Primer for walls: types, classification, tips for choosing!
If you approach the matter thoroughly, then you should certainly know from the outset that before applying any final coating, the walls must be coated with a primer. For a person who understands little in the construction business, it may seem that this procedure is largely superfluous - why waste time and effort if paint, wallpaper or tile can easily stick to a smooth surface anyway? Indeed, the logic is clear, but the primer allows you to solve at least 3 problems:
- reduce consumption adhesive compositions or paints;
- improve adhesion (adhesion);
- prevent mold formation.
Repair of apartments must certainly include the stage of priming. If you want the work to be carried out in good faith, it is necessary to control the hired workers so that they do not miss this operation and perform it with all care. The cost of the work itself for different performers can vary widely, but if you take specific numbers, then on average the primer of the wall is calculated at the rate of 30 rubles. behind square meter. Well, since in addition to the primer, putty, wallpapering or painting is also required, then in the end the amount is not very small. Of course, if you have the necessary money, but there is absolutely no time and desire to carry out all the work on your own, then outside help can be a good solution to the situation.
Advice: when choosing a primer, pay attention to the manufacturer, price and specifications. The deeper the level of soil penetration into the base, the better it is for any purpose.
Modern manufacturers offer a huge amount of primer mixtures. Choose necessary types primers for concrete, plaster, putty is not always easy. For this purpose, it is necessary, first of all, to know the varieties. It is impossible to use one type of primer for both paint and wallpaper.
Types and classification of primer
Depending on the field of application, the types of primers for walls and ceilings are divided into the following groups:
- Alkyd: apply only for wooden surfaces and metal structures;
- Acrylic: have universal properties, respectively, suitable for different surfaces. Primers from this group penetrate 1 cm deep. This property allows the use of acrylic primers for deep impregnation of the base;
- Aluminum: used only for wood. With their help, the wood is completely isolated from moisture, thereby minimizing the occurrence of such unpleasant phenomena as mold or fungus;
- Polyvinyl acetate: apply only when using paint special composition for priming concrete, wood, metal, plaster;
- silicate: this type is processed decorative plaster and silicone brick;
- Shellac: helps to prevent the release of resin by the tree, respectively, it is used as a type of primer for ceilings and walls;
- Epoxy: applicable as a deep impregnation of metal and concrete surfaces. Their main advantage is corrosion protection and sufficient strong adhesion.
Today on the market building materials you can find a large abundance of primers, which are classified:
- on the treated surface (brick, metal, concrete, wood, gypsum);
- for waterproofing properties. For bath and others wet rooms compositions are required that form a dense moisture-proof film;
- according to the features of further finishing. For example, primers for painting and laying tiles are quite different from each other;
- by functions. Primers are primary and final, the task of which is to improve the quality of adhesion of the final finish and cover the wall or ceiling.
Of course, when starting to repair an apartment, it is necessary at the very beginning to clearly define what kind of wallpaper you want to stick, and what type of paint should be used to change the look of the room. This must be done for the simple reason that, depending on the final finish, the primer itself may have different basis: mineral, acrylic, alkyd and the like. In addition, film-forming compounds are also different: they are adhesive, bituminous, oily and resinous. And, of course, you should not ignore the fact that the primer may contain drying accelerators and pigments.
Advice: You can buy primer-paint at any store. You can achieve the desired color by adding a dye to the soil. For example, after priming, the wall is planned to be painted in blue color. Add blue dye and the first coat of paint is ready.
Among other things, primers can be universal and specialized. In particular, mineral compositions designed for processing brick, concrete, gas silicate or plaster. The most popular among builders are universal primers, which are based on acrylic copolymers. These formulations can be applied to regular concrete or plaster, and on wood and other synthetic materials. After an acrylic primer, alkyd, latex or single base paints can be applied on top.
Often, car owners save on body painting materials, thereby violating the car painting technology. Are there consequences for such savings? Why do these kinds of car repairs flourish?
Without a primer - stupid, but "economical". Let's take a deep look at this matter.
Of course, few people want to overpay, even if the quality of car repairs depends on it. Getting into an accident, most drivers stop appreciating their car, especially if the traffic accident happened not for the first time. They are not looking for the best the best craftsmen, who repair cars with high quality, and amateurs, whose services are as cheap as possible.
However, the economy takes by the throat and forces the average driver to delve into the technology of painting. After this action, he is struck by the idea that it is possible to paint the car without primer and save 15-20% of the money on this. Not all masters go for such a trick, because they know how it ends. Of course, it is possible to paint a car without a primer, but they go for this option if the car is being prepared for sale.
If you paint a car without a primer, the paint will begin to flake off after six months, or even earlier. Such painting is ordered by car dealers. And if you consider that 40% of cars in the secondary market are sold from the hands of resellers, then it immediately becomes clear why poor-quality paintwork thrives.
On a note
No one can determine whether there is a primer under the paint or at least a primer-putty. Yes, and with "normal painting" the car will shine and shine like new. Alas, the buyer in the secondary market takes a pig in a poke.
You can paint a car without a primer if you send it on the “last journey”. If you still want to ride it, then you should do everything as it tells you. And the more expensive they are, the longer they will last on your car. Low-quality materials are enough for 3-4 years, while medium-priced and expensive materials are enough for 7-10 years.
Each car owner must value and respect his transport, as well as keep it in good condition so that the putty does not fall off on uneven city roads, injuring passers-by, and paint does not fly off. A car is not only a means of transportation, but also part of the image. Look after him no worse than your favorite clothes.
What is the function of a primer?
As already mentioned, the primer provides reliable adhesion of the paint to the metal. It acts as an intermediate layer, so to speak, a link. But this definition is only valid in in general terms, because there are different kinds primers with certain properties.
The main types of soil:
- filling;
- acid;
- epoxy.
There are also primers that combine various properties. They are called universal. Therefore, if you do not know what kind of primer you need to cover the car before painting, then choose a universal one. Acid and epoxy primers are special.
The fill primer contains bulk particles that form a porous layer with high adhesion on the body. This layer fills in all the small defects left after grinding (washing). The fill primer can also be sanded, but the risk is so small that it is not visible to the naked eye.
The stability of everything depends on how the filling soil will adhere to the metal. paintwork. The better the primer, the better the paint will hold. You should not save on a primer if the car is made for yourself. By and large, you should not do this, even when the car is being prepared for sale, because slipping a pig on a person who gives you a considerable amount of money is at least dishonorable.
Acid primers are not an alternative to fillers. The acids contained in them react with the metal, forming a sealed coating of oxides. This coating has anti-corrosion properties. If the body is cleaned to metal, then acid soil treatment will be very helpful.
Epoxy primers form an impervious layer on the surface. They preserve the underlying layers and at the same time have excellent adhesion. They can be applied both on metal and on primer or putty. Epoxy primers can isolate materials and separate layers.
Do I need a primer when painting a putty part?
Some masters, in order to save money, try to paint completely puttied parts without primer. But the savings are scanty, meanwhile, the quality of painting suffers. The fact is that it is unlikely that it will be possible to wash the putty so that after painting there is no risk. Usually they also put a developing layer to bring the polishing to the ideal.
The pore size of filling primers is much smaller than that of automotive fillers. Accordingly, the primer is washed much better. In addition, it fills with itself all the defects in the surface of the putty itself. Therefore, it is necessary to prime the putty.
If your car is painted without a primer
Cars with original paintwork are more expensive. And this is understandable, because the materials in this case the correct ones were used. However, this does not mean that parts painted in the garage will definitely peel off. There is just such a possibility.
On a note
In general, it is better not to buy cars, the quality of the paintwork of which is suspicious. It is extremely important to ring the entire body with a thickness gauge and determine which parts were painted and which were not. If the owner claims that the car has not been beaten, not painted, then it is doubly important to check this fact.
The primer layer is up to 50% of the thickness of the paintwork, provided that there is no putty under it. If the thickness gauge sometimes shows too thin a layer, then this is a reason to doubt the observance of the painting technology. However, if such a car has already been bought and the paint has begun to come off, and no soil is found under it, then there is only one way out - a complete repaint!
The answer to this question is ambiguous. On the one hand, it is possible, but this does not guarantee that the putty will hold well and for a long time, and not move out in layers. After all, initially a primer is needed for better adhesion of materials. In addition, the soil also protects against mold, and at present this is important, since mold has begun to appear in almost any home.
But there are a few nuances that allow you to do without a primer. For example, according to the recently plastered cement mortar, if dusty work was not carried out in the room, you can safely putty immediately.
Priming layer - a guarantee of longevity of repairs - myth or reality?
Modern sources say that it is impossible to do without a primer layer. It's better for you too, you don't have to redo the repair after a few years (and in some cases after a few months), and for a surface that won't absorb putty.
As you know, the primer and putty of the surface are the basis of all finishing work and an additional guarantee of the durability of the repair.
Regardless of what material the surface is made of, metal, concrete, wood or drywall, a primer layer is simply necessary for better adhesion to finishing materials.
You may not bother with priming work, but the quality of the finish will then be lower, and over time the plaster will begin to crumble, and the wallpaper will peel off. Agree, this is not what you expect from the repair.
The primer has been used in Ancient Greece, it was used in works of art to adhere the paint to the canvas. With its help, adhesion is created, that is, “sticking”.
The soil is used when it comes to high-quality expensive repairs; if you are planning a temporary finish, then you can do without a primer.
Putty works
Since the soil completely repeats all the surface irregularities, it is necessary to perform puttying before carrying out the main work. Regardless of what kind of putty you have, finishing or leveling, any one is easily sanded, allowing you to achieve maximum evenness and smoothness of the surface.
After priming, the putty simply has to adhere well to the surface and hold, as they say, for many years.
Perhaps the most universal material in construction, you can safely call the soil. It is used in preparatory work before painting, puttying, wallpapering and, moreover, on different surfaces: plaster, metal, wood and others. And indeed, at various works both inside and outside. It contributes to a stronger connection of the surface itself with paints and varnishes and other finishing materials, and also prevents corrosion and various delaminations from the treated surface. Therefore, in repair work, we can not do without a primer.
Perhaps you have started repairs in your apartment or house. It is clear that there is a lot of work to be done:, etc. In which finishing work do I need to use soil? Why is it important to do this processing? In this article, we will just consider these issues, finding out when you need to prime the walls or ceiling.
Before painting the walls
I must say that in the finishing work of rooms it is not always appropriate to use wallpaper. Sometimes the most effective and, moreover, inexpensive method may well be painting the walls. At first glance, this conversion method is not so complicated. As a rule, there are no special difficulties in performing this work. But still there are nuances that are worth knowing about. For example, do walls need to be primed before painting? It is necessary, but before priming the wall, in without fail, unusable plaster or paint.
Be sure to remove grease stains with a washcloth soaked in alkaline solution. Don't leave it on the wall dark spots mold. Remove it with a special cleaning solution or a stiff brush. Now you can prime.
A primer cannot be applied to a freshly plastered wall. This can be done after 4 weeks. After priming, the walls must pass a day and only then they can be painted.
The primer must be well mixed, and, if necessary, add there special agent recommended by the manufacturer. Usually the primer is applied in one coat. But it also happens that it is necessary, according to the recommendation indicated on the bank, to apply several layers. When walls are primed in more than one layer, this indicates that the surface of the wall has an absorbent capacity in its structure or in the room high humidity and you need to create an appropriate waterproof barrier (acrylic primer varnishes have this property).
The next layer must be applied after the previous one has completely dried.
The primer is applied either on plaster or already on a painted surface, and it doesn’t matter what kind of paint it was: water-based, acrylic, alkyd, oil or other. In this case, the primer is a binder for paint or plaster particles, which will invariably make the base on which we will apply the paint more uniform. It is worth noting that this also contributes to greater savings in the finishing agent, since the absorbent properties of the painted surface are significantly reduced.
Before wall plastering
Given the properties of the primer to bind the paintwork (or other materials) to the surface, it is quite logical to conclude that priming before puttying is not only necessary, but also important. If this is not done, then over time, all the putty on the wall may crack or peel off and crumble.
If there are several layers of putty, then after each application of the layer and drying of the putty material, it is necessary to prime the surface, and even after applying the finishing layer of putty, it must be allowed to dry, then sanded and then coated with a primer.
Please follow the advice of professionals, as well as the recommendations from this article, and then waste money, time and effort you can avoid. So is it necessary to prime the walls when applying any finishing material? Answer: it is necessary.
Video
Is it necessary to prime the walls before plastering? You will get the answer by watching this video:
Watch a video about original way priming walls.
One of necessary conditions for quality repair is an . Any surface must first be prepared for the upcoming finishing work.
Is it possible to do without a primer
The answer to the question is absolutely unambiguous. Regardless of the material base surface it is necessary to create conditions so that subsequent coatings are tightly fixed on it. It is for this purpose that a primer is used before puttying, which penetrates into the base and can significantly improve the quality of the subsequent finish.
If you really intend to worthy repair walls and ceilings, then they must be primed, otherwise you will have to repeat repair work in foreseeable future. The primer makes it possible:
- remove dust from the surface, which will later allow the plaster to lie in an even layer;
- strengthen and strengthen it so that in the future cracks, stains, stains do not appear on the walls;
- protect the walls of the room in which the repair is being carried out from the subsequent penetration of moisture into them.
How to prepare walls for primer
First of all, you need to remove wallpaper, paint or whitewash from the walls. For this purpose, use the following technologies:
- Washable wallpapers are very difficult to remove due to the waterproof film, so first deform their outer layer with metal brush or needle roller. Moisten the surface with water and wait until it is absorbed, after which the wallpaper will be easy to remove from the wall.
- Vinyl wallpaper, due to its structure, will not cause problems. Being wetted, their panels are easily removed.
- Paper wallpapers are the least durable, so they are not easy to remove. For this purpose, you can use special liquids or a steam generator, but if the associated costs are beyond your means, use the time-tested method. Perforate the wallpaper, moisten it with water using a sponge, let it soak in and separate the wallpaper with a spatula. In addition, you can use a steam iron to steam problem areas.
- Removing whitewash dry will cause you a lot of trouble. If the whitewash is applied in a thin layer, it is easy to remove it with a scraper, having previously sprinkled it with water. Thick layers are removed in parts with periodic wetting.
Instead of water, you can use a paste or solution, which includes 5 tsp. soda, 2 tbsp. l. pre-crushed laundry soap and 10 l. warm water.
- For removal old paint use one of these methods:
- mechanical (with a spatula);
- thermal (pre-heating the paint with a burner or iron);
- chemical (using special solutions, after which the paint can be easily removed with sandpaper).
We calculate expenses
If you do not want difficulties to arise during the work, which will no longer be possible to get rid of, calculate the cost of materials in advance. Please note that material costs and time spent on priming, puttying and plastering procedures take up to 1/3 of the total costs.
Try to keep the following in mind:
- square;
- surface type;
- features of the selected material (its consumption rate is indicated on the package);
- the need to leave a small margin.
How to choose primer material
The next step will be the choice of soil. Modern technologies offer the consumer a variety of reliable and high-quality primers, allowing you to find exactly the product that is most suitable for your purposes. Primers are of the following types:
- Acrylic.
They are versatile, so they are used on a variety of surfaces. Their advantages include the complete absence of an unpleasant odor, the ability to work on an extremely porous surface and the speed of drying. But it must be borne in mind that for work on ferrous metals similar type not good, rust spots will appear on the primer over time.
- Alkyd.
When thinking about what to prime, pay attention to alkyd primers, which are divided into 2 subspecies: on zinc phosphate or chromate. The first variety is distinguished by anti-corrosion, and the second - by versatility, although it will not be appropriate when applied to gypsum. They dry much more slowly than acrylic ones; it takes at least 15 hours to dry (at a temperature of at least + 25 °).
Priming the surface of a clean wall
- Giftal.
They are suitable for first coat application on metal surfaces. For complete drying, they need at least 24 hours (the temperature should be at room temperature).
- Perchlorovinyl.
With all the advantages in the form fast drying(1 hour) and versatility, perchlorovinyl primers should be applied only to the external surfaces of residential premises, they include toxic components.
- PVC.
This type is used for external works and is suitable for metal and concrete surfaces.
- Polyvinyl acetate.
Drying completely in half an hour, they still have a limited area of \u200b\u200buse - only for the appropriate paint.
- Polystyrene.
Due to the fact that these types of primers consist exclusively of toxic solvents, they cannot be used for indoor use.
Choosing the wrong mix for a primer with your own hands can lead to the fact that the costs required for repairs will increase significantly. Moreover, application in indoor areas primers intended for a different purpose threaten serious harm to health, so carefully study the characteristics of the type of coating you are interested in.
What nuances need to be taken into account
To take full advantage of beneficial features primers, consider all the nuances of the process. If you are going to make it yourself, observe the following rules:
- the surface of the treated walls should be as clean as possible;
- if the primer mixture gets on another surface or clothing, immediately wash it off with a wet cloth;
- avoid drips during the priming process;
- it makes no sense to dilute the entire primer at once;
- work is best done by wearing goggles, a hat and gloves;
- after finishing the primer, immediately rinse the bucket, brush, measure.
What mistakes to avoid
If you want to do without a primer or unnecessarily save the product, then the walls will not be able to maintain a good condition for years. You will receive a defective surface, from which highly likely plaster and putty will fall off. It is worth asking a professional about the need for a primer, and he will say that you cannot save on this type of work.
If you are not sure how to properly prime the walls before puttying, do not try to change materials. water-based paint, it has completely different properties, both technological and chemical. Such paint does not contain a sufficient amount of binders and additives. Because of this, both she and polymer dispersions create extremely weak, unstable films rich in dry components, which, for obvious reasons, strongly absorb water. In further work, even the use of the most expensive materials. So do not try to save money, buy quality material, adhere to the consumption rates and proportions indicated on the package.
Priming technique
Work technology
Before puttying requires the following tools:
- sponge;
- bucket;
- respirator;
- pallet;
- roller
Remove absolutely all loose particles from the walls. Clean the surface of dust, get rid of stains, make sure that there is no mold or fungus on the wall. Take Special attention this stage, otherwise there is a risk that the fungus will later spread to much large areas. On the surfaces affected by the fungus, you need to apply any bleaching agent that contains chlorine, after diluting it with water (1: 3). Be sure to wear a respirator, goggles, and rubber gloves to avoid contact with the spores. You can also purchase a special tool that allows you to get rid of mold and mildew, in addition, some types of primer perform a similar function.
When the wall dries after antifungal treatment, you can proceed to the primer itself. Apply a layer of primer to the surface, mixing it thoroughly. In most cases, one application is enough, but the application instructions say that loose walls that absorb liquids well require several layers. primer, if necessary, wait 2-3 hours for the first coat to dry before applying a second. Don't rush to carry out further work and let the primer dry. Do not forget that if the top layer is dry, moisture may remain inside.
When the primer is completely dry, you can proceed to puttying the surface. Remember that it will be almost impossible to wash off the dried primer, so cover all the furniture, if any, in the room.
In order for any coating to last as well and as long as possible, the walls need a preliminary primer. Only if it is carried out you will receive high quality further finishing, this procedure will improve the adhesion of materials, save the walls from the later accumulation of moisture in them. Putty will also last longer without crumbling or cracking. Those who decide to skip this procedure will notice that the repair will soon require updating, and will no longer neglect the primer.
