Proper plastering of drywall. Puttying drywall under the wallpaper: we do the work with our own hands. Preparation of plasterboard surface for puttying

After finishing the ceiling and walls standard sheets the question of how to putty drywall arises for every developer or owner of the premises who has ventured into a newfangled repair. The need to putty drywall becomes apparent when looking at smooth walls, overshadowed by unaesthetic joints and fasteners between them. Puttying drywall with your own hands is a very real and simple matter, especially if you know the best way to putty drywall.

The need for work and improvised materials

Putty for drywall - a mandatory component if you plan further Finishing work. The need for puttying on GKL is even indicated construction firms, producing finishing tiles and decorative coatings, however, some insist on puttying plasterboard walls in places of fastenings and joints.

The need for leveling and puttying becomes especially obvious when not only joints and fasteners are found, but also deformations, chips and cracks that formed during transportation. The basic axioms of working with drywall are:

• plasterboard putty must be carried out in full volume, provided that the wall decoration consists of them;
• puttying plasterboard walls with at least one layer of leveling coating is necessary for do-it-yourself wallpaper, and for paper wallpaper, plasterboard walls must be thoroughly processed;
• under decorative tiles or plaster, it is necessary to apply putty at the joints of the seams and drywall corners, masking fasteners and puttying internal corners;
• if the final decor consists of natural and expensive materials, the plasterboard joints are puttyed with a mesh.

Drywall puttying technology is available even to an amateur, and finishing putty drywall is necessary in any case if further decorative trim.

Puttying a plasterboard wall in some cases should be carried out using a primer. Its use as a separate leveling agent, and not for preparing drywall for puttying, is recommended by some experts.

The use of a primer before plastering the drywall achieves two additional prerogatives, one of which is to reduce the likelihood of blisters on drywall coatings, and the second is to maximize the leveling of the joint while reducing the moisture absorption capacity of the gypsum.

From the main tools for the process, you will need spatulas, and from materials - a primer and putty.

How to choose the right composition

Before puttying drywall, it is necessary to decide on the type of room, because it depends on how to putty drywall, and the further durability of the work being done. It is necessary to calculate the footage of the room, make a rough idea of ​​the quantity that will be required, and determine the estimated budget for the upcoming stage of the repair.

It depends on the packaging capacity and the nature of the purchased material how expensive or cheap the upcoming leveling with putty will be. With the relative freedom of spending funds, you can purchase different types under the base and finishing layer, buy very high quality compositions with additional functionality.

Do not prepare putty mixtures from a dry composition, but open a bucket and immediately begin work.

The starting mixture can be separate to create a solid layer or be intended for filling and processing the corner, joint, fasteners and sheet deformations formed during transportation and work. To determine the budget, it matters whether the mixture will be purchased dry or ready-made, and whether specialized additives have been added to it in order to improve and complement the properties in the applied putty.

The dry composition can be stored for an arbitrarily long time and at any temperature, and the finished composition must be used immediately.

How to decide on the choice of composition

Finishing can be carried out using a special composition, but in recent times more and more preference is given to universal mixtures when putty is going to be applied. These compounds can be used for both the base and finish coat, and thus there is no need to think too much about the putty layer.

How to putty plasterboard and what composition to apply, they decide, mainly, according to the type of room being equipped:

• kitchen and bathroom, and sometimes a toilet (rooms with high humidity) it is preferable to putty with a polymer or concrete composition;
• living room, bedroom, nursery (dry rooms) will perfectly accept gypsum putty;
• buildings where dry and high temperatures are observed, it is better to putty with polymer or gypsum, because concrete can shrink.

The easiest way out when choosing how and how to properly putty drywall, gypsum and concrete mixtures, which have disadvantages and advantages in the form of a relatively low cost.

The most optimal way out is to buy an acrylic universal dry putty in a large package: it will come out relatively inexpensively, and you can cook as much as necessary, and store the dry residue until the next time. And if the composition is universal, then both finishing and puttying of the seams will be carried out, and it can be used for any room.

Puttying corners, joints and fasteners

The best option in choosing: how to putty the joints of drywall, is considered to be the application special formulations and some necessary fixtures. Putty for drywall joints is used either special or universal, but the best way out should not be looked for in what kind of composition the problem area is putty, but in how professionally it was done, and what improvised means were used. The seam, joint and fasteners are the main goal of puttying, and for heavy finishes, some builders are limited to them only. For such work you will need:

• sickle ribbon;
• perforated plaster corner;
• two spatulas: metal and rubber, of different sizes;
• ready-made composition for working with seams;
• isolation from drafts;
• temperature not lower than +10 in the room;
• work surfaces cleaned of dust and other contaminants;
• special clothes so as not to get dirty;
• a container for mixing the solution;
• a bowl for work, in which the finished putty is placed;
• surface leveler;
• grinding aids.

detailed instructions

The step-by-step instruction for performing such work is approximately as follows: a selected primer is applied to the wall and, after it dries, the joints that form between the fixed on metal profile drywall sheets. To determine how drywall, you need to look at how wide the gaps between the sheets, which are formed from the beveled edge, expand.

You should first check the fasteners, make sure that the screw heads are flush with the surface, and if this is not the case, eliminate the existing shortcomings with a drill or a Phillips screwdriver.

The technology of puttying the seams is relatively simple and consists in the fact that the seam is filled with the composition up to half, after which it is closed with adhesive tape or sickle tape, which is pressed into the wet mixture with a spatula. The type of reinforcing tape matters depending on the intended external decorative component. For greater strength, a fiberglass sickle is taken, and for a smaller one, a paper component.

External corners are formed using perforated plaster corners, and how to putty drywall corners applied with outer side angle, is decided depending on the thickness of the metal perforated profile used.

How to putty the inner corners of drywall, it is best to look at the video:

In order for the masking of the fasteners to be done competently and professionally and to fulfill its purpose, the composition is applied crosswise, this is the only way to putty the grooves of the self-tapping screws, which, if they are not properly closed, can corrode and spoil the wall.

Puttying the main surfaces

Once the primer and top coat are dry, the outer corners are reinforced with perforated corners, which are fixed with construction stapler and putty composition. After cutting perforated corner installed at corners. Window and door profiles fixed and closed with putty. After completing the most difficult steps, applying the finish layer is no longer difficult. It is simply applied in an even and uniform layer with two spatulas and leveled by subsequent grinding.

There are special compositions for finishing putty that allow you to do without the encryption process, because they contain fine particles of filler

Puttying plasterboard sheets is a rather laborious and time-consuming process, which is necessary for the layers to dry. The type of decorative coating, its visual component and ensuring the long-term operation of the walls are the things that are worth such costs. The decorative component can be changed over time, but the putty will help not to damage the plasterboard sheets and save the walls.

Drywall is a popular building material for leveling walls, which is practical, easy to use and relatively low cost. Moreover, it can be used to various shapes structures, arches, multi-level dropped ceilings, hide engineering communications.

There are such types of drywall:

• Ordinary drywall - denoted by GKL, consisting of a cardboard sheet and gypsum. It is used for work in rooms where normal humidity. Differs in profitability, small weight and unpretentiousness in work.
• Moisture resistant - GKLV, it contains components that reduce moisture absorption and at the same time the sheet does not deform, retaining its original shape. This property allows the use of GKLV in rooms with high humidity: such as a kitchen or bathroom, as well as balconies and facade walls.
• Fire-resistant - GKLO - suitable for finishing surfaces near stoves and fireplaces, for non-residential premises and the construction of partitions.
• Refractory and moisture resistant - GKLVO. Can be used for tiling.

1. Why putty drywall? Is it really such a need to do this painstaking work? Let's try to find the answer to this question. So, the main reasons are as follows: For surface finishing, we will use not one sheet of drywall, but a large number of sheets. And this means that joints are formed at the place of their connection, which have either a factory chamfer or acquired as a result of installation. And this unpleasant moment already speaks of the need to level the surface with putty.
2. Drywall is mounted on a special frame using self-tapping screws, the caps of which must be drowned in the gypsum board and, accordingly, mask these areas with putty. In this way we will achieve flat surface and do not allow the appearance of rust on the surface.
3. Any drywall - regardless of its price - has to a greater or lesser extent all sorts of bumps and defects. Even if it seems to you that the surface is perfectly flat, believe me, after finishing: whether it's painting or wallpapering, all flaws will be visible. Therefore, in order to avoid disappointment, it is recommended to putty the GKL surface.
4. If the surface is being prepared for further painting, then it is necessary to process it completely with putty. Drywall tends to absorb moisture, which leads to its swelling. And when using water-based paint that contain water, the GCR will simply become unusable. Therefore, it is required to do protective layer from putty between drywall and coloring composition.

Important! First, let's find out - is it necessary to putty drywall before wallpapering, is it possible to do without this operation? The fact is that in the presence of the slightest flaws and irregularities on a sheet of drywall, even vinyl wallpaper is not able to hide these defects, which will be visible to the naked eye. Therefore, if you want to get an excellent result and perfectly smooth walls, then take the time to putty the walls.

What putty to choose

Today on store shelves building materials can be found wide range of putties.

According to the composition of putty, there are three groups:

• Cement-based - a feature - increased moisture resistance, which allows it to be used for wall treatment in the kitchen, bathroom and bathroom.
• Gypsum-based - the most widely used, due to its properties: excellent adhesion, fast setting, ease of processing. The only negative is that it does not like moisture, which does not allow it to be used in appropriate rooms.
• Polymer - differs in versatility, resistance to moisture, ease of use, strength. The disadvantages include its high cost, but its consumption will be less than that of other putties, and the quality of the coating will be higher.

By appointment, putty material is as follows:

1. 1. Starting or leveling - used for rough surface treatment in order to close seams and cracks. The structure of the composition is coarse-grained. Its application involves further processing with finishing materials.
   2. Finishing or front - used to eliminate and level minor defects and cracks, and obtain a smooth surface. It has a fine-grained structure and is characterized by high adhesion.
   3. Universal - suitable for both roughing and finishing.

Putty is produced both in a ready-to-use form, and in the form of a blank from a dry mixture, which must be prepared for work independently. So, a dry semi-finished product must be diluted with water to achieve the desired consistency, guided by the instructions supplied with the putty. The big disadvantage of this type of material is that you need to prepare the mixture in small portions and immediately use it within 30 minutes, as it sets quickly. Otherwise, the entire solution will become unsuitable for further work.

Of course, it is much more convenient to use a ready-made putty composition, which is available in the form of a paste. It is sold in sealed packages and has a long shelf life, unlike dry mixes. This putty has the right consistency and is easy to use.

For many years, the Knauf brand has been the leader in the building materials market. The products of this manufacturer have proven to be of excellent quality and excellent characteristics. In particular, it produces a huge range of putties and primers.

Vetonit putties are offered by the Weber trademark. This material is produced both in the form of a dry mixture and ready-to-use putty in jars.

Materials for reinforcing seams and corners

More recently, for reinforcing seams and corners and corners, master finishers used exclusively serpyanka mesh. This is a fiberglass mesh on an adhesive basis.

An alternative to this device are special high-strength paper tapes. These are perforated strips of paper in rolls, designed to reinforce seams and corners. The special texture will ensure the release of air and excellent adhesion to the putty and the surface. To reinforce the corners, both plastic corners and paper strips with thin metal reinforcement are used.

Preparation for work

Before you get started, you need to stock up on all the necessary tools. So, for work we need:

• Set of spatulas and trowels with working surface different widths. So, in order to close up the holes and cracks, you need a narrower spatula; when reinforcing the seams, it is more convenient to use a tool with a wider edge. And, finally, for filling the ceiling and walls, a spatula with a very wide working surface will help us.
• Grater and sandpaper with different grains for sanding the surface after puttying.
• A container for diluting putty - special elongated baths or a bucket.
• Serpyanka - adhesive tape for leveling

Important! Before you start plastering drywall, you must carefully prepare its surface for work. First you need to prime the surface in one layer and after it has completely dried, proceed to the next stages of work. Preparation consists in processing various dents, depressions, irregularities with a solution; sealing holes from self-tapping screws, places of joints and seams of plasterboard, processing of internal and external corners.

First, prepare the putty solution according to the instructions on the package, if we use a dry blank. We prepare the mixture in a small amount, since its setting time is short. We do this in a pre-prepared container.

So, the first stage of our work will be sealing holes from self-tapping screws and dents. Using a small spatula, we apply the solution to the place of the holes, not sparing the putty, since after drying it will shrink.

Next, we proceed to the processing of joints and seams of sheets. When installing drywall sheets, in any case, the joints and seams will remain visible. them in without fail needs to be covered with putty. Using a reinforcing tape, whether it is a sickle or a paper strip, you need to ensure that there is no air space under the tape.

1. Using a narrow spatula, fill the gap with mortar as much as possible and, without waiting for it to dry, glue the reinforcing tape. This strip of tape must be slightly bent in the center, according to the markings indicated on it.
2. Using a spatula, remove excess putty, pressing the tape to the surface. And we apply another layer of mortar on top, while trying to make the layer as thin as possible, moving the spatula strictly along the axis of the joint.
3. Then, using a wide spatula, picking up a small amount of putty mixture on it, we pass again along the seam and leave it to dry. This will take about a day.
4. After the solution has dried, it is necessary to check all the seams - whether defects have appeared in the form of cracks and holes. If there are any, then you need to correct with a small amount of putty.

Reinforcement of the corners is necessary to strengthen these sections of drywall so that further finishing goes without problems and defects. So, for reinforcing the outer corners - slopes, ledges, perforated metal corners Shitrok are used.

We cut off the required length of the profile with scissors and apply it to the surface of the plasterboard, on which putty has already been applied. Then, as it were, we sink the corner into the solution, checking that there is no displacement to the side. We remove the excess mixture with a spatula and leave the putty to dry. Then we grind and, if necessary, putty again.

Also, to strengthen both external and internal corners, paper corners with metal reinforcement. With their help, you can get much faster smooth transition corner to the plane thanks to paper. Yes, when making inner corner apply a small amount of mortar with a spatula and distribute it along the corner line, then apply a paper corner and smooth the strip with your fingers. We do similar actions with the second part of the corner. We remove the excess putty and leave the solution to harden.

Aligning the planes

How to putty the rest of the drywall surfaces, let's look below. First, prepare a solution of starting putty, dissolving it to the consistency of thick sour cream and stirring thoroughly until smooth. Then we will prepare a spatula with a wide working edge - 400 mm and a narrow one - 200 mm.

Tip: The final surface finish will be plaster, then one layer of putty may be enough. It all depends on the intended texture: for example, if a bark beetle is used, which involves large irregularities and roughness, then a perfectly flat surface is not needed.

Let's figure out how to properly putty drywall: the technique of applying putty on drywall is quite simple, the main thing for a beginner in this business is to fill your hand. With a large spatula, we collect a sufficient amount of the solution and apply it to the surface, evenly distributing it. The layer thickness should be up to 2 mm. Next, we carry out the working surface of the spatula, leveling the putty. We select the excess solution with a narrow spatula.

Then we process the entire surface with the same movements. And leave to dry. If you are new to this business, then, most likely, before applying the second layer of putty, you will need to clean the surface with sandpaper or a special grout mesh and prime it. And only after these operations start applying the second layer of putty.

For the final finishing of the surface, we use finishing putty. By consistency, it is not as thick as the starting one, and lays down in a thin layer. According to the technique of applying the solution, it is no different from the starting putty.

Drywall is the most popular material for interior decoration. With it, it is easy to align walls and ceilings, install various partitions, make a built-in wardrobe and much more. To get a smooth and even surface, you need to know how to putty drywall. The process of puttying is simple, but it takes time, accuracy and some preparation. The slightest deviation from the technology can completely spoil the final result of the work.

Preparation for putty

Before you putty plasterboard with your own hands, you need to initially prepare it. To do this, first check if there are any protruding caps of self-tapping screws on the GKL. If they are, then they must be screwed to a depth of 2 - 3 mm in the GKL.

It is necessary to pay attention to the joints of the sheets. If the paper of the outer sheet is peeled off from the inner gypsum base, then it must be carefully cut off with a knife, and then sand the cut with sandpaper. If grinding is not carried out, then this can lead to detachment of the applied putty in the future. The edges of the GKL should be inspected. If there is no factory processing, then they need to be cut at an angle of 45 degrees. In this way, a more secure grip is achieved.

Primer

GKL puttying begins with a primer. Before this, the surface should be cleaned and degreased.

The primer is selected depending on the final surface finish. Under the wallpaper, a deep penetration soil is chosen, and under a tile or tile - an adhesive composition. Under no circumstances should you take alkyd primer. It has the ability to deform the paper layer of drywall and form bubbles. An excellent option is an acrylic primer.

Depending on the final finish, choose a primer for wallpaper - deep penetration, and under a tile or tile - an adhesive composition

Drywall is covered with a thin layer using a construction roller, when using which, unlike a brush, the application is uniform. With special care and thoroughness, the primer should be applied in corner connections and at the joints of the sheets. After that, the surface is left for a while so that the primer dries, and then it is applied one more time. As soon as the second layer dries, proceed to the next stage - to putty work.

Instruments

For puttying drywall you will need:

• bucket for water;
• container for diluting the mixture;
• mixer;
• sickle and paper tape;
• medium spatula (12 - 15 cm);
• wide spatula (30 - 35 cm);
• aluminum and plastic corners;
• grinder or fine-grained sandpaper.

Sealing joints

GKL putty begins with sealing joints. Before applying putty, a special self-adhesive fiberglass mesh (serpyanka) is glued to the joints between the sheets. It must be attached in such a way that one half of the width of the tape lies on one sheet, and the second on the other. As a result, it turns out that the middle of the sickle falls on the joint. Pasting the GKL joints with a sickle creates a reinforcing layer.

To seal the joints, put a small amount of putty on the spatula and apply to the surface evenly filling the joint

With a narrow spatula, a certain amount of putty solution is taken and superimposed on a wide one. The mixture is then applied to the surface with this wide spatula. It is necessary to ensure that the joint is evenly filled with mortar without the formation of lumps and irregularities. If there is still not enough experience with these tools, then you can apply the solution to the joint with a medium spatula, and stretch it wide to possible distance. At the same time, reinforcement can be performed using paper tape. It should be borne in mind that the sickle is glued before applying the layer, and the paper tape after the first putty layer.

As soon as the first layer dries, a second layer of putty mortar is applied. Then, after waiting for it to dry, it is necessary to process the finished surface with sandpaper.

Puttying self-tapping screws

On the caps of the self-tapping screws, the putty composition is applied with a spatula in a cross motion: along and across. This ensures complete penetration of the mixture into the holes.

Apply the putty on the screws in a cross motion, thereby you will achieve complete penetration.

Putty corners

In conditions when we putty drywall with our own hands, it will take more time to corner, in contrast to sealing the joints of sheets. After all, here the GCRs are connected perpendicularly. In order to get an even right angle as a result of the work, it is necessary to carry out puttying work according to a certain technology.

Reinforcement of corners with sickle is carried out in the same way as the joint. That is, one half of the width of the tape is on one sheet of drywall, the second is on the other. Putty mortar is first applied to one surface. Only when it dries, putty the second sheet. In this case it will nice corner which does not require modification.

Basic putty

After the putty has completely dried at the joints, corners and places of screwed screws, proceed to the main stage of plasterboard puttying.

For windows and door slopes aluminum corners are installed. They are fastened with either a construction stapler or a mixture. The corner gives rigidity and strength to the corner when mechanical action on him. It is cut to the length of the slopes and installed around the entire perimeter of the window or door.

For arched passage use plastic corner. When attaching it, only a stapler is used, since it is thicker than aluminum.

After all the corners are installed, they are covered with putty to fill all the holes in the sheet. Further, with a wide spatula, putty is applied to both the drywall and the corner. With leveling movements, it is necessary to distribute the applied layer, while capturing both the GKL and the edge of the profile. The first layer of putty on drywall should not be very thick. It should hide all the recesses and irregularities of the treated surface. The second putty layer is applied after the final drying of the first.

Finishing putty

To give the ideal smoothness of the surface, a finishing finish is performed.

First you need to polish. To do this, use a skin with zero graininess. Thus, all roughness and irregularities are eliminated. How to grind putty on drywall with a large surface area manually, you can use a grinder to speed up the process.

The next step is to apply a primer. It is advisable to apply it in two layers. If priming is not done, then the subsequent putty layer will not lie on the first one, bubbles will appear. Then proceed to the final putty.

Before applying putty on drywall joints, apply a special reinforcing tape

For beginners in this matter, it may be difficult to choose how to putty GKL when finishing. Here it is necessary to use only a wide spatula. Moreover, the wider it is, the smoother the surface will eventually turn out. The mixture for the finishing putty layer should have the consistency of sour cream. If the solution is thick, it will be difficult to achieve an even and thin layer. The final putty on drywall is applied with sweeping movements. The thinner the layer, the better. Several thin layers can be applied.

If there are small irregularities, they must be rubbed with fine sandpaper. The final stage is the application of a primer to the putty. It is necessary to apply it only when the putty layer is completely dry.

Puttying drywall consists of several stages. Taking into account the fact that it is necessary to wait for the layers to dry each time, it can last several days. But there is no need to rush. After all, if you fully carry out all the stages of puttying in compliance with the technology, the end result will bring only satisfaction and pride in a job well done.

When puttying plasterboard walls, it is necessary to adhere to a certain technology, otherwise all further repairs may be of poor quality and soon you will need to carry out restoration work.

Many level the walls, when performing repairs, using drywall. This is the fastest and easiest way to make the wall surface perfectly smooth and flawless.

With the help of drywall, it is also easy to make some interesting interior ideas that will give your room an interesting and unique design. So let's get started: "How to putty walls sheathed with sheets of drywall."

Which finish is suitable for plasterboard walls

A variety of finishes can be applied to plasterboard walls. . Wallpaper can be glued different, both vinyl and paper, wallpaper with a non-woven base and liquid wallpaper are also excellent. For interesting design solutions glass fiber is also suitable. Wallpaper is able to hide many errors with poor-quality puttying.

Apply, a new and rather progressive type of wall decoration.

Drywall walls can also be made for painting. Here you have to sweat a little, since the application of putty on drywall requires accuracy and clarity in execution. Otherwise, every bump or bump will stand out after painting.

On drywall walls you can. Here, all work must be carried out with strict adherence to technology. Otherwise, your tile will just fall off soon. To prevent this from happening, we will learn how to properly apply putty on plasterboard walls, as well as get acquainted with the technology and some of the nuances that can ensure your repair durability and of course quality.

How to prepare the walls

First of all, it is necessary to inspect the surface of the plasterboard walls. Make sure that each is well screwed in and the hat does not protrude on the surface. Often this is simply not noticed, and as a result, red spots can appear through the finish. Check the degree of screwing screws with a spatula. They are carried out along all the seams and joints where the screws are located and you will undoubtedly feel if one of them protrudes a little. The protruding self-tapping screw must be screwed deeper. Usually they are sunk 1 mm into drywall.

Strongly deeply screwed self-tapping screws must be twisted, since they, under a certain load on drywall, will not be able to hold it qualitatively. Remember - self-tapping screws must be handed to a depth of no more than one millimeter so that the integrity of the cardboard layer is not violated. Check drywall walls for dents, deep scratches, or other imperfections. These places need to be puttied more carefully until the surface of the wall is leveled.

Important! Each subsequent layer of putty should be applied after the previous one has completely dried.

Necessary tools and materials

To do all the drywall plastering work, you will need, one might say, a minimal tool and good putty. On drywall, you can use putty for the finishing layer, but decide with the manufacturer yourself. In general, you will need:

• Narrow spatula;
• Wide spatula;
• Serpyanka tape for reinforcing seams;
• Primer, preferably deep penetration;
• Paint roller;
• Bucket for mixing putty;
• The putty itself;
• Drill with mixing nozzle;

Almost everyone has most of the necessary tools, so you shouldn’t have any problems here, and the puttying tool you need is quite cheap and is everywhere.

How to properly and quickly mix putty

To make a quality putty mixture, you will need a drill with a mixer. A mixer is a special nozzle with which the entire mass of water and a dry mixture will be kneaded. Pour water into the bucket approximately to the middle and pour out the dry mixture so that its level is slightly higher than the water level. Using a drill with a mixing attachment, we begin to mix everything thoroughly.

If you see that the putty mixture turned out to be too liquid, then you need to pour more putty into the bucket. The mixture should certainly turn out not thick and not liquid. It should stick to the spatula and at the same time be elastic. If you make a thick mixture, then it will be harder to work with it - your hand will get tired.

Wall putty technique

If your room is completely sheathed with drywall sheets, then. Remove all dust from the surface and go around the entire perimeter of the room with a deep penetration primer. It will give a stronger adhesive surface of drywall, because whatever one may say, you will have to work on top of the cardboard material.

As soon as the primer is completely dry, it is necessary to go through the joints with putty and lay reinforced tape sickle. This is necessary so that after wallpapering or painting the walls you do not have cracks at the junction of drywall sheets. We begin to putty the walls precisely at the joints of drywall. Immediately apply a layer of putty, which should be wider than the sickle tape. Once all the joints are puttied, proceed to the reinforcement of the corners.

This is done in the same way as reinforcing the seams. Putty is applied to the corner on both sides, a sickle tape is embedded in it and with the help of a spatula all this is leveled and re-puttyed on top. Wait until the joints in the corners are completely dry. They will need to be rubbed with an abrasive mesh to remove bumps. If necessary, the corners can be puttied again.

If there are external corners, for example corners from slopes, then they must be protected with metal corners. This is done simply: a little putty is applied to the corner, into which it is recessed metal corner and all the putty that has come through is leveled with a spatula. After completing the puttying work, you will get strong, protected, and most importantly, smooth and beautiful corners.

It is best to start puttying the walls from the right side to the left. If you are left-handed, then naturally vice versa. The mixed putty is applied with a small spatula to a wide one and pressing it against the wall at an angle, we rub the putty over the entire surface. Usually, depending on the density of the mixed solution, the thickness of its application will also be determined. It will be enough for you to make a layer of about 2-2.5 millimeters.

Try to rub the putty well on the surface of the drywall in order to increase the application area for one intake of the mixture on a spatula. Also, thorough rubbing will help remove and grind all the small lumps that formed during the mixing of the putty mixture. Try to immediately remove the stripes, and bumps that will arise in the process. This is done by repeating the spatula in places where there are defects. If necessary, add putty to the spatula, and carefully align everything so as not to do this work after the walls have dried.

Move evenly along the perimeter of the entire room, do not run from one area to another, as you will forget where and what errors you made in the process. You should not lay a large layer of putty, as plus wallpaper, plus a primer, plus wallpaper paste, and as a result, a large load is obtained on the cardboard surface of drywall.

Remember that the walls for painting must be made just perfectly even, otherwise the errors will clearly stand out on the painted walls. Try to level the putty immediately during the puttying process and avoid the formation of stripes and dents.

If somewhere you missed something, then after the puttying work is completed and the walls are completely dry, you need to inspect them and, if necessary, go through the cracked pancakes with liquid putty. Protrusions, on the contrary, wipe with an abrasive mesh.

The beauty of the walls is an important element of your interior, because beautiful walls should create coziness in your room. Remember that from preparatory work, from their implementation, depends on the quality of the work done on the decoration of the walls. And believe me, it doesn't matter if it's wallpaper or painting. After all, any work must be treated responsibly if you want to make your home beautiful, and repairs in it are durable. Good luck with plasterboard walls.

With the help of drywall, you can not only hide the unevenness of the walls or ceiling, but also carry out a huge amount design ideas, for example, to make various cascades and arches, thereby diversifying the design of the room.

Many do not experienced builders believe that drywall surfaces do not need puttying. However, this is a huge misconception. Drywall, although it seems quite even and smooth to the naked eye, actually has many microcracks and irregularities. Regular putty will help fix them.

Peculiarities

Putty will help get rid of various defects on drywall. It will not only smooth out irregularities, but also ensure the safety of drywall sheets. For example, when removing wallpaper from previously plastered drywall wall the drywall itself will remain intact and suitable for applying another solution or material.

Also, puttying walls or ceilings before painting significantly reduces paint costs.

With further painting of plasterboard walls or ceilings, complete (in two stages: start and finish) surface puttying is required, as the paint will emphasize any irregularities or surface defects, as in daylight, as well as artificial. If you plan to finish the wall thick wallpaper or tiles, you can get by with putty in one layer (using the starting putty). However, the masters still advise to putty the walls in at least two stages, as this will be a more reliable and tidy option.

Under thick wallpaper, it is better to choose a putty with a coarse-grained structure. After drying, no wall defects will be visible under them, so you can only get by with a starting putty. But under thin paper wallpapers, it is necessary to use both starting and finishing putty, since if you get by with one layer, after the wallpaper dries, all surface irregularities and defects will become visible.

Types of putties

In modern building materials stores, a huge assortment of various putty mixtures is presented: both designed for a certain type of wall, and universal. To make a choice, you need to know how this or that mixture differs from others.

Types of putties are distinguished by the following characteristics:

• ready for use;
• by appointment;
• by composition;
• by area of ​​application.

Ready for use

• Dry plasters- the dry composition must be diluted with water to obtain a homogeneous solution. Dry putty has many advantages: low cost compared to ready-made solutions, long term storage, the ability to carry out surface finishing in stages.
• Ready-to-use putties or liquid- already prepared solution, which can be immediately applied to the surface. Ready-to-use putty is convenient because you do not need to worry about the correct consistency of the solution. Skipping the step of mixing the solution not only simplifies the work, but also saves time. However, it is not as durable as a dry putty mix and requires special storage conditions.

By appointment

The plasterboard surface needs preliminary leveling, and the main purpose of putty is to level and eliminate microcracks and surface joints. For different types works exist various varieties putties:

• Starting (leveling) putty- designed to eliminate deep defects, has a coarse-grained structure, is initial stage surface putty. When working with dense thick wallpaper or tiles, the starting putty can be used as the only layer.

• Finishing putty- used to mask the defects remaining after the starting putty, has a soft homogeneous structure, gives the surface an almost finished look. When working with paint or thin paper wallpaper finishing putty is a mandatory layer. It will smooth out the unevenness of the starting putty, and the coating will look much neater.

• Universal putty- combines everything best properties the first two, can be used at any stage of surface finishing, but differs enough high price. However, experienced builders do not recommend using only universal putty. It is convenient to use as a final layer.
• Decorative textured putty- used as completed decorative coating. With the help of mineral crumbs as part of textured putty, you can create any volumetric textures and diversify the design of the room. Designer putty acts as final finishing surface and does not require additional painting.

Composition

• Gypsum- have many positive properties such as fast surface shrinkage, environmental friendliness, fast drying and easy leveling. The main disadvantage of gypsum putty is poor resistance to moisture, as gypsum absorbs a lot of moisture. Therefore, gypsum putty can not be used categorically when finishing a bathroom or kitchen.

• Cement– durable and strong, well tolerated high temperatures, resistant to moisture, therefore, perfectly suited to the decoration of bathrooms and kitchens. The main disadvantage is the long drying and heterogeneity of application. Also, cement putty can shrink slightly, so it is better not to use it in living rooms.

• Polymer- universal type of putty, suitable for both residential and industrial premises. They have high environmental friendliness and water resistance, smooth uniform coating, fast drying, reliability, fast shrinkage. Polymer putty is sold immediately ready-made, so you don’t have to worry about mixing the solution with the right consistency. The only negative is the high cost.

Polymer putty can be latex and acrylic. For work in indoor areas it is worth giving preference to latex. Even when applied in a thin layer, unlike acrylic putty, it will retain all its beneficial features: high strength and good adhesion to any materials. In addition, you can purchase colored latex putty, which can save you money on paint in the future. But if you freeze the latex putty during storage, it will become unusable. Therefore, when buying, you should be attentive to the storage conditions and the shelf life of the solution.

Acrylic putty is perfect for exterior finish as it is resistant to temperature extremes and moisture.

By area of ​​application

• For outdoor work- must have good moisture resistance, thermal insulation, resistance to temperature extremes and mechanical stress.
• For internal works - must meet the requirements of the room in which the finishing is planned, have good adhesion with materials for further finishing and do not contain substances harmful to human health.

When choosing a putty, it is worth considering the conditions and place of work. In residential areas (especially in children's rooms and bedrooms), it is necessary Special attention pay attention to the composition of the putty. It must not contain substances that may be hazardous to health. In rooms with high humidity (kitchens and bathrooms), you should pay attention to putty mixtures that can withstand high temperatures and high humidity.

You also need to pay attention to the hardening time of the putty. This criterion will help save time finishing the room. However, for inexperienced builders, it's best not to choose putty that dries too quickly. Due to inexperience, the leveling process will take longer than that of an experienced craftsman, and the putty should not dry out prematurely.

Instruments

To putty drywall you will need the following tools:

• Spatula 15-25 cm wide (for basic work).
• Spatula 30-40 cm wide (for leveling).
• Spatula with 3 × 3 mm teeth (for reinforcing seams).
• Putty.
• Primer (for a good setting of drywall with finishing material).
• Soft roller (for applying soil).

• Various containers or baths (for diluting putty, primer and washing tools).
• Reinforcing tape - serpyanka (superimposed on the junction line between drywall sheets).
• Hammer drill or drill special nozzle(for mixing putty).
• Grater with clamps.
• Grid for a grater with clips.
• Screws.

A stepladder may be needed to putty the ceiling or high walls.

Surface preparation

Plasterboard sheets have a fairly smooth surface, but this does not negate the fact that the surface must be prepared before finishing.

Before applying the putty, it is also necessary to apply a primer to the surface of the drywall. It provides better bonding of materials (adhesion), since, being absorbed into the base, it creates a protective film that prevents the moisture of the applied materials from penetrating the surface of the drywall. The primer will ensure uniform drying of the putty without the formation of microcracks.

For priming, you can purchase a universal primer solution that is suitable for any surface, including brick and concrete. But a more reasonable solution would be to use a primer specifically designed for priming drywall surfaces.

It is important to know that in no case should soil mixtures or solutions containing alkyds be used to finish plasterboard coatings, as the paper layer will come off and the entire structure will become unusable.

The primer must be applied to a clean, dry surface. Fine dust can be removed with a construction vacuum cleaner, a soft brush or a slightly damp cloth (it should not be too wet).

To apply the primer, depending on the scope of work, you can use a roller, brush or spray. The brush is usually used for hard-to-reach places and for finishing seams. Basically, a roller is used for priming. The roller must be on long handle with a microfiber fur coat, as it absorbs moisture well and will not allow the solution to spread. Also suitable roller made of soft material. The primer is applied with a roller from top to bottom. It is important to prevent smudges of the primer, because after the primer layer dries, the putty in these places will lie down and dry unevenly.

As soon as the soil begins to leak, it must be immediately spread over the surface.

When choosing a primer, you should pay great attention to the content of antibacterial substances. They will prevent the appearance of fungi and mold. This is especially important to consider when choosing a primer for bathrooms, kitchens and rooms where humidity can be increased.

Usually the primer is applied in one layer, but in bathrooms and kitchens when priming drywall it is better to apply in two. One coat usually dries in 4-6 hours.

How to prepare a solution?

To begin with, it is important to know that the putty hardens quite quickly, so the volume of the mixed solution should be calculated for about the next 20 to 30 minutes of work.

In no case should you pour / pour the remains of the solution / mixture that were used back into the jar! This will lead to the process of setting the solution, and the entire putty will become unusable. It is better to regularly mix the “fresh” mortar than to constantly throw away the putty because it has begun to set.

The solution should be mixed in the same container from which the work will then be done.

Step-by-step plan for preparing the solution:

1. In an absolutely clean container (bath), you need to collect the amount of water required in the instructions (do not forget that you need to calculate the amount of water and the mixture only for the next 20-30 minutes of work). Water should be clean and at room temperature.
2. The dry mixture must be evenly poured onto the surface of the water. Ideally, the powder should immediately be saturated with water and settle to the bottom of the bath.
3. For a good putty consistency, the accumulated water mixture should approximately equal the water level.
4. Using a spatula, gently mix the solution. Much attention should be paid to the corners at the bottom of the container (bath) - the mixture may remain there, and the putty will be of poor quality.

The result should be a solution of a homogeneous consistency without lumps. Lumps need to be rubbed against the walls of the container and mixed with the rest of the mixture.

The finished putty solution should be thick and resemble thick sour cream. To make sure that the solution is the right consistency, just scoop it up with a spatula and turn it over. A solution of the correct consistency should be kept on the blade, slowly “sliding”, but not draining from it.

Application technology

After everything you need is prepared (tools, surface and mortar), you can start applying putty. For ease of use, you need step-by-step instructions.

The first step is to start reinforcing the seam. This is a necessary procedure, as the reinforcing tape will help strengthen the seam and prevent drywall sheets from dispersing, as well as preventing cracks.

Reinforcing tapes are different in the quality of the material and the presence (or absence) of the adhesive base. AT this case it is most convenient to use a sickle with an adhesive side designed specifically for drywall. But do not forget that the main fixing solution is putty.

It is important to know that PVA glue cannot be used to glue reinforcing tape. This adhesive has water base and if it gets on the caps of the screws, over time it will cause the appearance of rust, which will appear on the final finish with yellow spots.

There will definitely be a gap between the sheets of drywall. Regardless of the width, it must be filled tightly with a putty solution using a narrow spatula. Putty must be applied in large quantities to tightly fill the seam.

The bath should be substituted from below so that the excess putty does not fall on the floor, but into the container.

When the seams are tightly sealed, you need to immediately remove the extra "fluffs" of putty from the surface, since when it dries, it can greatly complicate the next stages of puttying. This can be done with the same spatula. With excess putty, you can immediately close up the recesses from the screws that are nearby. This is done crosswise. Surplus also needs to be removed. Next, you need to wait until the putty seizes and hardens. During this time, you can do the same work with all other seams.

When the putty on the seam hardens and gains the desired strength, you can start reinforcing. We prepare the amount of putty solution we need and cut off the required length of the tape. It is recommended to use a spatula with 3x3 mm teeth in order to spread the putty evenly.

First, using a conventional spatula, we apply a layer of putty along the entire length of the seam, then level it with a spatula with teeth. A notched trowel will create uniform strips of putty with the right amount tape setting solution.

The sickle must be bent along the creasing (the line for bending in the center of the tape) and attached with the protruding side to the surface with putty. It is important that the protruding side of the tape lies exactly on the joint of the sheets. Then press down a little with your fingers: first in the center, then along the edges.

Next, on a wide spatula, you need to apply a little more putty (in this case, the putty is a “lubrication” so that the spatula easily slides along the tape) and walk along the length of the sickle. The tape should “drown” in the putty, that is, there should be no air space under the tape. So it will fulfill its function one hundred percent.

To prevent the tape from deforming or shifting, you need to hold it higher with another spatula.

After all these steps, another layer of putty must be applied to the tape. In order for the solution to fill the entire space, it must be applied perpendicular to the seam. Then you need to level the putty layer. To do this, it is better to use a spatula wider. After that, making sure that the serpyanka does not wrinkle anywhere and does not stick out, it is necessary to carry out the final alignment. For final leveling, a little mortar should be applied to the spatula and, be sure to pick up excess mortar from the surface, walk along the seam “on the rip”. In this state, the seam is left to dry completely. After the putty hardens, you get a solid monolithic structure that can withstand loads.

For fillet welds there are special "corner" reinforcing tapes that simplify the process of reinforcing fillet welds.

The seam should be checked the next day. Putty may shrink a little. To eliminate possible irregularities, you need to pick up a little putty on the spatula again and go through the tool “on a tear” along the entire seam line.

After all the seams are reinforced, you can proceed to the final stage - puttying the entire surface. Many neglect this point, however experienced craftsmen nevertheless, it is advised to putty the surface completely, so that after painting the surface is free of minor defects.

Solid puttying is carried out in two stages, to provide best quality surfaces.

To begin with, the solution is mixed into a bath or other convenient container. For application and leveling, you will need two spatulas: narrow (15 - 25 cm) and wide (30 - 40 cm). With a narrow spatula, you should collect the solution from the container, apply it to the surface and remove excess putty from a wide spatula, and with a wide spatula, distribute and level the putty over the entire surface.

So, the first step is to apply a sufficiently large amount of mortar to a narrow spatula, and then to the surface. Spread it quickly and evenly over the surface with a wide spatula. It is necessary to smooth the putty by applying force, “to the scrap”. The result should be a thin even layer. While smoothing the putty, it is necessary to immediately remove its excess with a narrow spatula on a wide spatula. You should not try to immediately cover a large surface area - a thin layer of the solution sets quickly, but you still need to have time to level and smooth it.