Drywall - how to fix it? Step by step instructions, screw and glue. Methods of attaching drywall to the wall: on concrete, brick and wood Frameless installation of drywall

No renovation nowadays is complete without drywall. Walls are constantly sheathed with this material, various structures are made from it, and ceilings are finished with it. As a rule, to install plasterboard sheets, a frame is pre-installed on which the material is fixed. However, more and more often people are trying to attach drywall to the wall without a profile. What is this connected with? First of all, with the desire to save time, money and labor resources.

But is it possible to attach drywall directly to the wall? The question is ambiguous. Experienced craftsmen recommend mounting metal or and only then attaching gypsum sheets to it. However, with proper installation, it is possible to install drywall on walls without a frame. However, it is better to think everything over several times and unless the decision has no alternatives, proceed with the matter, since fastening gypsum boards without a frame just for the sake of saving money can result in large costs in the future. fasten gypsum board this way You can, for example, if you are renovating small rooms, such as bathrooms, toilets, balconies, then the frame will steal precious space.

One of the exotic ways to attach drywall without a profile is.

What is this article about?

Conditions for fastening without profiles

In order to attach gypsum plasterboard or gypsum fiber board directly to the wall, a number of necessary conditions must be observed, without which this procedure is simply impossible.

The wall must be vertical and perfectly level, that is, not have even the slightest slope. There are situations when the wall is not level enough and in such cases the frame is partially installed. Metal profiles in this installation option serve only as a leveler for the wall.

The height of the room should not exceed the length plasterboard leaf. The problem here is that when installing plasterboard sheets, it is assumed that the joints of different pieces of plasterboard will be located along the transverse metal profiles. If you attach the sheets directly to the wall, then you should not have transverse joints at all, since there will be nothing to attach them to.

If the wall has minor unevenness from two millimeters to two centimeters, then there is an option to level it with starting putty, to which ten to fifteen percent of gypsum must first be added. To attach drywall, it is recommended to use ready-made adhesive mixtures. The mixture must be applied around the perimeter of the entire sheet, as well as in one continuous stripe in its center.

If the unevenness is much greater, then instead of frame profiles you can use plasterboard beacons. They are plasterboard, cut into squares or rectangles of ten to twenty centimeters and serve to level the wall plasterboard sheets without frame.

After the adhesive mixture has dried, the plasterboard sheets are again secured with dowels in the corners and in the center. The dowels are attached so that they extend into the wall by at least forty millimeters.

After the final installation of the sheets has been carried out, it is necessary to putty the connecting seams, and also glue the mesh.

Video on the topic to help

Required Tools

For finishing you will need some non-standard tools. It's better to prepare them in advance.

Knife with replaceable blades for cutting plasterboard sheets;
Electric jigsaw or saw for working with drywall;
Strong thread. It will be useful to create a plane level;
Nails or screws;
Construction level;
Simple pencil;
Plumb;
Scraper to clean up edges plasterboard leaf;
Drill, whisk and bucket to dilute and stir the solution;
Spatula. It is better to take two spatulas - wide and narrow;
Rubber hammer;
Regular hammer;
Pliers;
Phillips screwdriver.

Let's also consider the materials that will be used during the work.

Plasterboard sheets;
Glue, for working with plasterboard sheets. You can also use starting putty if you add ten percent gypsum or PVA glue to it;
Water;
Primer;
Dowels. The size of each dowel should be from eighty to one hundred and twenty millimeters;
Serpyanka;
Glue.

Preparation for installation

If you are going to finish a brick or concrete wall with plasterboard, you must first clean it and spray it with a solution. Then the surface needs to be primed. The soil must be diluted strictly in accordance with the instructions provided by the manufacturer. If it says on the package that the primer is ready for use, then there is no need to dilute anything. You can immediately begin processing the wall.

If there is old plaster on the wall, you need to carefully examine it to identify weak spots and treat them with a solution and then with a primer.

It is strictly forbidden to attach plasterboard sheets to walls in rooms where there is constant dampness. And also, this type of repair cannot be carried out if condensation remains on the walls of the room. This will seriously damage the fastening of the sheets. In such rooms it is necessary to use special moisture-resistant plasterboard and attach it only to the frame.

Before attaching drywall, it is necessary to inspect using a level and plumb line for deviations from the vertical and in the alignment. If this is possible, then all convex areas must be knocked down and the depressions covered with mortar in order to perfectly level the surface before installation.

After priming, markings are applied to the wall using a pencil or chalk. If you do this before priming, then all the drawings will simply be washed away. Drywall sheets on the side attached to the wall also need to be coated with a primer before fastening. Beacons need to be cut out of waste plasterboard sheets and coated with primer on both sides.

If this is necessary, the next stage of installation is the installation of electrical wiring. In cases where the wire must run on wall projections, it must be buried in drywall. To do this, you will have to make special grooves in the sheet.

Mounts on flat and curved surfaces

If the wall surface is relatively flat, then you will not have to use beacons. Use a mixer to dilute the dry powder in water and make glue. If you don't have a mixer, you can make glue by hand, but then the process will take much more time and effort.

If you decide to add PVA glue to the putty, then first you need to dilute the glue in water, and only then add the dry powder. If you do the opposite, the putty will very quickly harden and turn into stone. Naturally, after this, it will no longer be able to be used for its intended purpose.

Apply glue to plasterboard sheets in one continuous strip around the entire perimeter on all edges. You also need to apply several cakes of the solution in a checkerboard pattern in the center of the sheet. The distance between the cakes should be about forty centimeters. To make the fastening sufficiently reliable, you need to coat more than a tenth of the surface with glue. plasterboard leaf.

Attach the sheet to the wall strictly vertically. It must be applied and pressed against the wall. It is best if someone helps you with this, since it is problematic to complete this process alone. Check how firmly the sheet is attached. If you have any doubts, press it harder in those places where the lag occurs. It is to take into account such subsequent adjustment that enough solution is applied to the sheet. If the solution is not enough, then theoretically the sheet can be peeled off, but it is better to avoid such situations, since during the peeling process the plasterboard sheet may simply break.

If the wall is tilted or rotated, you will have to use beacons. Use strong thread to create a net that indicates the desired verticality and plane. Next, the beacons are installed in the right places. They need to be installed so that they touch the thread frame. Then the drywall sheets are attached in the same way as in the first option. After this, secure the problem areas with dowels, and seal the seams with putty and sickle.

If you are attaching plasterboard sheets to a wooden wall or ceiling, then everything is much simpler. To install such sheathing, it is enough to screw the sheets to the wall with self-tapping screws or self-tapping screws. If the wooden wall is not level, this can be corrected by applying additional wooden overlays, and all bulges can be removed with a regular plane.

As you can see, there are different ways to install plasterboard sheets, but the most reliable way to install plasterboard is to install it on a metal frame. This is the only way the sheets will hold firmly enough.

Anton Tsugunov

Reading time: 4 minutes

Do you want to line the partitions in your apartment with plasterboard, but it’s a pity to lose precious centimeters that are already missing? Install drywall on unframed walls. This method is even simpler - you don’t have to bother with installing the profile. It will save space and create equally ideal surfaces. Even without extensive experience in repairs, you can cope with this task on your own.

Advantages of leveling gypsum board walls without a frame

This method of installing a gypsum board sheet:

Economical in materials.
Takes less time.
Produces less debris and dirt.
Installation and finishing are completely done by yourself, so you can feel like a pro.

To install gypsum board sheets on the wall, you need to purchase special adhesives. The most popular of them are the Knauf and Volma mixtures. You can also mix gypsum putty with a small amount of PVA glue.

The essence of the frameless method of fastening a gypsum board sheet

Installation of drywall on walls without a frame is carried out using a special compound. They glue the sheet onto the base surface. The joints are puttied and reinforced with tape. After priming, the wall is ready for finishing - wallpaper, decorative panels are glued to it, or painting is done at your discretion.

Since the sheets themselves are small in thickness, the overall area of the room is almost not affected. They are convenient to use when leveling the walls of small rooms: bathroom, storage room, loggia, and in other places where every centimeter of space is important.

Preparing walls for gluing plasterboard sheets

Before you begin installing drywall without a frame, you must.

It is easier to remove wallpaper with a spatula, after wetting it with water using a sponge or spray bottle. An excellent soaking effect is obtained when using a steam generator.

It is difficult to remove paint from a concrete wall, but it is necessary, otherwise the composition for gluing gypsum boards will either not stick to it or will tear it off from the base. As a result, the sheet will not hold.

Old plaster is tapped to detect hidden delaminations. Remove damaged and suspicious parts to a solid base.

If the layer of plaster is thick over the entire wall, it makes sense to remove it entirely using a hammer drill or a hammer and chisel. This will help save additional centimeters of usable space.

Additional wall treatment

Proper wall treatment before attaching drywall sheets to an unframed wall is extremely important.

Inspect the wall itself - repair cracks, fill in holes from old communications, and apply mortar to the places where large pieces of plaster have fallen out.
If necessary, make recesses for sockets, switches and wiring. Wires and junction boxes must be installed.

The latest generation of wire insulation means you don’t have to pack them in fireproof corrugation, so you just need to attach them to the wall with clamps.

Remove debris, use a brush or vacuum cleaner to collect dust from the walls and floor.
To ensure that the glue adheres firmly to the surface of the wall, it is primed evenly. In areas with fresh plaster, the primer is absorbed more strongly, so here it is applied in two or even three layers.

When installed under the gypsum board sheets, a poorly ventilated air gap remains. In rooms with high humidity, optimal conditions are created for the development of various types of rot and fungus. Treating the base wall with an antiseptic will help avoid this danger.

Since the gypsum board sheet has large dimensions (2500 x 1200 mm), clear a suitable flat area on the floor for working with it.

GCR can be installed only when the wall is completely dry, after all the procedures have been carried out.

Technology of frameless installation of plasterboard sheets

Before gluing drywall to the wall, you need to set the general level. Using the installation rule and a plumb line, vertical surface deviations are measured. The length of the wall alignment line is marked on the floor and ceiling.

A sheet of plasterboard is cut onto the entire wall at once. To reduce the amount of work, it is better to buy sheets the height of the room or larger. Then you won’t have to adjust and putty the horizontal joints.

GCR can be attached to walls in two ways.

Attaching the sheet with glue

The fastening technology will differ slightly depending on the degree of curvature of the walls.

If the differences on the wall are less than 4 mm, then the adhesive composition is evenly applied to the perimeter of the gypsum board sheet using a notched trowel. The sheet is placed in the chosen place, pressed and leveled by applying a rule to the surface and tapping it with a rubber hammer, not forgetting to check with a building level.

Important! The adhesive solution sets quickly. Find out experimentally what volume needs to be diluted in order to have time to produce it in one go.

A wall with a level difference of up to 2 cm will require thicker glue. It is applied to the surface of a sheet of drywall in cakes about 5 cm high at a distance of 30 cm from each other. Installation is carried out similarly to the method described above.

If the wall has differences of 4 cm or more, additional work remains. In the recesses it is necessary to glue additional beacons from gypsum board scraps. There is another method: fill the desired area with polyurethane foam, and after it dries, cut it at a general level.

Subsequently, the adhesive composition is applied to the dried beacons and directly to the wall. The sheet is pressed against the glue and aligned in all directions.

Fastening the sheet to the wall using polyurethane foam

Covering walls with this method is more labor-intensive, but it will provide greater reliability of fastening, regardless of the curvature of the surface.

The gypsum board sheet is pressed against the wall. In its corners, and in another 4–6 places, holes are drilled in the wall, making marks. The sheet is moved to the side, and the resulting marks are drilled out and dowels driven into them.
On the sheet, stepping back from the holes by 10–15 centimeters, glue pieces of the shock absorber (foam rubber, foam rubber). This distance is necessary for free expansion of the foam. The thickness of the sponge depends on the differences on the wall. Ideally they should be the same.
The sheet is placed against the wall. Screws with wide heads or an attached washer are screwed into the dowels. They also regulate the level, creating a flat surface. The remaining sheets are installed in the same way.
After checking the rule, a hole is drilled near each self-tapping screw. The tube for pumping polyurethane foam should fit into it without effort. Foam is pumped into the cavity through the hole. It should form a cushion between the wall and the sheet. The amount of foam is determined experimentally in advance. After the foam has hardened, the screws are removed.

Take your time to start decorating the wall with decorative materials. The adhesive base sets quickly, but it will take at least a day to dry completely.

A few words about safety precautions

Working with gypsum boards generates quite a lot of dust. Inhaling it will not add health to anyone, so it is better to protect yourself with a respirator. You should also ensure that dust does not penetrate into living spaces by curtaining the openings with a damp cloth.

Drywall is one of the most popular finishing materials due to its many advantages: ease of installation, safety, possibility of use in a wide variety of rooms and relatively low price. Let's talk about whether it is possible to cover walls with plasterboard without a frame.

Features of the use of gypsum boards

Drywall is used to mask uneven walls and build partitions. At the same time, not only an experienced builder, but also a less experienced craftsman can work with this material. Installation is possible on various adhesives and base surfaces.

Important! The advantage of this method over the frame method is that the useful volume of the room is “eaten up” to a much lesser extent. At the same time, the labor intensity of finishing work is low and can easily be done independently.

Frame VS frameless method - which is preferable?

To be fair, it must be said that sometimes installing plasterboard sheets on the frame is the only way to finish. Let's try to compare these two fundamentally different methods and determine the scope of their application.

Frame method

For the manufacture of frames, metal profiles or wooden beams are used. This method is used if additional thermal and sound insulation of the room is needed. They also use installation of sheets on the frame if the walls are uneven and cannot be leveled with plaster.

Frameless method

Installation of drywall on walls without a frame is carried out using an adhesive compound with gypsum or using construction foam and self-tapping screws:

Gypsum adhesive is preferred for concrete and brick walls.
Fastening plasterboard sheets with self-tapping screws is used for wooden walls.

Important! There is a limitation on the height of the walls (it should not exceed 3.0 m).

Required Tools

To level the walls without first making a frame, use the following set of tools:

A 1.5 m long building level is used to control vertical planes.
Jigsaw - for preparing plasterboard sheets.
A set of marking tools: pencil, rulers, squares.
Spatulas of different widths for applying the solution.
Construction grater.
Paint roller and brush - for applying primer.
Rubber hammer.
Electric drill with mixer attachment.
A screwdriver - if you need to fasten the sheet also with self-tapping screws.

Materials you will need:

Primer with antiseptic.
Basic and finishing putty on a gypsum basis.
Construction foam or special adhesive for drywall.
A tape made of serpyanka mesh to hide the joints between the sheets.
Long length self-tapping screws. Their length depends on how smooth the surface is. The depth of penetration of self-tapping screws into the wall is from 50 to 60 mm.
Foam rubber (optional).

Types of drywall

One of the best is the products of the Knauf company. The company is engaged not only in the production of construction and finishing mixtures, but also drywall with different areas of application:

Normal - used for rooms with low humidity.
Moisture resistant - used for bathrooms and toilets. Tile tiles can be installed perfectly on such a surface.
Fire resistant. Great for the fireplace area, near the stove and/or chimney.
Fire and moisture resistant. Suitable for finishing walls in attics, lofts or the boiler room of a private house.

Important! Cutting a sheet of drywall is a pleasure. No special devices are needed. A well-sharpened utility knife is sufficient.

Cutting order

In any case, this process will have to be performed, regardless of whether you plan to cover the walls with plasterboard without a frame or with it. The plasterboard sheet is cut in this order:

Place the sheet on a flat horizontal base.
Mark the sheet using a ruler or tape measure, draw the necessary lines with a pencil.
Using a ruler, draw a knife along the outlined line.
Slide the sheet over the surface and place it along the cut line.
Press the edge of the sheet and break it.
Cut the cardboard on the other side of the sheet.

Mixture for installing drywall on a wall without a frame

This composition is produced on a gypsum base with plasticizers, which ensure strength and good adhesion of the solution. Any adhesive mixture for frameless installation must meet the following requirements:

Minimum setting time.
Slight shrinkage when drying.
Homogeneity and plasticity.
Easy to apply.

Important! Please note that the gypsum mixture is not expired, since it has a short shelf life - usually no more than six months. It is not advisable to purchase the mixture in bulk.

The time to use the prepared solution is about half an hour, so it is better to prepare it in small portions. If the mixture begins to set, there is no way to dilute it.

Important! Experts advise buying all materials for covering walls with plasterboard with adhesive from one manufacturer (the same Knauf), as they interact perfectly with each other.

Polyurethane foam

This is a fairly popular material, and different types have different characteristics. Different foams have different expansion coefficients, so be sure to check their characteristics in advance. There are 2 types of mounting foams:

One-component, ready-to-use polyurethane compounds. They are sold in cans.
Two-component. These mixtures are used by professionals, since their preparation requires special equipment and precise proportions.

The advantages of using polyurethane foams are as follows:

Good adhesion to a wide variety of materials.
Resistance of the material to temperature changes.
Foam is a dielectric - it has no electrical conductivity.
Good sound insulation properties.
Easy to install, quick drying.
No toxic substances.
Fire safety.
Moisture resistance.
Small (no more than 5%) shrinkage.
High strength indicators.
Good thermal insulation effect.
Plasticity, elasticity, filling gaps and cracks.

How to cover walls with plasterboard without a frame - installation work

The entire cycle of work when covering walls with plasterboard is divided into several stages.

Preparation

The first stage is high-quality surface preparation:

If the wall is painted with oil paint or enamel that “cannot be torn off with your teeth,” make notches over the entire surface to ensure better adhesion. A hammer drill with an attachment or an ax is suitable for this.
Be sure to seal cracks and cracks in the walls. Fill them with polyurethane foam, and after it hardens, remove the excess with a sharp knife.

Important! For small defects, a cement-sand mortar is also suitable.

Clean the wall surface from dust using a wide brush or vacuum cleaner.
Treat the wall with a primer and antiseptic. This not only significantly improves adhesion, but also prevents the development of fungus, mold, and the appearance of harmful insects. Leave the finished wall to dry completely.
After the wall has dried, check its verticality using a building level or plumb line. If there are significant distortions, the wall will have to be leveled.

Alignment

There are several ways to level walls.

Method 1

To implement it you will need gypsum adhesive and pieces of drywall (kind of beacons):

The pieces can be square or strip-shaped.
Their number depends on the degree of unevenness of the wall.
Having determined the highest and lowest points on the wall, bring the latter to the same level as the first.
Now all that remains is to accurately draw out the remaining surface.

Important! Sometimes plasterboard overlays are made in 2 layers. The beacons attached to the solution after the solution has hardened serve as a support for the finishing sheets.

Method 2

As in the first method, start leveling by finding the “maximum and minimum” points. Next, start screwing self-tapping screws into the wall at intervals of 20-30 cm so that their heads are at the same level.

Important! In this case, self-tapping screws act as support for the plasterboard sheets. Mount the sheets with adhesive and you will have a perfectly vertical wall.

Installation of drywall on construction foam

This method is suitable for uneven walls. In addition, it makes it possible not to delay finishing work too much.

First, prime and dry the wall well, and then:

Mark 8-9 points on the sheet where it will be attached to the wall.
Drill holes in them for self-tapping screws.
Place the sheet against the wall and make marks on it through the slits.
Remove the sheet, and using the marks obtained in the wall, drill holes 5-6 cm deep for the dowels.
Drive dowel plugs into the wall holes.
Glue 12-15 pieces on the opposite side of the sheet. square pieces of foam rubber 15x15 cm. The thickness of the foam rubber is 1.5-2.0 cm. In case of significant distortions, it is advisable to stick the foam rubber on the wall. The distance of the foam rubber from the dowels is from 10 to 12 cm. The foam pieces in this case serve as shock absorbers.
Attach the sheet to the wall by tightening the screws through the pre-prepared holes. Constantly check the correctness of fastening using a building level.
Do the same with all sheets.
Upon completion of installation, drill a 7-8 mm hole at a distance of 2-3 cm from each of the screws. Pump mounting foam through the holes into the space between the wall and the plasterboard sheet.

Important! The foam hardening time in this case is at least 24 hours, since the process takes place without air.

Carefully cut off the excess construction foam that came out through the holes with a knife.
After the foam has hardened, unscrew the screws. They are no longer needed.
Reinforce the joints between the sheets with sickle tape, and then treat them with putty. After the putty has dried, sand the joints with sandpaper or an abrasive mesh.
Prime, putty and dry the wall, then clean it so that the surface is smooth.

The wall is ready for decorative finishing!

Video material

As you can see, installing gypsum boards on the wall is not so difficult. And there is no need to call a master to change the geometry of the room or recreate an intricate decorative idea in it.

Most often, plasterboard is used, which today, due to its advantages, is one of the best methods of interior cladding. Usually, for its installation, a special sheathing is constructed from a metal profile, but this may not always be advisable. In small rooms, for example, installing a frame will reduce its already small area.

Required tools and materials

To attach drywall to walls without lathing, you will need the following materials and tools:

plasterboard sheets;
powder mixture or construction adhesive;
primer composition;
bucket for preparing fixing solution;
a screwdriver with an attachment or a construction mixer;
jigsaw;
spirit level to determine the level;
construction or stationery knife for cutting sheets;
ruler, felt-tip pen, tape measure;
rule;
metal brush;
roller for painting;
rubber mallet;
smooth long rail;
spatulas.

Measurements and cutting

The initial stage of work is taking measurements of the room and cutting materials. Based on the measurement results, you can consider options for the arrangement of sheets and determine the most acceptable one. If the ceiling height exceeds 2.5 meters, in addition to standard sheets, you will need inserts that must be pre-cut.

The process of cutting and cutting drywall for inserts is as follows:

the line along which cutting will be carried out is indicated;
along the entire length of the marked line, a knife is used to cut one side of the sheet;
along the cutting line, bending inward, it is cut;
on the opposite side, at the fracture site, the cut sheet is cut into two parts.

Preparing the walls

The next step is preparing the base. Depending on the material from which the walls are decorated, various measures are taken to prepare it. So, for brickwork it will be enough to treat it with a primer mixture.

If the surface has been plastered, to avoid peeling of the putty and deformation of the slab, all coating should be removed, including all layers of finish, then immediately apply a primer coat.

If difficulties arise in the process of removing the old base, you will need to use a metal brush, with which dust, dirt and deposits are removed from the wall.

If during work the finish peels off from the base, you should carefully plaster the potholes so that the surface is smooth.

Let's take a closer look at the process of preparing the wall surface:

To remove paint or old wallpaper, it is better to use a hard metal spatula. It is important that it does not sag. Before removing the wallpaper, you should wet it well with a sponge and allow the water to soak into the wallpaper layer for some time and soak the glue. If necessary, you can wet the wall several times. As an alternative to water, you can use a special liquid to remove wallpaper, but it is not cheap, but the process of removing wallpaper is noticeably easier.
Plaster can be removed using an axe, hammer or hammer drill., making sure that the wall is completely clear of finishing, otherwise it may negatively affect the final result.
A layer of old paint can be removed using a small ax, with which the old coating is knocked off centimeter by centimeter.

Fixing composition

For work with drywall that does not require the installation of a frame for attaching drywall, adhesive mixtures are used. Since drywall is used for interior decoration, the basis of dry compositions is gypsum. Instead of glue, you can use starting putty or alabaster, but to increase adhesion you will have to add PVA glue or wallpaper glue to the water.

Let's consider several ways to use the solution:

when differences exceed 5 mm, the plasterboard is fixed to putty with a gypsum base, which is applied in a thin layer along all edges and in the middle of the slab;
with differences of up to 20 mm, the sheets are fixed using a special gypsum glue, which is applied pointwise at a distance of 30 centimeters;
for unevenness less than 40 mm, strips of plasterboard 10 cm wide are attached to the wall using glue, after which sheets are glued onto them using putty;
if the wall differences are more than 40-50 mm, the frameless method of attaching drywall is unacceptable.

A solution for fixing drywall to walls is prepared from a powder mixture and water. To prepare a 10-liter bucket, fill it a third with water and add the mixture little by little, constantly stirring it with a mixer or drill at low speed.

Knead the solution for less than 5 minutes, then take a short break and beat again, this will break up all the dry lumps. The consistency of the solution should resemble mashed potatoes.

Fixing mixtures, regardless of the manufacturer, harden fairly quickly, however, subsequent finishing of drywall can begin no earlier than after 24 hours.

Drywall installation

There are several ways to frameless fasten drywall:

Fixation with glue. First of all, in order to avoid damage to the drywall, which can occur when the walls are deformed, it is recommended to leave small gaps: 1 cm from the floor, 0.5 cm from the ceiling and between the sheets. To do this, you will need wooden pegs when fixing the material. A solution is applied to a sheet previously treated with a primer., after which it is glued to the base as quickly but carefully as possible. First of all, gaskets are installed in the lower edge, then after positioning the sheet according to the lower marks, the rest of it is fixed. Using a rule or level, lightly tapping with a rubber hammer adjusts the unevenness, but it is not advisable to knock on the tool. The alignment process is controlled as follows: determined the location of the unevenness, removed the tool, leveled it and adjusted the level again. After leveling is completed, the slab should be supported for a while with a wooden lath. If the differences in the wall are significant, guides are used for installation, which are installed in places of greatest difference, compensating for them with a large amount of glue. The sheets should be aligned carefully so as not to deform it. Upon completion of the work, the joints of the sheets are glued with fiberglass mesh, and after the solution has dried, they are puttied. Roughness and unevenness are rubbed down with sandpaper, the surface is cleaned of dust and primed.
Installation with self-tapping screws. This method is a little more complicated than the previous one, but more reliable. Suitable for walls with large irregularities. In addition to the basic set of materials and tools, you will need polyurethane foam and foam rubber (thin ones will not work). Before attaching the sheets, the walls must be treated with a primer. Then the previously cut slabs are applied to the base, and holes are drilled in constant steps at ten points, which serve as a marker. Remove the slab and drive anchors into the holes using markers. Foam rubber is glued onto the sheet at a distance of 9-11 centimeters from the holes, which acts as a shock absorber, then it is leaned against the wall and fixed with self-tapping screws. Drywall is fastened using a level by screwing in and unscrewing screws. To fix the sheet, a hole with a circumference of about 5 mm is drilled near each screw, into which polyurethane foam will be poured. Before pouring, it is advisable to practice with the dosage; it is necessary that after the foam comes out, a spot with a diameter of 12-15 centimeters will form. If there are electrical switches or sockets on the walls, holes for them are pre-cut. After the foam has hardened, the screws are removed and the resulting holes are covered with putty. Then you can proceed to the final stage of work - sealing the seams and installing skirting boards.

Let's get acquainted with the features of installing the material on a base with varying degrees of differences:

If unevenness exceeds 4 mm, the sheets can be installed from any angle and close to each other. If the material is attached to a wooden base, you can use nails with large heads that go shallow into the drywall.
For differences of up to 20 mm, the sheets are laid on glue from the corner close to each other. Any glue that may appear at the joints should be carefully removed.
Installation of drywall with unevenness up to 40 mm is carried out by cutting the sheets into strips half a meter wide, and they are attached vertically to the base.

Completion of work

After completing the installation of drywall using a frameless method, the joints between the sheets should be securely sealed. At this stage, the joints are filled with putty and reinforcing glass tape is glued, which is covered with a finishing layer of plaster.

After the surface has dried, all irregularities and roughness are rubbed off using sanding paper.

It is important to reliably align and adhere the material to the openings for windows and doors. In a room with plastic windows, finishing of the fit is carried out using a plastic profile. The gaps above the floor are covered with plinth, and the gaps under the ceiling are puttied or covered with ceiling plinth.

Finishing with plasterboard may require the use of shaped inserts. To do this, you will need to use an electric jigsaw, which can be used to create beautiful shapes with smooth edges.
When cleaning the surface there will be a lot of dust, Therefore, it is recommended to use a respirator or mask, and periodically spray the base with water.
The ceiling height when installing drywall without sheathing should not exceed three meters due to the fact that the technology does not provide for horizontal joints.
If the sheet is deformed during installation of the material, it can be restored. So, shallow scratches and chips are smoothed out with putty. To do this, clean the scratched area from dust, remove torn parts of the cardboard and repair the damage with universal putty or gypsum mixture. If there are any irregularities, after the putty has dried, they are sanded with sandpaper.
Deep damage is repaired by applying a patch. A hole is cut out in a previously cleaned damaged area so that its circumference in depth is larger than the circumference of the outer edge. A patch is cut out of drywall so that it fits tightly into the hole. On the other side it is secured with a wooden plank. On the outside, the patch is reinforced with fabric and puttied. After drying, sand it.
In rooms with a large number of electrical appliances and hidden wiring, it is recommended to use fire-resistant material, which will prevent the occurrence of fire hazards.

To fasten plasterboard sheets, a frame method is often used using metal profiles or slats to create lathing. The material attached to the frame is able to hide all communications provided in the room. This method is not applicable in every case, since it is more expensive. The frameless mounting method does not involve the use of a profile, so it saves living space in the room.

Methods for fixing gypsum boards without a profile

In order not to carry out tedious installation of profiles and not to spend extra money, you should use slabs whose thickness is no more than 1.2 cm. The smallest value of this parameter removes excess load from the wall after fixing plasterboard sheets to a vertical surface. This option is only suitable for walls whose height is less than 3 m.

To install drywall on a wall without profiles, you can use the adhesive method. There are 3 varieties of this fastening method. All work can be done using putty and glue, so drywall is strengthened on the basis of:

Puttying with gypsum composition.
Gluing with special glue.
Based on a combination of methods.

The first method is used if the surface of the walls has deviations of no more than 4 mm. They are leveled using sheets of drywall secured with putty. The mixture must include gypsum. The central part and the edges along the perimeter of the plasterboard are treated with an adhesive substance. The second method is suitable if the walls have unevenness with a deviation of 4-20 mm. To glue drywall, you will need an adhesive that has a special purpose. It must be applied to the sheet material in separate lines in increments of 35 cm.

The combined option is based on combining each of the 2 methods of fastening plasterboard sheets without a profile. The wall surface may have a deviation of up to 40 mm. First, gypsum board strips 10 cm wide are glued onto the leveled walls. Then, solid slabs are installed onto the mounted blanks.

Advantages of installing drywall without a profile

If the gypsum board is mounted on a profile, then this reduces the usable area of the room to the greatest extent than gluing sheets of material. The use of this method is suitable for leveling wall surfaces with any level of curvature. The pre-assembled frame should be placed in a single plane. There are the following good reasons for installing plasterboard sheets without a profile:

Possibility of combining fastening methods.
Reducing the cost of installing drywall material.
Increasing living space.
Convenience and ease of fastening sheets.

The use of gypsum board sheets instead of plaster is considered more profitable, since the first option is less expensive. For example, to plaster 1 m2 of wall, you will need to spend 400 rubles, and a sheet of non-moisture resistant gypsum board with an area of 3 m2 costs 300 rubles. To install gypsum boards on a wall correctly, you do not need to have any special skills or experience.

To install gypsum boards, just use tile adhesive, preparing the composition according to the instructions. You can glue wallpaper on top of the sheets with any special glue. The top layer of the drywall sheet consists of kraft paper, which has excellent adhesion to all types of putties. GCR can be cut, bent, and leveled using puttying. These material advantages are often used in the manufacture of arches.

Disadvantages of frameless fastening of gypsum boards

The strength of plasterboard is low, so a gypsum plasterboard partition will not support even a shelf attached to it. The strength of a plasterboard wall can be increased by installing a double partition, but any frameless method of attaching plasterboard does not involve installing sheets of material in 2 layers. For this purpose, a frame of guide and load-bearing profiles is always first installed.

Before choosing a method for installing gypsum boards without a profile, it is necessary to evaluate the curvature of the walls. If the level of this indicator is not too significant, then attaching the profile to the wall will not be necessary. It will be enough to use special glue or self-tapping screws to level the surface with drywall without the formation of enlarged cavities under the sheets.

It is good to strengthen gypsum boards in a frameless manner to walls with electrical wiring, but without communications such as pipes of heating, ventilation or plumbing systems. To hide them, you will need a ready-made profile frame. A significant disadvantage of frameless sheet installation technology is the need to prepare the surface before covering the wall with plasterboard. In rooms with freezing walls, leveling with this type of material is not carried out, since the formation of condensation on gypsum boards is unacceptable.

Preparatory work before installation of gypsum boards

Before attaching plasterboard to the walls, it is necessary to remove everything that lags behind it from the surface. If there are large cracks, they are repaired. The wall should be cleaned with a spatula, which can be used to remove all excess. Next, you need to evaluate the level of surface curvature. If you find large enough protrusions, you need to use tools such as a chisel and a hammer, which will allow you to remove the irregularities. A hammer drill is also suitable for this purpose.

Before leveling the walls in old houses, the question often arises is whether it is necessary to remove the old layer of plaster if the material has not yet fallen off. A master can assess whether the plaster has come off the wall or not. Sometimes this is done before strengthening the gypsum board yourself. To identify layers that have moved away from the base, it is necessary to tap the wall. If there are places that differ in sound, we can conclude that outdated material has peeled off.

During the preparation of the wall, deep potholes may appear, which are repaired separately. Putties are distinguished by restrictions on the creation of a minimum and maximum layer. If the material is applied in a sufficiently large layer, it may fall off. All holes and holes in the wall are sealed.

Strengthening drywall with glue

Less complicated is the method of attaching drywall to an adhesive composition. Since the sheets are initially flat, they are used without preparing the base. To attach the material, you must first dilute a special glue suitable for brick or concrete bases. The adhesive composition must be applied in small portions to a relatively level surface. It is imperative to take into account the convexity or concavity of the wall in this place. Having taken a plasterboard sheet, it should be leaned against the wall, and then leveled in a plane, drowning it if necessary by pressing the material with your hand. Further work is performed in the following order:

Check the plane of the surface with a level and level the wall.
Coat the evenly aligned sheet with putty.
Apply the adhesive composition to the next sheet of material.
Assemble the wall completely, securing each sheet with adhesive.
For greater reliability, screw the sheets using self-tapping screws or dowel screws to the base.

The method of leveling wall surfaces with plasterboard sheets without a profile cannot always be used without error. All stages are carried out with minimal emphasis on the gypsum board, which prevents the appearance of differences and gaps. Drywall allows you to quickly carry out work on leveling the walls in a room with your own hands.

Fixing drywall with foam

Another option for attaching plasterboard sheets in a frameless manner to the wall is the use of polyurethane foam. This material has its own distinctive features that are not typical for liquid nails or adhesives. The use of foam allows you to qualitatively fill any recesses in the walls, so there is no need to spend money on other materials in the process of preparing the surface for gluing gypsum boards. It will be sufficient to remove protrusions whose height is more than 5 mm.

Since the foam can expand during the setting process, it is necessary to attach plasterboard sheets 30-60 minutes after gluing the gypsum board. Additionally, while the foam is setting, you can fasten the material using dowel screws. Step-by-step installation of gypsum boards is carried out as follows:

A sheet of drywall placed against the wall should be supported by inclined boards.
Markings are made on the plasterboard, followed by drilling through the drywall and walls.
The holes are made for dowel screws, taking into account the equal distance between the fastening elements.
Polyurethane foam should be applied on the back side of the plasterboard sheet in a dotted manner every 20 cm or in strips around the entire perimeter, as well as inside the sheet material.
The gypsum board is pressed to the surface and secured with dowel screws.

When performing frameless strengthening of gypsum boards, you should not sink the caps of the fasteners when fixing the sheets below the level where the wall surface ends. After the mounting foam has set, the dowel screws will need to be removed or screwed in to the level of the base, hiding all holes with putty.

The use of dowel screws will prevent the drywall from bending in the direction from the wall, and the expansion of the foam will prevent the plasterboard from bending in the opposite direction. When installing drywall without profiles, you should always use a building level or a plumb line. This will ensure control over the correct alignment of the wall using gypsum boards to ensure a high-quality finish.