Connection and installation of electrical wiring in the garage. How to properly wire the wiring in the garage: wiring diagrams, cable laying requirements. How to wire inside a building of this type

The presence of electrical wiring in the garage greatly facilitates the life of the car owner. In case of urgent need, you can quickly charge the battery or pump up a flat tire. And in case of serious breakdowns, the presence of lighting will allow you to carefully examine the vehicle from the inspection hole. We have prepared for you instructions with diagrams, which will allow you to carry out the installation yourself.

Creating a do-it-yourself wiring diagram in the garage

Single-phase wiring diagram for a garage

The garage belongs to the group of technical premises where open-type wiring is more often used. This allows you to carry out work on power supply in the shortest possible time. In addition, such a system is easier to upgrade and maintain. For safety reasons, wiring can also be laid inside load-bearing walls, but if problems arise, the damaged area will have to be completely opened.

In garages used for parking and keeping no more than two cars, a single-phase power supply of 220 V with a frequency of 50 Hz is laid. This voltage is sufficient for the operation of lighting, a power outlet group, power tools, charging and start-charging equipment.

Three-phase power supply with a voltage of 380 V is used only in garages used to contain a large number of cars and large equipment, when there is a need for the constant operation of an electric boiler, power supply for machine tools and a welding machine.

Before carrying out installation work, a wiring diagram must be drawn up. To draw up a diagram, it is better to use graph paper, which depicts the general plan of the garage, walls, floor and ceiling. All sketches are depicted on a reduced scale, convenient for applying the appropriate designations.

An example of an external electrical wiring device in a garage

After that, the location of the following devices is indicated on the diagram:

introductory switchboard;
metering device, UZO, automation;
socket group;
switches and lighting fixtures;
power cable and wiring.

When drawing a diagram, it is advisable to consider the optimal location of the RCD, the meter and calculate the route for laying the cable to the outlet group and lighting. The total number of sockets and lighting fixtures is determined, especially if there is a viewing hole.

When designing electrical wiring, it is necessary to provide a way to supply electricity to the switchboard, taking into account the location of the garage. Basically, a garage is built in garage cooperatives with their own substation or near residential buildings connected to the power grid. If it is planned to build a garage on a separate site, then the method and route of laying the cable line from the nearest transmission line is calculated.

Scheme for a garage without a viewing hole

Scheme of a single-phase electrical wiring of a 220 V garage

Taking into account the described conditions, the photo above shows a single-phase wiring diagram with a rated operating voltage of 220 V. This is an approximate diagram drawn up for reference. In practice, especially in the presence of powerful equipment, the wiring diagram may have a slightly different look.

The diagram for a garage without a viewing hole shows:

1 - introductory two-pole machine, designed for 220 V;
2 - electric meter;
3 - RCD for the socket group and lighting;
4 - single-pole machines for each socket group;
5 and 6 - paired rosette groups;
7 - automatic general lighting network;
8 - automatic local lighting network for spotlights;
9 and 10 - switches for general and local lighting;
11 and 12 - lighting fixtures.

According to this scheme, a three-wire wire is used for wiring: phase (L), zero (N) and ground. The ground wire is designed to protect a person from the effects of electric current and maintain the performance of electrical appliances. To simplify the diagram, the ground wire (PE) wiring is not shown.

Wiring diagram for a room with a viewing hole

Scheme of a single-phase electrical wiring of a garage with a viewing hole

Conventionally, the inspection pit can be attributed to the basement, located below the floor level. According to the rules for the installation of electrical installations (PUE), an extra-low voltage current of 42 volts or less should be used to power the viewing hole.

To do this, a special transformer is mounted that lowers the voltage and is designed for a total current power of up to 2–3 kW. At the same time, equipment, power tools and lighting devices that are planned to be used when working in a viewing hole must be designed for this voltage.

Above is a wiring diagram for a garage with a viewing hole. The diagram shows:

1 - introductory electrical panel;
2 - introductory two-pole machine for 220 V;
3 - electric meter;
4 - step-down transformer up to 36–42 volts;
5 - lighting fixtures of the viewing hole;
6 - RCD;
7 and 8 - automata of the socket group No. 1 and 2:
9 and 10 - socket groups No. 1 and 2;
11 and 12 - automatic lighting group No. 1 and 2;
13 and 14 - lighting group No. 1 and 2;
15 - switch or several switches for lighting groups.

As in the previous case, a cable with a grounding core is used to lay the electrical network. For lighting, a cable is used - VVG 3 * 1.5, and for socket groups - VVG 3 * 6. For sockets, the cable cross-section is increased due to the possibility of connecting powerful equipment: a compressor, a welding machine, a start-charging device.

Necessary materials

A correctly drawn up wiring diagram will help you quickly calculate the number of cables, automation, sockets, etc. First of all, the cross section and length of the input cable are calculated. To do this, you can use the special table below.

Table calculation of the cable section depending on the power of the network

For example, let's calculate the parameters of the cable and other components for scheme No. 1, which was indicated in the previous section:

The cable length is determined based on the optimal route. The cable is purchased with a margin of 10%. It is highly recommended not to buy very cheap products. It is optimal if it is double-insulated wiring and insulating conductors.

Necessary tools for installation

Step-down transformer for the mains from 220 to 36 volts

To install the wiring, you will need the following tool:

pliers and side cutters;
cross and slotted screwdriver;
hammer and chisel;
electric drill and perforator;
grinder with a disc for concrete;
electrical tape and indicator screwdriver.

It is desirable that the handles of hand tools be made of rubberized materials. If the handle is made of plastic, then before performing work it must be wrapped with electrical tape in several layers.

Do-it-yourself wiring in the garage - step by step instructions

Work on the installation of wiring and lighting in the garage consists of several stages: preparing the walls, pulling the input cable, installing internal wiring, connecting lighting and sockets.

Indicator screwdriver for checking the power on the contacts

When working with electricity, the safety rules must be observed:

Connection, pulling, installation and other work is carried out with the electricity turned off. It is better to verify this yourself - carefully check each contact with an indicator screwdriver. To do this, the tip of the screwdriver is applied to contacts and other surfaces, while the index finger is always in contact with the end of the handle.
When the switchboard is de-energized, an indication plate is hung on it: “Do not turn it on! Work is underway." If it is not possible to completely de-energize the shield, then connection work should be carried out only with rubber gloves, standing on a rubber mat.
It is forbidden to touch two contacts at the same time. When working with three-phase wiring, you should be extremely careful. The voltage between the conductors in the 380 V network is noticeably higher than in the standard 220 V. It is also important to remember that the effect of phase-to-phase voltage, especially when current passes through the heart, is fraught with death.

If, before performing work, you are unsure that you can bring the matter to the end with due care and concentration, then do not proceed with the installation of the wiring. It is better to call a professional who will do the job better and with minimal risk to health.

Preparatory work

Pulling the power cable "through the air"

Before installing electrical wiring, prepare the cable and walls for laying communications. The cable is cut with a margin of 10 cm for each connection. Before cutting, the wall surface is carefully measured according to the route drawn on the diagram.

the cable route must be strictly horizontal or vertical. The turn of the route occurs only at an angle of 90 o ;
wiring should be laid at a distance of 10–15 cm from the place where the walls meet the ceiling or floor;
switches are mounted at a height of at least 1.5 m. The distance from the doorway is at least 10-15 cm;
sockets cut into the wall at a height of at least 60 cm from the floor surface. The distance between adjacent outlets is at least 4 m;
a separate circuit breaker is provided for each group of sockets and lighting fixtures;
for a viewing hole, a step-down transformer and lighting fixtures of appropriate power are necessarily provided.

After that, markings are applied to the surface of the wall using a marking cord, marker or construction pencil. When using a pencil, the markup is checked by level. To do this, use a laser or bubble level.

If there are extraneous dimensional objects and containers with combustible mixtures in the garage, then before laying the wiring they must be taken out into the street.

External wiring

Pulling the power cable "underground"

The complexity and scope of work on connecting the power cable to the garage will depend on the territory in which the building is located. If the garage is located in the local area, then it is enough to dig a pit of the required length and lay an armored cable.

For a building erected on the territory of a garage cooperative or a separate building, you will need to submit an application to the organization that maintains the power line.

Further, the organization will consider the application, documents on the right of ownership and the drawn up power supply scheme. After that, a decision will be made and requirements will be assigned that the owner must comply with before connecting the power grid.

According to SNiP, the power cable can be connected in two ways:

Underground - a hidden way to connect a building, which uses an armored cable. For its laying, a trench breaks out with a depth of at least 30 cm, below the freezing point of the soil. A sand cushion 15 cm thick is filled up and compacted at the bottom of the trench. A corrugated pipe is laid on the cushion and a cable is pulled. After this, the pipe is covered with a 15 cm layer of sand and finally immured in the ground.
By air - an open way to connect the building to the power grid. For this, a cable with a carrying cable is used, which is pulled between the support post and the garage. If the distance between the garage and the post exceeds 20 m, then an intermediate support is installed between them. The height of the cable tension above the carriageway should not be less than 6 m above ground level.

Work on connecting the power cable is carried out only by a specialist of the management company. In the process of work, you have the right to control the progress and quality of their implementation. This is especially true for the depth of the cable - at least 70 cm and the height of tension when entering the room - no more than 2.75 m.

Internal wiring in the garage

Chasing walls for electrical wiring

To enter the power cable into the garage, you will need to make a hole in the wall with a puncher. Hole diameter - 20–30 mm. The cable is pulled through a corrugated PVC pipe with a cross section of 20-25 m and is brought to the location of the electrical panel.

Further installation of electrical wiring inside the garage consists of the following:

According to the applied markings, cuts are made to a depth of 2.5-3 cm using a grinder with a disc for concrete. After that, the concrete is carefully hollowed out with a chisel and a hammer until the cable channel of the desired shape is formed.
PVC corrugation for cable protection when laying communications
In a pre-marked place, an electrical panel is installed for the required number of modules. For a single-phase network, as a rule, a shield for 9 modules is enough, and for a three-phase network - 12 modules or more.
When installing the shield, you will need to carefully remove the packaging and the factory protective film. To mount on the wall, unscrew the upper part of the housing and the door. Under them there will be a din-rail for modules and terminals. All elements must be temporarily removed.
To mount the shield in the wall, you will need to drill four holes and hammer in plastic plugs. After the back of the case is mounted on the wall using self-tapping screws, which are screwed into the mounting holes.
electrical panel for the garage with automatic, RCD and meter
Before installing the modules in the shield, it is better to mark them. To do this, you can use plain paper and transparent tape. The name of the module is written on a piece of paper 1 × 0.5 cm and glued to the product. For example, if several RCDs are mounted, then the following is glued to the first device: “RCD of socket group No. 1”.
After marking, the modules are mounted on a DIN rail in any convenient order, but it is better to start with an RCD and a meter, and then place single-pole machines. Next, the modules are connected using jumpers from a cable with a diameter of 2.5 mm. To do this, the wire is cut into pieces of the desired length. The end of the jumpers for connecting to the machine is cleaned by 1 cm, and for connecting to the meter by 2 cm.
When connecting modules in a single-phase network, white and blue jumpers are used. The white wire is live and the blue wire is zero. The upper contacts are designed to connect phase wires from the electric meter, and the lower ones are for outgoing wires to sockets and lighting.
Wire staples for connecting the machine and RCD
After connecting the "phase" and "zero", it is necessary to connect the outgoing from the meter, RCD and automatic "zero" wires. To do this, the jumper is displayed on the contact terminals of the "zero" bus. Finally, the clamping screws must be carefully checked.
To connect the power cable, you will need to insert a protective corrugation with a conductor into the shield through a puncture in the product. The cable is connected to the input machine at the top of the device.
From the circuit breakers, a braided wire is pulled through cable channels or PVC pipes fixed to the wall. When the line is connected to the location of the sockets, a junction box is mounted. Installation is carried out in an open or hidden way.
Mounting the switchboard on the wall and the box under the ceiling
With the open method, the box is mounted on the ceiling or wall using self-tapping screws. With the closed method, a recess under the box is drilled in the wall using an electric drill with a crown nozzle. Further, to connect the wires, use the color-coded scheme that comes with the kit. A line is drawn from the box to the socket group and it is connected.
In a similar way, a line is drawn for lighting and switches. The cable is pulled to the location of the switch, where it is soldered and goes to the lighting fixtures.

After pulling and installing all the wiring assemblies, the quality of the connection of devices, insulation and connection of lighting is checked. If all work is done in accordance with SNiP, then you can check it by applying power.

Video: how to connect an RCD

Pit lighting

Inspection pit lighting in the garage with 36 volt lamps

Lighting and arrangement of sockets for a viewing hole, as a rule, is carried out only in garages where it is planned to install three-phase wiring with a voltage of 380 V. For this, all the work described above is performed. In addition to this, a step-down transformer is mounted and connected near the switchboard.

A line is drawn from the transformer in a closed way - a stab is knocked out in the wall and floor, where the cable protected by PVC corrugation is laid. After that, the cable is led directly to the viewing hole, where it diverges to the lighting group.

As lighting devices, low-voltage lamps 12–36 V based on LEDs are used. It is desirable that the lighting device be completely made of plastic. If there is a metal circuit or cover on the case, then it is additionally grounded.

Sockets and switches for lighting in the inspection pit should be located outside it. It is optimal if they are located in close proximity to the switchboard.

Video: do-it-yourself wiring in the garage

Garage lighting with LED strip

SMD 5630 LED strip and plastic corner

LED strips are a modern and energy-efficient way to illuminate rooms up to 30 m2. Especially in garages where the arrangement of general lighting is not required, but only the illumination of work areas is needed.

For contour lighting of a garage, SMD 3528 type tapes with a luminous flux of 5 lumens / diode are most often used. Tapes of the SMD 5630 types with a luminous flux of 40 lumens/diode are used as central illumination.

The technology for mounting and connecting the LED strip will consist of the following steps:

The diagram for connecting tapes to the power supply is shown in the photo above. Tapes cannot be connected in series. If you plan to install RGB tapes, then you need to use an RGB controller.5

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The basic requirements that must be taken into account during electrical installation at almost any facility are described in the Electrical Installation Rules (PUE) in chapter 2.1 (wiring), as well as, on certain issues, in a number of other chapters. In this article, we will consider the basic requirements and typical diagrams, the knowledge of which is necessary in order to do the wiring in the garage with our own hands.

How to lay electrical wiring in the garage?

Any electrical wiring begins with the choice of how it is laid. As a rule, to reduce costs, the wiring in the garage is performed openly. If the garage is made of cinder block, brick, iron, i.e. any non-combustible material, then laying can be done in almost any way, from laying in a corrugation to direct laying (for example, on brackets), but if the garage is made of wood or any other combustible material, this imposes much more restrictions on possible laying methods, in which case wiring is best done in a box (cable channel).

What cable (wire) to use for wiring in the garage?

For wiring, it is necessary to use cables with aluminum (AVVG brands) or copper (VVG brands) cores, while it is better to give preference to copper:

Use of PVS type flexible wires or ShVVP cords not allowed! They are used only for connecting mobile, portable and stationary electrical appliances to the network or for extension cords.

What cable size should be used?

The cross section of the cables used for wiring is determined based on the power of the electrical appliances connected to them, knowing this power, you can calculate the cross section using ours. As a rule, cables with a cross section of 1.5 (or 2.5) mm 2 for copper, or 2.5 (or 4) mm 2 for aluminum are used for electrical wiring.

What electrical safety requirements must be met?

Modern electrical safety requirements state that new buildings must have grounding (7.1.13. The power supply of electrical receivers must be carried out from a 380 / 220V network with a grounding system or), in domestic realities, it is implemented using the TN-C-S system, where the neutral conductor is re-grounded at the input and divided into a working zero and a protective conductor (more on how to make grounding using the TN-C-S system), so the cables must have a ground conductor, those. for electrical wiring, it is necessary to use three-core (for a single-phase network) or five-core (for a three-phase network) cables.

It is also worth considering that in the garage it is often necessary to use a carrier (portable lamp.) But in accordance with the requirements of the PUE the use of carriers for a voltage of 220 volts is prohibited, paragraph 6.1.17 says that to power portable lamps in rooms with increased danger and especially dangerous, a voltage of no higher than 50 V should be used, and if they are used in cramped conditions or the employee is in an uncomfortable room (and often the position of a car mechanic is such), then the voltage should not exceed 12V).

There are two ways to get such a voltage in the garage: by powering the carrier from a 12V car battery or from a step-down transformer. Of course, you can use the first step-down transformer that meets the requirements, but it is much more rational to purchase a complete box with a step-down transformer, a disconnecting circuit breaker and a socket, for example, YATP 0.25 220 / 12B (manufactured by different enterprises, one of the examples of the name for easy search on the Internet stores - IEC MTT12-012-250), its power is 250 VA, there are more powerful options, they are selected based on needs (number and power of lamps).

You can mount it in an electrical panel or on a wall in any convenient place (but not in an inspection hole) and power either a portable or stationary 12V lamps from it.

In the inspection pit itself, there are two dangerous factors - cramped working conditions and they are often humid, up to the runoff of groundwater. So in the pit there should be neither sockets nor stationary lamps that operate from 220V. If it is necessary to install a lamp or a carrying socket, their connection must be made from a step-down transformer.

All lamps with a voltage of 220V, including portable ones, must be located at a height of at least 2.5 meters (to prevent electric shock if accidentally touched).

What fixtures and sockets to use for lighting in the garage?

In addition, sockets in the 220 Volt network must have a grounding contact.

The required number and power of fixtures can be calculated using

wiring diagram

Consider a typical variant of wiring in a 220 volt garage. Any electrical wiring begins with an introductory switchgear (electrical switchboard) in short - ASU, in which protection devices (, etc.) and an electric meter (if necessary) will be installed in the future, while the ASU itself, as a rule, is best installed near the entrance to garage.

On the front or side panel of the ASU, or next to it, light switches for the main (ceiling) lighting and a block of sockets are installed. It is better to install local lighting switches directly near these lamps, that is, if you have an additional lamp installed above the workbench, then it is better to install the switch next to it. It is useful to install one or more outlets on the opposite wall, near the workbench (desktop), so as not to scatter extension cords throughout the garage.

It is not safe to lay 220V lines in the inspection pit and, based on the foregoing, this is completely prohibited. Therefore, it needs to be limited to 12V lamps, you can also place a 12V socket to connect a portable lamp or tool with a reduced power supply voltage.

If you have a compressor, a separate line is also laid to it.

Based on the foregoing, the arrangement of electrical equipment in the garage will look something like this:

NOTE: Distribution boxes are shown in gray, where wires of lines with a voltage of 220V are connected, and green - 12V.

Then the 220V wiring diagram (sockets, compressor, as well as working and ceiling lighting) in the garage will look like this:

The junction boxes are signed by numbers, you will see the diagrams of their wiring below. Having drawn up the wiring diagram, you should calculate the length of the lines for the purchase of the cable. The core cross-sections for lighting lines are usually chosen at 1.5 mm², and for sockets - 2.5 mm². The cross section of the cable cores for connecting the compressor is selected based on its power, 2.5 mm² is conventionally taken in the diagram (usually this is enough). You can calculate more accurately using our.

We also give the schematic connection diagrams separately for each cable in accordance with the wiring diagram compiled above:

Here you see the connection of a two-gang switch for controlling ceiling lighting and wiring to sockets. We considered this issue in more detail in, and if you want to control the light in the garage from several places, then it will be useful to you

The cable to the compressor is not shown in these diagrams - it goes directly from the shield.

Now consider the laying of networks at 12 volts. Using the example of a box with a step-down transformer of the YaTP type, its connection diagram will look like this:

NOTE: When choosing a cable for a 12 Volt network, it is also necessary to use our other calculator after it.

The wiring diagram for 12 volts will look like this:

It is rational to conduct wiring in the pit in a screed, laying PVC, HDPE or a metal pipe in advance.

Cable connection diagrams in junction boxes, according to the numbering, in the previous figure:

The second junction box is located in the inspection pit, it contains cables for powering all lamps and sockets for a portable light source

A well-equipped container for a car or other transport must necessarily have well-thought-out electrical wiring. And even if someone managed to establish an apartment (home) electrical network, fix more than one device with their own hands, there is no need to hastily get to work. First you need to find out everything and thoroughly understand what exactly needs to be done.

Peculiarities

Electricity in the garage is always needed. Even those who are not going to repair their car or motorcycle are forced to recharge batteries there and illuminate the room at night. If the garage is also used for repairs, for car maintenance, you will have to sharpen tools, drill and cut, grind, solder, weld metal ... But the inevitable placement of fuel and lubricants nearby, constant dampness and contact with the ground require wiring very carefully.

Not every garage owner has enough free time and knowledge. to study building codes and rules for electrical installations. Unlike electrical work in the house and in the apartment, it is necessary to obtain permission from the board of the garage cooperative or from the owner of the rented parking space. Connection to three-phase networks at 0.4 kV will also require coordination with the electricity supplier, the same organization must draw up a project according to your application.

Important requirements

Using a 220 V network imposes much fewer restrictions on the owner of the garage. However, he must definitely purchase a meter that can withstand electricity at 50 Amperes and the appropriate cables. The energy supervision is closely monitoring the supply of the load current. In case of violations, he has the right to issue an order to dismantle the illegal electrical network and even impose a fine on “initiative electricians”.

It is possible to conduct electricity from the house by air and underground methods.

Cables are suspended in the air, held by a supporting steel wire with a diameter of 0.3 cm. According to current regulations, underground lines are supposed to be pulled in corrugated plastic pipes laid in trenches 0.8 m deep. The bottom of the excavation is sprinkled with sand (0.1 m layer). A similar line is connected to a personal meter, the segment is protected using a special machine.

To distribute electrical energy, they use a special electrical panel installed directly in the garage itself. For him, a main machine is provided, the same type as that installed in the apartment (house). These requirements are key, and all other points depend on the scheme used.

Mounting diagram

A high-quality, well-thought-out electrical circuit is the main guarantee of successful work. It is important to distinguish between so-called circuit diagrams and layout diagrams; the first describes the electrical circuit itself, and the second describes the location of consumers (with a note about distances or with an exact scale). For the greatest convenience and the elimination of errors, the wires are marked with the same colors that they have in real life.

Phase conductors in the networks are under dangerous voltages in relation to the ground. But connecting an RCD without a protective earth will not work.

Residual current devices are differential transformers, summing the input (from the phase) and exported (through the neutral) currents. If the insulation is damaged, when a short to the case occurs, these currents differ and do not cancel each other out.

Protection against leakage current will only work successfully if it is directed along its own special grounding line. With the help of the main machine, it is possible to de-energize the network when short circuits occur on the main line or when all lines are subjected to simultaneous overload. This device is indispensable for repair, and when testing the system, and when troubleshooting in it.

Separate groups are connected to "their" machines in phase circuits. The tires located in the shields are structurally made as strips or bars made of copper, brass. Holes are made in them for wires tightened with screws.

The work of an electrician with a three-phase garage network does not differ significantly from the procedure already described. It should only be mentioned about two auxiliary phases and built-in automata, RCDs instead of the usual ones designed for one phase. The phases are wired as in conventional lines under a voltage of 220 V, together with the neutral. The voltage of any pair of phases should be 380 V, with a phase angle of uniform load of 120 degrees.

To build a power grid correctly, you will need:

create a diagram with clear and distinct images (symbols);
mark vertical fragments of the wiring with "+" signs with the assigned height;
strictly observe selected signs for sockets, lamps and other elements.

When the schemes are formed, you can begin to complete the garage electrical network.

Selection of cables and wires

When selecting any cable and wire, it is worth focusing on a voltage of 230 V (it is replacing the old 220 V and will soon become a generally accepted standard).

In most cases, it is assumed that:

ceiling lights are rated at 80 watts each;
in the inspection hole there are 3 lamps for 36 V, 0.1 kW each;
sockets for connecting working electrical equipment for 5 kW in total are brought out into the same pit.

Starting from the transformer, it is worth using a closed format copper wire.

If at least part of it is carried out inside the concrete floor, a core with a cross section of 4.5 square meters is needed. mm. For sockets in the inspection pit, closed wires with a cross section of 1 sq. mm more. More detailed information about the properties of electrical wiring in relation to your garage can always be obtained using special formulas. The thinnest cable is used to connect ceiling lights - 1.5 square meters. mm (thinner does not exist).

To save money, it makes sense to buy aluminum wires, especially for the least loaded areas.

As in any other room, copper and aluminum should not be connected - this also needs to be taken into account when selecting wiring. Only double-insulated cables with insulating conductors can compensate for the harmful effects of negative conditions in garages.

The selection of automata is made "by current". Ceiling light sources need 2.5 A, pit lights need 15 A. The formula for calculating the required transformer power is the same as usual. A residual current device designed for a passing current of less than 20 A and for operation at more than 20 mA is completely unsuitable, because leakage from serviceable devices is almost imperceptible.

To accommodate cables and busbars, you will need:

shields of the closed type;
boxes;
cable channels;
sealed trays.

Most often, such products are made of metal, but an increasing share of the market is occupied by round and rectangular plastic pipes. Corrugated products should be resorted to only in the most extreme case, using them is quite tiring. The most modern and practical solution for electricians is a cable tray with a snap-on lid. Metal-plastic pipes performed quite well - the same ones that are usually used in plumbing and heating systems.

Mounting technology

Having purchased all the necessary materials and tools, you can start pulling the wiring. Where it is not possible to make a bend in the form of a large radius of pipes, it is worth using boxes. They will help distribute the branches and arrange the switches properly. It is necessary to fix both the boxes and the connecting pipes on the supporting structures as carefully as possible. Responsible owners of garages, both installing wiring with their own hands and turning to professionals, always evaluate the tightness of the joints of any pipe and box.

It is important to remember that even the simplest materials and structures carefully thought out by engineers are installed only with careful, painstaking work.

Correctly stretching the cable through the pipe means first bringing the wire inside. To do this, use special heads that will prevent jamming and clamping. Only then comes the turn of tying the cable to the wire and passing it through the pipe. It is advisable to use trays on vertical wiring segments, ceiling lights are suspended on tensioned cables (not under voltage!).

To make the fastening of the wires in the boxes reliable, it is recommended to either clamp them with screws or solder the copper twists. Where aluminum and copper wires have to be joined, they are separated by terminals or washers made of other metals. Great attention should be paid to grounding. Not a single step-by-step instruction for wiring in a garage can bypass it.

A typical workflow is as follows:

next to the main building, a steel pipe coated with a zinc layer is driven into the ground, 2 m long;
a round steel block with a diameter of 0.6-0.8 cm is welded to this pipe;
a circle of steel is painted with hydrophobic paint and brought into the garage;
it must be laid to the shield, next to which the terminal is placed;
behind the terminal is a thick copper wire (thickness is the key to low resistance).

Since the garage is a damp and dangerous room, where the risk of electric shock is high, it is therefore worth choosing sockets and lighting fixtures that comply with the IP44 protection class.

To make a full-fledged workshop, you will have to separate three-phase wiring based on a copper cable, the cross section of which is at least 6 square meters. mm. The cable is placed so that it is at least 11 cm to the ceiling, and the socket and the floor must be separated by 50 cm. It is advisable to maintain a gap between the installation and the heating pipes of at least 15 cm.

Many garages are equipped with a cellar, and this part of the room also requires special lighting., that is, laying wires and connecting them to lighting fixtures. The cellar already belongs to damp spaces, where it is necessary to install the electrical network as carefully as possible. And when it is also located in the garage, the severity of the requirements only grows. Step-down transformers with an output current of 12 V should be used. Only after making sure that the room is completely dry, it is permissible to use standard 220 V electricity.

It is advisable to show the garage to an experienced electrician before starting work and coordinate with him the purchase of all components. This will make it possible to take into account the specifics of the network being created as accurately as possible, to avoid errors in its construction and failures in operation.

According to those who have already had to create hidden wiring in the garage, the best solution is to stretch cable channels from non-combustible materials. A smooth surface on the inside is much more convenient than a corrugated sleeve. If suddenly the wiring fails, you can always open a small section of the wall and change the burnt wire or even part of the channel.

With all the importance of electrical wiring, you need to make sure that there is a window in the garage.

It provides natural light and supports the most economical mode of use of appliances. And this means that the same wires and distribution nodes will work longer.

It is not difficult to conduct light in the garage if it is located next to the house, electrical panel or power line. If you have electricity, using the garage will be much more convenient, moreover, you will be able to work in it with electrical tools and equipment.

You should start with the fact that the wiring needs to be done secretive - not so much for the sake of aesthetics, but for security purposes. If the garage is made of sheet iron, then, of course, there can be no question of any hidden wiring, but in this case, various boxes, sleeves and corrugated pipes can be used.

Important! For the sake of safety, at the input, a grounding device should be installed in the electrical panel, which can be used as metal rods with a diameter of 1.5-1.6 cm (they should be dug vertically into the ground and connected to each other with a steel plate).

In addition, all sockets, switches, etc. must be well protected from dust and moisture (it is advisable to use IP44 class devices).

How to conduct electricity in the garage legally

If it is planned to make a full-fledged workshop out of the garage, then a three-phase input will be required, for which, in turn, it is necessary to visit the local Energy Supply and obtain technical conditions there (in the future, each of the points will need to be observed) and the corresponding permit.

And if we are talking about garage areas, then cooperatives are often created in them. It is in such a cooperative that you should obtain permission to electrify the garage, find out where the electrical panel is located and under what conditions you can connect to it. In addition, it is necessary to conclude an energy supply contract.

Do-it-yourself light in the garage: a step-by-step guide

The procedure consists of several stages, we will get acquainted with the features of each of them.

Stage one. We develop a scheme

We start by drawing up a wiring diagram - this will help prevent possible errors during installation. In the diagram, we indicate the location of cables, switches, sockets and lamps, observing a number of the requirements below.

The distance between the ceiling and the cable should be at least 10 cm, and from the floor to the socket - 50 cm. As for the general switch, it should be located to the right of the gate, about 150 cm from the floor.
We also note exactly how we will connect each element of the network. The socket must be in front of the switch, while the switches with the lamp must be connected in series.
To connect the element, we use straight lines located perpendicular to each other. We start the connection with the switchboard.

After that, we transfer the drawn up scheme to the walls. For drawing lines, we use a long cord, after dipping it into the paint.

Stage two. We prepare tools and materials

For work we need:

a hammer;
screwdriver-indicator;
chisel;
puncher (if the garage is not metal);
screwdriver;
electric drill, a set of drills;
side cutters;
insulating tape;
pliers;
building plaster;
self-tapping screws;
dowels.

We also prepare the most important thing, that is, the electrical cable. It is advisable to use copper wires, although aluminum wires are also quite suitable. We also buy switches, lighting devices, sockets, corrugations and cable boxes.

Stage three. We install wiring in the garage

The installation is divided into two parts:

external wiring (to the garage from an energy source);
internal.

Important! If the internal laying can be done by hand, which many do, then the external one should be handled exclusively by a professional electrician who has access to high-voltage lines.

External wiring

Electrical energy can be transferred to the room in two ways:

underground;
by air.

Choosing one or another option, we are guided, first of all, by the relative position of our garage and other buildings. If it is located further than 25 m from the pole, then with the "air" laying, we will have to put an additional pole. Moreover, the wire must be 2.75 m from the ground (near the garage), 3.75 m (above sidewalks) and 6 m (above the roadway). We introduce the line through the wall at a height of 2.75 m, for which we use insulators on hooks.

Important! We make a hole for the input with a slope towards the street so that water does not penetrate inside.

After work, we carefully isolate all the cracks. If the height of our garage is less than the regulated 2.75 m, then we install a pipe rack - a special steel pipe, the upper end of which is curved at an angle of 180 degrees. In this case, the cable entry can be made even through the roof.

As for the underground laying, the cable here must be protected with a steel box.. We carry out the input through a hole in the foundation, we protect the cable in this place with a pipe. What is important, each cable needs a separate hole.

At the end, the electrician who completed the installation leads the wire to the introductory box, equipped with fuses and a meter. After that, we proceed to the second part of the process.

Inner lining

It can be of two types (as noted above):

hidden;
open.

For metal buildings, we use the second method, in which the wires should be fixed in special boxes or skirting boards. Flat cables (such as APPR) are most suitable for this. Cables are attached to the walls with nails or staples in increments of 40 cm. We carry out the wiring horizontally (somewhere 20 cm from the ceiling line), we use screws or glue to fix the boxes.

If the garage is made of concrete or brick, then we resort to a hidden type gasket, and we do this even before plastering. If the work is done after applying the plaster, then in the right places we ditch the walls (we make grooves 0.5-0.6 cm deep), into which we lay the wires, securing them with small nails.

Important! A feature of this method is that the ends of the wires must be soldered to each other, otherwise they will unwind or oxidize. After soldering, we fix the joints with insulating tape.

Additional events

Almost every garage has a basement or viewing hole. It would seem that lighting is easier for them to make portable, but the fact is that there is usually a high level of humidity, so the maximum allowable voltage is only 42 volts. For this reason, we buy and install a small step-down transformer. We also buy special equipment that is designed specifically for such low voltage.

Do-it-yourself wiring in the garage (video): where to start

Outcome

As a result, it is worth paying a little attention to safety. When performing work, it is imperative to adhere to the requirements below.

No need to rush, because the main thing when working with electricity is safety.
Any manipulations related to electric current (even a banal replacement of a light bulb or socket) should be carried out only in the absence of voltage. To this end, you can unscrew the plugs (if you still use them) or the machines on the switchboard.
For work at height, goats or scaffolds should be used (no barrels, chairs mounted on tables, and similar structures).
Shoes with clothes should be as comfortable as possible so that body movements are not hindered.
The tools used must be intact and - more importantly - with an insulated handle. The same applies to electrical equipment.

And remember: if you lay the wiring correctly, it is guaranteed to serve you for at least 30 years.

The technology for creating electrical wiring in a garage differs from work in an apartment or a private house. However, it is not difficult to conduct electricity in the garage, but the help of a specialist may be required. The fact is that the supply of electricity from the pole to the shield must be carried out by a qualified electrician with a license to work with high voltage. Inside the garage, you can already cope with the task on your own.

Schema Design

Before starting installation work, you should create a wiring diagram in the garage. It must necessarily mark the place where the cable enters the building, as well as the location of the electrical panel, lamps and sockets. . When drawing up a diagram, several requirements must be followed:

Here is an example of a wiring diagram in a garage, which it will not be very difficult to create with your own hands:

Selection and calculation of materials

After completing the design of the circuit, you can begin to select the necessary materials. First of all, you should decide on the amount of cable. Since it is necessary to carry out not only internal, but also external wiring (from the pole to the building), the conductors must be selected for each type of work.

To extend the external line, use a cable with copper current-carrying conductors, the cross section of which is at least 10 mm 2. It is not advisable to use a conductor with aluminum conductors. This is due not only to the need to use a conductor with a larger cross section compared to copper wire, but also due to the low elasticity of aluminum. In such a situation, the risks of mechanical damage increase significantly.

To calculate the required amount of wire, you need to decide on all the electrical appliances that you plan to install in the garage. The total power of these devices should be multiplied by 1.2 to provide a power margin of 20%. To connect sockets, it is recommended to use conductors with a cross section of 4 mm 2, and 1.5 mm 2 will be enough for switches. It is also necessary to take the wire with a margin and in length. For each connection, it is recommended to increase the calculated length by 15 cm.

In the garage, most often it is enough to install 2 sockets and a switch. If there is no basement or viewing hole in the building, then you can limit yourself to one switch. Now many people are paying attention to LED lamps. They are more expensive than fluorescent, but are more economical. Most often in the garage, wiring is carried out by an open method, and in such a situation, the number of cable channels or corrugations should be additionally calculated.

Installation steps

All work can be divided into three stages. Each of them has its own characteristics, which must be taken into account when working independently.

Preparatory work

Preliminary work consists in preparing the walls and cutting the conductors. It should be remembered that the markings on the surface of the walls must be applied in accordance with the previously developed scheme. To solve the problem, it is easiest to use a special cord.

It is installed at the starting point and fastened. After that, the cord, in a taut state, is pulled along the wall to the next wiring point, pulled to the side and lowered with a sharp movement. As a result, an imprint remains on the surface of the wall. At this stage, it is important to pull the cord strictly vertically or horizontally in accordance with the diagram.

When the wiring is carried out in a hidden way, then after marking it will be necessary to make strobes for the wires. If the garage is metal, then it is worth choosing an open electrical wiring. It should be remembered that the dimensions of the grooves should be 20x20 mm.

External wiring

It is advisable to entrust these works to a specialist. The easiest way to run the cable from the pole to the garage is by air. However, it should be remembered that when the distance from the post on the street to the building is more than 25 m, then one more additional support will have to be installed. In addition, there are several height requirements for overhead wiring:

Above the carriageway - from 6 m.
Above the footpaths - more than 3.75 m.
Entering the building - at least 2.77 m.

If the first two requirements are met without problems, then this cannot be said about the last. The garage is a low building and there are a lot of problems when entering the cable through the roof. To avoid them, it is recommended to enter through a metal pipe, slightly curved at the top.

You can also conduct electricity from the pole using underground wiring. There shouldn't be any difficulty here. just need to make a trench, into which the armored conductor is then placed. An example of such a cable can be a cable marked VBbShv. However, this input method should be considered at the stage of garage construction and a hole for cable entry should be provided in the foundation.

To protect the conductor from mechanical damage, it is better to place it in a steel box. The only drawback of the underground laying method in comparison with the air one is its higher cost.

Inner lining

If the wiring is done in a hidden way, then the wires are laid in pre-made strobes, after which they are fastened with brackets or clamps. The next step will be the installation of junction boxes, as well as the installation of switches and sockets.

After that, it remains to connect all the wires and ring the finished wiring with a multimeter. It should also be recalled that wiring must be carried out exclusively with the help of pads. If after checking the wiring there were no problems, then the walls are plastered.

In an iron or wooden garage, wiring is easier to do in an open way. To do this, cable channels are installed on the walls, into which wires are laid. This method of wiring is extremely rarely used in residential areas, but is great for a garage.