The roof made of bituminous soft tiles is easy to use, durable and aesthetic. Its big plus is that self-assembly is quite possible. The technology is not the most complicated, the weight of the fragment is small, it is attached to the adhesive base, additionally fixed with roofing nails. So the installation of soft tiles with your own hands can be done even alone.
Roofing cake for soft tiles
The attic under the roof can be warm or cold, depending on this, the composition of the roofing cake changes. But its part from the rafters and above always remains unchanged:
- waterproofing is stuffed on the rafters;
- on it - bars with a thickness of at least 30 mm;
- solid flooring.
Here we will consider these materials in more detail - from what and how to make, what features each of them has.
Waterproofing
Waterproofing membranes are available in one, two or three layers. Single-layer membranes - the simplest and cheapest, perform only a dual task - do not allow moisture to pass towards the room and release vapors to the outside. In such a simple way, the attic is not only protected from the penetration of condensate or suddenly leaked precipitation, but also excess moisture that accompanies human life is removed from the air. Single-layer membranes are poorly represented on the market. Practically they are produced by one company - Tyvek.
Two and three-layer membranes are more durable. They, in addition to the waterproofing layer, also have a layer that gives greater tensile strength. The third layer, if any, is the absorbent layer. That is, even if a drop of condensate has formed on the surface of the membrane, this layer absorbs it into itself, preventing it from spilling onto other materials. With sufficient ventilation, moisture from this layer gradually evaporates and is carried away by air currents.
Three-layer membranes (for example, EUROTOP N35, RANKKA, YUTAKON) are desirable if your attic is insulated and mineral wool is used as a heater. It is afraid of getting wet and with an increase in humidity by 10% loses half of its thermal insulation properties.
If there is a cold attic under the soft tiles, it is advisable to use a two-layer waterproofing membrane. In terms of strength, it is much better than single-layer ones, and at a price it is only a little more expensive.
crate
On top of the waterproofing film, parallel to the overhang, the lathing strips are stuffed. They are necessary to create a ventilation gap. It will help maintain the normal humidity of roofing materials.
The crate is made of coniferous boards (mainly pine). The thickness of the boards is at least 30 mm. This is the minimum gap that will ensure the normal movement of air in the under-roof space. Before laying, the wood must be treated with an impregnation that protects against pests and fungi; after drying this layer, it is also treated with fire retardants, which reduce the combustibility of wood.
The minimum length of the board for the crate is at least two spans of rafters. They are attached and connected above the rafter legs. You can't connect them anywhere else.
Flooring
The flooring under soft tiles is made solid. Materials are selected based on the fact that nails must be driven into it, therefore they are usually used:
- OSB 3;
- moisture resistant plywood;
- tongue-and-groove or edged board of the same thickness (25 mm) with a moisture content of not more than 20%.
When laying flooring under soft tiles, it is necessary to leave gaps between the elements to compensate for thermal expansion. When using plywood or OSB, the gap is 3 mm, between edged boards 1-5 mm. Sheet material is fastened with a run-out of seams, that is, so that the joints are not continuous. Fasten the OSB with self-tapping screws or ruffed nails.
Using boards as flooring, it is necessary to ensure that the annual rings of the wood are directed downwards. With the reverse arrangement, they will be arched, soft tiles will be lifted, the tightness of the coating may be broken. There is another trick that will keep the wooden flooring even if the moisture content of the boards is above 20%. When laying the ends of the boards, they are additionally fastened with two nails or self-tapping screws hammered close to the edge. This additional fastener will prevent the boards from bending during shrinkage.
The choice of the thickness of the material for flooring under soft tiles depends on the pitch of the crate. The larger the pitch, the thicker the flooring required. The best option is a frequent step and thin plates. In this case, a light but rigid base is obtained.
Another point concerns the installation of flooring for soft tiles around the chimney pipe. With a brick pipe, the width of which is more than 50 cm, a groove is made behind it (pictured). This design, reminiscent of a mini-roof. It separates the rain streams, they roll down the sides of the pipe without flowing into the under-roof space.
After installing the flooring, its geometry is checked. The length is measured, the width of the slope at the top and bottom, the height of the slope on both sides, the diagonals are measured. And the last check - tracking the plane - the entire slope must lie entirely in the same plane.
Soft tile roofing technology
When buying, you will most likely be provided with instructions for which the installation of soft tiles will be described step by step and in detail, indicating all the exact dimensions that this particular manufacturer requires. These recommendations should be followed. However, it is worth getting acquainted with the order of work and their volumes ahead of time - in order to understand the intricacies of installation and the required amount of materials.
We must say right away that it is necessary to handle soft tiles when laying carefully - she does not like it if she is bent. Therefore, try not to bend or crush the shingles unnecessarily (this is one fragment consisting of a visible and mounting part).
Overhang reinforcement
The drip bar is installed first. This is an L-shaped sheet of metal coated with paint or polymer composition. Polymer coating is more expensive, but also more reliable. The color is selected close to the color of bituminous tiles.
Drip bar installed along the roof overhangs
The task of the drip bar is to protect the crate, sections of rafters and flooring from moisture. With one edge, the dropper is laid on the flooring, with the second it closes the overhang. It is fastened with galvanized (stainless steel) nails, which are hammered in a checkerboard pattern (one is closer to the fold, the second is almost at the edge). Fastener installation step - 20-25 cm.
The drip bar is sold in two-meter pieces. Having laid the first element, the second is fixed with an overlap of at least 3 cm. If desired, the gap can be closed: grease the joint with bituminous mastic, fill it with sealant. At the same stage, it is mounted, in any case, hooks are nailed that will hold the gutters.
Laying waterproofing carpet
Regardless of the angle of the roof, a waterproofing lining must be laid in and along the slope. It is sold in meter wide rolls. An adhesive is applied to the underside, covered with a protective film or paper. Before laying, the paper is removed, the valley carpet is glued to the flooring.
Installation of a waterproofing carpet begins with laying it in the valley. Roll out the material of a meter width, distributing 50 cm on both sides of the bend. Here it is desirable to do without joints, but, if necessary, the overlap of two canvases should be at least 15 cm. Laying goes from bottom to top, the junction is additionally coated with bitumen mastic, the material is well pressed.
Next, a waterproofing carpet for flexible tiles is laid along the cornice overhang. The minimum width of the carpet on the cornice overhang is the size of the overhang itself, plus 60 cm. First, the carpet is rolled out, if necessary, cut, then the protective film is removed from the inside and glued to the substrate. Additionally, they are fixed along the edges with stainless steel or galvanized nails with a large flat hat (step 20-25 cm).
In places of a horizontal joint, the overlap of two canvases is at least 10 cm, in the vertical direction - at least 15 cm. All joints are additionally smeared with bituminous mastic, the material is crimped.
Lining carpet
The lining carpet, as well as the waterproofing carpet, is sold in rolls of meter width, the back side is covered with an adhesive. The laying method depends on the slope of the roof and on the profile of the selected shingles.
When using shingles with cuts (such as Jazz, Trio, Beaver tail), regardless of the slope, the lining carpet is spread over the entire surface of the roof.
Underlayment installation often requires undercutting. This is done with a sharp knife. In order not to damage the material below when cutting, enclose a piece of plywood or OSB.
Fronton (end) plank
Gable strips are mounted on the side sections of the overhangs. These are strips of metal bent in the form of the letter "G", along the fold line of which there is a small protrusion. They cover the laid roofing materials from wind loads, from moisture ingress. The gable plank is laid on the flooring over the lining or waterproofing carpet, fixed with nails (stainless steel or galvanized) in a checkerboard pattern with a step of 15 cm.
These planks also come in pieces of 2 m, stacked with an overlap of at least 3 cm.
Slope marking
To make the installation of soft tiles simple, markings in the form of a grid are applied to the lining carpet or flooring. Do this with a painter's cord. The lines along the cornice overhang are applied at a distance equal to 5 rows of tiles, in the vertical - every meter (the length of one flexible tile shingle). This marking makes laying easier - the edges are leveled along it, it is easier to track distances.
Valley carpet
On top of the already laid waterproofing carpet, another valley material is laid. It is slightly wider, serves as an additional guarantee of no leaks. Without removing the protective film from the underside, it is laid, cut at the bottom in the overhang area, and the boundaries are marked. Deviating from the mark of 4-5 cm, a special mastic of increased fixation Fixer is applied. It is applied from a syringe, with a roller, then rubbed with a spatula into a strip about 10 cm wide.
A valley carpet is laid out on the mastic, the folds are smoothed out, the edges are pressed. Stepping back from the edge by 3 cm, it is fixed with nails in increments of 20 cm.
Connection to a brick pipe
To bypass pipes and ventilation outlets, patterns are made from a valley carpet or galvanized metal, painted in the appropriate color. The surface of the pipe is plastered, treated with a primer.
When using a valley carpet, a pattern is made so that the material enters the pipe by at least 30 cm, and at least 20 cm should remain on the roof.
The pattern is smeared with bitumen mastic, placed in place. the front part is installed first, then the right and left.
Part of the side elements is wrapped on the front part. The back wall is installed last. Its parts go to the side.
With proper installation on the flooring around the pipe, a platform is obtained, completely covered with a valley carpet. Before laying tiles in this place, the surface is smeared with bituminous mastic.
The tile from three sides enters the laid carpet, not reaching the walls of the pipe 8 cm.
The upper part of the junction is sealed with a metal strip, which is attached to the dowels.
All gaps are filled with heat-resistant sealant.
Conclusion of round pipes
For the passage of ventilation pipes there are special passage devices. They are positioned so that the lower edge of the element extends over the tile by at least 2 cm.
Having attached the passage element to the roof, its inner hole is circled. According to the applied contour, a hole is cut in the substrate, into which a round pipe is led out.
The back of the skirt of the passage element is smeared with bituminous mastic, set to the desired position, and additionally fastened around the perimeter with nails. When installing soft tiles, the penetration skirt is smeared with mastic.
The shingle is cut as close as possible to the ledge of the penetration, the gap is then filled with mastic, which is covered with a special UV-protective dressing.
starting strip
The installation of soft tiles begins with the laying of the starting strip. Usually it is a ridge-cornice tile or an ordinary one with cut petals. The first element is laid on one of the edges of the slope, going to the edge of the gable plank. The lower edge of the starting strip is laid on the drip, stepping back from its fold 1.5 cm.
Before installation, the protective film is removed from the back, the shingle is leveled and laid. Each section of bituminous tiles is fastened with four nails - at the corners of each fragment, stepping back from the edge or perforation line 2-3 cm.
If a cut from an ordinary tile is used as a starting strip, in some part of it there will be no adhesive composition. In these places, the substrate is smeared with bituminous mastic.
Installation of soft ordinary tiles
There is a flexible tile with an applied adhesive mass, protected by a film, and there is a composition that does not require a protective film, although it also fixes the elements well on the roof. When using the first type of material, the film is removed immediately before installation.
Before laying bituminous tiles on the roof, several packs are opened - 5-6 pieces. Laying is carried out from all packs at the same time, taking one shingle from each one in turn. Otherwise, there will be pronounced spots on the roof that differ in color.
The first shingle is laid so that its edge does not reach the edge of the starting strip by 1 cm. In addition to the adhesive composition, the tiles are also fixed with roofing nails. The number of fasteners depends on the angle of the slope:
When installing soft tiles, it is important to drive in nails correctly. Hats should be pressed against the shingle, but not break through its surface.
Valley design
With the help of a paint cord in the valley, an area is marked in which nails cannot be driven in - this is 30 cm from the middle of the valley. Then mark the boundaries of the gutter. They can be from 5 to 15 cm in both directions.
The upper corner, which is turned towards the valley, is cut
When laying ordinary shingles, nails are driven in as close as possible to the line beyond which nails cannot be hammered, and shingles are trimmed to the floor of the gutter laying line. To prevent water from flowing under the material, the upper corner of the tile is cut obliquely, cutting off about 4-5 cm. The loose edge of the tile is smeared with bituminous mastic and fixed with nails.
Decoration of the pediment
On the sides of the slope, the tiles are cut so that 1 cm remains to the edge (protrusion) of the end plank. The upper corner of the shingle is cut in the same way as in the valley - a piece of 4-5 cm obliquely. The edge of the tile is smeared with mastic. A strip of mastic - at least 10 cm. Then it is fixed with nails, like the rest of the elements.
If the flooring in the area of the ridge is made solid, a hole is cut along the ridge, which should not reach the end of the rib 30 cm.
It is fixed with long roofing nails. On a long ridge, several elements can be used, they are joined end-to-end. The installed metal ridge is covered with ridge tiles. A protective film is removed from it, then the fragment is fixed with four nails (two on each side). The installation of soft tiles on the ridge goes towards the prevailing winds, one fragment overlaps the other by 3-5 cm.
The ridge tile is a ridge-eaves divided into three parts. A perforation is applied on it, a fragment comes off along it (first bend, press the fold, then tear off).
The same elements can be cut from an ordinary tile. It is divided into three parts, not paying attention to the drawing. At the resulting tiles, a corner is cut off - about 2-3 cm on each side. The middle of the fragment is heated with a building hair dryer on both sides, placed in the middle on a bar and, gently pressing, bend over.
Ribs and kinks
The ribs are covered with ridge tiles. A line is beaten off along the bend at the required distance with a masking cord. The edge of the tile is aligned along it. Laying of flexible tiles on the edge goes from bottom to top, each fragment is glued, then stepping back from the top edge of 2 cm, fixed with nails - two on each side. The next fragment comes to the laid 3-5 cm.
Until recently, only galvanized steel, tiles and slate were used as roofing material. Several people were involved in the installation work, who spent a lot of time and effort on the work. But today the range of materials has expanded and now after the construction of the roof, one person can cope with roofing work, a lot of new things have appeared - for example, a soft roof.
In terms of its technical and operational characteristics, soft roofing is in many ways superior to other materials. Its advantages include:
- ease of installation (can be handled alone);
- strength;
- durability;
- flexibility;
- resistance to moisture and corrosion;
- tightness;
- attractive appearance.
Varieties of soft roofing
Often the following types of roofing are used as roofing:
Attention! If the top layer of the roof will not be removed, then when buying a soft roof, you should clarify whether it is compatible with the material from which the structure is made.
Preliminary work
Installation begins with preparation.
Stage 1. Preparing everything you need
As already noted, laying a soft roof can be done by one person. For work, he will need a completely standard list of materials:
Stage 2. Preparatory work
The base must be as strong as possible, its deflection is unacceptable. There are several materials that can be used for strengthening:
- plywood;
- OSB boards;
- grooved boards 10 cm wide.
It is characteristic that in winter small gaps (about 3 mm) should be left between the seams of the skin. If the structure is sheathed with boards, then 5 mm.
Attention! It is desirable to treat the rafter system to protect against decay and insects, as well as flame retardants - to increase the refractory properties.
Prices for OSB (Oriented Strand Board)
OSB (Oriented Strand Board)
Stage 3. Ventilation gap
It solves the problem of high humidity and reduces the amount of ice that forms in winter. Moreover, in summer, ventilation reduces the temperature inside the roof sandwich.
Ventilation consists of three main elements:
- ventilation outlet;
- valves for fresh air supply (installed from below);
- an air gap of 50 mm between the base and the waterproofing layer.
Attention! If the slope of the slope exceeds 25ᵒ, then the area of the ventilation hole should be 8 cm². If the slope is less than 25ᵒ, then 16 cm².
Stage 4. Intermediate layer
In this case, a gasket means a special one laid around the entire perimeter of the roof. Installation is made from the bottom up, starting from the eaves. An overlap of 10 cm is observed. The material is fixed with nails every 20 cm.
When the roof slope is less than 18ᵒ, the lining can be laid not over the entire area, but only in certain areas, such as:
- skate;
- overhangs of cornices;
- junction with a vertical wall;
- location of the chimney.
Attention! If the slope is less than 12ᵒ, then the use of a soft roof is not recommended.
Stage 5. Installation of strips
Step 1. To protect the material from atmospheric precipitation, cornice strips are installed on the overhangs, you can directly on top of the gasket material. Planks (another name - droppers) are located with an overlap of 2 cm and are fastened with roofing nails (zigzag, along the entire length of the plank).
Step 2 Gable strips are installed at the ends of the structure. This must be done with the same 2 cm overlap. Nails are hammered in 10 cm increments.
Step 3. The exit point is marked (if the house has a heating stove).
Step 4. Upon completion of the installation of the planks, the valley carpet is laid, which will significantly increase the moisture resistance. The color of the carpet should match the color of the roof, the edges are fixed with nails in 10 cm increments.
After that, you can start laying the roofing material.
Below is the technology for laying bituminous tiles, since this is the most common type of soft roof.
Stage 1. Cornice tiles
Cornice tiles are laid on the planks fixed on the overhangs. For fixing, galvanized nails are used - they are hammered in two rows 2.5 cm from the upper and lower edges of the material.
Instead of cornice tiles, you can use an ordinary one, which will save a little. For this, the tile is cut out - a shingle is taken and the petals are cut from it. In this case, the installation is carried out "end-to-end" at a distance of 2 cm from the cornice overhang.
Stage 2. Tiles
Attention! Do not forget about color deviations. Even if all the tiles are from the same batch, the tone in different packages may differ. For this reason, it is recommended to mix six to seven packs beforehand.
Step 1. Laying starts from the center of the roof overhang and is carried out in both directions.
Attention! The protective film is removed from the shingles immediately before installation, because without it the material cannot be stacked.
Nails are used for fastening. Usually four pieces are enough for shingles, but if the roof slope exceeds 45ᵒ, then six is better.
Step 2. The first row is laid in such a way that its edges recede from the edges of the cornice overhang by 1-1.5 cm. At the same time, the petals cover the joints between the cornice tiles.
Step 3. The second row is laid in the same way, but the petals should overlap the cutouts of the previous one.
Step 4. At the edges, the material is cut along the edge and glued. There should be a layer 10 cm wide.
The same is done in the end - the tiles are cut to obtain a 15-centimeter strip, after which the edges are smeared with glue by about 7-8 cm.
Attention! When trimming tiles, it is advisable to put a piece of plywood under it so as not to damage the underlying layer.
Stage 3. Ridge tiles
Step 1. First, the scaffolding is prepared. They will greatly simplify the work with the roof ridge, but at the end of the work, do not forget to glue the petals of the shingles at the attachment points.
Step 2. The tiles are overlapped (approximately 5 cm), each shingle is fixed with four nails.
Attention! Ridge tiles are laid only after the laying of the ordinary is completed.
Step 3. To obtain a ridge tile, the eaves are cut at the places of perforation. Further, each element is bent and laid in a short part along the roof ridge.
Stage 4. Passages and junctions in the roof
There are several ways to organize passages through the roof. So, if the diameter of the passage is small, then it is better to use special rubber seals. This applies to inputs for antennas and other communications, but the pipes are finished in a slightly different way - here it is necessary to take into account possible heating and, as a result, expansion, therefore the technology is used differently.
Step 1. First, a triangular-shaped rail is nailed along the perimeter of the junction of the pipe and the roof (in most cases - 5x5 cm).
Step 3. The pipe is glued with insulating material so that 25 cm of the slope and 35 cm of the pipe itself are covered.
On this, the installation work is almost completed, it remains only to fix the adjacent bar around the entire perimeter of the pipe. Next, an iron apron is fixed, and the seams are carefully sealed with silicone-based sealant.
Adjacency to vertical walls is carried out in the same way. The only difference can be considered that the triangular rail does not form a perimeter, but is fixed along the wall.
Video - Installation of a soft roof
Prices for different types of tiles
Roof tiles
Roll roofing
Rolled material, which is also called euroroofing material, is laid mainly on flat roofs, although it can sometimes be found on pitched roofs with a slight slope.
The technology looks like this.
Step 1. After rolling out the roll, all the folds are leveled and the material is stretched.
Step 2. One side of the roofing material is heated with a special burner until a special indicator melts.
Step 3. After that, the side is glued to the base. When the material has cooled, the roll is rolled up again to the place of fixation.
Step 4. The roofing material is fused and gradually rolled out. In this case, you must adhere to certain rules.
- The roofing material is welded with an overlap of 5 cm. For this, a special indicative strip is applied along the entire length.
- Do not overheat the material, otherwise it will deteriorate, lose its ability to stick.
- A high-quality weld material must be homogeneous - without voids, dark spots, etc.
The joints with other surfaces are treated with bituminous mastic, which, after drying, will have the same properties as euroruberoid.
Video - Installation of euroroofing material
As a conclusion
The main points of installation, discussed above, will help to understand the essence of the issue even for a non-specialist. The main thing to remember is that compliance with the installation technology and strict adherence to all instructions will extend the operational life of the soft roof.
It is worth starting a conversation about this type of material by highlighting it benefits before other building materials for arranging the roof. One of the main advantages is its light weight, as well as the ability to choose the one you need for styling the size. It is for this reason that it becomes possible to mount flexible tiles on their own.
The basis for choosing a flexible tile is the presence of a roof with a minimum slope of 1:5.
It is possible to mount this material only under certain weather conditions, namely air temperature not less than five degrees. It is necessary to observe this rule in order to preserve the properties of the material, namely shingle- the sheet on which the "tiles" are attached.
Installation of shingle sheets can be produced using various means. Such means include nails and an adhesive layer of a tile sheet. At temperatures below five degrees, the adhesive layer does not set with the base on which it is applied. A sealed coating is not created in this case.
Also, at low temperatures, tile sheets become very fragile, and it becomes quite problematic to work with them.
If it becomes necessary to install flexible tiles in the cold season, it is necessary to build a dome above the roof, which will be heated. In this case, the installation of tiles is possible.
The structure of shingles
For the manufacture of soft tiles used fiberglass(in some cases cellulose). To create the base of the tile fiberglass treated with bitumen. Then, several more layers are applied to the base, which include bitumen, an oxidized-modified configuration, and additives from polymers are also added to it.
Such additives give tiles certain properties: strength, resistance to deformation and flexibility.
In addition to the two main layers, shingles on top treated with a protective layer. It can be mineral chips or basalt granulate. With the help of a protective layer, the tiles are given properties that protect it from climatic influences.
It is given various color shades. For the possibility of fastening the tiles, an adhesive layer is applied to it, which is protected by a film before use.
Mainly self-adhesive shingles has a hexagonal shape.
Advantages of flexible tiles
The most important advantage of a flexible tile is the fact that it suitable for arranging roofs of various shapes and configurations.
Also, the buyer has the opportunity to choose a material with a wide variety of colors, as well as shapes. In total there are three modifications of the material: diamond-shaped, hexagonal and classic - rectangular.
A huge advantage of flexible tiles is its excellent sound absorption when this cannot be said of other materials, they are more often referred to as "musical". In addition, roof tiles poorly flammable, which is also its obvious plus.
A good property of the material can also be attributed to the fact that the tiles are sufficiently easy to mount. And also it can be installed at sufficiently large temperature differences.
material well adapted to hail, wind and rain.
The advantages of flexible tiles, of course, include:
- a small amount of waste upon completion of installation;
- fungal growths do not form on flexible tiles;
- good protection against moisture;
- the material does not need additional painting;
- ease of repair work, replaceability of individual elements of the roof;
- light weight of the material.
- can be purchased at relatively low cost.
Calculation of roofing material
When calculating the amount of material needed for do-it-yourself installation of a roof covering, it is necessary to take into account the amount of waste received, and with this condition, calculations must be carried out with a margin. The amount of waste directly depends on the configuration of the roof on which the tiles will be mounted.
Preparation for laying shingles with your own hands
Before you begin to mount flexible tiles, you must lay the groundwork. As a basis, chipboard, boards or moisture-resistant plywood are used. If a board is chosen for the base, then it is best to use a planed one, and it is better if it is tongue-and-groove.
Important: with a board thickness of 2 centimeters, the pitch of the rafters should be 6 meters. When laying the joints of the material must coincide with the rafters.
Before starting work, you must treat the roof with an antiseptic. It should be flat and firm.
To carry out work on the installation of tiles you will need:
- Lining carpet - any material based on bitumen, in rolls (used for new roofs). Roofing material, which was used earlier (for old roofs).
- Carpet for the valley - the material is necessary for processing joints and junctions.
- Sealant and mastic.
- Knife and building hair dryer.
- Construction planks.
- Nails (roofing and galvanized).
When all the necessary tools are available, you can proceed to the preparatory work: 
- Fixing the vapor barrier film from the side of the attic. The film is attached with wooden planks to the ribs of the rafters.
- Insulation is laid from the outside of the roof; wooden beams are used to fix it, which are attached to the rafters.
- A wind protection film is applied over the insulation, it is attached with a counter beam. Subsequently, a crate will be attached to this beam.
- OSB, plywood and board are laid on top of the film. Fastening is done with nails or self-tapping screws with a wide hat.
Installation requirements
The main thing to consider when laying flexible tiles even on the roof of a house, even on the roof of an arbor, is having a level ground. If there are irregularities, they will stand out on the roof upon completion of installation. And in some cases, it is in these places that cracks and leaks can form.
Important: Do not lay tiles on concrete.
Initially, a waterproofing carpet is laid. It is better if it is laid in horizontal directions. It is necessary to start laying it from the bottom of the roof. The valley carpet is best if it is made of material without joints.
Installation instructions for shingles: nine basic steps:
First stage- this is preparatory, work with the foundation, which was mentioned earlier.
To do this, use a material with a uniform surface, this material is attached using nails. The moisture content of this material should not exceed twenty percent of its own weight. Boards should not be less than two spans, which are located between the supports. They need to be fixed in place of the supports. It is also necessary to calculate the possible deformation of the boards and leave a gap between them.
Second phase- installation of a gap for ventilation - a gap is a necessary element in the construction and further laying of the roof. Its size should be large enough, at least five centimeters. The gap should be located as high as possible on the roof surface, and the hole into which air will be sucked in at the bottom.
Creation of ventilation on the roof is necessary for:
- elimination of humidity of internal materials: lathing, insulation and roofing;
- prevent the formation of ice and icicles on the roof;
- maintaining a low temperature inside the roof in the summer.
The more correctly and better ventilation is performed, the longer the roof will last.
Third stage- installation of the lining layer.
To do this, use a special roofing and insulating material. It must be laid over the entire roof area. It is worth starting laying from the very bottom of the roof, and moving up, an overlap is made on the material. The overlap must be at least 10 centimeters.
At the edges, the material is fixed using nails, the interval between them is 20 centimeters.
On roofs with a slope of more than 18, lining material can only be installed on the ridge and end of the roof, as well as around pipes and joints.
Fourth- installation of metal cornice strips - is made to protect the edge of the crate from moisture. To do this, set 
The edge of the material is fixed using roofing nails (step 10 centimeters).
Fifth step- installation of metal gable strips is carried out at the end of the roof, gable strips are installed to protect the lathing. The overlap of the planks should be at least two centimeters.
Sixth- installation of a valley carpet - allows you to improve the water tightness of the roof. The color of this coating corresponds to the selected roofing tiles.
Seventh- installation of cornice tiles. Initially, eaves tiles are mounted along the cornice of the overhang. This is done with the help of its pecking base. Laying is done end-to-end. It is necessary to retreat 2 centimeters from the inflection of the cornice strip. Then you need to nail the tiles. This must be done near the perforation so that the fastening points are then covered by the next row of tiles.
eighth step- installation of tiles.
Important: in order to avoid color differences, it is necessary to use tiles from five packages at the same time.
Installation of tiles is carried out from the center of the overhang of the eaves and towards the end. Before fixing the tiles, the protective film is removed. Each part of the tile is nailed to four nails. At
a large roof slope, it is necessary to increase the number of nails to six. 
When installing the first row of tiles, one condition must be met. It is necessary that he finds one centimeter on the cornice tiles.
The tiles have petals. They serve to close the joints with the previous row. With further installation, the rows are mounted according to a different scheme, namely: the joints should not be closed, but should be at the same level or higher than the previous row
Ninth step- installation of connections.
In order to make small passages through the roof, rubber seals are used. Places where heating occurs, namely near pipes, must be insulated. A triangular rail is nailed at the junction, and then a lining carpet is mounted, all seams and overlaps are smeared with glue.
All vertical joints are processed using the same technology.
Ways to care for roofing tiles
- In order for the coating to serve for a long time, it is necessary to check its technical condition twice a year.
- It is necessary to equip the roof with a free drain for water. Drains and gutters should be cleaned regularly.
- Using a soft brush, debris is removed from the roof, this must be done regularly.
- In winter, snow removal from the roof is necessary only in cases of emergency, if the snow layer is more than twenty centimeters. Do not remove ice from the roof with sharp objects.
- If a breakdown is detected, then repairs must be made immediately so that the destruction does not take on a larger scale. At the time of repair work, it is necessary to protect the coating from the effects of walking.
Popular manufacturers: TechnoNIKOL, Deca, Shinglaz, etc.
What is bituminous shingles attached to.
It is possible that you do not know how to fix bituminous tiles. There are several options for attaching it.
Depending on the sub-roof base, different methods of fastening soft tiles can be applied.
There are few methods for fastening, but first things first.
roofing nails
This is the most common type of attachment.
Roofing nails are used when moisture-resistant OSB boards, softwood plywood or solid wooden board lathing serve as the basis for the roof.
A roofing nail is used in those roofs where cladding and insulation will be made from the inside, as well as in sparsely populated places (for example, attic roofs) - where numerous sharp stings of the tips of nails do not pose a constant threat.
The ordinary, starting and ridge tiles, lining carpet, valley carpets, roof penetrations and are fastened with nails.
Nail size
Roofing nails for shingles are nails with large heads Ø 8-12 mm. Also, for these nails, the name "roofing nails" is applicable. Their length reaches from 25 to 40 mm. The nail rods are up to 3.2 mm in diameter.
For the installation of bituminous tiles, it is best to use galvanized nails. Unlike conventional steel nails, galvanized nails have a much longer service life, as they are less susceptible to corrosion processes.
The most affordable installation of a soft roof on nails is carried out with a hammer. To protect your fingers from lacerations, it is better to use a hammer with a round end of the shock part.
The nail must be hammered so that the head of the nail rests on the surface of the shingle. The nail is hammered perpendicular (at an angle of 90º) to the plane of the subroofing base.
Incompletely hammered nails prevent maximum bonding of soft tiles and may, after some time, “climb out” of the sub-roof base.
Too deeply driven nails leave a cavity in the shingle, punching it with their head can form a hole around the head of the nail. This negatively affects the reliability of the fastening itself.
Consumption of nails
Consumption of nails for shingles: per 100 sq.m. finished roof - 10 kg of nails. This quantity takes into account the complete installation together with the accessories for the roof.
Fastening shingles with nailer
You can also fix the tiles with the help of such a tool as, it is also a nailing pneumatic hammer.
There are rack and drum nailers.
Nails for nailer are made of carbon steel. They are nickel plated. For fastening shingles, nails for nailer must be with a large hat.
Self-tapping screws with a press washer
Mounting on self-tapping screws with a press washer is less common, but in some cases there is no alternative to it.
The most common material for the base of the roof, where self-tapping screws with a press washer are used, is laminated plywood. Usually it is used for arbors and sheds, open aviaries and in other cases, when the sub-roofing base is also a cladding on the inside of the roof.
It is difficult to hammer nails into laminated plywood, and the plywood itself is subject to destruction.
Therefore, in such cases, it is correct to use self-tapping screws with a press washer for fastening flexible tiles. It is important that the length of the self-tapping screws is less than the thickness of the plywood, so that their tips do not peek out in large numbers from the inside of the roof.
Also, self-tapping screws can be used when thin wooden lining or board mounted on top of the roof frame or rafters. From hammered nails, the lining can prick, giving cracks. Well, so that the nails do not climb out and do not spoil the view from below, they can be replaced with self-tapping screws with a press washer of short length. If, for example, the thickness of the lining is 20 mm, you can use self-tapping screws 16 mm long.
The rules for fastening with self-tapping screws are the same as for nails.
Staples
Fixing bituminous tiles with brackets is relevant and applicable for cases similar to fixing with self-tapping screws, with the only exception - brackets do not clog well and bend into laminated plywood. But in lining, OSB and plywood, when they are used simultaneously as a finish on the underside of the roof and a subroof base, they can be used.
Such structures include gazebos, sheds, canopies, wells, dog houses and aviaries.
It is not necessary to fasten shingles with staples on the roofs of the main buildings.(houses, attics, garages, baths, etc.), as this is a very unreliable type of mechanical fastening.
propane burner
And the last option - fixing shingles with a propane torch.
It is used when it is necessary that there are no nails.
As a rule, these are "forged canopies" with a metal frame, to which a metal sheet is welded or thin plywood or OSB-3 boards are screwed.
Torch Mount Applicable only for tile types with self-adhesive backing. These are the so-called single-layer types.
Fastening, and in part, fusing bituminous tiles with a burner is the most complex and time-consuming method of fastening, requiring professional skills in working not only with a burner, but also with soft tiles.
The number of soft roof fans is growing like a snowball. And this is not surprising - just remember the visual appeal and operational advantages of one of the most modern coatings. But there could be even more supporters of flexible roofing materials, if they knew that installation could be done without involving a team of roofers. Today we will try to fill this gap and share not only construction technology, but also the secrets of experienced craftsmen.
The structure of the soft roof
Before talking about the roof structure with soft roofing, I would like to briefly mention the features of this unique material. In fact, it is a modified roofing material. That's just the basis of flexible tiles (hereinafter we will call them shingles) is not a banal cardboard, but a stronger and more durable fiberglass or polyester fabric. Improvements have also been made to impregnation. The waterproofing of soft tiles is provided by a modified polymer-bitumen composition, thanks to which the critical temperature points have been shifted to higher values.
The multi-layer structure allows you to make a soft roof durable and completely waterproof.
Basalt or slate chips are applied on top of the flexible tiles - it not only determines the design of the coating, but also makes it more resistant to mechanical stress, ultraviolet radiation and other external factors. From below, the tiles are covered with an adhesive layer, which is covered with a protective film. In some cases, a fine mineral dressing is applied to the lower surface - then the adhesive part is a wide strip in the upper part of the shingles.
Roofing pie construction
The multi-layer structure makes flexible tiles not only strong, but also durable - some manufacturers give a guarantee for their products for up to 25 years. As a rule, soft roofing materials easily overcome this boundary. Of course, we are talking about those cases when the base of the soft roof complies with accepted standards, and the laying of the material is carried out strictly according to the prescribed technology.
Studying the device of roofs with bituminous tiles, we immediately divide them into two types:
- cold,
- warm.
The first are built for cold attics. Many websites and print publications sin by pointing out the inexpediency of arranging simplified roofing pies for residential buildings. Like, if the house is intended for year-round use, then its roof must be warm. This statement is fundamentally wrong - most of the private houses of the old housing stock were cold. Moreover, the cold roof has its advantages. And the biggest one is durability. In winter, frost is practically not formed on such a roof, which, as you know, is one of the worst enemies of shingles. In addition, the simplest roofing cake is well ventilated, which means that the wooden frame will always be dry. As for energy efficiency, for thermal insulation it will only be necessary to insulate the attic floor. As you understand, its area in any case will be less than that of the roof.
When using a cold roof on a residential building, it is necessary to insulate the attic floor, the area of \u200b\u200bwhich is noticeably smaller than that of the roof structure So, the structure of the roofing cake for cold roofs includes:
- step (sparse) crate made of wooden beams or steel shaped pipes;
- solid flooring (from plywood, OSB or skid boards);
- insulating lining;
- bitumen coating.
Roofers working as part of professional teams often recommend installing a superdiffusion membrane under the lining carpet, arguing that the wooden base is more protected from moisture. A rather controversial statement, which I personally can only call wastefulness. A conventional waterproof lining leaves little to no chance for the wood frame to get wet due to snow or rain. Such actions on the part of specialists can only be explained by the desire to earn a certain amount for an operation that requires minimal labor. As for the warm roof, in this case, the installation of moisture-resistant coatings is mandatory due to the use of thermal insulation.
A warm roofing cake allows you to use any attic space for year-round use For attic insulation, fibrous materials are most often used, which, when wet, can lose most of their unique abilities - that's what they need to be protected. From below - from moist air, and from above - from leaks. In this case, the roofing cake should have the following structure:
- rails for mounting cladding panels;
- vapor barrier waterproof film;
- thermal insulation layer;
- waterproofing windproof vapor barrier membrane;
- counter beam;
- sparse crate;
- solid flooring;
- lining base;
- flexible bituminous coating.
You may object that the slats installed from the attic side have nothing to do with the roofing pie, and you will be absolutely right. However, we nevertheless indicated them due to the fact that in our case they also act as fasteners for the lower layer of vapor barrier.
Video: correct installation of a roofing pie is easy
Tiled roofing technology
Roofing made of soft bituminous tiles is similar to tiled only visually. Not only the installation technology differs, but also the operational characteristics, service life, maintenance and repair procedures. And although the work on the construction of a shingle roof cannot be called too complicated, you will have to carefully follow the manufacturer's recommendations. It is best to divide the construction process into several stages:
- Procurement of materials and preparation of tools.
- Preparatory work.
- Laying of insulating materials.
- Arrangement of counter-lattices and battens.
- Solid foundation construction.
- Laying the top layers of the roof.
- Installation of additional elements and arrangement of passages.
By organizing your working hours in this way, you will not only minimize the number of possible errors, but you will also be able to make the most informed decisions about attracting outside help.
How to calculate how much and what materials will be needed
The first thing to do when starting mathematical calculations is to draw up a detailed drawing of the roof or create at least an elementary sketch indicating the exact dimensions and features of each slope. The calculation itself includes the determination of the geometric dimensions and the number of main parts of the structure:
- additional elements;
- valley carpet;
- lining layer;
- ventilated ridge or roof aerators;
- timber for step battens and counter battens;
- boardwalk;
- soft cover.
I must say that the accuracy of the calculations carried out affects not only the cost of the roof, but also the timing of the work. For this reason, we will understand the features of the calculation of all components of the roof in as much detail as possible.
Additional molding
To finish and protect various parts of a soft roof, several types of extensions are used:
The presented additional moldings are produced in the form of strips of a standard length of 2 m. However, in order to determine the number of certain strips, the length of the area in need of protection should be divided by 1.9 or 1.85. This is due to the fact that aprons and planks are not mounted end-to-end, but with an overlap of 10–15 cm wide.
If the roof structure includes grooves and junctions with vertical surfaces, then their waterproofing is provided by a special valley carpet. Manufacturers produce it in the form of 1 × 10 m rolls, presenting a choice of several colors to match the tiled flooring.
When choosing a valley carpet by color, it is not at all necessary to get exactly the color - a slight desynchronization of tones will play a plus, making an ordinary roof extremely stylish and expressive Calculating the total length of the carpet, you should make a margin of 20 cm for each valley - you will need it for the correct installation of the lower part of the joints.
The lining layer is arranged both over the entire area of \u200b\u200beach slope, and partially - it all depends on the steepness of the surface. If the roof slope is more than 1:3 (18 degrees), then only areas prone to leakage are protected with a roofing carpet:
- internal corners of adjacent slopes;
- ridge part;
- ribs;
- areas with fractures of slopes;
- edges at pediments and cornices;
- ventilation outlets.
When laying the insulating carpet, it is necessary to make an overlap of 10-15 cm. For this reason, its calculated quadrature should be 1.1 - 1.15 times the total area of the slopes. If the lining is partially equipped, then the length of the strips of the roofing carpet corresponds to the length of the parts of the roof prone to leakage.
The lining carpet can be laid both along and across the slope The width of the lining with partial waterproofing should be 40-50 cm. An exception can be made only for skates and external corners, reducing this value to 25 cm.
Skate air elements
When calculating the number of ridge aerators, it is assumed that one element 1.2 m long is able to provide ventilation for about 25 m 2 of the under-roof space. If point air elements are used, then the total area of \u200b\u200badjacent slopes should be divided by 5 - that is how many square meters of the roofing pie "serves" one such element.
The design of the ridge aerator allows you to organize ventilation of the roofing pie on roofs of any configuration Note that point air elements vary in height. Steep roof slopes are equipped with short ones, and gentle surfaces are long.
Lumber for battens
For the arrangement of the crate, a wooden beam with a section of at least 40x40 mm is used, as well as a board 25 mm thick. The length of the counter beam is the easiest to determine - it is equal to the length of the rafter legs. As for the sparse lathing, the total length of the wooden elements is determined based on the standard step width for shingles - 37 cm for rafters located at a distance of 0.9 m from each other. Therefore, the length of the rafter leg in centimeters should be divided by 37 and multiplied by the width of the roof - this will be the desired length of the beam, which will be needed for the crate of one slope.
solid base
Sheets of plywood or OSB used for arranging a solid base should be mounted apart, that is, with overlapping seams. For this reason, when determining the area of \u200b\u200bthe material, an amendment must be made:
When determining the amount of plywood or OSB in sheets, it is recommended to make a sketch of their location on paper with the most dense laying - this way you can avoid wasting material during installation.
Covering and roll materials
In the process of laying, two types of tile shingles are used - ridge-cornice and ordinary. The first are produced in the form of packages designed for 12 p.m. m of skate and 20 linear meters. m eaves. When calculating the latter, the same correction factors are used as for a solid base (simple roofs 3–5%, combined roofs up to 10%). To determine the number of shingle sheets, the total quadrature of ordinary shingles is divided by the area of one bituminous strip. One pack of soft tiles is usually designed for 3.5 m 2 of roofing - knowing this number, it will not be difficult to calculate how many packs you will need to buy.
Before installation, tile shingles from different packs must be mixed - this will eliminate the appearance of non-uniform color sections of the roof The amount of materials that will be needed for a warm roofing cake is calculated with the following tolerances:
- waterproofing and vapor barrier - at least 4%;
- roll thermal insulation - according to the area of \u200b\u200bthe slope;
- plate insulation - up to 4%.
It is easy to see that the amount of roll and slab insulation practically does not depend on the complexity of the roof. This is due to the fact that such materials are easily joined together and do not affect the appearance of the structure.
What tools and supplies will be needed
In addition to roofing and wood materials, the following equipment and tools will be required during the work:
- saw;
- a hammer;
- scissors for cutting metal dobor;
- metal spatula for mastic;
- roofer's knife (different from the usual hook-shaped cutting part).
In addition, you should purchase ordinary nails, which will be needed for the construction of a wooden base, and special ones for fixing a soft roof. The latter are distinguished by a wider cap (diameter 8–10 mm) and a length of 25–30 mm. Fasteners that are used in automatic pistols are also suitable - such hardware has a length of 40 mm. The number of nails is calculated based on the consumption of 4 pcs. per shingle or 500 grams per 10 m 2 of roofing.
For a one-time use, it is not necessary to buy a special tool - you can get by with replaceable hook-shaped blades for a regular construction knife During the installation of flexible tiles, you will need bituminous mastic, designed for waterproofing building structures. Its volume can be determined by the roof area - for every 10 m 2 of coverage, up to 1 liter of liquid mixture will be required.
The price of bitumen mastic is affected by both the type of material (cold or hot applied) and composition. The cheapest is bitumen-polymer waterproofing, while the most expensive is recognized as bituminous polymer-aluminum coating. The latter is highly resistant to heat aging and UV radiation. In our conditions, bitumen-rubber mastic will be enough - it has an average cost and has good installation and operational characteristics.
Preparatory work
The preparatory stage includes several steps:
- dismantling of the old roof (if necessary);
- installation of a crate frame;
- installation of heat-insulating and accompanying layers;
- solid foundation construction.
The arrangement of a warm roofing pie is carried out in the following sequence:
Table: determination of the thickness of a solid base for a soft roof
Before, we have already talked about the need to lay slab material apart. In addition, thermal gaps of about 5 mm should be left, otherwise, in the summer heat, sections of the roof will bend in an arc. On each side of the ridge, gaps of 70–80 mm are left to create effective ventilation for the roofing pie.
It should be noted that for a cold roof it is enough to build a sheathing and boardwalk - the need for other elements is eliminated due to the maximum simplification of the design.
Video: how to build a solid base for shingles
Step-by-step instruction
The manufacturer provides for the laying of bituminous tiles at an outdoor temperature of up to -15 ° C. Since installation during the cold period requires additional heating equipment and the cost of heating materials, it is best to start work in the warm season, choosing days when the temperature rises above 20 ° C. In this case, the bituminous component will be warmed up due to solar heat, which will make it possible to obtain a strong connection of all layers of the roof.
Laying soft roofing can be carried out in winter - the main thing is that the temperature does not fall below -15 degrees In order to properly allocate time and effort, we suggest using the step-by-step instructions for laying a soft roof on your own.
Forming the lining carpet
As a substrate, rolled materials from fiberglass impregnated with a bitumen-polymer mixture are used. You should not refuse a soft base - a lining is needed in order to additionally level the surface, waterproofing, insulation and sound absorption.
Strips of rolled waterproofing can be laid parallel or perpendicular to the horizon line - the main thing is to ensure an overlap of 10 cm along the long side of the insulation and 15 cm at the joints.
From my experience I can say that on steep roof slopes it is best to lay the lining in a vertical direction. And not at all because in this case the likelihood of leaks during heavy rains is reduced. The fact is that under the influence of gravity, the waterproofing panels sag, and folds form on the surface. In order to level them well and properly fix them, additional time and effort are required - one cannot do without assistants. As for gentle slopes, here, of course, the horizontal method of fixation wins, as it is simpler and more reliable. It is only important to start work from the overhang and move towards the ridge. At the same time, each subsequent strip of waterproofing will cover the edge of the previous one and the water will not have a single chance to get under the upper layers of the roofing pie.
Partial underlayment is only possible on roofs with steep slopes When deciding to partially lay the underlay on steep slopes, the most important areas should be protected. So, on both sides of the valley and at the edge of the slope (cornice line), the width of the bituminous waterproofing should be at least 50 cm, while for skates, a strip of this size is divided in half.
To fix the lining layer, use a nail fight or fastening with building brackets in increments of 25 cm. In areas prone to leakage (valleys, junctions, etc.), the litter should be glued with a bituminous composition.
The list of materials that are suitable for use as a bituminous base is indicated by the manufacturer in the installation instructions for shingles. It is irrational to replace them with improvised coatings such as roofing material or polyethylene film due to the short service life, rapid thermal aging and other factors.
Installation of valley carpets and additional strips
When choosing a bitumen-polymer carpet for arranging valleys, they are guided by the color of the main coating. For decorative purposes, you can choose a material that differs in tone - this will emphasize the line of each groove and make the roof more expressive. Experts recommend covering the valley with a solid panel 1 m wide, be sure to glue it with mastic to the plank base. If it is required to join two pieces, then the junction is located as close as possible to the peak of the roof. The overlap of the top sheet to the bottom must be at least 20 cm with mandatory fixation with liquid bituminous waterproofing.
The material of the valley carpet is laid over the entire surface of the groove and glued to the base with mastic To protect the edge of the lathing from dripping condensate and sedimentary moisture, a cornice and gable extension should be installed over the insulating carpet. To fix the planks, roofing nails are used, which are hammered in a zigzag pattern at intervals of 10-15 cm (at the joints - up to 5 cm). It is necessary to withstand the overlap of adjacent additional elements of 3–5 cm, placing the edges of the planks along the contour of the eaves or end ledge. It is advisable to fasten the droppers first - in this case, at the corners of the slopes, they will be covered by gable strips.
The joints of the cornice and gable planks are overlapped with reinforced fixation with roofing nails Before installing the cornice and end protection, it is recommended to frame the perimeter of the solid flooring with a rail with a section of 20x40 mm. If an edge is made along the edges of the slope, then the waterproofing is installed on top of it and cut off behind the perimeter line. After that, additional elements are attached.
Cornice tile installation
The horizontal lines of a marking put on a lining simplify installation and allow to lay a tile in equal rows. It is best to form them with the help of linen twine rubbed with chalk. The cord is pulled in the right place and released like a bowstring to leave a mark on the dark surface of the substrate.
For even laying of cornice tiles, it is necessary to apply chalk markings on the lining layer Starting shingles are laid at a distance of 1 cm from the eaves line and fastened with roofing nails. So that the tiles do not come off under strong wind load, the fasteners are hammered at a distance of 25 mm from the edge. Each subsequent strip is laid end-to-end, and the junctions are protected with bituminous mastic.
Installation of ordinary tiles
The main coating is mounted in the direction from the center of the slope, placing the first ordinary shingle with an indent of 2–3 cm from the edge of the cornice strip. To fix soft tiles, it is enough to remove the protective film from the adhesive layer and firmly press the shingle to the substrate.
When laying the lower tiles of ordinary tiles, make a small indent from the edge of the cornice sheets The final fastening is carried out with nails at four points - along the edges of the strip, as well as over the depressions between the inner petals. The top sheets are offset by 1 petal. Thanks to this, the very “tiled” texture appears, and in addition, the joints and fixation points of the soft roof are closed.
The scheme for laying a soft roof provided by the manufacturer makes it easy to understand the nuances of the technology The tiles protruding beyond the edges of the slopes are cut off, after which the cut is treated with bituminous mastic.
Video: soft roof installation technology from the material manufacturer
Arrangement of the ridge and sealing of penetrations and junctions
Ventilation of the under-roof space is provided by air elements installed on top of the ridge. They are attached to the wooden frame with screws or nails. After that, the ridge part is closed with flexible tiles. There are no special strips of soft bituminous coating for external corners - they can be made by cutting out the cornice tiles. The petals cut along the perforation are placed across the ridge and fixed with a nail from each edge. The next element is placed with a 5-centimeter overlap, and for additional sealing, the contact point is treated with bituminous mastic.
The ridge air element must be covered with a layer of bituminous tiles, otherwise atmospheric precipitation will quickly render it unusable Places where pipes, cables and other communication elements pass through the roof slope must be closed with special passage units. They are attached directly to the base even before the installation of the lining carpet.
The junctions with walls and chimneys require special attention, otherwise the moisture flowing down the vertical surface will penetrate inside the roofing pie During the installation process, the upper layers of the roof are let in over the penetration, impregnated with mastic and cut in place. In the same place where the slope is in contact with a brick chimney or wall, roofing materials are let into the surface of a vertical structure. For additional protection, a segment of the valley carpet and a figured metal apron (adjacency bar) are used.
Video: arrangement of a soft roof passage unit
bituminous roofing cost
Doing all the work yourself, you can save a lot, because the total cost of the roof will consist only of the cost of the necessary materials. Depending on the manufacturer, the price per square meter of a soft roof of a budget and medium level varies between 800–1,500 rubles. If we talk about the premium segment, then certain types of shingles are sold at prices up to 4,000 rubles. Of course, in this case, there can be no talk of any independent installation - anyone who can fork out for such an expensive material will find money for a professional team. The services of the latter, by the way, are not cheap - from 600 rubles per square meter of finished coating.
As you can see, it’s not difficult to build a soft roof with your own hands, which, however, does not preclude proper accuracy and following the technology developed by the manufacturer. If you do everything with high quality, then the roof will please with its appearance and trouble-free operation for many years. Otherwise, it is better not to take up the work at all, otherwise the roof will constantly remind you of its existence with leaks and other unpleasant moments.
