Ventilation in the steam room: examples of proven schemes and analysis of the rules of arrangement. Proper ventilation in the bath: highlights Technology for the manufacture of ventilation in the steam room

Among the most important indicators are traditionally called temperature and humidity level, forgetting about another fundamental indicator - air exchange. This is very reckless, because even if you carefully insulate the room and achieve comfortable humidity, staying in a steam room with stale air will not only be uncomfortable, but also dangerous. If you want to avoid such a fate, take care of the ventilation in the steam room in advance. You can even equip such a system with your own hands - let's take a closer look at how to do it right.

Why does a Russian bath need ventilation?

Before proceeding to a description of the features of the direct technological process, let's first clarify why ventilation is necessary in the bath in the steam room. It is no secret that many skeptics consider its arrangement only an unjustified waste of time and money, but this is far from the case - the lack of a ventilation system can lead to at least three sharply negative consequences.

Types of ventilation systems for the steam room

Ventilation in the bath in the steam room can be of three types:

natural;
mechanical;
combined.

The natural system assumes that air circulation is provided by the difference in pressure and temperature levels in the steam room and on the street. The principle of operation here is simple: first, hot air rises to the upper zone of the steam room, and then leaves through the exhaust hole to the street, thereby discharging the atmosphere in the bath - this creates the conditions for drawing in new air through the supply hole. The advantage of such ventilation is minimal financial costs. But here one nuance must be taken into account: with insufficient insulation of the structure, the natural air duct will be an obstacle to high-quality heating of the bath.

Mechanical ventilation operates by means of special devices that control the exit of exhaust air and the supply of new air flows into the steam room. As a rule, various kinds of fans act as such devices. The advantage of the mechanical system is that ventilation equipment can be installed in almost any area of the room.

Advice. A classic duct fan is not suitable for a bath, as it will not withstand the harsh conditions of a steam room - it is better to use special models made of glass-filled polyamide that can withstand high temperatures - up to 130 degrees.

Combined ventilation combines elements of both natural and mechanical systems. It functions in this way: mechanical devices are responsible for extracting the exhaust air, and fresh air enters through a separate supply opening.

Ventilation schemes

There are at least five working ventilation schemes that can be used in a steam room - choose a specific option based on the design features of your Russian bath.

The supply opening is behind the stove at a distance of 50 cm from the heater, and the exhaust opening is opposite, at a distance of 20 cm from the base of the floor. The air is removed forcibly - this is provided by a fan built into the lower opening.
The supply opening is behind the heater at a distance of 30 cm from the floor base, the exhaust opening is at a distance of 20 cm from the floor on the opposite wall. The air is forced out - with the help of a fan. The main feature of the scheme is a very high rate of heating of fresh air.

Both openings - both flow and exhaust - are placed on one side directly opposite the stove, but at different levels: the first is at a distance of 30 cm from the base of the floor, the second is 20 cm from the ceiling. The system operates using a fan, which is mounted in the exhaust opening.

Advice. Such a scheme is suitable for baths with an internal placement of a steam room - when the room has only one external side.

The supply hole is behind the stove at a height of 20 cm from the base of the floor. There is no exhaust opening - instead, a special leaking floor is provided: the exhaust air masses pass through its slots to the ventilation pipe. Such a system guarantees the performance of an additional function - prompt drying of the floor.
The supply opening is opposite the stove at a distance of 20 cm from the base of the floor. The role of the exhaust hole is assigned to the blower. Such a scheme is only suitable for those baths where the heater operates continuously.

General rules for organizing ventilation in the steam room

Whichever version of the ventilation system you choose, you need to equip it according to certain rules.

Firstly, it is desirable to make all holes for ventilation even at the stage of building a bath, since punching channels in an already finished structure is a very difficult process. The ideal option is to decide on a suitable scheme during the design of a Russian bath in order to make all the necessary changes to the work plan in a timely manner.

Secondly, the dimensions of the exhaust opening should be approximately the same as the dimensions of the supply opening. In any case, the "output" should not be less than the "input", otherwise it will not be possible to ensure a full outflow of exhaust air from the steam room. And in order to speed up this process, it is allowed to increase the dimensions of the exhaust opening and even equip two “exits” in one room.

Thirdly, in order to regulate the airflow of the steam room, all ventilation openings must be equipped with special shutters or shutters. They will come in handy in several situations: when heating the steam room, when the vents will need to be covered to quickly raise the temperature to the required level, as well as in the frosty season, when cold air will actively rush into a warm room.

Fourthly, the cross section of the ventilation hole should be related to the area of the steam room in the proportion: 1 cu. m area - 24 cm section. If the holes are small, the air in the room will not be able to quickly update.

Of course, organizing ventilation in the bath with your own hands is not an easy task. But it is fundamentally necessary: without air exchange, you can forget about the comfort, safety and durability of the steam room. Now you know the main rules and subtleties of this work - if you stick to them, you will definitely be able to make a high-quality ventilation system even without professional help.

Ventilation in the bath: video

Ensuring ventilation in the bath: photo

Ventilation of the steam room is the most important component of the design of a modern bath. Ventilation is used to remove excess steam, exhaust air and the correct distribution of heat in the room. You can provide ventilation in the steam room with your own hands, investing very little money and materials. But first, let's figure out whether ventilation is needed in the steam room.

Why is there ventilation in the steam room

Properly constructed ventilation in the steam room solves two problems:

comfort for steamers;
safety.

The lack of air exchange or illiterate ventilation in the steam room can lead to such sad consequences as:

rapid decay and deterioration of the structure. Even in a properly constructed bath, wood lasts no longer than 2 decades. If there is no ventilation, this period will decrease significantly;
the unpleasant smell of rot and mustiness will discourage you from visiting the steam room;
the accumulation of gases and microbes are harmful to health. During the burning of firewood and the presence of people in the bath, gases are released. And in a humid and warm atmosphere, mold and fungi develop. If there is no air exchange, all harmful impurities are concentrated, making bath procedures dangerous for the human body.

One of the most important functions of ventilation in the steam room is the optimization of heating. Air saturated with water vapor is a poor conductor of heat.

That is why a bath without ventilation takes longer to heat up. To enhance the movement of air, the inlet is located behind the firebox, just above the floor. The air entering the room is first warmed up without lowering the overall temperature in the steam room.

So, ventilation is needed in a Russian steam room, and how to do it correctly - read on and watch the video.

Rules for ventilation in the steam room

There are many ventilation schemes in the steam room. The choice of a suitable one depends on the architectural features of the bath. But some laws cannot be broken in any case.

Air inflow is organized in the lower part of the room, preferably near the firebox;
The outflow of exhaust air during the construction of ventilation in the steam room with your own hands is best placed on the opposite side, as close to the ceiling as possible. Some owners make an exhaust hole directly in the ceiling, which has its pros and cons.

Do not place inflow and exhaust at the same height!

Otherwise, most of the air in the bath will not participate in the movement. Your feet will freeze and your head will overheat.

The diameter of the ventilation holes depends on the volume of the bath:

1 cubic meter of air requires 24 square meters. centimeters of pipe diameter.

Before arranging ventilation in the steam room, it is necessary to think over the valve system. They are needed to regulate the air flow and allow you to quickly cool or warm the bath. It is advisable to install ventilation pipes during the construction phase of the building.

Signs of poor ventilation:

condensation on the walls;
mold in the corners;
heavy odor;
drafts;
cold in the middle and upper layers of the air;
the bath does not gain temperature well and quickly cools down;
fresh supply air is removed, and carbon dioxide remains in the room (feeling stuffy).

Even in a very hot melted steam room, it should be easy to breathe.

Which steam room ventilation is better: natural or forced?

Thinking about how to make ventilation in the steam room, you need to solve the main question: will the air exchange be natural or mechanical. Both methods have advantages and disadvantages. Equipping ventilation in the steam room with your own hands, it is easier to resort to mechanical traction.

There is no need to carefully verify the location and diameter of the ventilation ducts, mastering the skills of a stove-maker. You just need to insert the fans - and they will do all the work.

With the natural ventilation scheme of the steam room, the movement of air is provided by the difference in temperature and pressure outside and in the bath. Warm air rushes to the ceiling, is pulled out into the street, creating some air pressure. The lack of pressure is compensated by the influx of fresh air. Natural ventilation is especially good in steam rooms made of wood - a breathable material. The movement of air flows is also supported due to the presence of gaps between the logs. If the area of \u200b\u200bthe bathhouse is small, natural air exchange will be quite enough;
With a forced ventilation scheme, the inflow or exhaust of air in the steam room is organized by a fan. Sometimes fans are installed both for inflow and outflow. In such cases, ventilation grilles can be mounted anywhere. If there is only one fan, air flow is done only near the floor behind the firebox. A large bathhouse built of stone or brick cannot be ventilated in a natural way. Auxiliary methods for improving draft are used, for example, an exhaust fan or a supply valve.

The advantage of a natural steam room ventilation scheme is that it is cheap. However, it is not always possible to install exhaust pipes in the right places and you have to resort to mechanical traction.

Before you make ventilation in the steam room, you must purchase a fan. Not every model will cope with high humidity and temperature. An ordinary household fan can only be used to ventilate the room at the end of the bath procedures.

In addition to fans, deflectors also belong to traction amplifiers. They are placed at the outer end of the ventilation duct.

If a geyser is installed in the steam room for heating, a special ventilation duct is equipped for it.

Often, steam rooms and saunas are equipped with supply and exhaust systems that independently regulate the temperature, humidity and air exchange in the room.

Steam room ventilation schemes

The error of the steam room ventilation device can be expensive. How to properly position the ventilation holes is clearly shown by the diagrams:

BUT- photo of ventilation of the steam room with natural draft. The inflow is organized behind the firebox, the outflow is opposite from the upper part of the room. In order for the system to work in windy weather, the exhaust pipe is made vertical, its edge is higher than the roof ridge. It is important to choose the right diameter of the air ducts, then the air exchange will proceed independently. It is regulated by shutters.

B- this photo shows do-it-yourself ventilation in the steam room with an uncharacteristic distribution of air ducts. The scheme is used when only one wall can be allocated for ventilation. The air enters the steam room from below, hits the hot stove, warms up and rushes to the ceiling, gradually moving towards the exhaust vent. Extraction is compulsory.

AT- not only the steam room is ventilated, but also the underground, preventing the boards from rotting. The supply air is immediately warmed by the stove, goes down through the cracks in the floor, then goes up and is pulled out into the street.

G- in this photo, the chimney is used to ventilate the steam room and is an exhaust hood. Air inlet opposite the stove near the floor. Such ventilation is more often arranged in public steam rooms, since here the stove is constantly working.

The stove plays a very important role in organizing the ventilation of the steam room. It is from its location that the ventilation scheme largely depends. More efficient air exchange is possible when the heater is installed directly inside the steam room, and not in the adjacent room.

About airing the Russian bath

In a classic Russian bath, it is impossible to install a mechanical hood. She will blow all the steam out into the street in a matter of minutes. Therefore, after the end of the bath procedures, the room is simply thoroughly ventilated. To do this, most often open the door and the window, which is usually located on the opposite wall from the door. If there is a forced exhaust, it can be used, but also with the door open. Be sure to remove all wet leaves from brooms, because they retain moisture and microbes. And the benches and the wooden floor are dried with towels. In wet boards, microbes multiply remarkably and accumulate harmful substances excreted with sweat.

Having thoroughly dried and ventilated the room, you can begin to heat the steam room, where ventilation is required.

During heating in the steam room, the exhaust pipes are closed and the inflow is opened.

air movement at the end of kindling)

Bath procedures heal and relax. However, without good ventilation in the steam room, being in it can end in problems. In addition, if wooden shelves and walls are not dried regularly, they will not last long.

Wood from the abundance of moisture will inevitably begin to deteriorate. However, it is not so difficult to make effective ventilation in the bath with your own hands. There are several schemes for its device in this room. You can always choose the best option for self-implementation.

The main types of ventilation for baths

The classic Russian bath is a small room. Not all types of ventilation can be implemented in it. Often in complex air exchange systems in this case there is no need. And most owners of country cottages and summer cottages, who build a steam room with their own hands, prefer to look for the simplest solutions.

All variations of ventilation systems are divided into:

natural;
forced (supply, exhaust and combined).

Air distribution in the steam room with proper ventilation

In the first case, ventilation is arranged so that the processes of air exchange in the room occur due to natural draft and convection. In the second, the air is forced to move around the room with the help of a fan installed on the exhaust, inflow, or both directions at once.

To organize ventilation in the bath, you can use all these methods. However, the natural option is more preferable. It is cheap, non-volatile and does not require supervision of electrical equipment. But in some cases it is not enough.

Air flow during natural ventilation

For example, it was decided to make a steam room in the house itself, and not in the form of a separate building on the street. Then only exhaust or supply ventilation can help. It is not recommended to equip a combined supply and exhaust analogue with a heat exchanger or electric heater in a bathhouse due to the high cost and complexity of installation. And in the steam room, such an option with additional air heating is simply not needed.

Air circulation in the bath, depending on the location of the stove

Ventilation schemes for steam rooms and baths

It doesn't matter if there is a fan in the duct or not. Ventilation in the bath is always done so that there are two ventilation ducts (windows or openings to the street). One input goes to the supply, and the second output to the exhaust. Moreover, ideally, they should be located on opposite walls and have doors, valves or latches to adjust the draft.

On the one hand, proper ventilation in the steam room should ensure a constant flow of oxygen inside, and on the other hand, it should not draw heat too quickly outside. If the air exchange is made too intense, then no firewood can be saved for such a bathhouse. All heated air will immediately go outside.

Temperature distribution in a ventilated steam room

The wood stove and electric heater continuously burn oxygen during operation. And the ventilation in the bath should also continuously replace it so that those who come to take a steam bath do not feel discomfort. Therefore, bath ventilation windows should have valves that will allow you to regulate the volume of air supply and exhaust.

The most effective schemes for placing ventilation windows in the bath are considered (direction "inflow" - "exhaust"):

On the wall near the stove - on the wall opposite above the shelf.

On the wall by the stove - through the cracks in the floor and further into the outlet of the dressing room.

On the wall under the shelf - in the chimney.

Through an outlet in the foundation and a crack in the floor - on the wall under the ceiling.

Types of hoods

In the first case, cold air is heated at the stove and goes up to the opposite wall, where the shelves are located. When implementing the second version of bath ventilation, the heated air masses first rise to the ceiling, and then, due to the draft, they fall and are pulled out through the cracks between the floor boards.

In the third scheme, a small pocket with stagnant hot air is created above the shelf. But such ventilation still draws oxygen into the steam bath and in sufficient quantities.

The fourth option involves the presence of vents in the subfield. It is more difficult to execute it in an already built bath with your own hands. In a poured concrete foundation, punching holes for ventilation is a problematic task. But with it, floor boards below the ground will always dry quickly after bath procedures and will last longer.

Methods for locating ventilation in the bath

The entrance window should be located from the floor at a height of 20–40 cm, and the exit window should be 15–20 cm below the ceiling. It is best if both of them are the same size. And both should be provided with blinds or a valve.

Exhaust and supply ventilation is usually done with a duct fan, which is mounted directly into the duct. It should be chosen for a bath with increased protection against steam and high temperature. All mechanical and electrical components of this fan must have improved waterproofing. IP protection here should be chosen at least "54".

You can always ventilate the steam room by simply opening the doors and windows in it. You don't even need air vents for this. So the internal hot air is replaced by cold external air in just a couple of minutes.

Hot air circulation in the steam room

However, it is difficult to call proper ventilation through open doors. In this case, all the steam ends up in the dressing room, where it instantly turns into condensate on the walls and interior items. This type of “volley” ventilation should be resorted to only in extreme situations.

Important nuances of the do-it-yourself bath ventilation device

If everything is done correctly, then you need to plan ventilation in the bath at the design stage. In an already finished building, it is more difficult to make ventilation holes even in wood than at the same time as laying a log house. The area of the vent should be about 200-300 square meters. see. This is more than enough for the majority of small square steam rooms.

Bath ventilation scheme

Another important point is the dowels in the walls, which fasten the logs together. If they are metal, then when creating vents, it is important not to run into these rods.

It is better to generally move the vents away from them as far as possible to the side. It will still not be possible to completely get rid of moisture, so the metal of the fasteners should be kept away from it.

Steam room plan with ventilation

Vents are not recommended to be placed on the same wall. In this case, the ventilation will be such that the air flow will immediately go from the bottom up, without circulating through the steam room. Holes should be made in height no more than the section of the log (beam). The required opening area is easier to select by increasing its length. It is impossible to build an outlet between two logs. This is more difficult to perform and can lead to damage when the log house settles.

Forced ventilation in the bath

The outlets of the steam room ventilation ducts from the outer wall must be protected from precipitation. If water gets inside the holes, it will be inside the wooden walls. And for a long time after that, the wood is unlikely to stand without decay.

When making ventilation in a Russian wooden bathhouse, the outlet vent should be led into its wall, and not into the ceiling. Bath steam should go immediately to the street. There is nothing for him to do in the attic. There are wooden rafters, to which excess moisture is contraindicated.

In the bath, it is important to maintain an optimal level of humidity and temperature: steam, heat and the sharp temperature difference that accompanies them have a destructive force that can deform even the latest generation building materials. But how to make ventilation in the bath so that such fundamental characteristics strengthen the durability of the entire building, and our health too? Consider the best options.

It has been proven that wood (the main material for the construction of baths) under these harsh conditions will last up to 20 years, but only with intensive air exchange. And the constant insufficient flow of dry air will force us to replace the lining in the steam room in 5 years, having paid a substantial amount for this repair.

Due to the lack of fresh air, wood paneling is intensively affected by fungi and bacteria and depresses us with a persistent unpleasant odor. By the way, the use of aggressive disinfectant chemistry in the bath is absolutely prohibited. Therefore, let's figure out how to properly ventilate the bath in order to completely remove this harmful “cocktail”, reinforced by mold and fungus spores, from the room.

Ventilation in the bath

Ventilation is the process of removing exhaust air and completely replacing it with outside air.

The mechanism of action of ventilation is simple: through one hole, fresh air enters the room, and through the second (exhaust) it goes outside. The strength of the air vortex depends on the size and location of such vents. At the same time, the correct calculation of parameters for a particular bath will help us avoid popular mistakes.

Ventilation features

Consider how to properly ventilate the bath.

Projects are carried out by professionals for any baths, but during the installation itself, it is important to comply with such conditions.

directly during construction, since it is not easy and dangerous to punch ventilation channels in an already finished building. In addition, a suitable ventilation scheme will inevitably require corresponding changes in the overall plan of the building.

The exhaust opening is always larger than the supply vent: to speed up the outflow, 2 hoods are also equipped. In this case, the exhaust air will leave the room faster, making room for fresh air.
We will regulate the rate of such replacement with valves: we will completely close them when the bath is heated in order to quickly reach the desired temperature. In addition, in winter, we also cannot do without such containment of the natural cold flow. So, valves perfectly regulate the intensity of ventilation.
The cross section of the hole is strictly proportional to the volume of a particular room: 24 mm per 1 cu. m.

In the photo - a valve on the hole.

The supply ventilation system also involves heating the air in winter and cooling it in summer. Exhaust ventilation only removes unhealthy air from the steam room.

Note!
The exhaust opening cannot be placed opposite the supply one: the air mass will not have time to gradually and gently mix, and a dangerous draft is formed.

A strong convection current will freshen the air as much as possible, because in 1 hour it takes almost 10-fold renewal of the atmosphere in the steam room.

Ventilation Device Methods

Experts have developed optimal options for the location of the ventilation hatches themselves in the steam room, and the choice of a specific scheme depends on the features of the construction of the bath. Consider the most popular types.

Behind the stove

The inlet will be very handy at the bottom behind the stove, while the heater will be in the way of fresh, but cold air.
We make output channels right in the floor, and the subfloor communicates with leading to the street.
The exhaust air descends and goes underground through the holes, and from here it escapes through the pipe.
This scheme saves heat, and always drains the damp underground, preventing the appearance of fetid and harmful mold spores there.

Above the stove

The inlet for outdoor air is equipped above the heater, and the outlet is made in the opposite wall, but below the inlet.
Then the warm stream at the furnace will raise the cold one, then fall and go outside.
Cold air cannot enter through the outlet duct.

Under the stove

We make an inlet near the furnace, below.
Cold air, passing by the furnace, heats up and goes up.
We put the outlet pipes in the opposite corner, one a meter from the floor, the second - under. They are connected by a single ventilation box, which we lead to a common channel or to the roof, or even to the attic.
We equip all openings with gratings and valves that regulate the intensity of air flows.

Draft from the stove

If the stove is built right in the steam room, we will use this ingenious scheme:

We arrange the heater so that the blower is below the floor, and we equip the ventilation inlet duct a little higher, above the floor.
Now the stove itself will provide traction, without fans.
The exhaust air leaves through its pipe, and a low supply inlet will increase the efficiency of the heater.

Hood under the floor

We arrange the supply entrance behind the stove, one and a half meters from the level of the heater, but we make an exhaust hole on the opposite wall 30 cm below the floor.
We will install a fan in the exhaust hole.
The advantages of the scheme are in the uniform heating of the incoming healing air: the cold stream instantly heats up from the furnace, goes under the ceiling, and, cooling down, rushes down to the exit.
The lower the hood, the stronger the return from the furnace.

Other options

Scheme 1: a cold stream enters the steam room, heats up from the stove and is removed through the hood on the opposite wall. A fan mounted in the hood is used to blow air.
Scheme 2: the instruction recommends that both the supply and exhaust openings be located opposite the stove on the same wall ׃ the entrance is 30 cm from the floor, and the exit is 30 cm from the ceiling. This is an excellent scheme if the sauna at the house has only one outer wall, and only we use it for ventilation vents.
Scheme 3: we equip the supply hole behind the stove 30 cm from the floor. We will place the hood on the opposite wall, also 30 cm from the floor.
Scheme 4: for baths with a continuous cycle: here the heater blew - there was also an exhaust hood, so with our own hands we equip only one supply hole near the floor, directly opposite the brazier.

Mechanical ventilation

Let's clarify how to make the ventilation ideal in the bath: it is the electric heater that will provide an intensive supply of fresh air through the ventilation.

Artificial steam injection by a steam generator is widely used in modern Russian baths. Similar ventilation is in the Turkish bath with a mandatory humidity of 100%. Mechanical exhaust here is done under the dome, but an air dryer is inserted into the pipe, which removes moisture into the sewer.

Advice!
In Russian baths, where steam is prepared by hand, we will use folk methods of ventilation: sew the bottom of the doors with a ventilation grill.

High-speed ventilation evenly warms up and comfortably refreshes the room. Special fans are made of heat-resistant glass-polyamide and can withstand heating up to +130 degrees, consume from 18 watts. The protection class of such a device is from IP-44 and higher.

Conclusion

The organization of soft, gentle, but fresh blowing of the steam room while maintaining a pleasant microclimate - in a special layout of the supply and exhaust openings, as well as specially arranged auxiliary equipment for them.

Ventilation depends on:

direction and amount of warm air;
lack of fumes;
economical fuel consumption.

Mechanical ventilation involves the use of software devices that control and independently maintain the set parameters of temperature, humidity, fresh air. But the price of such an ideal is significant. However, the choice is ours.

Combined ventilation is based on the laws of placement of vents, and the pressure difference is given to us by mechanical devices that draw air - fans. This is the best option for bath ventilation.

The video in this article will clearly show us the process of creating an optimal air environment in the bath.

Like any construction project, the Russian bath is being built according to the project. It is necessary to provide for the arrangement of ventilation for comfortable adoption of procedures, achieving a healing effect, and ensuring the durability of the design of the bath itself.

The specifics of air ventilation in the bath

Ventilation in a Russian bath from a bar with a heater, leaks between the stacked logs and gaps between the threshold and the door occurs naturally. You don't need to think of anything extra. Another thing is if the room is built of brick, concrete, foam block, etc. The heat-shielding functions of wood are replaced by additional thermal insulation. Although, in a bath of foam blocks, it retains heat no worse than in a wooden frame.

A modern building called a bathhouse is a zoned room, lined from the inside with the same eco-friendly wood. The Russian bath is distinguished by the generation of hot steam. Under its influence, the body releases toxins, salts, washed off with water. For a long stay in the same steam room with a large crowd of people, fresh air is needed.

Important! Proper ventilation in the bath must comply with the requirements of GOST 21.602-79 and SNiP 2.04.05-91 for heating, air conditioning and ventilation.

In particular, ensure at least two complete air replacements every hour. Moreover, this is also true during the downtime of the structure: the wet surfaces inside must dry completely, the wood does not rot, its appearance is preserved.

Ventilation in the bath and dressing room - channel layout

Thus, the ventilation device in the bath provides:

an additional source of heating for the dressing room when the air duct with hot air passes through it;
adjusting the speed of air flows (incoming and outgoing);
regulation of their movement: air must circulate from the steam room outside it, but not towards the dressing room or resting place;
correct installation of the hood (above the roof) for effective removal of vapors for any type of ventilation;
grid positioning: 0.5 m from the top layer of soil with natural air movement, at least 2 m - with mechanical ventilation;
increased air exchange efficiency with a combination of different types of ventilation.

Air exchange in different zones

dressing room

Ventilation in the dressing room when installing a stove in it is the simplest and most effective type of air exchange. Air circulates through the furnace. But the proximity of the room to the steam room leads to the deposition of condensate on surfaces: walls, ceiling. In order to preserve the wooden cladding, to prevent its decay, the dressing room is well insulated. Drafts are excluded. It is necessary to maintain the dimensions established by the norms: for 1 washable at least 1.3 sq.m. area. The simplest ventilation scheme in the bath for this room is to remove the exhaust air masses through the bathroom or washing area. But it is best to provide a forced type of air exchange in the dressing room.

Ventilation in the bath in the steam room

Complete replacement of air in the steam room should occur 3 times per hour (at least). This is due to oxygen deficiency during bathing procedures and its constant replenishment by ventilating the room. Air is sucked in from below at a height of 1.5 m from the floor directly from the street, and not from the interior. If a stove is located in the steam room, dampers that specifically regulate the flow of air, a valve for ventilation in the steam room, etc., then these are natural ways to regulate air exchange. Air exchange can also be controlled by adjusting the duct section. The movement of air streams of different temperatures depends on the places where the ventilation holes are arranged. The layout in the steam room - on the same wall, but at different heights or on opposing wall surfaces with different levels of location.

Attention! To prevent drafts, do not equip vents at the same level opposite each other.

In the best case, the arrangement of air vents is carried out as low as possible: this way heat is better retained. But for the intensity of the exchange of air masses in the steam room, it is necessary to equip forced ventilation (deflector, fan).

Determining the ventilation system in the bath

Being engaged in construction on your own, you need to know how to make ventilation in the bath so that it:

did not interfere with the rapid heating of the room;
effectively removed carbon dioxide, fuel combustion products;
provided complete ventilation in the shortest possible time.

Do-it-yourself ventilation in the bath can be aeration, mechanical or combined. Depending on this, the location of the channels and their size are selected. The volume of air flow is directly proportional to the cross section of the channel. The system should be assembled even when the base is being formed. The transport air channel is available with a square or round section. In the latter case, it, like the junction box, can be made from a 100 mm plastic pipe. The outlet and inlet openings are closed with a fine-mesh insert, preventing debris and insects from entering the pipe.

Popular ventilation schemes

The supply air gap is located at the bottom on the wall opposite the stove. The blower plays the role of an exhaust hood, subject to the constant functioning of the stove during bath procedures.
Scheme with openings into the wall along the inflow and exhaust in the steam room on the same wall, but at different levels: 0.3 m from the ceiling, air removal, 0.3 m from the floor - inflow.
The same distances (30 cm each) for inflow and exhaust, but air enters the steam room immediately behind the stove, and is removed through a channel on the opposite wall.
The inflow is behind the stove (0.3 m from the floor), the exhaust with forced air removal using a fan is opposite on the wall, below at the same height.

Algorithm for the device of a system with a fan

The step-by-step installation guide for the combined version provides for increased fresh air injection with a special wide-blade fan.

To work, you will need tools: a hacksaw, a drill, three-wire wiring, etc.
A fan of rated power and performance is purchased.
In a wooden frame, a drill with a special funnel makes adjacent holes.
With the help of a hacksaw, the membranes between them are cut down, the holes are combined into one hole.
In the same way, the channel for the inlet (outlet) of air is made.
The vector of motion of the air flow is experimentally checked. For this, the holes are all clogged, the stove is heated. When the temperature in the bath exceeds +50°C, the holes open. Air flows are being studied.
Rigid wiring is laid in a waterproof corrugated sheath to power the fan using an RCD.
A fan is installed in the center of the vent. Attaches with screws.
Dampers are manufactured or purchased to prevent heat loss, reduce the heating time of the stove. Inserted into fixed skids or mounted on hinges. If the bath is located autonomously, the shutters are also hung from the side of the street.

Important! All fittings for installation work must be made of stainless material, and the fan must be made of heat-resistant polyamide that can withstand temperatures up to 130°C.

So, do you need ventilation in the bath - yes, you need it. Is it possible to arrange it yourself without the use of complex equipment - yes, quite. But, with the obligatory study of the theoretical foundations, the development of a project and the drawing up of a scheme for the production of work.