The choice of material is the primary problem that everyone who decides to build a small, reliable and comfortable house on their site with their own hands faces. The modern building materials market can safely boast of a huge range of raw materials for every taste and budget. Most people prefer wood. And it is not surprising, because a wooden beam is an environmentally friendly and inexpensive material.
This material is presented in several variations, but in the article we will talk about how to build a house with our own hands from profiled timber, since it is he who is the most common and has the simplest installation technology. It is very malleable for processing, which means that you can easily carry out electrical wiring, plumbing and sewerage.
Drawing up a plan, preparing materials and tools
It is simply unrealistic to build a house without a good project, so it is very important to take this stage extremely seriously, especially since it is on it that you can clearly understand what you can save on.
Ideally, you can seek help from special design agencies. For a fee, they will individually draw up a complete layout of the future home, taking into account the size and shape of your territory, soil composition, financial capabilities and, most importantly, personal preferences.
If you do not have a need for some miracle of design ideas, then you can build a building using standard options. To do this, all the necessary documentation can be found on free Internet resources or you can use one of several 3D editor programs, including FloorPlan3D, CyberMotion 3D-Designer, SEMA and many others. The latter, by the way, is designed just for the planning of houses from a bar. SEMA will help you carry out all the necessary statistical calculations, choose the type of truss system and much more.
Everything should be indicated on the drawing, from the overall dimensions of the building and the number of floors to the location of door and window openings, furniture, all communications (light, water, heat).
As soon as the plan is in your hands, you can proceed to the calculation, if this has not already been done, and the choice of the required materials and tools, including:
- Beam as the main building material.
You can buy ready-made beams with the necessary cut grooves and spikes - bring it, install it - use it, also thanks to the perfectly flat and smooth surface of the edges there is no need for additional finishing work, or you can buy wooden blanks, and make the cuts yourself, there is nothing complicated in this, and you can save a lot.
Experts recommend taking a bar with a section of 150x150 mm during construction. But since you have to work alone or with an unskilled assistant, it is better to use material with a section of 150x100 mm. Such a beam is much lighter, and the missing volume can be restored in the future by insulating the facade outside the building.
- Insulation.
To further save money, as a heater, you can use materials that, so to speak, are “at hand”. The best among these is considered moss. It is not difficult to find and process, and in terms of its technical characteristics it is identical to its artificial counterparts.
- Nails, self-tapping screws and other fastening structures (metal corners, wooden dowels, and so on).
- Waterproofing material (for example, roofing material).
- Ready-made concrete mortar or components necessary for its preparation (water, sand, crushed stone, cement).
- Reinforcement (if a strip foundation is planned).
- Saw.
- Electric jigsaw.
- Screwdriver.
- A hammer.
- Construction rubber hammer.
- Roulette.
- Building level.
- Plumb.
- Circular Saw.
- Pipes for water supply and sewerage.
- Cable for wiring electricity, TV.
- Master OK.
- Caulker.
- Other tools for small and decorative work.
Harvesting wood and moss for construction
In order to build a warm and cozy house from a bar, in addition to knowing the technology of laying crowns, it is important to understand which type of wood is best suited for this purpose.
Each breed, of course, has its own advantages and disadvantages, but the main thing that you need to pay attention to when choosing lumber is strength, density, moisture resistance and degree of drying. So, if the tree is fragile, then your house may simply fall apart very soon, if the density is low, then such material can shrink up to 20 or even more percent. If a lot of moisture accumulates in the wood fibers, then such a house will never be warm, but if the raw material is under-dried, then it will be simply impossible to work with it, over-dried - the material will become too unreliable.
Very serious requirements are imposed on the walls of the house, as they must provide warmth, comfort and low noise levels in the premises, especially since wood is a rather fire hazardous material that can deform due to precipitation. That is why experts recommend purchasing timber from conifers, such as spruce, cedar, fir, larch and some others. Due to the high content of resinous substances, conifers are resistant to decay, cracking and other deformations. Also, the trees of this breed are very durable, light, so they do not create too much load on the foundation.
By choosing a softwood timber, you can save money by building a foundation using a simplified system.
If you decide to harvest the wood yourself, then you should know that the humidity coefficient should not exceed 20%, otherwise cracks will soon appear in the walls, which will require additional processing, and this is an extra cost of effort, time and budget.
When harvesting, take into account the fact that it is better to do this in the winter period of the year (from January to March), since in winter the process of photosynthesis slows down and the speed of movement of juices along the tree trunk becomes minimal.
Cut the lumber to the desired shape and size, treat with an antiseptic and leave to be stored in a dry place inaccessible to sunlight. The bars must be stored compactly in special stacks, at a height of at least half a meter from the ground. There should be a gap of 4-5 and 10-15 cm between the crowns and rows. To do this, several transverse beams are inserted between them. After lying like this for 5-6 months, the tree is ready for further processing and installation.
In order to keep your house warm in inclement weather, you should think about choosing an interventional insulation. Professional builders use modern tape materials, but the price for such a pleasure is quite high, so we recommend paying attention to moss.
There are more than 300 species of this plant in the world, but only a few varieties are used for construction purposes, among them: sphagnum, cuckoo moss, red and peat. All of them have excellent bactericidal properties and are excellent natural antiseptics. Among the minuses is a high flammability, since after drying the moss becomes dry and brittle, for example, at high temperatures it can spontaneously ignite, to prevent this it is treated with special means.
Moss must be collected, you can find it in marshy areas - these are long, up to 30 cm, stems with small leaves, dry and store in a dry place for about two weeks. Plastic bags can be used as bags, but then the moss will be a little wet. There is nothing wrong with this.
Foundation construction
A high-quality foundation is the key to a reliable, stable and durable home. Since it is he who is the main supporting structure, which must withstand the total weight of the building, such high requirements are placed on him.
When building a house from a bar, three main types of foundation are used:
- Pile-screw.
- Nest.
- Tape.
The choice of the type of foundation depends mainly on the soil on which the construction of the house is planned. This issue needs to be resolved at the planning stage. You should conduct a soil analysis, you can also ask your neighbors what foundation their houses stand on, or look for information in documents on the purchase of a plot or other reference literature.
If the soil is heaving or watery, and also if you plan to use the house only seasonally, and not live there permanently, then one of the first two options is used. If it contains a large amount of sand or clay, then a strip foundation is suitable.
The first thing to start with is cleaning the area from debris, thickets, bushes and other objects that may interfere. Immediately before digging, it is necessary to mark up. To do this, use ordinary wooden pegs, which are placed at the corners of the site, as well as along the bearing walls, and the thread that is pulled between them is simple. The next steps depend on the selected type of foundation.
Pile screw foundation
After the territory is cleared and ready for further manipulations, we proceed to earthworks. It is better to pre-purchase metal piles in a specialized store, since it is quite difficult to build such structures manually. Choose supports of the same size and be sure to have drills already welded on one end.
Due to the special design, the piles are easy to install on their own, while keeping an eye on the angle of inclination. A building magnetic level can help you with this. Also, if there was no cap on the screws, you need to install it yourself. To do this, use a processed sheet of metal 25x25 cm and 5-6 mm thick.
Nest foundation
The nested foundation differs only in that instead of metal piles, either monolithic concrete supports or hollow pipes with a diameter of 250-300 mm are used, into which cement mortar is poured after installation.
As soon as the marking of the territory has been carried out, at selected points along the perimeter it is necessary to dig holes with a depth of 2/3 of the height of the support. A layer of sand is poured to the bottom, moistened and tightly packed. After that, support structures are inserted into them at a right angle, if necessary, a solution is poured inside and into the space around them at the bottom. The remaining gaps between the supports and the ground are covered with a mixture of sand and gravel.
There is also an option to install formwork in dug pits and pour concrete mortar to the ground level, we recommend using M400 cement in a ratio of 1: 3 with sand. After the cement has completely dried, the formwork is removed and aerated concrete or foam blocks 20x20x40 cm are laid on top.
Strip foundation
The strip foundation is the most common, as it can be used in the vast majority of cases, for example, if you are planning to build a heavy two- or more-story house.
The first step is to dig a trench with a width of 10-15 centimeters more than the thickness of the walls and a depth of 50-70 cm. It should be located at a height of at least a meter from the groundwater level.
There are several options for the strip foundation, among them:
- Brick.
- Concrete.
- Stone.
For any of them it is necessary to prepare the basis. A layer (10 cm) of sand is laid at the bottom of the trench, moistened with a small amount of water and carefully compacted; if necessary, sand can be poured in two layers. A layer (15-20 cm) of rubble, broken bricks or small stones is poured over it.
By the way, you can pre-lay geotextiles at the bottom of the trench, and heat-insulating material can be installed along the outer edge - this will help prevent freezing of a shallow foundation.
On the resulting pillow, if it is planned to build a brick or stone base, a little before reaching the top of the foundation, you can install the formwork. Inside, it is necessary to pour a layer of mortar to the level of the ground surface and tamp. To increase stability, we recommend creating a reinforcing frame from metal rods with a diameter of 1.2-1.5 mm.
Already on top, after the solution has completely solidified, bricks or stones are laid, which can be ordered, or used independently found near any reservoir. On top of the masonry, another reinforcement belt is installed and concreted (height 5-10 cm) and leveled.
If a concrete base is planned, then the height of the formwork should reach 30-50 cm, the thickness is 2-3 cm. If the formwork is planned from wood, then the material should be free of cracks, chips, bumps and other defects.
The reinforcement is installed in increments of 10-20 cm. The distance between rows is 5-10 cm. As a result, a grid with cells of 15-20 square cm should be obtained. The rods are connected to each other with a rigid wire, this whole structure is poured with cement mortar, which can either be bought or prepare personally. We recommend spending money on a concrete mixer - this will save you time and nerves, since mixing cement manually is quite long and difficult. Pre-formwork must be moistened with water or wrapped with a layer of plastic film.
It is very important to prevent the appearance of bubbles before the solution solidifies. A vibrating hammer will help with this, or you can simply punch holes in several places, later they will need to be filled with mortar.
The foundation is left to dry for 3-4 weeks. The formwork can be removed after 5-7 days, during which and a few more days, the solution must be sprayed with water in order to prevent cracking of the foundation. Don't forget to make holes for wiring.
Construction and insulation of walls and floors
The crowns of the first row are connected to each other traditionally, regardless of the method of connecting the subsequent rows, the “half-tree” is a fairly reliable and simple type of end cuts, and they are not laid directly on the foundation, but on a lining of small slats located transversely to the beam itself , at a distance of 5-10 cm from each other. The gaps between the rails can be filled with mounting foam. To cut the end cut, you can use a hacksaw, in order to remove excess material, go through the chisel.
So, if the slats rot, they will be easier to replace than a whole row of timber. The boards also need to be treated with an antiseptic or ground to prevent the development of fungus and various microorganisms, and laid out on a foundation covered in two layers with waterproofing material, such as roofing material.
The beam of the first row should be slightly larger than the crowns of the other rows, for example, if material with a section of 150x150 mm is used for walls, then for the first row use the option with a section of 200x200 mm.
It will be possible to mount logs for the subfloor on the lining of the boards using steel corners and nails or self-tapping screws. It is necessary to attach to them, the so-called cranial beam, on which the edged board for the subfloor will be laid in the future. A layer of waterproofing should be laid on top of the draft, and on top of it, insulation boards, such as mineral wool, polystyrene foam, or any other modern analogue. The next layer is a vapor barrier, and after - a finishing floor.
All subsequent rows are stacked identically to each other. There are two main ways to fasten bars:
- "With the remainder" is when a small part of the timber sticks out from its two ends.
- "Without a remainder."
The picture below shows different types of end cuts.
This manipulation can be done using a circular saw or a jigsaw. Options "A" and "D" ("no residue") are the most reliable for residential buildings, but also the most difficult to install. Recommended for areas where annual precipitation does not exceed 300 mm. Option "Z" is used to connect internal load-bearing walls. Also note that the tenon-groove joints must be left with a gap of half a centimeter for the insulation.
Between themselves, the rows are fastened with wooden or metal dowels. We recommend using the second ones, since the lumber will not crack during drying, which will ensure the durability of your building.
Using pins for fasteners, it is necessary to drill holes with a diameter of 30-40 mm. It is necessary to drill so that the beam of one row of dowels passes through, and the beam of the lower row is only partially, or you can use short dowels, for this, holes are cut from two opposite sides, a dowel is driven into one with a hammer, and simply inserted into the next. Remember that pins should not be located on top of each other. In order for the design to be as stable as possible, arrange them in a checkerboard pattern, as shown in the figure below.
If the walls of your house turned out to be longer than the timber - it does not matter. In this case, it is necessary to cut a rectangular hole at the end of one beam, and a rectangular protrusion right in the center at the end of the second, so you get a tenon-groove connection.
The space between the crowns can be insulated with pre-collected and dried moss and tow. The tow is laid across the beams, while the moss is simply thrown over the top. Thus, when installing the upper crown, part of the insulation will stick out - this is not scary, since work on caulking is planned in the future, and it, in turn, will provide maximum thermal insulation.
In order for the bars of one row to be at the same height, we use a rubber mallet, tapping it along the walls after installing each bar. The planer is used at the end, only after you have noticed that due to the unevenness of the bottom row, it is impossible to install the timber of the upper row.
*Important! Don't forget to alternate corner joints.
The last two rows of crowns are not attached, since in the future, after shrinkage, a rafter system will be installed. To do this, you will have to temporarily dismantle these two rows.
To design door and window openings, you can use two methods: either lay out all the rows, and then, after making a mark, cut out the necessary holes with an electric jigsaw, or use beams of this length in advance so that they later form windows and doors. Remember that the size of the openings must exceed the size of the door itself or the window, as there is still room for the installation of window and door frames. It is also necessary to leave a gap of 10-15 cm above the windows and doors. This is necessary so that in the future, when the beam shrinks, not to damage the construction of windows and doors. It will need to be filled with liquid insulation.
Roofing roof
After the last row of crowns has been erected, the building must be covered with roofing felt or slate and allowed to settle. The shrinkage period on average takes up to 6 months, only after that you can proceed to the installation of the roof and facing work.
There are a huge number of variations of roofs. The most reliable and stable is considered to be a four-pitched or hipped roof, it is used in regions with high humidity and strong winds, but since it is quite difficult to build it without the help of specialists, we recommend installing a gable roof. We will briefly describe the installation steps and the main elements.
First you need to isolate the surface of the walls from moisture, using, for example, roofing material. It needs to be applied in two layers. After the Mauerlat is attached - the base for the rafter system, in which special cutouts are made, with which the rafter legs are attached. Mauerlat will serve as the top row of crowns, pre-treated with an antiseptic.
The rafters themselves, depending on the area of \u200b\u200bthe house, must be made of timber with a section of 100x50, 150x50 or 200x50 mm. They should not protrude beyond the house by more than half a meter, if more, it is planned to install additional supports. A wooden crate of slats 5-6 cm thick and 10-20 cm wide is installed on the rafter legs in increments that depend on the roofing material (tiles - planks are laid end-to-end, if slate or corrugated board - at a distance of 30 cm from each other). Sometimes a counter-lattice is installed, on top of which the roofing material itself is mounted. Insulation, vapor and waterproofing are laid in the resulting space between the two crates.
The ceiling consists of several ceiling joists, which are fastened using the tongue-and-groove method to the top row of timber. The rest of the manipulations are identical to the floor. Between the finishing and rough ceiling, you can additionally lay insulation, insulation. In the future, this can reduce heat loss by up to 30%.
In order for the roof to be stable, strong, withstand strong winds and last for many years, it is worth thinking about additional supporting structures, such as crossbars, struts, puffs, racks and others. All of them are fastened with hardware, such as steel corners and self-tapping screws.
Do not forget to leave ventilation gaps, a hole for the chimney and an attic, if one is planned. The fronts of the roof can be sewn up with clapboard, decorative block house.
Remember! Every roof needs repair over time. Therefore, in order to reduce financial costs, experts recommend annually checking the coating for damage and various deformations, such as deflection and leakage. The first is eliminated by installing additional supports (crossbars, racks, and so on), and the leak is eliminated by replacing the rotten roofing material.
Let's summarize
The last stage of construction work is the installation of entrance and interior doors and windows. If necessary, work is carried out to insulate and decorate the walls either inside or outside the house. Conduct electricity, water, heat, connect the sewerage system.
Now that you know the main stages of building a house from a bar on your own, as well as ways to save money, you can start building a warm, cozy and reliable home that will warm and delight you for many years.
How to build a house from a bar. Video №2
How to build a house from a bar. Video #3
How to build a house from a bar. Video #4
At the moment, building a house from a bar with your own hands is much easier than before. Almost everyone now has a computer at home and an Internet connection, where you can find tips and advice about this type of construction, so as not to make unnecessary mistakes.
In principle, such a house can be built using two construction methods:
- first, you can find a company that manufactures sets of houses from a bar, and order a log house of the required size, and after its delivery, assemble this set with your own hands. You will spend much less time on assembling such a house.
- second, you buy the required amount of timber and assemble the log house, cutting it to the required size yourself.
For the construction of walls, a beam with dimensions of 15x15 cm is required, and for partitions a beam of 10x15 cm is used. Before starting to assemble the house, it is advisable to treat the beam with an antiseptic solution to protect the wood from woodworms, rot and mold.
On the prepared foundation we lay the first row, which is called the strapping. It will differ from the rest of the rows in that its corners must necessarily be connected to each other. This can be done by laying the corner beams overlapping, for which it is necessary to cut off a half of each beam from opposite sides to the width of the beam itself and then fasten them with a dowel. Nagel, for a fortress, it is desirable to make from a birch board.
Logs under the floor can be laid so that they are connected with the first crown. In this case, it is necessary to mark the logs and make cuts according to the markup to a depth equal to half the height of the beam. Then he washed down to chip, trim, lay the log, after laying the insulation and fixing it with a dowel.
Before laying the second row of beams, a heater is laid on top of the first row. As a heater, you can use natural material moss or tow, you can felt. Partitions, without fail, crash into the walls, and insulation is also laid on them, otherwise their height after assembly will be less than the height of the walls. The rows are fastened together with dowels, which are hammered into holes drilled in two bars.
The height of the walls after the assembly of the log house should be within 3 meters. If the house is one-story, then on the penultimate crown it is necessary to lay ceiling and rafter
beams, they also need to be cut into the penultimate crown and secured with a dowel.
Under the rafter beams should protrude beyond the frame for a distance of about 60 cm on both sides.
Rafters can be installed from a 10x15 cm beam, cutting them into a lock with a rafter beam and additionally fastening it with special brackets or brackets. To give
stiffness to the rafters, about 2/3 of its length we install a tightening, and under its ends we install rafters. To give the rafters a vertical position, we install braces.
We make the crate from edged or unedged boards 30 mm thick in increments of 10-15 cm.
We close up the gables with a tongue-and-groove board, but later it will have to be oiled and painted, or, as many do now, they are covered with corrugated board.
To cover the roof, you can use metal tiles, corrugated board, corrugated board. Choose the color of this material at your discretion.
We put wooden entrance doors. Windows can be plastic, wooden, but made according to modern technologies with seals and double-glazed windows.
It remains to do the interior decoration, but before proceeding with it, you need to wait some time for the house to shrink.
A demanded phenomenon in suburban areas is the construction of wooden houses. Because the timber house is of high quality and comfortable. Moreover, it looks quite chic from the outside, you can see this by looking at photos of wooden houses. The construction of such a house can afford not only the elite. The ability to work with a chainsaw or an electric saw makes it possible to build a reliable house from a bar with your own hands.
Timber house construction technology
The beam is considered a universal building material, and it is quite simple to operate. The huge demand for wood is due to its economy and environmental friendliness. The simple technology of building log houses does not portend a large investment of time. You should catch all the nuances of the work presented in the video lessons and photos, as well as in the articles, and even inexperienced builders will have a chance to build a house from a bar with their own hands.
In the construction of a house, everything has to be done in stages, then the speed and productivity of construction is guaranteed, and a certain period of time must be maintained between some stages.
Step-by-step instructions for building a house from a bar
Material selection
The duration of construction and its technology proportionally depends on the type of timber. It is faster to build a house from dried wood, but given the material costs, the construction will cost much more. It is cheaper to build a building from raw timber, but construction in this case takes more time.
For the construction of housing, the following types of wood are used:
1. Profiled timber.
2. Whole bar.
Benefits of profiled timber:
— resistance to deformations;
- minimum construction costs;
- the risk of decay is excluded;
- excellent thermal insulation;
- high-quality armor from blowing;
- no additional wall cladding is required;
- simple assembly ensures the speed of construction;
- impressive appearance.
Flaws:
- high flammability;
- needs to be impregnated with means to increase biosecurity and fire protection;
- formation of cracks at elevated temperatures;
- need additional insulation of the walls;
- it is impossible to carry out redevelopment of the erected log house;
- dependent on weather conditions.
Advantages of a solid bar:
- does not require the use of special equipment;
- there are no problems with the acquisition, since such a beam is widespread;
- low price, makes the timber affordable for everyone.
Flaws:
- finishing costs;
— low protection against blowing;
- decent cracking of the timber;
- such a construction needs double-sided cladding;
- need careful selection: compliance with GOST, the absence of fungus;
- in the presence of a fungus, the timber needs to be treated with antiseptic agents.
When choosing, you should bet on the wear resistance of wood. Accuracy in the choice of timber, as well as adherence to technology, are a guarantee of the quality of the house.
Preparation of materials
All the necessary volume of material should be collected before construction begins. The purchase of materials provides for two development options:
- purchase of finished timber. When ordering a material, the customer indicates all the necessary measurements and purchases a finished beam with grooves, which can be used immediately;
- purchase of wood, which you need to prepare with your own hands. In this case, you have to cut the bars yourself, after which it should be treated with an antiseptic. Only then will construction begin.
When buying wood, you should pay attention to the following factors:
- the quality of the tree;
- did the beetles feed on this timber and whether they live in it;
- are there any through cracks in the tree;
- Is the beam affected by a fungus?
Project development
Drawing up a diagram of a log house requires attentiveness and accuracy of calculations. It is quite possible to draw a project with your own hands.
Creating a plan consists of several steps, which include their own nuances:
1. Determining the size of the house and directly its scheme.
At this stage, it is important to take into account the features of the purpose of the premises and the functions that they will perform, as well as all the necessary systems (ventilation, heating, etc.). It is important that rooms with high humidity (kitchen, toilet, bathroom) are located next to each other.
2. Calculation of the amount of materials.
When calculating the consumption of material, you need to take into account the thickness of the tree, as well as its length. An ordinary beam is six meters high, so if the walls of the house are planned to be longer, they are joined along the length.
Many construction companies create projects for timber houses on order. When drawing up drawings, all rules are observed. A house built according to such schemes will be geometrically correct and earthquake resistant. Also on the Internet you can find many photos with examples of ready-made schemes for timber houses.
Foundation laying
The foundation for a wooden house must be very strong. When choosing the type of foundation, the following circumstances should be considered:
— soil characteristics;
- features of the design of the house;
- the magnitude of the load of the structure.
By the volume of lumber designed for the construction of a house, it is easy to calculate the load of the future structure.
Foundation options:
1. Shallowly recessed tape.
2. Deep recessed tape.
3. Columnar.
4. Pile.
Pile, as well as shallow foundations are considered more economical. But more popular is a shallowly buried strip foundation.
The foundation of such a foundation should be laid to a depth of 50 to 70 cm.
Laying the first crown
So that high humidity does not disable the first crown, a buffer element should be created between it and the foundation. Such an element is a lining board impregnated with an antiseptic (50 mm thick), which is usually made of larch.
Before laying the board, the side of the base adjacent to it is covered with two layers of roofing material. A layer of waterproofing will provide a cut-off of moisture.
Wall mounting
Step-by-step laying out rows of timber is the construction of walls. Pins are used to prevent displacement. Rows of wood are attached to them. Tight corner connection is provided due to the presence of grooves and spikes.
They should be additionally insulated with tow or other sealant. Laying out the phalanges of the beam, the spikes and grooves alternate.
There are several methods for connecting beams at the corners:
- connection in a warm corner;
- connections in the bowl;
- connection in the paw.
On the video on the Internet, you can find and watch a detailed briefing on the corner connection of the beam.
In places where the installation of doors and windows is planned, the size of the beam is calculated, taking into account the size of the opening. All openings are weak points for walls. To make the wall stronger, some bars are laid clearly according to its size. When the assembly of the log house is completed and it settles, the excess material is cut out.
To increase strength and fire resistance, the walls are treated with special substances. To increase wind protection, all seams should be caulked (plugged). Many builders of their wooden cottages post a video on the Internet in which they step by step present the installation of a log house.
roof construction
The high probability of repairing the roof after the construction of the house is guaranteed by its complex geometry. Therefore, the roof construction technology should be simpler. Therefore, it is better to build a gable roof.
After the construction of the walls, ceiling logs are placed on them so that they protrude 50 cm beyond the wall. The gap between them should be equal to the width of the insulation used 60 cm or 90 cm.
Next comes the assembly of the truss system. To strengthen the rafters, crossbars and racks are used. Then the fronts are sewn up. The lathing is carried out with a maximum step of 400 mm, and is attached to the rafters.
Finishing work
You can look at the video how houses made of timber look like, and how they are finished with all the nuances.
Floor arrangement
During the installation of log cabins, along the floor beams, a preliminary floor covering is created. The floor itself is installed in two steps:
1. Laying the floorboard.
2. Laying the subfloor.
The floor needs to be insulated; for this, mineral wool or other heat-insulating material is placed between the boards of the subfloor.
For flooring, in addition to the floorboard, you can also use laminate, as well as other materials.
Ceiling arrangement.
To reduce heat loss at home, the ceiling must be insulated with at least 200 cm of insulation. It is placed between the ceiling beams and protected with special vapor barrier and moisture barrier films. The ceiling of wooden houses is sheathed with clapboard. Large beams, if desired, can not be sheathed, they will serve as decorative elements.
Interior and exterior decoration
Sometimes just painting the house is enough. This applies to those cases when a profiled beam was used.
While the house is being built with their own hands, a long time passes, and the quality of the wood surface changes characteristically. Therefore, the timber should be re-sanded before painting.
Communication networks are laid inside. In the photo on the Internet, you can see the result of finishing work in wooden houses with a variety of design styles.
Window installation
In the places intended for windows, special openings (pigtail) are created. To do this, grooves are cut out, a bar is placed in them, preferably not back to back. It should be smaller in length, so that when the walls shrink, it is possible for the beam to fall. Thanks to this, the shrinkage goes smoothly, and at its end, windows are mounted.
It is not necessary to install wooden windows, you can also plastic ones.
Installation of doors and partitions
Doors are installed using the same technology as windows.
Install partitions, only after assembling the log house. If a two-story house with an area of more than 60m2 is being built, then the first floor, which is not equipped with partitions, makes the building structure dangerous. For safety and strength, at least one partition is required.
In principle, building a house from a bar with your own hands is not at all difficult. You can watch video tutorials in which all the nuances of construction are considered step by step. The very technology of building a house is simple and if you follow it, then the built house will be durable for many years.
Video. A detailed film about the construction of houses from timber
As before, today, building a log house with your own hands was considered a laborious process. However, living in such a house is a real dream of any person who respects natural materials. In addition to beauty and comfort, wooden houses have good thermal insulation properties, it is always warm in the rooms in winter, and in summer direct sunlight cannot warm the timber to the end, which allows you to keep cool.
Building from a bar is not only stacking logs on top of each other, it includes the stages of material procurement, pouring the foundation, erecting walls and roofing the house. As additional work, insulation of the roof and underground space can be used. The phased construction of a house from a bar, that's what will be discussed in this article.
Choice of wood
Before you build a house from a bar with your own hands, you should make a choice of the material from which the house will be built, several options can be considered here. The main criteria for choosing wood include:
Viciousness - many grades have a very high strength index, some can be comparable to metal in this parameter;
- Thermal conductivity coefficient - depending on the type of wood, it may vary slightly, but in general the ratio is approximately the same for all varieties;
- Price - in this category, bars with a higher resistance to moisture and those that are denser will be more expensive.
Most often, coniferous types of wood are chosen for construction from timber, this is due to the low coefficient of thermal conductivity and durability of such a material. The needles are less susceptible to decay processes and can withstand significant loads.
The difference between solid and profiled timber
Both types are suitable for building houses from timber with your own hands, but it is important to know the difference between them for the right choice of material.
The difference between a profiled beam, judging by the name, is the presence of spikes and grooves on its surface, in the upper and lower planes. The spike and groove occupy the entire length of the beam, and have a well-finished surface, which allows you to connect to each other like a large designer.
Here are the main advantages of building from profiled timber:
- Dimension - this material of timber houses has standard dimensions, and if necessary, can be ordered individually. The surface is well finished, and the docking elements fit exactly to the size;
- Resistance to deformation - due to the fact that this material almost always undergoes a drying procedure before processing during operation, it does not deform. Another factor that indirectly affects the elimination of deformation is a special shrink groove;
- Protection against rotting - due to its even surface and tight fit, water does not have the ability to accumulate in cracks, even during periods of sudden temperature changes, ice cannot penetrate into cracks when frost and thaw change;
- Additional work - there is no need to spend time on insulation by caulking joints after shrinkage;
- Simplicity of work - building a house from a bar with your own hands simplifies the fact that all the elements are assembled according to the scheme and you still have to try to assemble it incorrectly. This has a positive effect on the timing of the work.
A small list of disadvantages of building from profiled timber include:
There are more disadvantages, but you can deal with all of them when building a house from a bar with your own hands:
- Finishing work - construction from solid timber rarely ends with a simple erection of walls. If this is not a bathhouse or utility room, the surface of the house should be additionally sanded, varnished or sheathed with clapboard;
- Susceptibility to rotting - the natural moisture content of a single piece of timber has this effect. To combat this phenomenon, it is necessary to treat the surface of the house with antiseptic agents every year, and then the wall will not rot;
- Caulking - should be done several times. Immediately during construction, it will help to caulk the joints of walls and corners only in the first year. After each shrinkage, this procedure will have to be repeated;
- Longitudinal cracks - during the drying period, their occurrence will be inevitable.
Do-it-yourself log house step by step instructions
Like any building, a house should start from the foundation, and before building a house, the area should be cleared of excess rubbish for convenient marking, and then we build a house from a bar with our own hands according to the plan:
- Marking - with a small size, a house made of timber 6x6 meters, for example. It will not cause any particular difficulty. Drive in four pegs in the corners and check if the diagonals match in length;
- Trench - needed only in the case of a strip foundation, it must be dug 800-1000 mm deep;
- Pits - suitable for a columnar foundation, their depth should be approximately at the same level, and the width is equal to the bayonet of a shovel. Depending on the size of the house, their number should be determined, on the basis that the distance between them should not exceed 600-700 mm;
- Pillow - the first layer of the foundation should be a puff pillow of sand and gravel. It will provide acceptable play for the foundation. Sand is poured first and rammed, then crushed stone follows and is also rammed. How to make layers thicker? You can water the bottom of the trench with water;
- Formwork installation - formwork should be raised to a height slightly greater than the desired level of the foundation. The easiest way is to make formwork from boards with a thickness of at least 30 mm (to avoid pushing concrete under pressure).
- Pouring concrete - if the house is small, then it is quite possible to do this process manually or mix the ingredients with a concrete mixer.
Composition of concrete
There are several options, let's focus on the one that can easily withstand the walls of the timber with your own hands, based on one batch in a concrete mixer:
- 3 buckets of sand;
- 1 bucket of rubble;
- 1 bucket of cement grade not lower than 400;
- Water as needed.
Preparing the foundation for building a house from a bar with your own hands - after it has stood for 3-4 days, you can remove the formwork and start processing it. Bitumen should be heated on a fire and brushed over the entire surface of the foundation with a brush, the layer should be thick enough. When the bitumen hardens, you can roll out the roofing material over the entire surface. For more reliable protection, a second layer of roofing material should be put in, having previously lubricated the first with bitumen.
Walls and floor
If you do not know how to properly build a house from a bar, then the method of building walls is given below:
- The first crown - for greater reliability, the assembly of a house from a bar is carried out with a lining under the crown of a larch board with a section of at least 150x50 mm. The bars impregnated with an antiseptic are usually joined at the corners using a half-wood joint, this is considered the most rigid joint, and it is quite tight;
- The wedding board is placed so that rotting does not spread from the beam, but from it. When this process begins, it will not be difficult to replace the board, which cannot be said about the first crown.
- Laying the log - in the case of a sufficient width of the foundation, the logs are laid directly on it, but if the first crown completely covers it or the foundation is made by the pillar method, they should be cut into the crown. There is also the option of independent floors, but this is a topic for a separate article. The distance between them varies from their section, but should not be more than 1 meter and less than 40 cm. The logs are installed on the end, for greater rigidity of the future floor;
- Draft floor - for its laying, a board is used after primary processing. Gradually build up the floor, driving nails from it into logs no shorter than 100 mm long. For this operation, a board with a thickness of 25-50 mm is used, it depends on the distance between the lags, the greater the distance, the thicker the board is needed;
- Waterproofing layer - placed with a rough side to the board, fastened around the perimeter with stapler staples;
- Insulation layer - polystyrene foam is usually used as a heater, but for greater environmental friendliness it can be replaced with mineral wool. Insulation can not be particularly fexirovat;
- Vapor barrier layer - necessary to retain moisture formed in the atmosphere of the house, it must be fixed around the perimeter, like waterproofing with a stapler, but not to the floor, but to the bottom of the walls;
- Finished floor - usually consists of sanded boards.
- Subsequent crowns - bars, their components may be of a smaller section than the first. Corner locks can also be different, regardless of what the lock of the first crown was. To preserve heat, each subsequent crown is caulked with flax or special bundles.
Most often, when building a house from a bar with your own hands, three types of castle connections are used:
- butt;
- half a tree;
- Using a root spike.
Nagel - crowns are connected to each other with the help of special pins made of wood, which are called pins. Sometimes metal dowels are used. They securely fix the beam, preventing it from moving along the groove. Usually their length is enough to pierce from 2 to 4 bars; for this, a hole is drilled in them for the length of the dowel.
Window and doorways are another complex element that is important not to miss building a house from a bar with your own hands without experience. In order for the beams not to sag in wide openings, they are supplied with specially prepared wooden boxes, consisting of boards with a thickness of at least 50 mm. You can replace the boxes by installing temporary log supports;
The last crown - it must completely repeat the first and, if necessary, be of a larger section than the intermediate ones. The lock connection is performed in half a tree;
Internal partitions - they must be built last, after the load-bearing walls are built. An exception may be a partition made to reinforce the structure of the house, and also being a carrier, in the case when the house is being built more than 6x6 with your own hands;
Arrangement of the second floor - if you are building a two-story house, then you need to know that the second floor is erected after laying the ceiling on the first, which in turn will serve as a subfloor. Beams holding the ceiling are made of the same section as for the floor. Steam and waterproofing for the interfloor space should not be used, but insulation can become additional sound insulation.
Roof installation
In the construction of timber houses, several types of roofs are used, consider the most popular of them - gable. You can make it yourself, and the space under such a roof can be used as a small room.
- Overlapping - the first thing you need to know when assembling floor beams is that the step between them should not be less than 100 cm. For their manufacture, you can use a solid beam, or use the material as for logs with a section of 150x50 mm. The upper beam must be at least 100x100 mm in cross section;
- Frame for the roof - for it they use a bar and a primary processing board. It is necessary to assemble the rafters, then they are fixed with crossbars. According to them, a crate of boards with a thickness of 20-30 mm is typed and you can proceed to the next stage;
- Waterproofing - the film is placed with a rough side on the surface and fastened with brackets. In some cases, the film can be replaced with roofing felt, but this is less effective and will cost more;
- Thermal insulation - most often, mineral wool is used to insulate the roof;
- Roofing - there are enough varieties of materials for roofing that you can choose according to your pocket, but it is important that the house from a bar looks organically under the roof, and for this you need to either show imagination or look at photos on the Internet.
Finishing work
The final stage of construction is the finishing of the premises, there are enough options for how you can do it yourself, first you need to choose the appropriate interior design. Having chosen a hunting style, you can clad the walls with stone, and animal skins, tiles that mimic the natural structure are also suitable, brickwork will look good in this design. But it’s up to you to decide how a house built with your own hands will look, for this you can see photos of the designs on this site.
Video: do-it-yourself log house
If you have an idea to build a house with your own hands, then the difficulty of choosing the material will be relevant.
The most budget option would be to build a house from a bar. With all the cheapness of this material, the house will turn out to be quite warm, durable and strong.
Having studied the Internet, you will find that in most cases it is advised to choose a bar with a section of 150x150 mm.
But in the event that you do not want to attract additional labor, lumber such as dry timber 150x100 mm is suitable for you, which, after erection and shrinkage, can be insulated with mineral wool. The house will not be inferior in terms of thermal insulation to other buildings from a beam of a larger section.
Stages of construction and construction of the foundation
And so, the material is purchased, we proceed to the construction of the house:
- Initially, it is necessary to clear the space and level the platform for the foundation;
- In accordance with the composition of the soil, determine the type of foundation (specialized reference literature will help with this).
The foundation can be piled, monolithic or tape, which is more often used, because wooden houses are relatively light.
After installing the foundation, the concrete should gain strength (3-4 weeks), then proceed to laying the timber. Even before laying, it is necessary to prepare dowels (dowels) - this is what is used to fasten the timber laid in the crowns together. They are usually made of dense wood (larch).
With a beam size of 150x100 mm, dowels about 12 cm long are suitable. Also, the beam laying technology requires laying interventional insulation. Usually these are rolled materials such as jute, you can also use tow or moss.
According to the advice of experts, fresh red or peat moss should be used, which has lain for no more than 3 weeks.
The first crown of the future home should be made of larch, which is not subject to decay. For greater reliability, it can be treated with bitumen.
The bar of the first crown is fastened together, with a technique known as “half a tree” - at the ends of the bar, a cut is made along and across. It is also necessary to fasten such a knot with staples or nails.
Ways of fastening the beam to the foundation
At the stage of pouring the base, bolts with bent or cone-shaped bases are mounted in its upper layer. The distance between such bolts should not exceed more than 0.5 m. Each element of the first crown should have at least two bolts.
In the beam of the first crown, even before laying, it is necessary to drill holes for the studs located in the foundation.
A pre-cut roofing material is laid on top of the grillage, which acts as a waterproofing material.
After laying the first crown and fixing it on the foundation studs with washers and lock nuts, bring the horizontal level so that the house turns out without distortions. It is also recommended to check the diagonals.
Having laid the first crown, we proceed to the construction of walls.
To do this, you will need a variety of tools:
Note!
- Petrol or electric saw;
- Hand circular saw;
- Drill;
- Level;
- Roulette;
- Axe;
- A hammer;
- Screwdriver;
- Perforator;
- Plane.
Consumables are also needed - nails, self-tapping screws, interventional insulation, fire and bioprotective impregnations.
After preparing all the necessary materials and tools, we proceed to the construction of the walls of your future home. The timber is laid in rows (crowns) until the wall of the required height is obtained.
After laying 4-5 crowns, jambs for door and window openings are installed. At the next stage, the final construction of the walls under the roof takes place.
Roof and floor construction
We strongly do not recommend saving on material for installing a roof. This part of the house can be executed in several versions:
- Shed;
- gable;
- hip;
- Tent;
- Half hip;
- Multi-forceps;
- Vaulted and tambourine roofing.
It all depends on your desire, money and the complexity of the truss system.
Note!
Floors and ceilings in the house is also not an unimportant stage of construction. When arranging them, they are mainly guided by personal preferences, but high-quality waterproofing is mandatory for any manufacturing option. This is especially true for basements and plinths.
Do-it-yourself photo of a house from a bar
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