Tsugunov Anton Valerievich

Reading time: 4 minutes

So popular finishing material, like GKL, in most cases it is attached to a special frame. It is usually mounted from metal profiles. Alternative option- crate of wooden beams, which is very easy to assemble with your own hands. But do not be deceived by the ease of manufacture: wood is a capricious material, its use is far from always possible. Consider all the features of such a design and find out when and how you can do it. wooden crate under drywall on your own.

Features and disadvantages of wood lathing

The construction of a wooden frame under the gypsum board attracts with its low cost and ease of operation. Especially if during the repair a small number of boards remain that can be used as slats load-bearing structure. In this case, you do not have to spend money on the purchase of a metal profile, as well as the necessary fasteners, for example.

But you should also remember about the properties of wood that limit its use in construction:

• Wooden structures are subject to change in geometric dimensions with excessive or insufficient moisture. Drywall attached to such a crate will move with it, resulting in cracks that appear at the joints of the sheets. it ongoing process, since the tree gives off moisture when the room is dry or absorbs when it is excessively humid.
• Alignment of walls with gypsum boards is often combined with insulation. Under these conditions, ventilation of the wooden parts of the crate is minimal, which leads to their rapid decay.
• Bars are not well suited for leveling walls. It is unacceptable to use wedges for lining: over time, the tree can bend under the influence of moisture and temperature, and weak areas form in the places of such linings.

• It is not recommended to use a wooden frame when finishing with a plasterboard ceiling. This design does not have a sufficient margin of safety; it is better to use a metal profile for this purpose.
• It is unacceptable to use a wooden frame in rooms with increased level humidity or temperature. Strictly speaking, a crate made of this material is only suitable for rooms with constant microclimate indicators.
• If it is planned to place under the surface of the GCR electric wires, then metal guides must be used: wooden elements do not have a sufficient level of fire safety.

When can I make a frame for gypsum boards out of wood?

It is recommended to use a wooden structure for plasterboard sheets:

• In houses made of logs or timber. In this case, the crate is ideally combined with the material of the walls due to the same physical properties. It turns out that any change in humidity is compensated. In such conditions, drywall remains motionless and is not damaged.
• AT ordinary apartments with perfectly smooth walls. In this case, the timber frame will be a reliable basis for fixing the plasterboard.

Advantages

Advantages of a wooden crate:

• Simple installation, which can be done by hand.
• Available and cheap materials, more environmentally friendly than a metal profile.
• Subject to all necessary conditions a properly installed crate will last a long time and will be a reliable basis for drywall sheets.

Tools and materials

First of all, you will need a wooden beam itself with a cross section of at least 40 × 40 mm. If it is planned to carry out insulation and soundproofing, then the beam must be chosen thicker, for example 40 × 80 mm. To prevent decay, it is impregnated with antiseptic and water-repellent solutions. It would be useful to treat it with a composition that improves the fire safety of the material.

Before installation, all wooden elements must be kept indoors for several days in order to adapt to its microclimate and take on their final geometric shape.

You will also need:

• Measuring tool: level, plumb line, tape measure.
• Pencil, coated cord.
• and dowels for attaching the timber to the wall.
• A screwdriver and self-tapping screws, as well as corners for connecting frame elements to each other.
• Hacksaw, hammer and construction knife.

As you can see, almost the entire tool can be found in the arsenal of even a novice master. To install a wooden frame and fasten drywall, you do not have to purchase specialized expensive fixtures.

Lathing installation

Preparatory work consists in removing the old coating if there is doubt about its strength. Things in the room can be covered plastic wrap or other material.

The order of the wooden frame device:

• First you need to do the markup. The size of the GCR determines the optimal step between uprights- 600 mm. Thus, each sheet will be attached to three bars: one in the center, and two at the edges. The joints should be located on the surface of the rack, as shown in the photo.

• A horizontal beam is attached to the ceiling. Using a plumb line, the location of the rail on the floor is determined. They must be located strictly in the same plane.

In the case of a perfectly even overlap, horizontal bars can be attached directly to the wall. Here, the same thickness of all elements of the crate is of paramount importance: any error in size will result in frame irregularities.

• Vertical racks are attached to the beams on the ceiling and floor strictly according to the level. To the wall, they are mounted on dowel-nails, for which holes are pre-drilled in the rails and in the wall for fasteners.

In houses with wooden walls you can mount the racks to the base with wood screws. But you still need to drill holes: this eliminates the likelihood that the beam will crack.

• According to the markup, horizontal jumpers are attached. They provide structural rigidity and are located at the junction of drywall sheets.

The optimal step for attaching elements to the wall is 25–40 cm.

• You can strengthen the frame with the help of corners placed at the junction of vertical and horizontal racks.

Drywall fixing

GKL installation is carried out as standard:

• Pre-cut sheets are attached to the frame. Step between screws - 25 cm.

Please note: you need to take wood screws with less frequent and larger threads.

Drywall is a multifunctional building material of our time, with which you can sheathe any room in home. For creating frame base under the GKL, you can use wooden or metal profiles.

Most often in repair work ah use metal carcass, which provides greater structural strength. But making it is much more difficult than from wooden slats. Therefore, along with metal, a wooden frame for drywall is often used. Wood is environmentally friendly pure material and this is another reason why many prefer it as the basis for home renovations. Moreover, such a frame is much easier to make at home.

In order for the wooden structure in the house to serve for a long time, the tree must be properly prepared. This material is highly susceptible to biological corrosion, climatic influences and burns well. Therefore, before making a wooden frame or partition, the tree should be prepared according to the rules.
Note! It is best to make a partition or frame from conifers.
Before starting, they usually chemical treatment. For this wooden slats treated over the entire surface with antiseptic substances. This will help you prevent:

• damage to wood by mold or fungal microorganisms. And under their influence, the tree deteriorates very quickly;
• the risk of damage to the tree by arboreal insects that use the wood as food;
• biological decay;
• damage to the bars by rodents that can be found in a house, especially a country one.

Today, the market is replete with a wide variety of antiseptics. But the best is sodium fluoride. It penetrates very deep into the wood and is poorly washed out of it.

It should be noted that sodium fluoride does not decompose and cannot lead to metal corrosion. It is also non-toxic to humans and odorless, which is a great advantage for treating wooden beams and battens with this substance at home.
In addition to sodium fluoride, sodium silicofluoride with the addition of soda ash is also used for wood treatment.
It is strictly forbidden to use in residential premises the following types oil antiseptics:

• coal;
• creosote;
• anthracene oils;
• shale.

When processing wood with such substances, a person can harm his health!

Before carrying out the installation of wooden planks, the slats must be in the room where they will be fixed for several days. Thanks to this, they will undergo sufficient acclimatization.
Remember that the slats must be made of quality lumber, which must necessarily meet the requirements of fire safety and humidity.

The seller, upon request, is obliged to provide you with a certificate or certificate stating that the material has been treated with a flame retardant and has passed a special examination by authorized bodies.

Creating a drawing

Before starting mounting wooden elements construction, draw a drawing.
It is created like this:

• measure the length of the room;
• measure the height of the room;
• multiply the resulting numbers and get the perimeter of the room;
• then we measure the perimeter of windows, doorways in the same way and put them on the drawing.

Drawing

By creating a diagram, you can evaluate the range of upcoming work and decide on the amount of materials. With him you will do correct frame, and you do not have to bend the elements and tamp them so that they fit perfectly into the structure.

Tools for the job

You can make a wooden frame for drywall using the following tools:

• screwdriver;
• a hammer;
• construction knife;
• concrete drill with impact drill;

Tools

• wood saw;
• plumb line, tape measure and pencil;
• building level;
• screwdriver, crowbar;
• brackets, dowels and screws.

With this tool at hand, wooden partition or frame will be very easy even for a beginner.

Installation work

Installation of a wooden structure for drywall involves the following processes:

• tracing (marking) of the wall. We put all the elements of the drawing on the wall;
• we measure the distance of the plane of the future partition and retreat from it to the width of the GKL. You should start from the ceiling. We hammer in a nail and hang a plumb line on it. We mark a point on the floor;
• by connecting these two points, you will get the first line;
• then repeat the procedure;

Note! You can do it a little easier. Attach the GKL sheet to the wall (short side) and simply draw a perpendicular from a given point.

• then we begin to make the installation of the frame. We fasten the bars along the lines. Bend wooden beams should not, otherwise they can simply be broken. Can be fastened with both self-tapping screws and spikes (in wooden house). In a stone house we use screws, dowels, brackets or direct hangers;
• along the walls and ceiling we fasten solid bars. Remember that it is impossible to bend a solid beam, so changing the design will no longer work. In this regard, make all fastenings with a level check;
• along the floor, the divergence of the bars on both sides of the doorway is allowed;
• when the opening is located near the wall, we use a solid beam running on one side of this opening;
• Next, we carry out the installation of vertical rails. We install rails strictly according to the level. You can bend them slightly if the rail is slightly uneven. But don't overdo it or it will break.

finished frame

Note! To do wooden structure, you can use bars and slats different section. The choice of section should be made depending on the method of sheathing and the height of the partition. You also need to take into account the level of load that the frame will experience in the future, so as not to bend its elements.
When the frame is ready, you can install the doorway:

• on the sides of the opening it is necessary to install two risers. The width of the doorway should be 4 cm more than the width of the door frame;
• we strengthen the risers with additional bars;
• at the level of the door frame, add 2.5 cm and install a horizontal lintel. To fix the jumper, it is not necessary to bend it;
• jumper with ceiling rail connect with two vertical bars. They will make the structure more rigid. They will also be needed for fixing drywall sheets in the future;
• Next, attach the racks. Their step, so as not to bend the frame, is 60 cm;
• in the case when the ceilings are slightly higher than the length of the drywall sheet, we make a horizontal jumper in order to better join the sheets at the stage of their installation.

Advice. To determine the location of the jumper above the opening, you need to attach drywall sheet and in place of its edge, nail the jumper in such a way that it goes to its middle.
To increase the rigidity of the structure and the level of load it can withstand at the junction of the bars, use metal corners and pads that are designed to collect truss systems. Thus, you prevent the mechanical destruction of the frame and make it more resistant to mechanical influences from the side.
The finished structure and each of its details should be checked during installation. building level. Racks must go strictly vertically, and all jumpers - horizontally. In this case, the racks should be positioned in such a way that the maximum fit on the wall possible number whole sheets of drywall. As a result, you will save not only time, but also reduce material consumption.
A wooden crate for drywall is quite easy to do with your own hands, subject to a number of rules and technologies. The main thing is to strictly follow the instructions and you will get even the most complex elements of it.

Despite the fact that such construction material, like drywall, they began to be used everywhere quite recently, it was patented back in the 19th century in America. Its first sheets were most similar to the Napoleon cake - 10 sheets of paper glued with a thin layer of plaster. It was invented by the owner of a paper mill.

Such "paper" has gained wide popularity in the present day.

A little about drywall

Modern drywall - complex composite material, consisting of cardboard, gypsum and various additives that give it additional qualities, such as:

• Increased sound insulation.
• Fire safety.

Drywall was once called "dry plaster", but the name did not stick.

It is used for "dry" finishing of the room. That is, when using drywall, there is several times less dirt than with traditional repair work.

Drywall is available in 3 versions:

• Standard, made without additional additives.

Note!
Panels standard drywall, depending on the thickness, are divided into ceiling and wall.

• moisture resistant;
• Fire resistant.

AT last years Knauf, one of the main manufacturers of drywall, has released Superpol sheets, which are designed for leveling floor coverings. They have increased strength.

Important!
Drywall is ideal for finishing residential premises, as it is environmentally friendly and does not emit toxic substances when heated.
It has an acidity close to the acidity of human skin and naturally regulates the microclimate in the room.

Modern repair technology cannot do without it. It is thanks to drywall that it is possible to build multi-level structures, creating modern design premises.

How to install drywall

Drywall installation is carried out using frame and frameless methods.

• frameless- sheets of drywall using special glue are attached directly to the walls.

• frame- a frame for drywall is mounted from galvanized metal profiles of a certain shape or wooden slats, and sheets are already fixed to it with self-tapping screws.

Each method of fixing drywall has its own strengths and weaknesses.

• Frameless allows you to save room space, but its installation requires smooth wall coverings and installation work is delayed for a long time due to the fact that before further work you have to wait until the glue hardens.
• Frame fastening makes it easy to install thermal insulation and communications, but you have to install sound insulation, and the size of the room is concealed, albeit slightly.

Important!
At wireframe method installation of wall scraping for electrical wiring can be avoided. That is, there will be practically no dust during work.

Drywall not only level the walls. When redevelopment of the premises, partitions from GKL are the best option. They are lightweight, easy to use and can be lined with anything.

Related articles:

Wooden base of plasterboard partitions

Those who, after installing partitions, want to live in comfort, with good sound insulation, and those for whom one of the main parameters is environmental Safety premises - they decide to make a frame for drywall from wood.

In order to extend the life of the structure, the choice wooden parts the frame should be approached with all seriousness.

• The cross-sectional dimensions of the cut of the selected parts for vertical racks should not be less than 40x70 mm in cross section, and 30x50 mm for horizontal ones.
• All wooden slats without fail impregnated with an antiseptic - in order to protect against insects, and a mixture that gives the structure fire safety.

Important!
This procedure is a necessity that will help you save money on repairs in the future.

• The frame is made from coniferous trees. The moisture content of wooden parts should not exceed 15%.

Note!
Design requirements - the first group of fire resistance.

Tools for the job

In order to carry out the work on the manufacture of the frame, you must have the following tools at hand:

• Drill.
• Saw or hacksaw.

• Screwdriver.
• Screwdriver.
• Level.
• Mounting dowels.
• Wood screws.
• Metal corners.

Making a partition in an apartment

To make a wooden frame for drywall, you must first prepare an accurate drawing, which will indicate the locations of all doorways.

• When calculating the rigidity of the structure, it is required to take into account the number of horizontal elements.
• Counted up required amount drywall sheets.
• The partition body is assembled. Installation begins with the strapping support bars. Fastening to the floor and ceiling is carried out with self-tapping screws and dowels.

• Vertical struts are installed.
• Horizontal support rails are fixed between the vertical posts.

The cross section of the beam of these rails is allowed to be smaller in size than that of the racks, but, nevertheless, not less than 30x50 mm.

Important!
Sheets of drywall during sewing must be shifted relative to each other on its opposite walls.

• A heater is installed on the partition mounted on one side, and possibly insulated electrical wiring.
• Sheathing begins on the side from which the insulation is fixed.

Installation of insulation is necessary to reduce the sound permeability of the structure.

As a heater, mineral fiber mats, polystyrene foam of various densities or polystyrene foam are used. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages, and the decision which insulation to use depends on the purpose of the room.

Note!
Insulating materials from mineral wool, such as basalt or dolomite fiber, provide additional protection structures from moisture and reduce the fire hazard of the room.

The length of metal dowels for drywall, with which the insulation is fixed, should be at least 25-30 mm. Otherwise, the design will be unreliable and short-lived.

Wooden frame for wall cladding

It is advisable to install drywall on a wooden frame when cladding walls if their height is more than three meters or the walls have significant roughness and poor-quality plaster coating.

• The wall is marked under the frame.
• are revealed dangerous places with loose plaster and irregularities.
• The crate is installed in accordance with the measurements taken, starting with a horizontal beam, which is fixed to the floor.

• Vertical slats are mounted to the horizontal beam with an indent of 10 mm from the edge of the crate. The step between them is taken 600 mm.
• After the verticality of the structure is checked by a plumb line (level), a second horizontal bar is fixed to the ceiling, to which vertical slats are attached.
• Structural alignment on uneven floor under the horizontal beam is carried out by lining chipboard scraps or wood left over from the slats.

Tips:

• In order not to make cuts in drywall when making lathing near door or window openings vertical slats move.
• During subsequent sheeting of joints above window or doorways should not be.

Installing drywall on a wooden frame with your own hands is not at all difficult, even in the absence of a partner. Even easier, if the floors are even, the process of such installation is not difficult.

A properly made wooden frame for drywall is in no way inferior in its reliability to a supporting structure made of metal profiles.

Gypsum boards (gypsum plasterboards) are a fairly complex material of the composite type. It is made from plaster, cardboard and various additives. The latter give drywall special qualities. Chief among them is the high Fire safety and excellent soundproofing. In addition, when using GKL, a minimum of dirt and waste is generated. This distinguishes it favorably from other construction activities.

Plasterboard sheets are made of three types:

• standard;
• fire resistant;
• moisture resistant.

Types of drywall sheets

GKL is used for the construction of partitions in residential and office space, wall and ceiling surfaces. Some modern manufacturers(for example, KNAUF) have launched in recent years the production of special drywall, ideal for flooring. Due to the fact that GKL does not emit harmful compounds during operation (the material is considered environmentally safe) and is characterized by an acidity index approximately identical to the acidity of human skin, it is often used for repair work in residential buildings.

Among other things, drywall is able to create an optimal microclimate in living rooms. It can naturally regulate the humidity in them. Nowadays, drywall sheets are almost indispensable for performing various kinds repair work. They make and simple designs, and chic multi-level buildings. Due to this, you can create the most modern bright and original design in your home.

There are the following technologies for mounting drywall sheets: frameless and frame. In the first case, sheet products are attached to the wall with an adhesive. The second technology involves the preliminary arrangement of a special frame. Subsequently, drywall is attached to it.

The frameless method makes it possible to save room space. Its significant drawback is that the installation of GKL is allowed exclusively on flat wall. But with the help of a frame technique, drywall can be fixed on surfaces that have bulges and depressions. But at the same time, the total volume of the room becomes smaller.

Frameless installation method GKL

GKL frame mounting technology is a minimum construction dust. You do not need to make grooves in the wall for wiring and other household communications, all systems are placed in the free space between the structure skeleton and the wall surface.

The frame for the subsequent installation of drywall sheets on the wall is easily built with your own hands. home craftsman with minimal experience in carrying out repair activities, in a matter of hours, he will erect a skeleton for gypsum boards. And then it will also quickly fasten drywall to a self-made structure.

In most cases, the frame is made of metal profile products. But there is also a simpler method. It makes it possible to build skeletons for plasterboards from light and easy-to-install wooden products (battens, beams). We will talk about this method of creating a frame structure for drywall with our own hands.

It is recommended to build a frame for mounting the GKL on the wall from coniferous wood. In this case, the wood must have a moisture content in the range of 12-18%, and also undergo a special fire-retardant treatment at the manufacturer of the beams or laths. It is also recommended to additionally apply on wooden products antiseptics. This treatment will protect the frame from:

• rodents (the smell of an antiseptic well repels mice and other animals that can damage the structure);
• mold and fungal microorganisms that destroy wood;
• carpenter insects;
• biological natural decay.

It is allowed to do the antiseptic protection of wood with your own hands. For these purposes, you can use sodium fluoride. It is sold as a light gray fine powder. You will need to mix the purchased mixture in well-heated (but not boiling) water (35–40 g of the drug per 1 liter of liquid). Then process with the resulting composition all the elements of the future frame for drywall.

Sodium fluoride for antiseptic protection of wood

Fluorine antiseptic easily penetrates into wooden products and is practically not washed out of them. It is important that it is non-toxic to humans, has no odor, and does not decompose during operation. Working with such a composition is simple and safe. Almost complete analogue of fluoride is sodium silicofluoride. It is allowed to purchase such a drug. But before use, add a little soda (calcined) to it.

It is impossible to carry out antiseptic treatment of wood with compounds containing the following components:

• anthracene oils;
• coal;
• creosote;
• slate.

The effect of their use will be good. But they are harmful to human health, as they are recognized as toxic substances. Pro tip! Before arranging the frame for mounting drywall on the wall, be sure to give wooden products lie down in the room where you will build the structure. In 48–72 hours, the wood will fully adapt to the humidity and temperature conditions. This process in the language of specialists is called tree acclimatization.

The construction we are interested in is made of wooden bars or slats of different sections - from 3x5 cm to 5x6 cm. The specific dimensions of the lumber are selected taking into account the expected load on the frame. All work is carried out using the most common building tools- hacksaws or saws, electric drills, screwdrivers, screwdrivers, levels. Nails and mounting dowels are used as fasteners.

Important point! GKL is mounted on frame structure in cases where wall surfaces are characterized by low-quality coating (plaster or other) and significant roughness. It is also desirable to install such a structure when finishing walls in rooms with a height of 3 meters or more. The implementation of the adhesive technology for mounting GKL with their own hands in such high rooms is recognized by professionals as inappropriate.

Installation of plasterboard on a frame structure

A wooden frame on the wall is created according to the following scheme:

1. Analyze the state of the wall surface. Found irregularities are sealed with putty (plaster), areas with a peeling old coating are cleaned.
2. Mark up the wall. Perform this operation with strict observance of levels and angles (use measuring tools).
3. The horizontal beam is mounted first. It should be fixed to the floor base with anchors.
4. Attach vertically to installed timber wooden slats. They should be about 1 cm from the edge of the crate. The distance between the individual vertical elements- 60 cm.
5. Check the correct position of the rails with a level.
6. Install the second horizontal element on the ceiling.

Before proceeding with the installation of the gypsum board, you should align the frame made. If the floors in the room are uneven, correct position a horizontal bar can be set by lining pieces of wood or scraps of wood-shaving products under it. After leveling the skeleton, firmly fix all its parts. That's the whole technology of assembling a wooden frame on the wall. Feel free to proceed with the installation of the GKL on a skeleton made by yourself.

The installation of drywall sheets should begin from the window or doorway of the room or from its far corner. GCR is fixed with wood screws. The mounting step of the hardware is 25 cm. It is recommended to use self-tapping screws with a length of no more than 3.5 cm.

Installation of drywall sheets on a wooden frame

Important note: if you are installing moisture resistant sheets, it is best to fix them to the frame with jagged galvanized nails. Place the first self-tapping screw (nail) at a distance of 1.5 cm from the edge of the unlined edge of the GKL (1 cm from the lined one). Another subtlety of the work - when fixing drywall, it is necessary to move from one edge of the sheet to the other. In this case, the installation of products is carried out end-to-end. Special edges are provided on the end parts of the GKL. According to them, you can subsequently easily close the gaps between the products (first prime them, and then process them with putty).

Finally, we add that the fasteners must be installed as carefully as possible. Make sure that the heads of nails or self-tapping screws do not break through the front side of the plasterboard. Such fasteners hold the sheets very poorly. Over time, drywall products will begin to walk and loosen up, which, quite possibly, will lead to the destruction of the entire structure.

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Drywall on a wooden frame: arguments and counter-arguments, restrictions and installation tips

When does it make sense to mount a drywall sheet on a frame in general, and on a wooden frame in particular? In what cases is it not advisable to use a wooden crate? How and from what it is correct to assemble a wooden frame for drywall? How to perform frame sheathing and puttying GKL? In my article I will try to answer these questions.

GKL against plaster

First, let's decide whether it is worth messing with drywall at all, or is it better to use plaster in the old fashioned way.

Here are the arguments in favor of the GKL:

• High finishing speed due to large sheet area (3 square meters with a size of 2500x1200 mm);
• Possibility with minimal cost eliminate significant irregularities in the base. Say, with a height difference between adjacent elements of a slab floor of 8-10 centimeters (yes, yes, this happens), it is very expensive and unsafe to level the ceiling with plaster: falling plaster of such thickness can cause a lot of trouble.

But for the GKL on the crate, the state of the surface under it does not matter - if only there was something to attach the frame to;

• The surface of kraft paper (gypsum core shell) has excellent adhesive properties. You can glue wallpaper of any density on it using any wallpaper glue; the tile is also perfectly glued to cement tile adhesive or home-made cement-based mortar.

Curious: for tiling the drywall over the bathroom, I used spot applied silicone sealant. It was also used to seal the joints between the tiles and adjoin the apron to the bath. All seams retain absolute tightness for three years of active use of the bathroom; The tiles are more than secure.

How does drywall compare to plaster?

1. mechanical strength. I will clarify: according to this parameter, gypsum sheet material second only to cement plaster. Using plasterboard for wall decoration in a gym or workshop is a dubious idea;
2. Resistant to water with constant contact with it. Alas, even moisture-resistant drywall tolerates only high humidity. It is worth immersing the gypsum core in water - and it will get wet just like any other gypsum product. Accordingly, it would be a bad idea to use drywall without the protection of a waterproof finish for the construction of shower walls;
3. Occupied usable area rooms. Walls with minor irregularities in a small room are best leveled with a thin layer of plaster: after all, even glued directly to the wall, without a crate, a GKL sheet, taking into account the thickness of the glue, will shift the surface of each wall by at least 20 mm. When mounted on a frame, each wall will move to the center of the room already by 60 - 80 mm.

Frame against glue

When is it worth mounting drywall on the frame, and when is it better to glue it directly to the wall?

Everything is simple here: if the drops, blockages and curvilinearity of the base exceeds 40 - 50 millimeters, the frame is necessary. In other cases, glue is preferable: again, it will save room space.

There are, however, two more scenarios that will make you lean towards fastening the GKL along the crate:

1. Mounting drywall partition. Here, comments seem to be not required: without a frame, its skin simply has nothing to attach to;
2. Laying behind the lining of the wall of communications - water supply, sewerage, electrical wiring, ventilation ducts, etc. Hiding them behind a false wall is much easier than ditching a main wall.

In some cases (for example, when it comes to a panel partition inside an apartment), strobes of considerable width and depth are impossible in principle.

Tree versus profile

In what cases is it permissible to install drywall on a wooden frame, and when is a galvanized profile preferable?

The bar has the only advantage - cheapness. In order not to be unfounded, I will give the average prices for a bar and a profile for the Moscow region:

Next: wood, unlike galvanized steel, hygroscopic, and is also capable of change its linear dimensions and geometry depending on air humidity. On the practical side, this means that in a damp room, a wooden crate can warp and bend the wall cladding, or even lead to cracks along its seams.

Finally the tree subject to biological influences: it rots and becomes food for woodworms. Again, unlike galvanized.

1. Drywall wood frame can be used only in dry rooms. For a bathroom, kitchen or combined bathroom, you should prefer a galvanized profile;
2. The elements of the crate before assembling it must be to be treated with an antiseptic.

Loophole

There is, however, an easy way to bring the wood closer to the galvanized profile along performance. In order for it to completely lose its hygroscopicity and the ability to deform with fluctuations in humidity, the bar is enough impregnate with drying oil: the oils that make it up will fill the pores between the fibers in the outer layer of the tree, forming a water-impermeable shell during polymerization.

This operation has several subtleties:

• Drying oil is best applied heated in a water bath. Then it penetrates deeper into the fiber structure; accordingly, the waterproof coating will be more durable;

• It is easier not to cover the ends of a bar cut to size with drying oil with a brush, but to dip it into a jar with it. It is the ends, due to the orientation of the fibers perpendicular to the surface, that are most vulnerable to moisture;
• Drying oil dries for several days and has a strong characteristic odor. For drying the bar, it is better to highlight separate room with good ventilation.

Material selection

What exactly is the frame for drywall made of wood made of?

It was not in vain that I cited as an example the prices for a crate a bar measuring 50x50 millimeters: it is he who is the most popular material for assembling the frames of partitions and crates (ceiling and wall).

With special requirements for the rigidity of the partition, it can also be assembled from a bar 50x100; in this case, the wide side is oriented perpendicular to the plane of the wall: this is how maximum resistance to side loads is achieved.

Finally, when mounting the wall batten, edged and unedged board arbitrary width. It is attached to the main wall with long dowel screws or even nails in wooden choppers.

Are there any requirements for the quality of wood?

When assembling the frame or when installing the crate on suspensions - yes.

Wood should not have defects from the following list:

• Rot and damage by woodworms;
• Oblique layer (significant deviation of the direction of the wood fibers from the longitudinal axis of the bar);
• Falling knots with a diameter of more than a third of the side of the bar.

The instruction is connected with the fact that all these defects have a detrimental effect on the strength of the frame. In addition, the moisture content of the wood should not exceed 20%: when drying, the bar often warps.

Frame mounting rules

Partition

The assembly of the partition frame begins with marking the fastening lines of the upper and lower trim on the ceiling and on the floor, as well as the extreme racks on the adjacent walls. To keep the lines strictly in the same plane, use a plumb line.

Then, strapping bars and extreme racks are attached to the floor, ceiling and adjacent walls. Under them is laid damper tape, excluding the transmission of acoustic vibrations capital structures buildings and thereby contribute to sound insulation. For fastening the strapping and racks to the walls can be used anchor bolts or ordinary dowel-screws.

The next step is the installation of racks. The step between them is determined by the requirements for the rigidity of the partition and is 40 or 60 centimeters. The width of the sheet (120 cm) must be a multiple of this step so that the seam between adjacent sheets falls exactly in the middle of the rack.

The edges of adjacent sheets, if possible, should be attached to a common element of the frame or crate for them. In this case, the likelihood of cracks at the seams is minimal.

The connections of the racks with the strapping do not experience significant operational loads - they are taken over by the sheathing of the partition, drywall, therefore, any methods of attaching the racks are acceptable:

• Hammered or angled nails or self-tapping screws;
• An insert from a trimming bar, which is attached to the harness, after which the rack is attracted to it;

• Galvanized perforated lining;
• Furniture corners;
• Insert racks half a tree with landing on glue. However, it is not suitable for frame elements impregnated with drying oil: impregnation reduces the adhesive qualities of the adhesive.

For gluing dry wood, you can use both specialized wood glues and ordinary PVA construction glue. For our purposes, the strength of its seam is quite sufficient; drying glue takes no more than 12 hours.

How to install a door in a wooden frame partition?

1. In the lower trim, a pass is made for the width of the door with the box;
2. The door leaf is wedged in the box with wooden wedges. The goal is to leave gaps after installation that do not allow the door to overwrite jambs;
3. From one of the edges of the doorway, a rack adjacent to the box is mounted;
4. A strip is applied to the outer surface of the box polyurethane foam, after which it is attracted by self-tapping screws to the rack. Self-tapping screws are screwed in from the side of the rack, their length is selected so that they go deep into the box, but do not go through it;
5. On the second side of the opening, the second rack is mounted in the same way;
6. From above, the racks are connected by a jumper;
7. All connections of racks with strapping are reinforced with galvanized lining on self-tapping screws.

A light window (for example, in the wall of a bathroom) is installed in a similar way - adjusted for the fact that its frame rests on a horizontal jumper between the uprights.

Lathing on hangers

How to assemble a wooden crate for wall cladding with significant irregularities with drywall with your own hands?

1. The assembly of the frame in this case also begins with the attachment to the floor and ceiling of the lower and top strapping. A damper tape is also placed under them. The method of attaching the harnesses is the same as in the scenario discussed above;
2. Then, extreme racks are attached to the adjacent walls through the damper flight;
3. On the main wall, strictly vertically, along the plumb line, the positions of the intermediate racks are marked (I remind you, in increments of 40 or 60 cm from center to center of the bar);
4. Along each rack with a step of 80 cm, direct suspensions are fastened with dowel-screws;
5. The racks are set according to the markings, after which the ears of the suspensions are screwed to them with wood screws 25 mm long. The free part of the ears is bent to the wall. The frame is ready for sheathing.

Lathing on gaskets

With a relatively small curvilinearity of the wall, the crate can be attached to it without hangers, using spacers from scraps of wood or plywood. In this case, as I mentioned above, you can use not only a bar, but also an unedged board.

If necessary, lumber of any width can be dissolved into narrow boards or a bar of ordinary manual circular saw with guide frame. Sawing one board takes no more than two to three minutes.

The crate is attached to the main wall with long dowel screws or nails into pre-drilled holes with wooden chopsticks. The lower harness as such is missing; instead of it, short bars are drawn into the gap between the racks of the crate to the floor and ceiling, which will later serve to fasten the plinth and baguette.

Ceiling

The frame of a simple single-level flow is mounted in the same way as a crate on direct suspensions - adjusted for the location in horizontal plane. Thick (at least 15 mm) plywood is used to create a frame for the curved elements of a multilevel flow; when sheathing, the GKL is attracted by self-tapping screws to its end.

sheathing

How to mount drywall on a wooden frame?

For wall cladding, wall plasterboard with a thickness of 12.5 mm is used. The ceiling is usually sheathed ceiling plasterboard 9.5 mm thick. In dry rooms, ordinary GKL (white) is used, in wet rooms - moisture resistant (blue).

Let me remind you once again: in rooms with high humidity, the wooden frame must be consistently impregnated with an antiseptic and drying oil.

To fasten the sheet, wood screws 32 mm long are used. The length of the self-tapping screws exceeds that used when mounting on a profile. The step between adjacent attachment points is 15-20 centimeters; the average consumption of fasteners is 100 self-tapping screws per sheet 2500x1200 in size.

When installing additional sheets (if the height of the wall exceeds the length of the sheet), an additional bar is laid under the seam perpendicular to the uprights. Instead, you can use a piece of board or thick (from 12 mm) plywood. The main thing is that the edges of adjacent sheets are attached to a common frame element.

Where a wall or partition does not experience deforming loads (for example, under the ceiling), you can do without laying a bar under the transverse seam. In his absence, it is especially important to correctly perform the reinforcement, which I will talk about a little later.

In rooms with high traffic or with expected significant loads on the walls (kitchen, hallway, etc.), it is better to sheathe the frame in two layers. GKL of the first layer is fastened with self-tapping screws 32 mm long; fastener consumption - 20-30 self-tapping screws per full-size sheet. The second layer of GKL is mounted with dressing of horizontal and vertical seams; for fastening, wood screws 45 mm long are used at the rate of 100 pieces per sheet.

How to cut drywall to the desired size?

• Curvilinear parts are cut with an electric jigsaw with a wood file. GKL is cut by him very quickly and without any effort, but when cutting, a huge amount of gypsum dust rises into the air. It settles on all surfaces in the room. Gypsum is especially destructive for the bearings of cooling systems for computers and laptops, so for the duration of the repair they must be kept turned off and covered with polyethylene;

• Along the straight lines of the GKL are incised sharp knife along the ruler a quarter of the thickness, after which they break on the edge of the table or any other suitable elevation.

After installation, the seams between the sheets cut to size are embroidered: a chamfer is sharply removed from the edges at an angle of 45 degrees to half the thickness of the sheet.

Reinforcement and puttying

A drywall sheathed wall or partition is not yet ready for fine finish: caps of self-tapping screws and seams between sheets must be hidden with putty. In addition, the seams and outer corners of the walls need reinforcement and reinforcement.

Traditionally used for reinforcing seams sickle- self-adhesive fiberglass mesh with a cell size of about 2 millimeters. It is glued along the seam, after which it is filled with putty directly through the mesh cells. It is necessary to putty at least twice: gypsum putty gives a small, but quite noticeable shrinkage during drying.

External corners are reinforced:

• Galvanized perforated corner profile;
• Plastic profile with mesh.

The corner is recessed in the putty applied to the corner, after which it is covered with another layer of it.

However: I prefer to use a decorative plastic corner pasted after puttying and painting on silicone sealant to protect the corners.

In the photo - the corner of the partition, protected by a decorative plastic corner.

What putty to use to level the surface?

The most common in Russia are gypsum putties produced German company Knauf - HP Finish and Fugen. However, I liked the cheaper and less common ABS Saten: the mixture lives noticeably longer (at least 45 minutes versus 25-30 for Knauf products), if necessary, can be diluted with water (which increases its life time to an hour or more) and does not give lumps when mixed.

How to prepare putty?

1. Water at the rate of 1 liter per 1.6 kg dry gypsum mixture poured into a wide bowl (I use a plastic paint bucket);
2. The mixture is poured into water, distributing as evenly as possible over its surface;
3. After 3-5 minutes, the swollen putty is mixed - manually (with a spatula) or with a mixer nozzle for a drill.

How and how to properly putty the seams, corners and caps of self-tapping screws?

• Hats are covered with two movements of a spatula 10-12 cm wide crosswise. The first sliding movement fills the recess with putty, the second ("to strip") removes its excess;
• The seams are also filled with cruciform movements of the same spatula. In this case, the seam is filled with putty as tightly as possible. Cavities in it increase the likelihood of cracks. With the second pass, the seam, together with the sickle reinforcing it, is covered with longitudinal movements of the spatula 30–35 cm wide;

• For alignment of external and internal corners it is better to use special corner spatulas.

After filling the seams and masking the caps of the GKL fasteners, they often putty over the entire area. A layer of putty about a millimeter thick completely masks the seams and does not allow the base to shine through the painting.

Next stage - grinding. GCR is ground with grids No. 80 in the first pass and No. 120 - 160 in the second pass. It is better to grind in bright oblique lighting, which will emphasize the slightest irregularities due to the shadows they cast. I use an inexpensive vibratory sander for grinding.

By the way: if necessary, intermediate grinding can be performed after filling the seams and sealing the screws. Its necessity is determined only by the state of the surface.

The smooth surface of the GKL is dedusted (I clean it of dust with an ordinary whisk) and primed with a penetrating acrylic primer. The primer will stick the remaining dust and improve the adhesion between the surface of the drywall and finish coating- paint or wallpaper.

Wallpaper can be glued immediately after the soil has dried, but painting will have to wait at least two weeks after puttying. If you hurry, the seams will show through any number of layers of paint due to moisture that has not completely evaporated.

Conclusion

I sincerely hope that I was able to answer all the questions that the dear reader has accumulated. As usual, the video in this article will offer additional information to your attention. Feel free to share in the comments own experience. Good luck, comrades!

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