Finishing walls with drywall frame and frameless methods. Once again about plasterboard wall sheathing How to sheathe walls with plasterboard in a panel house

Finishing the walls with drywall received its full recognition in the last decades of the last century. Today, GKL wall cladding (plasterboard sheets) is made in many dwellings. The environmentally friendly and easy-to-process material is one of the main tools for a wide variety of design solutions for modern interiors, both residential and public buildings. Finishing with drywall allows not only to close old walls, but also to create additional enclosing structures inside the premises. How to sheathe the walls with drywall in the house will be discussed in this article.

What is drywall

This building material was invented by the Americans. A sheet of gypsum is covered with cardboard, resulting in a fairly strong enclosing structure. Due to its basis, GKL is not difficult to cut with an ordinary hacksaw and drill with a drill.

Gypsum in a cardboard shell is so easy to process that it can be used to form internal fences of almost any configuration.

Fences made of this material are very easy to dismantle and install new walls in their place. The versatility of the surface of gypsum sheets allows you to carry almost any topcoat.

Physical properties of GCR

In accordance with the physical characteristics, building materials are divided into three types:

• Standard sheets (GKL) are used in ordinary residential and public buildings.
• Moisture resistant cardboard (GKLV) is used in conditions of high humidity. GKLV in its composition has various antifungal and waterproof substances. Sheets are distinguished by green markings.
• Refractory material (GKLO) is used near sources of high temperature (fences near the fireplace, stationary heater, etc.). The surface of the GKLVO is covered with a flame retardant composition. Refractory sheets are marked in red.

The purpose of the GKL and its thickness

The industry produces GKL of several types, depending on the location in the interior of the room. In this regard, GKL (dry plaster) is made in three types:

• wall;
• ceiling;
• arched.

wall

Sheets are used for cladding walls with drywall and installing light partitions. The thickness of such sheets is 12.5 mm. Wall material is intended mainly for attaching it to the supporting frame.

The frame is mounted from a special galvanized metal profile or wood.

Ceiling

Ceiling sheets are thinner, their thickness is 9.5 mm. The metal crate of the supporting frame is made in such a way that the step between the fasteners is no more than 40 cm.

Since the ceiling sheets are mounted on a metal profile frame, there is a space between the ceiling and the plaster ceiling. This allows you to install built-in lamps and conduct cable and wire communications for various purposes.

Arched

Arched drywall is even thinner - 6.5 mm. Curved surfaces of arches, ceilings and walls are lined with such material. Flexibility is achieved by wetting one side of the cardboard.

To form a curved gypsum surface, the sheet is treated with a needle roller, and then the treated surface is wetted. After some time, the sheet becomes flexible. Flexible material is fixed with self-tapping screws to the guides of the metal frame. After complete drying, the gypsum sheet becomes rigid again.

The construction industry produces drywall in sheets with a standard size of 1.2 x 2.5 m. Accordingly, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bsuch a sheet is 3 m 2. Along with this, sheets are made: 2 x 1.2 m, 3 x 1.2 m, 4 x 1.2 m.

Estimated price for 1 sheet of drywall

On the domestic market, GKL is mainly represented by 4 manufacturing firms. These are German Knauf, Finnish Giprok and two domestic Volma and Magma.

The cost of one sheet 1.2 x 2.5 m in rubles

GKL wall cladding technology

The technology of wall cladding with drywall is known in three versions. This is a frameless cladding method, installing sheets on a wooden crate and cladding walls with plasterboard on a metal frame. All these methods are not particularly complicated and allow you to sheathe the walls with drywall with your own hands.

Frameless method

The main condition for the frameless finishing of GKL walls is the restriction on the height of the room. That is, the height of the room should not exceed 3 meters (the standard length of a sheet of dry plaster). This method involves gluing the GKL to the base of the walls. To do this, use a special adhesive composition.

Wall cladding is carried out in several stages:

Preparatory work

First you need to prepare the walls. Old wallpaper, plaster and other remnants of the old finish are removed from the surface. Then perform the following steps:

• All cracks are puttied. Deep holes are sealed with cement mortar. The bulges of the wall are knocked down with a chisel or similar tool.
• Small delaminations are removed with a spatula.
• After that, the surface of the fence is primed with a roller and brush. The primer must dry completely.

Cutting GKL

Then the sheets are trimmed in the following sequence:

• In accordance with the length and width of the walls, drywall is cut into segments along the height of the room and the corresponding additional sheets.
• The sheet is cut as follows: a wooden lath is placed under the cut line marked with a pencil. With a construction knife under the ruler, make an incision along the intended line.
• With a sharp movement of the hands, they press on the unnecessary part of the sheet. The break is even. A special planer cleans the end of the segment.

Gluing gypsum sheets

Having decided to implement the finish in this way, you should do the following:

1. Places (beacons) for applying glue are marked on the prepared wall surface. Lighthouses are marked in a checkerboard pattern at a distance of 20 - 30 cm from each other.
2. On the packaging of dry glue, there must be instructions for preparing the glue mixture. In the absence of such, the adhesive composition is prepared by mixing 2 parts of dry powder and 1 part of water.
3. The glue is applied with a spatula in a circular motion.
4. Drywall is carefully pressed against the wall. Applying excessive force can break the sheet.

You can correct the position of the glued sheet within 10 minutes after its installation. The vertical facing is controlled by a special level.

Installation of plasterboard on a wooden frame

Before sheathing the walls with drywall with your own hands, make a wooden frame. For its manufacture, a wooden beam is used. Ceiling and floor beams, as well as vertical load-bearing racks, are made from a beam with a section of 50 x 60 mm. For the device of the crate, a bar with a section of 40 x 60 mm is taken.

The wooden beam must be dry and even. The tree is treated with drying oil with antiseptic additives.

For wall cladding with drywall on a wooden frame, you need to prepare the following tool:

• a hammer;
• hacksaw for wood, puncher - drill;
• level, plumb;
• marker;
• crowbar;
• screws, self-tapping screws, dowels;
• brackets.

To know how to properly sheathe walls with drywall, you need to study the instructions. A step-by-step instruction for finishing walls with drywall on a wooden frame looks like this:

1. Using the level, mark the attachment points of the ceiling and floor beams.
2. The horizontal beam is fixed with dowels using a perforator or self-tapping screws, depending on the type of fence.
3. Also, the side racks are attached according to the level.
4. The elements of the crate fill the space between the racks. The beam is attached to the racks with screws. In difficult places, retaining trimmings from a bar and a metal bent profile are used.
5. Do-it-yourself ready-made wall sheets are fixed with self-tapping screws to a wooden frame. Self-tapping screws are cut in increments of 30 - 40 cm. In difficult places, the step is reduced.

Since the thickness of the beam leaves a space between the wall and drywall, it can be filled with insulation. Even if the walls do not need insulation, laying under the cardboard will significantly increase the sound insulation of the structure.

Installation of plasterboard on a metal frame

It must be admitted that the lining of the walls with drywall with your own hands or by the forces of specialists should be carried out on a metal frame. The above methods of cladding walls with drywall are used only because of cost savings. Wall cladding GKL on a metal frame provides 100% strength and reliability of the enclosing structure.

For the installation of sheets, a special galvanized profile is used: UD and CD.

UD profile

It acts as a guide bar. The profile looks like a figured thin channel. The distance between the shelves is 28 mm. Profile height - 27 mm. UD goes on sale in lengths of 3 and 4 m. The thickness of the metal is from 0.4 to 0.6 mm.

The metal profile is installed at the top, bottom and sides of the wall. The frame from it is a supporting structure for fastening the elements of the crate, on which sheets of drywall are subsequently placed.

CD profile

From it form the supporting part of the frame. The crate provides spatial rigidity of the supporting structure.

The CD profile is made 60 mm wide and 27 mm high. They produce slats with a length of 3 and 4 m.

Auxiliary elements are used to connect the elements of the frame, as well as to attach it to the wall.

To mount the metal frame, you will need the following tools:

• a hammer;
• metal scissors;
• perforator, screwdriver;
• suspensions;
• dowel - nails, self-tapping screws;
• level and plumb;
• tape measure, marker;
• pliers.

Step-by-step instructions for installing plasterboard on a metal frame

To install sheets on a metal frame, follow the following sequence:

1. The metal profile is cut into the desired segments with metal scissors.
2. Guide profiles are set according to the level (ceiling, floor and side).
3. A perforator drills a profile through into the depth of the fence for the length of the dowel.
4. Dowels are hammered into the holes with a hammer.
5. Vertical racks are inserted into the guide bars. Fix them with screws using a screwdriver.
6. Then the vertical profile is connected by suspensions to the wall with dowels.
7. After that, they proceed to fastening the horizontal elements of the crate.
8. GKL on a metal frame is fixed with screws to the frame with a screwdriver.

Video:

Hats of self-tapping screws are slightly recessed into dry plaster. This must be done so that there are no protrusions on the putty surface of the cardboard.

Installation of communications and electrical fittings

Fastening of connecting elements is carried out as follows:

1. Before facing the frame with cardboard sheets, electrical wires and cables are laid under the frame under the walls. Communications are fixed with plastic fasteners. Plastic is fixed with dowels to the wall.
2. In pre-designated places in the cardboard, holes for sockets and switches are drilled with special crowns.
3. Mounting boxes for electrical fittings with special fasteners for cardboard are fixed in the holes.
4. The ends of the wires are led out through the boxes.
5. Housings of sockets and switches are installed in the boxes, connecting them to the wires.

Preparing walls for finishing

Finishing the plasterboard walls with puttying the entire surface. For puttying, you need to prepare the following:

• masking tape;
• starting and finishing putty;
• solution container;
• a set of spatulas;
• mixer or drill with a screw nozzle;
• rag.

GKL putty is performed as follows:

1. The starting putty is diluted in a container with warm water. Do this in strict accordance with the instructions on the packaging of the dry mix.
2. All seams are covered with masking tape with a starting mixture. All dents from the caps of the screws are sealed with a spatula.
3. After 15 - 20 hours, they begin the finishing putty. Finishing is prepared in the same way as the starting lineup.
4. Putty the entire surface with a wide spatula. In hard-to-reach places use a narrow tool.
5. After that, the walls are primed.

Finished walls covered with gypsum boards have high adhesion. On such fences, you can glue any wallpaper, lay ceramic tiles and other finishing cladding.

Sheathing walls with drywall is actually not as difficult a process as many might think, but it is the best way to level walls. What plasterboard wall sheathing gives us is smooth walls, hidden communications (wiring, pipes, insulation, etc.), sound insulation, and environmental friendliness. Therefore, in this article we will carefully consider the process of wall cladding with drywall.

Necessary material for plasterboard wall cladding

Before starting any construction work, we need to make sure that the necessary material is available. The first thing we need is a metal frame, which we will make using:
1. Ceiling profile PP, Parameters: height 27 mm, width 60 mm, length 3 m.

2. Guide profile PN-28/27, as can be seen from the picture, it has a U-shape and serves not only for wall cladding, but also for ceilings. Parameters: height 27 mm, width 28 mm, length 3 m.

4. Self-tapping screws for metal, size 4 mm, they are also “buttons”

5. Self-tapping screws for fixing drywall sheets, size 25 mm

6. A screwdriver, you can also use a drill or a hammer drill, but I personally find it more convenient to work with a screwdriver. In this article “Choosing a Screwdriver”, I described in detail what screwdrivers are and how they differ.

7. Scissors for metal or fortune (Bulgarian)

8. Construction knife, preferably with a sharp and strong blade

9. Drywall sheets, you should pay attention to the dimensions: the standard sheet size is usually 2500x1200x12.5 mm and weight is about 29 kg, but sheets can be up to 5 meters long, from 2.4 meters to 1.2 meters wide, from 6 to 24 millimeters thick

10. Measuring tool: level, tape measure, plumb line. Read more about the measuring tool here “Measuring tool in construction”

11. Well, for complete happiness, a pencil or marker

Not so long ago, drywall was attached to a wooden frame, either directly to the ceiling or to the wall. Currently, there is a metal frame for attaching to drywall. The collection of the frame for drywall has been greatly simplified. This setup will save you a lot of time. With the help of a metal frame, you can assemble various designs.

In the future, drywall is attached to the metal frame, and walls, arches, partitions, ceilings are obtained. The metal frame is galvanized, and thus protected from corrosion and oxidation, due to this property it will last a long time. The metal frame for fixing drywall is divided into two parts: the main and the carrier. The main part is fixed to the ceilings and walls, and the drywall sheet is attached to the supporting part.
Using scissors for metal, you can cut the frame for attaching drywall. In order to attach a drywall sheet to the profile, special screws and self-tapping screws are needed. The service life of such a frame is much higher than that of a wooden one, it does not rot, and there are no wood pests.

Assembly of a metal frame for drywall.

I saw and read on the Internet many different ways of mounting a metal frame, the principle is of course the same, but there are enough mounting options, so I will describe exactly the method that I experienced on a personal example.

At the beginning of the installation of the drywall frame, it is necessary to determine the exact location of the partition or wall. When assembling the frame, you need to make sure that there are wires for electricity and water pipes. We are planning a place for future metal structures. In this case, we use a laser level and a chalk line. With a laser level, we measure the distance of the corners, and with a chalk cord - the evenness of the future structure to the floor lines. We repeat everything too in relation to the opposite wall. We also measure the boundaries of the future door.
To mount the profile, it is necessary to cut out three parts of the wall frame: the bottom, ceiling and wall. We measure the length of the frame and cut it with scissors. At the place of the future door opening, in the profile attached to the floor, we leave the desired size. According to the dimensions of the lower profile, we mark the required width on the plinth. Then we cut out the marked distance on the plinth and follow the exact vertical cut.

The cut sections are removed with a nail puller. If necessary, we nail the edges of the plinth with nails, or screw them to the wall with self-tapping screws. The gap between fasteners should be approximately 60 cm. If fastening to concrete is necessary, a hole must be made through the profile using a special drill. We hammer fasteners with a hollow into the resulting hole.

Installation of a drywall profile must be reliable. It is necessary to take a wooden block and insert it into the profile along the circumference of the wooden opening. This will secure the door frame. The profile with the bar must be inserted simultaneously into the profile of the lower trim on one side of the doorway. Do the same on the other side.

To establish the profile of the door lintel, right angle elbows are required to attach to the posts. To fix the jumper profile on the racks, you will need special drywall screws. In order to check the horizontalness, it is necessary to use a level. The first post is installed by screwing it into the bottom and top frame profile. After that, it is necessary to rotate the profile of the rack to a predetermined position. For the remaining racks, the same procedure is performed, including here the rack above the opening. If necessary, we install spacers, in case they are needed for fastening heavy and small sheets of drywall. The base is ready, the next step is plasterboard sheathing.

The process of plasterboard wall cladding

Working with drywall is quite easy, it is cut very simply. To do this, mark the place of the cut by applying a level or even object, cut the line with a knife. Then lightly strike the sheet at the cut, after which it will break exactly along the marked line. Carefully cut through the cardboard on the other side and you will get a perfect cut.

It is necessary to fix the sheet with self-tapping screws for drywall (25). Try to screw in the screws at a distance from the edges, otherwise they will break off, the distance between the screws is: in the middle 20-30 cm, at the edges about 15 cm. After the first sheet is screwed on, attach all the whole sheets and then cut and screw on the inserts.

Well, this is where the plasterboard wall cladding is completed. , the main thing is not to be afraid and try to do everything with your own hands, because a thing made on your own brings more satisfaction. On this I say goodbye to you, for now.

Drywall is an excellent finishing material, indispensable for leveling or constructing partitions, walls, ceilings.
The article presents the technology of wall cladding with drywall, describes the methods of wall cladding with sheets of drywall.
After reading the article, you can independently, without the help of professionals, sheathe the walls with a plasterboard sheet with your own hands.

Drywall has been used for wall cladding for a long time. For example, in Russia drywall has been widely used since the 50s of the last century. True, the material produced in the 20th century did not have such high properties that make it affordable not only in terms of cost, but also in terms of the possibility of application.

Drywall has several advantages over other finishing materials:
- high fire resistance and sound insulation;
- low cost;
- low weight;
- ease of use, practicality and simplicity.

What you need to know in order to properly apply drywall for wall cladding?

Consider the main points of the technology of wall cladding with plasterboard.
For sheathing, various methods of fastening the material are used, frameless or frame.

For a permanently heated room, it is recommended to use drywall with a thickness of at least 12 mmIn a summer house for wall cladding, it is advisable to use a moisture-resistant, fire-resistant plasterboard sheet.

Do-it-yourself frameless wall cladding method based on the use of plasterboard sheets with a thickness of at least 12 mm.
This method is best used on a flat surface on which the old plaster holds well. In addition, the wall must be securely installed.
The stages of installation are divided into preparatory, assembly, finishing.
At the preparatory stage, old paint, wallpaper, plaster, dust, and dirt are removed from the surface.
Damaged areas are plastered, cracks are sealed. For high-quality sealing of the surface, cracks must be cut to a depth of at least 5 mm when filling. Check for surface roughness.
With irregularities of not more than 4 mm, drywall sheets are fastened with gypsum or mortar or putty.
If the surface unevenness is up to 20 mm, the sheets are laid using glue applied to the sheets in lines with a step of 25 ... 35 mm.
If the irregularities are up to 40 mm, then the plasterboard sheets are laid in two layers.
The first layer is made with sheets cut into strips up to 10 cm wide. The second layer is mounted from solid sheets and fixed with putty.
Of the tools necessary to complete the work, you cannot do without a tape measure, a sharp knife, a level, a jigsaw, a rubber hammer.
You will need putty, grout, paint mesh and adhesive tape.
For fixing drywall sheets, the use of special adhesives is recommended.

Frame method of fastening GKL
Installation of the frame is necessary with high unevenness of the walls and on wooden surfaces.
The frame method of wall cladding with drywall sheets involves the installation of a frame designed to level surfaces and fasten drywall sheets.

Frames can be assembled from a wooden bar or a galvanized metal profile.

For the construction of a wooden frame, it is recommended to use a beam with a cross section of at least 30 × 30 mm, carefully treated with antifungal, fire-fighting compounds. Of the compositions, liquids Aquatex, Senezh, Drevotex can be recommended. When assembling a frame from a wooden beam, be sure to leave gaps at the top and bottom for air circulation.
The bars are attached to the wall with dowel-nails. A self-adhesive substrate is laid under the bars.
It is advisable to use a frame made of timber in wooden rooms. This will allow you to get an absolutely environmentally friendly room.

It is more expedient to use structures mounted from galvanized metal profiles of the CD or UD type as frames.
CD profiles are designed to act as carriers, and UD type profiles are guides.
With the help of UD profiles, the flatness of the surface is set, and CD-type profiles allow you to create three-dimensional structures and create rigidity for the structure.
To cover the walls with drywall with your own hands, you must perform a number of mandatory work.
The preparatory stage includes cleaning the wall from dust, dirt, old paint and wallpaper.
Marking is applied to the wall using the building level.
The bearing profile is attached to the applied lines with self-tapping screws or dowels.
First of all, you should fix the extreme vertical guides. Pulling a thread between the extreme guides, a masking cord or fishing line fix the remaining guides, while maintaining the flatness of the surface.
Having fixed the carriers, proceed to the installation of reinforcing frame profiles. It must be remembered that the reinforcing and leveling profiles serve as the basis to which the drywall sheet is attached.
To stiffen the structure, U-shaped brackets should be used. By the way, U-shaped brackets must be fixed in the middle according to the markings.
When assembling the frame, always remember the flatness of the surface.

Vertical bearing guides are fastened at a distance of 400 ... 600 mm. Their length is equal to the height of the wall.

Drywall sheets are attached to the frame with self-tapping screws strictly at a right angle. The head of the self-tapping screw should be recessed by 1 mm. The step of fastening the sheets with self-tapping screws is 25 cm.
First of all, the sheets are mounted on the wall without openings.

Plasterboard wall cladding is a fairly popular type of apartment renovation.

Since drywall is the simplest and least problematic material, it is used quite often.

Such a finish can hide the flaws of the walls and bundles of electrical wires, if the work is done with high quality.

This article provides step-by-step instructions on how to make sure that the wall cladding with drywall with your own hands is of high quality.

More about drywall

There is nothing particularly difficult in plasterboard wall cladding. Not only a specialist, but also a simple layman will cope with this.

Drywall is a very popular material, so do-it-yourself plasterboard sheathing does not involve any particular difficulties.

In addition, this material is also attractive because it is environmentally friendly. If you use it in repairs, you can get a perfectly flat wall with a minimum of effort.

In favor of drywall is also the fact that you can choose absolutely any material, at your discretion. To date, the market offers several types of this material - both moisture resistant and refractory.

As mentioned above, drywall is a material that does not contain harmful components.

Outwardly, it is a rectangular sheet with a standard width of 1200 mm, while the length varies from 2500 to 3000 mm. The material is based on arched drywall.

The technology of the material is such that on the one hand it is covered with hard cardboard, and on the other hand it is smoother.

This material retains heat well and has high soundproofing, perfectly absorbs excess moisture. Sometimes plasterboard sheathing is done even in wooden houses and cottages.

Usually drywall is used to level walls and ceilings. In some cases, it is used to make partitions for rooms.

In a word, the scope of the material is very extensive - it is also used for arches, vaults, niches and other interior items in the house.

Depending on what you want to change or do in the house, one or more types of this material are selected.

Plain gray drywall is versatile and goes with just about everything. But it is best to use it in a dry house with normal humidity, since it is not moisture resistant and is not fireproof. Its thickness varies from 8 to 16 mm.

The next type of drywall is refractory, it is also gray in color, but differs in that various substances are added to it, due to which it practically does not ignite.

It is mainly used in the home where there is a high risk of fire. Especially often, escape routes from buildings are sheathed with such material.

Another type of drywall - with moisture protection. It is relevant in the house where the humidity is high. If you plan to sheathe an apartment, then it is best to use such material in a bathroom or toilet.

The next type of material is refractory drywall, which also protects against moisture. It is clear that this type is relevant in any home.

Drywall for arches is more durable, its bearing capacity is increased by adding glass fiber to the material.

Required materials and methods of sheathing

There are two types of plasterboard sheathing in the house - these are frame and frameless methods. The first involves fastening the material to a wooden frame using nails or self-tapping screws. In the second method, the technology is different - drywall is simply glued to the walls.

Each of these methods has its pros and cons. The method using a frame and wooden slats allows you to ensure the preservation of heat in the house.

But if you use this method, then the size of the room decreases, you need to separately do soundproofing.

The frameless method does not reduce the size of the room, but in order for the plasterboard wall sheathing to look neat in this way, it is necessary to cover the walls very evenly, which complicates the work.

In addition, such installation takes more time, because you have to wait until the glue that holds the sheets together hardens.

In order for the wall cladding to go without any problems, and you are satisfied with the result, you need to have the following materials and tools with you:

• knife for cutting drywall;
• screwdriver;
• laser level;
• scissors for cutting metal;
• roulette.

Whichever plating method you choose, the set of the above tools will be the same.

If the set of tools for both methods is approximately the same, then those who have chosen the wireframe method still need additional materials and tools:

• guide and ceiling profiles;
• drywall sheets;
• dowels;
• self-tapping screws (for metal);
• sealing and reinforcing tapes;
• ground solution;
• putty;
• direct hangers for drywall.

To finish the job faster, you don’t need to delay purchasing the missing tools.

Below is an instruction on how to make a wooden and metal frame.

What frame can be made?

Above it was considered what is needed for a metal frame, in this paragraph we will consider the process of its assembly.

If you decide to make a frame sheathing method, then you should think about the base. It can be different - some make it from wooden slats, and some from metal profiles.

First you need to draw two opposite lines - on the floor and ceiling, in order to properly fix the profiles for the frame.

Then, with a laser level, you need to make vertical marks on the wall where the racks will be. Usually they are located at a distance of 60 cm from each other - you need to consider that the rack should not reach the ceiling by 10 mm.

In the meantime, focusing on the marks, you need to fix the suspensions, which should be at a distance of 40 cm from each other. They will be needed to secure the profiles.

After the racks have been installed, it is necessary to strengthen the jumpers of the ceiling profile for greater strength of the frame structure.

This is done using the crab connector. Considering that the pitch of the racks is 60 cm, then the length of the jumper will be 54 cm.

Before constructing a wooden frame that is adjacent to the wall, it should be noted that such a design is relevant for those who have walls more than three meters or there are roughness and irregularities on the walls, which requires sheathing.

To do this, you need to make markings on the wall for the structure and find places with roughness that are supposed to be hidden. Then install the crate, taking into account the measurements.

They usually start with a bar, which is fixed horizontally on the floor. Then slats are attached to this beam in a vertical plane.

Their indentation should be 10 mm from the edge of the crate, a step of 600 mm should be observed between them.

After that, you need to check the correct angle of the frame using the building level, then another horizontal bar is attached to the ceiling, to which the slats are attached in a vertical position.

If the floor is uneven, then the frame is leveled with the help of wooden remnants from the slats.

Plasterboard sheathing

With the frameless method, drywall is attached directly to the wall. This method is chosen quite rarely for the reason that the walls are not always even in the house. This method is good because you do not need to install additional insulation from noise and heaters.

In addition, this method does not involve the use of a frame, wooden racks, which means that less materials are needed than for the frame method.

For the frameless method, only special glue, ground mortar, putty, reinforcing tape and, in fact, drywall itself are needed.

The glue must be diluted in the appropriate proportions, and then the walls are applied - the technology is extremely simple.

If the walls in the house are stone or brick, then it is recommended to use a spatula. Apply the adhesive solution in steps of 25 to 30 cm.

After that, a plasterboard sheet is applied to the wall, only you need to take into account that it should recede 10 mm from the ceiling and floor.

Thanks to this, the glue dries faster, after which you need to find the gaps and carefully close them with sealant.

Next, you can move on to sheathing sheets of drywall. If you want the house to be warmer, then you can lay mineral wool or other insulation between the racks of the frame. After that, you can move on to the skin.

The standard length of one drywall sheet is from 1.5 to 3 meters - when purchasing, this fact must be taken into account so as not to overpay.

Then the sheet is attached to the frame using self-tapping screws - it is applied to the middle of the rack and fixed with self-tapping screws, retreating 10 mm from the edge and observing a step of 25 - 35 cm along the vertical plane.

In the horizontal plane, the step size is equal to the step when the racks are fixed (60 cm).

If the sheet is not enough, then you need to cut the desired size from the drywall and fix it on the frame in a checkerboard pattern - this prevents the formation of gaps and cracks. Sheathing is best done with an assistant.

After completing the work, you need to do the final processing.

First you need to putty all the heads from the screws and the places where the drywall sheets are attached, and then they make a reinforcing tape on these joints and putty the wall again. At the end, the wall is primed and sanded.

Drywall firmly occupies a leading position among the materials used for rough wall finishing. This is not surprising - large and even sheets help to eliminate and mask surface defects in the shortest possible time, which makes repairs quick and easy. The material also has good sound and heat insulation properties, and this is an important factor in the repair of an apartment in our country, because most of the housing stock has obvious shortcomings in these matters.

Finishing walls with drywall has a number of nuances that need to be dealt with before proceeding with repairs, because our today's material is designed to shed light on them and talk about how to sheathe walls with drywall quickly and efficiently.

The success of the repair largely depends on the actions preceding the main work, and therefore it is worth recalling the key stages in the preparation of the material, the surface of the walls and tools.

Material calculation

The amount of drywall required is calculated quite simply - you need to calculate the total surface area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe walls, subtract the area of ​​\u200b\u200bwindows and doors from it, and then divide by the area of ​​​​one sheet of drywall. We will need some margin, and therefore we multiply the result by a factor of 1.2, if we are talking about a standard Russian room with a size of 10-20 sq.m. If the room is larger, then the safety factor can be reduced, if less, increased.

If drywall is used to improve the insulating properties of a wall, then it makes sense to sheathe it in two layers, in which case the amount of material needed is doubled. The same rule applies to partitions, because they will have to be sheathed on both sides. A standard sheet of drywall has a length of 2.5 - 3 m and a width of 1.2 m, but you can find or order more suitable options for you

Required tool

The set of necessary tools for cladding GKL walls depends on the method by which the installation will be carried out. If you decide to finish the walls with drywall with your own hands in a frameless way, then you will need:

• The material itself;
• Dry gypsum mix and a container in which you can dilute it;
• Knife, preferably a paint knife;
• Electric jigsaw;
• Rubber mallet;
• Roulette, fishing line and level.

If you plan to install drywall on the frame, then you will additionally need a number of metal structures and electrical appliances:

• Profiles and metal suspensions;
• Screws, dowels, self-tapping screws;
• Perforator drill or grinder;
• Screwdriver.

Surface preparation

Before you start attaching drywall to the wall, these walls must be put in order. The service life of drywall will directly depend on how carefully you have carried out the preparatory work, and therefore do not ignore this stage. Otherwise, the sheets may not adhere sufficiently to the wall, and mold or other bacterial environment has every chance of forming in the gaps, so the walls must first be cleaned of traces of the previous finish and any contamination.

If your walls have several layers of plaster applied at different times, they must be removed, otherwise it will inevitably begin to fall off over time and drywall sheets will fall off with it.

If, after removing the plaster, defects in the form of cracks and chips were found, they must be repaired. After that, the walls should be primed with a deep penetration compound and allowed to dry in accordance with the instructions on the package. Sheathing the walls with drywall with your own hands should be after the surface has completely dried!

Plasterboard wall cladding technology

With the help of a framework

This technology of mounting drywall on walls is based on the use of galvanized steel profiles. Previously, a similar method was also implemented on the basis of a wooden crate, but today its use in heated rooms is not relevant - the thermal effect negatively affects the tree and after a few years cracks go through it.

We have already cleared the walls, it remains to protect the electrical wiring and pipes with the help of gates and crossbars. Then we need to mark up the wall, which will be used as a guide. We set marks on the floor and ceiling, retreating from the wall about 4 cm, after which we stretch the rope between them and check the horizontal level with a building level.

In accordance with the marks, the guides should be fixed, after which the profiles are installed in a vertical plane. The profile should be screwed with dowels in increments of 30-40 cm, remember that careful adherence to the markings guarantees a quality result. Vertical guides are mounted with self-tapping screws at a distance of 60 cm from each other.

After we have prepared our frame, it's time to sheathe the walls with drywall with our own hands. Fasteners for drywall are self-tapping screws for metal, the sheets are stacked in a joint. Self-tapping screws should penetrate the surface of the sheet by 1-2 millimeters, but do not push through it.

After the plasterboard has been fixed in the profile, it is necessary to process the joints, holes from self-tapping screws and irregularities with putty. Having completed this part of the work, we completely cover the wall with a primer mixture and wait for it to dry. After that, the walls are finally ready for the front finish.

Frameless way

This method of attaching drywall to the wall is somewhat easier to implement, but it has a number of flaws, the main of which is the exactingness of the initial evenness of the walls. Just like in the previous version, we first prepare our walls - we clean and level, putty and primer. Brick walls with notches at the junction must be carefully brought into an even appearance.

Now we have to decide which side to attach the drywall to the wall - installation is done inside the back side, which is marked. Next, the adhesive solution is applied in accordance with the scheme below on the sheet of material. The glue dries quickly, so be quick when doing such work.

The attached sheet is leveled with a level and supported until the glue is completely dry. When preparing the adhesive, do not neglect the instructions and prepare it immediately before mounting the sheets. If you follow all the recommendations on how to properly fix drywall to the wall with glue, then there should be no problems.

Next, the installation of the remaining sheets is carried out, followed by puttying and priming, as in the frame method. We answered the popular question whether drywall can be fixed directly to the wall, but remember that in order to use this method, you must initially have fairly even walls. But you can save precious space that would otherwise go to the frame.

Pros and cons of drywall

Like any other material, drywall is not without its strengths and weaknesses. These products are characterized by low cost, ease and ease of installation, as well as good thermal insulation qualities. Some types of drywall, produced using a special technology, are characterized by high fire and water resistance. By the way, many people think that in the question of which side to attach moisture-resistant drywall to the wall, you need to focus on the color of the side - this is not so, the side on which the groove forms when the end is located at an angle is attached.

The disadvantages of plasterboard-based finishing work include high brittleness of the material and poor sound insulation, although the influence of the latter aspect can be minimized by using mineral wool laid between the wall and the sheet, or by gluing drywall to the wall with mounting foam.