How to do your own bathroom renovation. How to make a quality toilet repair. Preliminary cleaning of surfaces and replacement of communications

Now I want to save on everything, including repairs.

And if, having entered your own toilet, you finally understand that it requires at least cosmetic repairs, it is not necessary to hire builders.

You can gather strength and make repairs to the toilet do it yourself. And if you have no idea where to start, the most right option there will be visits from relatives, close friends and neighbors to put together a picture of what your brand new toilet should be like. In doing so, pay more attention to technology used during the renovation.

Now in the building materials market there is lots of various primers and lubricants that improve . Therefore, you can easily choose the material that suits your price.

If there are cracks and dents in the walls, they must first be repaired. cement solution. After it has completely dried, the walls and ceiling must be carefully primed.

Pipe installation

Of course, you can replace the whole riser, but for this it is better to call specialist and negotiate with neighbors.

If the replacement of the riser is not included in your plans, you can stop at a section of the pipeline passing through your apartment.

However, if you are not confident in your abilities, it is better to leave the replacement of pipes for later. It should also be taken into account that they can hide in a special decorative box or locker.

floor leveling

Firstly they are cheaper. BUT Secondly, have excellent sound insulation, durability, and are very easy to mount.

Initially, you need to decide how much to buy.

Depending on the perimeter of the toilet and the presence of shelves and drawers, calculate the square. m., occupied by panels. You also need to purchase skirting boards and metal profiles to which they will be attached. cladding panels. It is advisable not to buy very thin plastic, as it is less durable. Give preference to materials with a thickness of at least 8 mm.

So, initially you need to create frame from metal siding with the obligatory use of a plumb line. In this case, it is desirable to fasten the profiles to the ceiling so that it does not bend over time.

Then we start gather directly plastic panels, planting them on dowels. This must be done very carefully, since plastic, even despite its thickness, is quite fragile.

After finishing work, the joints of the corners are desirable misssilicone adhesive so that no moisture gets in. Skirting boards located on top can also be glued with silicone, while the bottom ones are screwed with dowels.

Looks great, comfortable and easy to care for.

Toilet repair with wallpaper

it the most budget from the existing options. For repairs you will need washable wallpaper good quality based on polypropylene or polyester.

The walls must be good prepared, they should not have paint or plaster residues, because your new wallpaper can simply fly off them.

Surfaces are treated with waterproofing and primer to avoid the appearance of fungus and better surface adhesion. Also, when using a primer, you will save a little on glue.

Wallpaper is glued using plumb line and careful ironing of the seams. The advantage of this repair is budget and simplicity wallpaper pasting. However, such a toilet will not be very practical, and in a few years you will again have to take on construction tools.

Thus, it is not so difficult and expensive to do so. You can always choose building materials according to your wallet and preferences. What is not worth saving at all, it is plumbing and tile. But in general, a little willpower, ingenuity and desire, and in a couple of days you will brag that you have mastered a new profession of a builder.

Before starting repairs, experts recommend looking at the options for finishing the bathroom on the Internet or specialized magazines. In accordance with the chosen project, they decide where to start repairing the bathroom with their own hands. In each specific case, its own repair algorithm is possible, but it is most reasonable to start with measurements of the dimensions of the space. The data obtained will allow you to accurately determine the amount of materials that will be required for the upcoming repair.

Preparatory work

Repairing a bathroom is very expensive, so many people want to save on building materials. In no case should you buy building mixtures, tiles or paint in the markets or “from hand”. Such a purchase will be of poor quality at best, and at worst, dangerous to health.

Advice. To reduce the cost of consumables, it is better to make all purchases in an online store, where the price is 8-10% lower than the average market price. Having learned the exact cost of the finishing materials chosen for the renovation of the bathroom, they begin to draw up an estimate. In case of unforeseen expenses, the estimated amount should be increased by 10%.

Experienced builders claim that the one-time purchase of all consumables will avoid delays in repairs caused by the lack of tiles or paint of the desired shade. Construction products are stored in a certain order, allowing you to easily access the materials used in the first place, such as plaster, drywall, timber, and so on.

Rough finishing of the room

The stage of rough finishing begins with the removal of old coatings from the floor, walls and ceilings. This can be done with a jackhammer or manually with a chisel. Naturally, the second method is more laborious, but the walls will receive less damage.

If work has not been carried out in the bathroom for a long time, then the screed will also have to be dismantled. In this case, a moisture-proof film is laid on the floor slabs, which protects the neighbors from below from possible leaks, and a new base floor is created. Filling for screed can be prepared from a mixture of sand, cement and water. This option for creating a floor is budgetary, but has a significant “minus” - for complete freezing cement screed it takes a whole month. Such long delays in bathroom renovation can be avoided if modern self-leveling pastes are used when installing the floor screed. Their application will allow short time get a flat floor surface, which greatly simplifies installation floor covering.

Updates carried out in a residential area often concern the bathroom. In this regard, individual property owners need to know exactly where to start. self repair? In this case, the initial steps should be the same as when repairing a separate bathroom.

At the stage of rough finishing of the bathroom, the following is carried out:

punching grooves in the walls for placement electric cable and water pipes;
alignment of all surfaces of the room;
installation of a warm floor (if it is produced);
laying of water and sewer pipes;
replacement of electrical wiring.

Walls and ceilings are aligned during the process plastering works, which are difficult to carry out qualitatively without the presence of certain skills. Ideally smooth wall surfaces are obtained if they are sheathed with waterproof drywall. This material is attached to the crate, which is made of wooden beam or metal profiles. The joints of the sheets are sealed with sickle and putty.

“Advice:” Moisture-resistant drywall is best suited for bathrooms. Its leaves are green

"Warm floor" is used as additional system heating. There are two types of it - electric and water. In apartments, the heat carrier, most often, is an electric cable, and in cottages - hot water from a heating boiler. Installation of a warm floor is not complicated and, depending on its type, is carried out at the stage of pouring the screed or before laying the floor covering.

After the walls are leveled, they begin to replace the water pipes. Metal constructions that require welding are a thing of the past. They were replaced pvc pipes, which are either twisted together using fittings, or soldered with a construction iron. Any man can now handle this job.

"Forbidden:" When installing plastic pipes, excessive stress and kinks should not be allowed. This pipe won't last long.

With electrical wiring, everything is a little more complicated.

Forbidden. in the absence of the necessary knowledge of electrical engineering and experience as an electrician, independently change the electrical wiring in the house. Such amateur activity is fraught with fires and electric shock to people.

The laying of the electrical cable should be entrusted to employees of one of the many specialized companies, which will give a guarantee for the work performed.

Bathroom wall finishing

Initial knowledge of where to start the repair will not be enough for its successful completion. Every stage repair work has its own characteristics and nuances.

Advice. finishing work in the bathroom begins with the ceiling, only if it is supposed to be painted. Otherwise, proceed to facing the walls of the bathroom.

Due to operation in conditions aggressive environment, there are special requirements for building and finishing materials for the bathroom. They must be moisture resistant and not lose their aesthetic appearance over a long service life. appearance.

The following are the main options for finishing the walls of the bathroom:

Bathroom wall decoration PVC panels. This is the most budget option. Installation is very simple and does not require skills and time-consuming. Along one of the corners of the room, with the help of self-tapping screws, a special plastic corner is attached. A panel is inserted on one side of it, then the other one is butted with it, etc. The junction of the panels and the ceiling is sealed with a border, and with the floor - with a plinth;
Facing stone slabs are expensive and require a certain skill when decorating walls with them. It is not recommended to install them yourself. Even small violations of the technology made during their installation can cause serious defects in the wall cladding;
Tiles are ideal, and therefore, the most popular finishing material. Its installation can be handled without much difficulty.

Bathroom wall tiling

To work, the master will need the following set of tools and materials:

tile cutter with a spare knife;
drills "ballerinas";
straight and notched spatulas;
level;
a sufficient number of plastic "crosses".

Advice. In the process of working with tiles, some of it may become unusable, so you will need to have a small excess of this material (about 1 sq. M.). When repairing a bathroom in Khrushchev, in connection with small size premises, this supply of tiles can be limited to 0.5 sq. m.

On the aligned walls of the bathroom, notches are made that are needed for their best adhesion to tile adhesive. Then, calculate the number of tiles that will fit in one horizontal and one vertical row. This is done in order to place incomplete tiles in inconspicuous places, for example, behind the bathroom. Tile adhesive must be of the desired consistency, medium in density.

Tiling starts from any lower corner of the room. Using an even spatula, glue is applied to a section of the wall. A second, similar tool is used to apply adhesive to the back of the tile. The adhesive mass is leveled, and tile firmly pressed against the wall. If the tile is not warped (it is best to check with a level), then spacers (crosses) are placed between it, the wall and the floor. Their presence will allow maintaining the same distance between separate elements tiled wall.

After the completion of the facing work, the seams between the tiles are processed with grout of a suitable color. It is applied with a roller, and its excess is immediately removed from the surface of the tile.

Flooring installation and ceiling decoration

Floor tiles are used as flooring in the bathroom. It is larger than wall tiles, but the installation process is the same as for wall tiles. Property owners also have the option to choose one of the options for decorating the ceiling:

painting its surface with emulsion paint;
false ceiling installation;
installation of a stretch fabric.

In order for the paint to lay down in an even layer, and there were no stains on the surface of the ceiling, it is necessary to use an airbrush when applying it. Installing a false ceiling is also not particularly difficult. When it is installed, at a distance of 3 cm from the base ceiling, a frame is created. Elements of a suspended structure are embedded in its cells.

The original decoration of the bathroom can be stretch ceiling. However, it will not be possible to carry out its installation on its own - this will require special equipment in the form of a heat gun or a building hair dryer.

To repair a bathroom in a new building, you should always use the services of professionals who can carry it out taking into account the upcoming shrinkage of the house.

This completes the renovation of the bathroom, and it remains only to install plumbing equipment.

Do-it-yourself toilet repair is not one of the special complex work- the combination of temperature and humidity in the toilet room rarely goes beyond the usual for living quarters. It is only necessary to remember that the toilet is an exclusively functional room, and everything in it must be subordinated to a very specific goal: to ensure the best functioning of the smooth muscles of the excretory organs.

It does not at all follow from this that we are going to talk about things that cannot be said. On the contrary, we will describe how to make an inexpensive repair of the toilet, while turning it into a room that is cozy, comfortable and peaceful. Even Galen and Avicenna wrote that for the sake of health and longevity, natural needs should be sent in a good mood and with pleasure. Modern medicine fully confirms their conclusions.

Repair stages

Step-by-step repair of the toilet includes the following stages of work:

choice of type, place and method of installation of the toilet bowl;
design development;
selection and purchase of materials;
cleaning the floor, walls, ceiling;
laying communications;
floor repair;
plumbing cabinet;
wall and ceiling repairs;
floor finishing;
installation of lighting, ventilation, washbasin, urinal, bidet;
wall, sanitary cabinet, ceiling decoration;
door replacement.

Repairs that do not involve the replacement of plumbing and complex construction work (cosmetic) are much simpler and will be described in a separate section. And now let's look at the stages of how to make repairs in the toilet.

Toilet

For the sake of it, in fact, the toilet was created. When choosing this device, you should first of all think: is it possible to put a hanging toilet bowl?

The faucet, washbasin spout and shower diffuser built into the wall are nothing more than a tribute to fashion. Their technical and economic expediency, to put it mildly, are very, very doubtful: the slightest malfunction is tantamount to a breakthrough, hence the exorbitant high cost of devices with their lower reliability at times. In some countries, building codes already outright prohibit them.

But the toilet is a completely different matter. It is difficult to clean the floor around its pedestal, and especially the corner under the outlet, and if you take a smear there and submit it for analysis to the SES ... the faint of heart are asked to refrain from viewing.

Under the wall-mounted toilet there is a flat, easy-to-clean floor. You can’t make a niche in the wall for it in our typical house - the wall thickness is not enough - but in any toilet there is a bracket for hanging and flush tank it is very easy to hide behind a sanitary cabinet, which does not allow dirt to accumulate in the nooks and crannies. And the repair of a small toilet in this case simultaneously solves another important sanitary and hygienic problem, which will be discussed in its place.

Design

Requirements for the design of the toilet based on the needs of physiology are justified by a huge amount of material, from the works of archaeologists studying the camps of primitive people to the latest research in the field of molecular biology. The basis is a simple fact: biological evolution is at a snail's pace compared to the development of civilization, and physiologically we are the same as our distant ancestors in skins and with a knotty oak in their hands-hooks.

Without going into details, not without interest for readers who are not prone to hypocrisy, but requiring a lot of space for description, we summarize:

Small details, especially colorful ones, are unacceptable: they create a subconscious feeling of anxiety that knocks down the work of the intestines.
You should also avoid bright, saturated and flashy tones in the color scheme; pastel colors are preferred.
The overall tone should "cold" from the bottom up, losing at the same time juiciness.
whole vertical planes that give the impression of open space are also undesirable.
The walls should be divided vertically into two sections: from the floor to the level of the eyes or chin of the inmate and above - to the ceiling.
Dense overhead planes also have a bad effect on physiology.

Note: pastel colors are also good because the inevitable change in color tone in the toilet (see below) is not so noticeable in them.

Based on this, the physiologically justified color design of the toilet looks something like this:

The floor is rather dark, yellowish, brownish or grayish.
Walls to a height of 90-120 cm (3-4 rows of tiles 30x30 cm) - desaturated red-brown with specks or very light gray, also with specks.
The walls are higher and up to the ceiling - beige, mustard, cream, etc. It is possible with a flat relief or a faded blurry pattern.
Ceiling - pale blue, pale cream or pearl gray.

materials

When choosing materials for repairing a toilet, you need to consider the following:

A lot is spilled on the floor in the toilet in exceptional cases, but what is spilled even in negligible amounts is saturated with biologically active substances (biologically active substances) and highly active chemical compounds.
Compared to the bathroom, a little evaporates into the air in the toilet, but most of the fumes are chemically active, strongly and unpleasantly smelling substances: ammonia, unsaturated and cyclic hydrocarbons, etc.

Such circumstances impose certain restrictions on the selection of materials:

Any wood and products based on it (MDF, laminate) should be discarded - they are porous and organic. The fact that small splashes from a silly child or a guest who has had a hard time are immediately absorbed is only good at first glance. In fact, pleasant to the touch and pleasing to the eye, a teak, yew or cork floor will quickly become a haven for germs. They do not spray on the ceiling, but the vapors rise first of all towards it.
Also undesirable tiles based on ordinary silicates (not white from the inside). Chemically, it is neutral, but it has a lot of micropores, and it absorbs odors and keeps it well. You will have to use deodorant more often, but it costs money and is not a natural part of the air.
Washable PVC wallpaper should be treated with care, because of the filler. It can also absorb volatile compounds. You should buy either certified or from a trusted manufacturer.
A conventional floor screed is also undesirable, even with the addition of a polymer emulsion: its moisture absorption coefficient can reach 0.4% by volume. For the bathroom, this is more than good, but in the toilet it is not water with a small admixture of fragrant shampoo that gets on the floor.
Suspended ceiling Armstrong is excluded: it is highly porous, and even made from chemically unstable organic matter - paper production waste.
Any paper wallpaper, no matter how they modify it, for the same reason.
Any paints with organic pigment and filler: from the most insignificant miasma, they very soon turn yellow, gray and take on a completely vile appearance.
Styrofoam ceiling panels - for the same reason.

Here are some tips for repairing a toilet:

On the cladding - porcelain stoneware. Dense, chemically resistant and durable material is slightly more expensive than tiles. And the percentage of manufacturing defects is much lower than that of inexpensive tiles, so in general it comes out cheaper.
Tiles - faience or another based on kaolin (white from the inside and with a shiny fine-grained fracture).
Paints - on mineral pigment and filler of marble flour (microcalcite). Somewhat worse with filler from dolomite flour, but with skillful painting for 7-10 years, they are also enough.
Washable wallpaper - their polypropylene, polyester or foam.
Drywall - only moisture resistant, green.
Drywall profiles - galvanized or aluminum.
Plaster - any, but with mandatory impregnation with a roller after hardening with a primer on deep penetration concrete.
Waterproofing - aquaizol or polyester.
Floor screed - base and liquid polymer finishing.

Note: self-leveling floors were invented primarily for toilets, as a replacement for useless cement-sand screed anywhere in them. They are not cheap, but the toilet and consumption is small. If we take into account the backfill, selected sand, fittings, beacons, a tool for concrete screed, but on a small area, the self-leveling floor comes out even cheaper.

Sewer replacement

Replacing the sewer in an apartment is a difficult job and. Here we only add a little: in front of the cross, it is advisable to insert a tee with a 32 mm branch pipe into the outlet from the bathroom and kitchen. When renovating a small toilet in panel house it is very useful, see the section on the arrangement of a washbasin in the Khrushchev toilet.

Room cleaning

Cleaning the toilet before repair is easier than the bathroom, but it has its own characteristics:

Before getting off the floor, carefully inspect the toilet mounts (assuming all plumbing is removed immediately). The laboriousness of work on the floor and the cost of them largely depend on their condition, see the section on repairing the floor.
Both the floor and the walls do not need to be dug up to bare masonry, slabs or ceilings: the bulk of the plaster and screed in the toilets, as a rule, do not deteriorate even in damp block Khrushchev houses.
Tiles can be knocked down in a draft without cleaning the floor to a smooth surface: when bulk screed small irregularities are not significant.
paint and upper layer plaster from the ceiling and walls is dusty, but easy to clean off with a drill to a round wire brush. With some skill, you can then immediately paint, glue tiles and wallpaper.
The skill of cleaning with a brush is developed quite quickly, so it is better to start cleaning from the surfaces covered later by the sanitary cabinet: there the flaws will hide forever.
At the end of the stripping, the walls and ceiling must be vacuumed and treated with a roller with a deep penetration primer on concrete. While you are messing with the floor, the walls and ceiling will be completely ready for painting, gluing and cladding.

Laying communications

If the toilet is being repaired in Khrushchev, then there is no choice regarding hydraulics and sewerage: they remain where they were. The mini-washstand (which we will talk about ahead) does not require much trouble.

In the case when the area of \u200b\u200bthe room allows you to install additional sanitary and hygienic devices, then the pipes for them will have to be hidden in the walls, otherwise they will spoil the whole view. The laying technology is the same as in the bathroom: solid brazed propylene on solid propylene fittings in strobes. At the end of the installation, the strobes are foamed. There are two features, as the Americans say, good and bad:

It is not worth plastering the strobes in the walls: they will be perfectly glued with tiles.
It is impossible to hide pipes in the floor or let them in a bunch in the corners, covering them with slopes: the first will create places for the accumulation of miasma, and the second, in addition, will be conspicuous and significantly reduce the floor area, which is not redundant anyway. So a hammer drill with a chisel on concrete will have to work hard.

If “replacement” is understood as taking off, painting and putting it back on, then remember: you need to paint only in a horizontal position, otherwise it will not do without streaks. Paint - the same as the others for the toilet. White, in order of preference - titanium, lead (do not be afraid, this is not free lead, they are not poisonous), zinc. The latter turn yellow from traces of ammonia in the air after 3-4 years; titanium ones are almost eternal.

Redecorating

Redecorating the toilet suggests that the matter is limited to finishing and painting, and all plumbing fixtures remain in place. In this case, the decoration of the walls and ceiling does not differ from the one already described, and the floor is easier to handle:

We remove the plinth.
The perimeter of the room and the circumference of the riser (or the contour of the cross, if it is semi-recessed into the floor, are sealed with silicone.
Option 1: pour a liquid polymer self-leveling floor with a layer of 10-15 mm onto the floor directly on the previous tile. Calculation of volume - according to the area of \u200b\u200bthe room.
Option 2: we lay marmoleum, having previously removed the toilet bowl. Cheaper, and rusted fasteners can be replaced. With serviceable fastenings on a sheet of marmoleum in places for bolts, we make cross-shaped cuts (this way you do not need to measure with jewelry accuracy), and after laying, the excess is cut off with a mounting knife.
We put the plinth in place - it's ready.

Toilet BEFORE and AFTER cosmetic repairs without replacing communications

Toilet with a washstand in Khrushchev

Look again at the picture with the bathroom closet. Yes, there is a small washstand, and you can immediately wash your hands right there. But where to get one? In railway cars, they even cost more ... Do it yourself:

Spout - ready, goose, with the smallest possible extension.
Sink - a plastic reusable deep bowl with a narrow bottom and a top edge bent down. The choice is rich, the prices are inexpensive.
Water supply - metal-plastic pipes-henks, as in a sink in the kitchen from tees on pipes.
Outlet - 32 mm corrugation into a tee on the outlet from the bathroom with the kitchen (that's what it is for!).
Siphon - due to the bending of the corrugation.

The alternative is a miniature sink. But you have to look for it.

How do you make a shell out of a bowl? First, in the center of the bottom of the bowl we drill 4 holes of 4 mm each, inscribed in a circle with a diameter of 30 mm; this will be the grid. Then we cut out a round boss from plywood 12-18 mm: outer diameter - according to the diameter of the bottom of the bowl, excluding the shoulder; internal - 35 mm. We impregnate the boss with PVA emulsion. Then we glue the boss with AQUARIUM silicone glue to the bottom of the bowl and glue the corrugation into it with the same silicone.

Now it remains to cut holes in the sanitary cabinet shelf with a circular drill on stone (the cabinet is already tiled) for a bowl with a diameter along the upper diameter of the bowl; then it will lie with a bent edge on the shelf, and under the spout. The main thing is not to miscalculate with the markup: the water should flow a little away from the very center of the sink-bowl so that it does not splash on the grid.

And, finally, we fix the mini-sink with silicone, now it is already possible with a cheaper construction one. We put the corrugation into the sewer pipe, seal it with the same silicone. In the closet, we put a fixing nut on the spout handles, bring them out, attach it to the spout fittings, insert it into place, fix it with a nut - the mini-washstand is ready.

Note: do not glue the boss with construction silicone or superglue (cyanoacrylate glue). The first is not strong enough, and the joint on the second will fall apart in six months or a year.

Outcome

Self-repair of the toilet can be performed by an average-level home master. In addition to significant money savings, this will provide experience with which to take on.

The toilet is one of the most visited places in the apartment, where, in addition to performing its main utilitarian function, you can retire and indulge in reflection. Therefore, it is important that this room is cozy, clean, comfortable, so that it is pleasant to be in it. Many apartments still have toilets. old building with obsolete morally and physically plumbing and cladding. And new building and finishing materials have appeared in stores, which cannot but stimulate changes in the design of the bathroom. Since repairs with the involvement of a construction team are quite expensive, and the area of \u200b\u200bthe room is usually small, it is worth trying to repair the toilet with your own hands - a person with “hands” is more or less able to do it.

Preparing to renovate the toilet

First you need to decide on the idea of the future appearance of the bathroom, as well as what kind of repairs to be done - cosmetic or major. Cosmetic repairs include only a new finish of the walls, floor and ceiling - for example, you can paint the door, paint the ceiling or make it hinged, prime the walls, putty, paint or wallpaper. But if you start repairing the bathroom, then you should make it thorough, with the replacement of pipes, coatings and plumbing, and sometimes you can add new elements to the room or move existing ones.

Renovation ideas can be associated with the traditional type of restroom, or they can suggest a new arrangement of plumbing, furniture and communications. In a small room, for example, in Khrushchev, there will, of course, be fewer options than in a more spacious one in a new house, but this does not matter - with proper planning, you can profitably use every piece of space. It is necessary to choose suitable finishing materials and think over the design, which we will discuss below. If there is a desire and space allows, you can install a small washbasin in the toilet - today on the market there is a choice of what will suit the price and size. It will be useful next to the sink. Installing a corner toilet, especially in combination with a corner washstand, will significantly free up space, but this will require more manipulation.

In a more spacious toilet, you can put more useful furniture and appliances - a bidet, a washing machine, hang cabinets, shelves, even place decorative elements. For beauty and convenience, it is worth considering the disguise of communications and equipping plumbing cabinet chik.

So, where do you start with a do-it-yourself toilet repair? The procedure is usually standard:

determination with the design of the toilet;
selection and purchase of finishing and building materials;
choice of the type and location of the toilet bowl;
replacement of the riser and sewerage;
cleaning the floor, walls, ceiling from the old finish;
laying communications;
repair of floors, walls and ceilings;
floor finishing;
toilet installation;
installation of a plumbing cabinet, lighting, other plumbing;
other finishing works;
refinishing or replacing a door.

Choice of design and facing materials

The interior design of the toilet, depending on the size of its area, should be appropriate: we visually expand a small area, narrow it down a large one. You can visually bring too high ceilings. All this is available with the help of some techniques of combining colors and textures.

Most often, the toilet facilities in the apartments are quite small, and even narrow. In this case, division will help visually make it wider. wall decoration horizontally into two parts - upper and lower with a border about half the wall. In this case, the lower part should be darker or brighter, and the upper one should be more neutral and light. If the ceiling is too high, then vertical stripes running along the walls will help visually bring it closer. They can be made solid or in the form of a broken line, as well as from some of the materials used in flooring or completely different, to match the overall style.

It is not worth decorating a bathroom in only one color - the view will not be at all the one that is expected, and it will not add comfort.

It is better to choose materials in discreet, neutral colors with the addition of accessories in similar colors - this is more physiological for such a room, and it will be easier to redo the interior with the advent of new ideas, and even with common style the design of the apartment will be easier to correlate. Plumbing can be chosen traditionally white or in the color of the finish. Chrome accessories can also play the role of extension.

At larger area you can give free rein to your imagination a little, especially since modern ideas interior design allows it. Dark or bright colors finishes will visually narrow the room, and bright accessories will allow self-expression to manifest.

When choosing finishing materials for a bathroom, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of the room, so such materials should be:

moisture resistant;
easy to clean, including aggressive means;
not absorbing unpleasant odors;
do not take up much space.

by the most suitable materials for do-it-yourself toilet decoration, you can consider tiles, washable wallpaper, moisture-resistant paint, plastic panels.

It is better to choose a tile from a tile, porcelain stoneware, the main thing is that its wrong side is white, that is, based on kaolin. It does not have as many micropores as ordinary silicate tiles, and does not absorb odors, which is very unpleasant in the toilet.

This finishing material is considered a classic for sanitary facilities, as the tile is easy to clean, it is durable, moisture resistant, and durable. Its choice in the modern market is huge, in addition, you can independently choose various original combinations. But you need to lay tiles on perfectly even walls, and the price of such a finish will be the highest of all options.

Wallpaper for the toilet should be selected moisture resistant, which will be easy to clean. Therefore, it is better to dwell on vinyl, non-woven, fiberglass. A novelty on the market of finishing materials is also suitable - liquid wallpaper, which also has the necessary qualities, is also easy to apply and has a wide variety of colors.

Bathroom paint is one of the budget options finishes, suitable for ceilings and walls. It is easy to apply even to a non-specialist, you can add different patterns and patterns if desired. For the toilet, latex-based paint, or mineral pigment with microcalcite filler, is suitable. But staining is carried out at an ideal smooth walls ah, which requires their preliminary alignment.

Plastic panels are one of the cheapest options for finishing walls and ceilings. They are moisture resistant, quick to install and easy to clean, have varied design, besides, they do not require perfectly smooth walls. But given that the panels are mainly attached to the crate, they can steal part of the useful area of \u200b\u200bthe toilet, which in a small room is 1.5-2 square meters would be completely inappropriate.

In addition to the materials described above, you can use moisture-resistant green drywall, plaster, followed by impregnation with a deep penetration primer.

Wooden and MDF panels, paper wallpapers, ordinary drywall, silicate-based tiles (not white on the wrong side), paints with organic pigment and filler are not suitable for lining the bathroom, foam panels for the ceiling and the usual concrete screed for the floor.

Preliminary cleaning of surfaces and replacement of communications

So, where to start repairing the toilet when the design is thought out and facing materials bought? Now is the time to start dismantling the old plumbing and coatings and, if necessary, replacing the riser and sewer pipes.

First you need to turn off the hot and cold water, make sure that the water from the taps does not flow, then drain the water from the tank. Then proceed to dismantle the drain tank - the water supply hose is disconnected from it and from the water pipe, and then the tank itself is unscrewed from its mounts. After that, you can begin to dismantle the toilet. If the toilet was fixed to the floor with bolts, screws, then they are unscrewed with a key or a screwdriver and taken out of the room. If during installation it was used concrete mortar, then in most cases old toilet just break it down and replace it with a new one.

It's time to start removing old coatings from the floor, walls and ceiling. This is necessary so that the new lining does not begin to peel off over time, and the old one has accumulated a lot of smells. Old tiles from walls and floors are removed using a puncher or, in its absence, a hammer and chisel. The paint can be removed with a building hair dryer and a spatula, or with a drill or grinder with a round metal brush - the top layer of plaster is also removed. A thicker layer of the latter is removed with a spatula, after soaking the surface. The same method is suitable for removing old wallpaper.

After removing the old lining, the surfaces must be well leveled, take out the trash, brush again, and it is best to walk with a powerful vacuum cleaner to remove all dust. After that, an antiseptic deep penetration primer is applied, preferably in two layers - the second after the first has dried.

You should think about waterproofing the floor in case of possible accidents and water leaks, in order to avoid flooding the lower floors. Most accessible - coating waterproofing, applied to the joints of walls and floors with a width of 15-18 cm, a waterproofing tape is glued to it right during drying. After the joints have dried, this mass is applied to the entire floor.

After the above manipulations, you can begin to replace the pipes. Old metal pipes are best replaced with propylene ones - they are more resistant to aggressive substances. It is better to replace the sewer riser completely in the entire entrance, especially if it is old and has been in operation for a long time - this must first be organized together with the neighbors. Replacing part of the riser will be much more troublesome. If it is not planned to install water filters and water meters, then simply install new ones plastic pipes in place of the old ones.

For a more aesthetic appearance, water and sewer pipes are hidden in a special sanitary cabinet, which is constructed from wooden or metal profiles, leveled and fastened together with self-tapping screws. The structure is sheathed with moisture-resistant green drywall, which can be decorated on top with other finishing materials. Separate boxes can be built for the sewer riser and for ventilation, having equipped it in advance exhaust fan. It is imperative to consider the location of the inspection door in order to provide access to the pipes in case of leaks, and simply to take readings from the instruments.

Floor, wall and ceiling repairs. Choice of lighting

Do-it-yourself toilet repair after cleaning surfaces from old coatings and replacing communications continues with leveling and finishing the floor.

The floor in the toilet is easier and best to make bulk - for this, a liquid polymer finish is also used. By using special tools the prepared solutions are quickly leveled - one a day after the other. Given the area of \u200b\u200bthe toilet, the price of such a finish will be quite affordable.

Self-leveling 3D floors

Ceramic tile flooring remains one of the best and most practical options for the bathroom, but the process of laying it is more laborious. It can be laid on an old concrete or new cement screed.

As an option, you can lay marmoleum - natural linoleum, which has bactericidal properties, which is suitable for the bathroom.

The height of the floor in the toilet should be lower by 2-3 centimeters general level floors in the apartment. This is necessary in order to retain water for some time in case of flooding, which can save the situation.

Repair of walls can consist of several stages - depending on their initial condition and the desired appearance. If they are uneven, then you first need to level them with puttying or drywall sheets (preferably waterproof). Sheets of drywall are attached to the wall with special glue, or on a thin wooden crate if the walls have significant irregularities. On top of the prepared surface, the selected wall finish is applied - we talked about it above.

Repair of the ceiling is carried out in the same way as in other rooms. By leveling it, if necessary, with putty, you can apply paint with suitable composition, or trim with PVC panels, having previously attached the crate. If desired, you can build suspended ceiling from drywall, on which LED spotlights will look good.

If we are to direct beauty in the toilet, then we should not ignore the lighting in it. A commonly used chandelier with a light bulb above the door gives too dim and dim light. A large sconce on the wall or spot LED lighting under the ceiling will look much better. When choosing luminaires, consider general design bathroom and its area - a small room needs bright light.

Installation of plumbing in the toilet

The final moment of the repair is the installation of a toilet bowl and other plumbing, if any. After carefully studying the manufacturer's instructions, you can cope with the process yourself. The floor-mounted toilet is installed in a pre-selected place, or where it was previously, the attachment point is outlined with a marker, holes for fasteners are drilled. A new corrugated pipe is tried on to the toilet and to the sewer pipe opening. By attaching the toilet to the floor, you can install the corrugation, the places of all joints should be well treated with sealant. Having dealt with the design of the drain tank, it is connected to the water pipes.

If a hanging toilet is selected, then it is mounted on a special triangular bracket, which is built in advance. The bracket frame is either mounted in the self-leveling floor screed or attached to the floor with anchor studs. All unnecessary elements are hidden in a sanitary cabinet.

Having made an impression about the repair of the toilet, you can get down to business, while saving money and getting valuable experience, which can be useful when working on larger projects.

"last generation", modern finishing materials, as well as radically new technological solutions interior design, many have a desire to transform their homes. And in order to better understand how certain finishing materials are mounted, it is best to start with the smallest room in the apartment - the bathroom.

Do-it-yourself toilet repair is quite realistic if you know where to start this process, what materials you can use for this, and how to install certain components of this specific room.

Starting repairs in this room, it is necessary to foresee that if you plan to completely replace all plumbing and pipe wiring, and not just tidy up the walls and ceiling, you will have to spend a lot of money. The work of the construction team will also be expensive - that is why it makes sense to try your hand at the role of a builder and designer.

Preparatory activities

Like any construction work, toilet repair begins with the preparation of tools, the purchase of materials, the dismantling of old plumbing accessories, cleaning the surfaces of walls, floors, and ceilings.

Tools

You need to start with the tools, as they are necessary for both preparatory work as well as for the repair itself. Of the building tools you need to have:

Screwdriver with bit set or, last resort, a set of screwdrivers - for dismantling old accessories fixed to the walls, and then for installing new ones.
Perforator - for removing concrete baseboards, if any, and old tiles from walls and floors. In the future, it will be needed for drilling holes.
Gas wrench - will be needed for unscrewing and tightening threaded connections when dismantling and installing sinks, toilets and pipes.
Brushes and rollers - for applying primers and coating waterproofing materials.
Notched trowel - for applying tile adhesive to the surface.
If metal pipes are changed to plastic ones, then it will be necessary to prepare an apparatus for welding them and a special pipe cutter.
Roulette and folding rule - for carrying out the necessary measurements and markings.
Building level and plumb - to control the accuracy of the vertical and horizontal when finishing works ah, plumbing installation.
Other plumbing and carpentry tools - hammer, chisels, files, chisels, hacksaws and others - as needed.

Dismantling old plumbing fixtures

When everyone is at hand necessary tools, you can start work on dismantling.

The first step to take is to cover the cold and hot water from central system plumbing. The taps must be completely closed.
Next comes the dismantling. plumbing - sinks, if it is installed in the toilet, and the toilet bowl.

It is necessary to take into account the moment that if during the repair the family is not going to leave the apartment, then it will be very difficult to do without a toilet, therefore it is recommended to remove it last, and to remove it temporarily, only for the duration of the daily work, and then install and connect back to the sewer. This process is repeated until the repair is completed and a new toilet is installed in place of the old one. It's hard, but there's nothing you can do about it.

You can do otherwise - do not touch the toilet until the time comes to replace the pipes. True, you still have to return to the first option - it is unlikely that you will be able to do all the operations in one day.

Dismantling the sink

- after the to Before the apartment is disconnected from the water supply system, it is necessary to open all taps and make sure that there is no water left in the pipes. In addition, you need to flush the water from the toilet bowl, otherwise it may all be on the floor.

- Sinks are mounted on brackets fixed to the wall. Some of the models have a decorative pedestal that covers the sewer drain and water supply pipes. Additionally, the pedestal serves as a support for the bowl. Therefore, the dismantling of the sink begins with the removal of this particular element. The pedestal must be fixed to the floor, so the first step is to unscrew this mount.

— Hedged, you can twist the storage glass from the siphon, and the water accumulated in it is drained into the prepared container. After that, the sump glass can be put back in place, since the entire drain system will be dismantled. To do this, unscrew the nut installed at the bottom of the sink, with which the siphon and drain pipe are held. The nut can be easily unscrewed by hand if you turn it counterclockwise while supporting the siphon cup.

- Next, the siphon is removed from the pipe section on which it is installed, along with a hose that drains water into the sewer drain. Then, the entire system disconnected from the sink is removed from the sewer socket. The hole in the socket of the sewer pipe must be closed with a lid or plugged with a cloth rolled up in the form of a gag - so that the unpleasant smell of the sewer does not spread around the room.

- The next step is to disconnect the hoses supplying water to the mixer from the water supply system. To dismantle them, you will need to use a gas or adjustable wrench (in some cases it is more convenient to use a set of open-end wrenches - usually all plumbing connections in the bathroom or toilet - in the range from 19 to 30).

- Then the sink can be removed. If it is planned to install the same sink with the same mixer after repair, then it is left screwed to the bowl and taken out of the toilet room with it.

Dismantling the toilet

Having finished with the sink, proceed to the dismantling of the toilet and cistern.

- When dismantling the toilet, the water must also be shut off and water drained from the tank - this is a warning in case the process of removing it will take place on another day, after removing the sink.

- Then the tank is removed from the brackets if it is fixed on the wall and removed from the toilet. If it was installed on the toilet platform, then the corresponding fastening bolts are unscrewed, and the tank is removed.

- Now you can remove the "corrugation" (or other connecting pipe) from the outlet pipe of the toilet bowl, which goes to the sewer. She is removed from the toilet and pulled out of the socket of the sewer pipe. It is recommended to immediately discard this element of the system, and install a new one when installing the toilet bowl.

- The next step is to remove the toilet itself. To do this, bolts (sometimes screws or studs) are unscrewed from the holes, with which it was fixed to the floor. Fasteners are unscrewed with a wrench or screwdriver, depending on the type of fasteners.

- If the toilet was previously installed without the use of cement, only with the help of screws and sealant, then you should try to gently swing it and remove it from its place. If it was installed on a concrete solution, then it will not be so easy to knock it off its place, and in this case, in 99 cases out of 100, it is no longer possible to do without replacing the toilet bowl with a new one. The old one. most likely, it will give a crack or a split, it is immediately sent to the scrap.

- If it is planned to install the successfully removed toilet bowl in place after the repair, then it is temporarily taken out of the bathroom so that it does not interfere during work.

Cleaning surfaces from old coatings

Whatever finishing material for walls and floors is chosen, the old coating must be removed, since during its many years of operation it has probably been saturated with various odors that can remain in the room even after repair, which is highly undesirable.

The second reason why surfaces must be cleaned is that the walls cannot be treated with a primer, which means that decorative trim or the adhesive for it will not be adhesive enough with the wall. Finishing material will begin to flake off over time, and you will have to make repairs again.

It is convenient to remove old ceramic tiles with a puncher by installing a flat-shaped chisel-blade.

Cleaning walls from paint with a hair dryer ...

Painted walls can be cleaned with a blow dryer and trowel, or with a sander with a round wire brush.

... and with a wire brush

If plaster was previously applied to the walls, then it is first soaked with water, and then removed with a thickened spatula (having a thickness of 2.5 ÷ 3 mm).

Wallpaper from the walls is the easiest to remove - just like plaster, they need to be wetted and left for a while, then moistened again and removed from the surfaces with a spatula.

After cleaning the surface of the walls and ceiling, proceed to the dismantling of the flooring.

Work can be done manually using a chisel, or just like removing the old coating from the walls with a puncher.

After removing the old decorative coating, the surfaces must be well leveled, removing small remnants of the removed material. If necessary, they are once again traversed with a grinder with a metal brush installed on it.

Primer and waterproofing

After cleaning the walls and floor, the garbage is taken out, then all surfaces are swept with a brush, and finally it is better to collect the dust with a powerful vacuum cleaner.

Next, it is necessary to cover the surfaces with a deep penetration antiseptic primer, which will create excellent adhesion (adhesion) with the materials applied to them and keep the walls from mold colonies. The primer is applied at least twice, and the second time - only after the first has completely dried.

After the primer dries, you can proceed to the waterproofing of the floor. Since the toilet is undergoing engineering communications - sewerage and plumbing, no one can rule out various emergencies. To avoid the risk of water leaking to the lower floors, high-quality waterproofing in the toilet, as well as in the bathroom, is a must.

There are many materials and methods waterproof floor, but the most accessible for use in an apartment is coating waterproofing, which is first applied at the joints of the wall and floor in strips 150 ÷ 180 mm wide.

On top of the still wet coating, at the junctions of the planes of the walls and the floor, a waterproofing tape is laid and pressed well - it is recessed. It will additionally protect the joints from leaking in case of contact a large number water on the floor.

After the joints have dried, the waterproofing mass is applied to the entire floor and left to dry. If necessary, one or even two more layers are applied, each of which must dry well before the next is applied.

After the completion of the waterproofing process, proceed to the dismantling and installation of pipes.

Prices for different types of primer

Primer

Pipe replacement

If a major overhaul of the toilet is started, then, of course, it is better to immediately replace all the water pipes with new ones. Moreover, this process is necessary if the old system has been in operation for many years without repair.

It is better to replace metal pipes with plastic or metal-plastic ones. But first of all, the old ones are removed. They will have to be cut with a grinder - then they can be twisted using a gas wrench. Only after dismantling the old wiring to the place of its entry into the apartment, a new one will be mounted from new materials, installed in the same or another, more convenient place.

If there is no idea how to do it correctly, it is better to invite a specialist for such a task. He will draw up a diagram for the installation of all wiring, taking into account the location of water meters, water shut-off valves and connecting the installed pipes to the riser.

It will be optimal if the main water pipes- risers passing through all floors will be completely replaced in the entire entrance. Then all apartment owners will have the opportunity to change the pipes in their apartment at a convenient time for them without any problems by connecting to the new pipes of the riser.

Pipes are also a system of taps, filters, water meters and collectors.

The wiring diagram will be quite complicated if the water filters of the preliminary and deep cleaning and . If these devices are not provided in the apartment, then the scheme will be quite simple - instead of metal pipes, on the too most place new plastic ones are installed.

The easiest to install is a tee pipe layout, so it is often used in the bathrooms of apartments.

1 - A branch pipe with a fitting for connecting an automatic washing machine or a toilet flush tank.

2 — Pipes hot and cold water with fittings for connecting a basin faucet.

3 - Hot and cold water pipes with connectors for connecting a bath faucet.

4 – Elbows (corners) for turning pipelines in the right direction.

5 - Tees, allowing you to make a branch from the main pipe.

6 — check valves, allowing water to pass in only one direction, preventing it from flowing back.

7 - Hot water meter.

8 - Cold water meter.

9 - Pressure reducer, which stabilizes it in the apartment system - this installation is especially important if the pressure in external system is not stable.

10 – Oblique coarse filters.

11 - Faucets (valves) to shut off the water supply to the apartment.

12 — Central risers of cold and hot water.

The disadvantage of the tee system is the uneven supply of water to different points consumption while using.

The following diagram shows the common piping for the apartment according to the collector scheme. In it, each water intake point is connected individually to the installed collectors for hot and cold water. This allows you to achieve complete uniformity of water distribution and independence of water intake points from each other.

Obviously, if there is a desire to update the wiring system, making it a collector, then you will have to change the pipes in the entire apartment, where they are laid - the bathroom, the bathroom and the kitchen. Collectors are usually installed on the back wall of the toilet (usually water risers pass there or nearby) and close.

The figure shows one of options organization of a collector pipe distribution system in a city apartment:

1, 2 and 3 - valves, through which it is possible to organize either a direct supply of hot water to the intra-apartment wiring, or through an installed heated towel rail

4 – Main faucet at the hot water inlet.

5 – An oblique pre-filter that traps large particles from the central pipeline.

6 – Water meters respectively for hot and cold water.

7 – Fine filters mechanical cleaning. Very often they are additionally equipped with pressure gauges.

8 – Pressure reducers.

9 - Collectors - combs, to which cold and hot water pipes are connected, going to all points of water intake.

10 – Main tap at the cold water inlet.

The diagram also shows storage water heater embedded in the overall system. Naturally, when the owners switch to autonomous consumption of hot water, they must cut off the internal wiring by shutting off the tap (pos. 4) at the inlet of the hot water supply. More (which, by the way, is often hung in the toilet) described in a separate article of our portal.

When installing pipes, you need to determine the installation location of the sink (if it is provided in the toilet).

If it is located next to the wall where the collector is located, then flexible hoses to connect it, you can close it with a small box.

If the sink is installed closer to the exit from the toilet, then you can do it in two ways - also build a box for the pipes, or hide them in the wall. To do this, it will be necessary to make strobes in the wall, in which the pipes will be laid, going out only with threaded fittings for connection.

The latter option is especially relevant if ceramic tiles are laid on the walls.

After the pipe routing is completed, all open threaded fittings (they are often called sockets) must be temporarily closed with covers, plugs or small gags so that building mixtures do not get into them.

The sewer pipe coming from the sink can also be hidden in a box, wall or on the floor, making a separate gate for it, into which it will be embedded. The second end is connected to the sewer pipe passing from the toilet to the main riser.

Should I completely change the sewer riser? It is desirable, of course, if there is an old cast-iron pipe there, already heavily corroded by corrosion. But it will be quite difficult to do this in one single apartment from the entire riser. If you take such a step, it is best to immediately negotiate with all the neighbors.

Having finished operations with pipes, you can proceed to work that will help make the toilet room neat. Agree that no matter how aesthetic the new pipes look, they should still be closed so as not to spoil the view.

Pipe box installation

In order to decorate the water and sewer pipework, it is necessary to erect a frame on which drywall panels will be fixed.

A well-arranged box will help hide all the "ugliness" of pipes

The frame can be made of a wooden bar or metal profiles. All its elements are carefully measured, cut with a hacksaw, metal shears or a grinder, and during installation they are aligned with a level and fastened together with self-tapping screws.

The frame is placed at the bottom of the wall, if it was possible to fit all the wiring in this particular area. For sewers, a separate frame for the box is often built.

If necessary, the entire wall is covered with a frame. But, both in the first and in the second case, it is necessary to provide a window that will provide access to all wiring elements so that in the event of an accident, it can be easily eliminated, without understanding all decorative partition. In addition, one must not forget about free access to valves and water meters - for periodic readings.

In addition to emergency and inspection doors, you need to think about. Very often, ventilation ducts in apartment buildings are located along the back wall of the sanitary unit rooms, and holes for them are arranged under the ceiling of the room. It is impossible to close the ventilation, therefore, it is also necessary to provide a separate box for it in the frame, and install in it, after finishing the finishing work, an exhaust

After mounting the frame, it must be sheathed with a material on which any decorative finish will fit well. Most often, drywall is used for this purpose, but sometimes plywood can also be suitable, the panels from which are fixed to the frame using special self-tapping screws.

After the drywall is fixed to the frame, all its joints must be strengthened with a fiberglass sickle mesh and sealed with putty. In addition, all self-tapping screw caps are also covered with putty, otherwise, over time, rust from them may come through wallpaper, paint, or even through the material of the joints between ceramic tiles.

Next, you need to consider what type of door will be installed in the frame structure. Perhaps, it will depend on this and on the material chosen for finishing when to install elements for its fastening - immediately or after finishing work.

- If the partition will be pasted over washing wallpaper, door, you need to fix it on furniture hinges. In this case, it is installed on the frame immediately.

An easy option is to hang blinds on the wall

- If blinds are used as a door, which is the easiest, they are hung at the end of all finishing work.

- If the surface finishing will be carried out with PVC panels, then the door can be made of the same material installed on a frame made of rails. It is fixed on the lathing slatsdesigned for fastening the panels.

- Another option for mounting the door can be a frame made specifically for the left openings, on which the door is installed. The frame is inserted together with the door into the frame opening after finishing work, and around it is framed with baguette slats.

On a sheathed and puttied partition before installation decorative material it is necessary to apply a primer in two layers and leave to dry.

Ceiling, wall, floor finishing

The toilet can be finished with different materials that have high moisture resistance, can be wet cleaned and are not subject to negative impact chemical detergents. To such decorative coatings include ceramic tiles, PVC panels, washable wallpaper and plaster impregnated with a deep penetration primer.

For the floor, of course, the simplest and most reliable solution will be ceramic tiles. From innovative technologies - coating can be self leveling epoxy floors. They have another name - because due to the multi-layer and transparency of the material, it is possible to create three-dimensional images.

Consider the most popular, affordable and self-assembly finishing materials.

Ceramic tile

The best option for the decoration of the walls and floor of the toilet, ceramic tiles are considered. It has numerous advantages over other finishing materials, both in terms of performance and decorative features. Moreover, a great variety of collections are on sale, differing both in design and in price - you can always choose the right option for a particular one.

Before laying the tiles, it is necessary to check the walls for evenness. If they have deformation or bevels, they must be leveled with putty or drywall sheets.

With drywall - much easier, the work process is faster, and after its completion there is not much dirt left. Drywall can be fixed to the walls with a special adhesive and fixed in several places with dowels. The seams between the sheets are sealed in the same way as on the casing of the previously installed box.

With very uneven walls, drywall must be fixed on the crate installed on the walls.

However, there are difficulties in this matter - if profiles are used for the crate, they will “eat” a significant part and so small area toilet, because they are often used instead wooden slats only 15 ÷ 20 mm thick.

After leveling the walls with drywall and covering them with a primer, you can begin to lay ceramic tiles on the dried surface.

The installation process of this material starts from the floor. Control over the evenness of the rows and the fit of the tiles to the wall must be carried out constantly, using the building level. In order for the seams between the tiles to be the same, plastic crosses are used to calibrate their width.

If individual tiles require adjustment - their reduction or removal of some part of them, cutting is done with a special tile cutter or glass cutter, which is carried out several times along the same line, and then the excess part is separated from the tile with pliers. You can also cut with a grinder by installing a diamond or corundum wheel on it for cutting ceramics.
Tiles are laid on a specially designed tile adhesive. It is applied to the walls with a notched trowel and spread over the surface.
Having completed the laying, the seams between the tiles are sealed with a special grout (fugue), matched in tone to common color premises.

After finishing the walls, you can proceed to tiling the pre-leveled floor. To prepare it, it is best to use a self-leveling compound - it will need quite a bit, and the floor will learn to be perfectly even. A lot of useful information on working with such can be found in a special article of our portal.

Laying ceramic tiles on the floor has its own specific features - both in terms of choosing a tile, and in the technology of working with it. More about that - in a special publication of our portal.

Video: budget toilet transformation with ceramic tiles

PVC panels

Fixing PVC panels to walls is much easier than laying tiles. No mortar, "dirty and wet" work is needed. The panel fastening technology is simple and intuitive. The main thing is control for observance of verticality and horizontality, attentiveness and accuracy.

plastic panels you can level any surface by correctly installing the crate, which will hide all the irregularities.

The panels, however, are not as durable as well-laid tiles, but they also have a much lower price. In addition, once having made a crate on the walls under them, the owners get the opportunity to change the finishing material as they get tired of its colors, or when it becomes sloppy.

So, the work proceeds in stages as follows:

Before mounting the panels on the walls, they are mounted on the ceiling. If you plan to install built-in ceilings on the ceiling lighting, then all measurements are made in advance, since the lamps have a certain height, and the ceiling will have to be lowered somewhat during their installation.

An important note - the processes of paneling the ceiling and walls in the article are somewhat spaced only for a better perception of the features. In fact, the crate for both the ceiling and the walls is prepared at the same time, and only then do they move on to fixing the panels according to the “floor → ceiling” scheme.

- For this, a crate of metal profiles or wooden bars is fixed on the ceiling. Further, wiring is fixed between the elements of the crate - its ends are located at the points where the lamps will be installed. It is clear that the cables must not be connected to the power supply during installation.

- At the junctions of the crate and wall, moldings are fixed for internal corners- they are in the figure below, placed at number four. Facing panels will be installed in their grooves.

- Holes are made on the panels for lighting elements.

On the primed surface of the walls with the help of dowels, wooden laths of the crate are fixed. If it is planned to install the PVC lining vertically, then the crate is fixed horizontally, and vice versa - when it is installed in a horizontal position, the crate is mounted vertically.

To save toilet space, the slats should not be thicker than 20 mm, and their width can be 30 mm or more. It is advisable to immediately align them vertically, making linings in the right places through which fasteners will pass, fixing both the rail and the lining on the wall at the same time.

Reiki are installed at a distance of 400 ÷ 500 mm from each other.

The crate is usually attached to the wall with dowels. To do this, holes in the wall are drilled through the rails, and then plastic dowels are hammered into the wall. A rail is applied to the marked place and screwed to the wall with a self-tapping screw.

- Next, a guide is fixed to the bottom rail, into which the end parts of the panels will be inserted. To do this, you need a molding called "starter", it is shown in the figure at number seven.

- Under the ceiling, the panels are inserted into moldings for internal corners, which have already been installed during the installation of ceiling panels.

- The same molding is installed at the vertical corners of the room, since panels of two planes will be joined in them.

- The installation of the lining begins from the corner of the room, and the first panel must be inserted into the grooves of three moldings at once - the top, bottom and corner. The panel must be leveled, since the evenness of the entire further row will depend on it.

The lining must be fixed to the crate and this can be done in several ways:

- Hammering nails into the hidden part of the lining adjacent to the rail.

- Using special metal clamps, which are put on the narrow part of the groove of the lining, and nailed, screwed or shot with staples to the rail. They are convenient in that, if necessary, one or more panels can be pulled out of the general row, without understanding all designs.

- Special clips that do not require additional fastening. They are convenient, but ordinary battens are not suitable for them, but you will need to purchase special guides into which such clips will be installed.

Prices for popular finishing wall panels

Wall panels

Video: an example of wall decoration with PVC panels

Washable wallpaper

Wallpaper that is easy to clean is the most affordable type of finish for the toilet. If you creatively approach the design process and choose the right pattern and shade of wallpaper, you can make an interior that will not be worse than that made using tiles or PVC panels.

The disadvantage of wallpaper can only be called that their service life is much shorter than that of other materials, but their cost is several times lower. They are much more affordable for frequent replacement than tiles or lining.

In order for the wallpaper to look neat on the walls, the surfaces under them must be carefully prepared. The simplest and convenient way wall alignment - these are sheets of drywall. As described above, the installation of drywall is quite simple, and any wallpaper fits perfectly on its surface.

Washing wallpaper is pasted with adjacent strips end to end. If a step-by-step drawing is applied to them, then it must be observed.

The ceiling can also be covered with wallpaper, the same as the walls, or lighter. Since light shades make the room much brighter, you can save on room lighting by installing light bulbs of less power.

To the wallpaper you will need to choose the right ceiling and floor plinths, which will harmoniously fit the main finish in terms of color and style.

Plumbing installation

The final stage of work is the return to the place of the toilet bowl, cistern and sink.

Toilet

Since the toilet, whatever one may say, is the most important element of the toilet room, it is installed in the first place.

To begin with, the markup of its location is carried out. The toilet is placed on the floor and circled with a marker. Immediately mark the places of its attachment to the floor, as it will be necessary to drill holes for the dowels.

Next, the toilet is temporarily removed to the side, and in semi drilled holes for fasteners into which dowels or anchors are hammered.
The toilet is installed in place and firmly screwed to the floor. Usually, plastic decorative caps are provided in the set of fasteners that will cover the head of the bolt or stud.
Next, a socket is put on the toilet pipe corrugated pipe. The corrugation opens to the desired length, bends and its second end, equipped with rubber sealing rings-cuffs, is inserted into the socket of the sewer pipe.

Then, you need to connect the tank to the toilet. There are different models of toilet bowl sets with a cistern.

- In some of them, the tank is installed and fixed directly on a special toilet bowl platform. In this case, the kit must include the necessary fasteners and sealing sealing elements, and mounting holes are provided in the toilet bowl and cistern.

- In other cases, the tank is attached to the wall and connected to the toilet with a pipe that supplies water for flushing into it.

After installing the tank and assembling the drain mechanism in accordance with the instructions attached to it, it is necessary to connect the water supply hose - to the tank and to the corresponding fitting on the water supply.

The last step in installing the toilet is to seal the gap between it and the floor with a sealant, it will increase the reliability of the installation and give the joint accuracy.

There are a lot of toilet models, and it is simply impossible to consider everything. Several can be found in a separate publication of our portal.

Sink

If you want to hide all the ugly pipe connections under the sink, you should purchase a model mounted on a pedestal. This structural element will close all unsightly places and serve as a reliable additional support for the bowl.

Before fixing the sink to the wall, it is recommended to immediately install the faucet on it and connect flexible hoses to it. Also pre-mounted top part drain system, consisting of a socket and a piece of pipe, on which a siphon will be installed in the future. After installing the sink in place, it will be extremely inconvenient to carry out these procedures.

Next, the sink needs to be fixed to the wall. It can be installed on special brackets fixed in the right place, or attached directly to the wall surface using anchors.
After the sink is fixed, the flexible hoses are screwed to the outlets for water supply. threaded fittings. It is recommended to additionally install taps on the fittings, which in case of emergency will help to locally shut off the water. In this case, the hoses are screwed to the threaded fitting of the tap.

Now it is necessary to install and seal the siphon, and then connect the waste corrugated hose coming from it into the sewer pipe prepared in the floor or in the wall, sealed with a special rubber sleeve or cuff. The installation of the waste siphon is completed by a mandatory leak test with a test spill of water.
The last step in the installation of the sink is the closure of all pipes and the siphon with a pedestal. It is installed under the sink and marks are made for drilling holes in the floor for fasteners.

The pedestal is then removed semi drilled holes into which dowels or anchors are hammered. After that, the pedestal returns under the sink and is fixed to the floor. With its upper part, it should support the sink.

After assembly - mandatory check by spilling a large amount of water

After completing the installation of plumbing, it is necessary to conduct a verification test for leaks. If there are no drops of water on the pipes and taps, it means that the installation was carried out with high quality, and the plumbing is ready for operation.

If the owners of the apartment have creative inclinations, although some skills in the construction business, and main- desire, then even with a minimum budget, you can put the toilet in order.