How to install a perforated corner with your own hands. How to use a perforated plaster corner Which perforated corner is better for plastering slopes

When working with drywall, you need to learn the technique of processing corners when fixed perforated corner under putty. Aligning walls with a material such as drywall is a fairly popular procedure, as it easily solves the problem of the need to correct the curvature of the surface to be treated. That is why it is so important to master all the stages of work that will allow you not to resort to the help of specialists.

Puttying drywall corners - briefly about the main thing

Before you start working with drywall, you need to acquire and assimilate a number of relevant knowledge on how to level corners with putty. If the work is done incorrectly or inaccurately, appearance designs will not be the most attractive. And this, of course, is to be avoided. During the procedure, drywall can be damaged - the material is fragile and requires special care.

For processing external corners, special perforated corners made of metal or plastic are used. They help protect drywall from mechanical damage. To do this, putty is applied on both sides of the joint of the sheets on the outer corner. From above, a specially prepared corner is gently applied and pressed into the solution required size, which is subsequently completely puttied. To do this, another layer of the solution is applied. After the putty dries, the quality of the work performed is evaluated for evenness and, if it is not achieved, the treated area is primed and the solution is applied again.

The inner corner must be puttied with a sickle. The technique for performing work is similar to that used in the processing of simple seams. A right angle can be obtained using a special spatula. It is dipped into the solution and the joint is processed.

How do you putty corners with your own hands? What does that require? Is it necessary to have special knowledge, skills and experience, or is it available to everyone? Let's try to find answers to these questions.

Materials and tools for filling drywall corners

Before you start puttying the corners, you need to purchase all necessary materials and tools. Do not forget that the success of future work depends on their quality as a whole.

To process drywall corners, you will need: primary and finishing putty, perforated corners (metal or plastic), non-woven tape, sickle or construction mesh, metal flat and angled spatula, construction knife.

Arched perforated corners can also be useful for leveling drywall corners. They are used when processing surfaces that have a rounded or wavy shape, as well as for complex elements suspended ceiling.

On the this moment best of trademarks in the Russian market for the production of putty mixtures, Fgenfüller is considered. It is recommended to use it when processing drywall corners by most construction professionals.

Several possible workflows

For a more detailed consideration of this topic, we have divided it into several workflows and we will try to describe each in detail.

Scheme 1 Plastic corner AquaBead.

AquaBead is a plastic perforated corner coated with special paper, inner side which is covered with glue. It does not require the first layer to be attached to the corner to be machined. Glue is soaked with ordinary water. The work is carried out as follows:

1. The drywall end is checked for evenness. The surface must be treated with a damp sponge or primer.
2. A corner of the required size and length is cut off.
3. The inner surface of the corner is evenly treated with water using a spray gun. The glue is activated within 20-30 seconds, after which you can proceed with the installation. You can check the readiness of the adhesive for separation by touching the surface of the corner with your fingers.
4. Corner is glued. To do this, it is tightly pressed against the corner and smoothed along the entire length.
5. The initial putty mixture is being prepared. 20 minutes after gluing the corner, you can start puttying.
6. A thin (about 2 cm) layer of putty is applied over the corner with a spatula. The surface is leveled to the maximum.

If you did not manage to use the AquaBead corner during the time and the glue froze, then you can re-treat the surface with water - all adhesive properties will be preserved.

Scheme 2 Metal corner.

When using a metal corner to process drywall corners:

1. The initial putty mixture is being prepared.
2. The end face is checked for evenness.
3. A corner of the required length and size is being prepared.
4. Putty is applied to both sides of the processed corner.
5. A corner is leaned against the corner and pressed into the putty mixture. Putty will come out of the holes on the surface of the corner, which must be immediately leveled with the addition of a small amount of fresh mortar. Level the surface.

It is better to remove the excess mixture from the very corner of the corner, since it will not contact very well in this place and, accordingly, will be attached to the surface.

Scheme 3 Metal corner and stapler.

With this method, at the first stage of attaching a metal corner to drywall, not a putty mixture is used, but a construction stapler. Further, the top corner is also covered with initial putty.

Scheme 4 Semicircular plastic corner

This type of corners is used in rooms where the most likely mechanical influences on corners and walls. The corner itself has a rounded surface instead of a sharp corner and is made of very flexible durable plastic. Features of its installation appear on preparatory stage. The processed end of the drywall must be cut one and a half to two centimeters at an angle of 45 degrees. Next, a plentiful layer of initial putty prepared in advance for use is applied. cropped under right size the corner is pressed into the mixture applied to the wall and additionally fixed with construction stapler. The edges are leveled with putty. The putty mixture must be removed from the semicircular part of the corner with a damp sponge.

Puttying the inner corner of drywall

1. Place a sickle on the corners of drywall or construction grid. The joint should be exactly the middle of the strip of material.
2. Apply pre-prepared putty mixture.
3. Level with a special angled trowel.

Stage of final works

How to align the corners with putty at the final stage?

1. After the last layer of the initial putty has hardened, be sure to check the corner for evenness. If necessary, prime it and apply another layer of the mixture to level the surface.
2. It is very important to process the corners at the end finishing putty. It will help to further level the surface, making the corners more aesthetic. After that, they are ready for further construction and repair activities (i.e. painting, wallpapering, etc.).
3. One of the recommended measures is to stick a non-woven tape over the last layer. This measure will help increase the ability of the corner to withstand mechanical damage, i.e. will make it more durable. This is done through the following actions:
   • A non-woven tape is glued to the still uncured mixture.
   • With the help of a spatula, it is carefully leveled. The putty mixture impregnates the tape through and through.
   • Finishing putty is applied.

A perforated profile (perforated corner) is installed to protect and align external corners.

Most often, such protection is installed on the outer corners of slopes, columns, openings, niches, arches ...

Some craftsmen, without bothering, fix the perforated corner dry with a mounting stapler, and then apply putty on top, but I think that this is not entirely correct. The perforated profile, regardless of the material - metal or plastic, primarily serves to protect and reinforce the corner, which means that the inner cavity under it should not be empty, but completely filled with strong putty, for example, CE 78, FUGENFULLER, UNIFLOTT ...

I will tell you step by step how I install the perforated profile at the corners of the arched opening. Installing an arched profile on both sides along the thickness of the arch is more complicated and has its own nuances, unlike fastening the profile, for example, on a window slope. It is this option with an opening that we will consider.

First, we determine from which side of the opening you need to start installing protection. To do this, with a locksmith's corner, we check whether the end of the opening is unfolded. This is usually drywall partition and the drywaller does not always pay attention to this nuance. We start the installation from the corner that protrudes more (acute corner). If both corners are 90 degrees, it doesn't matter which side to start framing.

So with a spatula we put putty on the outer corner of the opening:

We apply putty on both adjacent sides of the corner without gaps, so that there are no voids under the installed perforated corner.

Before installing the profile on the floor, it is advisable to put a lining or a wedge of a few millimeters, in this case a nylon dowel was at hand (seen in the photo). Such a "trifle" will not allow the profile to cling to the lower end and will allow it to be set without problems.

Carefully install the perforated corner, pressing it into the putty:

With a spatula, we remove the excess putty that has come out. After that, usually, a level is applied to the profile and with light blows rubber mallet placed in a vertical position.

In our case, the first profile has already been set. Now the second profile is to be set in such a way that the framed end of the opening is not turned, but has 90 degrees.

The difficulty lies in the fact that the installed perforated profile protrudes 3 millimeters beyond the plane of the wall. If we attach the locksmith's corner close to the plane of the wall, then we will not get an angle of 90 degrees. To compensate for the thickness of the perforated profile, you can use, for example, cutting the wire of the desired thickness:

Pressing the profile with a locksmith's corner with such a "fit" every 20-30 cm, we set it in the design position. To control the plane, the installed profile can be additionally checked with a level.

On the curved part of the arch, we expose the profile with the same locksmith's corner with a "fit" to maintain a right angle. To fix the arched corner in the design position, you can use self-tapping screws, screwing them into the holes of individual segments.

At the final finishing works ah indoors, the task of how to putty drywall corners is one of the main ones. And this is no accident! Without its proper implementation, first of all, a room or apartment will retain a somewhat untidy appearance. Flaws will appear through the glued wallpaper, which are by no means pleasing to the eye.

Learn how to putty drywall corners the right way!

And in the case of external corners - on doorways, suspended structures with additional lighting, in doorless aisles and decorative niches - there is a risk that your beauty will not last long at all. This is because drywall is not the most durable finishing material, and not only people, but also the objects carried by them tend to cling to the corners.

So there is a high chance that someone will someday hook on the protruding corners and turn them out. If you do not take certain actions to strengthen, soon your newly finished room will meet guests with peeled corners, from which crumbled plaster will begin to pour. Agree, the sight is not pleasant. Left without attention, the inner corners will show off with failed seams, not only after wallpapering, but also after painting, for example. And you will have to forget about artistic plaster (Venetian) altogether.

How to putty drywall corners, depends on whether they are processed externally or internally. Each type will need its own materials, but the work itself is quite simple. They can be carried out independently, without inviting professional finishers. How to do this, following our instructions and tips, is described in this article.

External corners

To process them you will need:

• putty and spatula to it;
• level;
• sloping corner - perforated metal or the same plastic;
• Which profile to choose is a matter of taste and the location of the outer corner. On the aisles, where the probability of a collision with him by walking people is higher, a metal one is placed. In niches or on ceiling ledges, plastic is enough.
• The putty is kneaded or the container with the finished one is opened.
• The length of the trimmed side is measured.
• The desired piece of the profile is cut off.
• The level checks the degree of deformation of the outer corner. If there is no level, you can attach a profile and visually assess how tightly it fits to the surface and where dips and protrusions are observed.

If the corner is even, the corner sits immediately on the finishing putty. In the event that a certain curvature is present, the starting one is applied: a kind of beacons-cakes are placed in the recesses, in other places the layer is made much thinner. The profile is slightly pressed in to keep it on the corner, checked by the level and, if necessary, its position is corrected.

After making sure that the corner is aligned almost perfectly, it is puttied permanently. It is necessary to act carefully, since the profile has not yet been fixed, and in the process of embedding it can be shifted.

When the final layer is completely dry, the entire surface is sanded. After that, you can begin to putty the entire wall.

If the ceiling is two-level or the doorway is made in the form of an arch, the arched cutouts are reinforced with flexible arched profiles. You cannot check the smoothness of the arc with a profile. To do this, use a pre-prepared template made of thick cardboard, corresponding to the intended bend.

Rounded external slopes, as well as those made at an obtuse or sharp (not right) angle, cannot be strengthened with a perforated profile. They are sealed with a thick layer of putty. If such an angle is located in a passageway, that is, there is a high risk that it will often cling to it, the putty is strengthened with a reinforced elastic serpentine tape, which closes the internal corners. Only for these purposes, the tape is taken wider.

Internal corners

They will require less hassle, however, it depends on the accuracy of their sealing how smoothly the wallpaper will be pasted in the future and how quickly this process will go. It is imperative to check the strict verticality so that the strips dock without gaps during gluing and at the same time you do not have to cut too much. You will need, in principle, the same tools, only the profile is replaced with a sickle, and the spatula is taken circular.

Note that some finishers use perforated paper tape instead of reinforcing mesh. The method has the right to exist, although other repairmen believe that it is more laborious and does not guarantee against the appearance of microcracks in the sealed joints.

In the corners between the drywall panels, there is certainly a gap, often quite deep. Putty is diluted, and put into the gap with a spatula with the capture of both joining canvases. On the sheet on each side, the putty should go about 5 centimeters.

Serpyanka edge clings under the ceiling. If you are careful in the hardware store and buy self-adhesive tape, you don’t need to coat it with anything first. However, in this case, you will need to wait until the patched corner dries and fine sandpaper remove excess putty. If you bought a cheaper sickle, there will be no adhesive layer on it. In this case, it must be laid on wet plaster, with which it will attach to the corner.

• The center of the tape should coincide as closely as possible with the joint of the plates.
• Serpyanka unwinds to the very bottom. Each piece of unwound tape is pressed tightly against both walls with a spatula. If you are not comfortable working with a roll of tape, you can cut a piece of the desired length. However, then the adhesive layer of the sickle will dry quickly and try to attach in the wrong place at all - for example, stick to the wall.
• When the corner is glued with a sickle, it is checked whether the tape is securely held. In places where it lags behind the wall, it is fixed with PVA and smoothed so that there are no wrinkles or swelling. The exposed glue is wiped with a damp cloth.
• After the adhesive layer has completely set (the time required for this is indicated on the package) or the starting putty, the corner is sealed and smoothed clean. You should get a flat and smooth surface on both sides of the seam.

After working on all the corners - both internal and external - you can start final stage process. It includes the finishing putty of the wall and ceiling plasterboard and final finishing selected materials. And do not try to spend extra money, since it is quite possible to putty drywall corners on your own, although this requires some dexterity and perseverance. In a day, you will definitely manage the room, even if it has niches, multilevel ceiling and archways.

How to install a perforated corner with your own hands

In this material, we will consider the process of installing a perforated corner. In particular, we will deal with the questions: how to fix the corner, how to align it, how to finish. For maximum clarity, the article is supplemented with relevant photographs and videos.

First of all, a few words about what is required to complete the work. So, in addition to the perforated corner, we need the following materials and tools:

• spatula (50 mm);
• spatula (150 mm);
• nozzle mixer (for a drill);
• maklovitsa (wide brush);
• building level;
• deep penetration primer;
• dry gypsum putty ("start").

Regarding the perforated corner. In this case, it all depends on the corner, the finishing of which you will be engaged in. If work is underway to repair the outer corner, in the room where there is most likely its damage, it is best to use a plastic corner. Such a room, for example, is a corridor.

Of course, the use of a plastic corner is not mandatory requirement rather than a recommendation. For finishing, you can equally successfully use both metal and plastic corners. Simply, plastic, in comparison with metal, is more advantageous in terms of durability: they do not crumple in the event of fairly strong blows.

Preparatory work

We figured out the tools and the type of corners, you can proceed to the preparatory process. It comes down to priming the repaired plane and preparing gypsum mortar.

First of all, we prepare a solution from the starting gypsum putty. By the way, for gluing a paint corner, you can use not only the starting one, but also finishing putty. You can also use various cementitious adhesives, such as adhesive for laying ceramic tiles.

The solution is prepared as follows: we collect a certain amount of water in a clean container, add the dry mixture to it and stir everything with a mixer. Important: the solution for installing the perforated corner should be quite thick - much thicker than, for example, for puttying walls or for gluing ceiling foam tiles (Pasting the ceiling with tiles).

So, the mixture is ready, you can proceed to the primer. Here everything is simple and fast: with the help of a maklovitsa, we apply the primer on the surface to be treated, smearing it evenly. There is no point in priming several times - once is enough.

Installation of the perforated corner and its alignment

Apply with a small spatula a large number of putty mortar on a larger spatula and with its help we transfer our glue directly to the repaired corner. We perform this work along the entire height of the corner.

Now we lean the perforated corner and gently “press” it. By pressing / pulling certain sections of the corner “by eye”, we align its verticality.

Next, we take the building level and with its help we check the evenness of the installation of the paint corner. If necessary, carefully, so as not to damage the corner, change its position. Thus, we achieve a perfectly even angle.

At the end, we putty a corner on one side and the other.

Fasteners and profile from the manufacturer

Most convenient to do this work after the putty, through which our corner is held, has completely dried. You can do this directly during the installation process, the main thing is to do everything as carefully as possible so as not to disturb the correct verticality of the corner.

Finally, the promised video of the entire installation process:

That's actually all. If you have any questions regarding the installation of a perforated corner, you can ask them in the comment format. Be sure: you will receive an answer as soon as possible!

It is interesting:

Fastening a perforated corner to an outer corner helps not only to align the joints of the walls, but also creates protection on them from accidental damage. The perforated corner is a metal element up to 3 meters in length with side strips that are perforated to improve fixation.

Perforated corner attachment.

To fix the paint corner, it is imperative to use a linear level, the length of which depends on the height of the corner. The fixing material can be start putty or a gypsum mixture with mineral additives that do not allow the composition to set quickly, but retain its plasticity.

As a rule, a solution is applied to the joint of the walls with a spatula, the corner is applied to the corner and aligned with the clamp with a long linear level. The accuracy of the work is controlled along the edge of the corner, as well as along its side lines. The remains of the solution are removed with a spatula and the perforation holes are closed with them.

There are corners that have on the sides, in addition to perforation, strips of reinforcing tape, which makes the coupling of the element with the sidewalls of the corner more reliable.

Choosing a tape for sealing drywall joints

The technology of fastening such a corner is no different from mounting a conventional metal element.

Increased attention is paid to fixing the corner when fixing it to the slopes. If your city of residence is Odessa plastic windows it has a place in the offices of many companies, however, a prudent owner should appreciate the means, therefore, when installing the slope, it is necessary to protect the window frame with masking tape.

The corner is installed on the starting putty or plaster plaster composition and is aligned with the vertical slope and the line of the wall adjacent to the window. For this, only a level of a shorter length is used. If alignment is not done along the wall, then a depression is formed, which can make its black contribution to the interior design. It is much easier to fix the corner on the slopes of drywall, because the GKL is pre-aligned during fixation (on glue or on the frame). In this case, a minimum amount of putty is required (necessarily “start”) and there are no additional difficulties.

More difficult task when fixing a protective and decorative element on a plaster slope. In this case, you can use a special plaster corner, which has a mesh instead of perforation. Its fastening should be carried out directly when performing plastering works, if the plaster is completed, and the corner is not exposed, then use its painting variation.

crooked installed corner dismantled and reinstalled again with a preliminary trimming of the corner of the walls.

Modern construction cannot do without new technologies and materials. Remember the turnkey apartment renovation until 1998, then there was no particular talk about quality.

Plasterboard plasterboard for painting and wallpaper: technology, sealing joints and corners

Yes, and what can we talk about when the plasterers were provided with only lime mortar, a wooden trowel, trowels, a ladle and a trowel for work. Accordingly, the walls and corners were not very even, and whoever tried to make everything beautiful spent a lot of time, but perfect result did not achieve it. And now the situation is completely different, the masters of plastering are at the disposal of: start and finish putty, beacons different thickness, perforated corners different types and much more, which facilitates the work and allows you to perform it efficiently and quickly. But the requirements for repair work also became tougher.

So the perforated corner appeared on the construction market. Now, without much effort, you can make a perfectly even outer corner and it will become stronger. Consider the three main types of perforated corners that have come into use for every puttyer.

Arched corner, allows you to display corners on arches and any curved structures, moving from the outer radius to the inner radius.

Perforated corner (corner profile) is used to protect external corners from mechanical damage. The entire shelf is perforated in the form of about half a centimeter holes, they can be either the same or different diameters. Installation is carried out as follows. A putty is applied to the corner of the structure, after which a perforated corner is installed. The strength and solidity of the entire structure with a corner is obtained due to the penetration of putty into the perforation of the corner. In section, the angle looks like a sharply bent corner, approximately 85°, which ensures a full fit over the entire plane during installation.

When working with the facades of buildings and structures, use a corner perforated with a fiberglass mesh. He also found application in the system of external insulation, using a reinforcing mesh.
All types of perforated corners are available in lengths of 3 and 2.5 meters. The required length of the corner can be cut with scissors for metal or ordinary scissors.

The next time you're looking to redecorate your home, don't forget to use the perforated corner. It will help to make the corners of your apartment more even, neat and protected from mechanical stress.

Every person strives to inner space in window opening smooth, even and attractive. For these purposes, it is best to use decorative corners for slopes made of high-quality plastic, aluminum or other materials.

What is this design?

The inner surface of any window opening is most often made using plastic. Now it is the most affordable, inexpensive and best option for finishing.

Puttying drywall corners - we make perfectly even and strong corners

Plastic is much cheaper than drywall and is presented in different colors.

But the end of the plastic strip, which has partitions, with outside doesn't look very presentable. To finished work had an attractive appearance decorative finishes plastic corners are used. These are common profiles that are included with the cladding panel.

Among the large and varied selection, one can find a section with L and F shape. At the enterprises they are made according to a special technology. The material is preheated to certain temperature, after which the hot bending of the rigid PVC sheet can be bent and given the desired shape.

Characteristics of profiles for slopes

Decorative corners for slopes will help hide small bumps or other wall defects. AT construction stores profile shelves are presented, which have various sizes. In most cases, the angle between them is at least 90 degrees.

Main types:

Less popular are designs that are equipped with asymmetrical shelves. Some people prefer to mount arched openings on windows, so you need to buy a special profile.

It is incredibly flexible and has standard sizes shelf widths. They converge at an angle of 90 degrees, and the total length does not exceed three meters.

If preference is given to an L-shaped profile, then it must be installed last. If we are talking about an F-shaped corner, then it needs to be glued only to the end of the PVC panel. Thus, you can hide an uneven cut or other minor defects. To facilitate the work, the profile was specially supplemented with a special jumper.

Scope of aluminum corners for slopes

On the inside and external structure in most cases, it is necessary to additionally install an overlay that has increased rigidity. In this case, the craftsmen offer their customers to buy materials made of aluminum.

The presented design has the form of a narrow long corner, with a shelf width of 2.5 centimeters. There are several varieties of such a profile - it is decorative and perforated.

How to choose the right decorative corner for slopes?

To decorate a room or any other room, you need to carefully finish the decoration. window openings. In this case internal design will look harmonious and complete.

To do this, you need to carefully and carefully select decorative corners for slopes, which are designed to decorate the inner surface of the opening.

The best option for such purposes is plastic, aluminum, brass and polymer structures. Experts have developed several good advice to help you choose the right decorative elements for the window and make no mistake with the choice.

Profiles that have a shiny, perfectly smooth and matte surface look the most attractive and aesthetically pleasing. They are sure to fit any room or space. But it is worth noting that they will not be in harmony with classic style. This includes rococo, empire, baroque and well-known country design.

Aluminum structures look most attractive in a room where the owners prefer to stick to a minimalist style. Most best options- this is modern, hi-tech or gothic interior.

Expensive brass can easily fit into general interior absolutely any room or room. Many people consider this option the most optimal for registration. In an alloy of copper and zinc, manufacturers can add components such as lead, aluminum, nickel, and many other additives.

The final type of coating may vary depending on the composition of the brass. Among the large and varied selection are blackened, silver or gold-plated options.

How to properly install the corners on the window slopes?

After completing the sheathing of the internal surfaces of the opening, it is worth starting to ennoble general design. For these purposes, decorative corners for slopes are ideal. At the time of purchase, each person should carefully check them for defects. The profile must be perfectly flat and have symmetrical sides.

• Before installing plastic, aluminum or brass, it is necessary to carefully align the narrow strips of the wall around the entire perimeter. To do this, remove all existing screws from the curtain rod and clean possible sagging from silicone or plaster;
• Next, a corner is taken and the desired segment is measured. It is glued to the top of the opening. But all ends must necessarily protrude from each side;
• All joints are trimmed at an angle of 45 degrees;
• At the very least, the lower part of the structure is cut off before installing the window sill;
• The internal floor profiles are sawn off at 90 degrees.

Watch the video:

All work must be carried out in the correct geometry and accurately carry out all the drawings. For these purposes, experts recommend using a carpentry miter box.

The curvature of walls and corners is typical for rooms in apartments and houses built both in Soviet times and in new buildings. Corner alignment is a must. Otherwise, the pattern on the wallpaper will inevitably bend, and for ceramic tiles you will need to use up a decent amount of glue, and even then positive result not guaranteed. The article will discuss how to display corners when plastering.

Not even corners will not allow furniture to stand up perfectly or household appliances- all deviations will become visible even to the naked eye. In addition, paintings, family photographs or panels cannot be placed near the corner - they will “emphasize” the error of wall joints in the best possible way. There are 2 ways to solve the problem, where each of them has both advantages and disadvantages:

• drywall sheets. This method is applicable if the corners have significant irregularities. Sheets are mounted on a frame, which can correct a curvature equal to 0.5 meters. Although after installation you will have to putty the corners, it will be much easier to do this. However, leveling technology takes away precious centimeters, and even meters of living space;

• plastering work. This method is labor intensive, it is advisable for small flaws. Despite the rather messy process, plastering makes it possible to align exactly in the corners with relatively smooth walls, while preserving the usable area as much as possible.

Leveling corners with plaster

• For finishing work, a gypsum-based mixture is used. This material is easy to use, subject to technology, it will show its strength and last for many years. The thickness of the mortar on the walls can be about 50 mm, for single recesses - up to 70 mm. For ceilings, this figure should not exceed 30 mm.
• The plaster is applied to brick, concrete, gypsum, sand-cement surfaces. The solution is not intended for wooden bases, these materials simply do not adhere to each other.
• The surface is treated with impregnations and other compounds to prevent the formation and development of fungus and mold. Primer improves adhesion of the surface with the components of the gypsum mortar.
• When preparing the mixture, follow the manufacturer's instructions. The ratio of water and powder is indicated on each package. It is important to observe the proportion of water and dry mixture, if you add a little liquid, then the solution will be difficult to apply and there is a high probability that the surface will crack after drying. Too much water will not allow you to fill the voids and gain the mortar the required strength.

• It is not recommended to use process water, it must be devoid of various impurities.
• Due to the density, it is recommended to mix the solution for 2-3 minutes using a mixer nozzle inserted into a drill or perforator.
• It is not necessary to add additional plasticizers or additives to the mixture. All the necessary components are present in the powder.
• The finished solution should be used within 25-30 minutes. Therefore, it is stirred in small portions. The dried solution should not be tried to be re-diluted with water, this will lead to a deterioration in quality.
• Sometimes small depressions form on the surfaces. If you plan to glue ceramic tiles, then it is not necessary to correct errors. For painting or wallpapering, the surface is brought to an ideal state.

Preliminary work

• The base is cleaned of weakly adhering previous coating. A rule is applied to the corner vertically and horizontally, and the longer it is (1-2 m), the more accurate the result will be. Bumps and bulges are knocked down with a chisel, what could not be removed will serve as a kind of reference point for alignment.

• If there are single recesses, then they must be filled with a mixture and wait for complete drying (at least two days). Next, the entire surface is plastered. Applying a thick layer of the mixture at once is not recommended; it is better to work in several stages.

Tool and consumables:

• long level, plastering rule;
• straight and angled spatula;
• sandpaper, trowel;
• gypsum mix, countershultz (perforated corner).

How to level corners with plaster

From curvature internal joints walls can be disposed of using counter-shults with reinforcing mesh or beacons. The first method is suitable for small irregularities, and the installation of beacons is relevant for significant flaws. External corners are aligned with a counter-shoulder or a perfectly flat rail.

Plastering interior corners

Do-it-yourself plastering of corners with lighthouses

• The method with beacons is applicable if the walls are aligned along with the joint. In this case, smooth metal or wooden slats fastened to the surface with screws or dowels, depending on the material. The step between the guides should be equal to the length of the rule. The installation of the lighthouse in the corner is carried out 5-7 cm from the junction of the walls.

• With the help of a plumb line, risks are placed on the floor and ceiling at the location of the rail. When fixing, the accuracy of installation is checked both vertically and horizontally. Wedges are placed as needed.
• The application of the plaster mixture is carried out first on one side. The solution is filled with an opening between the beacons and evenly distributed by the rule. After the layer is completely dry, you can move on to the adjacent wall.
• When leveling, it is important to ensure that a large amount of gypsum mixture does not accumulate in the corner. If this happens, then after drying, the excess is carefully removed with a spatula.
• An angle spatula is used to form the corner, which facilitates the work. In the process, it must be regularly moistened with water. When using a straight spatula, the movements should be jerky with a direction from the corner.
• After thorough drying, the beacons are dismantled. The resulting recesses are puttied with the same material.

Corner plastering with profile corner

• Perforated corner method with reinforced mesh at the edges is optimal with pre-aligned walls. The contrashultz is cut off according to the length of the joint with metal shears.

• The aluminum product is quite soft, therefore, when cutting, no effort should be made so as not to violate the geometry specified by the manufacturer. A small amount of gypsum mixture is applied with a flat spatula directly to the wall joint.
• A segment of the counter-shoulder is applied to the corner and slightly pressed down with a long rule. This must be done very carefully due to its slight deformation. Excess mortar that has come through the holes is removed with a spatula (from the corner to the side, thus smoothing the mesh).
• After drying, the surface is sanded. If necessary, a final leveling is carried out, applying gypsum mixture thin layer. For convenience, you can use an angled spatula.

Plastering the corners of the walls with sickle

• Another option for internal corners the use of a wide sickle can serve. This method is relevant if it is not planned to carry out large-scale work on all surfaces, that is, there is only one task - to give the joint an angle of 90º.

• Here you need reinforcing tape, wooden block with a right angle 40-60 cm long and directly a gypsum mixture.
• Apply the solution in a small amount to the junction of the walls, capturing 10 cm of the adjacent surfaces.
• Attach the edge of the sickle to the top of the corner, holding the tape in given point, the roll is untwisted for the entire width of the arms. It is important to provide for the position of the reinforcing material in the lower part of the joint; it is not uncommon for the sickle to “go off course”.
• Through pressing movements with a bar, the joint is shaped right angle. The jammed tape is leveled with a spatula, and the excess mixture is smoothed out with movements from the corner and reduced to nothing. You can use an angled spatula periodically soaked in water.
• Be careful not to change the position of the wet tape. But at the same time, you can’t wait until the putty dries, in which case the adjustment will become impossible.

Plastering of external corners

slopes and outside corners You can bring it to an ideal state in 2 ways: using an aluminum perforated profile and without it.

Alignment without countershoulder

• With this method, protrusions are also knocked down and large gaps and other depressions are filled.
• On the adjacent side of the corner, an absolutely flat board or plank wrapped with adhesive tape is mounted. Its fasteners are made to the ceiling and floor, if you choose the optimal length, you can insert it in the form of spacers.
• The protrusion of the plank from behind the corner should be equal to the thickness of the plaster layer.
• The mixture is applied to the surface and distributed by means of a rule. Movement should go to the corner with a slight downward slope.
• After drying, the previous step can be repeated.
• After waiting at least two days, the board is carefully dismantled and applied to the plastered corner. All manipulations are carried out in the same sequence.
• The finished right angle is sanded with fine-grained sandpaper.
• You can also use two spatulas, but this method requires some preparation and hardness of the hand.

Angle for plastering with the use of a counter-shoulder

• The angular profile will protect the slopes from mechanical damage, accidental chips, give strength and help form a smooth vertical line. The calculation of the material is easy: for this, the length of all corners is measured, and the results are summarized. 10-20% for consumption is added to the final data.
• It should be noted that if, in addition to the corners, it is planned to level slopes, small ledges or niches, then you can significantly save on the purchase of a counter-shoulder. Manufacturers offer this consumable standard length- 3 m, and the height of the ceilings is usually 2.5-2.8 m, which means that 20-50 cm are used for trimming.
• The segments are just useful for forming corners on small areas. It is not recommended to use parts of the perforated corner for long lengths, this threatens to cause cracks.

• The prepared mixture is applied to the working area (on both sides of the adjacent walls).
• The corner of the required length is attached to the treated area with pressing movements. For this stage, it is desirable to use a rule that will not allow the counter-shoulder to deform from careless pressing.
• Excess gypsum mortar that has come through the holes is removed with a spatula.
• While the mixture has not hardened, the location of the corner is checked using a laser or level. If necessary, the position is corrected.
• Having achieved the desired result, the excess putty is removed both from the end face and adjacent sides of the profile.
• After complete drying, defects are eliminated with fine-grained sandpaper.
• Finishing leveling is carried out together with the application of the plaster mixture on the main surfaces (walls or ceiling).

Correct option

The simplest and cheapest way to level internal and external corners, as well as door and window openings, is plaster mix. Although this method is quite dirty, dusty and time consuming. However, for rooms of modest areas, such as a hallway, kitchen or bathroom, this is the best option.

A number of advantages of plastering include:

• application of the method to any type of surface, with the exception of the wooden base;
• high strength of the finished base;
• provides a wide opportunity for subsequent design: pasting walls with wallpaper, tiles, applying decorative plaster or paint.

Plastering corners video

So you have finished finishing the walls with drywall. But left alone important detail- corners. In this article, we will figure out how to make the corners of drywall walls even and how to fix the corner to drywall. And also which corners to use is better, easier and cheaper.

Types of corners and why they are needed

Perforated drywall corners not only allow you to beautifully seal the corner joint, but also give even greater structural strength, preventing even slight movements and vibrations from the plasterboard sheets.

On sale you can find 4 types of corners. There are perforated corners for right angles and even arched models. So:

• Perforated metal corner

This is the most famous and used model. The thin perforated metal construction has a rib to provide rigidity. But, despite this, the configuration of the corner is often violated during transportation, which makes it impossible to use it to create perfectly even corners. Therefore, the store always needs to check their quality.

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• Plastic corners

The material is the main difference from the previous version. This results in low strength and low resistance to shape change. Advantages - not afraid of water and moisture, corrosion is not terrible. A big plus is the low price.

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• arched corners

Everything is clear from the name - it has the ability to bend well. This is the main advantage over other types. The material from which it is made - flexible plastic - gives it such an opportunity.

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• Mesh corners

They are usually used where it is necessary to protect the corner from mechanical damage and give additional rigidity. Often such places are the outer corners of buildings. But we use them in the apartment. This will be useful if the corners are rather uneven and of dubious strength.

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We examined the main corners of drywall, which is better - you decide. You should choose based on where the perforated corner will be installed on drywall and what goal will be pursued: will this be a significant strengthening of the corner, or simply design idea. Also pay attention to the price.

Important: if you just need to fasten the sheets at an angle of 90 degrees, you need not a corner, but a connector. This frame element does not apply to corners.

How to attach a perforated corner to drywall?

For work, we need some tools and materials:

• The corner itself
• Putty. It is she who will ensure reliable fastening of the corner to drywall ( the best composition for this job - Vetonit, it is reliable and easy to use)
• A primer with which we will strengthen the GKL sheets, and then we will carry out the final processing
• Scissors for working with metal (if you are going to fix not a plastic corner on drywall, but a metal one)
• Brush for priming surfaces
• Two spatulas: one wide, the other narrow (wide is more convenient to smooth out irregularities on the surface, and narrow to apply the composition and distribute it)
• Bar for grinding. It will help to make perfectly even corners, removing all irregularities

Now let's figure out in detail how to fix the corner on drywall:

1. We carry out the primer of each sheet of the corner, drawing a strip of about 30 cm. After that, we take measurements in order to know how much the length of the corner is required. A distance of 20-30 mm to the floor can be left without a corner, since everything will be closed with a plinth anyway;
2. According to the results of measurements, we cut a corner. Making cuts, metal corner can be easily and neatly broken;
3. With a narrow spatula, apply putty to the joint itself. The layer thickness is small (about 3-4 mm);
4. We press the corner so that the putty penetrates through the perforation outward;
5. Apply a thicker layer of putty on top;
6. We level everything with a wide spatula and remove excesses, while holding the tool at an angle to the sheet and pressing it a little;
7. We grind the corner with a bar;
8. Then we apply a second coat of primer. The width of the strips should be 20-30 cm. This method allows you to remove a sharp transition between the layer and the plasterboard wall;
9. Now we finally align the angle: first with a spatula, and then, already on dry putty, with a bar;
10. Before plastering the rest of the wall, apply an additional coat of primer to the joint.