When building a wooden house from a bar, the latter must be whole, even, without cracks. For indoor living only in summer, medium-thick material is suitable, when used throughout the year, thicker. However, the durability of the building depends not only on the quality and thickness of the wood. Equally important is the interventional insulation for the timber. This material will provide the room with warmth, extend the life of the wood, and can also save the consumer money. About which insulation to choose for laying between the crowns of the building is discussed in detail below.
In winter, the average daily air temperature always drops below zero. Frosts are also characteristic of the warmer season, especially at night. Therefore, the key requirement for interventional insulation is to provide reliable protection from the cold.
This quality is a complex indicator that combines:
- density (closure of cracks by 100%);
- elasticity (the previously mentioned condition must be met even after shrinkage of the house);
- low coefficient of thermal conductivity (approximately like that of a bar; the lower the insulation has, the better the heat is retained);
- absorption and rapid release of moisture in the case of precipitation (to maintain normal humidity inside and protect walls from decay or destruction);
- resistance to external mechanical influences (damage to rodents, birds, pulling away insulation for nests, insects);
- durability (the ability to perform its functions for as long as possible without their deterioration);
- environmental cleanliness (absence of impurities harmful to human health that cause diseases or allergies);
- antibacterial properties (resistance to harmful microorganisms).
Almost any interventional insulation for timber, met by the consumer in a hardware store, to one degree or another meets the above stated requirements. However, choosing the best one for your own benefit will not be easy. To facilitate the task, it is worth familiarizing yourself with two large groups of materials for sheathing wooden structures between tiers.
Types of interventional heaters
All existing materials for laying between the bars of the house are divided into two large groups:
- From artificial components;
- From natural fibres.
- mineral wool (basalt, glass, slag);
- expanded polystyrene;
- foamed polyurethane foam;
- various sealants;
- foam rubber.
No matter how low the thermal conductivity of the listed materials is, they are not used as interventional insulation. For example, mineral wool or foam rubber, shrinking under the weight of the beam, compact and prevent the normal circulation of air and liquid. Also, the interventional space, insulated with these materials, is easily blown through at low temperatures, and the room freezes through.
With moisture-proof heaters (polyurethane foam, polystyrene, sealant), the situation is different - liquid vapors condense at the joints, causing premature destruction of wooden walls. Of course, it is possible to close the seams tightly, eliminating blowing, but what is the use of this if another problem appears?
Most often, it manifests itself when laying the so-called “warm seam”, when a foam tape is applied to the horizontal plane of the beam, then the seams (on both sides) are caulked with a polyethylene cord of a certain thickness, and then an acrylic sealant is applied.
The expectations of the consumer are justified only in part - air and moisture do not get inside the house, but the foam rubber will absorb moisture from the bars and will not be able to dry. Moisture at the joint will inevitably lead to gradual decay of the wood. Summarizing the option with artificial insulation, one thing can be stated - they do not allow the walls of the house to fully breathe, which is just necessary for buildings made of timber.
Natural materials are more preferable, with the exception of wool and cotton. The latter quickly absorb moisture, dry slowly, and are of genuine interest to insectoids. In order for a wooden beam to fully show its positive properties, it is better to choose a heater from natural fibers. The most popular are jute (in the form of a ribbon), linen, moss. They have a low coefficient of thermal conductivity, prevent pests, quickly release moisture after being absorbed into themselves. These materials differ in their characteristics from each other, so it is worth considering each of them in detail.
Features of jute and jute tape
The southern plant of the linden family ranks first in its popularity among interventional heaters. The qualities of the material are:
- excellent hygroscopicity (moisture absorption);
- proximity in properties to wood;
- strength;
- composition (20% - lignin; polymer responsible for moisture resistance);
- uniformity and ease of installation (jute is usually sold in the form of ribbons unwound along the tier of the house / bath);
- economy (no need to apply two layers of material).
It is usually superimposed in one layer, but to increase the heat-insulating characteristics, it is permissible to bend the tape in half (doubling the insulation). Jute has a light golden or grayish tint, so it looks perfect between tiers. However, the insulation should not be strictly gray - this indicates the presence of linen impurities added by the manufacturer for its own savings. The grayer and softer the jute in question, the more flax it contains and the worse it will restore its shape after getting wet. Do not buy gray insulation.
Insulation materials containing linen
- linen felt;
- lnovatin.
The properties of insulation resemble jute, but at the same time they are cheaper. Linen felt, also called eurolene, is a material obtained by needle punching. The fibers of the plant, when punched with a sharp object, become tangled, further strengthening the structure.
Lnovatin is obtained in a slightly different way - by needle stitching, so it is not as dense as previously described. Both materials are not liked by birds, insects and rodents, although they are made from natural materials. As an interventional insulation for timber, it is used extremely rarely and is not recommended by experts.
Types of moss used in the work
Insulation for timber containing moss is in demand among representatives of the "old school". The most popular are cuckoo flax, sphagnum and red moss.
The material is laid in large quantities. All knots, bumps and other debris are first removed, then it is abundantly wetted (it will be easier to shrink). With use, the moss will not rot, as the plant appeared in an environment with high humidity. Since it is placed on the line in large quantities, it is much easier to caulk in the future. The use of natural material will provide good natural ventilation.
Sphagnum, cuckoo flax and red moss have a number of disadvantages. For example, this is their fragility when completely dry and abundant shrinkage; Because of this, the insulation layer has to be updated periodically. Another disadvantage is the difficulty in laying; either a beginner will have to fiddle with moss for a long time, or pay money to more experienced builders.
The result of the consideration of popular interventional insulation for timber will be the conclusion: jute and moss are the best materials for thermal insulation of a building. The first is a little more expensive, but easier to fit; the second is cheaper, but working with it is more painstaking. It is advisable to give preference to one of these heaters.
The cost of a heat insulator for crowns is about 1/50 of the price of the entire building. The wrong choice of insulation will increase the cost of saving heat at times. Save wisely, don't skimp on high-quality natural material and don't pay attention to attractive synthetic counterparts. Jute and moss - that's what will save you in the cold season.
So, what is interventional insulation? In simple terms, this concept is general - this includes all building materials that insulate and seal interventional joints in log walls. Most of them are based on flax and jute, although modern heaters already have an artificial filling, which, however, is not quite suitable for a bath. And this article will help you figure it all out - how to choose interventional insulation for a bath, and whether it is worth the risk with popular, but not intended for this purpose, materials.
Mezhventsovy heaters, time-tested
Option #1 - jute and its derivatives
The most popular today is jute - a southern plant from the linden family, which grows in warm and humid countries. It is more expensive than linen, but also of higher quality. Its most valuable advantage is its amazing hygroscopicity. Jute itself is closest in its properties to wood: it is durable, hygroscopic and consists of 20% lignin polymer, which determines its resistance to moisture. For comparison: in conifers, lignin is only 24%. The only point: when used in baths from glued beams, the width tolerances should be minimal: only 1-2 mm.
The color of jute is quite nice - light golden, and it looks great in the walls of the bath. But some manufacturers, for the sake of profit, also add flax fiber to this material, because of which it significantly loses quality. You will determine this catch right away - the grayer and softer the jute, the more linen it contains. Avoid this purchase. So what's wrong with flax in jute? The fact is that pure jute has a surface density of 400-800 g per square meter. It is from this indicator that the caking of the insulation and the uniformity of shrinkage of the bath directly depend. Linen has a much lower density. The second important point: when installing dowels, pure jute is not wound around the drill.
Option # 2 - tape heaters
Particularly convenient to use is a tape interventional insulation for profiled timber: environmentally friendly and natural. You will purchase it in the form of a ribbon, and in the store you will immediately be offered its different lengths and thicknesses. Why? Because the bars come in different parameters, you will need to make the necessary measurements in advance. Such a heater should be used as follows: we bend the strips along and put them between the crowns so that the folded edge is inside the house. At the same time, leave 5 mm to the edge of the beam - this is how you get beautiful bath walls with even sealing seams. And yes, lay the tape tow in 2 layers.
It is also becoming popular and such material as lnovatin. In terms of its qualities, it is similar to jute, but it is cheaper. The seam turns out to be even, and there is no need to additionally sheathe the internal walls. This is an environmentally friendly insulation for profiled timber and rough logs, which "breathes" and provides quite effective thermal insulation. And the birds usually do not like it.
Option # 3 - good old cuckoo flax
And to this day, many builders remain faithful to the "real Russian interventional insulation" - moss. They only recommend putting it in large quantities, not sparing, removing all the cones and branches from it. If you took it too dry, you can safely wet it before use, so it will wrinkle much better. And finally: today wool is practically not used in construction - it has too many shortcomings.
Of the newest materials, there are many reviews about euroline - supposedly it was they who assembled the house for the president. They make it in Finland, and of different types: the more expensive one will never rot, no matter how wet it is, and the second one can only be used with dry timber. With a damp forest, it turns black and turns into dust. It also attracts with its quality a new Finnish interventional insulation PP-TERMO. Here are its competitive advantages:
- Resistant to mold and various microorganisms, does not rot.
- It has low water absorption, and therefore is always dry. This, in turn, significantly increases the life of the wood.
- It is not pecked out by birds - it is simply difficult for them to reach.
- Fire resistant - even has the appropriate certificate.
- It does not need caulking - after drying, the log quickly restores its volume and fills all the cracks and gaps itself.
And it has an unlimited service life - almost forever.
Materials unsuitable for insulation
Option #1 - mineral wool
Ordinary mineral wool also cannot serve as a heat insulator for timber in any way - its moisture absorption is close to zero for its threads. All the moisture in this material is held by the tension of the fibers and does not disappear anywhere. In addition, this material allows heat to pass through and even creates a dew point when kindling a bath. And yet, unscrupulous builders sometimes manage to use it too.
Option #2 - isover
As for Izover, which has recently become incredibly popular, in those places between the crowns where there is no gap, it is compressed by almost 100%, and here its heat transfer is somewhat less than that of other material under the same conditions. But in places of gaps, Izover is a little fluffy and quite normally copes with its functions as a heat insulator. On the other hand, Izover’s ability to receive and remove moisture is almost the same as that of many other interventional heaters, but this material does not burn, does not rot, it does not need to be caulked and over time it does not crumble like dust. Unpleasant dusting can be eliminated with a sealed finish.
So, let's sum up. Here is what Izover is preferred by many as interventional insulation:
- Does not burn, does not rot;
- Convenient to work;
- It compresses well and leaves no gaps;
- Birds don't like it
- Doesn't need an extra caulk.
But this fashionable material also has a significant drawback: it is not very environmentally friendly, and when slightly torn, it emits caustic and allergic dust. And it also quickly accumulates moisture ... And many lazy builders convince future owners of baths to use this interventional insulation - after all, it is much easier for them to work: it is cut easily, just rolling over a log, construction goes quickly and costs less. That is why, despite advertising from neighbors, not many people want to put Isover in the walls of the bathhouse - especially those who saw it in the process of use: even with a dry beam, the insulation turned out to be 2/3 wet.
Also, similar synthetic materials often serve as a dangerous source of phenol. So, we conclude: mineral wool in a compressed state does not remove moisture at all, and Izover, if it is not closed with a vapor barrier, completely turns into a sponge. The decision is yours.
Option #3 - polyurethane foam
Used as an interventional insulation and polyurethane foam. It is valued for the following properties:
- Fast technological installation.
- Good adhesion, thanks to which the beam sticks together tightly. When drying, it will not twist, and the steam room will not warp.
- Foam seals corners in a log house much better than moss or tow.
- The hardened one-component foam is not flammable and does not emit toxins, which, however, cannot boast of a multi-component one.
- The process of caulking after foam is quite simple.
But for all its advantages, foam as an interventional insulation does not please with such qualities:
- It is not elastic, which may cause microcracks over time (and a tree, like any living material, can slightly change its volumes).
- In winter, it does not tolerate cold - it crumbles.
- Low resistance to ultraviolet best. Over time, the sun turns to stone and crumbles.
- Not environmentally friendly enough.
And, note, polyurethane foam as an interventional insulation is used relatively little today, and therefore many other negative consequences of such insulation are not yet known. But the foam itself is also used as interventional insulation in such an alternative:
- Option number 1. The beam is laid in half a meter, and after the construction is completed, they are foamed. So it supposedly dries faster, and then the remaining wide gap can be foamed. Quick, airtight and no need for caulking. From the inside of the bath, the cracks are caulked with a linen rope.
- Option number 2. Before applying the foam, allow the bath to sit completely on the tow. After all, the settlement of the building occurs due to the shrinkage of the beam itself - and this is at least a year and a half. After that, a 5 cm gap is punched in the tow and a groove is foamed, and, finally, they are protected with a sealant along the seams.
As for the choice of foam brand, Macroflex Pro is the most suitable for this purpose. In a word, there are a lot of materials, and, as they say, how many people - so many opinions. There are also bathhouse owners who built their steam rooms ten years ago and are quite satisfied with Izover as a sealant. They argue that after the rains the timber will be wet in place of the insulation, regardless of the type of the latter: is it moss, or modern material. And the main advantages become a decisive factor: it is cheapness and ease of construction of styling. It is only important not to take the cheapest Izover (it is also called Chinese) - you can really get poisoned from it.
What is suitable for the walls of the bath?
For a bath, you can use only that interventional insulation that allows moisture to pass through itself, without accumulating it at all - these are all materials with a capillary fiber structure. Moss, jute, linen and some of their derivatives. Yes, only natural materials have such properties! And all synthetic moisture always accumulates, which is why the tree then rots, and the seams are not ventilated at all.
Experienced builders, behind whom there is more than one wooden bathhouse or house, are advised to choose interventional insulation not according to advertising, and not according to the success of their neighbors, but exclusively for each specific case. Somewhere, foam plastic is really needed - there are such construction technologies, but for most buildings it is completely unsuitable.
So, what you first need to pay attention to is the density of the insulation. For massive baths made of profiled timber, a thickness of 3-4 mm insulation is sufficient if its density reaches 300-400 g / m 2. But for steam rooms made of heavy logs, this indicator is already different - 4-5 mm, and the density should be at least 500-600 g / m 2. For a bath house with two floors, focus on 8-10 mm thickness and 700-800 g / m 2 density. But where problems can arise: if the sealant has a density of 300-400 g / m 2, but at the same time it was put in 6-7 mm, expect “bald spots” soon. Reliable insulation will not work here. If the sealant was applied to 5-6 mm, but at the same time its density was from 700-800 g / m 2 - this is already too “stuffed”. So the material will not be able to evenly fill all possible irregularities of the bars after shrinkage of the building.
So what insulation should you use? It depends not only on whether you bought the wood raw or dry, but also on the processing of the wood itself. So, for a bathhouse made of logs and profiled timber, such natural materials with a layer of 5-10 mm are suitable for you:
- Linen jute;
- jute felt;
- Linen felt.
And for a chopped bath, use 10-15 mm each:
- Linen felt;
- jute felt;
- Construction tow, sold in bales;
- Tow tape linen or jute;
That's all the subtleties. Understand this issue well before building a bath - the quality of its walls directly depends on this!
Interventional insulation is one of the important elements of a wooden structure. Which interventional insulation you choose will determine the microclimate in your wooden house. For effective and environmentally friendly thermal insulation of a wooden house or a bath, it is best to use the THERMOFIBER interventional insulation.
The main advantages of interventional insulation
Firstly, this interventional insulation is made from hollow polyester fibers, which are 5 times thinner than natural jute or flax fibers.
At the same time, the material is absolutely vapor-permeable (your house breathes).
Secondly, the material is environmentally friendly for humans and the environment.
Thirdly, interventional insulation does not absorb moisture, this is one of the important indicators, since raw insulation cannot be a good heat insulator.
Fourthly, due to the elasticity of hollow fibers (the fibers do not break like jute or flax), the material restores thickness from full compression to 90%.
For example, THERMOFIBER, thickness 20 mm, density 300 g, will shrink under load up to 1 mm and straighten out evenly filling the gap or cavity between the beam or log up to 18 mm, thereby eliminating blowing and providing reliable thermal insulation.
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Videos interventional insulation
The use of interventional insulation
For interventional insulation of profiled or glued beams, the interventional insulation THERMOFIBER 15 mm thick is used.
Interventional insulation for timber: an excellent material for wooden housing construction
Laying interventional insulation is made in the profile of the timber. At the same time, a material with a thickness of 15 mm will shrink under a load of up to 1 mm and restore the thickness by 90%, while not preventing shrinkage of the entire structure.
For interventional insulation of rounded or chopped logs, the interventional insulation THERMOFIBER 20 mm thick is used and fits the width of the moon groove with or without a hem (at the request of the client), the interventional insulation of 20 mm will shrink under load to 1 mm and restore the thickness by 90% while not will prevent shrinkage of the entire structure.
How much does interventional insulation save
The interventional insulation THERMOFIBER can really save up to 100,000 rubles and these are not empty words.
For example, your log house is 5x10 m, two-story, wall height is 5.7 m, a log of 240 mm is used, 24 crowns. The perimeter of the first crown is 30 linear meters ((5 + 10) * 2 \u003d 30), the total perimeter of the house is 720 linear meters (30 * 24 crowns).
The cost of caulking a log house is 70 rubles / linear meter (prices of 2017), caulking is made on both sides, the total cost of the work alone is 100,800 rubles (70 * 2 * 720). You may need to caulk every year as the jute or moss is pecked out by birds. Summing up, THERMOFIBER saves 100 800 rubles.
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jute flaws
As long-term practice shows, jute or linen are NOT good and durable interventional insulation for a wooden house or bath.
They have a number of disadvantages, which indicate that these materials cannot be used as interventional insulation for logs and timber.
Firstly, jute or linen absorb moisture very strongly. That is, at 100% humidity, jute will absorb 30%, while it dries very slowly (from 2 to 4 days). That is why, jute (linen) was chosen as a material for making burlap for the transportation of bulk goods such as sugar, rice, sand.
But this quality of the material suggests that jute does not allow moisture to pass through, and not that it is a good heat insulator. Since the wet material loses all its properties.
Secondly, many builders believe that jute or linen do not rot due to the high resin content in these materials. This is a direct delusion, jute or linen rot and create a favorable environment for the development of fungi and microorganisms, since it is a natural material.
You yourself can conduct a simple experiment, take two wet boards (of natural humidity) and lay jute or linen between them and leave it indoors under pressure for 1-2 weeks. Then open it and see what you got.
And in conclusion, your builder makes money on the caulk of a log house, if jute or linen is chosen as an interventional insulation.
jute rots
These photographs were taken at the sites where wooden houses were built.
As can be seen from the photographs, the jute has already begun to degrade the wood, although the log cabins are still under construction. The rotting of jute or flax is due to its natural origin, that is, there are a lot of microorganisms in jute, which, when they enter a humid environment (and wood has a moisture content of 30-40%), begin to multiply instantly creating favorable conditions for the development of various fungi that immediately begin to infect the tree .
And if the external manifestation of the fungus can be fought (cleaned, sanded, painted), then how to deal with the fungus, which has already formed in the interventional grooves.
And remembering such a quality of jute (flax) as hydrophobicity (moisture absorption), then the fungi will receive constant nourishment and their population in the grooves of the log house will only grow.
And it’s not even scary that the wood will begin to collapse, but that the fungi multiplying produce spores that can cause various allergic diseases.
Articles about interventional insulation
Jute and jute fiber characteristics and disadvantages
What thickness of jute insulation is better to insulate a house from a bar?
Timber houses are different. There are houses made of glued and planed profiled timber and there are wooden houses made of ordinary sawn (unplaned) timber.
Accordingly, each type of timber is recommended to have its own interventional insulation made of jute. For example, the walls of a house made of glued and planed timber have fairly clear parameters and are of better quality in execution. Mezhventsovye grooves in the walls of such wooden houses, as a rule, are minimal. In this case, interventional jute with a thickness of 5-6 mm with laying in one layer can be recommended.
In rare cases, in the terms of reference for the assembly of such walls, an insulation with a thickness of 8-10 mm is indicated. The width of the tape in these cases depends on the width laid down by the designers in the interventional groove.
A photo: construction in the Moscow region of a cottage village with houses made of timber of natural moisture.
For houses made of ordinary unplaned sawn timber, the minimum thickness of interventional insulation in the region of 8 mm is recommended.
This option is often used: a jute tape 5-6 mm thick is taken and laid with a hem on one or both sides. Thus, in the edge places of the timber with crowns, the thickness of the interventional jute tape is 10-12 mm.
The nuances of choosing interventional materials
In wooden houses from ordinary sawn timber, in addition to the importance of selecting interventional insulation in terms of thickness, the correct installation of the dowel in the timber wall and its quality is very important.
So that the sawn timber of natural moisture does not spin, it is very important to install round wooden dowels in the timber in a checkerboard pattern with an interval of at least one and a half meters.
Advantages of interventional insulation made of jute for timber
The choice of interventional insulation is a complex and responsible process, especially when it comes to such a structure as a bathhouse.
She is simply obliged to keep heat well, therefore, a serious responsibility falls on the heater, which, of course, must be dealt with. In this regard, I would like to note the interventional insulation made of jute, which is preferred by many experts, calling it the best option in terms of price-quality ratio.
Before starting a story about its benefits, let's draw your attention to the fact that we are talking about a heater made from a natural material - the fibers of an annual jute plant that grows in Southeast Asia, China and Kazakhstan.
The price for such interventional insulation is not high, but this is not its main advantage, especially if you are talking about warming a bath. The fact is that jute is very strong and resistant to decay. That is why it is used for sewing bags for storing various crops.
Advantages of choosing materials for timber
But the most important thing is that jute is able to stay dry.
Even if the relative humidity, let's say, around it, is 80%! Agree, this material is indispensable for a bath, and therefore it is actively used for warming buildings made of timber, rounded logs, frame-panel structures. Why did we mention wooden construction options? The fact is that jute is ideal for wood in terms of its technical characteristics.
Watch a thematic video on choosing interventional insulation for timber:
In particular, we are talking about the capillary structure of the fibers, low thermal conductivity, excellent natural ventilation.
In addition, jute insulation has a high surface density, and this indicator is achieved not like in many synthetic materials, by the method of chemical gluing, but thanks to the so-called technique.
Choosing interventional insulation for a wooden house
needle punch. What does it say? The fact that such a heater is durable, and also absolutely safe from the point of view of ecology. The last nuance is important, the heater for the bath will be regularly exposed to high temperatures, therefore, in this case it should not emit fumes harmful to human health.
Question answer
We publish a typical question of a buyer from the region of the Russian Federation and our answer:
Buyer Message:
I need jute thickness 8-10 mm 800 m (100 mm) 800 m (150 mm) and 160 m (20 mm) and delivery to Kaluga
Our answer:
Then, if you are an individual, and not an individual entrepreneur or LLC, then you will need to pay for the goods on our SBERBANK card by Monday - November 7th.
In case of your payment before November 7, we will send you the agreed interventional insulation to you - according to the details that you give us after payment.
If you agree, then write a confirmation, we will send you a card number to pay for the goods.
Conclusion
When choosing high-quality gasketing interventional materials for a house made of timber, we advise you to get qualified advice from our company. Phones for consultations on the choice of interventional insulation for timber are indicated in the "header" of our website and in the section contacts.
The use of interplanetary sealant in the construction of a house from profiled beams
In this article, we review and compare the options for using cross-industry sealants in the construction of houses from profiled beams.
One of the characteristics of the operation of wooden houses (including houses made of profiled beams) is that, under the influence of environmental conditions, the elements of wooden structures can change their geometry to some extent.
This leads to the creation of a gap between the structural elements of the wall and, consequently, reduces the thermal insulation properties of such a structure.
Therefore, in practice, the construction of wooden houses has become a widespread use of various interplanetary seals.
It should be noted that in the construction of houses from profiled beams, the use of interlaced spacers is due to the properties of the upper and lower surfaces of the beam. In this regard, the main possibilities for using alternating sealing materials in the construction of houses from profiled beams:
- Use of jute and ginatin fillings.
This option is traditional for wooden housing construction, but when building a profiled beam with a “main” profile (Fig.1) the use of jute and lornokin strips is difficult because
How to choose an intervention house thermal insulator
Beam profiles do not have large holes for sealing tape. For this profile, these seals can be used up to 3 mm. In this case, they do not have the properties of filling the slots between the crowns, the appearance of which is possible due to the reduction of the house.
This confirmed the traditional wall sealing in Russia.
- Use of polyethylene foam sealant.
Polyethylene sealants (proven as a laminate substrate) are highly resistant to moisture, good thermal insulators are not infected by various bacteria and fungi, they are not interested in rodents and insects.To be thinner than jute and laminate, PE foam tape can be placed between the rings in a rod that has no holes in the profile.
But due to the low thickness and properties of the "dissipative" foam, the polyethylene tape will not be able to close the gaps caused by the possible deformation of the rod.
- Use of foamed rubber sealant (EPDM) (picture 2). Self-adhesive foam seals (usually used for sealing window frames) do not contain the defects associated with the previous options.
These seals are easily inserted into the profile groove (Fig. 3) and retract their shaft when the shaft is deformed, which covers even very important slots (up to 7 mm). In addition, a number of Finnish companies that are leaders in the construction of wooden houses are currently using this seal (Figure 4).
Modern man has long been accustomed to the fact that it is customary to use apartments in high-rise buildings as housing. They are built of foam concrete and brick. For wall insulation in these buildings, materials of synthetic origin are increasingly being used, which, although not harmful to human health, are sometimes not able to perform their direct functions.
That is why residents of megacities are trying to move into houses made of natural wood. If this is not possible, then you can build a house outside the city.
For this, logs or timber are usually used, insulated with jute thermal insulation.
Varieties and features of jute insulation
Before you lay jute on a beam, you should become more familiar with the varieties and features of this material. It has a natural origin, therefore it is close to dry wood. We can assume that jute is a dry grass, a spinning crop that successfully replaces flax.
Modern jute thermal insulation has excellent characteristics, among them:
- ability to seal joints;
- biological inertness;
- no unpleasant odor;
- tight fit to the beam and log;
- steam capacity;
- decay resistance.
Additional Benefits
Jute insulation is also quite dense.
If you purchase high-quality jute, then its density will be 60 g / m2, while the layer thickness can be up to 10 mm. The length of the fiber does not exceed three centimeters.
You can meet jute insulation in several varieties, in the first case, felt is added to the material in an amount of up to 15%, in the second - flax - up to 50%. Pure jute and jute with linen impurities are produced in rolls of different widths.
Selection and styling
Before you lay the jute on the timber, it is important to choose the right material.
It is necessary to start work on insulation only some time after the completion of the construction of the house. During this period, the wood will reach the desired moisture level, and the walls will shrink. But even after the thermal insulation has been carried out, the interventional insulation will let in moisture that comes from the beam or log.
With the help of thermal insulation, it will be possible to fill the joints in order to exclude the formation of cold bridges.
By choosing a thicker seal, you will ensure that it is easier to install. The material should be placed in the connecting groove so that it does not move, and after it is pressed with a log, the insulation must be fixed with a stapler, installing fasteners at a distance of 250 mm. If you purchased a ribbon that is too wide, then its edges must be tucked inward. The tape should also be located in the bowls.
Features of caulking
Laying jute on a beam is a prerequisite for insulation.
Some masters believe that there is no need to caulk the joints, but in practice this procedure is still required.
Once the log is seated, it can be twisted a lot. On one side of it, a 0.5 cm gap is formed, while on the other side the seal is strongly clamped.
In this case, caulking helps, in which it is best to use tow or ribbons.
This must be done only one and a half years after the construction of the house. In some cases, the installation of interventional insulation does not involve turning the ends of an overly wide tape. In this case, the ends will hang down on both sides. After the house shrinks, the hanging ends can be hammered into the joints.
However, in this case, you may encounter a problem, which is expressed in the fact that after 2 years the sealant deteriorates under the influence of ultraviolet radiation, moisture and wind.
Between the joints, as a result, you will have to hammer in low-quality material, which does not always allow you to achieve complete sealing.
Why choose jute sealant
If you have not yet decided whether jute will be laid on timber or any other material, then you should familiarize yourself with this issue in more detail.
First of all, they begin the construction of a wooden house, pursuing the main goal - environmental friendliness. Other materials can be used for caulking the joints between the crowns, namely:
- lnovatin;
- liquid acrylic sealants;
- linen rope.
One of the advantages of jute over the above materials is that it does not wind around the drill.
The insulation has such a structure that when drilling, the metal does not adhere to the thermal insulation, which is very convenient when working. In addition, jute is ready to serve exactly as long as a wooden house will stand.
The declared service life of thermal insulation is 75 years.
Some owners of wooden houses do not use jute to insulate the crowns of the timber, preferring acrylic sealant.
Experts believe that the feasibility of this approach may be questionable. Although the joints will not let the cold through, the walls will lose their ability to breathe. The steam will stop circulating and the wood may begin to rot.
Styling features
You can independently lay the jute on the beam, the features of these works require compliance with several rules.
It is important to lay the tape on the connecting groove. It should fill the space of the bowls.
Without bends, the material is laid if the house is built from an ordinary log or glued profiled timber.
Sometimes the insulation has a double-sided bending; this solution is suitable for houses made of chopped or rounded logs. The material can also be laid with one-sided bending, this method is suitable for structures made of planed timber.
It is also important to take into account the dependence of the thickness of the insulation on the material of the walls. If it is supposed to use glued laminated timber during construction, then the insulation should have a thickness of 0.5 cm.
When the system is based on a rounded log, it is necessary to purchase insulation with a thickness of 0.8 to 1 centimeter. If you plan to use a chopped log, then the jute should be up to 1.5 cm thick.
Work technology
Quite often, novice craftsmen wonder how to properly lay the timber when using jute insulation.
The work will consist of several stages.
How to choose interventional insulation for timber? Manufacturer reviews
The first involves the distribution of insulation along the interventional grooves, at the next stage the material is fixed with a stapler. Next, the next log or beam is laid, and at the end of the crowns, the thermal insulation is cut off with scissors.
As soon as the laying of the log house is completed, the protruding parts of the insulation can be caulked inside.
It is important to pay special attention to the fact that the grooves must be completely filled with thermal insulation. When installing log walls, which will be assembled manually, it is necessary to select thermal insulation depending on the quality of the interventional joints. The neater and denser they are, the easier it will be to insulate the walls. But, as practice shows, hand-assembled log elements are of average quality. In this case, it is important to know how to properly lay the jute on the timber.
Said insulation material is combined with an analogue in the form of tow.
Lay out the thermal insulation with your hands and place it in cuts and grooves. In the place where the thickness of the jute tape is sufficient, you can fix the tow with a stapler.
Recommendations for laying jute between round logs and beams without longitudinal grooves
Quite often recently, home craftsmen have been laying jute.
At the same time, a profiled beam or rounded log is insulated in one layer. When using conventional timber, thermal insulation must be laid in two layers. This rule will be more applicable to timber houses that do not have longitudinal grooves.
This building material is devoid of recesses for insulation, it is not possible to form a thermal lock in it, so it will be subject to blowing.
Conclusion
A prerequisite for the construction of a wooden house is laying jute on a beam. Interventional insulation made from natural materials is preferable compared to synthetic sealants, which, although easy to use, do not allow the wood to breathe.
As practice shows, the technologies for warming wooden residential structures, which were popular with our ancestors, are not only more familiar, but also more reliable for a Russian resident.
Before laying the frame, beams for beams (logs)? Tips, reviews, recommendations
During the construction of a wooden frame, whether it is a frame for wooden houses from a bar or a frame for a wooden bath, the question naturally asks - how to build a log from a wooden (log) bath?
In the photo - lining between the logs of a wooden frame made of moss - Kukushkin flax.
Since the composition of the wooden cabins, natural material has been planted in the intermediate space, mainly from vegetable origin, as it was easier to obtain and use throughout.
What to choose embedding a wood heater - tips and tricks
Before laying the frame, beams for beams (logs)? This question has been interested in the construction of wooden houses and wooden baths for many years.
What building materials made buildings in ancient times?
For a long time in Russia, materials such as crane, moss and fluffy pine wood were used to house houses.
The most popular for this task was drag and drop, once the walls of the apartment were completed.
Photo: It usually looks like a tugboat that heated up the gaps between the logs in ancient times.
Hell, with the help of a specially designed tool for this purpose, was cut into the space between the magazines.
In addition, this must be done both from the outside and from the inside. Otherwise, the whole building may be short after use.
It should also be noted that with proper handling of rubber parts, the height of the walls increased by 10 centimeters. Considering that for a log cabin, as well as for modern buildings, the characteristic shrinkage occurred when the wood yarn was pressed, as a result, a year after the construction of the house, the walls began to stain again.
If the house is made of wood, it is better not to replace it. In addition, such models have surprisingly small gaps, in which it is quite difficult to correctly place the patch.
Photo: An excellent choice for laying logs is moss with the exotic name "cuckoo's lan".
You can buy this material from our company. Store - warehouse is located in the east of Moscow, in Moscow.
No less popular material was also mosses, which are not subject to rotting under the influence of the environment and protect the tree from which the house was built before this accident.
Photo: A good interventional heater can be obtained from moss sphagnum - a swamp.
Fluffy wood, which is essentially cellulose, is a material made up of very short fibers.
As a result, there is a problem when it is impregnated with moisture, as soon as shrinkage begins, it becomes less elastic, which reduces the tightness of the seal. Therefore, the main condition for the long-term and efficient use of fluffy wood is considered between the logs, so that it does not come out of the gutters and is not wet.
Photo: on the left side of the photo - jute and on the right - llena llena (flnovatin).
The main stackers between the logs were bathtub and tree moss, flax fiber, jute fibers.
The use of these plants for masonry among the crowns of a wooden house was not only practical, but also very functional. All of them belong to hydrophobic plants and have excellent hygroscopicity, as well as sphagnum moss, which contains antiseptic substances.
Such interventional insulators have been and remain the main tool for heating a wooden house, but they are now available for some purposes thanks to advanced modern technologies.
In the same way, some manufacturers initially impregnate materials with antiseptic compositions to prevent decay and improve their quality properties.
In the photo - a high-quality material for laying wooden chalets between logs - jute tape is a dye.
The need for laying for a wooden house or a bathroom with an interventional heater is mainly due to the provision of an appropriate microclimate for the interior of the house, i.e. directly with insulation.
Tomorrow tapes, linotine and other heaters securely lock the joints between the logs, isolate cracks and cracks. Due to their special properties, these materials perfectly absorb moisture not only from the inter-spring space, but also from the surrounding air, as if it is too dry, it returns moisture. Today, having considered experienced builders - laying, a wooden house and logs, the most popular material for the construction of log cottages and log baths, houses from load-bearing and other wooden buildings, jute tape.
In the photo there is a wall covering between cylindrical logs with jute tape.
This type of insulation - pads - are made from jute fibers that grow mainly in countries with warm and humid climates, such as Bangladesh, India, etc.
The plant consists of the following: when the time comes, the jute with your hand is cut as it grows in the water. Then it is dried and washed in running water to facilitate the separation of the fibers. Only after the implementation of these procedures, the jute goes to the processing plant, where the needle is a non-woven fabric for laying logs and wood fibers from fibers. Depending on the desired end result, jute fabric comes in different thicknesses and thicknesses.
For laying between crowns of logs - a wooden house, use a dressing tape cut from canvas and twist into rollers of a certain width. Standard cuts can be called cylinders with a width of 10, 12, 15 and 20 centimeters. The cylinder is unloaded onto a bowl of logs or inside a rod and attached to it with a construction clamp.
If desired, the jute tape is treated with an antiseptic.
conclusion
This is our answer, advice, guidance and feedback to the question - what would create a house from a wooden sauna and frame houses and log baths, including roundwood and hand-cut logs.
All these soft materials are available in our warehouse in Moscow, where you can order and buy them. Need more feedback, tips and advice from the experts?
