How to grow grapes from cuttings yourself. Grape seedlings from cuttings: harvesting, storage of planting material, germination and care How to grow grapes from cuttings in spring

Getting a good productive and profitable vineyard requires a serious investment of resources, time and effort. However, it is possible to get significant savings if you follow the generally accepted instructions and tips. There are several ways to grow grapes, and one of the simplest is cuttings. Such cuttings must be properly harvested, stored and planted. In addition, in the future, such vineyards will require high-quality care and protection from the cold. How to properly and simply organize this whole laborious process will be discussed in this article.

Landing dates

The period of care and harvest depends largely on the chosen timing of planting grapes. He will tell about growing grapes in the Urals.

spring

It is best to plant cuttings in the spring when the soil warms up to a temperature of about ten degrees Celsius. It is important to take all precautions against possible frosts (especially in the northern regions). Depending on the part of Russia, such a period falls, as a rule, at the end of April-beginning of May. Read about the Alpha grape variety.

According to the lunar calendar

The lunar calendar is often used by gardeners and gardeners for planting. It can also be applied to grapes. So, it is recommended to plant cuttings in the growing moon. In the current 2018 favorable periods will look like this:

• from the twentieth of February to the end of the month;
• from the twenty-first to the twenty-eighth of March;
• from the nineteenth to the twenty-seventh of April.

Preparing the stems

It is recommended to harvest cuttings from mid-autumn and no later than the first day of winter. The diameter of the scion should be at least a centimeter, and it should contain no more than eight, but no less than four buds. The cut is best made oblique. When choosing, it is also important to be guided by the length of the shoot - the longer it is, the better. Find out about Gurzuf pink grapes by.

Chubuki before planting should be soaked in clean water (preferably thawed) for two to three days. If landing is not planned in the near future, it is possible to carry out the treatment with potassium permanganate, wrap it with a film and send it to the cellar for storage.

If it is not possible to prepare your cuttings due to lack of time or the vineyard itself, there is always the opportunity to buy them in the spring at specialized sites.

It is necessary to choose only those cuttings on which there are live buds.

Methodology

The quality of rooting, the viability of the grapes and the future harvest will depend on how much the preparation and planting will be done.

Location selection

The site on which the landing will be made should be well lit and located on a small hill. Moisture will accumulate in the lowlands, which can cause crop diseases. The soil should be well drained with pebbles or artificial drainage. It is best to have vineyards on the south or southwest side.

From the choice of the right place for planting depends on the yield, speed of development and longevity of plants.

Grapes do not get along well next to other plants, so it is recommended to plant them at a great distance from them.

Necessary fertilizers

For the first time, fertilizers are recommended to be applied in the fall during the initial preparation of the soil. In this case, it is possible to introduce mullein into the soil. Further, complex mineral fertilizer (potassium salts, superphosphates, nitrogen supplements) is useful to put on the bottom of the hole when planting. With such top dressing, the plants will have enough food for three to four years. In the future, it will also be necessary to periodically make organic and mineral additives (litter, manure, compost, potassium salts, superphosphates, ammonium nitrate, urea). Read about the main characteristics of the Carmenere grape variety.

Landing features

Before transplanting the cuttings into open ground on the ridges, you can germinate the seedlings at home.

In bottles, glasses, pots

After the cuttings give roots, it is necessary to prepare a container for the seedlings. Glasses and containers, pots, bottles are suitable for this. They will need to be filled with substrate. It is recommended to plant at a depth of five to six centimeters. In cut bottles, it is important to add soil so that the top kidney of the shank is flush with the edge of the container.

Seedlings need to be watered once every two days. At one time, one hundred milliliters of warm water per glass (pot) is enough. It is also useful to periodically loosen the soil and make a small amount of top dressing. We should not forget about the temperature regime. Under these conditions, it should be from twenty to twenty-five degrees Celsius.

At the bottom of the pot or glass must be a layer of drainage. The amount of soil for growing is at least seven tablespoons.

Step-by-step instructions for planting in the ground

The area prepared for planting grapes is called shkolka. The scheme of planting cuttings in it is as follows:

1. Dip the top of the cutting melted paraffin for protection. Treat the lower part with stimulating compounds.
2. dig holes not less than seventy centimeters deep.
3. Put fertilizer on the bottom of the recess and mix them with the soil that is there.
4. Fill the hole with loose soil, make a recess for the handle in it with a stick.
5. Plant the cutting to a depth of about half a meter. Lightly compact the soil.
6. Pour in some water.

In the same way, it is possible to plant seedlings from glasses and pots in a school. To do this, you will need to lay them in a hole along with a clod of earth. Plants do not need to be removed from peat glasses. It is necessary to water the cuttings with warm water.

Video

This video shows the propagation of grapes by cuttings (chibouks).

findings

1. Possible to save money and time, since raw materials will be used own.
2. Before you land, you need to properly prepare and process the chibouks, as well as take care of the shkolka.
3. Grapes planted by cuttings do not need frequent feeding and watering.

Kirill Sysoev

Calloused hands do not know boredom!

Content

A beautiful vineyard is the dream of any gardener. To do this, it is important to be able to grow the desired plant varieties at home from cuttings, choosing the right breeding option. Learn how to grow grapes from cuttings: how to prepare and store shoots, kilch, plant them and take care of the school.

How to grow grapes from cuttings

Planting grapes with cuttings is a vegetative method. To get a good variety with a successful harvest, it is better to start growing grapes from cuttings at home or plant them. Only from healthy grapes will you get a strong shoot that will give good fruits and will not hurt. In order to master the technique of preparing a scion at home and correctly carry out cuttings of grapes in the spring for propagation, it is important to know the sequence of stages and the sequence of actions.

Procurement and storage of cuttings

Growing grapes from cuttings at home begins with harvesting a scion - this is a segment or a whole shoot that has managed to become stiff. Start harvesting them from mid-autumn, but no later than the first days of winter come. It is imperative to choose shoots with live buds, as well as from healthy and productive grape bushes. The diameter of the cut scion should be at least 1 cm, and the length should be from 4 to 8 buds. The more escape, the better. So in the spring it will be possible to choose a healthy piece and cut it out of the workpiece.

1. Sort and sign the prepared cuttings, using not paper labels, but plastic ones or by attaching a photo. If you cannot process the scions right away, then it is better to dig them in or wrap them in a bag.
2. Soak the chopped shoots well with water, soaking them for a day.
3. Soak the shoots for thirty minutes in a weak pink solution of potassium permanganate to disinfect.
4. Wipe them with paper towels, lay them out and dry.
5. After that, wrap the shoots with a plastic bag, tie them tightly and send them to home storage.

In the refrigerator or basement, where the temperature is from 2 to 6 degrees Celsius, or even on the balcony, grape cuttings are perfectly preserved, which can then be planted in the ground in spring. The main thing is to check them sometimes so that the shoots do not dry out, do not become moldy and do not rot. If something like this happened, then additionally perform the procedure of soaking, disinfecting and drying. Then pack them again and send them to storage.

Preparing for rooting

Growing grapes from cuttings at home and properly preparing them for rooting is as follows:

1. Using a pruner, make small cuts: one directly below the kidney, and the other 3 cm above the kidney.
2. To furrow the scion, run the end of a sharp nail from the middle to the very bottom.
3. Soak the cuttings in water for a day so that they are completely covered with it.
4. For another day, leave them at one end in a jar with a special stimulant.
5. Then lower the cutting into a jar of ordinary water by about 3-4 cm with the end, which has settled in a special solution. Do not confuse varieties and it is good if they do not interfere with each other.
6. After 12 days, the upper kidney should swell and germinate.
7. The water will gradually evaporate. Top it up from time to time.

After 20 days, roots should begin to grow. Once this happens, transplant the cuttings into the substrate:

1. At the bottom, pour drainage first, add a little substrate for the grapes.
2. Insert the cutting and fill with the remaining mixture to the top so that the green shoot is above it.
3. Water the seedling with water.
4. To root the seedling, expose it to the sunny side.
5. Pour a little so as not to flood.
6. Feed the plant if desired.

kilchevanie

This is a special method that ensures the formation of callus on the cuttings. It contributes to the rapid emergence of roots and good survival, not only when grown in the ground on an ongoing basis, but also for forcing. The essence of this technique is that the lower part of the scion is placed in conditions with a high temperature, and the rest of the cutting is kept, on the contrary, at a low temperature. This allows the buds not to bloom ahead of time, but the rhizome, on the contrary, to form.

The easiest home method of kilching is to plant a cutting in the ground, and cover it with a layer of peat or humus from above to a height of 10-15 cm. You can also cover with glass or polyethylene to create greenhouse conditions. If the ambient temperature is about 20 degrees Celsius, then the process of kilching will last within 15 days. If the temperature is above 24 degrees, then germination will take about 10 days.

Planting cuttings in school

A pre-prepared piece of land where grapes will be planted with cuttings is called a shkolka. For her, it is better to choose a small place that is very well lit by the sun. Transplantation of shoots to school is done as follows:

1. Somewhere in mid-April, it is necessary to dig up the earth to a depth of about 40 cm.
2. For 1 m2 of the plot, add 2 buckets of sand, one - humus and a small scoop of wood ash.
3. Dig everything carefully again and loosen the ground well.
4. Then make small mounds, in which the cuttings will be planted in the future, after paraffinizing the kidneys in advance.

Grape school care

During the entire period of growing a seedling at home, keep the soil of the school loose, without weeds. Thoroughly loosen the soil after each watering or rain. To feed the cuttings, it is better to use special organic fertilizers that are applied along with watering. Closer to August, in order to achieve better maturation of the vine, make a chasing. When 1-2 mature, stiff shoots appear in the fall, the seedling will be ready for transplanting to a permanent place.

How to propagate grapes cuttings in spring

Planting grape cuttings in the spring takes a little time:

1. Cut off the shoots immediately put in the water.
2. Cut each of them into cuttings with 2-3 buds. Make the bottom cut oblique, at an angle.
3. After that, plant the grafts in cups and create a dark but warm environment until they take root and begin to grow.
4. For the rest of the summer, the cuttings will be in such conditions, and in the fall they can be sent for storage, so that they can be planted in the ground or a bucket next spring, and only transplanted to a permanent place in the fall.

Video: how to grow grape seedlings from cuttings

Grapes are a very heat-loving plant and we are used to growing them on huge plantations, mainly in southern countries. But over the past few decades, through the efforts of breeders, many hybrid varieties have been bred that can bear fruit in central Russia, and even closer to the north in closed greenhouses. At an average ripening temperature of + 18 ° C, it is possible to get a harvest of juicy, fragrant berries in just 100-110 days. We will talk about the cultivation and cultivation of such grapes further.

How to grow grapes at home

Grapes are exactly the crop that does not propagate by seeds, since in this case it does not retain its original genetic characteristics. It is not always possible to buy a ready-made seedling of a favorite variety. That is why the most accessible and widespread vine propagation method - cuttings.

Its availability lies in the fact that at home it is very easy to save, plant and root cuttings of grapes, prepare them for planting in open ground or a greenhouse. It is best to do this at home, since the rooting process should begin no later than late February - early March.

The most important thing is to choose a grape variety capable of good rooting.

Now many hybrid varieties have this ability, since cuttings are one of the main areas of work of breeders. Most often, in the garden plot, gardeners like to breed table varieties that have excellent taste, sugar content, large berries (preferably pitted), with early or mid-season ripening. Almost all these requirements are met by varieties: Delight, Kesha, Pleven, different varieties of Kishmish, Laura, Kodryanka, Anyuta, Aleshenkin, Veles and many others.

Before planting grapes in the ground, it is necessary to germinate the cuttings and wait for the first leaves to appear.

Growing features

Growing grapes in a greenhouse or in the open field directly depends on the natural climatic conditions of the region. It is clear that in the southern regions in the open field, not only early varieties of grapes, but also later ones will have time to ripen. But in the Middle lane, the Moscow region and further north in open soils, only the crop of the earliest varieties will ripen.

In those regions where summers are short, winters are cold, it is best to grow vines in greenhouses in order to enjoy the taste of berries with different ripening periods for a longer time. But indoors, you will have to more carefully monitor the health of the bushes., microclimate, soil conditions, as cases of fungal and other lesions spread much faster. In a closed space, it is easier to prevent the appearance of typical diseases than to eradicate them.

Step-by-step technology for growing vines from cuttings

The whole process of obtaining rooted seedlings takes several months, but in terms of labor intensity it is not very difficult. Even novice gardeners who decide to go into viticulture are able to achieve the best results - this culture is so unpretentious, although it requires some attention. The main thing is to properly care for and carry out certain activities on time.

Sliced ​​grape cuttings

Cutting and storing chibouks

The very first stage is the preparation of planting material. During the pruning of grapes in the fall, when all the branches that bear fruit this year are removed, the cuttings are harvested. It is fruit branches that serve as the best material for future seedlings. What is necessary take account:

• pruning is carried out after leaf fall, before the onset of the first frost;
• the vine should be as straight, healthy, light brown or sandy as possible;
• the longer the stalk, the better the reproduction will be.

The branch should be without visible damage, with a light bark, on the cut - green, with droplets of liquid (juice) protruding on it, the lower cut is made straight, and the upper cut oblique. The length of the handle is at least 40-45 cm, the cut diameter is 10-12 mm + 3-4 living buds with a gap of 10 cm between them. Make cuts with a very sharp pruner or knife so that their tissues do not wrinkle, at least 2 at a distance from the buds -3 cm

Cut cuttings need to be prepared for storage:

• soak in cold water for 1-2 days, changing the water 2 times a day;
• treat with a solution of vitriol or potassium permanganate (it is best to soak for half an hour);
• lay out on paper napkins (towels) and dry well from excess moisture;
• collect the cuttings in a bundle, wrap tightly in plastic wrap, tie, fasten a tag with the name of the variety (if there are several varieties of grapes, you need to store them in different bags, since different varieties have a bad effect on each other during storage); instead of a film, you can use plastic bottles - lower the vine through the neck and close the lid.

Store the cuttings at t 0 + 5 ° C (a refrigerator, a glazed balcony, a basement will do).

Cuttings can be stored both in the refrigerator and in the basement.

Preparing for rooting

In late February - early March, they begin to root the planting material. First you need to check how the material was preserved. To do this, the sections are updated, each at a distance of 0.5-2 cm from the upper and lower kidneys, respectively, in an oblique and direct way - they should be green and moist. Then the cuttings are lowered into the water for 1-2 days (depending on the degree of dryness of the branches), to stimulate growth, add honey, aloe juice or humate (1 tablespoon / 10 l of water).

At the lower heel, where the roots will grow, you need to make several grooves with a needle 2-3 mm deep and 2 cm long - this will help to get a more developed, lush root system. The upper cut can be treated with paraffin.

Checking cuttings for safety

Sprouting cuttings in water

In an ordinary glass liter jar, put a layer of cotton wool about 2 cm at the bottom, pour the same amount of water (preferably melted water), lower the cuttings. The heel - the lower edge - should be in the water at a depth of 4-5 cm. To avoid rotting of the liquid, you can put 2-3 tablets of activated charcoal, add water periodically. You can put a plastic bag on top of the jar to create a greenhouse effect, put it on the windowsill.

Grapes, like any plant, need plenty of light and heat for intensive growth. Branches will appear first, and then roots. In order for the root system to develop, the sprouts should be broken off; for a bush, one, the very last shoot, will be enough.

Planting in pots in a greenhouse or greenhouse

The soil for seedlings must be prepared in the fall, mixing equal amounts of soddy soil, peat, sand, rotted manure or compost; a ready-made mixture from the store is also suitable. As a container, you can use plastic bottles, larger disposable cups, etc., make drainage holes. A little drainage is poured onto the bottom of the container, then the prepared soil, the stalk is carefully lowered onto it, filled with soil, slightly (!) Moistened.

The heel of the seedling should be at a depth of 1/3 of the container, and young shoots above the ground. Approximately until the end of May - the beginning of June, young seedlings will have time to take root well, develop full-fledged leaves and branches, and prepare for planting in the ground.

Planted chubuk in pots

Rooting in sawdust or soil

In the southern regions, where already in March the soil warms up to a temperature of 10-12 degrees at a depth of 10 cm, cuttings after processing and soaking can be planted directly into the ground - shkolka. Planting is carried out in prepared, well-fertilized soil to a depth of 40 cm. The cuttings are placed in pits (or furrow), covered with earth to half, well tamped, watered abundantly, pits fall asleep to the top. 2 buds should remain on the surface of the earth. Focusing on the climate of the region, you can mulch the surface or temporarily cover it with a film.

Another fairly common way to germinate cuttings is in sawdust.

Sawdust should be only deciduous trees, without admixture of harmful plywood or chipboard sawdust. They must be steamed before use - pour boiling water, then cool and in a deep dish (bucket), first pour a small layer to the bottom. Then, in an inclined state, spread the sawdust in layers, placing the cuttings vertically between them. After planting, it is necessary to cover the dishes with a film, put in a warm place and moisten the environment from time to time until sprouts and roots appear.

Rooting grapes in sawdust

Proper planting of seedlings in open ground

The technology for planting in open ground is simple. Ready rooted seedlings are first prepared for planting in open ground. To do this, within 5-7 days, seedlings in pots are taken out into the street, avoiding direct sunlight. After hardening, cuttings are lowered into pre-prepared holes together with an earthen clod, the holes are filled with earth mixed with humus, and watered with warm water. The main thing is not to bury the plant and water it moderately. In order not to damage the roots during planting, it is better to carefully cut plastic cups or other containers, then remove the seedling with an earthy clod.

Rooted grapes ready for planting

Be sure to immediately fix the support next to the grape seedling planted in the ground!

Germinating a grape cutting, rooting it and growing a seedling of your favorite variety of crispy sweet berries is not difficult. This can be done both in a polycarbonate greenhouse or greenhouse, and in open ground. Proper care for your pet - and he will thank you with active growth and a rich harvest, literally, in two or three years.

Fruitful grapes are propagated vegetatively - by cuttings, layering or grafting. Seeds are sown only for breeding purposes. Amateur gardeners successfully practice spring rooting of grape cuttings at home.

What is a stalk (chubuk) of grapes

A cutting is a segment of a stem with several buds.

These cuttings will grow vines.

For reproduction at home, lignified twigs are taken from a mature (brown) vine. They are called cuttings or chibouks.

Advantages of cuttings

Cultivation of grapes by cuttings is a simple procedure available to any grower, even a beginner. This method has many advantages.:

1. Availability of planting material.
2. The ability to quickly get a large number of seedlings.
3. The cuttings are compact, are at rest; they are easy to store, transport, send by mail.
4. Planting material is very easy to process from diseases and pests.
5. The cost of cuttings is significantly lower than that of seedlings.

Cuttings are the most common way to propagate grapes.

Lignified cuttings can be planted directly in open ground (spring or autumn), but very often home rooting is used (at the end of winter or spring).

Pros of the home option

• compact organization of space;
• the ability to control the process of rooting and development;
• removal of negative weather factors;
• a significant run in time, allowing you to grow strong bushes for planting in the current season.

When the snow melts outside the window, solid seedlings will already form from the cuttings.

Growing grapes from cuttings at home makes it possible to obtain full-fledged seedlings in the regions of sheltered viticulture(in the Moscow region, in Siberia, in the Urals), even on the northern borders of this zone.

Procurement of planting material

For winter-spring germination, cuttings are taken from matured (lignified, crackling, brown) annual vine. They are harvested during the autumn pruning of grape bushes (approximate time - in October, until negative temperatures are established, until the soil freezes). In uncovered areas, spears for propagation can be cut at the end of autumn and in winter - from the vine without signs of freezing or withering.

Harvesting cuttings is usually combined with autumn pruning.

It is desirable to obtain material for propagation from the most productive and healthy bushes with typical varietal characteristics. Smooth branches without spots and other defects are considered suitable. If possible, choose for cuttings. middle part those shoots that have grown from central buds of biennial branches.

The optimal cutting thickness is from 0.5 to 1 cm(for varieties with a thin vine, this figure may be less).

Too thick, fattening stems have loose wood, it is not recommended to take them.

Shank length

The length of the chubuk is not measured in centimeters. It is determined by the number of kidneys (eyes).

Three-eyed cuttings of grapes.

Most often use two-eye and three-eye cuttings., although one-eye and four-eye are also suitable. In the process of cutting, the antennae and stepchildren, the remains of foliage are removed (cut off) from the branches. Sometimes long vines are kept in winter ( 50-100-170 cm), and cut them before rooting.

The upper cut is made straight, at a height of 20-40 mm above the upper kidney. The lower cut is made oblique - under the lower kidney, stepping down a little from it (it will be updated before planting). It can be difficult for a novice grower to determine on a cut vine - where is the top and where is the bottom.

Sections on a stalk of grapes.

Straight and oblique cuts made directly near the growing bush help to sort out this issue later. (The photo shows that the pointed tip of the kidney looks a little up, but the antennae are often directed downward. A small scar is visible under the kidney: this is a trace of a fallen leaf petiole.)

Chubuki tied into bundles, bandaged in two places. Immediately attach tags with the names of varieties. Further, the bundles need to be stored for several months. They are pre-processed.

Processing before storage (step by step)

1. soaked in water(preferably rain) for 12 hours (received by shipment, dried up - for 24 hours); they are laid horizontally so that the water covers them completely, in a small layer;
2. disinfect: dipped for 15 seconds in a solution of iron sulfate (300 g per 10 l of water) or copper sulfate (400 g per 10 l); or sprayed with one of these drugs; after treatment with iron sulphate, the vine may then turn black - this is normal;
3. dry a couple of hours on paper or fabric;
4. some gardeners wax the tips (cuts) - dipped in paraffin (wax) melted in a water bath and slightly cooled (until a film appears on top);
5. put into storage as soon as possible, and before that they are wrapped in a plastic bag or cling film.

Pipes prepared in this way usually keep well.

Storing cuttings before planting

Humidity of 80–95% and temperature of +1 +4 degrees (not higher than +8) are considered ideal conditions for preservation.

Planting material is kept in the cellar (underground, basement) or in the refrigerator, as well as on the street - in a snowdrift or in a trench.

Snowdrift

A snowdrift with a thickness of 20 cm or more protects the cuttings well from frost, the main thing is not to let it thaw.

In areas with stable snow cover, it is convenient to store cuttings in a snowdrift, at a depth of at least 50 cm. In loose snow - optimal temperature and humidity.

Before snowfalls, the cut vine can be wrapped with wet burlap and kept at first simply in the garden on the ground, and with the arrival of frosts - in a cellar or other room with low positive temperatures. Chubuki are laid in the snow “naked” or pre-packed (in sugar bags, in cut polyethylene bottles).

Trench

Cuttings can simply be placed in a hole and covered with earth.

1. Dig a hole or trench deep in the garden 50–100 cm.
2. In it, bunches without packaging are placed vertically on a layer of slightly damp sand, covered with the same sand from above, then they throw the earth up to the upper edges of the pit and with a mound on top, cover with a film; apply also overlapping with slate or boards.
3. Sometimes they simply pack the vine in a bag of sugar (or in cut plastic bottles) and bury it in the ground to a depth of half a meter. The disadvantage of this method is that it will be difficult to get chibouks until mid-spring.

Some growers combine a shallow trench and (on top) a low snowdrift. The pit is not covered with earth, a cover is placed on it. With this option, planting material is easy to take at the right time.

in the cellar

When stored in the cellar, the cuttings are placed in a box with sand.

There are several accommodation options.

1. Chubuks are placed vertically, with the lower end placing:

• into potatoes
• in a small layer of moss,
• in slightly moistened sand (deepening by 5 cm);
• in a bucket of water (the water layer is only 3–5 cm).

1. Whole cuttings are buried in slightly moistened sawdust or sand (with an admixture of charcoal dust).

In the refrigerator or cellar

If there are few cuttings, they can be placed in the refrigerator.

Use packaging.

1. Chubuki are simply placed in a plastic bag (garbage bag) or in a sugar bag. The packaging is lowered into the cellar or placed in the refrigerator (on the door or in the vegetable compartment). Sometimes the vines are pre-wrapped (especially the bottom cut) in a slightly moistened newspaper. The package is not tightly tied. In early January, newspapers are opened once for airing and moistening.
2. Each stalk is wrapped in cling film.
3. The bundle is placed in a package of two cut polyethylene bottles. The joint is wrapped with tape. 1-2 times during the winter air.

There is also such a method of storage: the cuttings are kept on weight in a deep well (above water).

Timing of awakening (when do grapes begin to germinate?)

Experienced growers are advised to start this work in February (usually in the second half of the month) or early March.

Those who are accustomed to consulting the lunar calendar avoid starting rooting in the barren sign of Aquarius. The development of callus and roots is activated during the waning moon. Sometimes the influx of callus and roots are formed during storage; they need to be protected.

Processing before rooting

Disinfection of cuttings in a solution of potassium permanganate.

The cuttings are taken out of storage and washed with a solution of potassium permanganate (medium strength), if there are traces of mold. It is important to correctly assess the condition of the planting material, reject the bad one, and prepare the normal one for germination.

Preservation check

1. Examine the bark: healthy - without wrinkles and blackening.
2. Make a cross section of the stem. A thin layer of cambium under the bark and all wood should be a light green hue. But the brown, black, white color is evidence of death.
3. In several branches, the lower buds are cut. Living eyes are bright green inside.
4. When pressed with a knife near the cut, a little moisture is normally released from the wood. If there is too much or not at all, the rooting percentage will be low.

Soak

After inspection, the cuttings are placed in a container with melt water for 1-2 days.

• Not only overdried, but also normal cuttings needs to be soaked before sprouting.
• They are completely placed in a small layer of water.(preferably melted, snowy) for a period of 12 hours to two days.
• Room temperature- about +20 degrees.
• Water is changed every 12 hours.
• Sometimes a little honey is added to it (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water).

pruning

Long vines are cut into cuttings with 2-3 eyes.

Pruning a cutting of grapes under the lower kidney.

At chubuks, cut from autumn, update the lower sections. They are made directly under the lower nodes - obliquely or on a wedge. They work with a sharp knife, without squeezing the tissues. Cut branches are immediately placed in a container with a small layer of water at the bottom.

Some vine growers remove the lower bud, but this technique is not particularly necessary.

Waxing (preferred but not required)

The upper sections (height above the kidney 2–4 cm) do not renew. They are dipped in liquid paraffin (or wax) melted in a water bath and cooled.

Furrowing

Furrowing provokes the development of roots.

Roots are best formed in places of callus influx on wound surfaces.

This phenomenon can be provoked. In the lower part of the shank, several longitudinal grooves are scratched with a knife, deepening to the cambium or wood.

The length of the wounds is approximately 3-6 cm.

Stimulant treatment

Soaking cuttings in a rooting stimulant solution.

The lower part of the cuttings (the lower node and part of the lower internode) is dusted with Kornevin or soaked in one of the liquid root formation stimulants (solution Heteroauxin, Zircon, Potassium humate, HB-101 etc. - according to the instructions).

Rooting stimulator is sold in every gardening store.

The cutting is now ready for rooting. You can do without preliminary work, but they are all aimed at maximum success.

What is grape kilching

Kilchevanie is the creation of a temperature difference in the upper and lower parts of the cutting: warm from below and cool from above. When kilchevaniya chances of rooting increase.

An important problem in the germination of grapes is the awakening of the buds before the growth of the roots. Often, the stalk throws out greens, is depleted and dies before it has time to take root. Kilchevaniya helps to overcome this problem. In practice, at home, it is carried out in different ways.

• Heating from below (from +20 to + 28 degrees) produced by placing containers with cuttings on a battery or in a specially designed kilchevator with bottom heating. The temperature in the zone of the upper kidneys should be much lower - ideally +5 +10 degrees (in reality, at least not higher than +18). To create such contrasting conditions, the kilchevator is placed in a cool room. If they do without a kilchevator, keeping the containers on the battery, then they often open the window, and also construct a protective curtain-screen between the cool window and the warm air of the room.
• Very effective kilchevanie "upside down" when the seedlings are installed vertically “upside down”, moistened material is placed on top, covered with a heated lid. In the case of such a disturbed orientation, the kidneys do not wake up for a long time; roots form faster.

Pre-germination of cuttings

Before planting in a container with soil cuttings sometimes first germinate - until the appearance of callus and small roots (from 2 to 10 mm). The process lasts approximately 3 weeks, in a lit place (without direct sunlight). Germination can be combined with kilchevanie or carried out independently. There are various options.

The substrate, the fabric is regularly moistened, the appearance of roots is monitored. They must not be allowed to grow. A length of 2 mm is enough for transplanting into pots with earth. They are installed on a bright, warm window sill.

The cuttings have given roots and are ready for planting in containers with soil.

Tanks and soil

Plastic cups, cut plastic bottles, nurseries are suitable for growing grape seedlings with a closed root system.

The volume of the pot is from 0.5 to 1 liter (a little more can be). Drainage holes are a must.

The soil mixture is selected light: soddy land, compost, sand in equal proportions. It is possible to add peat, but not acidic.

Method of planting cuttings without preliminary germination

Scheme of germination of cuttings in a plastic bottle.

1. Wet soil is poured into a bottle cut at a height of 20 cm (with drainage holes at the bottom).
2. In the center, a hole is made to the very bottom with a diameter of 2 cm, a little sand is poured into it, then a cutting is installed, and the remaining space of the hole is filled with sand. It turns out that the grapes are isolated from the soil with a thin layer of sand - this will prevent it from rotting.
3. From above, the container is covered with a “lid” from the cut off top of the bottle, creating greenhouse conditions and high humidity.
4. The structure is installed on a pallet, which is fixed on the battery near the window. A curtain made of plastic film will help isolate the cool window sill from the room, frequent ventilation will lower the temperature on the window.
5. When the overgrown roots become visible through the cups, the seedlings are rearranged on the windowsill, the cooling is stopped.
6. The growing green shoots gradually harden, periodically removing the caps for ventilation. Then the upper part ("greenhouse") is generally removed.

The cutting is 45 days old, the kidney burst - rooting was successful. Now we grow a seedling before planting on the street.

Landing in the ground

The grown seedlings are hardened on a balcony, a window of a garden house or in a greenhouse at a temperature not lower than +10 degrees, preventing freezing (negative temperatures). They are transplanted into the soil in May or June (according to the weather), covering with agrofiber from the scorching sun and temperature changes ( for 2-3 weeks).

Grapes can be propagated by seed and vegetative methods. The first is used quite rarely, mainly grapes are propagated by the vegetative method. In this case, good results can be achieved using chibouks - grape cuttings intended for planting.

Growing grapes from chubuk at home

They must be harvested in the fall and planted at home in pots at the end of winter. In the spring, germinated cuttings should be transferred to the garden, after preparing the soil. By autumn, grape vines will already grow on your site.

All plants obtained by vegetative propagation are essentially cloning, so the resulting grape vines will be exact copies of the mother plant and will have the same properties.

Collection and storage of cuttings

Grape chubuki for growing at home, you can buy or prepare yourself. If you chose the second option, you should follow a few simple rules:

• for the selection of cuttings, it is necessary to choose a healthy vine that brings a large crop of quality fruits;
• it is better to harvest chibouks from shoots that are located in the middle part of the fruit arrow or on the replacement knot;
• for a chubuk, a shoot with a diameter of about 8-10 mm is suitable.

For the selection of cuttings, you must choose a healthy vine

To get a quality grape chubuk for planting, you must:

• cut off the selected shoot and separate the vegetative organs - leaves, mustache, top;
• cut the cuttings into 3-4 eyes long, while in the upper part the cut should be made obliquely from the kidney at a distance of about 2 cm from it, in the lower part - 3-4 cm from the lower eye also obliquely, at an angle of 45 degrees;
• make several cuts on the bark at the bottom;
• soak the cuttings for 12 hours in water, then soak them for 1.5 hours in a three to four percent solution of copper sulfate to disinfect;
• After that, the cuttings should be dried at room temperature.

Storing grape cuttings in homemade containers

The cuttings prepared in this way must be hermetically sealed and stored in a cool place. For this, the lower shelf of the refrigerator, cellar or basement is suitable. Please note that some of the chibouks may not take root and die, so they must be harvested with a margin. It is necessary to plant cuttings at home in late February or early March.

Proper preparation and storage of chibouks is a key point, if everything was done correctly, the further process will not cause great difficulties.

Preparing containers for planting vines

For planting cuttings, you need to prepare containers for seedlings with a substrate. Usually, plastic bottles with a cut off top are used for this. You can also take simple plastic cups. A good substrate for germinating grape cuttings can be obtained by mixing the earth with sand, humus and sawdust.

Growing chibouk grapes in plastic bottles with a cut off top

There should be no excess moisture, watering will be done through the pan, so it is necessary to make holes in the bottom of the cup with an awl for its outflow.

Preparing cuttings for planting

Before planting, you need to check the safety of the cuttings

Before planting, you need to check the safety of the cutting. Press on it with secateurs:

• if a little moisture is released from the cross section, the cutting is alive and ready for planting;
• if a lot of water is released, the shank is rotten;
• if there is no moisture at all, the cutting is dry and also unsuitable for planting.

Also, the safety of the grape stem can be checked by cutting it: a good seedling has a fresh cut of a light green color, an unusable one will have black specks.

In a good seedling, a fresh cut has a light green color.

Cuttings suitable for planting must be soaked in water for several days. Then they should be placed in a tub with a root formation stimulator for a day.

Soaking grape cuttings in water

Sprouting cuttings in a jar of water

The chibouks prepared in this way must first be placed in jars of water in order for the roots to sprout. You can put a 2-3 cm layer of cotton wool on the bottom of the jar and pour the same layer of water on top. Roots should appear in a few weeks.

Germination of grape cuttings in a jar of water

The room in which the containers with seedlings are located should be well lit. Usually they are placed on the windowsill in a room that is best lit by the sun. Precisely because sunny weather usually comes along with spring, it is recommended to plant grape cuttings no earlier than the end of February.

To make the seedlings grow faster, you can install fluorescent lamps above the containers with planted cuttings. Another option is to hang foil that will reflect light onto the containers.

Germination of grape cuttings on the windowsill

Method of kilchevaniye for germinating grape cuttings

In order to ensure the best growth for grape cuttings planted in containers, kilching can be used: if the lower part of the shank is warm, roots form faster than buds.

If the glasses with seedlings are on the windowsill, under which there is a radiator, the easiest way is to remove heat from it. To do this, you can put two bars on the windowsill, and place a piece of plywood on top of them so that it protrudes beyond the edge of the windowsill. Containers are placed on plywood. It will be heated by the air rising from the battery, and due to this, the lower parts of the containers will be warm.

There are more complex options: for example, you can use a heater for a terrarium as a kilchevator. In any case, it is necessary to ensure that the temperature at the roots of the cutting is not higher than 30-35 ° C.

Transfer to the substrate

Transplanted cuttings of grapes in the substrate

After the roots sprout, the cuttings must be planted in glasses with a substrate. It is necessary to plant to a depth of up to 5-6 cm. If tall glasses made from plastic bottles are used, the substrate can be added to them in such an amount that the upper kidney of the chubuk is at the level of the upper edge of the glass.

You can water every day or every two days. To do this, it is better to use warm water, pouring it into the pan. Another option is to water every five days, adding a glass of water (about 100 ml) at a time to the container.

In addition to regular watering, it is necessary to periodically loosen the soil and sometimes fertilize. As noted above, some of the chibouks may not take root and die.

Video - How to grow grapes at home from cuttings

Planting chibouks in the garden

Sprouted grape cuttings should be planted in the garden in spring in previously prepared soil. To do this, it is best to choose a well-lit area with loose soil.

Sprouted grape cuttings are planted in the garden in spring

In order for the grapes to take root well, it is necessary:

• before planting, dig the soil to a depth of 40-50 cm;
• add 2.5 buckets of sand, 1.5 buckets of humus and 100 g of nitroammophoska per square meter;
• re-dig the ground;
• prepare low tubercles for planting chubuk;
• plant chubuki and cover the soil with cellophane or roofing felt.

Plant sprouted seedlings at home in a permanent place in May. It will be better if you harden the shank for 5 days before planting, exposing them to the street. After planting the cuttings, the soil should be watered regularly so that it remains constantly moist.

Grapes are propagated by cuttings very well. If you act according to these recommendations, you will be able to grow strong and healthy seedlings at home, ready to be transferred to the soil. By autumn, vines with a strong root system will grow from cuttings planted in the garden.

Video - Planting cuttings and seedlings of grapes in the ground

If the gardener has a desire to propagate grapes on his own plot, then he can use two different methods for this. The first and easiest way is to buy seedlings in a special nursery. The second method, although labor-intensive, but more effective, is growing grape cuttings in winter at home. The second method has several positive aspects that distinguish it favorably, namely, the gardener will be able to obtain grape seedlings of the desired variety, while such planting material is much more stable when compared with that purchased in the nursery. To grow high-quality cuttings yourself, you just need to make a little effort.

Growing grape cuttings

Before planting cuttings in a permanent place, you need to prepare them first. Most gardeners do not have the necessary experience in this matter, because rarely has anyone done this before. The process of preparing grape cuttings is divided into several stages, each of which is of great importance:

• cutting;
• storage;
• preparation for landing;
• germination.

In order to succeed in this business, you need to know all the basic rules for growing grape cuttings, as well as tricks and secrets.

Stage 1: Cutting cuttings

In autumn, all weakened or damaged branches die off, therefore it is at this time of the year that it is recommended to harvest grape cuttings (chubuks). When cutting them, you must follow a few basic rules:

1. It is recommended to start cutting chibouks only when all the foliage has fallen from the bush.
2. Try to choose those branches that produce large clusters. The fact is that it is from such branches that the best planting material is obtained.
3. Choose a vine that does not have curved shapes. It is best if it is as even as possible.
4. It should be remembered that the quality of planting material is directly related to the length of the cutting.

Remember that cutting chibouks at sub-zero temperatures is by no means possible. In this regard, if there are already frosts outside the window, then cuttings can be made only next year. To cut the chibouks, you will need a pruner. Prepare a solution of copper sulfate and dip the cuttings into it immediately after cutting them.

Stage 2: Storage

In order for the chibouks to survive until spring, it is necessary to create the most favorable conditions for them. First of all, you need to divide the cuttings into varieties. Then the cuttings of the same variety are tied together and placed in a separate polyethylene bag, which is then wrapped very tightly. It should be noted that you will have to save grape shank until spring. The fact is that it is at the beginning of the spring period that they are planted in open ground. There are several places where grape cuttings can be stored quite successfully:

1. Refrigerator shelf. This method of storage is effective to use only when there are relatively few chibouks.
2. Basement. This method of storage is ideal for those gardeners who grow grape seedlings not only for themselves, but also for sale.
3. Country cottage area. There are those gardeners who have learned to save material for planting until spring, simply by burying it in the ground. It must be remembered that the cuttings must be buried to a depth of at least half a meter.

In the process of storing chibouks in winter, various problems may arise, in connection with this, it is necessary to systematically inspect them. In the event that you notice that the buds on the chubuk began to swell, this means that the temperature is high in the place where they are stored. If this is a refrigerator, then you will just need to lower the temperature, otherwise transfer the stalk to a place where it is colder.

Stage 3: Preparing for landing

In the event that the grape shank is well preserved, they can be quickly and easily prepared for planting in open soil. First of all, you will need to inspect each grape cutting, while you need to remove those that are unsuitable for growing. To understand whether the chubuk is suitable for planting or not, you can make a transverse incision on it. Examine the incision site. In the event that it remains absolutely dry, then such a cutting can be thrown out, the fact is that it is completely dried up and will not be able to give either roots or buds. A good growable shank will have moisture coming out of the cut. You also need to carefully examine the color of the cut. In the event that the stalk spent the whole winter in favorable conditions for it, then its cut should be painted in a rich green color. Carefully inspect the cut, as there should be no various inclusions.

After you have carried out a thorough inspection of the grape chibouks and their sorting, it will be possible to begin the procedure that will wake them up. Take a container of the required volume and fill it with lukewarm water. Then dip the grape cuttings into it. They will need to stay in the water for at least two days. After that, prepare a solution of a root growth stimulant (it can be purchased at a specialty store). When you take the chibouks out of the water, they must be immediately immersed in this solution.

Stage 4: Germination

This stage is the last and at the same time it is very important. In order to germinate cuttings, gardeners use two methods, so you can choose the one that is most suitable:

1. With the help of a glass. You need to prepare a large plastic glass. At the bottom, you need to make 3 large holes, it is most convenient to do this with an awl. At the bottom you need to pour soil mixed with compost. Then you need to take a glass of plastic of a smaller volume and cut the bottom out of it. After that, this cup must be inserted into the first glass with the ground. A smaller glass should be filled with sand and watered well. Chubuk should be stuck in the sand. In order to keep warm there, it is recommended to use a film made of polyethylene.
2. With a plastic bottle. You will need the most common plastic bottle. At its bottom you need to lay a not very high drainage layer. On top of it, you need to pour a layer of compost, nutrient soil or peat. The tip of the stem immersed in the soil should be at the same level with the bottle. On top of the bottle is covered with a glass of plastic. After the formation of the first young shoots, the shelter is removed.

Both of these methods are quite effective. However, in order to successfully grow grape chubouks, they need to be provided with systematic watering, as well as good lighting. It is possible to transplant cuttings into open ground only after they form roots and the first foliage grows.

Rooting lignified cuttings is the main method of grape propagation, accessible even to a novice gardener. The principles of growing seedlings from cuttings vary somewhat depending on the region and have many options, but the success of obtaining high-quality seedlings, subject to simple rules, is guaranteed. You just need to get cuttings of the variety you like somewhere and be patient.

Harvesting grape cuttings in autumn

The time when in autumn it is already possible to cut grape cuttings for early spring or even winter planting for germination comes when the leaves begin to turn yellow. During this period, they can be cut off, and after a week, cuttings can already be cut. However, you should not rush, because it is much more convenient to do this in late autumn, during the main pruning of bushes before shelter for the winter. By that time, there will be no more leaves, the unripened fragments of the vine will freeze from the first mild frosts, and everything will be “in full view”. It is not worth leaving the harvesting of cuttings for the spring: who knows what will happen to the vine in winter?

Often the top of the vine does not have time to mature during the summer period, and it must be removed. Actually, after the first frost, it is perfectly visible. A well-ripened vine crackles when bent. It is only advisable to have time with cutting before temperatures drop below -5 ° C. In autumn, cuttings should be cut longer than they are required for planting, with 5–6 buds, since in spring they will again need to be cut on both sides. The best shoots for cuttings are at least 5 mm in diameter, from the middle of a vine that has grown to at least one and a half meters in length. Thin cuttings will also take root, but the process will go more slowly, the seedlings will not grow so strong.

After leaf fall, choosing the desired section of the vine is simple, everything is clearly visible

If this first and simple operation is not performed correctly, further work may be useless. The most common errors are:

• cutting too thin cuttings;
• the cuttings were not taken from the middle of the vine: it is the areas from the middle of the shoot that are better stored, they have the most developed buds;
• cutting was done early: the vine ripens to the very frost, and you should not rush into this procedure.

Storage of planting material before planting in the ground

To preserve the cuttings until winter, you need a cellar or a shelf in your home refrigerator. They will have to lie there until about mid-February, the optimum temperature is about +1 o C.

Before sending to the cellar, the cuttings must be prepared. This will require:

1. Treat with a chemical preparation to destroy possible spores of diseases: you can use iron or copper sulfate (1% solution) or Quinozol (0.5%), soaking for a couple of hours.
2. Soak for 1-2 days in water so that they do not dry out too much during storage.
3. Air dry until visible drops are removed (you can simply wipe with a cloth).
4. Put in a plastic bag, leaving only the tops a few centimeters long outside, and tie.
5. Do not forget to sign the package.

If possible, not “naked” cuttings are put in the bag. It is useful to overlay them with pine or spruce sawdust, but first the sawdust must be scalded with boiling water. Coniferous resin favorably affects the safety of cuttings, protecting them from accidental mold. During the winter, sawdust should be changed once or twice. At the same time, carefully examine the cuttings for their suitability, throwing out the clearly blackened ones.

Before sending for storage, labels must be made indicating the variety and origin of the cuttings.

The maximum possible temperature during storage of cuttings is 6–7 ° C. Air humidity should be slightly less than 100%. Periodically, a revision of the planting material is required: if even traces of mold are found, the cuttings must be wiped and washed with a pink solution of potassium permanganate. If drying is found, soak for several hours (if necessary, up to a day) in water and send it to the cold again.

Work with cuttings stored in autumn in most regions of our country begins at the end of winter. First they need to be prepared for later life, it will not be easy anyway. To start cuttings you need:

1. Unpack.
2. Rinse in a dark solution of potassium permanganate.
3. Rinse with clean water.
4. Lightly dry.

Perhaps not everyone survived the winter well, so you need to check their survivability. If you slightly scrape off the bark of a living cutting, a green tissue should appear under it. Brown, yellow or black color indicates that such a cutting will have to be thrown away.

Now, from the long stocked cuttings, we need to cut those that we will plant. Short cuttings for certain grape planting patterns should have three healthy buds (two can be, if they are well developed, then that's enough). Grape cuttings with three developed buds are traditionally called chibouks. Cuttings with a large number of buds will give a lot of roots, which is not very convenient when growing at home.

The upper cut should be straight and located 2-3 cm above the kidney, the lower one (1-2 cm below the kidney) should be made obliquely.

In any case, the prepared cuttings should swim in the water for 2–3 days (preferably from melted snow), while you must be sure that this time is enough. The signal is the release of moisture droplets on the cut of the cutting taken out of the water. Sometimes this takes more time.

Then there are options. There are two of them:

• the most experienced and risky growers plant soaked cuttings in a container with soil just like that, without roots, and with careful implementation of all subsequent procedures, they get good results;
• for insurance, the cuttings are first forced to put out roots and only then, with roots, they are planted in pots or cups with soil.

But in any case, at the bottom of the soaked cuttings, it is necessary to make 3-4 longitudinal shallow grooves with a knife or a needle. This facilitates the growth of a stronger root system. Some amateurs use various root formation stimulants, but this must be done strictly according to the instructions, and good cuttings take root without their use. A natural stimulant can serve as a honey solution: a tablespoon per liter of water. Of course, success may also depend on the grape variety: there are varieties that are difficult to root.

You can apply shallow scratches with any convenient tool, this will greatly facilitate the formation of roots for the cuttings.

So, let's say you decide that you will plant cuttings in the ground only after they give roots. How to germinate cuttings, awaken them and force them to form roots? Here, too, there are several options, but one of them is quite elementary. To germinate cuttings, you need:

A slightly more complicated option is to use scalded coniferous sawdust instead of water. They are also poured with a layer of 4-5 cm, moistened with water, put cuttings on them and pour the same amount of sawdust. Sawdust is sometimes replaced with ordinary cotton wool. The option in which the cuttings wrapped in a wet rag are tightly tied in a plastic bag, leaving only the upper kidney out, apparently, should not be recommended: in the bag, both souring of water and breaking off of hatching roots is possible.

Video: germination of grape cuttings in water

Planting grape cuttings at home in cups or pots

So, in a container with soil, you can plant both cuttings that have already given roots, and simply soaked cuttings. There is a slight difference in planting technique and soil selection.

Planting germinated cuttings

If we plant cuttings with roots, then they already have very small green leaves. If three weeks have passed, there are leaves, but there are no roots yet, this does not mean that everything is lost: for some grape varieties this situation is normal, and you have to wait more, refreshing the water or replacing the sawdust. Cuttings that have taken root can be planted in pots or large glasses.

The optimal length of the roots is from 2 to 4 cm, but when planting, you should try not to break them off.

For growing grape seedlings from cuttings, it is convenient to use large paper cups or one and a half liter plastic bottles, cutting off their tapering top and making several holes in the bottom to drain excess water with a hot nail. At the bottom of any vessel, it is imperative to lay 3-4 cm of drainage from small pebbles or coarse sand. The soil is a mixture of equal amounts of fertile soil and river sand.

Cropped plastic bottles seem to be specially made for growing grape seedlings.

One cutting is planted in each container. You can do two, if there are a lot of them, but there is not enough space, but then the worst will have to be removed: you can grow two seedlings in one bottle, but they will be cramped, and then it will be impossible to plant them in open ground without disturbing the root system.

If the cutting had three buds, it should be planted so that one is in the ground, the second is close to the surface, and the top one is in the air. Two-eyed cuttings are buried almost entirely in the ground: the upper kidney should barely be visible from under it.

If the leaves on the handle have already unfolded, then the pot can not be covered, and if they just appeared from the kidney, for the first time you need to put a plastic bag on it, creating a greenhouse effect. The temperature during the growth of the cuttings does not play a special role: it should be room temperature, and good light is needed, so the containers should be placed closer to the window. In containers, the soil should be constantly slightly moist, but in no case waterlogged. The frequency of watering depends on the quality of the soil and the conditions in the apartment. Usually it is necessary to water in small portions every few days, sometimes once a week is enough. Water for irrigation should be slightly warmer than room temperature.

Video: planting cuttings in bottles

Planting cuttings without roots

Most grape varieties take root well without prior preparation, but when planting cuttings without roots, moisture and temperature should be monitored more closely. With proper observance of the conditions, the rooting of such cuttings is almost one hundred percent.

The requirements for capacity and the presence of a drainage layer are the same as in the case of germinated cuttings, but the soil mixture is prepared more loose: in addition to sand and soil, humus must also be taken, mixing them in equal quantities. Many amateurs generally do without earth and sand, filling the containers with boiled coniferous sawdust.

It is recommended to plant a grape cutting without roots so that almost all of it is in the substrate, and only one kidney is visible above it. However, experience shows that leaving two kidneys out leads to good results. At least in the examples of five different varieties, the author of these lines has never had to experience failure.

After planting, the substrate is well watered with a pink solution of potassium permanganate and the cutting is covered with a plastic bag. The best temperature for the formation and growth of roots is from 25 to 30 ° C, but they will germinate at a lower temperature, only in a warm substrate, root formation will begin much sooner. Do not overheat: if the recommended temperature is exceeded, roots may not form.

Until the roots have formed, it is necessary to water the soil often: about every other day, but without fanaticism. Excess water should drain through the holes into the pan. Many generally water “from below”: they put the pot in a bowl of water for a while, and then take it out of it. After 2-3 weeks, you can slightly pull the handle: if there is resistance, then the roots have begun to form. From this point on, less water is needed: it is better to let the soil seem a bit dry than obviously wet. Around this time, the leaves begin to bloom. As soon as they unfold, the package covering the stalk must be removed, and the "garden" should be transferred to a bright light.

It is necessary to water the cuttings carefully, excess water is more harmful than its lack.

Grape cuttings root easily if done correctly. Errors when planting cuttings without roots are more fatal than in the case of germinated cuttings. Here's what they can be:

• if the cuttings were poorly soaked or the temperature in the room is low, roots may appear and the leaves will not bloom. It is urgent to raise the temperature and water the cuttings with warm water;
• if the apartment is very dry, roots may appear, and the eyes do not even wake up and dry out: in this case, nothing can be corrected;
• if you do not furrow the cutting and try to get roots in heavy soil, the leaves may open, but the roots will not form, as a result, the cutting will die.

Caring for planted cuttings

Care for planted cuttings at home consists in observing the temperature regime, watering, organizing additional lighting. As already noted, the soil in the cups should not dry out, but stagnation of water is categorically excluded. However, in addition to soil moisture, air humidity is also of great importance, and in a city apartment during the heating season, as a rule, it is dry.

The simplest way out of the situation is that after removing the plastic bag from the handle, two open cans of water are placed next to the structure: one is flush with the pot, the second is higher, at the level of the upper kidney.

So that the removal of the package is not a shock for the plant, it can be taught to be without such a hat gradually, for several days removing the package for a short and then longer time.

It is best to place the "garden" near the window and the battery, but in March there may not be enough light for the good development of the future seedling. At the initial stage of cultivation, strong illumination is not required. But after the leaves unfold and the shoot begins to grow, most likely, you will have to add a fluorescent lamp or a diode lamp to the sunlight. The best temperature for plant development is from 25 to 28 ° C, but even at slightly lower values ​​\u200b\u200bgrowth will be normal.

A cold light fluorescent lamp can be placed directly above the garden

A month after planting the cuttings, they can be fed with a solution of complex mineral fertilizer according to the instructions, for example, azofoska or special fertilizers for grapes, such as Novofert. In May, it is gradually necessary to accustom future seedlings to fresh air, taking the pots to the balcony. From mid-May, in the absence of obvious cold weather, they should be on the balcony almost around the clock, and at the beginning of summer it is time to land in open ground.

When and how to plant grapes correctly, especially planting seedlings in the fall: https://klumba.guru/yagody/vinograd/kak-posadit-vinograd.html

Possible diseases and methods of their treatment

The quality of seedlings grown from cuttings directly depends on the bushes from which the cuttings were cut. If the bushes were affected by mildew, oidium or gray rot, the cuttings will not take root and grow well. It is from this point of view that the treatment of cuttings both before winter storage and before planting in pots with chemicals (potassium permanganate, Fundazol, Rovral, etc.) is extremely important. This treatment allows you to destroy the spores of infections on the surface and a significant part of the diseases that develop inside the wood.

During the germination of cuttings in water, infection may enter the water from the outside, which is prevented by changing the water in the jar and adding wood ash or activated carbon to it. Infection is also possible through sawdust used as a substrate. If the infection enters, the tissues of the cuttings die off or the young shoots rot. In severe cases, the death of up to 100% of the cuttings is possible. Therefore, periodic preventive spraying once a week with Fundazol or Rovral is not at all superfluous.

Already in the process of growing planting material at home, you can notice problems on young leaves. Symptoms of the disease are the same as on adult grape bushes. For example, unexpectedly and rather sharply, the leaves may turn yellow. Most likely, this is the most dangerous mildew fungal disease that affects not only leaves, but also young shoots. If the disease has not gone deep, when the first signs appear, the "garden" should be sprayed with Bordeaux mixture or Ridomil Gold.

Mildew starts with small yellow spots, but soon covers the entire leaf.

In another situation, the leaves may turn black, which also happens unexpectedly, the process progresses quickly. Sometimes this can happen simply from excess moisture or, conversely, from drying out of the soil. In this case, optimizing growing conditions can still save the day. This also happens because of too dense soil. You can try to urgently transplant: if the matter has not gone far and the roots have not died, a transplant can help. If the leaves turn black from diseases (and these may be the consequences of several infections at once), it will no longer be possible to save the cuttings.

Features of planting cuttings in the spring in a greenhouse or open ground

It is not always convenient to plant a garden in an apartment, often there is simply not enough space for this. In the conditions of the middle zone, and even more so in the south of our country, the cultivation of grape seedlings from cuttings can often be transferred to a greenhouse. And in the southern regions, they even practice planting cuttings directly into open ground.

Planting cuttings in a greenhouse

The period of physiological dormancy for grapes ends in January, and its cuttings can already be put on germination. However, for growing in a greenhouse, as well as in an apartment, all work begins no earlier than the end of February. All preparatory operations are identical to those performed at home (washing and disinfection of cuttings, cutting them into three-eyed pieces, etc.).

For growing in a greenhouse, cuttings are almost always germinated until roots form, placing their ends in a jar of water. Even more often, they are planted for the appearance of roots in wet sand immediately in the greenhouse, if only the temperature in it has reached values ​​of at least 10–12 ° C. This is the lowest possible temperature for root formation, but for guaranteed success, heating is needed in the root zone. Therefore, a greenhouse, in which there is no possibility of connecting heating devices at all, in the middle lane or in the north is not suitable for early spring cultivation of grape seedlings from cuttings.

During mass cultivation on racks, sand is poured with a layer of up to 15 cm and cuttings are densely planted in it. In amateur viticulture, we are talking about several copies, so any acceptable container can be used for sand. If the weather in the region is such that the greenhouse needs to be heated, you should not do this especially for grapes, it will be easier to grow seedlings in an apartment.

It hardly makes sense to use a greenhouse for growing several seedlings, but as a temporary, “transshipment” point, it will also fit in amateur viticulture

After planting the cuttings, the sand should be watered with warm water so that it is constantly slightly moistened. The optimum temperature in the greenhouse is about 18 o C, and the sand in the root zone is about 23 o C, the air humidity is about 75%. Under such conditions, roots are well established, and bud break is temporarily delayed.

After 2-3 weeks, leaves and rudiments of roots should appear at the same time. After another week, the cuttings are carefully transplanted into any containers of sufficient volume (large cups, cut plastic bottles, etc.). It is desirable that by this time the roots of the branch are at least up to 2 cm. The best soil composition for planting containers is soddy soil, compost and sand (approximately 40: 40: 20%). In the future, you need a high temperature, not lower than 25 ° C, and good lighting.

It takes about 2 months from planting in a container to transplanting seedlings to a permanent place. In May, it is necessary to accustom future seedlings to fresh air, opening the windows and doors of the greenhouse for a while. At this time, if the shoots have grown from several buds, only one, the most powerful, is left. If it grows too long, then upon reaching a height of half a meter, pinch the top of it: before planting in open ground, the main shoot should not be long, but strong, let it continue to grow in thickness.

Planting cuttings in open ground

In the southernmost regions of our country, cuttings can be planted directly in open ground. Moreover, this is often done even in the fall, immediately after cutting the cuttings, and at the same time they get good results. When planted in autumn, the cuttings take root well and, with the onset of warm weather, grow in spring. The stalk is completely buried in the ground in autumn, leaving only one bud on the surface. But for the winter they also spud it, and cover the bed with a film and sprinkle it with a layer of earth. In the spring, the structure is opened, a hole is cut in the film for escape. The stalk is unraveled only when the grapes clearly begin to grow and a steady heat sets in.

Spring planting of cuttings in open ground is possible when the soil at a depth of 10 cm warms up to 10–12 ° C, in the south this time falls on March. Processing of cuttings before planting is standard, keeping cuttings in a jar of water or wet sawdust is mandatory, at least until the roots begin to grow.

Cuttings are planted in open ground in spring only after they have given roots.

Cuttings are planted in well-fertilized soil to a depth of 40 cm: since this is open ground, you do not need to limit yourself to the size of the cuttings, they can have more than 3 buds so that the roots immediately grow powerful. Cuttings are planted with a slight slope, leaving two buds on the surface. If it is still cool, you can temporarily cover them with non-woven materials.

Features of cultivation in different regions

In the case of grapes, the process of growing planting material varies greatly depending on the climatic conditions of the region. If in the southernmost regions they rarely associate with growing seedlings at home, then in the north it cannot be otherwise.

Districts of the Kuban, including the Krasnodar Territory

In Russia, over half of the grapes are grown in the Krasnodar Territory. The main viticultural regions are Temryuksky, Anapa, Krymsky, the cities of Novorossiysk and Gelendzhik. The climate of the Krasnodar Territory is the best suited for viticulture. The weather conditions are slightly different in other regions, territories and republics of the Kuban region. It is warm enough everywhere, only the amount of precipitation in some areas can vary greatly. The soils are fertile, there is a lot of light, and this makes it possible to obtain rich harvests of grape berries.

The basic rules for planting in the Kuban do not differ from the usual norms, but seedlings are almost never grown here in a city apartment.

Most often, cuttings are planted directly into the open ground, and the “long vine” option is often practiced: in the fall, a piece of vine about one and a half meters long is immediately buried in a large planting hole, curled into a spiral and leaving 1–2 buds on the surface. For successful root formation in this variant, an irrigation pipe is carried into the zone of future roots, but a large layer of drainage must be arranged.

The soils in many areas of the Kuban are so good that many amateurs do not even dig planting holes, but plant cuttings in the fall "under the ramrod". So here they call the technique of making mini-pits with heavy metal scrap. They break through wells 10–12 cm wide, 10–15 cm deep deeper than the length of the cutting. Fertilized soil is poured into the bottom of the well (only half a bucket!), a long cutting is inserted, the soil is compacted, watered well, the well is filled so that there are no voids, and they are waiting for the result, which is close to 100% success.

Belarus

Belarus was not previously considered an area suitable for viticulture, but these times are long gone: now grapes on household plots are a common thing, although they require the application of strength and skills. The climate in the country is quite mild, although not very hot, many varieties of grapes successfully ripen. But the cultivation of seedlings from cuttings is almost always carried out at home, in extreme cases - in a greenhouse, usually heated.

Planting cuttings for cultivation begins here at the usual time indicated above - at the very end of winter. They use a variety of methods of germination, but they do it without fail: almost no one plants cuttings without roots. There is a lot of peat in Belarus, so they try to add it to any soil, and the soil for growing grape seedlings is no exception: the most popular mixture is peat with sand and a small amount of sod land. All other operations are completely similar to those described in the main part of this article.

Moscow region

The climate of the Moscow region is very similar to the climate of Belarus, but more unpredictable, although this applies to the winter period, when severe frosts alternate with unexpected thaws. Therefore, viticulture here is a little more risky, but this mainly concerns the shelter of adult bushes for the winter and the correct choice of grape varieties: it is somewhat limited.

As for growing seedlings from cuttings, it is carried out in the same way as described above, with a slight shift in timing: cuttings are taken out of storage in early spring. Their germination for the formation of root rudiments is mandatory, cuttings with roots are planted in a container with soil composed of a mixture of peat and coarse sand. They keep cuttings in containers a little longer than in Belarus, and plant them in a permanent place closer to mid-June.

Video: grapes from cuttings in the suburbs

Ural region

Well, who would have thought half a century ago that grapes could be grown in the Urals? Now you can, however, not any varieties, but only the most frost-resistant. You can also grow planting material from cuttings, and doing this is no more difficult than in the middle zone of the European part of Russia. True, with the timing here is a slightly different story.

Planting cuttings at home is carried out in the same way as in the Moscow region, but they are not planted in June in open ground, but are grown all summer: first in greenhouses or greenhouses, and from July in the open air. If the growth proceeds powerfully, in the summer the plant is carefully transferred into deeper containers (old buckets).

By the fall, they dig planting pits and, before the onset of frost (and often already in September), grown seedlings are deeply planted in them, if they already have at least two well-ripened buds. When planting, only one kidney is left on the surface, and it is spudded and well covered for the winter.

Grape cuttings make it possible to propagate the plant efficiently and quickly. The method is based on the ability of a plant to recover from a single shoot. At the same time, it has all the characteristics of the mother culture. The presented method is actively used for industrial cultivation of grapes. Since the culture obtained from the cutting has its own root system, it is called own-rooted.

Germination methods

First, cuttings should be planted at home. You will need plastic bottles or glasses.

Sprouting in a bottle

• Make holes in the bottom of the bottle. Cut off the neck.
• Put on a drainage layer.
• Add 7 tablespoons of soil.
• Place the cutting in the ground at an angle. The peephole should be at the level of the top of the bottle.
• Sprinkle steamed sawdust on top.
• Cover the stem with a glass.
• They put a bottle on the windowsill with an eye from the window. The cup is removed after growing the shoot. Watering is done by means of a pallet.

Germination in glasses

• Take 3 large plastic cups. Make 3 holes in the bottom of each.
• A mixture of earth and humus is placed at the bottom - the layer should reach 2 centimeters.
• Place a smaller glass on top of the ground. The bottom should be cut out. Soil is poured between the walls of the glasses. Then it is rammed and watered.
• Sand is poured into a glass located inside another glass. Watering is done, then the glass is removed.
• In the central part of the sand, make a 4-centimeter indentation with a stick. Place the cutting, water it.
• Pour sand on top, cover the glass with a plastic bottle without a lid and without a bottom.

In order to grow grapes, seedlings should be watered every day. The bottle is removed when 4 leaves grow on the branch.

Germination of cuttings in water (video)

Reproduction by green cuttings

• Place the shoots in a bucket filled with water.
• Then each cutting should be cut into pieces with 2 buds, and then put in water.
• It will be possible to grow grapes if the lower cut is oblique. When cutting off the top of the knot, leave a 2-centimeter stump.
• Ready cuttings are placed in glasses. It is important that they are in some shading. After the cuttings grow, it is removed.

Growing seedlings in the spring continues in the ground in a bucket, goes on throughout the summer. Seedlings are transplanted into the vineyard in early autumn.

Choice of cuttings

Before planting a grape cutting in the ground, in February it is checked for freshness by pressing on the cut with a pruner. If there are drops of water, the cutting is normal. If not, the branch is dry. If moisture flows without any pressure, then the stalk is rotten. The cut should be green.

Preparation and processing of cuttings

In order for the grapes obtained from the cuttings to grow well, the branches should be soaked in water. In this case, only those branches that are well preserved in winter are selected. Soaking is carried out for 2 days. The water should be changed daily. Then the branches are placed for a day in a root formation stimulator.

Germination technology according to Radchevsky

At home, you can grow grapes according to Radchevsky. The prepared raw materials are placed in liter glass jars. They should be filled with a few centimeters of water.

A vine stalk needs sun. You can put fluorescent lamps. After 12 days, shoots will appear. Roots form after 7 days. It is important to monitor the required water level in the bank.

At home, growing grapes should follow some of the nuances:

• Active root formation requires 100% humidity at the air-liquid interface. To ensure favorable conditions, a 2-centimeter layer of cotton wool is placed on the bottom of the jar. Gauze is placed on top. So the grape stalk will not hook on the cotton wool.
• If you grow grapes at home, you should pour water into the container, it should not reach the top of the "pillow" by 1 centimeter.
• A grape stalk feels great in a jar covered with cling film. At the neck it is fixed with an elastic band. One jar holds about 10 chibouks. Pierce the polyethylene with them.
• Properly selected temperature conditions will help to grow grapes. The temperature should be between 26 and 28 degrees. It will take about 10 days for the roots to appear.
• At home, blind the peephole located below, otherwise it will wake up earlier than the top one.

Using a grape cutting, growing an adult plant is quite simple. The culture perfectly recovers from the shoot, while the main characteristics of the mother plant are preserved.

Planting in a greenhouse

• Growing grapes in a greenhouse begins with the onset of warm weather. Seedlings are placed in a permanent place.
• The pits should have a diameter of 50x50 centimeters.
• At the bottom of each hole is placed a little rubble.
• One and a half buckets of humus, 2 liters of ash and half a bucket of sand should be added to the planting pit. Then the seedlings are planted and plentifully watered.

For several days they should be covered with planting material.

How to choose a variety

It is not enough to prepare the cuttings at home, you should still choose the right variety. It must tolerate adverse weather conditions well, be resistant to diseases and pests.

Also, varieties should be distinguished by the strength of the ovaries and good fruiting. Optimal option:

• "Delight";
• "Laura";
• "Harold";
• "Timur";
• "Galbenanou";
• "Friendship".

What to choose: trenches or beds?

You can grow grapes in a garden bed or in a trench. If you decide to give preference to reliable frost protection, choose a trench. The pit is good because the roots of the plant will be located deep. And in the summer it will be more convenient to water.

If the grapes receive insufficient heat in the summer, it is worth planting the cuttings in bulk ridges. In the spring they warm up much earlier. Moreover, the plant will receive an optimal air regime.

If groundwater is deep on the site, choose trenches. With close-lying groundwater, give preference to beds.

Growing grapes from cuttings is quite simple. First, seedlings are planted at home. The cuttings must be green. Transplantation to the greenhouse takes place in the warm season. Variety selection plays a big role. It should be ideally suited to your climatic conditions. You can arrange the grapes both in the garden and in the trench.

How to root grape cuttings (video)