Wall plastering. How to putty the walls with your own hands with finishing putty. video about puttying walls for painting

Aligning the walls with a conventional sand-cement mortar, especially in the absence of skills, is problematic. It is the putty that makes the walls perfectly smooth. It is applied and leveled easily, so even a non-professional can work with it.

putty(putty) is called a pasty mixture, with the help of which surfaces are leveled: ceilings, walls, joints between drywall sheets etc. B trading network it comes both in the form of a dry powder, which is further diluted with water, and in the form of a ready-made solution.

Unlike sand-cement mortar, putty is more viscous and has less weight, so it is much easier to level it. It hardens more slowly than a conventional cement mortar, and some types of putty, after partial hardening, can be re-diluted with water. Thanks to all these qualities, it is possible to work with it even in the absence of special skills.

Perhaps the only drawback of the putty is its lower strength than that of the sand-cement mortar. So that it does not crack when it dries, it should be applied in a small layer up to 1.5 cm. The next layer is applied only after the previous one has completely dried. The finishing putty is more liquid and plastic, so it is applied in an even smaller layer - from 1 mm.

Types of putties (ready mixes). Which one to choose?

There is simply no single “correct” putty. It is selected according to specific conditions operation. Depending on the type of binder, all putties are divided into:


In addition to cement, gypsum and polymers, special modifying additives are introduced into the putty, which increase its viscosity and slow down the drying process.

According to the purpose, putties are divided into:

  • Starting: for applying the main draft layer and leveling sufficiently large elevation differences; for better adhesion, dry mixes have larger grain sizes (fractions) than those of finishing compounds;
  • Finishing: for final finishing of a surface and fixing of the first layer; more viscous and fluid, applied only in a thin layer - with excessive thickness, they can form wavy curvatures; if necessary, easily polished;
  • Universal: combine the properties of starting and finishing compositions, do not require the application of a fixing finishing layer.

The manufacturer always indicates the exact consumption of putty on the packaging. On average, for finishing 1 sq. m layer of 1 cm will need 10-15 liters of the finished solution. If the thickness of the superimposed layer is greater, the consumption increases accordingly.

When preparing walls and ceilings for wallpaper or decorative (Venetian) plaster, a mirror-smooth surface is not needed - it is enough to achieve only surface leveling. For these purposes, both gypsum and cement starting or universal compositions are suitable.

Ready mixes of famous brands

With a small amount of work, it is more convenient to purchase ready-made mixtures on acrylic or vinyl backing that do not require additional breeding. In addition, such solutions are more plastic, set more slowly and are ideal for beginners. Often they are also used for finishing for painting to obtain a perfectly flat and smooth surface.

A high-quality mixture should have a uniform structure without impurities, be soft and elastic, easy to apply and not crack after hardening. The most popular mixtures include the compositions of well-known brands:

  • Vetonit (Finland): time-tested reputation, almost odorless, very plastic and economical; the only drawback is the high price;
  • Finishing plaster mix Rotband: made in Russia according to german technology Knauf, its popularity is due to low consumption, sufficiently high ductility and reasonable price;
  • Ceresit (German concern Henkel): affordable prices with good quality and a wide range;
  • Osnovit (Russia): relatively inexpensive, but very good mixtures, easy to apply and grind;
  • Bergauf: another major Russian brand, flexible and easy-to-use formulations at affordable prices.

Required Tools

The first step is to purchase at least two or three spatulas:

Painting spatulas with a thinner and more flexible surface are recommended for work inside the house. However, experts say that for perfect surface alignment, excessive flexibility is useless. Therefore, even for interior decoration it is better to arm yourself with more durable facade spatulas. They are
must be made of high-quality stainless steel and not bend even with strong pressure. Pay Special attention on the handle - one should lie in the hand as comfortably as possible.

If you rarely work with putty and do not have the necessary skills, it is also advisable to purchase angle spatula with a fairly rigid canvas, bent at 90 °. Although, in principle, the corners can be successfully aligned with an ordinary spatula.

We may also need:


What are beacons and why do we need them?

Too "curved" walls with large differences in height are more reasonable to level with drywall. This will not only be much cheaper, but will also save you from the rather laborious work of puttying. Small areas, even with significant differences in height, can be completely leveled with plaster.

If a very large layer is required, it is better to level the wall first sand-cement mortar, and finish with putty.

It is simply unrealistic to determine the differences in the wall “by eye”. Therefore, before proceeding with the alignment, the curvature of the walls is checked building level(usual bubble or laser).

But how to determine the thickness of the future layer? In this case, simple, but very useful devices called beacons will come to the rescue. With large surface differences, metal or gypsum profiles are used as beacons. Their vertical position on the wall is regulated by mortar slaps placed under such a profile. Naturally, this whole process is controlled by the building level. If one of the sides of the profile is raised too much, part of the solution is removed. On the contrary, if the solution and its layer is small, it must be added.

In small areas, only slaps of mortar without using a profile can serve as beacons:

  • They are distributed along the wall equal distance from each other, the thickness of their application is regulated by the building level;
  • The distance between the beacons should be equal to the width of the rule: with the help of it, the solution will be “stretched” between the beacons.

Further alignment of the solution between the beacons is carried out in zigzag movements only upwards - so that the solution does not settle under its own weight. At one time, a distance equal to the width of the rule should close.

Before applying the first draft layer, be sure to prime the walls. The primer will harden the surface and increase the bond between the wall and the leveling compound.

Technologies for applying putty with a spatula

Before starting work, the surface is thoroughly cleaned of dirt and pieces. old plaster. All cracks must be widened and loose plaster must be knocked out of them. Then dust is removed from the walls with a broom or vacuum cleaner.

Walls that do not have too large differences are leveled with a wide spatula 400-600 mm:


When applying a large number of layers, it is better to use a paint grid. This will give you a stronger surface.

Corner Alignment

If we aligned the walls perfectly, the corners will come out by themselves and no additional efforts will be required to align them. If you do not trust your abilities too much, you can use plastic in the corners perforated corners with reinforced mesh (they are called countershuls). They are installed simultaneously with the alignment of walls and ceilings - they “sit” on the putty, press it into it with a little effort, checking the verticality of the location with a building level, and then remove the excess solution with a spatula. However, the corners with counter-shoulders will be slightly rounded due to the peculiarities of the profiles.

If you are planning on thick wallpapering and decide not to bother with perfect alignment of the walls, it is still worth it to bring the corners together. After all, even if they seem perfectly straight to you, next to furniture or household appliances, even a small flaw can catch your eye. Aligning the corners is done last after finishing the walls and ceilings, but, of course, even before finishing.

Counter-shoulders are very convenient to use for leveling jambs. Reinforced with plastic, they become more durable, and the risk of accidentally damaging them and falling out of the plaster will be much less.

Finishing putty

The finishing layer is used for the final leveling of the surface, fixing the first layer and protecting it from cracking. Finishing putty is applied after the starting or beacon layer. The compositions for application should have a finely dispersed structure so that after the final finishing the wall looks perfectly smooth, without pores and even slight roughness.

Work with finishing composition has its own characteristics. It is more fluid, so it should be applied in a very thin layer up to 1 mm (some manufacturers offer putty, which is applied to the surface with a layer of 0.1 mm):

  • In order for the putty to lie perfectly evenly, before applying it, it is better to carefully spray it with water or wipe it with a sponge; such moistening can increase the setting time of the solution, and you can, without hurrying, perfectly smooth the wall;
  • When working with a finely dispersed putty with a small application thickness, such wetting is a prerequisite - otherwise it will quickly seize, and it simply will not work to level it with high quality;
  • All movements with a spatula are made in a vertical direction crosswise;
  • Surface treatment is carried out with slight pressure and at a slight angle;
  • Before each application, the spatula is wiped with a damp cloth; if it is required to pass over the surface again, the remnants of the putty are also removed from the tool web, and it is thoroughly wiped;
  • In places where the corners of the spatula pass, small stripes may remain; it is not necessary to smooth them - after drying they are removed with sandpaper with a fine abrasive.

Make sure that the thickness of the applied layer does not exceed 1.5 mm, otherwise it will not only be uneven, but may also crack in the future.

Grout

Our wall is almost ready. But even after finishing, the ideal is still far away. Now we will remove everything, even the most subtle drops, depressions and bumps, scratches and other flaws.

Smoothing out large irregularities is done even before the surface is completely dry - at the moment when the mortar sets well and will not be smeared on the wall. This is done with an abrasive (sandpaper or abrasive mesh) grades P60.

Sandpaper can only rub a small surface. To work with large surfaces, it is better to purchase a special grater on which sandpaper or an abrasive mesh is fixed. The small holes of the abrasive mesh are not clogged with dust, so it is much more convenient to work with it. To remove irregularities in the corners, special abrasive bars with sharp corners are used.

If you want to get the most glossy effect and even, almost mirror surface, you will need another grout with the finest grain P120, which is done 3-4 hours after the first. Grouting of an already completely dried wall is carried out after abundant wetting of the surface with water.

Decorative putty

The simplest way to obtain a relief surface is to roll over a fresh putty with a special roller having a relief surface. In this case, the pressure should be uniform, without tearing the tool off the wall.

A very peculiar texture is obtained with a spatula with jagged edges. When running the tool on wet plaster at different angles, you can get both symmetrical (waves, scales) patterns and chaotic relief. You can imitate Venetian plaster with an ordinary sponge or brush, which is pressed into a dry mortar at different angles.

Thus, do-it-yourself wall puttying is quite time-consuming and laborious, but not such a difficult task. You can learn more about the technique of wall puttying using the following training video:

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Watching the work of professional plasterers, you will involuntarily admire: everything is so smooth and even they succeed. It seems that it is simply impossible to repeat this with your own hands. This is not true. Puttying is not a complicated job that does not require specialized knowledge. We will describe in detail how to properly putty walls, how to choose the composition of the mixture and what tools you need to work.

Putty - a leveling layer to eliminate minor wall defects

Putty is a mixture of water with a dry composition. The dry composition may include only gypsum powder or gypsum powder with the addition of chalk, plasticizers or other fillers.

Often the question arises: from putty. In fact, no one knows the answer to it. The composition of putty and putty is the same, the application method is also identical. So it turns out that both of these names refer to the same material intended for leveling walls.

What is putty for?

The main task of putty is a perfectly flat surface suitable for painting or. Not a single repair is complete without a gypsum mixture; this material is used at the final stage of finishing.Putty is applied in several thin layers, each of which fills the smallest irregularities on the surface. With this composition, you can fill irregularities up to 2 cm deep.

Important! Professionals do not advise applying a putty mixture with a thick layer; it can fall off within a couple of days after the repair is completed.

On average, one layer of putty should not exceed 7 millimeters, and finishing layer- no more than 2 millimeters.

How to choose a putty knife for wall putty

Assortment of tools for plastering works very big. AT hardware store eyes just run up, what to choose?For puttying, you will need a wide flat metal spatula with a smooth edge and a spatula - spatula.


When choosing a facade spatula, pay attention to its edge: it is important that it be perfectly even, without nicks. The metal on the edge should not bend. To work outside the building, use a tool up to 60 centimeters wide. For interior work, 30-40 cm wide is enough.

Small spatulas are designed for accurate processing of corners. If you decide to do such work for the first time, do not take a very wide tool, it will be more convenient for small ones to work.

Another important point in the selection of a spatula is its weight. The lighter the tool, the better.It is convenient if the second spatula, spatula, wooden handle. She does not slip in her hand. The spatula is selected in such a size that it is convenient to scoop the mixture from the bucket.

The metal part of the tool must be made of stainless steel. Any other option is not suitable, as it will quickly rust from contact with water and will leave marks on the treated surface. On sale you can find spatulas made of durable plastic, but they are much more expensive than metal ones.


Which putty is better and how to choose the composition for the walls

Putty mixtures can have different fillings, let's take a closer look at each type:

Type of mixtureApplication featuresApplication area

Acrylic
Acrylic-based putty is elastic and resistant to high humidity. As a result you will get flat surface, resistant to mechanical damage and non-shrinking and non-cracking.Exterior and interior works, leveling, roughing, starting and finishing

Latex
The plastic mixture forms very thin layers that do not crack or fall off. This finish reacts negatively to lower temperatures.For interior decoration only

Gypsum
Used for leveling walls, can be applied in a thick layer. It reacts badly to moist air and is destroyed by water. Not resistant to mechanical stress.For internal works

Cement
Not afraid of negative temperatures, does not react to humidity, resistant to mechanical damage. When applied, it shrinks, and during operation it may crack.Suitable for facade works and interior decoration

It is impossible to give an unambiguous answer which of the listed mixtures is better. For different conditions, you need to select the appropriate compositions. For the facade of the building, it is better to take cement putty, for or - acrylic, for living rooms- latex. If you are thinking about what - take a plaster one.

How to choose a putty mixture for different types of finishes

The putty mixture can be divided into three types by purpose:

  • universal;
  • finishing;
  • starting.

The difference lies in the grain size of the filler. The starting mixture has larger fractions. With its help, you can level surfaces with significant damage: cracks, drops, potholes. The starting putty can be applied in a layer of 2 centimeters thick. It is thrown directly onto a layer of plaster and leveled using the rule.

The task of the finishing layer is to complete the alignment before application. The fractions of this mixture are very small, and the resulting layer looks smooth and even. The final putty has a layer no thicker than 5 mm.The universal mix can be used both as a starter and as a finishing coat. Such compositions are used in cases where the walls do not have significant defects.

Expert point of view

Dmitry Kholodok

Technical director of the repair and construction company "ILASSTROY"

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“If there are significant flaws on the surface to be treated, take the starting and finishing mixture, and not one universal one. Universal costs more. In addition, the result from the use of two mixtures is much better.”

Fundamentals of wall puttying technology

- an expensive part of the construction budget. If you want to save money, do it yourself. It’s scary just before starting work, after the first wall the process will improve.

The main thing is to follow the sequence of work, clearly dividing the stages and fulfilling all the requirements.Let's look at how to properly putty walls for painting or wallpaper.

How to properly prepare and prime the walls

Foundation preparation is a critical stage of work. The result of your efforts depends on it. If the walls were wallpapered or painted, all layers decorative coating need to be removed. The wallpaper can be soaked so that it easily lags behind the wall. Particularly resistant layers should be treated with hot steam.

The paint is much more difficult to remove. You can mechanize the process using a drill with a nozzle. But cleaning must be done very carefully, otherwise then you will have to devote a lot of time to puttying. It is better to peel off the paint by hand, using sandpaper attached to a wooden block.

Important! In the process of cleaning the walls, a suspension of cement, whitewash and dust will hang in the air. Be sure to use a respirator for respiratory protection.

Oil paint can be softened with a solvent, but all such compounds have a pungent odor, you can only work in a well-ventilated area.After cleaning the wall from the decorative coating, sweep it with a brush and wipe it with a slightly damp cloth. So you remove the remaining dust and debris.

In fact, a primer is an adhesive that forms a strong film on the wall. It consists of various components: resin, lime, bitumen, alum. If you want to know if the primer is suitable for your walls, look at the recommendations for use on the packaging of the composition. There are mixtures designed for processing metal, concrete, plastic.

How to make putty with your own hands

You can cook on your own. In this case, it will cost you a little cheaper, and in terms of quality it will not be inferior to the purchased composition. The ingredients for the mixture are not difficult to find, you will need the usual gypsum powder and chalk, which is used for whitewashing. For solidification and plasticity, a solution is added to the chalk laundry soap, wood glue, drying oil and varnish. In the manufacturing process, chalk and gypsum are first mixed dry, and then the powder is poured into the adhesive solution. And now a few putty recipes for different surfaces:

IngredientspurposePeculiarities
Chalk - 2 kg

Gypsum - 1 kg

Wood glue solution 3-5%

Concrete walls, alignment of seams on plasterboard slabs. Designed for dry rooms.Hardens quickly after application. This mixture should be prepared in small portions.
Chalk - 1 kg

Joiner's glue - 100 gr

Drying oil - 1 kg

For finishing wooden surfaces, which will subsequently be colored oil paint. Suitable for rooms with high humidity. Slowly hardens, forming an airtight film. For preparation, heated glue is mixed with drying oil and then chalk is poured.
Chalk - 2 kg

Wood glue solution 10%

Drying oil - 25 gr

Laundry soap - 50 gr

Designed for plastering ceilings and plastered walls.Soap must be dissolved in a small amount of water, add glue to the desired percentage and then add chalk.

Aligning the walls with your own hands with “home” putty is no different from working with a factory mixture.

How to prepare a factory-made mixture

To prepare the mixture, you need to pick up clean dishes and, preferably, construction mixer. Manually kneading putty without lumps is difficult and physically difficult.

Do not try to mix the whole package at once, especially if you are new to this business. The composition dries quickly, so while you are training on small area walls, the whole batch may freeze and have to be thrown away.

For kneading, use water at room temperature. After preparing the putty, let it stand for a quarter of an hour. The consistency of the finished putty should be similar to thick sour cream. If you have prepared a polymer, acrylic or latex mixture and did not have time to fully use it, fill the container with putty with water. Next time, carefully drain the surface layer of water and use the composition.

Alignment of walls with starting putty

What does the process of starting puttying the walls with your own hands look like:

IllustrationDescription of works
Mix the mixture according to the instructions on the package of the mixture. Use a construction mixer for a quality batch.
Scoop up a thick mixture with a spatula and apply to the spatula, distributing along the entire length.
From the bottom up, apply putty to the surface. Fill in the section of the wall like this.
With a wide spatula, smooth out all the seams formed from the bottom up and sideways.
After the putty has hardened, level the surface with sandpaper.

For a beginner in this business, video material on how to putty walls with your own hands:

Video instruction: how to properly putty walls with beacons

You are lucky if the main surface is made with high quality, in compliance with the level and without major flaws. If not, you can level it or putty.For an ideal result on an uneven wall, beacons will be required. To expose them, you need to pull the thread along the wall, vertically and diagonally. The direction of the thread should be checked with a building level.

After the marks have dried, the main puttying work is carried out.

How to correctly align the walls with putty on the lighthouses, in the following video material:

How to apply finishing putty on the wall

As a finishing layer, you need to use a polymer composition - acrylic or latex.

IllustrationDescription of works
For kneading finish coat you need to carefully measure the proportions and prepare the amount of water that is recommended in the instructions.
The mixture is poured into water, and not vice versa. It is necessary to mix the solution thoroughly until the consistency of sour cream is obtained.
To apply the finishing layer, use a spatula with a width of 30-40 centimeters
The first layer of the top coat should be the thinnest, it will help to reveal all existing irregularities.
The second layer of putty is applied only a day later, after the first has completely dried.

Beginners are most often faced with the question of how to work with a spatula. Not everyone gets it right the first time. Pay attention to the video recommendation on how to apply finishing putty on the wall:

Related article:

We will talk about the different compositions and purposes of solutions, methods for their preparation, necessary tools and materials, as well as the application technology itself.

How to sand the walls after puttying

No matter how hard you try, after the finishing layer of putty on the wall there will be traces of a spatula. If they are not removed, they will show through. The final step is to sand the surface. This is a laborious task, but without polishing you will never achieve the desired result.

The technology of wall puttying for painting or wallpaper gives recommendations on the sequence of work in order to end up with a high-quality result when finishing the room. Putty can perfectly level the surface of the walls, prepare them for the finish coat. What does the puttying of the walls offer, the article will tell.

The main purpose of putty is to level the surface after plastering. The process of puttying walls for painting is quite easy to do with your own hands, before that having studied the recommendations and the technology of work.

There are a lot of options for preparing putty, its choice depends on the type of walls, the characteristics of the room, and the presence of high humidity in it.

Tip: When choosing any putty option, you should take into account the individual characteristics of the room during its operation.

In addition to finishing the room, there is material for external works. Its difference is in additional resistance to temperature changes, moisture and solar radiation.

Advantages of using putty:

  • You can easily and quickly complete the finishing process.
  • Affordable price of materials.
  • The possibility of obtaining a flat and absolutely smooth surface.
  • Variety of compositions according to their purpose.

What tools are needed when puttying the surface of the walls

Drywall puttying technology (see Drywall Puttying: Practical Tips and Useful Information) or other materials indicates right choice tool that is used in the process.

In this case, you will need:

  • An electric drill, with a special mixer nozzle, which will be needed to mix the solution to the desired consistency. Special nozzle allows you to get a high-quality mixture, without lumps and additional inclusions.
  • A set of spatulas. Several spatulas are needed to perform certain functions. For example, with a small spatula, work is carried out in hard-to-reach places, it also applies material to a large spatula, the width of which is 35-50 centimeters.
  • A set of brushes and rollers for applying a primer. This is a mandatory process performed before and after puttying. The primer solution allows you to give the surface an antiseptic effect, which prevents the appearance of fungus and mold on the walls. In addition, the coating increases the adhesion between the base of the wall and the putty.
  • To align the walls, you will need a rule to identify and eliminate all existing irregularities.
  • To control the unevenness of the walls, if any, a spirit or laser level is used.
  • Sandpaper will be required when sanding the surface to give it perfect smoothness (see How to sand the walls after puttying). After applying the starting putty, it is recommended to use skins of medium grain, and after finishing - very fine.
  • To speed up the process of grinding the wall, you will need a manual skinner.
  • To stir the putty, a container with a volume of approximately 10 liters is required.

Tip: This list of tools should be purchased before you start puttying the walls.

How to choose materials for puttying walls

Putty is a paste-like material that allows you to prepare the base of the wall for its finishing.

According to the degree of readiness, the material can be:

  • Dry composition requiring additional dilution with water(see How to breed putty for self-repair). The advantages of this mixture:
  1. affordable cost;
  2. the ability to prepare the composition of any consistency;
  3. ease of breeding;
  4. simply transported;
  5. long shelf life.

Material deficiency:

  1. the presence of additional operations for the preparation of the solution before application, which increases the time of work;
  2. the finished composition has a limited period of use, it must be diluted in small portions.

Everyone who at least once faced with questions repair work, familiar with the puttying process. Thus, the walls are trimmed, wooden details, and many other surfaces. No fine finish is possible without preliminary puttying of the surface. It is putty that will help make the wall perfect - without roughness, cracks, bumps and other flaws. There are many varieties of this material - in addition to different purposes, there are different types putties, in their appearance and the result obtained. Which one to choose and how to use - let's figure it out together.

Why do you need to putty?

Sometimes it happens that, having removed the old wallpaper, it turns out that the walls are not so uneven. Often there is such a gift from builders as a slab on which there are no dents or cracks and it seems that there is simply no need to putty it. Actually this is a delusion! There are two types of puttying work, directly as preparatory work:

In this case, the preparation of the walls is exactly what is needed to align them if they are crooked, especially for corners, arches and similar joints. For such processing, not the most expensive putties are usually used, since there is no need to obtain an ideal appearance - the finished wall will still be covered with wallpaper from above. After applying the putty and drying it completely, such surfaces are usually cleaned with sandpaper to get a smooth finish. white surface. Its roughness will even be an additional adhesion of the wallpaper to the wall.

This is a more painstaking and clean type of putty work. Firstly, such a surface must be truly perfect, without scratches, cracks and similar defects. Secondly, even microscopic cracks should be absent, since it is precisely because of them that the destruction of the paint layer may occur in the future. This will completely spoil the quality of the coating and its appearance.

To perform high-quality putty for painting, the multi-layer coating technology will be correct. In this case, various types of putties are used, which are applied sequentially one after another, as well as additional reinforcing agents - reinforcement with fiberglass, non-woven fabric and similar materials specially designed for this.

It is advisable to use the same type of putty for surfaces that are in plain sight - window slopes, ceilings and so on.

What are putties?

Even with a huge abundance of various putties on store shelves, in fact, there are not many types of this material. According to their purpose, they are divided into two groups:

  • Starting

As the name implies, it is necessary for the initial alignment of the walls, subject to their unevenness. They are made from chalk, a gypsum component and a filler of a fairly large fraction - usually crushed perlite or pumice.

Starting putties are used for rough leveling of surfaces of walls, ceilings or slopes and can be applied in a thick layer. Due to its composition, this material hardens quickly, which allows you to treat the surface layer by layer, without waiting for a long drying of the previous layer.

These putties are sold dry, packaged in bags - for use they must be diluted in the right amount clean water. Usually, breeding recommendations are indicated on the packaging and may differ from manufacturer to manufacturer, therefore, you need to approach this process responsibly.

Ready-to-use putties are sold in buckets of various sizes, but still, even the largest of them are not sufficient for finishing. large areas. It is advantageous to take such a putty “for a test” - in order to understand whether this type of material of this particular manufacturer is suitable for you, you can buy putty in a bucket, and then, for a complete repair of the entire area, purchase the same dry form.

Starting putties can also, if necessary, be reinforced with mesh or fiber. Such strengthening is especially important in the presence of strong defects near the walls, a weak foundation, or in new buildings, when the shrinkage of the building has not yet been completed.

  • Finishing

Designed for surface finishing. Such a putty works on an already dried starting putty. It is always applied in a thin layer - the maximum it can be up to three millimeters. The dried finishing putty forms a dense hard layer without cracks and chips.

Finishing putties are commercially available in two forms: dry and ready-to-use. Dry mix - diluted in water, similarly to the starter, in accordance with the instructions on the package. It is important to thoroughly stir the powder to the desired consistency, so that no lumps remain. For high-quality mixing, it is most convenient to use a special construction mixer, which is driven by a conventional perforator. Ready putty from dry powder cannot be stored for a long time, as it quickly hardens upon contact with open air.

Finishing putties, ready to use, are sold in buckets of various sizes. This is very convenient, in terms of the fact that, if necessary, you can purchase a small amount of the product. Also, ready-made putty is convenient in that it can be used immediately after opening the package, however, it is still desirable to mix it - this may be necessary, since during storage it can delaminate and become heterogeneous.

Types of putties

In addition to separating the material according to its intended purpose - starting and finishing, putties also amaze with their diversity in varieties. Here the type of putty is determined by the feedstock from which it is made. In fact, modern manufacturers have in their arsenal a wide range of initial components for putties. What exactly are they and what is their difference? The main three types of putties used in the construction market can be described as follows:

As the name implies, it is made on the basis of gypsum. This product is distinguished, firstly, by its dazzling whiteness, and secondly, by its plasticity. Also important is the property of gypsum to absorb and release moisture when interacting with the surrounding air. Walls treated with gypsum putty can create a favorable microclimate in the room, thanks to the proper circulation of moisture.

Naturally, this type of putty is only suitable for interior work, since gypsum does not perform well in outdoor work. Ideally, it is suitable for work on - since these materials have a common structure.

It is easier to putty a plasterboard wall than usual, since it does not need to be leveled - just seal the seams and the places where the sheets are attached. Gypsum putty is produced both starting and finishing.

It is also clear that its main ingredient is cement. Accordingly, the properties of cement perfectly coexist in it: moisture resistance, immunity to temperature extremes from frost to summer heat. This putty is convenient to use both indoors and outdoors - as it is resistant to atmospheric phenomena.

For interior decoration, it can be used in conditions of high humidity and steam generation, for example, kitchen, bathroom, swimming pools and the like. The disadvantage of cement-based putty is its rough structure - this is also caused by its main component - cement. It is quite difficult to process and grind after drying. Typically, such putty is used for finishing with tiles, and similar materials that can hide a layer of plaster.

Most modern material, made from chemical raw materials, on modern equipment. It has a dense structure and a plastic consistency - suitable for leveling walls and for finishing. Acrylic putty is easy to apply, easy to sand, not prone to cracking. It is a kind of universal, because, firstly, it is suitable for processing surfaces from various materials, secondly, because it can be used as a starting putty, and as a finishing one - depending on the needs.

But, because of its not small cost, it is hardly advisable to apply it in a thick layer. Usually, specialists finishing works, prefer to apply acrylic putty in a thin layer, no more than one millimeter, thus performing the finishing touch-up of the surface.

With careful and thorough application, acrylic can look perfectly even, beautiful, even glossy. An important advantage of acrylic putty is its environmental safety.

In addition to these widely popular types, polymer putties are also on sale - they are produced on the basis of acrylates or vinyl compounds. Such products are more expensive and are universal.

Polymer mixtures are gaining popularity - at present they are used, perhaps even more often than gypsum and cement-containing ones. They are easy to use and durable in use. By type, polymer putties are divided into three main groups: acrylic, polymer cement and latex - according to the main ingredient in each of them.

  1. Acrylic polymer putty- characterized by the presence of acrylic in the composition. It can be starting, finishing or universal - depending on the need and purpose of use.
  2. Polymer cement putty- mainly used for leveling cement-concrete, lime and brick substrates. The main component here is cement, to which special polymer additives go. Such a putty has a plastic consistency and can be used both as a starter, for leveling, and as a finish, for final processing.
  3. Latex putty- it is made on the basis of styrene - it is a certain kind acrylic latex. This type of polymer putty is ideal in the form of a finish and is well suited for finishing. various surfaces: drywall, brick, wood, concrete and others.

Polymer putties are very convenient for their special appearance - they are plastic and elastic, which makes them ideal for work. Even amateurs can create a perfectly even layer using polymer materials.

They are also convenient in that they can be applied with the thinnest layer, which is impossible for gypsum or cement putty. However, the minimum thickness does not make the putty layer less durable than those that are applied thicker. It is also important to note the strength characteristics: polymer putty is not subject to shrinkage and cracking. In addition, they are vapor-permeable, that is, they allow the walls to breathe, and are resistant to moisture and have thermal insulation properties.

Polymer putties are sold, just like other analogues, in dry or ready-to-use form. Dry mixes, as a rule, make sense to choose when it comes to finishing large volumes, and ready-made plastic mixes will help out great if you need to finish a small area.

This type of putty is presented on store shelves in three types: starting, finishing and universal. Choosing the right putty is not difficult. Material consumption is indicated on the labels - it is enough to simply calculate required area under decoration.

The only drawback of polymer putties is their high cost. Unfortunately, due to the content of polymers, which simply cannot be cheap due to their cost. Of course, many positive characteristics these materials fully justify their price, so when choosing a material for wall decoration, you should pay attention to polymer putties.

Types of putty application

Having decided on the type of material, it is necessary to choose the method of its application. Putty is usually applied by three traditional methods:

During mechanical application, special installations are used, with the help of which the finished mass is sprayed onto the surface of the walls. Such application is convenient, fast and high quality. But, of course, the purchase of special equipment for domestic needs is not advisable. And, as a rule, putty is applied in this way by specialists in the field of finishing work, during industrial-scale work, large volumes, and so on.

The semi-mechanical method also requires a compressor or pressure tank - in this way the putty is “splashed” onto the walls, which is also much faster than applying it manually, although slower than in the first case.

Manual putty application

Well, the most common way is to apply by hand. Since it is he who is used most often, both by professional builders and those who decide to make repairs on their own for the first time, we will consider it in more detail. For application, a ready-made putty mass is used - prepared independently from a dry powder or already purchased in a ready-to-use form.

  • using a flat paint trowel and a small spatula

A small amount of putty is collected on work surface flat trowel and trowel small size applied and spread over the wall. This method is simple and convenient even for those who have never done such work.

  • putty "bloopers"

This name speaks for itself: putty is applied to the wall with a small spatula in the form of “blunders” - large spots, and then, using a long trowel, the mass is evenly distributed over the entire surface. This method allows you to complete the finish quickly, but physically harder than the previous one, since muscles will be needed to level the material with a trowel, from fifty centimeters long.

  • using two spatulas: main and auxiliary

The main spatula should be about two to two and a half times longer than the auxiliary spatula. For example, spatulas with a length of 45X20 cm or 35X10 cm are well combined. The longer the main spatula, the more effort is needed to work with it.

In the process of application, with an auxiliary spatula, the putty is distributed over the main one and is already transferred to the wall with it. It is important that when distributing the mass, the pressure on the spatula is the same over the entire surface to be treated - then the material will be distributed evenly. The basic principle of applying putty: from dry to wet. That is, it is necessary to work in such a way that each subsequent finished section is connected to the previous one and they can be immediately compared with each other - then the work will be done neatly, without bumps and sagging.

Applying putty is not a difficult process, however, it requires accuracy and some skill. Starting for the first time, you can practice in places that are not too noticeable, fill your hand. When muscle memory remembers hand movements, work will go faster and better. Manual puttying is available to anyone, there are no particularly critical nuances in it.

Do-it-yourself wall putty

Many owners tend to carry out repair work on their own: this is not always caused by the desire to save on the wages of specialists. Many people like to make repairs themselves, taking into account their every wish, or simply because they like this activity. As for the puttying process, there is nothing complicated in it, you just need to purchase a high-quality putty mixture and follow the correct work technology - these two facts will allow you to get a smooth, beautiful wall ready for further finishing.

Training

Before proceeding with the puttying itself, the walls must be properly prepared.

1) Remove the remains of old building materials as much as possible. Traces of varnish, paint, wallpaper - can significantly affect the quality of the finished coating, in the worst case, the remainder of the old varnish may simply fall off after the putty is completed, violating the integrity of the finished layer.

2) Carefully examine the surface for cracks, chips, irregularities. If there are any, then they must first be repaired, flush with the wall, making sure during operation that no bulges appear. After sealing the cracks, it is necessary to wait for the time required for the material to dry completely and only then proceed to the next stage.

3) Thorough cleaning of the walls and the room as a whole. There should be no dust, dirt, greasy spots- all of them must be removed, cleaned, degreased. It is advisable to vacuum the walls to remove small particles of dirt and dust as much as possible.

4) Priming surfaces. The primer must be selected based on the material from which the walls are made, and also, depending on their condition, applied in one or several layers. A primer with antifungal additives is preferred - to prevent the occurrence of mold or similar troubles. The primer should be applied with a brush - a brush or a special roller that can transfer liquid well to the wall.

This stage is important, as well-primed walls have a stronger adhesion to the putty mixture and are protected from damage by fungus. Therefore, you need to try to apply the primer as carefully as possible, without missing a single millimeter. After application, leave the primer alone until completely dry, which is at least six to eight hours, at room temperature in the room. But it is best to leave the walls to dry for a day.

Preparation of putty mixture

If you plan to putty a room, or even more than one, then ready-made putty in buckets will probably not work for you - this, although convenient, is obviously not cheap. Just for processing large areas, a dry putty mixture packaged in bags is perfect, from which you can independently prepare a ready-to-use material. This is not difficult to do, but it is important to observe correct technique cooking:

1) In a clean, preferably plastic, container, pour one third of clean water. Water must be taken cool or even cold, as hot water accelerates the hardening of the finished putty.

2) Dry putty mixture is poured into the water. Quantitatively it is difficult to say exactly, it all depends on the manufacturer and needs. Manufacturers' recommendations and experience will help to resolve this issue.

Firstly, the proportion of water and dry component is always indicated on the packages, which will allow you to get a ready-to-use mass. Secondly, after trying the finished putty prepared according to the instructions, you may need a thicker, or, conversely, a more liquid consistency. Of course, in the process of mixing the mass, a dry product can be added, therefore, initially try not to exceed the amount indicated on the package.

3) For the next step, you will need a construction mixer. Having installed it on the perforator, it is necessary to make the initial mixing of the mixture. Its purpose is to completely moisten the dry powder with water. You need to interfere at low speeds of the tool, in slow circular motions, trying not to scatter the putty around the container.

After the initial mixing, you need to leave the mixture for five to ten minutes, this is necessary so that the water completely soaks the dry putty, and especially the lumps that it contains.

4) Mix again using the same building mixer. This time more intensive mixing is possible. After that, leave the mixture alone again to swell. Thus, it is necessary to make three to four approaches, alternating the processes of mixing and settling the finished mixture. You need to mix for about three minutes, defend - about five. Thus, gradually, the consistency will reach the desired one - medium density and high plasticity.

It is important to prepare not too much putty, as it is not stored in ready-made. AT this case, it is more convenient to get a smaller amount, and, if necessary, finish more. The thickening mixture is also not suitable for dilution with water and further use - since the formation of lumps in this case is simply inevitable. Therefore, thickened or completely hardened putty must be discarded, the container in which it was washed and prepared again.

Wall putty

Proper adherence to the technology of this process requires the application of putty, at least in two layers - starting, and then finishing. But in fact, there may be more layers - depending on the condition of the walls and their visible defects.

1) To apply putties, you will need two spatulas - wide and narrow. A wide spatula should be slightly smaller than the diameter of the container in which the putty is located - this is necessary so that it can fit there. The second, narrow, spatula is needed in order to distribute the putty along the entire length of the wide one, as well as to correct flaws. It can also be used to dial the product on a wide tool - here everyone develops a technique that is convenient for him.

2) The first layer is the starting putty, it is looser and can be applied in a thicker layer than the finishing one. With its help, you can hide minor wall defects - shells, small cracks. It is convenient to apply putty from the bottom up, using a wide spatula. The spatula is held by the handle with three fingers, and two - the middle and index fingers, are stops and it is convenient to adjust the pressing force on the spatula by holding it from above, by the plastic base.

The finished putty is plastic and easy to apply, it must be homogeneous and not contain lumps or other inclusions. It is necessary to apply the solution as evenly as possible, avoiding irregularities or visually noticeable strokes - a wide spatula helps a lot with this. It is desirable to work quickly, since the putty mixture hardens quite quickly and after some fifteen to twenty minutes it will be problematic to correct application errors.

3) You can continue to work only after the first layer is completely dry. If it is supposed to do a lot of layers, then at this stage it would be best to use a reinforcing mesh.

After the layer of starting putty has dried, the network must be fixed to the wall with temporary fasteners, and then a layer of finishing putty should be applied. It must be applied in such a way as to hide the mesh as much as possible, but at the same time, not too thick a layer - the maximum it should be no more than five millimeters. After this layer is applied, you should also wait for it to dry completely. If the reinforcing network is not completely covered by the first layer of putty, then another one must be applied that will hide it completely. This layer should also dry well.

4) The next stage is the application of the main layer. This is the finishing coat High Quality- it is applied very thinly - a couple of millimeters, no more. It must be applied simultaneously, on the entire wall - otherwise, the transitions will be visually noticeable. This layer is not in vain the main one, it should be as even and carefully removed as possible. If, nevertheless, there are minor flaws, then after the work is completed and the putty has dried, they can be cleaned with a fine grinding mesh.

The mesh grain size should be no more than 3 mm cell, otherwise, a thin layer of the finish coating can be damaged and visually noticeable grinding marks can be left. In no case should you use cloth-based sandpaper - after such processing, noticeable traces almost always remain!

The finished surface, finished with putty, dries, depending on the temperature in the room - from 8 to 24 hours. After complete drying, further finishing work is possible.

Rating of the best putties

The modern construction market does not stand still and every year pleases consumers with new products, including putty mixtures. To date, according to the results of customer surveys, certain products are in the lead.

Starting putties

Volma Standard. This starting putty has proven itself both in Russia and abroad. Well suited for leveling surfaces, as well as for fine finishing. Suitable for plaster or cement walls. Worked best when used indoors.

Although this composition is intended for starting application, many experts note that it can also be used to obtain a finished surface, without applying a “finish”, since this putty is easily sanded and leaves no defects behind. This is a high quality material, easy to use and affordable. Among the shortcomings can be called a rather long drying time.

Founding Ecosilk. Product domestic production, firmly established in the market of finishing materials. The putty of this brand is convenient for its plasticity, attractive appearance and, of course, a very affordable cost.

It can be applied in a not too thick layer, preferably up to 5 millimeters. Unfortunately, if this condition is not met, then after drying, cracks may appear on the finished surface.

Bolars Facade. Recognized as the best putty for facades, because of its excellent operational qualities: frost resistance, not susceptibility to precipitation. It can also be used in rooms with high vaporization. It has high resistance to mechanical damage, good vapor permeability, which allows the walls to "breathe" and creates proper circulation moisture in the room.

The maximum allowable layer is up to 10 millimeters, and this is without cracking. Accordingly, this plus entails a minus - a large expense. Also, some unpleasant moment is its high cost.

Finishing putties

Sheetrock SuperFinish rightfully occupies the first place among finishing products. It has the smallest grain size among putties, it is 0.03 millimeters.

This fact allows you to get a smooth, perfect surface with putty, on almost any wall - concrete, and others. Drying, this putty does not crack, again because of its fine structure - it adheres tightly to surfaces and does not peel off. All these advantages are complemented by the quite reasonable cost of the product, which makes it an excellent solution for every buyer.

By the way, until 2016, the putty bucket had a different look. Then the KG Stroy Systems Company transfers the SHEETROCK® line of ready-made putties under the umbrella brand of building materials DANOGIPS.

Knauf Rotband Pasta is a putty based on vinyl compounds. It is universal in terms of treated surfaces, suitable for concrete, gypsum boards and others, has a good adhesive ability.

Another one distinguishing feature: fast drying– about 5 hours. Some disadvantage is that this ready-to-use putty mixture gives a high consumption, even when applied with a thickness of about one millimeter. Also not happy and its high cost of 700 rubles.

Ceresit CT 225 is a cement-based putty. Suitable for both indoor and outdoor work facade decoration. Application on cement bases is possible. Putty has excellent qualities: adhesion, moisture resistance and frost resistance.

It is popular due to the presence of special reinforcing fibers in the composition - they prevent cracking and shrinkage of the finished coating. You should also pay attention to the environmentally friendly composition. Of course, such putty is not cheap.

Universal putties

Knauf is fugen. Perfectly proved when using in rooms, in the conditions of room temperatures. As part of the gypsum-based putty, there are also polymer compounds, which made it possible to make the finished composition elastic. Good adhesive properties.

Suitable for cement or plastered walls. The list of advantages is complemented by low cost and minimal consumption. Despite the versatility, use in rooms with high humidity is not recommended, since the composition is hygroscopic.

VGT acrylic, universal. Completely ready for use immediately after opening the package. Suitable for warm interior spaces, without increased vaporization and moisture. It is possible to apply a thick layer - up to seven millimeters. Suitable for wood, concrete, plaster and cement surfaces. Cons: a rather large consumption, the possibility of shrinkage when the composition dries, and a rather large dustiness during subsequent processing.

UNIS BLIK. Gypsum-based putty. It is convenient because it can be applied in different layers - both thin and thick. According to the manufacturer's recommendations, the application layer can vary from half a millimeter to eight millimeters. It is also convenient and quick drying of the mixture - even with a thick layer it will be no more than seven hours.

The putty is easy to use, elastic and does not form cracks. However, there are also disadvantages: high consumption, the presence of foreign inclusions - pebbles may come across that interfere with the uniform distribution of the mass over the wall surface.

Putty is an invariable attribute of any repair work. Even with smooth walls or plasterboard sheathing, it will still be necessary. Modern manufacturers of building materials daily develop and launch new products in an effort to satisfy the most demanding customers. However, today, from a wide range of proposals, you can choose high-quality putty mixtures that satisfy all necessary needs each individual consumer. On the shelves of building hypermarkets there is a putty suitable for any surface, budget and application possibilities. It is only important to decide what exactly you need and make the right choice.

Puttying the walls is an important stage of repair work. Before we begin to understand the merits of a particular putty or putty for wall decoration, let's clarify whether these materials are different. The Russian dictionary does not distinguish between these words, just one of them “putty” came to us from the German language and is based on the word “spatula” (Spatel) - a spatula or plate with a handle used by doctors and painters.

In construction, such a blade is used to level the surfaces of walls, ceilings and floors, if necessary. The word "putty" (hence - "putty") has a purely Russian root "tow". The cracks in the houses were sealed with tow, using a thin stick or a flexible spatula, wide at one end, and with comfortable handle from another.

Since the German Spatel was the best suited for these works, it “took root” in Russian workshops, and the mixture with which the walls were sealed and leveled was called “putty” or “putty” - it doesn’t matter.

Initially, putty was mixed with their own hands according to their own recipe, the composition practically did not change: a lime-sand mortar, mixed to a state of thick sour cream. Later, oxol (linseed oil), animal glue and chalk were added to the wall putty materials to give the mixture an aesthetic whiteness and additional low shrinkage during solidification.

Modern putty mixtures have also undergone some changes in their composition compared to the last century. Which? This is what we will consider now, and at the same time we will find out what putty is for and whether it is really necessary.

On the video: smooth plaster or smooth putty.

Putty (putty) is a universal fast-hardening finishing composition of special materials used for leveling, repairing walls and other surfaces before the next finishing work.

Judging by the popular name "putty", this mixture is designed to cover cracks, potholes, butt joints and other surface irregularities.

Types of building mixtures

The mixture can be dry (sold in bags) or diluted to the desired consistency - a ready-to-use paste. Both of them have a number of advantages and a number of disadvantages over each other. How to understand all the subtleties yourself, if you have never done puttying before?

The binder component is the basis of all putties-putties. The division of all mixtures into:

  • cement putties;
  • gypsum putties;
  • polymer (acrylic).

Cement

It is clear that the binder in these mixtures is cement, which transfers its best qualities: moisture resistance, durability, resistance to the external environment. Such material is indispensable for finishing rooms with high humidity and sharp drops temperatures (kitchens, bathrooms, etc.)

This is an excellent material for walls outside buildings, but then lime (cement-lime putty) is added to its composition. The main disadvantage is a high degree of shrinkage.

Gypsum

The second name is gypsum plaster. Benefits include:

  • quick "seizure" of the composition;
  • plasticity and ease of use when puttying walls and ceilings;
  • the formation of a smooth, durable surface after drying;
  • does not shrink.

The main plus is that gypsum putty of the walls will be completely invested in a democratic estimate. Among the shortcomings - the material does not have resistance to water, which means that it cannot be used in wet rooms.

Polymeric (acrylic)

The most modern and convenient version of putty mixtures. In terms of adhesion, non-shrinkage, uniformity of drying, complete absence of shrinkage, it has no equal. Due to the fine-grained structure, which gives a very smooth and high-quality-strong surface, acrylic putty can be used not only for wall repairs, but also for pairing parts of different composition.

The mixture is able to hold glass and stone, plastic and fabric, brick and drywall, any putty surface. Ideal for finishing. It - universal option wall plastering work! Of the minuses - the price "bites".

However, the quality of the putty must correspond to the quality of the materials used in construction. Only with this combination can full interaction of materials and high quality of work be achieved.

Specifications, methods of application and mandatory expiration date must be indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging.

Dry and ready mixes

The manufacturer will also offer 2 types of putty mixtures - dry and in the form of a paste. Dry mixtures are characterized small price and long shelf life. In their composition, all the necessary components are in a dry state, and only water and thorough mixing are needed to prepare a technical solution. The elementary nature of these actions and the affordability of prices for such putties makes them leaders in the construction market.

However, there are also negative points: a short period of use of the batch - you will have to mix in small parts and work with a spatula very quickly. The mixture dries up literally before our eyes, so you should hurry.

Wet (ready-made) putties are deprived of such a hardening rate. In addition, they do not require proper mixing instructions, but their shelf life is significantly lower than dry, not yet diluted mixtures. The shrinkage of the paste is also large, and their prices are high. It is more convenient to work with them, on the one hand, on the other hand, it is not recommended to apply them with a layer of less than 2 mm.

If there is a large-scale repair with puttying of large areas, it is better to stop after all on pastes.

If you have to plaster and putty the wall with your own hands, you will need these tools:

  • wide and narrow spatula;
  • building rule;
  • bucket and construction mixer (in the presence of a dry mix);
  • grater for grinding the surface after puttying.

Stages of puttying

The order of puttying the walls is as follows:

1.Starter or putty in the first layer. For this type of work, a coarse mixture will fit, which is called the starting putty. Suitable for covering large differences, you can hide holes and strobes, putty the walls partially or completely, depending on the evenness of the walls. The thickness of the starting layer can reach up to 1.5-2 cm, and in order to give the surface strength, after filling deep cracks and holes, it is necessary to use a paint grid.

The strength of the first layer provides not only high-quality alignment, but also complete adhesion with subsequent building materials. Why putty walls before painting or wallpapering? - To keep better!

And do not forget that before applying the next layer, you must let the previous one dry well!

2.Putty on the second layer or beacon. The mixture is no different from the mixture for the starting layer. Beacon - a straight flat rail made of wood or metal profile. On this rail we will align the walls horizontally and vertically. It is necessary to fix the beacons on the wall and proceed to the second layer of puttying.
With the help of the level, we carefully check the quality of our secondary finishes.

By the way, if the walls turned out to be even after the starting, first layer, this stage can be skipped. The decision is made depending on the chosen decorative wall covering.

3.Finishing or putty in the third layer. Whether or not you decide on the second layer, you will have to do the finishing putty. Why do I need putty if the walls are already perfectly smooth? It is she who will give the surface perfect smoothness, eliminate tiny cracks, which may have formed during the drying of the thick layer. The last finishing layer should be thin, almost transparent, like a primer, which you, of course, did not forget to apply under the first, starting layer.

Since the finishing putty is akin to a primer, it is not difficult to make such a primer-putty for walls with your own hands: it is enough to dilute the remaining mixture in a liquid-liquid. Often this primer method (liquid putty) is used before applying the first starting layer, but this is wrong! A real primer will lay down better and penetrate deeper and prevent mold growth. Use the right primers, each type of putty will suit its own!

Universal putties are very convenient in all respects and for all layers, working with them is a real pleasure, and the most unprepared novice master who does not know how to properly hold a spatula can handle it.

Important Rules

When working on leveling walls, you must adhere to the following rules:

  1. Puttying is done on solid, solid bases.
  2. The base must be absolutely clean.
  3. Putty is applied after priming the surface to create an adhesive effect.
  4. Apply layers with a wide spatula.
  5. For large irregularities, another 2-3 layers should be applied.
  6. Each layer should be allowed time to dry well.
  7. It will be necessary to putty the walls under the wallpaper three times, for painting - up to 5 times.
  8. The finishing putty is applied with a thin, primer layer.
  9. After the last layer has completely dried, be sure to sand the wall with fine-grained sandpaper.

“In everything big there is gradualness, not suddenness and instantaneity!” - once remarked the great poet and philosopher Goethe. This principle must be adhered to when puttying walls, this required condition: applied a layer - wait for it to dry completely! Otherwise, the masterpiece will not work. The wallpaper will bubble and cover dark spots, move away from the wall and hang from the ceiling. The paint will lie in uneven stripes, swell and crack in the first weeks after painting.

Puttying the walls with your own hands is a simple task, as it might seem at first glance. To help you use the tools correctly and apply layers, small but very useful video tutorials from professional masters below will help you.