Build a bath with your own hands from a bar. We build our bath ourselves: how to properly build a bath building from a bar. Acquisition and settlement of material

Building a bath from a bar is easier and faster than from a brick, rounded log or chopped log. By quality characteristics it is no worse, and when using glued or profiled material natural humidity even better. This article will become a guide for those who are just going to build a bath from a bar with their own hands. Readers will get acquainted with the main stages of bath assembly, from the foundation to the roof, and will see photos and videos from specialists.

For the construction of a bath, you can use any timber. You need to rely on your wallet and the ability to carry out further finishing or not. It is also important from which timber the main house was built, it is better if the material in the ensemble is used alone. When installing, there are several factors to consider:

1. The type of wood from which the material is made.
2. Beam grade.
3. Type of timber (glued, profiled, edged).
4. The degree of drying of the material (natural humidity or chamber drying).

Easier to build a bath square section, for example, 3x3 or 4x4. At the same time, it is important that standard length timber 4 and 6 m, the rest are considered non-standard and are more expensive. During construction small bath near the house, a box of 3x3 m is considered optimal.

You can assemble a traditional Russian or Turkish bath from a bar, Finnish sauna. The material is not worse than a log and has many advantages. Great option baths for home and summer cottages, the main thing is to choose the right project and assemble a log house.

Log cabins for a bath are sold ready-made “for assembly”, it is easier to purchase and assemble them. And how to do it right we will tell below.

Wood - wood strife

For the construction of a bath, it is recommended to use a bar made of linden or larch. Pine and spruce are cheaper, but due to more resins at high temperatures, the walls will begin to "cry". Of course, you can finish the interior with lime lining, but this is an additional waste.

Lime timber is less resistant to impact environment and moisture, but in the steam room it does not heat up so quickly and is more pleasant in tactile contact with the skin. You can cheat and buy part of the timber from pine or larch, and part from linden. The steam room is assembled from lime material, and the dressing room and washing room are made of larch. However, for such a design, individual project. There is a glued beam, in which 1 or 2 upper lamellas are made of linden, and the inner ones are made of pine., Sample projects easier to assemble from this. Although baths made of larch timber or cedar are also not uncommon. The first option is cheaper.

A, B or C grades, learning to choose for a bath

The grade of the beam is also important. Of course, kiln-dried glued or planed can be purchased without fear. But if we are talking about profiled or edged timber, you should be careful. It depends on how strong and durable the bath under construction will be. Grade A or Extra has no cracks, wormholes, bumps, but its price is higher than the rest. You can build a bath with your own hands from AB or B material. The main thing is to make sure that wormholes and rotten knots do not fall on the timber. Slight color irregularities are acceptable, but should not be confused with blue. Blue is a direct sign of the spread of rot and fungus, and already infected wood will not last long.

Cracks are also unacceptable, this is either a sign of improper drying or incorrect storage. And if the material is of natural moisture, then during shrinkage, the cracks will open and heat loss will increase. And this should not be allowed in the bath.

According to GOST, small companies do not perform sorting of timber, due to the lack of certain criteria by which it is worth subdividing varieties. Therefore, it is worth looking at varieties from various manufacturers, it may turn out that grade C for one will be better than B, etc.

How the manufacture of material affects the construction and use of a log bath

Disputes about which timber is suitable for the construction of a bath do not subside on the forums to this day. It is impossible to say definitely that one of the species is better, since all have their pros and cons:

Chamber drying or natural humidity?

In any case, no matter what the manufacturers promise, a bath from a beam for shrinkage will settle down and will be worse than chamber drying. After some time, the walls will darken, and the cracks will expand even more when dried. The main reason for this is improper drying of the material. A beam with a cross section of 100 mm or more in Russia, few people dry it correctly. Therefore, construction companies purchasing material always measure the humidity in the middle of the product with a manual moisture meter. You can buy timber from the winter forest, when the natural humidity is almost identical to chamber drying. Yes, and construction winter period costs less.

Acquisition and settlement of material

You can calculate the amount of timber for a bath according to the project or on the online calculator, which are many on the websites of any construction company. A well-designed project cannot be completed on its own. You can entrust this part to specialists. When calculating, it is necessary to take into account the features of the structure, as for the beam it should be selected so that there are few joints on the walls. But when buying, it is better to take a small supply (2-3 beams). When building with your own hands, you can accidentally make a mistake and ruin the part. But you should not worry about damaged lumber, it will go to window or doorways, other small parts.

The main stages of installation of a timber bath

The entire installation of a bath from a bar takes place in several main stages: installation of a foundation for a bath, laying the first crown, laying walls, installing a roof (rough or finishing). Let's take a closer look at each.

Installation of the foundation for a bath from a bar

Since the log bath is a lightweight construction, the foundation is suitable for tape or columnar. In any case, pre-marking is done around the entire perimeter.

You can read more about the installation of the foundation for the bath in this article.

Any of the foundations must be further strengthened with reinforcement. It is later used to fasten the crown.

Installation of the first crown under the timber bath

Before laying the first crown, it is necessary to perform waterproofing between it and the foundation. It is best to use a coating based on bituminous mastic. It is easy to apply and dries quickly. After that, the top of the foundation is covered with roofing material in 2 layers. On the strip foundation two rows of small stacks are laid, only after that they begin to mount the first crown.

The first crown is laid with a beam of a larger section and preferably from moisture-resistant wood, for example, larch or aspen. You need to lay the crown exactly on the level. if you skip the curvature, the entire masonry will “crawl” in the future. It is not necessary to bind the lower crown to the foundation, since further pressure on the structure will not allow it to move. But for greater certainty, you can tie in several places with a knitting wire to the reinforcement. But if you want to dismantle the lower part over time will be problematic.

Before styling lower crown need to be treated with deep penetration antiseptics, for example, Senezh. grandfather method engine oil processing is also suitable. Only after laying the first crown correctly, you can proceed to the walls.

Laying timber - the traditional way on the dowels

The easiest way to lay profiled timber. Its lock connection is tightly connected, and the elements fold like children's designer. You can connect the timber to each other with iron or wooden dowels. It is better to use wooden ones, since when the iron dowels dry out, they become visible and the design looks unsightly.

The dowels are fastened by drilling holes in increments of 1-1.5 m. The beam must be drilled so that the first beam passes through the drill, and the second only half. Nagels are driven into the lower beam, and the upper one is simply put on them. Nagel of each subsequent row should not be located one above the other.

A jute insulation is laid between the timber. You can use any other, but in practice the jute tape proved to be better than the rest. So link by link the walls are assembled. It is not necessary to fasten the two upper beams with dowels, since after assembling the box they will have to be temporarily dismantled for installation beam floors.

Door and window openings in the bath for shrinkage can not be completely laid out after shrinkage, they are sawn through with a saw.

The final stage in the construction of the bath will be the laying of a final or rough roof. If the bath is assembled for shrinkage, then the rough roof is laid for a year and only then the final one is mounted. To do this, the top row of timber is covered with boards 50-60 mm wide and closed with roofing material and slate. All Finishing work also begin to perform after complete shrinkage.

For a bath from a bar of chamber drying, a fine roof is mounted, a drain sewer is made Wastewater, drain ventilation system and interior decoration. We will talk about all these stages in more detail in the following articles.

You can do the construction of a bath with your own hands in 1-2 months, but despite the simplicity, a beam of especially natural moisture, 4 or 6 m long, is heavy, so it’s difficult to cope with the work alone, look for an assistant.

- This is a difficult, but quite feasible undertaking. First of all, the owner must choose suitable material for building a bath.

Choosing a place to build a bath

Start with a choice suitable place for the location of the building. The following recommendations will help you with this:

Before starting any construction activities, prepare a bath project.

Determine optimal size structures. One vacationer should have at least 5 m2 of total area the buildings. For example, if you are building a bathhouse for 4 people, its area must be at least 20 m2.

The standard bath consists of a steam room, washing department, dressing room and rest room. Set the dimensions and features of the spatial placement of the listed premises that are convenient for you.

Prepare the following drawings:

You can make all these drawings yourself or find them in an open source. In general, the projects of log baths remain almost the same. If you have the desire and sufficient budget, order the preparation of drawings by a professional.

Materials for building a bath

To build a bath from a bar you will need a whole set various materials and accessories, namely:

• beam. Traditionally, a material with a section of 150x150 mm is used;

  

• floor boards. The best option- four meters edged board 15x5 cm;

  

• ceiling boards. Usually used lining with a width of 10 cm and a thickness of 2 cm;

  

• materials for interior decoration. Lining is perfect;

  

• vapor barrier material. The best option is modern vapor barrier films;

  

• waterproofing material. If possible, use penofol. Polyethylene film is also suitable;

  

• ceiling heater. Mineral wool materials are well suited;

  

• sheet asbestos. It helps you isolate wooden elements buildings from high temperature. Insulation sheets must be fixed to the walls near sauna stove. Also, wooden elements installed in close proximity to the chimney need insulation;

  

• bulk materials for arrangement. The set is standard: cement, sand and gravel;

  

• material for finishing roofs. Focus on your preferences. The main thing is that the roof of the bath looks good surrounded by the roofs of other buildings on the site;
  
  

  

• insulation for interventional space. Use jute. Tow and moss are also suitable.

  

It is best to start building a bath in the spring, because. after the completion of the main activities, the wood will need to be left for a six-month "wintering". During this time, the material will dry and give the required shrinkage.

Buy cement immediately before construction begins.

Bath construction guide

The work is carried out in stages - from preparation construction site before equipping the bath with various accessories.

First stage - Site preparation

Clear construction site from all sorts of debris, shrubs, large roots, and in general everything that can interfere with the construction of the foundation.

The second stage - Pouring the foundation

Attach the batten boards to the rafters. Lay hydro, heat and vapor barrier materials, the insulation of the bath is one of the most important elements of its construction, the quality of the built bath will directly depend on this. Install your chosen roof finish.

Prices for various types of timber

Fourth stage - Interior fittings

Start by arranging the necessary communications.

You should take care of the installation even at the stage of creating the foundation. To do this, create a pit outside the bathhouse either drainage well, connected to the bath by a pipe laid with a slope.

After completing the arrangement of the sewer, make the floor. It can be concrete or wood. Concrete floors are usually tiled. This coating is more durable.

The wooden floor is traditionally made leaky. The technology is extremely simple: logs are installed, floor boards are nailed to them with some clearance. You can also create a small hatch for drains and close it with a perforated grate. Gender in this case should be done with some bias. As a result, moisture from the floor will enter the hatch, and from there it will be discharged through a pipe into a drainage well or pit.

In order for the wood to last as long as possible, carefully ventilate the bath after each visit.

Insulate the ceiling and walls of the building using suitable moisture, heat and vapor barrier materials. Install doors and windows. Connect plumbing and electricity to the bath. Install the necessary electrical appliances.

Prices for thermal insulation materials

Thermal insulation materials

Fifth stage - Furnace and shelves

Choose the design of the shelves at your discretion. They are built in the same order: first, a support frame is mounted from a strong beam, after which boards are nailed to the supports.

The oven is also up to you. You can lay out a traditional one, install a convenient metal unit or a modern electric heater.

Heavy furnaces require the mandatory arrangement of an individual foundation. At this point, everything is also defined in separately taking into account the characteristics of a particular furnace.

Prices for various types of stones for furnaces

Stones for stoves

Step Six - Optional Accessories

At the end, all you have to do is complete your country bath various kinds of accessories, namely:

• brooms;
• wooden mug for adding water;
• buckets;
• various kinds of wooden gratings, etc.

The internal arrangement of the additional premises of the bath is at your discretion.

Successful work!

Prices for bath and sauna accessories

Bath and sauna accessories

Video - Do-it-yourself bathhouse in the country

Country cottage area, Vacation home or simply a private house the city does not cancel the need for hygiene. Most often, the problem is solved by building an ordinary bathroom, which is a combination of a bathroom and a toilet. Nevertheless, for aesthetic reasons, the construction of baths is more correct, since they are also a good place for relaxation, and are also a tribute to tradition.

Peculiarities

A log bath is more popular than other options for objective reasons:

• low thermal conductivity (reducing the cost of heating and accelerating the heating of the room);
• ease of construction that does not require powerful foundations and careful engineering preparation;
• high construction speed;
• simplicity of finishing;
• availability with self-construction.

As for the section 150x150 mm, it is considered quite universal and suitable for use in middle lane RF, because there such material does not create any problems. It is important to take into account that in northern regions you need to use logs with a cross section of at least 20 cm or supplement narrow options mineral wool and other heaters.

Projects

For the construction of baths it is necessary to use spruce and pine wood; cedar is also acceptable, but only in completely exceptional situations. The advantage of such materials is their saturation essential oils, because when heated, the oil evaporates and makes the air in the room very pleasant and healthy.

A 3x4 meter bath project is best done individually, because this significantly increases the aesthetics of the design and allows you to create it as individual as possible. Finished project baths 6x3 or 6x4 meters with a layout has another advantage - it was initially worked out in all details and turns out to be significantly cheaper than a custom-made counterpart.

A bath from a bar 150x150 mm with sides of 6x6 meters has an area of ​​​​36 squares, which makes it possible to make a comfortable and convenient terrace. On this site you can always gather with loved ones and spend time over barbecue. If the dimensions of the bath are 4x4, or 4x6 meters, the removal of the main furnace outside helps to save space. Then in the drawing it is necessary to provide for its optimal connection with the internal space due to air ducts or water pipes.

When the space is even smaller - 4x4, 3x3, 3x2 meters - it is advisable to compensate for this shortcoming by arranging an attic. But even in larger baths, it can be useful, because it helps to more comfortably accommodate after a stay in the steam room, to relax for a while.

Calculation of the amount of materials

It is very important to make sure that the timber does not have the slightest cracks, as they will inevitably provoke shrinkage. Another serious defect is blue spots - this is a sign of the action of insects gnawing a tree.

It is not difficult to calculate the consumption of materials for an average bath from a bar measuring 6x4 m. Shrinkage is often a significant problem as it varies with block size, climate and how well the crowns are insulated. In most cases, it is worth focusing on an indicator of 17 cubic meters. m of timber. First, the volume of materials that will be required for a single row (crown) is determined. Then multiply the resulting parameter by total number rows. See how many pieces are required in terms of 1 cu. m, you can in the table attached to a similar product.

As far as costs are concerned, even if independent work the foundation will cost at least 10 thousand rubles. When hiring performers, you should focus on the lowest rate of 25 thousand rubles. The purchase of materials for a 3x6 m bath will require at least 50 thousand rubles for walls and another 10-15 thousand for the roof. We are talking about the option with a roof made of metal, which is not additionally insulated. The smallest payment for the purchase of the necessary communication products (without their installation) is 30 thousand rubles; the total lower threshold for the cost of construction cannot be less than 100 thousand rubles

How to do it yourself?

Building a bath with your own hands at the stage of building the foundation, walls and roof has almost no difference from the construction of wooden houses.

You will need to do:

• a leisure room (furniture is placed there that can withstand significant humidity);
• shower room (with a floor equipped with drain fixtures);
• a steam room, supplemented by a stove - this is the main room in all baths.

The foundation will have to withstand a relatively small load, so builders can safely choose both columnar and tape structures. Both options are quite simple to perform, even if you work on your own, without the involvement of professionals. The installation site is marked, a trench is dug on it with a depth of 0.7 m (regardless of soil freezing), the width is selected according to the cross section of the timber with a small reserve. The bottom is sprinkled with 10 cm of sand, which is rammed by hand using a rammer. This tool is made on the basis of thick logs and handles attached transversely.

The edges of the trench are equipped with formwork, which is easiest to fold from a shield or from a board, and are connected by spacers. Please note that the formwork should rise above the ground by at least 0.3 m. To simplify the work, fragments of a beam with lower grooves, put on the perimeter of the formwork shield, will help. Continuing to work step by step, prepare concrete mixtures and pour them into the trenches, then wait until the concrete sets and becomes dry. AT hot weather the foundation must be covered from the sun and sprinkled with water to avoid cracking.

Further, roofing material or other thermal insulation is placed on top of the base. Next, you need to build walls from profiled timber. The strapping is the most durable material, which does not have even minor cracks. The selected blocks are impregnated with an antiseptic composition, after which the original crown is attached to the foundation with metal studs with dowels. Alternatively, the bars are put on the reinforcement installed when pouring the foundation.

Places for genital lags are prepared by cutting into crowns. Fastening is carried out using the "thorn in the groove" method, adjacent crowns are connected with wooden dowels, which are hammered into the parts to be joined. When counting the number of rows of material, you need to focus on the average height of the baths from a bar of 250 cm. It is recommended to use not linen, but jute tape for compaction. Conventional gable roofs are the best way to deal with accumulating snow.

Work begins with the creation of nests under rafter legs , and they are made on the final crowns. The counter-lattice is attached to the rafters, boards are sewn onto the slats. After them, they are engaged in a vapor barrier (the gaps between the rafters are saturated with a film) and insulation ( mineral wool must cover the vapor barrier layer). Then comes the turn of laying a film that restrains the spread of water. Finally, it comes to the crate, which supports the main cover (under shingles OSB sheets are used).

Ceilings in attics are mainly sheathed with clapboard, and only in exceptional cases is it replaced with drywall.

Following traditions and in order to save money, most owners of their own plots build baths from high-quality, but inexpensive materials. For example, wood.

As a rule, such steam rooms are built of logs or timber.

lumber properties

The popularity of baths of this type is quite understandable.

Advantages

1. If a bath is being built from a bar 100 by 100, or a little thicker, it gives the walls absolute evenness with a small thickness. Consequently, your steam room will be more spacious and tidy.
2. It is easier to construct buildings from a bar than from a log. For example, it does not need to be trimmed and adjusted manually.
3. Log cabins shrink minimally.
4. Building will be easy. Therefore, there is no need to build an expensive foundation.

1. Buildings made of such timber look aesthetically pleasing.
2. Low price when compared with stone-like materials.
3. The beam is environmentally friendly and makes it possible to create the right microclimate in any building.

Features of the beam and its use

Simplicity of installation of a felling is provided with specific properties of a bar.

1. Its raw materials are logs. They are trimmed on all four sides.
2. This lumber is impregnated with antiseptic compounds. They increase the service life of the block log house.
3. Manufacturers produce a special type of timber - glued. This is the most expensive and high-quality type of material, providing fast construction.
4. Usually, timber harvesting for timber is carried out during the cold season - from December to March.. Such raw materials are of better quality than summer ones.

Note!
After the wood has been harvested, it must age for about 40/45 days.
The trunks are freed from the bark, it is left at their ends - about 10 cm.
The material is stored in piles.
The gaps between the trunks should be 5 cm, between their rows 10 cm, the height of the stacks from ground level - 20 cm.

How to choose a project

A standard bath from a bar 10 by 10 or a slightly thicker material can be equipped according to a standard project.

1. Usually, they involve the construction of three main rooms: a washing room and a steam room.
2. The building, at your choice, can be built in one, two floors, or the last one can be replaced with an attic. In addition /, the building can be supplemented with a balcony, veranda, terrace.
3. To facilitate wooden building, the instruction advises to build the lower floor completely from timber, and make the attic or the second tier frame.

Log construction

First, the construction of the walls is carried out.

Foundation types

When constructing a light bath from a bar 100 by 100 mm, two types of bases are optimal.

1. Column bases. brick, stone, concrete, wooden poles placed around the perimeter of the steam room, its corners and at the intersection points. The step between the posts should be about 1.5 m.
   To increase the strength, the supports must be reinforced and protected with waterproofing between the base of the foundation and the first paving crown. In this case, you can use liquid bituminous mastic or roofing material.
2. The laying of the strip base consists of digging a trench, building a formwork of the required width and pouring it with concrete. Optimally, the height of the ground part of such a foundation is 30/50 cm. Such a foundation also requires reinforcement and waterproofing of the walls.

Wall assembly

1. The first crown (row) of beams is the basis of the entire log house. The durability and quality of the entire building depends on the literacy and accuracy of its installation.
2. Having laid the first row, you can begin the actual construction wooden walls. First, the beams are adjusted to their length. Then on them opposite sides grooves are cut to connect the elements at the corners of the log house.

Note!
It is undesirable to use metal nails and screws when fastening the bars.
It is best to replace them with dowels made of wood (wedges). They are driven into pre-made holes.

1. The connection goes like this. The upper beam is drilled completely, the lower - - half. Next, the upper beam is removed and dowels are driven into the holes until they stop. , then the beam is installed back.
2. As a thermal insulator it is desirable to use natural materials- moss, linen, jute. They need to caulk the walls from the inside and outside.

Preparing the log house for the shrinkage period

The inevitable shrinkage of the walls is influenced by such factors.

1. The type of timber used and its dimensions. Profiled analogues shrink by 2.5/6 cm. Glued material settles by 2 cm or less.
2. The total area of ​​the building. A two-story or attic cobbled steam room will settle more than a one-story building.
3. The type of lumber and its level of moisture. The larger it is, the greater the shrinkage.
4. Steam room location. Everything matters here: whether it is built in the shade, in the sun, on a flat area or with uneven terrain.

Taking into account all these points, a do-it-yourself bath from a 100x100 timber should be built, with their laying in the project.

For example: keeping shrinkage in mind, you need to truss system fix only in some places. So, it will shrink in proportion to the corresponding process in the load-bearing walls.

You can prepare a log house for shrinkage like this. The upper of the crowns are covered with boards having a thickness of 4 centimeters. A slate is mounted on top. When about six months have passed, facing work can begin.

Conclusion

A thin beam has many advantages in the construction of a steam room. However, we must not forget that it must be protected from external and internal influences. If you review the video provided to you in this article, you will learn a lot of useful information on the topic we have voiced.

So, you have already erected the foundation for your bath, and you have chosen timber as the material for the walls. A great option, quite durable, environmentally friendly and easy to use! If you are new to construction, then timber is the best choice.

However, even this simple and versatile material requires some knowledge and skills that are necessary when building walls. Especially for a building such as a bathhouse, for the arrangement of which certain additional steps are needed.

Before you start building a bath from a material such as a beam, you should correctly calculate the size of the lumber for the walls, learn how to connect the beams and splice them along the length, choose a heater for laying between the crowns and much more. Let's consider these questions sequentially.

Initial information about the construction of a bath log house

Building a bath, especially walls for it, can be quite costly.. The modern construction market has a huge range of materials, both traditional and modern, which are widely used in the construction of buildings for a specific purpose. But wood for a bath is the most popular commodity for a variety of reasons. These are long-standing traditions in construction, and wide distribution, relatively low price, environmental friendliness and ease of use.

The beam in this case is a much easier material to work with, moreover, it does not require additional processing, if you buy it and do not make it yourself.

In order not to incur additional costs for wall insulation, it is worth taking a bar with a section of 150 x 150 mm. This thickness of wood walls is optimal, and will allow you to use the sauna throughout the year. To make the connection between the bars more dense, and the view finished wall- aesthetic and pleasant, each beam needs to be trimmed properly.

One of the main positive qualities timber is that walls made of this material do not require; they look self-sufficient, you just need to carefully process the bars. If you are planning to decorate outer sides walls, it will be enough to plan the material only from the side oriented towards inner space bath room.

The first step in the construction of a bath from a bar is the installation of a strapping wreath on a prepared foundation. The best option the choice of timber timber for the strapping crown - hardwood ash, oak and larch. Be sure to process construction material antiseptic substances.

Laying the first crown of the log house

The quality factor and stability of the entire log cabin of a bath from a bar depends on how well you lay the first crown. And you should prepare for this work thoroughly, having calculated each step in advance.

Before laying the first, initial strapping crown, a layer of waterproofing should be laid on top of the bath foundation. Before doing this, check with a level: it must be exactly horizontal. In case of a difference of more than 1 centimeter, level with a concrete mortar.

After that, evenly place the roofing material in several layers, smeared with each other with mastic. Experts call the following stacking technology optimal: 2 layers of roofing material, laying board, one more layer of roofing material. Connect the bars of the first crown to each other in half a tree, and in order to prevent possible later shifts of the bars, arrange a secret spike.

The next step is the insulation of the crown crown. For this, a layer of flax-jute fiber laid over a beam is optimally suited. The next crown is laid on the insulation layer, and so on, alternating timber and thermal insulation. This will help to avoid blowing through in possible cracks, and will also play an important role in the subsequent hydro and vapor barrier of the bath from the inside.

Choosing the right timber for the first crown

The beam must be selected and prepared in advance so as not to be distracted by trifles and shortcomings during the construction process. To install the first crown, you should choose a high-quality material, since the integrity of the structure during operation depends on it:

• the beam must be perfectly flat;
• there should be no knots and chips on the surface;
• the main condition is the maximum density of the beam rings; for the manufacture of such material is taken middle part tree;
• a beam with traces of blue on the surface of the wood is categorically unacceptable not only for the first crown, but for the entire frame.

The finished timber produced at the factory is usually already processed and completely ready for use, but additional processing will not hurt, especially for the construction of a bath. Thoroughly coat the beam with mastic, which is pre-mixed with mining. Impregnation based on this composition is perfectly absorbed into the wood. The ends of the timber do not need to be processed, they should remain bare and release moisture from themselves during drying and shrinkage of the structure.

It depends on how carefully you process the timber, how long the lower crown will last faithfully, and therefore all the walls of your bath.

Methods for locking beams in a log house

There are several ways to connect the timber in the walls of the bath, which will avoid the effects of wind and cold temperatures on the room from the outside. Let's consider each of them in more detail.

Method one: butt joint. With it, the bars are joined at the ends to each other, while each connecting seam is overlapped from above by the next. In order for the butt joint to be reliable and not lose its qualities over time, follow the ends of the bars: they must be absolutely even. The cut makes an angle of 90 degrees.

However, a butt joint, even a very tight one, does not exclude rather high heat losses through such corners of the bath. Well, since the bath should be warm and cozy, it is worth considering a method such as " warm corner”, which is a connection of bars into a root spike.

For such a connection, a special groove is made in the end part of one of the bars, and a vertical spike is made in the other bar, at the end. In some cases, knitting is done according to the principle of a double or triple slotted spike, that is, several vertical spikes are made on the beam, respectively.

Whatever type of timber connection you choose for the walls of your bath, most importantly - do not forget to bookmark interventional insulation between the bars. This will simultaneously increase the density of the connection of building materials and serve as excellent thermal insulation for the entire log house.

Sometimes during construction it may be necessary to splice the bars along the length. In this case, the "butt" method for splicing is not recommended for use. For such work, there are types of splicing that have been used for a long time:

• oblique cut at the ends, or oblique butt;
• end butt joint with a crest preventing the formation of cracks;
• direct overlay method, in which the cutting is twice the thickness of the beam in length;

• a relatively new and more practical method of slanting and slanted escutcheon, which provides resistance to lateral loads.

Insulation used for laying between crowns

As mentioned above, flax jute is the most optimal material to provide insulation between the crowns. Now it can be bought at any building supermarket. This insulation comes in rolls. different widths, depending on the size of the selected log or beam, which greatly simplifies the choice, in addition, it is very easy to cut into strips according to the selected length. This material is made from natural fibers of jute and flax, the composition is maintained in strict proportions.

During the production process, a canvas is obtained high density and uniform thickness, in which the fibers are fastened together with special needles with notches.

By laying a flax-and-jute cloth between the beams as a heater during the construction of walls, you will save yourself from the need for additional caulking, and after the shrinkage of the beam is over, the walls will take the form of a solid monolith. Such a fabric will not spread due to the loads applied by the crowns, it will provide uniform insulation along the length of the seam, it is resistant to moisture, wind and dust, temperature changes and other climatic troubles.

Dowel for timber

The log crowns should be connected to each other around the entire perimeter, as well as in the corners on lock connections using dowels, or wooden round dowels. Such dowels should be made of wood hard rock, that is, larch, oak or ash. The very process of making a dowel is as follows: take an inch board, cut square slats out of it. After sawing them to the required length. Give the slats a rounded shape by squeezing and chipping off the sides.

There is a much simpler and less expensive, "lazy" way to make a nagel. Buy ready-made shovels and rakes from the store, and cut them according to the right size. This can save you a lot of money and especially time.

The installation of dowels in a beam is done at a distance of a meter and a half from each other, and in without fail on each side of the log house at the corners. It is necessary to fasten the timber on those sections of the wall where windows and doors will be located, and fastening should be done 15-20 centimeters before the cutout for the box. This will subsequently prevent the beam from being twisted out of the masonry during the drying of the wood and during the shrinkage of the bath log.

In order to install the dowel, holes are drilled in the beam from above in such a way that the two upper beams are stitched through, and in the third a groove is obtained with a depth of 5 to 7 cm, no more. Strictly maintain the diameter of the dowel: it should be approximately 2 mm smaller than the diameter of the hole. If you do not follow this rule, then during the shrinkage of the log house, the walls can “walk”, which will lead to their significant distortion and affect the boxes for windows and doors. The dowel should easily enter the hole when driving and sink into the upper beam by 5 centimeters.

This method of installing dowels is one of the most common, but far from the only one. Many masters have found their own method, which has become familiar. After all, the most main function dowel - to exclude the displacement of the beam inside the masonry and ensure the log house has the correct shrinkage during drying, during which the wood will freely move along the surface of the dowel.

The technology discussed above will make it easy, without special professional skills, to build walls required height, while taking into account the natural drying of wood, and, accordingly, shrinkage along the height of the log house of the building by about 7-8 percent.

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Completion of work on the construction of walls from a bar

After the construction of the walls from the timber for your bath is over, without wasting time, you should start installing ceiling beams and roof construction. It is not worth delaying with this, since the open interior of the bath is subject to the harmful effects of precipitation and wood, as well as the decay of used wood.

When the roof is installed, you can safely get down to work on waterproofing the walls from the inside and decorative trim outside. But this is a completely different story, you still have a lot to do in order for the bathhouse to please you, your family and guests. And we will cover each step in the following articles.