Novice craftsmen who have just begun to join such an interesting and difficult business as the manufacture of furniture and other wood products are often lost and cannot understand what tool they need in this or that case. Yes, and to deal with the rules of their operation completely independently is very problematic. We suggest reading a brief instruction about one of the most indispensable tools in carpentry.
The main types of nozzles used when working with a wood router and their purpose
There are only two main types of cutters, the division of which goes according to the place of their use:
- Edge.
- Slotted.
Each of these species has a wide range of subspecies used for different purposes. The main difference between the main types is that the first one has a guide bearing that rests against the edge of the part and prevents the nozzle blades from jumping off further than necessary. In the second form, this element is absent, so it can be used on any part of the product.
the main types of cutters for a manual router 
types of cutters for a manual router part 3
There are such edge nozzles:
1. Profile.
They are not used to create elements responsible for the integrity or strength of the structure. Their purpose is the creation of purely decorative elements, the decoration of the edges of the product.
2. Tapered.
Most often used to smooth out sharp edges. They cut a rectangular edge at an angle of 45 degrees.
3. Kalevochnye.
As well as the previous version, they are used to smooth corners. Cut off the edge and turn it into a profile in a quarter of a circle. The radius of the nozzle can vary from 3 mm to 1.6 cm.
4. Disk.
It is used when it is necessary to cut a straight recessed groove with the same latitude along the entire length.
5. Seam.
Necessary in cases of creating a rectangular edge along the edge of the product.
6. Fillet.
They carry a strictly decorative purpose, create rounded recesses along the edge.
Types of cutters for a manual router part 2 work with a wood router manual router with a set of cutters
The following cutters are classified as groove cutters:
1. Rectangular.
In most videos about the work, the use of these nozzles is shown manually. With the help of them, even rectangular channels are created in the product. Used to create connecting grooves.
2. Fillet.
Cut out even channels with a rounded bottom. By and large, they are used only for decorative purposes.
3. Triangular (V-shaped).
While working with a wood router with such a nozzle, even channels are cut out in shape resembling a triangle, the top of which is directed deep into the product. Best suited for cutting grooves on thin workpieces.
4. "Dovetail"
They cut channels, the bottom of which is wider than their upper part. With their help, very strong groove joints are made.
Instructional video on how to work with a manual router, which will help you avoid mistakes
After watching a video about working with a manual router, it will be easy to figure out how the tool is set up correctly, how to adjust the planting depth and the location of its cutter. In addition, you will learn the safety rules that must be observed during work. And now let's look at other important nuances.
Tool movement direction
While working with a router, many craftsmen do not advise using this method, since there is a high risk of the tool coming off the workpiece. But it is the best option, which will help to avoid splitting off the fibers, as well as pressing the edge of the product, which does not need to be processed. The nozzle rotates clockwise, which means that the tool must go counterclockwise. Moving in the direction of movement of the blades, there is a great risk of the above problems.
Nozzle rotation speed
This tool works at a fairly high speed. But depending on what kind of wood is being processed and on what size nozzle is used, the rotation speed will be selected. The softer the wood species, the more speed is selected. The larger the nozzle size, the slower the speed will be. The exact figures are usually given in the instructions.
Working with this tool is not so difficult, and in return you will get the widest possibilities. They can successfully replace even special professional equipment that is used in large factories.
Reading 13 min. Published on 05.12.2018
A wood router is a truly versatile machine. In capable hands, he is able to replace most of the machine park with a well-equipped carpentry workshop. Considering that the price of a manual router is quite affordable for every home craftsman, and interchangeable cutters are sold both in sets and individually, the need to have such a versatile tool in your arsenal is obvious.
Also available are specific working methods that are peculiar only to a manual router and impossible on "large" machines. The question is interesting and capacious, so it should be considered in detail.
What is a cutter and what is it for?
A hand mill is a power tool, which is an electric motor with a collet for mounting a cutting tool on a shaft.
A platform or base, a kind of desktop, is structurally combined with it, which is able to move along the guides and be fixed in a given position.
The platform is used to set the depth of cut. On the sides there are two handles for which the machine is held in the desired position or fed to the workpiece.
The milling cutter is designed for cutting parts from different materials:
- Solid wood;
- chipboard, including - laminated chipboard;
- Aluminum, duralumin;
- Soft plastic.
With the help of a manual milling cutter, various types of material processing can be performed. These include the following operations:
- Milling recesses of various shapes - grooves, nests, grooves and other elements;
- Edge profiling - creating shaped (shaped) surfaces, milling quarters;
- Milling of special structural elements - recesses for hinges, locks, handles, spikes and nests for them;
- Trimming curved and complex edges of furniture parts or special elements.
To ensure the accuracy and cleanliness of the cut, the design of the router has a lot of adjustment and adjustment elements. They produce the following
- Changing the speed of rotation of the shaft;
- Setting the immersion depth of the cutting body;
- Depth preset for quick change of cutting mode.
Important! For serial production of large volumes of products, a manual milling cutter is not suitable. It is most rational to use it only for domestic purposes or in small workshops engaged in small-scale production of products to order.
The main types of nozzles
Main types For milling work, end mills with a shank diameter of 6.8 or 12 mm are used.
They are sold individually or in sets that include the most popular types of cutters.
There are sets with 7 mm shanks, but it is difficult to find a collet for them. Depending on the purpose and shape of the cut, there are edge and groove cutters. Edges include:
- Profile;
- conical;
- Molding (moulding, quarter-roller);
- Disk;
- Fillet.
A common feature of edge cutters is the presence of a bearing that plays the role of a stop. Groove cutters include:
- Rectangular (straight);
- Fillet;
- "Dovetail";
- V-shaped.
Groove cutters do not have thrust bearings and allow you to cut both on the edges and on the face. There are straight cutters with a bearing at the top, just above the cutting edges. Usually its diameter corresponds to the size of the cutting part, which allows cutting curved shapes according to the template. Such cutters are called overrunning. They are not included in the standard kits, if necessary, they must be purchased separately. Almost all cutters are available in several sizes. To make a recess of the desired size, it is necessary to select a cutter of the appropriate diameter or profile.
Training
To install the cutter in the chuck, the cutter is laid on its side. Some types allow you to disconnect the engine with a cartridge from the platform without changing its settings. Others do not provide such an opportunity, so most often you have to lower the base as far down as possible. The cartridge is unscrewed with a wrench, which is included in the delivery.
The cartridge is fixed in immobility with the help of a special button located above the exit point of the shaft from the housing. It is not present on all types of routers, sometimes you have to fix the shaft with a wrench, and unscrew the cartridge with another.
It is not necessary to completely remove the cap nut, but sometimes it is necessary to do this if the cutter is clamped too tightly in the collet. By gently tapping on the side surfaces and turning the shaft, the collet is loosened and the jammed cutter is removed.
The nut is screwed on, a new cutter is inserted into the collet by about 20 mm. Some cutters on shanks have special marks indicating the minimum and maximum insertion depths, but most of them are installed by eye. If the insertion depth is too small, the cutter may be deformed and the workpiece damaged if the feed is too fast. This is dangerous, as the maximum speed of the router shaft is 30,000 rpm or more. A milling cutter that has flown out of the collet on the move has great destructive power; if it hits a person, the consequences are very undesirable.
Attention! It is forbidden to screw in the union nut without a cutter installed, as this will break the collet.
Setting the milling depth is done as follows:
- The milling cutter with the base lowered is installed on a flat platform;
- The cutter is lowered to the stop and fixed;
- The depth indicator slider is set to zero;
- The depth stop rises to the desired value and is locked with a screw;
- The cutter is unlocked and lowered to the stop of the depth gauge in the adjusting screw, after which it is fixed again.
It is recommended to check the set depth on a test piece so that adjustments can be made if necessary. Do not immediately make too much depth, this contributes to overheating of the router and creates an excessive load on the electric motor. The recommended depth in one pass is 4-6 mm.
To work correctly with a power tool, you must first familiarize yourself with the features of its device, the rules of operation and safety. How to work with a manual router, are there any features of using this tool? To perform woodworking, you can use various cutters:
To work with a manual milling cutter, you must first familiarize yourself with the intricacies of handling it.
- profile cutters that allow you to give the details a curly profile;
- cone cutters are used to obtain beveled edges at 45 degrees;
- moulder cutters for rounded shapes and radii of 3-16 mm;
- disc cutters designed for cutting grooves with various sizes and depths;
- folded - for quarters;
- fillets are used to obtain fillets on the edges;
- grooved rectangular;
- V-shaped for making grooves with walls at an angle of 45 degrees;
- dovetail, which is most often used in the manufacture of various pieces of furniture, spiked hidden joints.
When planning work, it is important to choose the right type of cutter so that everything can be done as efficiently and quickly as possible. This is not so difficult to do, today they sell special kits that include everything you need to process wooden parts.
How to set depth?
When working on wood, you must first set the depth for processing the part. The following instruction will help:
- First you need to install the milling cutter on the part, after which the turret stop with its low end is placed near the end face of the limiter.
- The stopper screw is released so that it can be moved in the required direction.
- The immersion mechanism is unlocked, after which the engine is lowered to the surface of the part, again fixed in the required position.
- The depth stop is lowered to the lowest level, after which it is inserted so that the part can be machined at the required level. If such work is performed using a manual mechanism, then the installation will be rough, and if using a special mechanism, then accurate.
- The stopper screw is firmly clamped, the immersion mechanism and the cutter rises. Only after that, woodwork can begin.
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How to choose the speed?
The diameter of the plant affects the possible speed of its use.
When working with a manual router, you must select the correct speed mode. Usually this speed is about 10,000 rpm, with a higher speed setting, the cut surface is clean and tidy. Too high speed when working with wooden parts is unnecessary, as the surface may be charred. High centrifugal speeds can cause the part to break. That is why when planning work with a manual router, so much attention is paid to the choice of mode.
In addition to the speed mode, it is necessary to immediately determine what the linear speed of the edge movement relative to the workpiece will be.
The larger the diameter of the cutter used, the lower the linear speed of movement should be.
If a milling cutter with a diameter of 10 mm is used for work, then the speed is approximately 20,000 revolutions per minute. For a cutter with a diameter of 40 mm, the speed is already only 10,000/12,000 rpm. But you can’t choose the speed “by eye”, for this there are special instructions and recommendations from the manufacturer.
It is also necessary to take into account such an indicator as the hardness of the workpiece. The stronger the part, the lower the number of revolutions for the cutter should be. When working at low speeds, it is necessary to regularly turn on the device to idle at maximum speed. This is done so that the engine can cool down and not overheat during operation.
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How to choose the direction of rotation when processing wood?
Direction of rotation when working with a milling cutter.
When using cutters, it is necessary to choose the correct direction of movement, which can be passing or oncoming. The difference is as follows: during the associated movement, the cutter moves in one direction, and its rotation is performed in the opposite direction. In this case, the edge cuts into the wooden surface of the board, exits at the bottom of the groove. Such work is performed extremely rarely, only if strictly necessary, since the cut surface is not very even, chips appear.
In counter motion, which is much more common, the cutter moves in the same direction as the rotation. Such a movement is considered correct, safe, with it the cutter will not be pulled out, as with a passing one. Therefore, when choosing a movement, preference should be given to the oncoming one, the passing one is used when there are certain requirements for this.
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General rules of work
How to work as a milling cutter? There are a number of requirements that must be followed. But first you need to decide what the device is. It is necessary to choose the right type of cutter for a particular type of work. The work itself is carried out in compliance with the following general rules:
When working with a router, you need to wear glasses and hold the tool at outstretched arms.
- First, you need to install the part on a supporting surface to ensure immobility and fastening. Otherwise, the part will move, the quality of work will be low, and the process itself will turn out to be extremely traumatic.
- A special revolving stop, with which the depth of processing is set, must be placed opposite the limiting end. The limiter screw must then be released so that it can work in the given direction. Next, you should unlock the lowering of the router so that you can start working.
- The tool must be advanced until the selected cutter touches the part. The lowering mechanism, after the engine has touched the part, must be blocked.
- The limiter also goes down to the stop, it allows you to adjust the depth of processing. The slider for the limiter is set to "0" of the dive scale.
- The stopper screw, after the required value has been reached, must be firmly fixed. As a result, it will be possible to achieve exactly the depth of processing that is necessary to perform a particular type of work.
- If there is a need to perform work with processing not at the same depth, but at a different level, then the work is performed not in one, but in several stages. To do this, the limiter moves to the required value.
When working with a router, it must be remembered that the speed is quite high, reaching 10 thousand revolutions per minute. It provides high quality of work, a smooth surface of any cut. But a tool that is too fast is not always needed, since the surface of the workpiece can be charred. It is also taken into account that 2 types of movement are used during work: passing and oncoming. During the associated rotation of the milling cutter, a cut is made into the surface of the part, the cutter comes out at the bottom of the groove. In counter rotation, the cutter moves in the same direction as the device. Co-rotation is rarely used, since with such a movement a large number of chips appear.
Those who love carpentry, that is, woodwork, must definitely know how to handle a hand router. With the help of such a device, you can create real masterpieces without any effort at all. However, this will require skills in work and knowledge of what this tool consists of, how to assemble and disassemble it. With the help of a manual wood router, you can create a beautiful door, decorative furniture or other original items. You can even open your own business, making a variety of wood products.
Types of milling work
The milling cutter is a unique device that performs a large number of rotations per second, while creating holes of the required diameter and shape. Work in progress divided into several categories. The holes that are created by the router are almost always part of a detachable or one-piece design that decorates the product.
It is necessary to consider in more detail the work carried out with the help of a milling cutter.
- Profiling of such products as cornices, platbands, plinths, glazing beads, etc., is carried out with an edge. Such works are suitable for furniture manufacturers. This is a wonderful solution for decorating wood products.
- Decorating the edges of complex products with a router helps to create an exclusive product. A professional can even create a masterpiece. For beginners, the video will help in this case. Such a process is necessarily carried out using templates. They contribute to the creation of identical patterns over large areas.
- With the help of a wood router, simple everyday problems are solved. For example, it is necessary to make recesses for locks or under awnings. For this, a special milling cutter is used, however, for homework, you can also use a hand tool.
All woodwork is done with special cutters. They are chosen, focusing on the type of work that will need to be carried out, and the type of wood that is milled. On the Internet you can find a large number of videos that explain in detail and clearly show what the cutter looks like and how to choose the right one.
The milling cutter is a component of the milling cutter and is shank and working element with cutting edge. They are distinguished by:
- the shape of the cutting edge;
- the type of material from which they are made;
- size;
- designs.
Thus, for working on soft wood, light materials for the cutter are needed. And for the manufacture of an object from solid wood, preference is given to "hard" cutters.
Cutters are:
- conical;
- V-shaped;
- disk;
- cutters "swallow's nest";
- profile;
- rectangular groove;
- molding;
- folded;
- fillet.
In addition, cutters are divided into those that direct the movement, have bearings and those that do not. With the help of a manual milling cutter without bearings in the cutters, work is carried out anywhere in the workpiece.
Installing the cutter
Once the required template has been found, further woodwork should be carried out with a hand router. To do this, select set the correct cut. This is done in the following sequence:
How to do the job with a manual router
A large number of electrical appliances for construction and repair carry out their work by rotating the shaft. A hand mill makes a large number of revolutions per second. It is generally accepted that woodworking will be done cleaner by a milling cutter if there are as many revolutions as possible. In fact, this is an erroneous opinion. The object may char and break if the speed control is not set correctly and when working with a large diameter cutter.
That is why for each type of work and material it is necessary to select and set a certain number of revolutions per second. The work will be much cleaner if the ratio of the speed of the cutter to the wood being cut is correctly selected.
Work with a manual milling cutter is carried out by installing it on a special table or simply holding it in your hands. Small items are usually milling on a stationary table. This contributes to the performance of work without any defects. On such a table, the router is installed with the spindle up.
In order for milling on the table to be performed without errors, it is necessary:
- set the rulers on the surface of the table, under the shape that will need to be cut;
- narrow rulers with an oval end are necessary for working with parts of a variable profile and are attached to the surface of the table perpendicular to the workpiece.
It should be remembered that when working with a manual router, it must be moved in the opposite direction relative to the movement of the cutter. Otherwise, the tool often breaks out of the hands and causes injury.
Safety Compliance
Manual wood router required requires safety precautions so as not to cause harm to health:
Conclusion
It is not easy to learn how to make wood products with a hand router. Best to explore video tutorials with necessary instructions. Do not forget that this is a rather dangerous tool that can cause serious injury. That is why it is important to observe safety precautions, to be attentive and careful.
Processing lumber, inserting loops, making technological holes and recesses, woodcarving - all this can be done by such a device as a milling cutter. Moreover, this can be done not only by professional equipment, but also by relatively inexpensive manual specimens. But working with a manual wood router requires knowledge of some techniques and rules. All this is in the article.
What is a cutter and what is it for?
A milling cutter is a device for processing wood or metal. They process flat and shaped surfaces, and also forms technological recesses - a groove, a comb, recesses for installing hinges, etc. According to the installation method, there are stationary machines (there are different types for performing different operations), and there are manual milling machines. Manual electric milling cutters are a universal tool that allows you to carry out any operation. To change the operation, you just need to change the nozzle - the cutter and / or its location on the part.
Machine tools are mainly used in mass production. In them, the cutter is installed motionless, and the workpiece moves along a certain trajectory. When working with a manual milling cutter, the situation is the opposite - the workpiece is fixed motionlessly, the milling cutter is moved. When processing large volumes of identical parts, it is more convenient to fix a hand router on a horizontal surface, making something similar to a milling machine.
Homemade milling machine - a horizontal plane with a hole in the middle, to which a manual router is attached from below
There are many different types of milling machines, but for the home DIYer or for semi-professional use, universal ones are more suitable. They are equipped with various cutters and special devices, which allows you to perform any operation. It just takes more time and skill to complete them than on a specialized machine.
What can be done with a manual milling cutter:
Similar operations are used in carpentry, in the manufacture and assembly of furniture. Even embed a lock or hinges on the door - this can also be done by a manual milling cutter. Moreover, it will do it much faster and more elegantly than similar operations, but performed with a hand tool.
Preparation for work and care
To understand the principles of working with a manual router, it is desirable to have at least a general idea of its structure and the purpose of the parts.
The structure and purpose of the main nodes
The manual electric milling cutter consists of a housing in which the motor is hidden. A holder protrudes from the body, where the collets are inserted. Collets are small adapters that allow the use of cutters with different shanks. A cutter is already inserted into the collet and tightened with a clamping bolt (on some models it is fixed with a button).
Another important detail of a hand router is the platform, which is connected to the body with two rods. The platform is usually made of metal. There is a sliding plate on the underside of the platform. It is made of a smooth material that ensures the tool runs smoothly as it moves through the part.
Setting the parameters of the milling cutter is done using:
- Handles and jackals for setting the depth of milling. The tuning step is 1/10 mm.
- Adjustment of the number of revolutions. Changes the rotation speed of the cutter. For starters, it’s worth trying to work at low or medium speeds - it’s easier to drive the tool at first.
Also, be sure to have an on / off button on the case, there may also be a lock button. Here, in a nutshell, are all the nodes. In addition, there is also a parallel stop that is quite convenient to use. It can be simple or adjustable - you can move the cutting part slightly to the right or left.
Care
From the factory, the equipment is lubricated, so in principle, no additional operations are required. But it is necessary to keep the equipment clean - it is necessary to clean the dust more often, change the lubricant if necessary. Lubrication is needed for moving parts - guides. You can use liquid aerosol lubricants (preferably), but you can also use ordinary grease-type "Litol". But, when using thick lubricants, they will have to be removed periodically, as chips and dust stick, it becomes difficult to work. When using light aerosol formulations, there is practically no sticking.
In order for the sole to slide easily, you can lubricate it with silicone grease. This is especially useful when working with templates. Then the tool literally glides, goes smoothly and without jerks.
Rotational speed
Work with a manual milling cutter on wood, composite, plywood, etc. starts with setting the basic parameters. First you need to set the rotation speed. It is selected depending on the selected cutter and the rigidity of the material and the characteristics of the router, so exact recommendations should be sought in the instruction manual.
Fixing the cutter
Next, a cutter is installed. Most branded cutters have marks that you can navigate. If they are not available, then the minimum must be clamped at least 3/4 of the length of the shank (cylindrical part). Insert the cutter to the required depth (if necessary, having previously installed a collet - an adapter chuck for different cutter diameters), fix the shaft, tighten it with an open-end wrench until it stops (but do not overtighten).
If the model is simple, two keys are needed. They do not provide a mechanism for blocking the shaft, the second key will need to hold it. Middle-class devices have a lock button. Clamping it, tighten the cutter with an open-end wrench. In expensive models, in addition to blocking, there is a ratchet by which you can navigate.
Setting the milling depth
Each model of a manual router has a certain overhang - this is the maximum depth to which this unit is able to process the material. The maximum depth of milling is not always required, then its adjustment is required. Even if it is necessary to mill to a great depth, so as not to overload the cutter and the unit too much, it can be divided into several levels. There is a revolver for this. This is a small disk under the bar with a number of stops of different heights - legs. The number of legs is from three to seven, and more does not mean better. It is much more convenient if it is possible to adjust the height of each leg. This shows the class of the equipment. To fix the turret in the desired position, there is a latch, usually made in the form of a flag.
Setting the milling depth on a manual router takes place in several stages:
- The tool is placed on a flat surface, the clamps are released, the hand is pressed so that the cutter rests on the surface.
- The turret stop is released by unscrewing its lock.
- Depending on what depth of milling is needed, choose the leg of the turret stop. The disc with legs is rotated to the desired position.
- The screw is not fixed, but the bar is held with a finger, the movable pointer is moved so that it coincides with zero (in the photo above).
- The bar is raised to the milling depth mark, after which the turret lock is lowered (pictured below).
Now, when installed on the workpiece and pressing on the upper part, the cutter will enter the part at the set distance.
On good routers there is a wheel for fine adjustment of the depth of milling. It allows you to adjust the depth without knocking down the settings (you do not need to repeat the entire operation), albeit within small limits (in the photo above this is a green wheel).
Milling cutters for manual router
Milling cutters are cutting tools that process and shape the surface. They consist of a cylindrical part, which is clamped by collets in the unit holder, and a cutting part. The cylindrical part can be of different diameters. Choose one that has a collet for which your machine has. The shape and location of the blades of the cutting part determines the look that the wood receives after processing. Some cutters (for edges) have a thrust roller. It sets the distance from the cutting surface to the workpiece.
Working with a manual wood router involves the presence of a certain number of milling cutters. This is a small part of what exists
Make cutters from different metals and alloys. For processing soft wood - pine, spruce, etc. - use conventional nozzles (HSS), for hard rocks - oak, beech and others - from hard alloys (HM).
Each cutter has a certain resource and maximum speed, which ensures normal operation with minimal runout. Do not exceed the recommended speed - this can cause damage to the router. It also makes no sense to sharpen the cutter if it is dull. They do this on special equipment (worth about $ 1000), where you can set the required sharpening angle. Nothing good can be done manually. So blunt ones are easier (and cheaper) to replace, since they cost relatively little.
Popular types
There are a number of types of router bits that are most commonly used.
There are simple milling cutters, formed from a single piece of metal, there are typesetting. Type-setting have a shank - a base, a certain set of different cutting planes, a set of washers of different thicknesses. From these details, you can independently form the required relief.
Type-setting cutter - a set of several cutting surfaces and washers from which you can make a cutter of the required shape
These are the most popular types of cutters, but in fact there are a lot of them. In addition to different diameters of shanks, there are different diameters of cutting surfaces, their height, the location of knives relative to each other, etc. In general, do-it-yourself milling usually requires about five of the most common milling cutters. They are usually present all the time, and the rest are purchased for specific types of work.
Principles of work with a manual milling cutter
An electric milling cutter is a rather dangerous thing - sharp cutting parts rotating at high speed can cause serious injuries, and chips flying from under the tool too. And although most models have a protective shield that reflects the main flow of chips, goggles will not interfere. So the work of a manual wood router requires attention and concentration.
One of the models - with a connected vacuum cleaner to remove chips
General requirements
Work with a manual wood router will be easier and more enjoyable, the products will turn out to be of normal quality if certain conditions are met:
Not such complex requirements, but their implementation is the key to good work and safety. Well, the main requirement is that the milling cutter must be driven smoothly, without jerks, shocks. If a strong beating is felt, change the speed. Most often, it needs to be reduced, but in general it is worth focusing on the manufacturer's recommendations (available on the package).
Edge processing - working with a template
Processing the edge of an ordinary board is easier and faster to carry out on a thicknesser, but if it is not there, a manual milling cutter will also cope, but it will only take more time. There are two ways: without a template and with a template. If this is the first experience with a router, it is better to use a template. When processing the edges of boards, straight edge cutters are needed, and, most likely, two will be needed - with a bearing at the beginning and at the end of the cutting part (pictured).
For edge processing - make a flat surface
As a template, you can use an already processed board or, for example, a building rule. The length of the template should be slightly longer than the length of the workpiece - by 5-6 cutter radii on each side. This will make it possible to avoid the “dive” of the cutter into the material at the beginning and at the end. One important point: the horizontal plane (perpendicular to the workpiece) must be flat. In any case, its curvature should not be greater than the gap between the bearing and the cutting part, otherwise the cutter will touch the template, and this is very bad - it becomes imperfect and the applied irregularities will appear on other copies.
If the width of the part is not more than the length of the cutting edge
The cutting part of the cutters has different lengths, but the larger the cutting part, the more difficult it is to work - more effort has to be applied to hold the unit. Therefore, it is easier to start with a medium cutter. The order of processing the edge with a router (with a template) is as follows:
- Set the template so that it sets the required flat surface - stepping back the desired distance from the edge.
- The blank with the template is securely attached to the table or any other horizontal surface.
- Install a cutter with a roller in the middle part. It is set so that the roller rolls along the template, and the cutting part along the part. To do this, the cutter is installed on a fixed workpiece with a template, a milling cutter disconnected from the network is placed, the position of the nozzle is corrected, and it is clamped.
- Set the cutter in the working position - lower the body, clamp it.
- Turn on a manual milling cutter, guide it according to the template. The speed of movement is determined by the depth of processing. You will feel everything yourself.
- And how to conduct a milling cutter? Pull or push? Depends on which side you're on. If the workpiece is on the left, push; if on the right, pull. You can also navigate by the overhang of the chips - it should fly forward.
On this, in fact, everything. After you have completed the passage, evaluate the result, remove the clamps.
This, by the way, is another way to remove a quarter along the edge of the workpiece or in some part of it. To remove a quarter, set the cutting part so that the processing is of a given depth.
By changing the cutter to a curly (fillet) and shifting the template or using the stop that comes with the kit, you can apply a longitudinal pattern to the workpiece (pictured below).
In general, this milling technique is quite convenient. For the first steps in woodworking, this is the best way to “fill your hand”, then it will be possible to level the edges even without guides.
The width is greater than the length of the cutting part
What to do if the thickness of the workpiece is not more than the length of the cutting part of the cutter? In this case, the work with a manual wood router continues:
Now the edge is completely processed on one side. If necessary, repeat with the other side. In general, in order to master the work of a manual wood router, you will need several “rough” blanks. Choose from those that you don’t mind throwing away - at first there will be a lot of jambs, then gradually learn.
Obtaining curly and curved edges
If you need not even, but rounded or any other shape of the edge, you need to look at the state of the existing edge. If the workpiece is more or less even, take the necessary edge cutter, install it and process the surface, as described above. If the surface is too curved, it is first brought to a normal state, and then milled.
This is necessary because the bearing roller rolls over the surface and if there are flaws, they will be copied. Therefore, act consistently - first level, then - give curvature.
If a curved surface is boring at all, a template is cut out. The drawing is applied to plywood with a thickness of 8-12 mm, first it can be cut with an electric jigsaw, so the edge is brought to an ideal state with a milling cutter.
In this case, you will also have to work with a router, but so far without a template. When the surface is perfect, the template is fixed to the workpiece and then the work already described above with a manual wood router. Just one point: if you need to shoot in some places a large amount of material, it is better to do it with a jigsaw, for example. Otherwise, the cutter will quickly become dull.
Video tutorials on working with a manual router
When installing doors, it is necessary to cut the hinges, how to do this with a router - in the next video (there is also a guide on how to make a groove, for example, for installing an extension).
How to make a homemade milling machine from laminate samples (you can use plywood) and how to make a spike connection for drawers (a table, for example) - in the next video
The work of a manual wood router is shown well in the following video, but it is in English. Even if you do not know English, take the time to look. Many operations will become clearer.
