Floors on monolithic floors. Installing a floor on a concrete slab: installation, materials, tools, instructions. Marking for beacon system

IN modern construction(especially in the countryside), ecological houses, and in particular, houses made of wood, have become very popular. Accordingly, the floor arrangement in wooden house also implies the use of wood, environmentally friendly materials.

Speaking about the advantages of floors made of wood, we can mention the absence of wet work, that is, work on the production of concrete roughing and finishing screed, and as a result, facilitating and speeding up the installation process.

It is also possible to lay more insulation, and you can also use a wide range of its varieties, which was not possible in concrete floors. In addition, it is much lighter on such a floor made on a wooden base.

When to take a closer look at the device wooden floors, then it becomes clear that it includes both natural wood materials, both boards, beams, and artificial ones - fiberboard (fibreboard), which are made from waste shavings of woodworking production.

The technology for making such a floor can be varied, and depends mainly on its purpose and location. So, according to its location they distinguish:

wooden floor of the first floor (on the ground/on the slab from the unheated basement);
wooden floor of interfloor ceilings;
wooden floor of balcony, loggia, bathtub.

A small role, but still played by the room in which the installation takes place wooden floor. For example, if this is a room with high humidity, then additional layers of waterproofing and vapor barrier materials are used to prevent water and capillary moisture from seeping deep into the structure of the wooden floor.

It is clear that in this case there is a certain approach to choosing a floor finishing coating, for example, today it has become possible in bathrooms, but for this you need to purchase the appropriate special type.

In this case, it is worth paying attention to the basis on which the technology for constructing a wooden floor will depend: when installing on the ground special attention are devoted to waterproofing work, and also apply large section load-bearing beams.

The advantage of wooden floors over in this case is the variety constructive solutions aimed at improving thermal performance.

The arrangement of the wooden floor of the first floor on the ground is significantly different from all others, since in this case the supporting elements for wooden beams are not the surface of the base (soil) itself, but columns, the so-called “bedside tables”, which are laid on it with a certain step (depending from the thickness of the beams). This can be clearly observed in the design of wooden floors diagram given in this article.

Determine the type of soil and if it belongs to the so-called “heaving” varieties, that is, it has the property of expanding, bulging, then in the places where it is supposed to install “bedside tables”, it (the soil) is selected to the freezing depth and covered with fine-grained filler - sand.

If the soil is stable, then it is selected to a depth of about 15 cm and compacted, sand and crushed stone are poured in and compacted a second time, and its preparation for the next stage ends, which involves installing a wooden floor on the soil - laying bricks/ block columns.

Prepare the base depending on how wide the “pedestals” will be. If they are narrow and made from materials smaller than the width of the brick (25 cm), then it is recommended to pour a small foundation under them, 25 cm deep and 25 cm wide, respectively. After setting and drying, waterproofing is installed and the cabinets are laid.

If the pedestals are made from a pair of bricks with a bandage (each row is perpendicular to the underlying one) or others, block materials solid thickness, then onto the compacted layer sand cushion lay waterproofing and lay them (pedestals). In this case, it is advisable to make the step between the prepared bases for the cabinets such that the distance between the beams laid on them is 50-100 cm, and along the logs of the cabinet every 100-200 cm.

Laying "bollards" (columns) is made into mortar, blocks/bricks are laid with the expectation that the beams laid on them will have a height up to the level of the upper edge of the foundation, or rather, a couple of centimeters lower. A leveling cushion-screed made of a cement-sand mixture is placed on the upper surfaces of the pedestals.

After the pedestals have set and the leveling and at the same time smoothing layer has dried, a layer of waterproofing material is again made, which will protect the overlying elements - beams - from possible moisture.

Installation of beams on pedestals is carried out in one or two rows, depending on the design of the floor, since it can be single or double (see figure). At this stage, the installation of a wooden floor along the joists involves the use of rigidly fixed elements of the beams along the supports, that is, dowels and anchors.

In this case, the beams are fastened with anchors, dowels, corners to the foundation through the side faces of the beams; as for their fastening to pedestal supports, this is not necessary, although it is practiced very often today. This is especially observed when installing a single floor, when the flooring is attached without lathing, directly to the beams.

Installation on the floor slab is carried out using logs of a smaller cross-section with the installation of a vapor barrier film; in the case of an unheated basement, it is necessary to provide thermal insulation material between the lags.

In this case, it is necessary to pay special attention to the calculation of heat loss, since an unheated basement under the first floor can significantly reduce the temperature of the rooms located above it.

The main advantage of installing a wooden floor over concrete is the much lower labor intensity and speed of its installation. But this is the case if the concrete base itself (floor slab) is not included in the calculation.

Floor preparation is to clean the surface of the stove from dust, especially from sharp debris, such as small stones and glass fragments. Also, all kinds of bumpy and sharp irregularities on its surface are smoothed out, sharp holes are filled with a self-leveling polymer-cement mixture.

If there is a screed on the base that crumbles and peels off, then it should be treated with a deep penetration primer. acrylic base. In this case, you can apply two layers of primer: the first one diluted by 10-20% with water (for deeper impregnation of the base), the second - undiluted. It is clear that microorganisms, fungus, etc. are also removed.

Installation of joists on the floor slab occurs over an underlay of waterproofing material; in addition, waterproofing a wooden floor in this case (and preferably in all others) may involve treating the logs themselves with waterproofing mastic or a special impregnation, which also has antiseptic properties that prevent wood rotting.

Here it is important to pay attention to the fact that the logs fit tightly and without large gaps to the floor surface. The logs are fixed using dowels, the distance between the “tacks” is from 40 cm. The pitch between the logs is selected individually, depending on the dimensions and rigidity of the flooring material, and it can be 40-100 cm.

Laying a vapor barrier layer in this case it is necessary, since we are talking about the presence of a temperature difference between the heated first floor and the unheated basement. This difference can cause condensation to accumulate within the floor structure.

To prevent this phenomenon, use various types vapor barrier films, made of polyethylene, polypropylene and having a foil coating. You can also use traditional material - glassine. The material is laid with an overlap of 10-15 cm, wrapped around the perimeter of the room to a height equal to the height of the finished floor with plinth.

Wooden floors that are laid on the ceilings of the second - third floor have less complex design than in previous cases.

But at the same time, the floors separated by the ceiling must be heated - this is a prerequisite for the correct operation of such a floor.

The schemes for installing a wooden floor on the second floor and above, with the exception of the attic, are almost identical both in the case of a floor - a concrete slab, and with beam ceiling. In both cases, there is no vapor barrier and, at individual discretion, insulation may or may not be included (that is, its absence is not critical).

Construction of a wooden interfloor floor according to concrete floor , which is carried out between floors, assumes the presence of logs, which are set in increments of 40 cm, with a distance from the wall of 5 cm.

They can be laid on a concrete surface and adjusted in level using special fastenings. By the way, the floor over the ceiling of a heated basement is done in exactly the same way.

These include U-shaped brackets-holders, which are fixed with self-tapping screws to the sides of the lag. There are also special threaded studs, which are driven into one side concrete layer slabs (or a pillow is screwed on and placed on the bases), and a nut with a cap washer is screwed onto the second one, onto which the joist is placed.

Also, in order to raise the floor level significantly higher than the existing one, under the logs in the places where they should be attached, they place beams from hard rocks tree. Bricks and blocks are also used as such linings - the main thing is that the material is durable. However, this is already an outdated method.

is produced quite often, since beamed wooden floors are used quite often. There are several floor designs: on beams and on joists.

If the distance between the beams exceeds 60 cm, then the installation of the floor on wooden beams is a sheathing of logs along them in increments of 40-60 cm, respectively. Otherwise, you can install the flooring directly on the beams, but they must be level along with the step.

In addition to the difference regarding the sheathing of logs, there is one more thing, that is, the floor can be single or double. When installing a double floor, either special beams with “shelves” are used, on which the rough flooring is laid, or they are made on a beam installed in the design position. To do this, there are bars on its side faces, on which the rough coating is laid.

As for the insulation, it is laid between the black and finished flooring, between the beams. The material most often taken is mineral wool slabs or similar rolled materials. The materials are laid tightly, slabs - in a checkerboard pattern; if in two layers, then the second should not match the seams with the first.

Floors that are installed in unheated rooms, such as attics (not residential), loggias and glazed balconies, have almost identical floor structure according to wooden floors and concrete interfloor ceilings, but are distinguished by the presence of special, enhanced measures for thermal insulation and vapor barrier.

Floors with structures consisting of wooden elements, which are installed in rooms with high humidity, such as bathtubs, lavatories, kitchens, as well as baths, saunas - are performed as interfloor or ground floor floors (depending on the floor on which the room is located), but with an emphasis on increasing waterproofing properties.

Also very often, in all of the above rooms (and glazed balconies), insulated wooden floors, electrical and water “warm floor” systems are used, which are laid, as a rule, on a layer of heat-reflective rolled material, which in turn is spread on a heat-insulating material.

begins with preparing the surface for sheet metal vapor barrier materials, that is, from cleaning, etching microorganisms and smoothing sharp stones and other defects protruding from the plane of the concrete surface. Next, these materials are laid with an overlap of 10-15 cm, with releases to the height of the finished floor + 10-15 cm.

Next, the logs are installed, the distances from the walls are 5 cm - observed in mandatory. Since most often it is necessary to significantly increase the floor level in the case of a balcony, trimmings of beams are used, which are placed under the logs. However, the use of metal fasteners is not recommended; they can create “cold bridges”, transferring it from the stove.

In this case, warm wooden floors are often used, the device of which also accommodates electric or water heating systems. In this case, the insulation is laid slightly lower than flush with the joist, taking into account the thickness of the insulation system. The system is laid on this insulation, possibly on a heat-reflecting film, and cuts are made in the joists, through which the system is passed to other areas of the floor. In this case, the places where the joists are cut must be especially strengthened.

depends on the finish of the coating. They can be covered with ceramic tiles, in such cases, the flooring is treated with a special impregnation or mastic to prevent the absorption of water and a mesh is laid over which the cement-sand screed is installed.

Floor-to-wall junctions are covered with sealing tape and mastic. In the case of a “warm floor” system, which operates on a water basis, it is “buried”, that is, it is laid and filled with screed. If we are talking about thin-layer, electric insulation, then it is laid on an already dried screed and tiles are laid on top.

There is also another option for installing a wooden floor in the bathroom, when the chit flooring is supposed to be made from a special waterproof laminate or board. Then the screed is not performed, and a vapor barrier flooring is installed over the joists with installed insulation. Rough flooring made from boards or panels is treated with special impregnations that increase moisture resistance.

Construction of a private house is a complex multi-stage process that takes large number time. And if you are not a professional, then you are unlikely to be able to do it yourself. After all, it’s impossible to do without special knowledge. But some steps can still be done with your own hands. For example, flooring. We won't say it's easy, but it's possible. So let's figure out how to make a floor with your own hands in a private house.

There are three designs of the floor base on which the finishing material will be laid:

By concrete slab ceilings
Along the floor beams.
Concrete floor on the ground.

Floor on slab

In fact, a reinforced concrete hollow-core floor slab is already a finished floor. It is laid on the base of the foundation or on the walls of the building, which are filled with a reinforcing frame. It turns out a small but strong foundation right on the walls.

Such a plate, manufactured at the factory, goes through several stages of control, so its strength characteristics meet all the necessary standards. But the evenness of the surface leaves much to be desired. But this is not a problem, because such a concrete floor undergoes additional processing, insulation and finishing. So the evenness of the surface will ultimately have maximum parameters.

By technology construction work Installing a floor slab is the fastest process. For this you will need crane, which will install this reinforced concrete product anywhere in the building in a few minutes. But the floor arrangement does not end there.

What else needs to be done with the floor slab?

First, it is necessary to seal the joints between the slabs. To do this, they are filled with concrete mortar. To prevent the joint from leaking, formwork is installed on its lower side. It could be regular board, which is supported from below by a stand or support. The same board can be pulled with wire to the lower plane of the slab, secured to a pipe or other metal profile located on top of the slab across the joint.

Secondly, roll waterproofing material is laid. Please note that multi-strip installation must meet certain requirements:

All strips are laid overlapping with edges offset up to 15 centimeters.
To completely seal the layer, the edges of the material are sealed with self-adhesive tape, for example, construction tape.
The waterproofing layer is applied to the walls up to the level of laying the finishing floor covering.

Third, if you want the floor to meet the requirements comfortable stay, then on the first floor of the building it must be insulated. True, today many experts are of the opinion that the floor on any floor should be insulated. Therefore, we lay thermal insulation material.

The modern market offers a huge selection of insulation materials, so finding something necessary specifically for your floor will not be difficult. There are both traditional inexpensive materials on the market and new ones with excellent qualities and properties. Most often, expanded clay is poured onto the floor or slabs of extruded polystyrene foam are laid. Manufacturers of mineral wool began to produce dense products in mats that are not inferior in characteristics to either expanded clay or penoplex.

Fourthly, another layer of waterproofing is installed. Use the same material as in the first layer, and using the same technology.

Fifthly, the screed is poured or installed. More on this in a little more detail.

Features of creating a screed

How to make a floor screed

There are three types of screeds:

Regular wet based on cement-sand mortar.
Semi-dry from ready-made building mixtures.
Dry based on durable tile materials - plywood, gypsum fiber board, chipboard.

All options are used equally often, and the choice should be based on the time in which you need to meet. If it's pressing, then best option- this is a dry screed. If you have enough time, then you can take any other variety.

Attention! To increase the strength of a wet or semi-dry screed, it is necessary to lay a reinforcing frame made of metal reinforcement or wire into its body. It is important here that the frame is located in the body of the screed, and not on its border.

The difficulty of laying the screed layer lies in the fact that it must be precisely positioned and constructed in one horizontal plane. If you do not know some of the nuances, the error can be very large. Therefore, we advise you to read the articles on our website, which provide step-by-step instructions for pouring or installing screed on the floor.

This is what the diagram for constructing a floor on a concrete floor slab looks like. Many private developers who have tried different ways when arranging the floor, they say that this option is the simplest and most convenient. And it doesn’t matter what kind of screed will be used to level the surface of the slab.

Floor on floor beams

This option is not uncommon on construction sites in private housing construction. But not everyone can build such a structure. First of all, because the floor can be built on floor beams only by installing additional elements in the form of lags. It is not possible to lay out the sexual base in any other way. And the most important thing is that these logs will have to be aligned to achieve a flat surface.

Let's consider a scheme for carrying out such work. Typically used as floor beams wooden beams large section. You can use metal profiles and concrete beams, but both of these options are expensive, and attaching a joist structure to metal and concrete is much more difficult. Therefore, wooden beams are the best option. They are laid on the base part of the foundation with the obligatory lining of waterproofing material - a piece of roofing felt or roofing felt. Align wooden beams in a plane is not necessary, and this is inconvenient, because the weight of each element is quite large. Leveling the floor is carried out with lags.

There are logs on the beams. These can be the same small-section wooden beams or boards laid on the end. The lags are fastened to the beams either with self-tapping screws or with special metal corners. The second option is used more often because it is more reliable. But that's not all. Metal mounting angles allow you to raise or lower the joists, thereby simplifying the process of leveling the floor base.

How to level the floor along the joists

Floor installation on joists

The alignment scheme is quite simple. First, in one plane and exactly horizontally, two logs are placed on opposite sides at the walls. We remind you that this can be done using fastening metal corners. But you will still have to install pads under the logs - wooden, plastic or metal plates.

The evenness of each log must be checked with a building level. And in order to determine the location of two lags in the same plane, a rule or a long rod is installed on them, and it is this that is checked for horizontalness. Now 3-4 rows of threads are stretched between the lags so that they do not sag, and intermediate structural elements are placed along them.

Attention! The height of the logs is selected according to the zero level, which is previously applied to the walls in the form of a contour around the perimeter of the room.

Flooring

Usually a floor made of boards is built along the joists. This is a traditional option that has several advantages:

The plank floor is easily insulated. To do this, longitudinal slats are nailed along the lower edges of the joists, along which the subfloor is installed. Then a vapor barrier is laid, and on top of it - insulation, which is covered with a waterproofing roll material, for example, plastic film.
In this design, communication systems and networks can be laid.
It is possible to mount heating system"warm floor".

Plank flooring is beautiful and warm covering, which does not need to be decorated with others finishing material. You can simply paint it or apply a colorless varnish, which will only emphasize the beauty of the natural component of the floor covering.

Other flooring options on beams

The plank floors of the first floor can be laid on posts

Sometimes beams are not used as support for joists. The joist structure itself is a support for the floor base. If the house is small, then the logs are installed with their ends directly on the foundation, and this is often enough to withstand heavy loads. If the room is of decent size, then additional ones will have to be installed under the logs. intermediate supports in the form of columns. They can be built from brick, stone, concrete or finished products - reinforced concrete columns, metal pipe and other metal profiles. Choose the simplest and cheap option, for example, brick columns.

Please note a few very important points:

The support columns should be located at such a distance from each other that the loads on the joists are distributed evenly - 40–50 centimeters is enough. Although everything will depend on the cross-section of the logs used. The larger it is, the less frequently supports can be installed. So the distance between them can reach up to 80 centimeters.
The upper planes of the columns must be horizontal and in the same plane.
A small foundation must be poured under each support.
Waterproofing material is laid on the upper plane of each column.

Floor on the ground

Floor installation in a private house

This option for constructing a floor in a private house can be considered a subtype of installation on a floor slab, because the result will be a concrete base. But the works themselves differ significantly from the first version. They are more labor-intensive and use a large number of different building materials Moreover, the design of the floor base itself is a multi-layer cake.

The work is carried out according to the following scheme:

First, soft soil is removed to a depth of up to half a meter. The bottom of the pit must be compacted, and a cushion of sand and crushed stone is poured onto it. These two materials can be replaced with gravel. Please note that each layer of backfill must be compacted, and the sand can be watered.
Waterproofing material is laid. The technology is the same as in other processes.
Expanded clay or perlite is poured as insulation.
A reinforcing frame made of metal is installed welded mesh. It is important that the frame is in the body of the screed, so lift it above the level of the laid materials.
A concrete solution is poured, which will subsequently serve as the base of the floor. Particular attention must be paid to pouring the mortar, because a smooth and durable floor is the key to the quality of the entire foundation. On such a floor it will be possible to immediately lay finishing, or you can install a joist structure. By the way, heated floors can also be installed perfectly on it.

Conclusion on the topic

So, we figured out how to make a floor. In our case, options for constructing a foundation without finishing processes were considered. After all, it is precisely this type of work that private developers have the most questions about. Because, firstly, it is not as simple as it might seem at first glance. And, secondly, finish the floor with any floor covering much easier. So choose the construction option, take our recommendations into account and get to work.

Ruslan Vasiliev

Wooden floors have many advantages: they are distinguished by elasticity, noiselessness, and warmth. They are attractive in appearance, non-slip and easy to repair, which is very important, since a considerable number of seams and the risk of cracks are their constant “fellow travelers”. The key to durability, strength and evenness is competent and high-quality preparation of the base.

The technology for installing a wooden floor is primarily determined load-bearing structure. With all their diversity, they can be classified into two types: by screeds (monolithic or prefabricated) or separate by joists.

Installation of floors on a concrete base

Installing a wooden floor on concrete involves performing a certain type of work.

Determination of screed moisture

The concrete base must be sufficiently dry - the standard humidity is less than 3%.

The boards can be installed on a fresh screed within three months at the earliest.

There are special portable devices for assessing the moisture content of concrete. However, it is very possible to check the condition of the screed, albeit with some error. in a simple way. A polyethylene film (1x1 m) or a square of transparent plastic (30x30 cm) is hermetically glued with tape to its surface and after 24-48 hours, checked for the presence of condensation inside or a dark damp spot on concrete. Minor or no condensation, as well as stains, allows you to begin laying the floor.

Leveling the base

Uneven surfaces can cause floorboards to squeak or sag. To check the level of inclination and evenness, use a 2-meter rod and building level, which are applied to the concrete surface in several places. The level will indicate the slope, and gaps under the rail will indicate low areas.

Small defects, elevations and depressions can be eliminated very simply:

low - leveled with bulk mixtures;
High areas are removed by grinding.

Vapor and waterproofing device

The finished screed is treated with a primer. It performs two functions simultaneously: it impregnates and envelops the surface, and creates a vapor and waterproofing barrier. If the cement-sand layer is well dried, then a one-component polyurethane primer mixture is used as a primer, and for new or insufficiently dried ones, a 2-component epoxy mixture is used, which is applied in several layers. Work continues after the primer has dried.

Some people prefer more traditional way waterproofing using roofing felt or polyethylene. The insulation sheets are laid on concrete with an overlap of at least 10-20 cm and glued together with construction tape or mastic. If rooms located below the floor have high humidity, it is better to lay the insulation in two layers, using bitumen mastic.

It is also recommended to install a wooden floor with insulation and sound insulation. Additional advantages are that they are pleasant to the touch, warm and prevent the spread of extraneous noise. Thermal insulation is quite simple:

if the floor is laid on plywood, then materials such as foamed polyethylene are used;
When installing logs, insulation is placed between them, say, mineral wool slabs.

What the next step will be is determined based on the chosen mounting option.

Floorboard gluing technology

It involves laying boards directly on the screed. Perhaps this is the simplest and most widespread technology in the world today. This technique is perfect for private sector buildings, new buildings or any others where there is no need to raise or level the base.

Among the advantages of this design it should be noted:

this technology is much cheaper than any other method;
there is no loss in the height of the room, since the floor rises only by the thickness of the wooden covering;
Anyone can assemble it, its installation is so simple;
This type of construction is ideal for installing “warm floors”.

An adhesive is applied to the concrete surface, for example, a one-component elastic polyurethane adhesive modified with silane.

The second layer is laid polypropylene or plastic film, not less than 10 mm in thickness. To ensure the required thickness in the case of a thin film, it is spread in several layers, which must overlap each other. Along the perimeter it is necessary to ensure that the film extends slightly onto the walls.

The film is covered with glue on top, on which it is laid flooring material. The wooden floor is exposed with varnish, oil, paint, etc.

What to pay attention to during installation

the base should be smooth and durable, without cracks; the permissible deviation is 3 mm for every 2 square meters. m;
it is not recommended for leveling, since it is possible that they are incompatible with glue, which can undermine the reliability of the structure;
for better fixation over the coverage area, use a load;
between the coating and doorways, walls, thresholds and columns, expansion gaps of 1.0–1.5 cm are required; fill them with a cork compensator.

To ensure sound and heat insulation, it is necessary to lay an additional layer of insulation - most often it is technical cork or isolon. It is located directly under the floor covering on a polypropylene film coated with glue.

Laying on plywood

To level the base, use 12–18 mm moisture-resistant plywood or OSB boards. Standard sheets cut into strips (40–80 cm wide) on the smaller side and laid diagonally to the future direction of the coating, leaving gaps of approximately 4 mm. The fragments are glued and then fixed to the screed: either using self-tapping screws or shooting with dowels. Before laying the wooden floor, the plywood sheet is roughly sanded and cleaned of dust.

Advantages and features of the technology

used to equalize deviations in height up to 10 mm;
this leveling method is much cheaper than using leveling mixtures;
This way you can equalize the floor height in different rooms.

During installation, you must adhere to the following instructions:

plywood layer thickness or OSB boards should be at least equal to the thickness of the boards laid on top;
To increase adhesion, the surface of the sheets is sanded and primed.

Laying on joists

In cases where the horizontal deviation is more than 1 cm, a more complex technology is used - laying on logs, which are installed in increments of no less than 50–60 cm.

Attaching the log to the base can be done in several ways:

using screws and dowels– their heads must be “recessed” lower than the surface level by 3-4 mm;
gluing - for this purpose adhesive or bitumen-containing mastics are used.
for soundproofing pads, preferably from fiberboard.

Thanks to this design it becomes possible

installation of additional thermal insulation with laying of insulation between the logs;
leveling the base with a significant difference in height;
avoid the process of leveling the concrete surface itself.

This design, however, reduces, and significantly, the height of the room.

A more advanced technology is the use of adjustable joists in the floor structure, in which the installation height is changed by simply rotating the bolt.

Wooden floors are a timeless classic that, despite the emergence of numerous new technologies and materials, remains popular today. To install wooden floors, the boards are laid on wooden blocks, which are called “lags”. And the floor is also called: “floors on joists” or “on joists.” The essence does not change.

The concept of “logs” includes a wide range of lumber:

log sawn in half;
bars rectangular section, in which one side is at least 1.5 times longer than the other;
one thick board or two spliced or glued together;

Logs are wooden blocks, planed logs, spliced boards

These are the materials that can be used to make wooden floors using joists with your own hands. There are also metal and polymer ones, but they come complete with industrial systems, and are not used in private housing construction.

If we talk about wood, then they are more often used for laying under the floor. conifers. They have low prices, and due to their significant resin content, they are less susceptible to rotting.

Any wood must undergo antibacterial treatment before installation. For baths, it is also desirable to treat them with fire retardants - compounds that reduce the flammability of wood. Whether you choose ready-made impregnations for processing or impregnate with hot wax or drying oil is not so important, but this stage cannot be skipped.

Joists can be laid on concrete, but only under them you need to spread a waterproofing film

These bars rest on specially made structures - posts. This is if we are talking about a private house or a bathhouse built on or columnar foundation. They are also laid directly on a concrete base. This is possible if:

slab foundation;
previously made as a base for a floor;
the dimensions of the foundation allow for hanging logs;
the floor is installed in apartments of multi-storey buildings.

What logs to use

You need to choose the size and number of bars based on the load and thickness of the floor boards. The cross-section of the joists and their thickness depend on the span length - the distance between the two supports. The greater the distance between the supports, the more powerful the beam required. There are no such requirements for logs installed on a concrete base. Here, most often, the dimensions are selected based on the dimensions of the insulation, and the thickness of the board that will be laid on the floor.

The pitch for the logs (the distance between two adjacent bars) is selected from 30 cm to 100 cm. It depends on the thickness of the floor board. The correspondence is shown in the table. A step of 50 cm is considered optimal for baths. The thickness of the board is 25-30 mm.

Table of the dependence of the thickness of the floorboard on the installation pitch of the logs

There are also some recommendations on the width of the floorboard - do not take it too wide for the bath - as the humidity increases, it will warp more, which can even create difficulties when moving. Average width - best choice for baths.

It is advisable to lay the logs in one piece, without joints. But if necessary, they can be spliced. To do this, either cut a tongue and groove into half a tree, or connect them end-to-end, securing them on at least two sides with pieces of boards at least 1 meter long.

Location rules

The first and last lags from the wall should be at a distance of no more than 20 cm. If, while observing the calculated step, the outermost lags are located further, their number is increased and the step is reduced.

They are placed either along the wall in which the door is located, or perpendicular to it. If one wall is much longer than the other, then it is along this long wall and place logs. If the room is square or similar in shape, then the location of the window may influence the choice: floorboards look best if they are located along the flow of light. That is, in this case, the logs are placed along the wall in which there is a window.

Floor installation using joists

A wooden floor can be with or without a subfloor. The type of floor arrangement is determined by the level groundwater. If they are located closer than 2 m, an underground floor is required. In all other cases - optional.

If the groundwater is deep, you can make wooden floors on the ground. There is a very cheap option, but it is also the coldest: there is no insulation, so this option is either for houses seasonal residence(dachas and baths) or for regions with a very warm climate. The only requirement is a high base.

Installing a floor using joists with a cold subfloor

If waters lie close to the surface, wooden structures must be raised. Then they arrange special bases-columns, on which the logs are already placed. In this case, additional moisture insulation measures are required.

Concrete floor joists

If there is already a concrete base - floor slab, screed or slab foundation, making wood flooring easier. Installing joists on a concrete floor takes little time; exactly how long depends on the height difference and the required adjustments. The order of actions and layers is as follows:

For baths, the choice of material depends on the type of room. For a steam room with its high temperatures, it is advisable to choose heat insulators that are not afraid high temperatures. But they should not be afraid of humidity.

On the other hand, in the floor area the temperature rarely rises above 30°C, and under the boards it will be even less, so the question of temperatures can be removed. Moisture resistance remains. Expanded polystyrene and expanded clay meet these conditions. You can also use mineral wool mats, but they are susceptible to dampness, so it is advisable to insulate them well. As an option, each mat is hermetically sealed in a thick film.

Sometimes, for convenience, additional jumpers are installed between the lags. Such a frame for laying floorboards requires more materials, but allows you to save on the floorboard: it can be used with less thickness, since the supports are located more often.

There is a quick installation option - installing adjustable joists. Adjustable joists are wooden or plywood blocks with studs and an adjustment system (nuts) built into them. By rotating the nut in one direction or the other, you change the level of the joist relative to the floor. The studs themselves are embedded in the floor.

This is what adjustable joists look like

It takes 3-5 days to install such a floor, but its cost is about 15-20% more expensive than the usual version. But the boards, with a sufficient degree of moisture insulation, will last a long time: there is no direct contact with a humid environment and they will not be damaged. Among the disadvantages: they “eat up” extra centimeters of ceiling height. For some this is not critical, but for others it is very important.

Wooden floor on the ground

For private houses, cottages and bathhouses it is often necessary to make the cheapest floor. And this is a floor on joists on the ground. Material costs are minimal here, but the floor turns out to be cold. So what is this or for summer houses, or for the southern regions. In other regions, space heating costs will be very high.

To install such a floor on the joists, the following work is carried out:

The installation of such a cold floor does not require much time. You also need a little money.

Insulated option

Warm floors on the ground require high costs, but it still remains an inexpensive option. Preparing the pit is exactly the same: removing the fertile layer and compacting the remaining clean soil. Here are the differences:

The bottom and walls of the pit are lined with waterproofing materials.
Crushed stone of the middle fraction is poured in a layer of 8-10 cm, compacted well, and then poured with cement laitance. Drying and setting of the layer lasts at least a day, then work can be continued.

Cement laitance is cement diluted with water. Its consistency is more like liquid kefir. Most often, the proportions are as follows: take three or four parts of water to one part of cement. This operation serves to adhere the bedding. A fairly strong foundation is formed.

In order not to bother with setting the lag - a long and troublesome task - align it to the level. This is easier to do with the beacons installed.

Floor on poles

When installing a wooden floor on pillars, there is a subfloor. It may be insulated or not. The floor can also be cold or insulated in any of the options.

Floor posts

Floor posts are made of brick, small concrete blocks, or use the “FL” type. You can use bitumen-impregnated wooden blocks as posts. Some people place boulders of suitable size on the base with a flat top. Boulders - good support, but attaching logs to them is problematic.

Each column has its own foundation. The size of the base is 2-10 cm larger than the column. The depth of the foundation depends on the type of soil, but usually 10 cm is enough.

If groundwater is located close, the logs are raised. They make supports for them - brick pillars

There are two options for making bases for posts: make formwork for each separately, or fill it with a single tape. The first method is more economical in terms of material consumption, but the second takes less time: one or two general formwork do faster than many smaller ones.

The location of the supports is marked with a pencil on the foundation or on lower crown(on the element to which the logs will be attached). Then the threads are stretched between the marks, and the formwork for the posts is already knocked down along them. There are other marking methods, but this one is the fastest and most accurate.

The dimensions of the formwork for the posts are 2-10 cm larger than the post itself, the height is 10 cm. Several bars of smooth reinforcement are laid inside, on the compacted soil, and they are filled with standard cement-sand mortar. Wait for the solution to set for at least 3 days, then you can lay out columns on the base.

When pouring, it is necessary to monitor the height of the foundations: it must be the same. In principle, it can then be corrected by adding a solution, but again you will have to wait 3 days. Therefore, try to immediately make them the same height.

Ruberoid is laid on the finished base, possibly in two layers. Then the columns are folded. It is recommended to put roofing felt on top of them, and then also a three-centimeter wooden board impregnated with antibacterial compounds. Logs will already be laid on it.

As you can see, it takes a long time to make floor posts. If you need to speed up the process, you can supply ready-made concrete blocks or beams, you can lay asbestos-cement pipes on a well-compacted bedding. Some people put up boulders or tarred logs. There is another option - drive pieces of metal or asbestos-cement pipes into the ground, stick several bars of reinforcement into them and fill them with concrete. There is probably more than one option, because our craftsmen are famous for their ingenuity.

This is what the finished joists look like

By the way, there is another option, but without support: hanging logs. Such a wooden floor arrangement is possible in narrow rooms, which is not always the case (do the step of laying the joists a little more often than in options with supports).

Hanging logs - a super fast option

Warm and cold underground

If the logs are raised above the ground, there is free space underneath them. There are two ways out. Leave the subfloor uninsulated or insulate it. Moreover, in each of the options it is still possible to insulate the floor structure or not, and it itself can be single or double. So there are a lot of options here.

An uninsulated subfloor can be made with a single or double plank floor. Some options are shown in the figure. Moreover, the insulated floor is only available in one version - at the bottom right.

Floor options for joists with subfloor

You can insulate the subfloor very simply: lay any non-hygroscopic insulation on a layer of waterproofing (roofing felt, roofing felt, film, etc.). Expanded clay is often used; among modern materials, slab foam propylene has performed very well; it behaves a little worse, but it costs less, so it is also used often. Sometimes the space is filled with foamed polyethylene - all the insulation takes several hours, but they do this only with special devices, so you either have to rent them or pay a specialist for the work.

When using any of these insulation materials for ventilation of a wooden floor, it is necessary to leave a gap of at least 5 cm to the rough or finishing coating.

Warm and cold floor

Cold plank flooring with joists can be single or double. Warm - only double: the insulation needs to be laid on something. One of the options is shown in the photo.

A cranial block is attached to the joists on the sides below, and boards of the rough (skull) floor are laid on it. The bars should be thick enough to easily nail the decking. Can be used on subfloors unedged board, but just be sure to remove the bark and soak it well with antiseptics: woodworm larvae often nest under the bark.

Next, waterproofing (membrane or film) is laid, and insulation is placed on top. Here you can use all the same materials as for insulating the underground, plus (if you are satisfied with their ecology). But in the case of laying mineral wool, they must also be covered with waterproofing on top - they really do not like water, and when wet they lose their properties. The entire cake should take up so much space that there is 5 cm left to the floor boards.

Ventilation of wooden floors on joists

It is also necessary to provide for the presence of ventilation holes. According to standards, a room up to 15 m2 requires two vents, total area which are at least 20-30 cm 2. They are installed in the baseboards of opposite walls, covered with metal decorative grilles.

To do better traction and protect the underground from rodents getting into it, you can install a tin pipe in the air, on top of which you can install an umbrella

For normal ventilation of the floor of the basement part of the foundation, ventilation ducts must be provided. To be able to somehow regulate the flow of air, you can make dampers. Can be withdrawn ventilation pipe beyond the foundation, raise it above the base, and make an umbrella on top of it so that precipitation does not fall into it.

Wooden floors on joists are one of the oldest methods of flooring and the only one used in northern regions our country. Modern materials They have only improved ancient technologies, due to which the scope of application has significantly expanded and performance indicators have improved. Before proceeding directly to the consideration of various options, you should familiarize yourself a little with the engineering requirements for calculations.

Logs are distinguished from beams by their smaller size and mobility. If beams cannot be moved after installation and repairs are very long and labor-intensive, then logs are a mobile architectural element. They are much easier to install and, if necessary, repairs are carried out faster.

Before you start building a floor, you need to study the requirements regulatory documents to the size of the joists and the distance between them, taking into account the thickness of the floorboards.

Table of lag sections at a pitch of 70 cm

Table of distance between joists depending on the thickness of the board

In order to learn how to independently make calculations based on tables, it will be useful to consider simplest example. Initial data: room length 10 m, take floorboard 30 mm thick.

Calculation method

According to the table, with such a thickness of the board, the distance between the logs is 50 cm; with a room length of 10 m, 20 logs will be needed. The distance between the logs and the walls cannot exceed 30 cm. This means that we will have to increase their number by one piece, the distance between the others will decrease to 45 centimeters.

Important note. During calculations, all roundings should be done only downwards, thus creating an additional margin of safety.

There is no need to calculate dimensions and distances accurate to the millimeter; no one takes such measurements. By the way, during construction the absolute majority architectural elements and structures are measured in centimeters, the greatest accuracy is half a centimeter. Millimeters are almost never used during measurements.

Floor subfloor options

These types of floors can be installed on wooden and concrete base or on the ground. Each option has its own technological features, which must be kept in mind during work. As for the specific purpose of the premises, taking this parameter into account, the base of the floor and its performance characteristics. The technology of the device itself remains almost unchanged. There are, of course, options for warm and cold floors, but these features also have a common construction algorithm.

Installation of a wooden floor on joists on wooden bases

Such floors can be made in both wooden and brick buildings and can have several varieties. The features of flooring need to be considered at the building design stage. Not only the purpose of each room and its dimensions are taken into account, but also climate zone accommodation, microclimate requirements and financial capabilities of the developer. Below are step-by-step recommendations for constructing this type of flooring.

Depending on specific conditions, the algorithm can be slightly modified, but all main construction operations must be completed. The base can be moisture-resistant OSB boards or sheets of plywood. The design of the floor coverings provides for the possibility of laying insulation; the use of rolled and pressed glass wool or polystyrene foam is allowed. If there are insulation materials, then you should definitely install hydro- and vapor barriers.

Step 1. Take the dimensions of the room and calculate the number of joists, taking into account the above recommendations. Prepare materials and tools, make markings. Do the work slowly; mistakes made at this stage have extremely negative consequences. Eliminating them will take a lot of time.

Step 2. Start installing the logs from the outer wall ones. If the room has subfloors, then the logs can be fixed directly to them. To make work easier, it is better to use metal squares with perforations; such elements significantly speed up work and increase the stability of the joists. Using the mark on the wall, taking into account the thickness of the floorboards, align one end of the joist and fix its position.

Practical advice. When installing the outer joists, do not fix them immediately; first, you should only tighten the screws. This will allow you to make final fine adjustments.

Do the same actions at the second end of the log, constantly monitor its level position. Once the lag lays down normally, you can firmly fasten the ends and begin installing intermediate fasteners. The distance between them depends on the thickness of the boards that are used for the logs; it is approximately 70 centimeters.

Step 3. You need to stretch the ropes between the outermost joists; place all the remaining joists along this line. Constantly check with a level; installation accuracy should be ±1–2 mm. There is no point anymore, it takes a lot of extra time. A small difference in height will be removed during finishing of the front surface of the floorboards.

Step 4. If the floors are warm, then you need to lay thermal insulation between the joists; waterproofing and vapor barriers are used to prevent moisture from entering. The distances between the logs must be adjusted taking into account the length and width of the insulation. It could be like mineral wool either polystyrene foam or bulk types of insulation. If everything preparatory work completed, you can begin laying the floorboards.

There are options for installing joists on floor beams. These are so-called ventilated floors and are most often used for non-residential premises. There is no need to be particularly precise; size alignment is done using lags. The logs are attached to the beams with nails or self-tapping screws from the side. The algorithm of work is the same. First, the extreme ones are placed, a rope is pulled between them and all the others are fixed along it.

Ventilation is carried out through special vents in the foundations; the distance between the ground and the floor must be at least fifty centimeters. Otherwise, the air exchange rate does not meet the required indicators, and this causes damage to wooden structures.

Installation of floors on wooden joists on concrete

Such floors are considered more complex, labor-intensive and expensive; all wooden structures must be reliably protected from direct contact with concrete. Otherwise, the structures will quickly become unusable and will have to be replaced prematurely. Eat chemical method protecting lags from rotting processes using various impregnations. They are quite effective and actually prevent the process of wood deterioration. But unfortunately, impregnated wooden structures can no longer be considered environmentally friendly, and it is for this indicator that most developers install natural wooden floors.

If the logs are laid over the entire area on concrete, then waterproofing is required between them.

But they can also be secured using metal squares, which allows you to create a gap between the base and the joist. It must be borne in mind that at the same time load-bearing characteristics the floors are slightly reduced.

This fixation method has its advantages. Firstly, direct contact of wooden structures with concrete ones is completely excluded. Secondly, logs can also be installed on a black screed. With the help of corners you can eliminate irregularities of several centimeters; there is no need to make a finishing screed. This saves a lot of time and money.

The second method of laying on a concrete screed is to lay the logs directly on it; a material based on modified bitumen is used for insulation.

Laying logs on the ground

The method is used for outbuildings, bathhouses, gazebos, verandas, etc. The wood must be treated with antiseptics. It is better to have a columnar foundation; if you want to make a more durable strip foundation, then it is necessary to provide vents for natural ventilation in advance.

How is this floor made?

Step 1. Remove the topsoil. You can use it to fill the beds or level the area in front of the house.

Step 2. Mark the columns. The distance between them is selected taking into account the load and size of the logs. The posts can be made of concrete, block or prefabricated. The dimensions of the supports are approximately 40x40 cm, the burial depth is within 30 cm. A layer of sand ≈ 10 cm thick should be poured onto the bottom and compacted.

Step 3. Fill the supports with concrete. To prepare concrete, you should use two parts crushed stone and three parts sand for one part of cement. Water is added as needed. There is no need to make formwork in the ground; formwork from boards or OSB scraps is installed above the ground level. During the manufacture of formwork, you need to use a level; all edges must be strictly vertical.

Practical advice. It is much easier to make columns from ready-made blocks. Horizontal alignment must be done along the rope. After the outer ones are aligned with the hydraulic level, a rope is pulled between them. Deviations should not exceed ± 1 cm. This variation is eliminated during installation of the log.

Step 4. Proceed to fixing the lags; you also need to start work from the outermost ones. For precise horizontal alignment, you can use shims. It is not advisable to take wedges made of wood; over time, they will dry out and wobble will appear: the floor will begin to creak unpleasantly when walking. Between wooden structures And concrete surfaces It is imperative to lay two layers of roofing material for reliable waterproofing.

Step 5. After the outermost logs are laid, a rope is stretched between them and all the remaining ones are laid under it. The logs are fixed with metal squares on dowels and screws. To increase stability, it is recommended to install them on both sides. Floor boards can be laid directly on the joists or a subfloor can be laid first. The final choice depends on the characteristics of the operation and purpose of the room.

Always select joists with a safety margin, especially in cases where the installation method involves bending loads. It must be remembered that correcting mistakes made during the construction of floor coverings is always much more expensive than carrying out the work quality materials and in compliance with recommended technologies.

Choose your joist boards carefully. They must be absolutely healthy without signs of rot. The presence of through cracks and rotten knots is completely prohibited. If there are large healthy through knots, then you need to install the joists in such a way that there is a stop under them.

When attaching the logs, do not allow the possibility of wobbling.

Most loose joists cause very unpleasant squeaks in the flooring while walking. To eliminate such phenomena, you will have to remove floor coverings; this is time-consuming and expensive; it is not always possible to keep the dismantled materials in a condition suitable for reuse.