How to insulate a house from a bar. The procedure for insulating a house from a bar: what you need to know about facade work. How houses are insulated from timber using polyurethane foam spraying

Every year individual construction is expanding. More and more people want to live on earth, alone with themselves and nature. The share of environmentally friendly construction is gradually growing. Every eighth private house is built entirely of wood. 33% of them are from timber. Warming a house from a bar is becoming increasingly important. It allows not only to provide thermal comfort, but also to protect structures from the damaging effects of the environment.

Do I need to insulate a house from a bar? Two positive points of thermal insulation have already been named. They apply to both external and internal insulation. So why is it still recommended to insulate a log house from the outside?

Let's answer this question with 3 points:

Insulation of a log house from the outside moves the dew point outside the interior and enclosing structures, thereby extending the life of the structure.
Insulation of the log house from the outside allows you to radically change the facade of the house, giving it any conceived look.
The process of warming a house from a bar from the outside allows you to save the much-needed internal usable area.

Choosing a material

Rising energy prices have prompted many owners of private houses to think about the need to reduce the cost of heating and cooling the interior of the house. Demand determines supply. Manufacturers of building and finishing materials have developed and launched the production of a wide range of thermal insulation compounds.

Before insulating a house from a bar, it is necessary to choose a heat insulator.

Their main types are:

fibrous;
polystyrene foam;
polyurethane foam.

Each of them has its own installation features, advantages and disadvantages when insulating a wooden house from a bar. All of them have a low coefficient of specific heat capacity, a long service life.

fiber thermal insulator

To insulate walls from a bar, roll and slab materials are produced from artificial, natural, stone fibers. The latter are made from basalt (volcanic stone) by melting and passing the melt through a centrifuge. The resulting fibers are treated with an adhesive composition and pressed. The resulting sheets are cut to size.

It has the following advantages when you need to insulate a house from glued laminated timber:

high vapor permeability;
low biological and chemical activity;
ecologicaly clean;
not combustible, does not spread flame over its surface.

The disadvantages include high water absorption capacity, destruction under constant exposure to wind loads. When insulating profiled timber, it is necessary to provide for steam, hydro, and wind protection.

Expanded polystyrene heat insulators

It is best to insulate a log house from the outside with the arrangement of a “wet” facade using polystyrene foam thermal insulation. Heaters of this type are obtained by increasing the volume of gas when the granules are heated in a confined space, followed by their connection using adhesives or temperature.

There are two main types of polystyrene foam:

foamed (polystyrene);
extruded (foam).

They are characterized by:

low degree of water absorption and vapor permeability;
high resistance to compression;
necessary biological and insufficient chemical passivity;
high fire risk.

Destroyed by exposure to sunlight. Before insulating a timber house from the outside, it is necessary to provide for a ventilation gap device.

Sprayed polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam is obtained by mixing two components in certain proportions. Application of the composition is impossible without the use of special equipment and trained personnel.

The resulting layer has extremely high adhesion to any building material, fills all the gaps in the structure, is a continuous coating without the formation of cold bridges. It has physical and chemical properties similar to expanded polystyrenes. Before insulating a house from a bar from the outside, it is required to provide for an additional ventilation device for the interior.

You've heard the expression: "A tree breathes." This applies to products made from wood. Cells absorb moisture when it is in excess and give it away when the humidity level drops. This allows you to maintain the most comfortable relative humidity level of 55-56% in the house for winter living.

Basalt slab is the best choice

How to properly insulate a log house from the outside using mineral insulation?

Due to the “breathing” of wooden structures, mineral (basalt) insulation for a log house is considered the most optimal. It passes air well. It is installed close to the wall, thereby reducing the consumption of materials and the thickness of the "pie".

Consider how to properly insulate a house from a bar outside under siding in stages, as the most suitable and most technically complex technology.

The log house is insulated with 2 layers of thermal insulator. Lay them perpendicular to each other.

Insulation of the corners of a timber house is carried out with the same layer of insulation as the wall itself. We pay special attention to the insulation of window and door openings.

When insulating a house from a log, we close the resulting layer of thermal insulator with a waterproofing membrane, which at the same time plays the role of wind protection.

We fill a vertical counter rail 50 mm wide and siding high on the beam.

After installing the siding, it must be sheathed with additional elements.

Expanded polystyrene and "wet" facade

Before you insulate a log house from the outside with foam, you need to take care of the ventilation gap between the outer wall and the insulator layer. This must be done due to the low vapor permeability of this insulating material. The gap allows better removal of penetrating moisture without the formation of condensate on the surface of the wall, protecting it from decay.

Since the penoplex has almost zero indicators for vapor permeability and water saturation, protective membranes are not used when insulating the walls of the house with polystyrene foam.

Before insulating a log house, it is necessary to carefully treat the entire surface with septic tanks to protect it from insects and wood destruction processes.

We fix the plates using fasteners with a wide cap. The layers of the thermal insulator are laid in such a way that the top layer overlaps the joints of the bottom one.

After processing the polystyrene foam insulation with a primer, a reinforcing mesh is fixed on it with the help of an adhesive composition. On it, decorative plaster is applied, followed by painting.

With this technology of warming the house from the outside, the appearance of a house made of timber changes dramatically. It takes the form of stone, while acquiring additional protection, which can significantly increase its service life.

Polyurethane foam - reliable

Before insulating the log cabin by applying polyurethane foam, it is necessary to provide for additional (possibly even forced) ventilation of the interior.

How to properly insulate a house from the outside with polyurethane foam? This requires special equipment that allows the production of a two-component mixture in certain proportions under air pressure.

Non-compliance with the proportionality of the content of the compositions leads to a change in the properties of the final product. Work must be carried out in the means of protecting the skin, respiratory organs and vision.

Before coating with the composition, guides are installed on the surface of the wall, on which the finishing will subsequently be fixed. Additional protection, sealing cracks, leveling the surface in this case for a house made of timber is not carried out.

The composition obtained as a result of a chemical reaction covers the surface with a durable carpet of insulation, perfectly retained on the wall surface during the entire period of operation, which can be more than 50 years. It is necessary to insulate the corners of the house with a thicker layer so that you do not have to reapply when they freeze. Such a thermal insulator is not afraid of either strong cold or sharp warming.

Finishing is installed without the use of protective membranes and films.

Before you insulate your log house from the outside with your own hands, decide on the choice of materials and technologies. The result obtained will please you with energy savings, an increase in the service life and a new facade.

How warm can a log house be? Wood is quite rightly considered a warm material that provides good protection from the cold. In fact, wood is about five times warmer than brick, foam concrete - 2-3 times. But what happens in practice and how to make the house really warm?

Heat engineering issues

In order for the house to be warm, it is necessary that its walls and other enclosing structures have a certain resistance to heat transfer. In accordance with SNiP 23-02-2003, the resistance to heat transfer of the external walls of residential premises is determined depending on the location.

For example, in the Moscow region, according to new standards, this figure should not be less than 3.13 K m 2 /W. A 150 mm thick wall made of pine timber has a thermal resistance of about 1.25. With a thickness of 200 mm - approximately 1.6 K m 2 / W. In any case, the heat-shielding qualities of a timber wall do not reach modern requirements, although they are quite within the standards in force for buildings built before 2000.

From this we can conclude that in order for a house made of logs to meet modern ideas about minimum energy efficiency, it is necessary to insulate it, and for this there are various materials.

How to insulate a house from a bar?

Before starting work on the insulation of walls from a bar, you need to understand what happens in the thickness of the wall, how it works for heat saving.

In addition to the temperature difference on the inner and outer surfaces of the wall, one must not forget about the difference in humidity. Inside the air humidity is always higher than outside. Steam penetrates into the pores of the wood and moves in the direction of lower partial pressure - to the outer surface.

The most effective way of insulation is external thermal insulation. With this method, the wall always remains warm and is not affected by frost destruction. But it is very important that the insulation is sufficiently permeable to steam. The high humidity of the walls can quickly render a wooden house unusable, and create a very unpleasant, pathogenic microclimate inside.

Among modern heat-insulating materials, mineral wool is the best vapor-permeable material. For comparison, we can bring the vapor permeability of wood and various heaters.

Pine across the fibers - 0.06 mg / (m h Pa).
Styrofoam (expanded polystyrene) - 0.05 mg / (m h Pa).
EPPS - 0.013 mg / (m h Pa).
Mineral wool - 0.5 mg / (m h Pa).

From the above data, it is clear that mineral wool is the best material for insulating a log house from the outside. The advantage of vapor permeability is so great that it outweighs not the lowest cost of mineral wool.

The best conditions for moisture removal are created by a ventilated facade, in which an air gap of 20-50 mm thick remains between the insulation and the outer cladding. It should have air inlet at the bottom and outlet at the top. In this case, a constant air flow is created in the gap, which prevents moisture from accumulating.

To prevent transverse diffusion of air into the insulation, it is closed with a windproof membrane, which does not prevent steam from escaping, but increases the efficiency of thermal insulation. Vinyl siding, blockhouse or other suitable material can be used for exterior cladding.

Warming step by step

How to insulate a house from a bar: it is possible to cover a new bar house with thermal insulation only after it has completely shrunk. In any case, the insulation of walls from a bar must begin with surface preparation. It is necessary to remove the moss, clean the areas damaged by rot or mold, treat the walls with an antiseptic and caulk the cracks.

The next step is the installation of the crate. It can be made from wooden bars of a suitable section, or from metal wall profiles for drywall. Profiles are installed vertically, every 40 - 50 cm.

First, you should fix the basement profile, limiting the hinged facade from below. Then brackets are attached to the wall with a step along the profiles of the crate of no more than 80 cm.

After that, thermal insulation slabs are laid on the wall, starting from the base. The plates of the brackets pass through the plates through the slots made in them. Then, in the same way, a windproof membrane is laid on the slabs. On top of the membrane, you need to install umbrella fasteners that will fix the insulation. It is important that the length of the brackets allows you to install the crate with the necessary clearance between the insulation and the cladding.

A crate is mounted on the insulated wall. The profiles are placed on the base profile, set vertically and fastened to the brackets with self-tapping screws or detachable rivets. In this case, not only the vertical of each profile is controlled, but also their alignment in a common plane. Everywhere you need to use only galvanized fasteners.

After installing the crate, the cladding is mounted. It is important that the ventilation gap remains open from below and above, and also that stagnant zones under the window sills do not form in it. In addition, it is very important that all kinds of folds or irregularities of the insulation do not block the vertical air flow.

Calculation of the thickness of the insulation

When calculating the thickness of the insulation, it is necessary to take into account the thermal resistance of the wall from the timber in order to bring the total resistance of the wall to the required value. It is better to take the thickness with a margin in order to compensate for the influence of cold bridges and the possible deterioration of thermal insulation qualities at high humidity.

Mineral wool Hotrock

So how to insulate a log house from the outside. Mineral wool Hotrock is European-class basalt thermal insulation. The range includes boards of different densities, designed for insulation of a wide variety of structures, including ventilated facades. Depending on the features of a particular object, you can choose plates with a density of 35 to 90 kg / m 3. The thermal conductivity of all slabs in the dry state fluctuates around 0.035 - 0.038 W / m K. A 50 mm thick slab is equivalent in thermal resistance to a 150 mm thick pine beam.

Basalt wool is completely non-combustible, does not retain moisture, is not damaged by rodents and insects, fungi and mold do not develop in it. By the sum of its qualities, it is recognized as the best material for wall insulation.

When purchasing housing from a massive bar, for example, 150x150 mm or more, users believe that they have chosen a fairly warm material. However, in practice, it turns out that even such structures made of natural material need additional processing. We have to decide how to properly insulate a house from a bar from the outside, and what materials to use.

If additional insulation is not used correctly, then the outer walls should have a thickness of 350-400 mm to ensure high-quality protection in this case. Otherwise, the degree of insulation will be insufficient for a comfortable stay, even if all seams are reliably caulked. With a thin wall, with a significant decrease in temperature, even the beams themselves will begin to freeze.

Objective factors

Today, the insulation of a log house from the outside is not a difficult enough problem, since the market is full of all kinds of materials for such work. Most of the operations can be done by hand, guided by simple step-by-step instructions. To do this, you can use the presented text or video materials.

Before you insulate a log house, you need to know the positive and negative aspects of the process. The main advantages include:

increasing the efficiency of heating systems;
the outer surface of a log house receives additional protection from external adverse phenomena;
the owner of the house gets the opportunity to give the facade individuality;
the room does not take up space.

The disadvantages of processing outside the timber building include the inability to control the aging of the building material. In this case, it is necessary to follow the installation technologies in order to ensure the durability of the building and preserve the wood even without visual control.

When installing thermal insulation, you need a clear understanding of the technology in order to exclude premature aging of wood.

When choosing a finishing material, it is worth paying attention to its physical and chemical characteristics, which must satisfy the operational parameters:

external insulation of a house made of timber should be as fireproof as possible;
environmentally friendly materials are used;
minimum values of thermal conductivity;
the material must block the release of heat;
the structure of the insulation should not accumulate moisture;
steam capacity is provided;
the presence of soundproofing characteristics.

VIDEO: How to cheaply and quickly insulate a house outside

Features of warming a log house from the outside

It must be taken into account that the better it is to insulate a house from a bar from the outside, the less money you will need to spend on heating. You should also follow certain rules that contribute to obtaining the desired result. For example, insulating materials cannot be left outside for a long time, since possible precipitation helps to moisten it. This negatively affects the heat-shielding properties.

In some cases, the crate is placed horizontally with a step that is 12-15 mm less than the width of the material. In this case, it is allowed not to use additional fasteners, since the mineral wool block or other material will be held on its own.

The operation is carried out in one of the following ways:

a hinged ventilated facade is formed;
using a special installation, spraying with polyurethane is carried out;
sheets of modern polystyrene are involved.

How to insulate a house from a bar from the outside, each owner chooses for himself. The cost of work and materials, as well as their durability and efficiency, are taken into account.

The most acceptable option is to use the hinged ventilated facade method.

Its advantages are the characteristics:

high installation speed;
a large selection of modern high-quality materials for insulating the walls of a timber house;
the service life is guaranteed by the manufacturer up to several decades;
reduction of heating costs;
if in this way the log house is insulated from the outside, then the dew point will move beyond the dimensions of the tree.

Use of materials

The most popular materials for external wall protection are:

cotton wool from basalt;
fiberglass material;
mineral wool;
expanded polystyrene.

Due to the complex of positive properties, mineral wool is often used. Due to its minimal weight, it does not create a significant load on the walls and foundation. The financial costs are also not high. At the same time, it perfectly retains heat and is not a combustible material. Due to the lack of compaction, cold bridges are not created, and its physical parameters are resistant to thermal deformation of a wooden structure.

Often, insulation is carried out according to the type of block house. The outer part is covered with plastic siding decor. Installation includes several steps.

Step by step instructions for home insulation

At the first stage, a vapor barrier is provided for the system. You will need a large area of polyethylene, aluminum foil, rolls of roofing material, vapor barrier film. A vertical rack frame of bars 2.5 cm thick is attached to the walls, forming a grid with a step of 1 m. An oilcloth is stuffed on top of it for vapor barrier. Windows 15 mm in diameter are formed between the base rails to prevent the accumulation of moisture.

It is recommended to hide the places where the film is fixed with nails or staples with adhesive tape to protect the fasteners from moisture.

The second stage of insulation of a timber house consists of the formation of a frame for insulation. Here you will need boards with a section of 100x50 mm or 100x40 mm. Stuffing is carried out vertically on the edge. Since it is necessary to insulate a house from a bar without gaps, we select the distance between the ribs so that it is 1.5-2.0 cm less than the width of the insulation.

The fastening of the beam is carried out with self-tapping screws. We ensure verticality and correctness of installation with the help of a plumb line and a hydraulic level.

At the third step, we carry out a dense laying of the insulating material, eliminating cracks and gaps. If cotton wool 50 mm thick is used, then we put it in two layers. It is recommended to stock up on elastic semi-rigid boards having a density of 80-120 kg/m3. This insulation for housing is well kept in a wooden lattice.

The fourth step requires the creation of waterproofing. For this layer, a waterproofing film is used. She is obliged to release steam, but retain water. At the docking points, an overlap of about 10 cm is created, which must be sealed with self-adhesive (film).

A frame of slats with a section of 50x30 or 50x25 mm is stuffed over the waterproofing. Thus, an air gap is formed, which contributes to drying from condensate. The layer must be covered with a metal fine mesh. It is a reliable protection against rodents.

The outer layer performs a decorative function. It can be made from both plastic and lining. Such siding is selected based on the preferences of the owner of the house.

VIDEO: Rockwool - wall insulation from the outside under siding

Features of working with foam

For novice masters, this option of thermal insulation is preferable, since it does not require special skills, and the speed of work is high.

Among the advantages it is worth noting:

low price for the material;
siding can be attached directly to the material without crates;
retains heat well;
does not absorb water, therefore it does not freeze.

Among the disadvantages:

combustibility;
does not allow air to pass through, condensate accumulates under the layers, the walls from the inside can rot and become moldy.

The problem with vapor permeability can be solved by ventilation gaps and the installation of a high-quality membrane. As for flammability, it is worth choosing extruded polystyrene foam, which contains flame retardants. This material will also burn, but much more slowly, and small foci will fade.

Modern Russian insulation

Domestic development for sheltering the outer walls of a log house is the new material "Penoplex". It is offered to customers in the form of plates and is an extruded polystyrene foam.

Penoplex is ideal for the changeable Russian climate

A distinctive quality of the insulation is sufficient mechanical strength and excellent water-repellent properties. It does not develop molds or bacteria. The material can be laid both vertically and horizontally, and plastering is allowed on top of the outside.

VIDEO: The most common and gross mistake in wall insulation

Insulation of a log house from the outside is necessary not only to ensure an optimal climate inside the rooms, but also to protect wooden walls from the negative effects of the external environment. However, to ensure high-quality thermal insulation, it is not enough just to choose a material that will have a minimum coefficient of thermal conductivity, but also have natural properties. Is it difficult to insulate a log house from the outside or choose an internal method?

Insulation of the facade of a timber house from the outside has a number of the following advantages:

when carrying out external work, uncomfortable conditions are not created for the residents of the house;
the internal space of the premises is preserved;
additional protection of load-bearing structures from negative external factors is provided;
the ability to easily change the cladding of the facade of the house;
increases the life of the building;
the dew point is outside the main structures, so the problems of dampness or condensation are not terrible;
the natural properties of wood are preserved due to optimal air exchange with the external environment.

The disadvantages of this insulation technology include:

work is permissible only under optimal climatic conditions: in the absence of precipitation and positive ambient temperatures;
the need for external cladding or finishing, which can cause significant financial costs;
it is possible to insulate the facade of the building only after the period of shrinkage of the beam has passed, namely after 1-2 years after its construction.

Types of materials for insulation

Insulation of the walls of a log house from the outside can be done using one of the following heat-insulating materials:

polystyrene;
mineral wool;
extruded polystyrene foam.

Styrofoam

External insulation of a house made of timber with foam plastic is the cheapest way of thermal insulation. The material has a thermal conductivity coefficient of 0.03-0.04 W/m·K. It has increased moisture resistance (maximum absorption up to 1% of the total volume), so mold and fungus do not form on it.

The service life of the foam is more than 20 years, so maintenance of the insulated layer is not required during this time. During installation, there are also no difficulties or problems, since the minimum number of tools is used, the installation is carried out quickly and efficiently.

Other benefits of polystyrene include:

optimal level of sound insulation;
minimal loads on load-bearing structures compared to other materials;
ease of processing sheets;
the possibility of applying a finishing layer directly on the insulation.

Mineral wool

Insulation of a timber house outside with mineral wool is the most common method of thermal insulation. The fibrous material has a natural composition, so it can contact wood without problems. Due to the softness of the mats, it can be tightly laid on the surface of any shape without air gaps.

The coefficient of thermal conductivity of mineral wool is 0.077-0.12 W / m K, depending on the type of fibers and the thickness of the plates or roll. Density varies from 10 to 100 kg/m 3 . The minimum service life is 20 years.

Warming a log house from the outside with stone wool allows you to get the following advantages:

high level of sound insulation;
increased fire resistance;
not prone to damage by rodents or pests;
optimal vapor permeability and air exchange.

The use of extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) is the most profitable and expensive, as it easily tolerates conditions of high humidity, external mechanical influences, and contact with chemically active substances. Its service life is up to 100 years, that is, it has no analogues today.

The coefficient of thermal conductivity of XPS is on average 0.03 W/m·K. The level of moisture absorption is up to 0.4% of the total volume for 30 days. Unlike foam plastic, EPPS has a parapermeability of 0.05 mg / m·Pa·h and a uniform structure (granules with a size of 0.2 mm).

The density of the plates varies from 25 to 45 kg/m 3 , due to which the load on the walls can be accurately calculated. Compressive strength up to 0.16 MPa, and bending strength up to 0.25 MPa.

The main advantages of EPPS include:

resistance to sudden temperature changes;
environmental friendliness of the composition;
resistance to the appearance of fungus and mold;
chemical resistance.

Criteria for the choice of material and requirements for the technology of the insulation process

Proper insulation of a log house from the outside can be done with materials that meet the following requirements:

optimal ratio of material thickness and strength, minimum coefficient of thermal conductivity;
moisture resistance;
incombustibility;
so that the weight of the insulation can withstand the supporting structures;
ease of installation;
unpretentiousness in operation and undemanding maintenance.

The requirements for insulation technology are as follows:

wood must be protected from external negative factors: temperature, moisture;
heat-insulating sheathing must have sufficient strength, not shrink and withstand sudden temperature changes;
all layers of the material should not accumulate moisture, that is, be well ventilated, or have increased waterproofing properties;
the technological conditions of installation should allow the implementation of a specific method of insulation: evenness of the surface, the absence of obvious or hidden defects, the possibility of mounting guides, etc.

An important role is also played by the operating conditions of the insulation:

temperature range in a particular area;
building features: fire hazard, the possibility of contact with various chemically active substances, the likelihood of mechanical damage;
the minimum duration of operation of the insulation under specific conditions;
the need for maintenance.

Therefore, when choosing a material, it is important to take into account all the influencing factors. Only in this case it is possible to ensure the maximum period of their operation and the absence of problems with the timber. It is also worth paying attention to the additional properties of the insulation, which will save on laying sound or waterproofing.

Features of preparing the walls of the house for insulation

The technology of warming a log house from the outside requires the following conditions and preparatory work:

a wooden house must go through a period of shrinkage into the ground after construction;
wood must be impregnated with antiseptics and protective impregnations that reduce flammability and moisture absorption;
all cracks and defects must be sealed, if necessary, several logs must be replaced;
consideration must be given to how the materials will interact with the timber in order to ensure the longest possible service life.

Options for external insulation of a log house

Warming a log house from the outside with your own hands can be done using one of the following methods:

with the help of a hinged ventilated facade;
by spraying a polyurethane layer;
sheathed with foam.

Installation of a hinged ventilated facade

The installation of a ventilated facade involves the installation of a lathing with laying in the space between the insulation guides and subsequent sheathing with facing panels. Mineral wool boards are used as heat-insulating material.

The main advantages of this technology are:

increasing the level of hydro and sound insulation of walls;
ease of installation;
minimum requirements for surface evenness;
wide choice of finishing materials;
displacement of the dew point from the supporting structure to the insulating layers;
ease of maintenance and repair of the hinged frame.

The implementation of the method is as follows:

Preparatory work is being carried out: wood is treated with impregnations, defects are removed, etc.
A wooden or metal crate is mounted along the width of the insulation.
A waterproofing layer is laid.
Insulation is mounted between the guides.
The insulation is sheathed with a windproof membrane.
The counter-lattice is laid along the slats of the main batten.
Sheathing is carried out with boards or decorative panels.

Insulation under siding

The insulation of a log house from the outside under the siding is similar to the thermal insulation technology using the hinged facade method. However, there are a number of features:

as a heater, you can use mineral wool or EPPS;
joints of thermal insulation and guides are sealed with mounting foam;
when using mineral wool, a diffusion membrane is used as a waterproofing;
when laying XPS, siding can be installed directly on the main crate, since waterproofing is not required.

Spraying a polyurethane layer

Polyurethane spraying is an innovative method, the most effective and expensive among all existing ones. It is with its help that it is possible to form a sealed seamless layer that is highly resistant to negative external influences: moisture, sudden temperature changes, and pests.

The advantages of this technology are:

maximum protection of timber from decay;
improving the fire resistance of walls;
increased adhesion of the applied layer to various building materials;
no need to level the base;
fasteners are not needed;
increases sound insulation;
high layer uniformity.

However, there are a number of negative points:

the difficulty of applying a uniform layer;
the need to use special equipment;
high cost of polyurethane foam;
instability to direct ultraviolet rays.

The method is implemented like this:

The surface of the walls is cleaned from dirt and various stains.
Wood is treated with antiseptics and other protective compounds.
Installed wooden guides.
Spraying polyurethane foam. If necessary, two layers.
The cladding is installed.

Foam insulation

Thermal insulation of walls with foam plastic is very profitable and inexpensive, since the material is relatively cheap, easy to install and unpretentious in operation. In addition, laying the crate is not required, finishing can be done directly on the insulation, with sharp temperature fluctuations it does not lose its properties.

Styrofoam is a combustible material, therefore it is necessary to treat wood with impregnations that increase the ignition temperature or make it non-flammable (flame retardants).

The warming method is implemented as follows:

A vertical crate of wooden bars is mounted to the walls. Their thickness is equal to the thickness of the insulation, and the fastening step is equal to the width of the plates.
Styrofoam sheets are butt-mounted inside the frame. The seams are glued with sealant or heat-insulating tape. The foam is fastened to dowels, called "umbrellas", or to an adhesive base.
A diffusion membrane is laid on top of the foam butt. All joints are glued with special adhesive tape. The membrane is fastened to the staples using a stapler.
The facing layer is installed.

At the preparatory stage of the foam plastic installation, it is important to carefully align the walls, since at the slightest bends (more than 1.5 mm per linear meter), cracks may appear in the sheets. In addition, this will save on the consumption of a layer of plaster.

For plastering walls, it is not necessary to install a crate, since the load on the decorative layer is minimal. However, there is one important condition - it is necessary to lay a reinforcing layer in order to increase the engagement area of the outer layer and mechanical strength.

To make a house made of timber cozy, warm and inexpensive to maintain, to reduce heating costs, then external insulation methods are the most profitable. Their implementation is relatively simple, and there are a lot of advantages: lower heating costs, protection of load-bearing structures from temperature extremes, pests, mechanical, physical and chemical influences.

When choosing materials for insulation, it is necessary to be guided by the requirements for thermal insulation and the total budget for all stages of work.

During the construction of log houses in the Russian climate, wall insulation is a prerequisite for a comfortable stay. Our winters are too harsh, so an uninsulated building will make the owner freeze or pay incredible amounts for heating. But when choosing materials for wall cladding, I want the tree to retain its healthy microclimate as much as possible. Unfortunately, many heaters, having high thermal insulation characteristics, are not “friendly” with the timber, making it “suffocate”. And in a couple of years they will lead the wood to a deplorable state. Consider what materials it is worth carrying out the insulation of a timber house, so that it is warm in the rooms and the walls are ventilated.

Which is better: warming a house from a bar from the outside or from the inside

The main rule of the builder: plan everything in advance, so as not to face alterations later. Therefore, start thinking about the insulation of a house from a bar even when creating a project. To begin with, decide: you will sheathe inside or outside.

What is the benefit of insulating a log house from the inside

If the house is new, then many owners do not want to hide the texture of the wood under the finish, because it is beautiful in itself. In addition, warming a house from a bar from the inside is beneficial for monitoring the condition of the wood. The owner will have time to notice the places where the walls begin to collapse or rot, in time and take measures to “treat” and strengthen the protection of the tree.

Disadvantages of internal wall insulation

And yet, the insulation of the log house from the inside is used less often than the outside. First, it steals a lot of usable living space. That is why this moment must be considered during design in order to calculate the square of the rooms, taking into account insulation. But if the foundation is already in place, you will have to put up with the fact that the premises will become more cramped, or install wall insulation from a bar from the outside.

Secondly, builders do not recommend insulating a log house from the inside, because the tree will be in direct contact with the cold. And when the winters start, the dew point will shift to the inside of the wood. At the slightest error in ventilation, the tree will begin to rot inside the cake, and you will notice this only when the fungus eats through the timber.

Benefits of outdoor insulation

The main trump card that the insulation of a log house has on the outside is the correct distribution of materials for the release of internal vapors. According to building codes, materials are laid from slightly permeable to highly permeable. So that the steam, penetrating into them, could be more easily weathered. The tree has a denser structure than the insulation (only the right one!) And the diffusion membrane, so the steam will not settle in the thickness of the cake, but will evaporate in the ventilation gap. In the case of inner lining, steam will easily penetrate through the insulation, but it will not always break through the tree, because it will have time to cool down, and the molecules will move more weakly.

When making a choice in favor of external or internal insulation, you should weigh the pros and cons of the chosen method of thermal insulation.

In addition, for old buildings in which wooden walls already look unpresentable, warming the log house from the outside is a more profitable option. At the same time, you will insulate and embellish the house at the expense of finishing. Well, the usable area of the premises will not suffer.

Cons of insulation from the outside

If you decide to insulate a house from a bar from the outside, you will lose the opportunity to observe the condition of the wood. Therefore, it is necessary to adhere to the correct installation technology and find professional builders so that the walls covered with decoration remain healthy even without your control.

The nuances of the internal insulation of the log house

If you still choose the option of internal insulation, then even it can be made as safe as possible for the “health” of wood. To do this, you need to buy a suitable, well-ventilated insulation, whose vapor permeability and composition will match the properties of the timber.

Expanded polystyrene materials fall off immediately: they poorly pass moisture. They cannot be used for either internal or external insulation, because condensation will begin to form at the junctions with wood.

With a high level of heat saving, polystyrene foam insulation is not recommended for wood, as they do not allow the house to breathe

Basalt and fiberglass materials have excellent vapor permeability, and with proper ventilation, moisture will escape from them. The only negative is the unnatural origin. All of them emit harmful substances to some extent, and in their structure there are many microparticles in suspension. When shaking the plate, you can see how the air around is filled with the smallest fragments of insulation, and they can settle on a person, causing discomfort. With normal ventilation, some of the suspensions will end up inside the house, and you will be forced to breathe them. If you block their access to the house with an impenetrable film, then the entire healing microclimate of the tree will disappear.

When installing mineral wool, they use respirators, and you will have to breathe suspended particles inside the house

The most beneficial for maintaining clean air in the rooms will be flax fiber and soft fiberboard. Both heaters are of natural origin, therefore they are ideally suited to the structure of timber walls.

Eco-insulation for wood

Linen fiber

It is a slab of 85 percent flax fibers and 15 binder fibers. Flax is known for its antiseptic properties, which are also preserved in the insulation. Those. fungi and bacteria will not settle in it. When cutting and installing linen insulation will not generate dust. It does not deteriorate its thermal insulation properties when saturated with vapors, therefore, when laying, it does not require a vapor barrier layer. Well ventilated and does not cause allergies.

Flax fiber does not contain suspended particles, so it will be safe to breathe in the house

soft fiberboard

It is made from coniferous wood chips, formed into slabs with environmentally friendly binders. Well absorbs sound and passes pairs. It has a unique property to absorb vapors in case of excessive humidity of rooms and give them back if the air is too dry. Maintains the maximum acceptable humidity level for a person in the premises: 40-60%.

Soft fiberboard is a material identical to wood, so they work great in pairs.

Some aspects of installation

When using soft fiberboard, a crate is not needed. The insulation is glued to the beam or taken on self-tapping screws. The wall turns out to be even, so it is plastered, laying the joints of the plates with a reinforcing mesh, and then painted. You can immediately glue the wallpaper on the fiberboard.

When using flax fiber, a vertical crate is created, stuffing it directly onto the beam. Insulation plates are laid in it, fixing with dowel-umbrellas. Metal profiles are placed on top of the crate and the walls are sewn up with drywall. Due to the metal profiles, a ventilation gap is formed in the wall, through which the moisture that has got into the insulated beam will go under the roof or down and ventilate. Note that when using flax fiber, do not put vapor barrier films so as not to disturb the natural circulation of air.

How to insulate a timber house from the outside

Most often, we see on the video the insulation of a log house from the outside. Such cladding is mounted using the technology of creating ventilated facades, because the main requirement for maintaining healthy wood is high-quality ventilation.

The choice of heaters in this case is wider than with the inner lining. You can use any fiberglass or basalt insulation, because the glued beam itself will be an obstacle for their small particles. The main thing is to use plates, not rolls, because they are more rigid and do not slide down over time.

: Do not choose rolled materials for mounting, because over time they may slide down

But before insulating a house from a bar, decide on a specific heat insulator. For example, if you buy mineral wool, then when creating a wall cake, it must be insulated with a film from the timber so that steam does not penetrate into the loose structure. Wet cotton wool ceases to keep warm. But, by fixing a vapor barrier layer on the walls, you thereby reduce their ability to "breathe", because the moisture from the timber will be forced to return back to the house. If you buy heaters that are not afraid of getting wet (for example, ecowool or glass wool), then you do not need to create a vapor barrier. It is enough to protect the glued insulated timber with a ventilation gap from the finishing sheathing and a waterproofing film. Those. your wall cake will look like this:

Bar.
Crate with ecowool inside.
Waterproofing film (superdiffusion membrane).
Ventilation gap (wooden slats are stuffed on the crate).
Finishing finishing material (lining, siding, etc.).

Ventilation slats are stuffed on the crate, which should be set exactly according to the level: it will have to attach lining or siding to it

When choosing how to insulate a log house - from the outside or from the inside, weigh all the pros and cons. Look for an option in which the wood will remain “healthy” and the rooms will become much warmer.

4.95 out of 5)

Timber houses, due to their environmental friendliness, are a popular option for private construction. But although they heat up quickly enough and have good thermal insulation properties, insulating a log house is an urgent need for most households.

Installation of insulation on the walls of a house from a bar

Differences between old and new technologies

Wooden construction in Russia is a centuries-old tradition. For centuries, houses were built exclusively from log houses, from massive round and semicircular logs, the thickness of which was enough for good thermal insulation. Like today, the wood shrank over time, and gaps appeared between the logs. But earlier there were other ideas about the beauty of the facade, so ordinary tree moss was used to seal the cracks. He landed in the cracks between the logs and over time reliably filled the entire space between them.

In modern construction, issues of economy come to the fore and force the use of timber, the thickness of which does not always meet the requirements of the developed standards. With insufficient cross-section, complete freezing occurs in winter, which means that the walls of the house are not able to retain heat. In addition, over time, the tree begins to dry out, which is why heat loss grows even more.

It looks like a wall of timber after drying wood

Advantages and disadvantages of wall insulation in a timber house

Prudent owners are looking for ways to properly insulate a house from a bar in order to spend less money on heating in winter. This can be done in two main ways: from the inside and from the outside, and external insulation is preferable for a number of reasons.

Features of insulation from the inside

With internal insulation, the positive effect of saving heat is offset by the disadvantages:

Part of the usable area is inevitably lost due to the installation of the frame under the insulation.

The heat-insulating layer hides the "living" wooden walls and the rooms lose their unique charm.

Due to the external winter cooling of an unprotected wooden wall, the dew point shifts to the internal insulation. Condensation occurs, mold appears, and it is difficult to control the condition of the wood.

What happens to the wall with improper insulation from the inside - in the video:

Wall insulation from the outside: advantages and disadvantages of the method

Most often, they resort to it, bearing in mind the obvious advantages compared to internal insulation:

The usable area of the internal space is saved;

Outside work does not change the daily routine of the family.

The facade of the house is reliably protected from sudden changes in temperature, which prolongs the life of the building.

The correct selection of materials does not violate the microclimate of the rooms (the house "breathes").

You can decorate the facade to your liking or improve the appearance if the wood has darkened over time.

If the technology is followed, the wood will be additionally protected from damage.

Easy to control the work of the construction team.

The main disadvantage of external insulation is the need to carry it out in good weather - it makes no sense to do this in cold and damp conditions.

Three main methods of insulation

Any wall insulation involves attaching a layer of insulation to it and structures holding it. For this, several methods have been developed, and each of them has its own advantages and features of execution.

The principle of wall insulation is the creation of an additional protective "pie"

Hinged ventilated facade

By itself, this technology was developed as a decoration of the facade of the house, but since the installation procedure involves attaching a layer of mineral wool or similar material to the wall, this method can be considered as insulation.

Advantages of using ventilated facades:

Long service life (up to 50 years), excellent heat and sound insulation.

Ease of installation.

A wide choice of facing material of various flowers.

The dew point moves outward.

Mounting technology:

The lumber is pre-treated with compounds that prevent rotting and make the tree unattractive to insects.

Outside, a crate is attached to the house, on which a sheet of hydro and wind protection is stuffed. In the space between the slats of the crate, air circulates freely, due to which condensate or moisture that has appeared in another way will be removed from the insulation.

The crate is leveled with a plumb line.

Next, slats are stuffed onto the crate, the distance between which should correspond to the width of the heat insulator. Accordingly, the height of the rails is also selected - for central Russia it is recommended to use a heater with a thickness of at least 70 mm.

A feature of the ventilated facade is that a gap is left between the insulation and the cladding

Insulation mats are laid between the slats, fixing with dowels.

Then, bars with a thickness of at least 5 cm are additionally stuffed onto the slats, so that there is a gap between the insulation and the cladding.

Facing (siding) is mounted.

Insulation under siding.

There are practically no fundamental differences from the previous technology - insulation is also used here and a decorative coating is also used on the outside. But if the very name of the ventilated facade indicates the place of its use, then the whole house is covered with siding in any case.

The nuances of installation, taking into account the selected material:

The distance between the slats is set equal to the width of the mat if foam or extruded polystyrene foam is selected.

The distance between the slats is set 10–15 mm less than the width of the mat if mineral wool is used. This must be taken into account when calculating the amount of mineral wool.

According to the technology, cotton wool slabs are mounted at a distance; polymer plates are placed in cells, the joints are treated with mounting foam.

When using mineral wool, a waterproofing layer (diffuse membrane) is additionally mounted on top. It is not needed when using fiberglass or polystyrene.

Sheathing a log house with siding

Polyurethane foam spraying method

The principle of this technology is clear to anyone who has seen how they work with mounting foam. The difference here is that the amount of material needed to create a thermal insulation pad is much larger, so a spray gun using compressed air from a compressor is used to process polyurethane foam. Technology advantages:

Easy to use and high speed of application of the heat-insulating mixture on large surfaces.

Excellent adhesion (adhesion) with most building materials, long-term preservation of properties.

Environmentally friendly, fire resistant and anti-rot of the treated surface.

Insulation spraying can be carried out on any prepared surface

Types of heaters

The choice of insulation for outdoor work is quite wide and each of them has distinctive features that must be considered when choosing:

Mineral wool

It is produced in three varieties - stone (basalt), glass and slag. All have similar properties: fire-resistant, non-combustible, have chemical and biological resistance. Another advantage of the material is vapor permeability, environmental friendliness and high sound insulation.

By cons - cotton wool attracts rodents and does not dry out completely when wet.

It all depends on the skills of the builders, but usually it is easier to insulate a house from the outside with mineral wool using mats than rolls - the latter are not always convenient to deploy on vertical walls.

Laying mineral wool slabs in the crate

Styrene boards (polystyrene, polyurethane foam)

Styrofoam is the cheapest option, lightweight and porous, with low hygroscopicity and excellent thermal insulation. The main disadvantages are combustibility (releases toxins during combustion), fragility and instability when exposed to ultraviolet radiation.

Extruded polystyrene foam

It has a special porous structure, tolerates low temperatures well and is unsuitable for microorganisms. The material is durable, easy to install (plates), does not absorb water. Disadvantages: highly flammable and at the same time releases harmful toxins.

Styrofoam and polystyrene foam are similar in appearance

Environmentally sprayable styrenes (ecowool and polyurethane foam)

Such heaters are expensive due to the method of application; large surfaces require special installation and experience. For small areas of complex shape (crevices near pipes, windows, between plates), polyurethane heaters in cylinders are offered.

"Warm" plaster

A mixture of light granules of complex composition (glass, cement and hydrophobic additives), which does not ignite, is not afraid of ultraviolet radiation, well protects the facade from moisture and is easily repaired.

Preparing a wooden structure for plastering on video:

Subtleties of wall insulation from timber

Insulation of a log house outside under the siding cannot be started whenever you want - before that, the following conditions must be met:

Work on the installation of insulation can begin only after the complete shrinkage of the log house - often this period can be one and a half to two years.

It is forbidden to carry out work if the facade has not been treated with an antiseptic. Ignoring this rule will lead to the appearance of fungus and rot.

Before insulating a house from a bar from the outside, it is necessary to prepare the facade: close up not only wide cracks, but also small cracks. To do this, you can use putty, mounting foam or similar materials.

Good thermal insulation of a log house requires careful selection of material and calculation of its quantity. It should be taken into account how the heat-insulating material will be combined with the wood of the beam itself.

To choose a suitable insulation, it is necessary to take into account the size of the building, the quality of the log house and the seams.

Some heaters are installed without crates

Tools and materials for building thermal insulation

To insulate a house without being distracted by the search for tools and materials, builders need to prepare the following:

bubble or laser building level, you can still use a plumb line;

tape measure, square or ruler made of metal;

hammer, construction knife or hacksaw, screwdriver;

facade dowels, adhesive tape, chalk, polyurethane foam, antiseptic;

dry slats, insulation;

vapor and waterproofing film;

finishing material.

wood preservative sprayer

Treatment of a wooden wall with an antiseptic

The general course of the installation of thermal insulation

All steps for warming a house from a bar by any of the methods described are always schematically the same and are performed in the following sequence:

for ventilation of the first layer of insulation, a crate of wooden planks is mounted on the wall;

a frame is stuffed onto the crate for fixing the insulating material

installation of a heater;

installation of additional battens and frame (if double insulation is used);

laying an additional layer of heat insulator;

fastening of a diffusion membrane, which will provide hydro and wind protection.

installation of facade finishes (lining, siding) with an air gap.

In general, the insulation of a house made of timber according to the rules will make it possible to save on heating in the future. Despite the apparent simplicity of the whole process, there are a fairly large number of pitfalls that will definitely come out during installation. As a result, if there is no proper qualification, then it is better to order the work to professionals, because it is much more pleasant to control the construction site than to climb walls on your own.

The ancient way of building houses from wooden beams has become popular again today. Now such buildings play the role of not only country houses, but also full-fledged dwellings for year-round use. Well, in order for the wooden house to be warm in winter, it must be insulated. We will talk about how to properly insulate a log house in this article.

Insulation of the walls of the house from the outside

As a rule, it is customary to insulate wooden buildings from the outside. This allows you not to hide the interior space of the premises, and also prevents the wood from rotting. Insulation of a log house from the outside is necessary for several reasons:

Thermal insulation of the building protects the walls from heat loss, reduces heating costs.
An insulated house is not afraid of high humidity, severe frost and other adverse environmental factors.
Being engaged in thermal protection of walls, you can install siding at the same time, which will allow you to change the appearance of the house at the request of the owner.
As already mentioned, external insulation does not reduce the internal space of rooms.

When performing such work, it is important to consider several points:

choose the right thermal insulation material, calculate its thickness and the required amount;
strictly observe the installation technology;
do not forget about creating a hydro- and vapor barrier layer;
properly process wooden walls to protect them from insects, fungi, burning and other harmful effects.

Insulation for a log house must meet certain requirements:

be of high quality and durable;
easy to handle and install;
safe for health, environmentally friendly;
don't burn.

In order for the insulation of a log house to be effective, and the building has served you for many years, listen to the following recommendations:

Never use raw material. The insulation must be dry and pre-treated with an antiseptic. If you cover the walls with damp material, the wood will begin to mold, rot, and collapse. Fungi and microorganisms will start in it, and after a while the bars will simply become worthless.
It is possible to insulate the walls of a wooden house only after the building has completely shrunk. Such shrinkage, as a rule, takes at least 1.5 years. If the building is sheathed earlier, as a result of subsidence of logs, the lining is deformed.
It is possible to mount heat-insulating material only on prepared walls. This means that all deep cracks and chips must be covered with putty, and the wood itself must be impregnated with antiseptics and flame retardants.

How to insulate a log house from the outside: creating a hinged facade

Among the methods of thermal insulation of log buildings, the construction of a ventilated facade is considered the most popular method, the reason for this is the advantages of this method:

the hinged facade is easy to install, it takes relatively little time to work;
after insulation, the walls can be lined with various decorative materials: clapboard, porcelain stoneware, siding, boards, rack profile, etc.;
this method of insulation does not allow the walls to mold and collapse, the dew point moves beyond the outer wall;
resistance to temperature changes, humidity, precipitation, as well as excellent sound insulation should also be attributed to the undeniable advantages of a hinged ventilated facade;
such a design is durable, the period of its operation reaches 50 years;
When insulating walls, you reduce energy costs for heating.

The external insulation of a log house in a similar way can be described as follows:

So that moisture does not accumulate in the wood of the walls, a gap is made between the insulation layer and the decorative finishing material, which is why such a facade is called ventilated. To create air space, a crate is installed on the wall. To make it, marks are first placed on the surface where the bars will subsequently be attached. The width between them should correspond to the width of the sheets of insulation material, and the thickness of the bars is selected depending on the thickness of the mats.
Having placed the marks, the logs are attached to the walls with the help of self-tapping screws. The evenness of the crate is checked with a building level and a plumb line. It is especially important to ensure that all the bars are located in the same plane - this will later help to make a beautiful, even and high-quality siding.
When the elements of the crate are fixed, sheets of insulation are laid between them. They are pressed tightly against the walls and fixed with dowels.
To provide the necessary air space, wooden planks are nailed over the crate and insulation layer. Their thickness should be such that the gap is at least 5 cm.
After laying the insulation, finish with decorative siding.

Insulation of the house with sprayed materials

Instead of sheet insulation, you can also use sprayed insulation, for example, ecowool or polyurethane foam. Ecowool is a cellulose substance that is made from recycled paper, borax and boric acid. The advantages of such material can be considered:

environmental friendliness and hygiene;
good resistance to moisture;
excellent thermal and sound insulation qualities;
fire safety;
non-toxicity;
non-waste use;
excellent vapor permeability;
the ability to fill even the smallest gaps in the walls.

Ecowool has the appearance of a crumbly mass, pressed into briquettes. Before use, such briquettes are opened, their contents are poured out and dried.

If you want to use polyurethane foam as a heater, check out the advantages of this material:

like ecowool, polyurethane foam is fireproof;
it has good sound and heat insulation properties;
considered an environmentally friendly type of finish;
its service life is quite long, and during this entire period the material does not lose its properties;
polyurethane foam is not subject to decay, mold does not form on it, insects and microorganisms do not damage it;
ease of installation due to the fact that it does not require the use of special fasteners.

To insulate walls by spraying, you will have to acquire special equipment. You can buy it, or you can rent it and save money. The process itself looks like this:

Even before purchasing the material, you should calculate its required amount. To do this, measurements are made of the area of \u200b\u200bthe working base, and the consumption of the sprayed insulation is also taken into account.
Then, a crate of wooden boards or a metal profile is mounted on the wall of a log house from the outside. Subsequently, decorative finishing material can be attached to this crate.
Using a special installation, ecowool or polyurethane foam moistened with water is sprayed between the lathing bars. Often, when soaking cotton wool, adhesives are added to the water, which will allow the insulation to adhere more firmly to the surface.
Having processed the walls of the house with a pneumatic sprayer, the material is left until it solidifies completely.
After that, the excess insulation is cut off with a knife, and siding is mounted on top of the crate.

Insulation of a log house from the outside, video:

Thermal insulation of the house from the inside

Is it worth it to insulate a wooden house from the inside?

Few people dare to mount insulation on the inner surface of the walls of a log building. Warming a log house from the inside is not popular for several reasons:

This method of thermal insulation of the building can lead to the accumulation of moisture in the walls, due to which the wood will rot, mold and collapse. It is highly undesirable to use a similar method in baths and saunas, where the air is constantly saturated with water vapor. In winter, when the wood freezes, the dew point is located between the walls and the insulation layer, as a result, condensate accumulates there, which destroys the structure. If you create a good ventilation system in the house, then such problems can be leveled.
The second reason why the walls of log houses are rarely insulated from the inside is the loss of usable area. The space of the rooms is reduced by at least 3-4 cm on each side, and this is especially noticeable in small rooms.
The insulation layer also hides the natural beauty of the log cabin, which is not to the liking of lovers of natural interiors.

However, sometimes the owners of wooden houses resort to a similar method for various reasons. Some, for example, do not want to hide the appearance of the house under a layer of insulation and siding. Someone wants to veneer the interior walls with some kind of decorative material. Regardless of the reasons, the technology of internal insulation of premises should be conscientiously observed so as not to spoil the wooden beams and shorten the life of the building.

The better to insulate a timber house from the inside

For thermal insulation of internal walls, only environmentally friendly materials should be selected that will not emit toxic substances into the air. For example, polystyrene foam is not suitable for such a purpose for several reasons. Firstly, it does not have vapor permeability and does not allow the walls to "breathe". The room turns out to be absolutely isolated, there is no necessary natural air exchange in it. Secondly, during combustion, the foam releases very toxic substances into the air, so that in the event of a fire it is considered an extremely dangerous material.

You can insulate the walls with mineral wool. It is environmentally friendly and does not burn, has good vapor permeability, high thermal insulation characteristics. The most significant drawback of such a heater is that small particles are released into the air, which are dangerous for the respiratory tract. If the cotton wool is covered with a layer of film and finishing, then you can ignore such a minus.

Very often, materials that are completely environmentally friendly and safe in all respects are used for internal wall insulation: linen, jute, wool. Such means of insulation are economical and effective, protect the building from cold and extraneous sounds, and provide good air exchange through wooden walls.

How to insulate a log house from the inside with your own hands

The first step is to carefully inspect the walls for cracks, chips, damage, and the quality of the caulk. All shortcomings are eliminated, cracks are covered with putty. Dirt and dust are removed from the logs, after which the bars are impregnated with antiseptic compounds. If electrical wiring runs along the walls, it is also checked and, if necessary, repaired.
After the antiseptic impregnation dries, cracks are caulked in the walls. For this purpose, jute fiber is used, which is thrust into the gaps with a chisel.
Before insulating a log house, it is also important to take care of creating a vapor barrier. So that the heat-insulating material does not get wet, it is customary to cover it on both sides with a layer of vapor barrier film. Because of this, the humidity in the rooms will increase, in order to avoid this, you should arrange good ventilation in the house.
When laying the vapor barrier material, it is placed with its smooth side against the wood so that the moisture from the logs does not impregnate the insulation.
The next step is the installation of the crate. Wooden bars or metal profiles are stuffed along the load-bearing walls. The step between the boards should be equal to the width of the mats of the heat-insulating coating. Corner posts are mounted in the corners of the room so that the corners are even and beautiful. The crate is fixed on the walls with self-tapping screws, using a level, its evenness is checked. If wood is used for the frame, it, like the walls themselves, is also impregnated with antiseptics.
Between the details of the crate, sheets of insulation are laid, for example, mineral wool. A fragment of the required length is cut from the roll of material and installed between profiles or bars. It is desirable that the width of the sheet be 1-2 cm greater than the distance between the frame parts. Straightening, cotton wool fills the entire space and does not require additional fastening. If the insulation itself does not hold very securely, you can fix it with dowels.
Another layer of vapor barrier film is laid on top of the mineral wool. Its fragments are overlapped and connected at the joints with adhesive tape. The vapor barrier is nailed to the insulation with a stapler. Remember also that the film must be placed with the rough side towards the interior of the room.
The final stage of work is the finishing of the walls. The easiest way is to install drywall sheets on top of the crate, after which they can be painted, covered with decorative plaster or wallpapered.

Timber house insulation. Video

Built from a wooden bar, the house actually breathes, providing a healthy microclimate to the space inside.

A well-caulked facade often does not need additional insulation. However, it is carried out in order to save and save the energy used for heating.

In addition, cladding and effective insulation are one of the most relevant ways to repair a building that is no longer new.

Preparing for insulation

Facade preparation

Warming is carried out according to the principle of a hinged facade. In choosing the most suitable material for this material, the householder often listens to the recommendations of friends and acquaintances.

At the same time, it is important to remember about the dew point, which even the highest quality insulation can shift deep into the wall.

And this is fraught with consequences: condensation collects on the inside of the facade during the cold season. And it causes an increase in humidity, the appearance of fungus and mold.

Before starting work in the outer wall, it will be necessary to repair all the cracks with high quality.

If the house is new, then it is necessary to wait at least a year, as they will appear after it shrinks.

In the old building, all corners and walls are carefully checked. The holes found are sealed with tow or hemp, which will require a chisel. It is advisable to have several of them in different sizes.

Cracks in the timber can be filled with a special compound - wood sealant. Glued laminated timber does not need caulking.

Material selection

After the completion of the restoration work, you can think about choosing a suitable insulation.

Most often used as mineral wool or polystyrene.

Modern foam plastic has its improved version - extruded polystyrene foam. It is characterized by higher strength, even over time it does not crumble into fragments and granules. Ordinary Styrofoam collapses from time to time. Also, an improved type of material is distinguished by its incombustibility.

How to insulate a house from a bar outside?

Such a heater mineral wool well ventilated. Due to this property, it does not lose its working qualities even when wet (it absorbs moisture well).

When choosing a material for warming a wooden structure, the features of finishing materials must be taken into account, thanks to which they can breathe like wood. This is of great importance.

The working properties of wood should not be violated, otherwise the qualitative physical characteristics of the dwelling may change. Therefore, more often the choice falls not on polystyrene foam, but on mineral wool.

The process of warming a house from a bar

How to correctly calculate the required thickness of the material for insulation

Before purchasing the material, it is required to calculate the required amount of mineral wool. Of no small importance is the thickness of the insulation boards.

Too thin is not only a violation of technology, but also sweating and weeping walls inside the building during the cold season. Excessively thick material is fraught with unreasonably high costs. When working, it is important to observe the following provision: the dew point from the wall is displayed strictly in the insulation.

For this reason, the wooden facade is insulated only from the outside.

You can not do your own, rather complicated calculations, and not order them from professionals, but refer to the requirements of a special SNiP, which defines all the necessary indicators for each specific zone.

It is also indicated there that if the wall has a thickness of up to 15 centimeters, then for mineral wool as a heater, a thickness of 5 centimeters is sufficient. A material of 10 centimeters will be too massive.

To calculate the thickness of the insulation, you can use a simple folk method:

If the winter temperatures do not fall below 20 degrees below zero, then with a thickness of 20 centimeters, one layer of 5-centimeter mineral wool boards will be required.
If the winters are colder, and the temperature often exceeds 20 degrees, two layers of mineral wool insulation are used.

Warming outside. Work progress

Suppose we have decided on the choice of material, and we know how thick it should be. All subsequent work is carried out according to the well-known template for mounting a hinged facade. This is a well known technology.

You have to do the following manipulations:

The wooden beam is treated with special compounds - anti-combustible and antiseptic.
A crate is mounted, for which a beam with a thickness equal to the thickness of mineral slabs is used. The step between the individual bars should be equal to the width of the insulation plates, which can be different - it depends on the manufacturer.
Mineral wool is placed between the bars, securely fixed to them with special self-tapping screws with umbrella caps.
A windproof and waterproof film is installed. It is important to ensure that the film is placed on the correct side: glossy to the outside, and rough to the insulation itself.
After that, facing facade slats are nailed directly onto the timber. Finishing can be done with different materials: it can be lining, block house, siding and so on.
It is also necessary to remember about observance of the necessary air gap between the waterproofing and the cladding itself.

This technology provides for high-quality air ventilation of all existing layers, which guarantees the free evaporation of excess moisture.

This method can be used not only to insulate the facade of a wooden house, but also to insulate the roof. The roof can be covered with any suitable material, such as functional shingles.

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