the wood will directly depend on the grade of wood. Even when purchasing the highest grade material, it is necessary to pay attention to the presence of possible defects, such as chips, cracks and knots - they must either be completely absent, or be in a minimal amount.

• It is very important to pay attention to the drying of wood. It must have a certain humidity, otherwise, over the years, gaps will appear between the boards, and the floorboards themselves will become deformed. Humidity for finishing boards cannot exceed 12%, and for roughing - not more than 17%.
• The length of the bars and boards should ideally correspond to the length and width of the room where the floor will be laid.
• The standard thickness of floorboards is 120×25mm and 100×25mm. This parameter is selected depending on the step of laying the lag on which the boards will be fixed. According to the existing technology, these distances should be selected in accordance with the data given in the table:

Step between lags in mm	Floorboard thickness in mm
300	20
400	24
500	30
600	35
700	40
800	45
900	50
1000	55

When buying any building material, after the necessary calculations have been made, it is necessary to add 15% in reserve to this amount - this rule has been verified by experienced builders, therefore it is recommended to follow it.

Wood preparation

Before the process of installing the lag and flooring of the floorboards, they must be prepared. Usually, flooring material is sold already planed, but if burrs are detected during inspection, they must be removed with an electric planer.

Their installation is started only after the material has completely dried.

The choice of floor design

Knowing all the requirements that apply to the coating material, you need to decide on the design of the floor, since for each specific case its own option is suitable, depending on the conditions in which the installation will take place.

There are several main types of wooden floor designs:

• Floors on logs laid on floor beams. In this case, plywood or boards can be used for the finishing floor.
• "Floating" construction - boards laid on a concrete base, but not attached to it .
• Coating fixed on logs laid on the ground.

These methods of arranging a wooden floor have become the most popular, as they give creative freedom to the master, who can bring his own adjustments to the design. But, one way or another, for each room it is necessary to choose the only option that suits it to a greater extent.

Floor beam system

• Logs, as the basis for the floor, can be fixed to floor beams, which, in turn, are laid on a columnar or strip foundation. This is permissible if the room where the floor is arranged has a width of no more than 2.5 ÷ 3 m.

• To create an air gap, floor beams are often raised above the ground to a certain height, laying them on top waterproofed foundation surface. They can be rigidly fixed to it or simply securely laid on top. The second option is chosen in the event that the foundation has not yet had time to shrink, and when it does, it will not pull the floor system along with it, which will certainly begin to deform from such an impact.

• With a large width of the room (more than 3 meters), columns can be additionally installed between the walls, which will create rigidity for the floor system. Waterproofing is necessarily laid on all supporting structures under the beams of the base of the floor, so that the wooden parts serve as long as possible.

What should be the thickness of the lag and floor beams? This mainly depends on the width of the free span (distance between adjacent support points). Usually proceed from the following indicators (see table):

• After the floor beams are installed, the logs need to be fixed on them. The distance between them, as already mentioned, is calculated according to the thickness of the selected floorboards.

• When arranging such a “floating” floor structure, the logs, and then the boards, should be located at a distance of at least 12 ÷ 15 mm from the walls, that is, be independent of them. A material is laid in the opening between the walls and the floor system, which will not allow cold air to enter the room, allow the wood to “breathe”, and expand freely when temperature and humidity changes.
• When laying logs consisting of two separate sections, their overlapping by 400 ÷ 500 mm should be on the support posts or on the beam. The logs should be aligned with the building level, if necessary, to achieve an ideal horizontal, small pieces of wood are placed under the logs.
• After the logs are set and fixed, it is recommended to arrange a subfloor, for which low quality boards are quite suitable. To install them, cranial bars 30 × 50 mm in size are screwed on the entire length of the lag from below.

• The boards of the subfloor are not always fixed to the cranial bars, usually they are simply laid tightly to each other. A vapor barrier film is laid on top of the subfloor, fixing it with staples to the logs and boards.

• Between the lags, the vapor barrier is tightly laid - it can be mineral wool in mats or rolls, as well as dry filling from expanded clay or slag.

• Another layer of vapor barrier film is laid on top of the insulation. Its individual sheets are glued together with adhesive tape, and then the film is attached to the logs with staples.

• The top layer of vapor barrier is necessary so that dust and particles of insulation material cannot enter the living quarters. On top of this entire floor system, floorboards or thick plywood will then be laid.

Prices for various types of timber

Logs fixed to the concrete pavement

Often, to create a layer for the floor in apartments, a wooden floor on logs is also arranged on a concrete base. Here, the whole difficulty lies in leveling the lag on the surface, especially if it is planned to raise the wooden covering a few centimeters above the concrete slab.

If the apartment is located above the first floor, then most often the logs are laid out, leveled, and then fixed to the concrete base using anchors.

Both in the first and in the second version, the lags are drilled through. To raise the log above the base, use different metal and plastic elements. In this case, the photo shows the studs. They allow you to raise and lower the logs on one side or the other, aligning them in level. The extra piece of the hairpin, after removing the lag to the desired height, is cut off with a grinder.

In each of the options, a heater can be laid on the concrete between the lags, which will add thermal insulation to the coating, and also help to drown out the noise, both from the lower apartment and from the rooms where the logs are installed under the wooden floor. Mineral wool, polystyrene or can be used as an insulating material.

Flooring on concrete pavement

Sometimes a wooden floor is laid on a concrete floor without the use of a log. As a covering, floorboards or plywood are used. It is advisable to lay a thin insulating material under such a floor - most often foamed polyethylene is used for this, but it is better to choose one that has a foil coating.

Separate sheets of the substrate material are fastened together with adhesive tape to create a solid coating - it will make the floor warmer and drown out noise. If plywood is used for flooring, you need to remember that it is necessary to lay a decorative coating on top of it. Floors made of sufficiently thick boards will look respectable if they are varnished, waxed or of high quality paint.

Floor board installation

Having chosen the boards of the required thickness, it is important to determine the correct direction of their laying on the floor. As many years of experience show, the best option for laying boards is in the direction of natural light, that is, from the window. Therefore, planning the laying of the board should begin with marking and fixing the lag.

Floorboards have different types of connection:

1. Connection using an insert-liner in the grooves of two boards.

2. Groove-thorn connection in the presence of tongue-and-groove boards.

3. Connection "in a quarter".

The last type of connection is the easiest to install, so floorboards with such an attachment are most often used. In addition, the "quarter" connection creates a single coating with almost imperceptible gaps between the boards, so it optimally retains heat in the room.

Boards can be fixed to two ways of fastening:

• Nails or self-tapping screws can be driven into the groove located on the side of the board, at an angle of about 45 degrees, with the cap recessed into the wood. Some craftsmen prefer to do the opposite, driving the screws at an angle into the edge of the spike.

• In the second option, nails or self-tapping screws are driven in or screwed into the front plane of the board.

• Starting to install floorboards, it is necessary to step back from the wall 12 ÷ 15 mm. Later, a strip of insulation is laid in this gap, and closed with an installed plinth. It is necessary for the tree to expand with changes in humidity and air temperature.

• The board is attached to the joists with nails 80 ÷ 120 mm or self-tapping screws 70 ÷ 100 mm. Hats are driven under zatay”, later they are sealed with putty matched to the color of the wood.
• If insufficiently seasoned wood is used, then the laid floor requires a drying period that lasts 6 ÷ 8 months. During this time, the coating will shrink and shrink, gaps will increase between the boards, and therefore it will be necessary to carry out the process of relaying it. In this regard, during the initial laying of the flooring, all the floorboards are not completely nailed to the joists, but only the fifth - seventh board is attached. After drying the boards, they must be shifted, pressed as tightly as possible to each other and nailed to the logs.

• If boards with a tenon-groove connection are chosen, for a tighter connection, a mallet is used, with which, through the bar, the spikes are driven into the grooves. Often, special clamps are used for this master, especially in cases where, due to the slight curvature of the boards, the installation goes with smearing the grooves and spikes with carpentry glue.
• For a tight connection of the last board, installed against the wall, temporary wooden wedges are used, they are driven in between the wall and the board.
• The gap between the boards should not be wider than 1 mm. If the board is not installed in the groove to the end, then, most likely, a burr or some kind of roughness remains on the canvas, and this flaw must be removed, the spike must be adjusted to the groove.

Find out and also review the causes of squeaking and how to fix it, from our new article.

Video: flooring with clamps

flooring prices

Floor coverings

Floor surface treatment after final laying

After the floor has been sorted out and secured, it may be necessary to scrape its surface. This process is carried out if, during the drying of the board, it led a little, and the surface became uneven.

The starting varnish helps to reveal insufficiently smooth areas on the surface of the boards, and therefore, after it dries, it is easier to find roughness and carry out their additional sanding.

After grinding, skirting boards are installed, which will well hide the gaps between the wall and the floor boards. If, as a result of this operation, gaps remain between the floor and the plinth, then they are sealed with putty to match the color of the wood.

Now that the floor is prepared in this way, you can proceed to the final coating of the surface with wax, oil, varnish or paint.

The plank flooring is covered with a finishing compound not only to give it aesthetics and respectability, but also to protect it, which means maximum long-term operation.

Oil treatment

If the boards have a beautiful pronounced textured pattern, then special oil is often used to cover it. It makes the floors warmer, not as slippery as when coated, and also gives it antistatic properties. The oil penetrates into the structure of the wood and reliably protects it from the penetration of moisture from the outside, practically repelling it.

Wood coated with oil is less susceptible to various damages, and existing flaws become virtually invisible. The oil does not clog the pores of the wood, preserving its naturalness, allowing the material to "breathe", which creates a favorable microclimate in the living room.

Floors that are covered with oil must be protected from dust until it is completely absorbed. During operation, such a floor requires special care with special means. It is very important to remember that it is not recommended to place furniture with metal legs on such a surface, as there is a risk of unwanted reactions, as a result of which dark spots may remain on the wood.

Oil flooring is recommended in rooms with high humidity - this is a bathroom, terrace and kitchen. Such a coating is also well suited for a hallway or corridor, since boards impregnated with such a substance are more resistant to abrasion.

There are flooring compositions that do not consist of pure oil, but with the addition of liquid wax to it, which gives the floor a matte, soft sheen. Pure oils are also applied to the surface of wood, they are well absorbed into the surface, economical in application and do not require a long wait to dry.

Floor oil can be colorless, or it can have different shades that make the wood darker or give it a special, pleasant and warm color.

The oil is applied in two or three doses. It can be rubbed or applied with a brush, and its excess is immediately erased to avoid the formation of a film on top, which will create an uneven coating.

The oil composition can be applied hot and cold in several layers. The faster the wood absorbs the oil, the more layers will need to be applied. The heated composition penetrates much faster and deeper into the pores of the tree, and such a coating lasts much longer than with a cold application method.

Waxing the floor surface

Wax is most often combined with an oil coating. So, sometimes waxing occurs with a composition that consists of natural beeswax and linseed oil. Such a coating protects the floor surfaces well from scratches and dirt, as well as from moisture absorption, but will not protect the wood from cracking and intense mechanical stress. Wax coating gives the surface a pleasant matte sheen and a golden hue.

Wax is applied to the cleaned floor with a wide roller in several layers. The first of them must be very thin in order to be well absorbed into the surface. Next, the floor is sanded, and then it is covered with another layer of the composition and sanded again.

Wax combined with oil is an environmentally friendly topcoat and is very good for use in children's rooms and adult bedrooms. Wood that has undergone such processing has the properties to "breathe", so the floors will last a long time and create a favorable microclimate in the room.

Wood floor varnishing

• The varnish can be applied by brush, roller or trowel at room temperature, moderate humidity and without drafts.
• On the cleaned surface, the first layer is applied nitrolac, which will serve as a kind of primer for the finishing layers of the composition. It is applied in a thin layer along the textured wood pattern. If necessary, the primer can be applied in two layers.
• After the primer dries, the surface is well sanded with sandpaper. After that, the floor is washed with soapy water, thoroughly wiped and dried.
• After that, proceed to the application of finishing layers. There can be two or three of them, and each of them is dried and polished.

Applying varnish to floors is a rather complicated undertaking that requires careful selection of the composition for a particular type of wood. Therefore, if this particular method of processing a wooden floor is chosen, it is better to entrust the work to a specialist who will determine the amount of work and select the necessary materials.

The lacquer coating is quite fragile, which is easily damaged by mechanical stress, so it is undesirable to walk on thin heels or move furniture on it. In addition, varnishes are most often produced on chemical bases, which, by clogging the pores of wood, do not allow it to “breathe”.

Staining a wooden floor

Recently, paint is rarely used to cover a wooden floor, but it still happens, especially in cases where a special interior style is chosen. In addition, paint is used in cases where it is necessary to cover a not very attractive view of wood, since such a coating completely covers the floor surface. For such finishing, you can choose paints on different bases: oil, enamel, nitrocellulose, as well as acrylic, water-dispersion and latex.

Water-based paints are preferable for residential premises, as they do not contain solvents and additives harmful to the human body. They are produced in different color shades, so there is always an opportunity to choose the one that is more suitable for a particular interior.

Enamels and other paints based on chemical solvents are also used for living rooms, but after their application, the premises require long-term ventilation, as these fumes can pose a threat to human health.

Before painting the floor with water-based compounds, the boards are coated with a special primer. For the rest of the coating materials, preparation of the base is required with the help of impregnating compounds, in which drying oil usually acts as the main component.

The paint can be applied in one, two coats or, last resort, at three o'clok. It is recommended to choose the “golden mean”, since the paint, applied too thin, will quickly begin to wear out, and thick, on the contrary, peel off. Each coat of primer or paint must dry well before the next is applied.

It is described in great detail in the corresponding publication of our portal.

So, if you have the basic concepts of working with wood, as well as the necessary materials and tools, it is quite possible to try to lay the floors from boards or plywood on your own. If you have any questions, you can always turn for clarification and advice to articles that will help solve any problem. And at the end of the article - another interesting video on the technology of laying a wooden floor.

Video: how to prepare and lay a wooden floor