How to install a perforated corner with your own hands. Installation of perforated corners How to install a perforated corner

Says expert builder Viktor Petrovich:

Here we are in the kitchen. Now we will install perforated plastic, PVC corners. To begin with, we clean everything here so that there are no influxes, remove dust, primer, put corners and plaster the slope.

Now it will be necessary to quietly remove everything, clean it. Here we have cleaned the slopes. Now we will prime the slopes with a primer: use the Aquastop concentrate primer, dilute it with water and apply the maklovitsa. It is inconvenient to prime with a roller here, since the slope is small, so we take a maklovitsa or a brush.

For those who have not watched the previous videos, I will explain that this niche is for the TV, that is, here we will mount the TV. Here we will have two sockets: two of them will be low current and two forces, that is, analog twisted pair and 220 sockets.

Here we will now install the perforated corners, according to the laser level. Here you can see the laser beam here: we have already set the laser, and, accordingly, we will need to plaster the slopes. Now we take and stir the plaster solution using Volma Layer. This is how the solution is applied to the perforated corner.

Yes, our primer has already dried up, on the slopes, I mean. And now, along the line of the laser level, the laser beam, corners are being determined. Here, you can see that on the stiffening rib at the outer corner of the corner you can see the red beam of the laser level - this indicates that the corner is set along the laser beam.

The excess is removed with a spatula. Once again, you will need to check, look, squeeze somewhere, press. Well, here, in fact, the corner is exposed. The edge of the corner is coated in the same way, and on top we will still have putty glued on. Before applying the plaster layer when installing the corners, be sure to prime.

Now we will install a perforated plastic corner on the upper slope of the niche, where we have a wooden jumper. We will freeze it now and then, when the plaster mix rises and dries, we will screw this plastic corner from below with self-tapping screws so that it does not fall off from us.

Why do we install plastic perforated corners in a niche? First, aesthetics. Secondly, it will be even, beautiful. Thirdly, it will be the protection of the corner, that is, so that when the TV is mounted, the corner is not demolished, not cut off, so that there are no chips on the corners. That's what it's installed for.

So we set laser level so that the beam as close as possible, as close as possible to the slope. Here we have installed perforated corners on the level on both sides and on top of the slopes. You ask why we did not install the fourth corner from the bottom? I'll tell you in the next video why we didn't install it.

Below we will tell you how to properly install a metal corner on a vertical wall corner, which is useful for those who are used to working at home themselves, without calling a master finisher for every trifle (I would go again).

The need to install a metal perforated corner is not due to the whim of the owners, but to the fact that this element allows:

- Faster and more high precision straighten the corner of the wall
- Additionally strengthen the corner, protecting it from accidental mechanical damage.

What is needed for installation

To perform the installation, it is not necessary to prepare so much material and tools. You will need:

- Gypsum-polymer mixture Rotband,
– Level (from 1 meter),
- Several metal spatulas,
- Plastic container for kneading.

Corner installation

Many are accustomed to believing that the main thing in the process of installing a corner is the accuracy of its vertical installation, however, it is necessary to control the accuracy of the work along the plane of the adjacent walls (photo 3), because otherwise pits or mounds will appear on the wall.

The Rotband mixture is kneaded to an average consistency (first, water is poured into the container, then the mixture is poured) and applied to the base outer corner with a spatula (8-12 cm) after 10-15 cm. The corner is applied to the corner without pressure, then the level is taken into the hands and the corner is corrected along the vertical and lateral planes.

It is important not to immediately try to completely align it to one vector, as there will be no margin for editing on other planes. Slightly trim the corner vertically, then press it with a level along the wall line, then precisely bring out the vertical. Deviations should not exceed 2 mm per running meter, but this is the maximum full list permissible deviations (quality indicators) .

Leave the leveled corner for fixation (20-40 minutes), then with the rest of the mixture (Rotband does not set for an hour), bring its side faces to zero. When removing the sidewalls, use a wide metal spatula, which should go from bottom to top, so you will avoid the appearance of holes in the saddle of the outer corner, and the corner itself will provide vertical accuracy (its outer edge will act as a guide beacon).

After a day, the corner can be puttied in one or two layers, depending on the type of its further finishing (1 layer for wallpaper, 2 layers for painting).

Questions and answers

Is it possible to fix the paint corner when plastering?

Theoretically, it is possible, but there are several “buts”. Firstly, it is a more time-consuming process, especially when working with classic lime-sand plaster. Secondly, the paint corner will not adhere well to plaster mixture, since its perforation is made for putty (a mesh goes under the plaster).

Is it necessary to buy corners with reinforcing mesh on the sides?

No, not necessarily, but due to the mesh, the corner is more securely held on the corner and it is difficult to knock it down even with accidental physical impact.

The most important indicator of quality when installing beacons is the accuracy of their vertical installation?

No, the metal corner must be precisely fixed not only vertically. Pay attention to the second photo - the angle should be even along the wall, often for this you have to either shoot down upper part corner, or run the corner above the level of the wall and then reduce the irregularities with plaster.

Corner for drywall 25x25 mm galvanized - one of the types of material that is used to level parts of the walls. As you know, drywall is popular in construction, it is easy to work with. However, prefabricated ones have problem areas - corners, which are most often subject to mechanical stress. This is where they come to the rescue different kinds existing corners.

Existing species drywall corners

They perform the protective function of parts of the walls and will help to build even corners. Knowing their classification, you can choose a suitable instance.

The most common product options are:

Metal perforated corner

This view is a thin sample from a profile with perforation and a rigid edge along the edge. Basically, there are 2 types of similar corners for drywall:

straight;
arched.

These representatives have many subspecies. The corners are not glued, they are practically “fitted” onto the structure and fixed with putty or.

The straight perforated corner is used for processing the inside and outside corners.

It is a V-shaped profile with many holes - perforations.

Variants of metal perforated corner for drywall

Actually, with their help, a high-quality connection with the processed corners takes place, and the top, located at the inner corners - inside, and at the outer corners - outside, is a guide for the spatula. Excess air also escapes through the holes. Straight punch angles are plastic, aluminum, galvanized. The latter is tougher than others, and the wide one can generally be used as a plaster beacon.

plastic corner

This sample is more resistant to moisture than from a profile, but resistance to mechanical damage below. Of the advantages, one can note low price and no material corrosion. There is also a type of plastic corner, for example, AquaBead, which has a special paper with applied glue. Putty for fixing is not required here, it is enough to moisten the adhesive surface with water and simply glue the corner to the right place.

Arched

Apply various Decoration Materials, such as plaster, wallpaper, panels and others. But in order to preserve the transition points between the planes, an arched corner is used, which has great potential. Arched corners are divided into the following types:

Installed under plaster, perforated. They have separate petals on one side of the corner, allowing you to place a sufficient strip on any arched bend. There are plastic and from the profile;
Decorative, gluing of which occurs on the plaster.

Mesh Products

Similar elements are used in places that require the strengthening of corners and protection from damage. Plaster mesh corners are designed for internal and external corners. They can be either plastic or metal. The choice will be influenced by the shape and material of the plane for finishing.

Mounting corners on drywall using corners

When starting to install a corner on drywall, you need to have tools and material on hand.

Required material

the selected type of corner will need to be bought with some margin;
by using ;
it is best to buy Vetonit putty, which is of high quality.

Tools

metal scissors will help to correctly and quickly cut the necessary parts;
brush, which is required for applying the primer;
wide and narrow spatulas will be needed for;
the grinding block will remove all the irregularities on the plane, while the angle will be perfectly even.

This is how the mounted corners on drywall look like

When starting installation, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with the sequence of aligning the corners with putty so as not to damage this fragile material.

Stages of work

First, the plane must be thoroughly cleaned and treated with a primer. You need to proceed to the next stage only after it has completely dried.
Measurements are taken, and the desired length of the corners is cut off. They are applied to drywall as a fitting.
For further work you will need non-woven tape, serpentine mesh - for internal corners, one of the types of perforated corners: plastic, adhesive, rounded or made of metal profile or on paper.
Before you make a choice. For the formation of internal and external corners, it is better to buy dry gypsum mixture. It has a reasonable price good quality and will be able to securely fasten the elements to the structure.
Putty is prepared in compliance with all stages: poured, poured, stirred, allowed to settle, kneaded again.
When working with external corners, you need to remember that they are most often exposed to mechanical impact, it is better to fix metal samples, in some cases having a rounded shape.
Check the evenness of the end.
Putty is applied to the treated area with smooth movements. Not allowing the composition to dry out, you need to fix the corner with pressure, check the accuracy with a level, if necessary, you can knock with a rubber mallet.
Sometimes the corner is attached to the drywall with a stapler or glued with glue, and then covered with putty.
Another layer of the mixture is applied to the installed element and now it is aligned with the general plane of the wall.
Applying the second coat of putty
After thorough drying, the sloping corner is polished.
Installing the corners inside the structure looks similar, even a little easier. The adjacent sides, the gap between the corners are carefully smeared with a spatula, and the excess mixture is removed. On a dried polished surface having the desired shape. You can buy and, only put it on raw putty.
check the fastening on the drywall of the corner, then with the help of the next layer hide the irregularities.
After thorough drying, the surface is finished sandpaper or a polished bar, thus forming a perfect angle.
To facilitate the leveling process, so-called beacons are used, attached to the surface with a plaster solution, here you can do without fasteners.
Separately, I would like to mention a semicircular plastic corner used in rooms with the maximum possible impact on the corners. It is made of flexible plastic and has no sharp corner, but semicircular. Its price is quite acceptable, and its durability is beyond doubt. It differs in some features at the installation stage, namely, cutting the end by 1.5-2 cm with an angle of 45 ͦ. A corner is pressed into the applied initial putty, fixed with a stapler, the edges are processed with a mixture.

The video of arranging the corners will help you see how the drywall parts are reinforced, and will also allow you to select and buy the necessary elements.

Finishing the inner and outer corners will not seem difficult with right approach and necessary training. The main thing is that during installation they should be requiring minimal finishing.

In this material, we will consider the process of installing a perforated corner. In particular, we will deal with the questions: how to fix the corner, how to align it, how to finish. For maximum clarity, the article is supplemented with relevant photographs and videos.

First of all, a few words about what is required to complete the work. So, in addition to the perforated corner, we need the following materials and tools:

spatula (50 mm);
spatula (150 mm);
nozzle mixer (for a drill);
maklovitsa (wide brush);
building level;
deep penetration primer;
dry gypsum putty ("start").

Regarding the perforated corner. In this case, it all depends on the corner, the finishing of which you will be engaged in. If work is underway to repair the outer corner, in the room where there is most likely its damage, it is best to use a plastic corner. Such a room, for example, is a corridor.

Of course, the use of a plastic corner is not mandatory requirement rather than a recommendation. For finishing, you can equally successfully use both metal and plastic corners. Simply, plastic, in comparison with metal, is more advantageous in terms of durability: they do not crumple in the event of fairly strong blows.

Preparatory work

We figured out the tools and the type of corners, you can proceed to the preparatory process. It comes down to priming the repaired plane and preparing a gypsum mortar.

First of all, we prepare a solution from the starting gypsum putty. By the way, for gluing a paint corner, you can use not only the starting one, but also finishing putty. You can also use various cementitious adhesives, such as adhesive for laying ceramic tiles.

The solution is prepared as follows: we collect a certain amount of water in a clean container, add the dry mixture to it and stir everything with a mixer. Important: the solution for installing a perforated corner should be quite thick - much thicker than, for example, for puttying walls or for gluing a ceiling foam tiles(pasting the ceiling with tiles).

So, the mixture is ready, you can proceed to the primer. Here everything is simple and fast: with the help of a maklovitsa, we apply the primer on the surface to be treated, smearing it evenly. There is no point in priming several times - once is enough.

Installation of the perforated corner and its alignment

With a small spatula, we apply a small amount of putty mortar to a larger spatula and with its help we transfer our glue directly to the corner being repaired. We perform this work along the entire height of the corner.

Now we lean the perforated corner and gently “press” it. By pressing / pulling certain sections of the corner “by eye”, we align its verticality.

Next, we take the building level and with its help we check the evenness of the installation of the paint corner. If necessary, carefully, so as not to damage the corner, change its position. Thus, we achieve a perfectly even angle.

At the end, we putty a corner on one side and the other. Most convenient to do this work after the putty, through which our corner is held, has completely dried. You can do this directly during the installation process, the main thing is to do everything as carefully as possible so as not to disturb the correct verticality of the corner.

So that when leveling, the junction of the planes of the walls has correct design, craftsmen often use various plaster corners. Yes, at first glance, this detail may seem quite simple to you - it is not so easy to use it. If you decide to do this, you must follow a number of rules.

This is what we will talk about in more detail in this article. Let's consider how a plaster corner is chosen, how to use it correctly.

Types of corners

It is not difficult to guess that the plaster corner today is represented by a variety different types. Now let's take a closer look at.

metal models

When a finisher gets down to work, he needs to have on hand required number corner pads. And given that today retail chains the range of such products is quite wide, it is better to decide on the model in advance - so that later there are no unpleasant surprises.

Linings for puttying and plastering on corners, depending on the material, are usually divided into plastic and metal. Consider each of the product groups, but first - let's deal with the most popular.

Metal corners for plaster can be made of different metals:

Made of galvanized steel - these products are highly durable, at the same time they weigh quite a lot (when compared with analogues). Moreover, it is likely that this corner will rust over time - especially in those areas where the plaster layer becomes thinner. The metal there is directly exposed to moisture (from the atmosphere)
Made of aluminum - such products are very durable. They are practically not afraid of corrosion, they are very light. But there is one “but” - the mechanical parameters of this lining will be an order of magnitude worse than those of alternative options. It's just that aluminum is a soft metal - and everyone knows about it.

To prevent corrosion of the galvanized steel overlay over time, the product must be handled very carefully during installation. Try not to damage the galvanization - when mounting the corner on the wall. And it is better to do pruning with scissors for metal (it is better to refuse the grinder here).

Metal corners may vary in shape:

Usually simple corners are recognized as the most popular - that is, a strip of metal bent at ninety degrees. The thickness of such a product is only 0.4 mm. Perforation is applied to the sides of such an overlay - this is done so that the mass of the product becomes even smaller. And adhesion to the plaster mortar due to such actions significantly increases;
A stucco corner with a mesh looks a little different. Such models are selected when wet plastering is performed. The corner itself in this situation is equipped with a narrow overlay - a steel mesh is attached to its edges, the width of which is a couple of cm.

Corner plaster perforated is ideal for fixing the plane. At the same time, your finish becomes more durable - this is a fact.

Today on the market you can also choose for yourself models of corners that are combined. In this situation, aluminum or steel corner equipped with a special polymer mesh(Fiberglass is especially popular). Such products have all the advantages of both plastic and metal models plaster corners;
It is also nice that the cost of combined plaster overlays is slightly higher - but they will also serve you longer;
The main difficulty in working with metal overlays is that such a material is susceptible to corrosion - especially due to the effects of alkalis and acids. That is why many craftsmen advise installing them only if the finish is made with latex, acrylic or plaster.

plastic models

Consider those options which are the most used today:

Linings are standard - this element is identical in design metal corner. But instead of steel or aluminum, plastic is chosen for production - enough High Quality. Such linings are not afraid of corrosion, so if plastering of rooms where the level of humidity is high is carried out, they should definitely be used;
The main disadvantage of a standard plastic corner is that the thickness of the material is quite large. At the same time, the plaster is not usually applied in a thick layer, it rarely happens that the layer is more than 3 mm. And this is quite enough to disguise a plastic product;
Arched corners for plaster are used in situations where it is necessary to form a joint of planes on surfaces that are curvilinear. One side of this corner is not made solid - it is segmented. Due to this, the product can always be bent, while the bending radius will be arbitrary;
In addition, you can easily find mesh corners for plastic plaster. The mesh in this case is an overlay element. These corners are used in order to be embedded in a thick plaster layer. The reliability of fixation at the same time increases many times, because the corner will be held not only on the base, but also due to the high adhesion of the mesh part and the solution;
It should be noted the model, which is not used very often. We are talking about a universal mesh corner for plaster. This is a thin strip of plastic (or even tape) - a strong mesh is enough. You can bend it to any angle you want. These overlays are used in order to form non-right angles - that is, those that are less or more than ninety degrees.

Quite often, this model is used when finishing internal joint walls. If it were not for such an element, the work here would have to be done without an overlay at all - which is not recommended.

The main advantage of plastic plaster corners is that they are chemically inert. Often such products are laid directly into (which, moreover, has an alkaline reaction). And in general, corrosion is not terrible for polymers - in many ways this makes them very popular (even if we take into account the low level of strength compared to metal products).

How to use corner pads - we understand

Now let's talk about how to properly apply plaster corners (overlays). However, first things first.

Preparing to finish the corner

In order for a plaster corner made of metal or plastic to fully cope with its function (protect the joint of planes from possible damage) - you need to install it correctly.

In fact, this task is not particularly difficult. But there are certain things to pay attention to.:

First of all, there must be a main wall under the corner plate. To do this, you need to check the quality of the surface - if necessary, all loosened elements are removed;
Then, all walls are primed and dust-free - including the corner. First, dust is removed, then a primer is applied. This must be done in any situation - so that the plaster layer has good adhesion to the base;
In the case when the wall joint is severely damaged, before installing the plaster corner, alignment is carried out - this will help plaster mortar. Of course, the work time will increase due to this approach, and the finishing will take longer - but it is better to “lose” a couple of days in this way than to get a plane at an angle;
Further, plaster beacons are placed on the plane. It is necessary to focus directly on them when leveling steel or aluminum corners.

Only when all the work aimed at preparation has been completed, it is possible to proceed with the installation of the plaster lining.

We fix the corner

This is not to say that the corner on the wall is somehow difficult to install. Consider a very simple instruction:

Small slides of the solution are superimposed on the surface. 300 mm - this is exactly the value of the optimal step;
The overlay is cut to size - a knife will help you with this (if you work with plastic models). If the corner is made of metal (aluminum or steel), use metal scissors. From application circular saw it is better to refrain - corrosion processes are then necessarily activated where there was heating;
The corner is installed on the wall, it is pressed into the mortar so that the plaster penetrates the perforation. If there are mesh linings at the edges, they should be immersed in the leveling layer as deep as possible;
With the help of the level and the rule, they control the correct installation of the lining. If necessary, the position of the part is adjusted by smooth pressing.

Please note - if you have not laid enough mortar, the lining will have to be removed and a leveling compound added. The corner, in any case, must be set with the beacons on the same level. It is not necessary to “bring out” the plane with one plaster.

If the finish layer is thin - the corner can also be mounted on mechanical fasteners.

But, at the same time:

The overlay is set at an angle, alignment is made along the plane and vertically;
For fasteners, holes are drilled with a perforator;
Plastic sleeves must be hammered into the holes obtained - they are fixed with locking stainless screws;
If your wall material allows, it is necessary to use not anchors, but self-tapping screws made of stainless steel;
Keep in mind: you should not use standardized fasteners here, as if they oxidize, rust marks will probably appear - either on your plaster, or even on the finish that will be applied on top of the plaster layer.

Plane joint grouting and leveling

As soon as the mortar on which the corner piece was installed hardens - can be taken for plastering.

Here everything is done like this:

As part of the first stage, the wall is leveled - at the same time, they do not reach the corner by about 400 mm;
Then not so far from installed corner a solution is placed - and by means of the rule it is smoothed out: so all the excess will be removed;
The above operations are repeated, but this time it is no longer a rule that is used, but a wide spatula or trowel;
The connecting planes are aligned - the master must make sure that during this work the plastic or metal is not exposed;
To decorate the inner corner, you can use a special spatula. Its blade has a special shape - so both surfaces can be brought out very high quality: a regular recess will be formed between them.

Watch the video on how to fix the plaster corners. Surely, this lesson will help you gather your thoughts before work and understand how and what needs to be done here.

Now we must wait until the plaster dries - the outer layer must undergo polymerization. And then they take up the grout.

Everything looks like this:

The corner is first overwritten on one side, then on the other;
The master, when moving the grater, must ensure that it does not remove material from the edge - after all, in this situation, the occurrence of chips is not ruled out. You don't have to allow it;
A grater with a sponge is grouted inner corner. If there is no putty in the plans, the plaster can be corrected with ordinary sandpaper.

Results

The use of corner overlays for plastering walls today significantly facilitates the work of those owners who want to carry out repairs in an apartment or house on their own - without involving professional teams.

Yes, if you have little experience (or none at all), it’s not so easy to make a corner with high quality, so you definitely don’t need to neglect various auxiliary devices. Act - and everything will definitely work out, experience will come with time and everything will work out perfectly - right the first time!