Project of a small bathhouse in the country. Bathhouse in the country - design, choice of design and construction with your own hands. Photos and videos of the best options for construction. This option is very easy to install.

Sooner or later, every self-respecting lover of country holidays has a bathhouse in their dacha. This is not even a whim, but an important element of relaxation, a severe necessity for a summer resident. At the same time, it is not necessary to set up a standard steam room of five square meters in order to steam and wash; it is enough to build a bathhouse in a mini-format at the dacha, usable area 6-12 m2.

Bathhouse at the dacha: projects

A small-sized washing station at the dacha has always been a favorite object of creativity. Each private owner was looking for his own version of building a small bathhouse at the dacha with his own hands, projects for foundations and finishing of premises. There are many projects, but almost all of them are tied to the specific location of the site and the main building.

Among the universal options, the following schemes are most often used:

• The most available version washing compartment— a compact bathhouse for a summer residence in the form of an extension to the main building;
• The most common frame mini bath with insulation and wall covering with clapboard;
• Full-fledged timber construction with a dedicated separate room washing department;
• The most affordable mini-sauna for a summer residence to build with your own hands from edged boards is forty.

The last option is good because it can be built on almost any plot of a summer cottage in five to seven days. This design will last three to four years without any problems, until the time comes to build a real bathhouse.

Small sauna for a summer house made from roofing boards

The main advantage of such a bath is its low cost and large interior space. Most of the box is allocated to the utility block, where firewood and garden equipment are stored; the steam room and dressing room occupy approximately 2/3 of the room.

The use of plank panels significantly weakens the walls, so according to the project, the bathhouse box at the dacha is supposed to be built on a strip or slab foundation. Such a temporary shed can be built on a purchased plot of land with old dacha. While they're walking renovation work, in the bathhouse you can steam and store the necessary material and tools.

The walls inside the bathhouse are lined with thermal insulation, possibly mineral wool and aluminum foil. To prevent water from flowing inside, you can build a canopy or cover the boards with thick plastic film, at least 0.2 mm thick, on pre-stuffed counter-lattice slats.

The simplest version of a mini bath for a summer residence

Sometimes owners of a summer cottage prefer to build a steam room directly next to the wall of the house. Essentially, this is a universal cabin made of boards and timber, in which you can steam or shower at the same time.

It is clear that it is possible to build a single-seat sauna box only if a brick stove is built in the dacha room, in close proximity to the wall.

To heat up a mini sauna at your dacha, you can use a flame pipe made of thick stainless or alloy steel. The part facing the stove is laid with a sauna stone to a depth of at least 40 cm. A water tank with a dropper is installed above the heater; a stream of steam warms up the cabin in 10 minutes.

What is interesting about this bathhouse project for a summer cottage:

• It can be built in a day, and the body of the bathhouse is best made from pine boards - forty;
• The cabin does not require additional foundation or insulation. You only need to build a shower tray with a wooden drain;
• The time to prepare the bath is no more than 10 minutes, during which time the walls and water in the shower tank have time to heat up.

Instead of a fire oven, you can build a steam generator or use an industrial model for apartment saunas. A tank with water for showering is installed in the upper part of the bathhouse cabin. A built-in electric heater is used for heating. It is most convenient to build a room with an exit from the bathhouse to the covered veranda of the dacha, then you can steam in any weather.

Classic mini bath project

For a dacha with a plot of at least 10-12 acres, standard frame and timber mini-baths designed for two to three people are most often chosen.

One of the options for planning a sauna room for a summer residence is shown in the diagram below.

For your information! A special feature of the layout of such a mini bath is the minimum number of internal partitions.

In small boxes of 2.5x2.5 m, building a rest room is useless and pointless, what kind of rest can there be?

You need to leave a small dressing room of 2 x 0.7 m. This is enough to fold things, sit, here you can store a supply of firewood, from which it is convenient to heat the stove.

Both types of bathhouses are built on a columnar or bored foundation. Build frame bath doing it yourself for the dacha is much easier and faster, although somewhat more expensive due to the large amount of insulation.

Building a bathhouse in a dacha from timber will cost 20% less, but you will need to build a pile foundation and seriously tinker with the shrinkage of the walls. At least once a season, the intervention seams will need to be stamped with tow. You can build a box with a ventilated facade, but this type of bathhouse cladding is rarely used for a summer residence.

Location Features

In addition to a successful box design, you will need to choose the right place in the country where you can build a bathhouse without occupying the most valuable areas of the territory. On the other hand, the steam room should be located at a sanitary distance from the dacha house in order to ensure a fire safety distance and a minimum of smoke in the area in front of the house.

A typical design for a simple mini-bath involves building a room in the space between the remote toilet and the dacha building.

The second option is the most common. In this case, the structure is placed as far away from the house as possible, preferably closer to shrubs or trees that protect the box from the wind.

A bathhouse can be built in the so-called sanitary zone of the dacha, and the site for the foundation, even without taking into account the height of the piles, must be located above the drainage pit or septic tank.

How to build a sauna at your dacha with your own hands

First of all, you need to decide on the material and method of constructing the walls. The design of the foundation depends on this, which in any case will need to be built a couple of weeks before the walls of the bathhouse are erected. If the structure is framed, then MZLF is placed under the bath box, for timber version you will need to make a pile foundation.

Material selection

Most summer residents believe that a bathhouse can be built from the remains of building materials left over from the construction of a house. In fact, this is not entirely true:

• The walls and frame must be built from high-quality material, best of all timber and planks;
• For filing the subfloor and ceiling of the bathhouse, you can use trimmings, chain link, slab, and any leftover lumber that has undergone sanitary and fire protection treatment;
• It is best to build a foundation for a bathhouse from asbestos-cement pipes, or cast bored supports; for these purposes, pieces of old reinforcement, pieces of roofing felt and the remains of cement of any brand will do;
• The tray and stove screen can be built from any red brick. It is better to buy the sauna stove itself ready-made or cook it from a 50-liter household propane cylinder.

Roof covering, wiring, pipes for the chimney and sewerage, wall insulation and ventilation system must be purchased new. Any attempt to build a bathhouse, for example, using old wall insulation, usually results in the steam room being cold and drafty from all sides.

Foundation

The easiest and cheapest way to build a boring columnar foundation. If you plan to build a bathhouse on rocky ground, then you can get by with pillars made of ordinary red brick or cinder block; for a 3x4 box you will need to build at least 12 pieces.

The dimensions of the brick supports are 30x30 cm, the height of the pillars is selected so that there remains between the subfloor of the bathhouse and the ground. air gap at least 30-40 cm. It is clear that it is possible to build on poles only if the topography of the dacha site has a slope of no more than 7 degrees. Otherwise, you will need to plan the installation point for the supports, dig the pads to a depth of 30 cm and fill them with a mixture of sand and fine gravel screenings.

To build a pile base, you will need 10-11 piles, screw models from metal pipes for small-sized buildings in the countryside they are rarely used because of the high cost. Most often, following the marking of the foundation, ten holes are drilled with a garden drill to the freezing depth, asbestos-cement pipes are clogged and filled with concrete. Half an hour after pouring, wire or pins are placed in each pile under tying the pile field with timber.

Construction of walls

Mini saunas made of timber have the greatest strength of all wooden structures. It is important to be able to correctly lay the first crown of timber laid on the waterproofing of the foundation.

The timber must be leveled horizontally and re-treated with protective impregnation. First, the box is assembled and the floor beams are laid, only then the windows and doorways are cut out with a chainsaw.

The box of a frame bathhouse for a summer residence is easier to build. In the corners of the strappings are installed vertical racks from timber 100x100 mm, leveled and stitched with cross members and temporary struts, everything that can be found in the country. Next, the ceiling slabs are laid, and the lintels and frames of future windows are filled. The rough walls of the bathhouse are sewn on with boards, slabs or any available lumber available at the dacha.

Then thermal insulation is laid, first foiled polyethylene foam, then mineral wool and film insulation. External walls are traditionally covered with clapboard or plastic panels.

Roof

Initially, you will need to insulate the ceiling. To do this, on the bottom edge of each ceiling beam, laid earlier, a pair of longitudinal cranial bars are sewn on. Next, along the timber guides, a rough ceiling is assembled from scraps of slabs and boards available at the dacha. It is covered with a vapor barrier and laid with mineral fiber slabs, covered with polyethylene.

The next step is to lay rafter beams on the walls of the bathhouse. The roof can be built in a single-pitch version, since the strength of the frame is large enough to withstand any amount of snow.

For gable roofs, all parts - the ridge, pairs of rafters and gable sheathing - are assembled on the ground, successively raised to the ceiling and knocked down with nails and steel corners. The easiest way to build a roof is from metal tiles, as they are the cheapest, most durable and easiest to install.

Finishing work

The interior of the bathhouse is always lined with clapboard. The dressing room is sheathed with pine clapboard or tongue-and-groove boards, the ceiling and steam room are covered with linden or aspen slats.

Adjacent to the stove wooden structures it is necessary to treat it several times with a fire retardant solution and dry thoroughly. The shower compartment is best lined with plastic. Pine or aspen is laid on the floor. All finishing inside the summer cottage bathhouse is treated with a special oil that prevents the absorption of condensation and water vapor.

Communications and heating

Usually at the dacha for small bathhouse no plumbing is installed. Instead of centralized water supply in the dressing room, next to the firebox, a water tank is installed. This avoids problems with pipes freezing in the bathhouse.

The drainage system is equipped depending on the design of the floors. The bathhouse can be equipped with a drain floor system, as in the photo, or a separate shower tray.

Removal dirty water produced by gravity through a bellows elbow into the septic tank.

To heat the bathhouse and steam room, metal stoves with a brick screen are used. Most often, the loading window is located in the waiting room or outside. This allows you to avoid carbon monoxide poisoning that penetrates through the firebox into the bathhouse when the draft drops. The stove must be placed on a foundation made of stone or brick. Heating the bath once is enough for 40-50 minutes. steam room operation.

Conclusion

The presence of a bathhouse at the dacha remains the same attribute of a suburban area as a summer kitchen or a gazebo for relaxation. The design of the steam room and stove is constantly being repaired and improved; according to the reviews of the craftsmen, the process of alteration and completion never ends.

Washing in a country bathhouse is a pleasure available to everyone. Its construction does not require large financial investments. IN minimal layout such a structure is erected in a few days.

In this article we will look at the topic of how to build the simplest bathhouse in your country house quickly and inexpensively.

Let's start by studying ready-made options, and discuss the designs of walls, floors, stoves and sewers that are popular among craftsmen.

Design Features

The main conditions for the comfort of any bath are:

• Walls, floor and ceiling well protected from heat loss.
• Reliable insulation of structures from water and steam.
• Compact, quick heating oven.
• Effective sewerage and ventilation.

Examples of country baths

In photo No. 1 we see a simple bathhouse, reminiscent of Diogenes’ barrel. You can only take a steam bath in it. You won't be able to wash yourself here because there is no sewage system in the building. However, if desired, it is not difficult to do. To do this, you need to install a standard shower tray in the corner of the bathhouse and lead the drain pipe into the septic tank.

Photo No. 1 Build such a “barrel sauna” at your dacha and steam to your heart’s content

An important advantage of this design is its low weight, allowing it to be placed on a plank terrace.

The device itself the simplest bath from the container category is shown in photo No. 2.

Photo No. 2 Container option country bathhouse

It consists of one steam room. For washing, the owner needs to attach a canopy with a summer shower or add a sewerage system to the room, and the stove - a tank for heating water.

Improvising on the theme of a barrel-shaped bath, let's turn our attention to cellular polycarbonate. You can quickly and easily assemble an original design from it. In order for it to retain heat well, you will need two large sheets of this material and a frame made of metal or wooden blocks. A mineral wool insulation 10 cm thick is laid between them.

The ends of the building can be made from boards, stuffed onto an insulated wooden frame. Place such a bathhouse anywhere: at your dacha, on a polar ice floe or on the top of Everest and you will always be comfortable in its steam room (photo No. 5).

Photo No. 5 Simple barrel-shaped bathhouse

A small Russian bathhouse, made from scraps of timber, can be installed on oak posts. We see an example of such a structure in photograph No. 6.

Photo No. 6 Oak posts are an excellent support for a small wooden bathhouse

Larger structures require their own foundation. There are three options here:

1. Rubble concrete tape.
2. Brick columns.
3. Piles made of asbestos cement pipes.

Do not forget that the type of foundation affects the choice of material and wall design. Pile and columnar foundations are used for installation wooden frame, as well as for baths made of timber or logs (photos No. 7 and No. 8).

Photo No. 7 Bathhouse made of SIP panels on screw piles

Photo No. 8 Brick columns - the best option for timber, log and frame structures

The “tape” of rubble concrete is suitable for any walls (made of gas silicate blocks, logs and frames).

A cheap, reliable and simple version of a bathhouse is obtained using technology. For such a structure you will need little: a truck of firewood, a cart of straw and a dump truck of clay (photo No. 10).

The best shape for a wood burning structure is round. It eliminates the need to reinforce masonry corners and looks aesthetically pleasing and original.

By borrowing from birds the technology of building nests from branches and clay, you can build such a simple and warm bathhouse (photo No. 11).

Photo No. 11 Wicker frame coated with clay - “know-how” of an inexpensive bathhouse design

Recommendations for choosing finishing, insulation, sewerage installation, flooring, roofing and stove

For the exterior finishing of a frame bath, we can recommend the following materials:

• Wooden blockhouse.
• Metal tiles or corrugated sheets.
• Plastic siding.
• Cement particle board (CSB).
• OSB board.
• Flat slate.

Photo No. 12 A simple, but at the same time very nice option for exterior finishing of a bathhouse using unedged boards

It is best to use ecowool as insulation. It does not accumulate moisture, does not rot and does not burn. If ecowool is not available in your region, then you can buy ordinary mineral insulation in the form of a semi-rigid slab. It is easily and simply placed in the spaces between the frame posts.

To protect mineral wool from water vapor and reduce heat loss, the walls are lined with sheets of foil polyethylene. After that, a frame of slats is attached to them and trimmed with wood: alder, linden or pine clapboard (photo No. 13).

Photo No. 13 Steam and heat insulation of the walls of a country bathhouse built from any material

We do not recommend installing OSB board indoors. This material releases toxic gases when exposed to high temperatures.

Options for steam and thermal insulation of walls of a frame structure, as well as a bathhouse built from blocks or logs, are presented in Figure No. 1.

Building a simple bathhouse with your own hands includes sewerage. It can be made from standard plastic pipes led into a cesspool or drainage well.

The water intake funnel is placed in the center or in the corner of the room, and the floor is made in the form of expanded clay concrete screed with a slope towards the drain. Before concreting, you need to compact the soil and cover it with several layers of waterproofing. Wooden flooring is an excellent option, but in a bathhouse it quickly rots and requires replacement. Instead, we recommend making gratings from wooden slats and laying them on a concrete screed. After washing, they can be removed, taken outside and dried.

The design of the bath ceiling is standard. First, a vapor barrier film is “attached” to the rafters and counter-battens (3x4 cm) are stuffed. A clapboard cladding is attached to them. The gaps between the rafters are filled with insulation and covered with under-roofing film. It protects it from weathering and atmospheric moisture (Fig. No. 2).

Fig No. 2 Ceiling structure of a country bathhouse

A counter-lattice is placed on the film, creating a ventilated gap between the roof and the insulation. The work on installing the ceiling and roof is completed by installing the main sheathing and laying the roofing material (slate or metal tiles).

The main “detail” of any country bathhouse is the stove. It should provide rapid heating of the air and maintain a high temperature. A metal stove heats up the fastest.

To accumulate heat and create steam, it must be equipped with a compartment for stones. There are many options for stoves for simple baths, so we will not dwell on them in detail. Let's just say that the easiest way to make a heat generator is from a steel pipe large diameter, an old gas cylinder or barrel (photo No. 15). Another easy-to-use material is a steel sheet 3-5 mm thick (photo No. 16).

Photo No. 15-16 A simple stove made of a pipe and a stove made of ferrous metal

Knowing the simplest welding techniques, you can assemble such a structure without outside help.

A vacation without a bath is not a vacation. Replace the bathhouse with suburban area neither a summer shower nor a bath can. Of course, if the budget is very limited, you should not attempt to build a two-story bath complex with a swimming pool. But build a small one cozy bathhouse on a suburban plot it is possible with minimal investment.

In this article, we will look at how to build a budget sauna with your own hands, reveal the secrets of choosing and saving building materials, and tell you how to prevent lapses and mistakes for novice craftsmen.

The most popular materials for building baths are wood, bricks and blocks. A wooden bathhouse can be in the form of a log house or frame.

Wood

Wood is a classic material for building baths. Wood is valued for its environmental friendliness and ease of processing. Wooden baths quickly warm up, and the essential resins released into the air have a beneficial effect on the well-being of visitors.

However, wood is far from ideal option for construction. In order for the walls of the bathhouse to be smooth, you need to choose quality timber or a log. Don't forget about shrinkage. The better the wood is dried, the lower the percentage of shrinkage and the risk that the log house will “lead.”

It is important to be able to work with an ax and saw, to have sufficient physical strength and endurance to cut out locks to connect corners, external and internal walls, and ceilings. Of course, you can buy a ready-made log house with delivery to the site, but this involves additional costs and is not relevant for the construction of a budget bathhouse. It is best to carry out the construction with at least two people, because it is extremely difficult to lay the crowns alone, especially the top ones.

For the construction of a bathhouse, hardwood, such as linden, is best suited. This material is considered relatively light, therefore, if the geological conditions of the area allow, you can save on the foundation and limit yourself to a lightweight strip version (monolithic or prefabricated).

What else can you save on? For example, on insulation and finishing. If the bathhouse will be used for its intended purpose only in warm time year, there is no need to purchase insulation, beams for sheathing, steam and wind insulation, finishing decorative material for the facade of the bathhouse. Wood, if thoroughly sanded and coated with protective impregnation and varnish, is quite aesthetically pleasing and fits perfectly into the landscape design of private land plots.

In a budget bathhouse, you can save on organizing a full-fledged sewerage system and water supply. Since ancient times, in Russian baths, the floors were made to pour, and water was carried in buckets in advance. Yes, this causes some inconvenience, but it will not spoil the overall pleasant experience of the bath procedures.

What can't you save on? Wood is a highly flammable material. If you just neglect to close the ash door, a falling hot coal will lead to a fire and damage to property. A similar situation is possible if fire safety rules are neglected when installing a stove and Therefore, in no case should you skimp on:

• fire-bioprotective impregnation;
• fire cutting;
• materials for insulating the floor in front of the firebox and

We strongly do not recommend saving on fasteners. Firstly, the difference will be insignificant, and secondly, low-quality metal hardware will quickly begin to rust, and unsightly black smudges will appear on the walls. The worst thing that rusted fasteners will lead to is the collapse of building elements due to the loss of their strength.

It is very important to properly organize ventilation in wooden baths. Even if the bathhouse is only 4-6 square meters. Visitors are unlikely to like the aroma of mustiness and mold, and the owner will not be pleased with rotting floors and walls.

Now let’s talk more specifically about wood prices in order to roughly calculate construction costs.

Lumber	Breed	Section or diameter, cm	Price in rubles per cubic meter
Profiled timber	Pine, spruce	140x140	From 11.5 to 14.5 thousand rubles.
Profiled timber	Larch	140x140	From 16.5 to 18.5 thousand rubles.
Round timber	Larch	From 180 to 460	From 8.5 to 10 thousand rubles.
Carriage	Larch	150x250	From 15 thousand rubles.

*The average cost of building materials is current for 2017.

Based on the cost of new lumber, budget sauna It definitely won't work. The way out of the situation is to buy used timber at a price of 1000 rubles per cubic meter or from 80 rubles per 1 piece. Used pallets can also be useful if used correctly.

Bricks and blocks

A bathhouse made of blocks or bricks will undoubtedly be more durable than a wooden one. And a fire that suddenly breaks out is not scary for stone walls. At your own taste and discretion, you can build a bathhouse of any size and shape, as long as funds and personal time allow.

Brick manufacturers always have a wide range of products from the most different forms, shades, textures. For example, combining a brick of two different shades When building walls, you can build a bathhouse that will be very neat and aesthetically pleasing in appearance.

Note! In a brick bathhouse, the window can be replaced with glass blocks. They have sufficient light transmittance. But in this case, it is important to take care of effective ventilation.

A brick bath takes longer to warm up than a wooden one, and cools down much faster. Brick walls need finishing, and this adds expense items to the overall estimate. For laying bricks, a cement-sand mortar is used, which can be bought ready-made and simply diluted with water in the required proportions, or you can prepare the mixture yourself and spend less money.

How much will it cost to build a bathhouse made of M100 ordinary brick?

Building material	Description	Price
	Width 120 mm, height 65 mm, length 250 mm.	From 6.20 rub. for 1 piece.
	Has the same dimensions as a regular one. Used for laying those walls that are exposed to direct heat. For example, from fireclay bricks lay out the base under the oven and the protective screen.	From 41 rub. for 1 piece.
	River sand for preparing masonry mixture or concrete mortar for pouring the foundation	From 68 rubles for 30 kg
	The purpose is the same as that of sand. Crushed stone fraction 5-20 mm.	From 86 rub. for 30 kg
	M400	From 195 rub. for 50 kg

For an example of calculating the cost of masonry, let’s take single brick and laying in one brick (wall thickness will be 25 cm). Using the table data we get:

• taking into account mortar joints per 1 sq. m of masonry requires 102 bricks;
• 102 bricks x 6.20 rub. = 632.4 rub.

Brick prices

Typically, bricks are purchased with a margin of up to 15%, taking into account possible defects. And to the cost of laying 1 square meter of wall you need to add the cost of the mortar. Don’t forget that you may need a concrete mixer, joint compound, a set of mason’s tools, etc.

Foam blocks and gas blocks are materials that are increasingly used for the construction of baths. Their main advantage is the high speed of construction. The disadvantages are similar to bricks.

The blocks are laid with reinforcement in the rows, fixation is carried out special glue or cement-sand mortar.

To build a bathhouse, blocks measuring 200 x 300 x 600 mm are often used. One such block costs from 93 rubles. For internal partitions, blocks of smaller thickness are suitable - 100 or 120 mm and cost from 50 rubles per 1 piece.

Number of blocks in 1 sq. m the following:

• with a wall thickness of 20 cm, there will be 5.5 blocks in one square meter of wall (5.5 x 93 = 511 rubles);
• with a wall thickness of 30 cm, there will be 8.33 blocks in one square meter of wall (8.33 x 93 = 774.69 rubles).

We conclude: for the construction of a budget bathhouse, it is preferable to use not brick, but blocks 200 x 300 x 600 mm, construction should be carried out with a wall thickness of 20 cm. You need to take into account the cost of glue for the blocks (from 155 rubles for 30 kg, consumption is approximately 1.2- 1.4 kg per 1 sq. m of masonry) and do not forget that blocks are purchased with a reserve.

Important! In an effort to save money, you should not sacrifice the reliability and durability of the bathhouse. You can always buy, for example, a used brick for pennies, but there is no guarantee that in the next decade such a brick, and with it the walls of the bathhouse, will not begin to collapse.

A big plus of building a bathhouse from blocks is the high strength of the walls, which is achieved by reinforcing the rows. Provided the reinforcement is done correctly, the walls will not crack. Even when building a budget bathhouse, you should not neglect the safety margin of the walls, so as not to start major repairs of the bathhouse in the next few years.

Prices for foam blocks

foam block

Construction of a bathhouse made of aerated concrete with a brick base

We will consider the process of building a bathhouse with dimensions of 6x5 m. This area is enough to arrange three main rooms: a relaxation room or dressing room, a shower room, and a steam room. If the free space on the site does not allow the construction of a 6x5 m bathhouse, you can reduce the dimensions to 4x4 m, and divide the internal space into a dressing room and a steam room, without a shower or other amenities.

So let's begin. Inspect your plot of land and prepare the site for construction. It is necessary to remove debris, uproot stumps, remove top layer soil with grass growing on it, level and compact the area.

You need to prepare a bathhouse design in advance with the order of the masonry. Using the drawings it is easier to calculate the amount of building materials and carry out construction.

Mark the area, dig trenches, and pour a shallow strip foundation. Don't forget about the products. You can read more about pouring technology.

It is important to especially carefully level the upper surface of the foundation during the pouring process. If, however, the base has horizontal deviations, it is necessary to level everything with cement-sand mortar.

Step 1. We lay waterproofing material, for example, strips of roofing felt, on the foundation strip.

Prices for roofing material

roofing felt

Step 2. Mix cement-sand mortar for brick laying. To prepare the solution we use the following proportions:

• cement M400 – 1 bucket;
• sifted river sand - 2 buckets;
• dishwashing detergent or any similar - from 50 to 100 ml.

Important! We recommend that you first add water and detergent to the concrete mixer or solution container, then add cement and sand, stirring constantly. The consistency of the finished solution will resemble thick sour cream, and if you run your finger over the mixture, a clear, non-blurring trace will remain. Kneading should be carried out for 3 to 5 minutes.

We transfer the finished solution into buckets and transport it to the construction site.

Step 3. We begin laying the brick plinth. We will work from the corners of the bathhouse.

Apply the mortar to the brick with a trowel. We lay the brick on the corner of the foundation (along the outer edge). Place a bubble level on the brick and, if necessary, tap the brick with the handle of a trowel. We repeat the procedure at the next corner of the bathhouse foundation.

It is important that the bricks laid at the corners are at the same level. To check, we pull the mooring thread and additionally check the position of the bricks with a water level. Place the second brick at each corner perpendicular to the first.

We lay the plinth “in one and a half bricks”. At standard sizes bricks, the total width of the base will be 38 cm. This width is made up of one brick length (25 cm) and one brick width (12 cm), 1 cm is the connecting mortar seam.

Place the first outer row with a spoon facing outwards. We lay the bricks on the mortar previously applied with a trowel, pressing it into the mortar and moving it slightly back and forth. We leave a gap between adjacent bricks, into which we add mortar with a trowel. We immediately remove the excess solution with a trowel. We knock the bricks so that they are all in the same plane (the reference point is a stretched mooring thread). As a result, if you look at the base from the “street” side, you will see a row laid “in half a brick”.

We lay the inner row with a poke towards the future premises of the bathhouse. Next, we carry out the laying according to the order scheme, observing the bandaging of the seams.

We lay out 2 rows of bricks and move on to arranging the floor covering.

Step 4. To arrange the floor covering, you need to prepare the beams.

The beams must be fixed in the “sockets” of the plinth to a depth of 10 cm. We measure the width of the interior, add 20 cm, and get the length of the beams. The section of beams can be selected using the table.

*Section is indicated in millimeters. The beams are laid on edge. Maximum floor load 400 kg/m 3 .

We cut the roofing felt into rectangular pieces 15 cm wide. We wrap the ends of the beams with roofing felt and fix it with a construction stapler.

We lay the beams on their ends, observing equal distance between them.

We continue with bricklaying.

We lay out two more rows, observing the dressing. We also lay brick between the beams, sawing it with a grinder if necessary.

The height of a single row brick is 65 mm. Accordingly, two rows of bricks plus two mortar joints in height will be 150 mm, top surface the beams will be flush with the surface of the brickwork.

Laying the fourth row

Recommendation! If the brick is pre-moistened with water (without soaking it), it will not absorb moisture from the mortar. The masonry will be very strong. The recommendation is relevant for work in hot weather.

Step 5. The basement is built, we move on to laying walls from aerated concrete blocks.

We lay a layer of roofing felt on the brick over the entire surface of the external and internal walls of the bathhouse.

We begin work again from the corners of the bathhouse. Mix the solution and place a layer on top of the roofing material.

Level the solution with a notched trowel. Installing the first block.

Similarly, we install the second block on the adjacent corner of the plinth. The most difficult thing is to bring both blocks to zero. We check with a hydraulic level, bubble level, if there is laser level, it's better to use it.

There is no hurry here. If necessary, you can remove the block, remove excess solution, or add more solution. The horizontal deviation should not be more than two millimeters.

We lay out the first row of blocks on the solution. If the distance between adjacent blocks does not allow installing a whole block, it is necessary to make a cut with a hacksaw with small teeth. After cutting, sweep away the dust with a brush.

When laying out the blocks, do not forget about the doorway.

Step 6. Let's move on to reinforcing the first row of blocks.

We prepare a set of tools for work in advance.

Tool	Approximate minimum cost, rub.
	450
	490
	500
	600
	365

*Used tools will cost less.

For reinforcement we use corrugated rods of class A3. The diameter of the rods is 8 mm. It is not advisable to take reinforcement of greater thickness.

Using a hand wall chaser, we cut two grooves for the reinforcement. For convenience, you can draw two parallel straight lines using a ruler on the surface of the blocks in advance with a pencil. At the corners of the bathhouse and at the junction of the internal partitions with the external walls, the grooves are round and parallel.

We clean the surface of the groove from dust using a damp brush.

We take the reinforcement and put it in grooves. We bend the reinforcement at the corners. Please ensure that the reinforcement bars are not connected at the corners. The rods can be connected at a distance of more than 30 cm from the corners.

We remove the reinforcement from the grooves and place it on the surface of the blocks.

Mix glue for aerated concrete (approximate cost for 25 kg - 220 rubles).

Pour water into the bucket, then add the dry mixture from the bag. Mix the glue with a drill with a mixer attachment at low speeds (up to 800 rpm). The consistency of the glue should be similar to thick sour cream. The glue should not spread.

Fill the grooves with glue. Spread the glue with a spatula. We embed the reinforcement in the glue. If necessary, add more glue on top of the laid reinforcement so that the surface of the gas blocks is smooth, without grooves or bumps.

Step 7 We proceed to laying the second row of gas blocks. We start traditionally from the corner. Let's start applying glue under the block.

Important! Do not forget about the need to lay blocks with a bandage similar to half-brick brickwork. The displacement of the upper block relative to the lower one should be from 15 cm to ½ the length of the block.

It is most convenient to apply glue with a ladle (trowel). The working width of the trowel must correspond to the width of the block. This will allow you to apply the glue quickly and accurately. But sometimes builders use homemade devices, for example, as in the photo. The main thing is to evenly apply a thin layer of glue over the entire surface of the blocks.

Note! The applied layer of glue can be continuous, but it is the use of notched spatulas or special ladles that can reduce glue consumption.

We continue laying the blocks of the second row. We check the correct installation of the blocks in two planes - vertical and horizontal. If necessary, grind the surfaces of the blocks.

To make tying the blocks easier, you can start laying with half a block. We cut the gas block with a hacksaw. Sweep away the dust with a brush. Apply a thick layer of glue (2-3 mm) to the ends of the block. Installing the block.

We continue laying the blocks of the second row. We check the correct installation of the blocks in two planes - vertical and horizontal.

Important! If the bathhouse is more than 6 meters high, it is recommended to reinforce every fourth row of masonry.

Prices for cement M600

cement M600

Step 8 We move on to laying lintels and their reinforcement.

There should be reinforced lintels above the window and door openings. The easiest way is to use U-blocks, but this comes with additional costs.

To save money, you can manually make recesses in ordinary gas blocks. To do this, we make two cuts along the width of the recess on the block with a hacksaw, then remove the excess material using a chisel and a hammer.

To lay the blocks, we make formwork from boards. The blocks will rest on the top of the formwork. We fix the horizontal board with supports and fasten the elements with ordinary self-tapping screws.

The reinforced belt should protrude beyond the window and door opening by at least 15 cm. We install the blocks on the formwork. We fasten the ends of the blocks with glue.

Inside the blocks, closer to the outer edge, we lay pieces of EPS (Penoplex) 50 mm thick.

Let's start knitting the armored belt. For tying we use plastic clamps (ties). The reinforced belt consists of four long parallel rods, and every 0.5 m there are vertical sections of reinforcement. In cross-section, the armored belt should form a square.

Important! The armored belt cannot be laid directly on aerated concrete. Plastic clips must be used. Without clamps, the reinforced frame will not take the correct position and will not be filled with concrete mixture on all sides.

We install the frame with clamps and fill it with concrete flush with the edges of the gas blocks. Concrete mix compact by piercing with a rod or wooden slats. Level the surface as thoroughly as possible.

Now you need to take a technical break and wait until the solution sets. This will take from 10 days to two weeks.

Step 9 So, the concrete in the lintels has hardened, we continue construction. If the height of the walls is insufficient, we lay out another row of blocks. In our case, this row will be the final one on the first floor and at the same time will serve as an armored belt.

We make the armored belt on the floor using the same technology as the lintels, but with one difference. Now the armored belt will be poured along the entire perimeter of the external and internal walls. For the sake of economy, we do not use U-blocks, but cut and hollow out solid wall blocks.

1. We lay the entire row of prepared blocks on the glue.

   

   

   

2. We install polystyrene foam boards. We cut them carefully, using a ruler, so that the edges are even.
3. We knit a reinforced frame.

   

   

4. We install the clamps and lay the frame inside the blocks.

   

   We pour concrete.

5. Level the surface.
6. We are waiting for the concrete to harden.

Step 10 The first floor cannot immediately end with a roof, of course. Let's move on to arrangement interfloor covering. It will be wooden. We place antiseptic beams with waterproofed ends on an armored belt. A similar technology was discussed above when the base was built.

But since now we are not laying brick, but gas block, we make cuts in each block under the ends of the beams.

It is important to accurately measure the distances between the beams and carefully select even rectangular niches in the blocks with a chisel and hammer. We lay the blocks in a standard way, observing the dressing, applying glue to the previous row and the ends of the blocks.

Important! In our construction example, the bathhouse will have a small balcony. Therefore, several beams extend beyond the bathhouse wall.

Step 11 Laying the subfloor. We lay the edged board on top of the beams. We fix the boards to the beams with self-tapping screws right through the board. If the board is 50 mm thick, take hardware 8 cm long.

We leave a rectangular opening in the floor for access to the attic.

In the future, when the floors are ready, windows and doors are installed, decorative finishing will be done, a foil vapor barrier will be stretched in the steam room, clapboard or a simple board made of hardwood will be nailed.

Step 12 Usually, a one-story bathhouse is enough for owners to spend their time comfortably. The space under the roof is often used to store fragrant bath brooms.

Sometimes in the bathhouse on the second floor they put small sofa, table, arranging a relaxation room. Our project provides just such a room on the second floor. After the bath procedures, it will be pleasant to relax, cool down, go out to the small balcony. A window on the second floor will increase the efficiency of ventilation and reduce the cost of building materials.

The roof has a complex configuration. On both sides there are two trapezoidal pediments, tightly laid with gas block. And if you look from the side of one of these gables, the perpendicularly located roof slopes on both sides are clearly visible.

Advice! If you are not confident in your abilities, limit yourself to building a simple pitched or gable roof.

The main stages of work during the construction of the second floor and roof:

• installation of vertical racks made of timber;
• installation of horizontal piping;

  

• laying floor beams on top of the frame;

  

  

  

• installation of extreme roof trusses along the gables;

  

  Floor beams and rafters

  

  

• installation of intermediate trusses;

  

• masonry of gables from blocks;

  

  

• installation of vapor barrier on the room side;

  

• lining the ceiling and slopes from the inside with boards;

  

• laying mineral wool in two layers;

  

• installation of wind protection on top of the insulation;

  

• installation of counter-lattice under metal tiles;

  

  

• assembly of a gable canopy over the balcony, installation of a windproof membrane and counter-lattice on the canopy slopes;

  

• installation of metal tiles and additional elements.

  

  

  

  

You can watch the video to see how a roof of complex configuration is erected.

Prices for gas blocks

gas blocks

Video – Roof construction

Video - Construction of gables

Video - Rafters, armored belt

Video - Completion of installation of rafters, laying aerated concrete walls of the second floor

Video - Overlapping, vapor barrier

Video - Roof insulation

Video - Counter-lattice for metal tiles

Video - Washed down the ends of the counter-lattice, filing the ceiling

Video - Laying metal tiles

Shed roof for a budget bathhouse

Step 1. We attach the Mauerlat on top of the armored belt. It is a board fixed with dowels (wood grouse).

We drill holes in the boards and then in the blocks. We hammer in the dowels. We lay a layer of roofing felt as waterproofing. We lay the Mauerlat board and screw in the screws (capcaillie).

Step 2. We install vertical posts and horizontal strapping beams. The height of the front part is 130 cm, from the rear of the bathhouse – 30 cm. The roof slope will be 18 degrees.

We fix the beams with metal perforated corners and wood screws.

Note! To prevent the racks from becoming loose from gusts of wind, we temporarily fasten the boards connecting the front and rear frames with self-tapping screws.

Step 3. We lay the rafters (we place straight boards on edge and fasten them with perforated corners to the horizontal beams of the front and rear frames).

Step 4. We install counter-lattice boards perpendicular to the rafters.

Step 5. We fasten the corrugated sheets. We cut off the counter-battens sticking out at the edges of the boards.

Step 6. We strengthen the frame with jibs. On the sides we install posts made of timber and one additional jib to attach the sheathing in the future.

Step 7 We hem the rough ceiling.

Step 8 We cover the frame with plywood. We treat plywood sheets with protective impregnation.

Step 9 We foam the gaps between the blocks and plywood.

Step 10 If decorative finishing of the facade is not yet planned, we attach protective canopies made of tin.

Plaster can be used as a decorative finish for the facade of a bathhouse. It is necessary to select a mixture for cellular concrete. Conventional cement-sand mixtures are not suitable for this purpose. Aerated concrete quickly absorbs all the moisture from the plaster, decorative coating cracks and falls off.

To plaster the facade, you need to clean it with a grater from any remaining glue and sand off any unevenness, if any. After sanding, you need to apply the “Aerated Concrete-Contact” primer to the walls. Plaster mortar applied with a wide spatula over a fiberglass mesh secured with self-tapping screws. After the plaster has dried, you can paint the facade or simply apply a water repellent.

Hello! I'll tell you how I built a bathhouse at the dacha. Built alone. Sometimes only (when installing heavy or long parts) did he ask someone to help (when installing the frame and rafters).

Well, I'll start from the beginning. First, we determine the area where the bathhouse will be. We mark the location of the future foundation and begin digging.

We are digging under the foundation.

Since our site is located on quicksand, the foundation was made stronger. I bought pieces of reinforcement at a collection point for ferrous scrap metal. I welded a frame out of them and laid them on bricks so that the metal did not touch the ground.

Next, we make formwork so that the foundation protrudes above the surface. For the formwork I used chipboard from old cabinets. I placed the straight edges up and leveled it around the entire perimeter. This is necessary so that you don’t have to remove the level with a brick later. We lay a sewer pipe to drain the water.

Next we fill it with concrete. You can bring ready-made concrete with a mixer (this is if there are access routes for the mixer). In my case, it was not possible for a mixer to be accessible. I ordered 1 Kamaz OPGS (Enriched Sand and Gravel Mix). They dumped it on the plot (by the way, my plot is small, only 4 acres). And all the hard work began. From one end of the site to the bathhouse, I carry 3 buckets of OPGS + 1 bucket of cement on a construction wheelbarrow. I added water on the spot and mixed it in the same wheelbarrow with a shovel, poured the finished mixture and leveled it. Since I did it all alone, it took me 2 days. At that time, I thought it was pointless to buy a concrete mixer, but later it turned out that it would be better to buy it, because then I would fill the paths and other little things. In short, if you have such an idea, buy a stirrer, it costs 7-8 thousand. For one thing, we fill the foundation for the stove.

We wait until the poured foundation sets and gets stronger and begins to lay out the base of red brick. Between the foundation and the brick I put a layer of waterproofing on it, 2 rows of brick. When laying bricks I left sewer pipes 50mm for ventilation and one polypropylene pipe for cold water supply.

We bring the log house and lay out all the logs in order so that later we don’t have to look for the ones we need.

I already put 2 layers of TechnoNIKOL waterproofing material on the finished brick base and began to assemble the frame. I sanded each log using a grinder with a sanding attachment. I used jute to seal the joints. They were waiting to nail it with a stapler and when installing the log, they threw it in to crush the jute. The log house has been assembled. Immediately treated the outside with a bug and weatherproofing treatment.

The log house has been assembled.

Rafters and sheathing.

Pediments.

Waiting room.

Entrance door.

The ceiling is made of 40mm boards. I glued it with foil and covered it with aspen clapboard, and insulated it with ecowool on top.

Shelf frame.

The stove is fenced from the log house.

The floors in the dressing room were covered with yacht varnish.

Well, this is what happened in the end.

www.drive2.ru/users/malaika11/

All about concrete and gypsum products

How to build a bathhouse in the country

Building a bathhouse and its further arrangement on your own is not an easy task. But still, doable. Initially, you should think about choosing the right materials and components. It is worth noting that today there are many building materials that are perfect for building a summer house. Therefore, you can easily get confused in choosing these materials. However, there is no need to worry. After all, the special portal Beton-Area.com today will tell you how to build a bathhouse in the country with your own hands inexpensively. Here we will give useful tips and we'll show you special video, with the help of which it will be possible to carry out this process correctly.

How to choose the right place to build a bathhouse

In order for the bathhouse to serve for a long time, first of all, you need to make the right choice of location for the future bathhouse. IN in this case Our advice will be simply useful to you.

• The location of the bathhouse should be chosen away from any body of water. Why do you need to do this? It turns out that it can simply be flooded with water.
• You can make an additional bathhouse by attaching it to an existing house, or build it separately standing building. These options differ from each other with their unique advantages and disadvantages. In any case, only you can choose suitable option construction of a future bathhouse.
• The most suitable place for building a future bathhouse is the outermost part of your land plot or yard.
• For a bathhouse, it is necessary to properly provide a good future ventilation system and proper drainage.
• The location chosen for construction, located close to the road, will be considered incorrect.
• The southern part of the site or yard is considered the correct choice for this construction site. It turns out that in the southern part of the land ready sauna will receive maximum sunlight. In addition, in this part of the yard the bathhouse will be protected from the wind. Indeed, if you build a bathhouse in the southern part of your yard, you can make the stay of people vacationing there as comfortable and very pleasant as possible.
• If you decide to attach a bathhouse to an existing house, then in this case it is necessary to comply with fire safety requirements.
• It is advisable to choose a future location for the construction of this building away from the nearest neighboring houses, since your bathhouse may be an inconvenience for good rest people living near you.
• If possible, it is best to place the windows in the bathhouse in the western part of the finished building.
• The bathhouse must be built close to the existing well, at a distance of approximately 15-20m.

This publication will completely answer the question of how to build a bathhouse in the country. Let's continue talking about this process.

So, before building a bathhouse, you need to competently draw and design the future structure. Choose the future area of ​​your bathhouse wisely. Remember that it must be at least 6 sq.m. for 1 person in this building. Let’s say if the bathhouse will be visited by 5 people, then its area should accordingly be 30 sq.m. As a rule, the bathhouse should have a room dedicated to the steam room. Also in the bathhouse you need to place a rest room and a dressing room. In organizing the premises that should be located in the bathhouse, you need to decide for yourself what area to determine for the listed future rooms.

First you need to design and draw drawings of the future bathhouse. The drawings should include:

1. General design of the bathhouse.
2. The design of all the rooms that will be located in this room.
3. Roof drawing.
4. Description of beam fastening.
5. Schemes of the future ceiling and floor.
6. Options for installing a stove in a future bathhouse.

All of the listed schemes and projects can be prepared by yourself. It is also possible to find such drawings on readable sites on the Internet or any other sources. In general, having examined a large number of data from drawings and projects of the future bathhouse, we can conclude that they are all practically similar to each other, and have only slight differences.

Necessary selection of components and materials for the bath

To build a bathhouse using timber, you need to purchase the necessary components and various materials.

• To build a bathhouse, you should buy a building material - timber, which will have a cross-section of 150 by 150 mm.
• To lay the future floor in the bathhouse you will need to buy wooden board. The right choice is an edged board that is four meters long with a section of 15 by 5 centimeters.
• The material for the ceiling is usually lining boards.
• You should also take care of purchasing all kinds of materials for carrying out finishing works indoors. In most cases, the use of wooden forcing for finishing the bathhouse is very popular.
• It is also important to purchase a certain amount vapor barrier materials- tapes or films of different properties. The most commonly used material for baths is penofol or polyethylene film.
• For a finished bath, it is recommended to purchase materials for insulating a ready-made ceiling. Most builders choose ecowool or mineral wool. These materials are environmentally friendly and have good heat and sound insulation properties. Therefore, they are perfect for insulating the ceiling in a bathhouse.
• The construction of a bathhouse involves the use of asbestos-cement materials to ensure good and much-needed thermal insulation in the bathhouse. The most practical and effective material is sheet asbestos. As a rule, these sheets are placed and reinforced on the walls located near the stove and chimney.
• It is impossible to imagine the construction of a bathhouse without a foundation. Therefore, to make the foundation of a modern bathhouse, materials with free-flowing properties are used - sand, cement and crushed stone.
• During the construction of a bathhouse, it is necessary to use materials for final finishing roofs. In this case, you can resort to various options you like. The main thing in performing this task is the appearance of the future roof. It should not stand out too much from the surrounding neighboring houses or buildings.
• It is advisable to build a future bathhouse in the spring. This is necessary so that after all work is completed there is time left for the shrinkage of this room. Also, all materials used in the construction of the bathhouse must dry. Cement should be purchased before construction work. In this case, it will not deteriorate.

General instructions for building a bathhouse

The construction of the bathhouse must be carried out in several stages. First, work is carried out to prepare the site for construction, and then furnishing the rooms with all kinds of accessories and components.

We are preparing the site for construction. The required area must first be cleared, debris and any existing roots of plants or trees removed. This work is necessary to obtain a more level place for the future foundation.

Making the foundation. The most popular view existing foundation work is a foundation supported in the form of pillars. The first step is to dig the required number of holes to place the future support of our foundation in them. Their installation is carried out under the right angle along the general perimeter of the building and where there are areas that intersect with the walls. These pillars are installed, as a rule, depending on the characteristics of the existing soil at the site of the building and on the load that will act on the support. The depth of the required holes for the foundation should be approximately 110-160cm. All holes must be filled with a mixture of sand and pebbles. The depth of the layer should be 13-20cm. It is necessary to install cement pipes in the finished pits, maintaining a clear vertical level. In each of them, placing reinforcement consisting of metal rods. Pipes should be filled with concrete containing reinforcement. This structure should be given time for 5-6 days to strengthen and harden. After this, we will begin work on laying a half-brick wall between the pillars.

Making the roof and walls of the future bathhouse. To make the walls of the future room, timber measuring 150 by 150 mm is used. The beams are laid on a foundation that is ready and insulated with special material, using the so-called “paw” method. The timber for the walls is laid at the required height, making sure to leave gaps for future doors and windows in the building. A special insulation is laid between the layers of laid beams.

Components and accessories for the operation of the bath. The upper part of the lined wall is brought under the roof and strengthened in accordance with the given shape of the roof of the room. We attach the rafters to the final layer of timber construction staples. If you have chosen a pitched roof, then the rafters need to be secured with two supports - either internal or external. Having a gable roof, the existing lower parts of the rafters should be supported on the walls. And the upper parts of the rafters are connected to each other and take the shape of a ridge.

Indoor arrangement. Initially, it is necessary to begin the arrangement by carrying out the required system communications. Communications such as sewerage should be taken care of before starting to pour the foundation. First of all, make a drainage hole or well outside the future bathhouse. The connection to the pit is made using a pipe laid at a certain slope.

After completing this work, you should proceed to making the floor in the room. There are several types of it - concrete or wooden. Concrete floors were finished using tiles. This material is very practical. A floor made of wood is made with water drainage through it. This is very easy to do. Boards with certain gaps are nailed to the installed joists. Most builders use a hatch to remove waste, covering it with a special grill. When using this technology, you need to lay the floor with the required slope. In this case, all the accumulated water will exit through the hatch into the pipe, and from there will fall into the drainage hole.

To increase the service life of wood, our advice is to ventilate the bathhouse every time after visiting it.

In the bathhouse you also need to provide good heat, moisture and vapor barrier, using the necessary materials for this. Install windows and doors. Provide electricity.

Manufacturing and installation of shelves and stove in the bathhouse

The appearance and design features of the shelves you choose in the bathhouse can be anything. Shelves are installed in next order- the first step was to install the frame using wooden beams, and then the necessary boards were nailed to it.

When purchasing a stove for a bath, people, in most cases, choose the product that they like best in appearance. Also, many people build a stone stove on their own, and some people buy special equipment for baths or an apparatus with heating elements.

Components and accessories for the operation of the bath

There are a huge number of all kinds of components and accessories for taking a bath on sale. You can buy for your finished bath: various wooden buckets and cisterns, oak brooms, mugs, bowls and other necessary attributes. The interior of the bathhouse can be different, depending on your preferences and taste.

Now you know how to build a bathhouse at your dacha with your own hands step by step.

How to build a sauna at your dacha inexpensively with your own hands useful recommendations and video

So, before building a bathhouse, you need to competently draw and design the future structure. Choose the future area of ​​your bathhouse wisely. Remember that it must be at least 6 sq.m.

Do-it-yourself bathhouse in the country: step-by-step instructions

A trip to the dacha is a joyful event, since there you can do some gardening or landscaping, and then relax by taking a steam bath, provided that there is one there. We will tell you how to properly make a bathhouse at your dacha with your own hands, demonstrate drawings, diagrams and photo instructions. It will take a lot of work, but it will be worth it.

In your imagination, you probably already see how you approach the bathhouse, open the door and find yourself in a warm and cozy dressing room, and then in the steam room. Yes! This is exactly what will happen, but a little later. First you need:

• choose a suitable project;
• get acquainted with the stages of construction;
• purchase building materials;
• build a bathhouse and install all communications;
• execute interior decoration and only then steam.

If, after reading the introduction, you still have the desire to make a bathhouse at your dacha, then we will continue the topic, considering all stages of construction.

Choosing a place to build a bathhouse

You need to choose the right place for the bathhouse

Often, summer cottages are not large in size, but in addition to personal preferences and convenience, there are also standards that must be adhered to. Let's look at preferences first.

1. It would be better to place the bathhouse on a hill, which would greatly simplify the organization of water drainage.
2. It’s good when the bathhouse is located next to a pond or river.
3. The rays of the setting sun penetrating into the steam room through the window will relieve stress, but at the same time it is necessary to make sure that the entrance to the bathhouse is clearly visible from the window country house. This way you can watch the heating of the bathhouse and the children, especially when a swimming pool is built in front of the entrance.
4. The bathhouse can be made as an extension to the house.

So that there is no conflict situations with authorities or neighbors, you must comply with the requirements of SNiP 30-02-97. By paying attention to section 6, paragraphs 6, 7 and 8, you will find comprehensive information on the placement of the building on the site, but we will provide only the numbers that you will need in order to choose the optimal location for the bathhouse.

Taking into account fire safety measures for buildings located on opposite sides of the passage, you must adhere to the distances indicated in the table:

A distance that directly depends on the material used in the construction of the building

The same buildings using wooden elements

Wooden and similar buildings

As for the requirements regarding distances to the neighboring site, they are also unambiguous.

Minimum permissible distance between buildings located on a neighboring property

Various outbuildings (including a bathhouse)

It is also important to take into account the requirements for the location of buildings on your site - showers, baths and saunas must be located at a distance of at least 8 m from the garden house.

By the way, failure to comply with these standards can lead to trial with a neighbor and demolishing or moving the bathhouse to another location.

Bathhouse project

When choosing a bathhouse project, it is important to consider the material from which it will be built. There can be several types of structure:

1. Frame bath.
2. Wooden bathhouse (made of timber or rounded logs).
3. Bathhouse made of brick, stone or blocks.
4. Wood concrete structure.

Having decided on the material, when choosing a project, make sure that it suits you according to all the criteria.

Layout of a small bathhouse 6x3 m

Layout option for a log bath

Planning a bathhouse for a summer residence

Bathhouse plan 6x6 m

Material selection

So, having chosen a suitable project, you need to prepare building materials in accordance with its requirements.

• Most often, summer residents prefer to erect frame buildings, since they are the cheapest and successfully cope with their task. In addition, due to the low weight of such a structure, you won’t have to spend a lot on the foundation either.
• The most favorite buildings are wooden ones. The cost of such a building will be slightly higher, and the foundation will need to be made stronger, unlike frame structure. Built in a country house is good wooden sauna does not need insulation.
• Stone and brick are rarely used to build a bathhouse in a country house. This is due to the fact that such a heavy structure requires a strong foundation, and the walls freeze during long absences and such a bathhouse needs to be heated for a long time. The exception is buildings made of foam and gas blocks. The requirements for the strength of the foundation are not so high, the walls are warm, but it is important to take into account that this building material is very hygroscopic, so it must be protected from moisture.
• Wood concrete is also often used in the construction of baths. The walls can be monolithic or built from blocks. The structure is warm, durable and inexpensive.

Wall materials

Since our article deals with several possible options using various building materials, we will consider them separately.

Frame structure

The material for a frame bath should be of good quality, and the bars should be dry and smooth

The walls of such a bathhouse are made in a lattice structure. For the frame walls you will need:

• Timber of various sections, the dimensions and quantity of which are indicated in the project.
• Insulation material with high thermal insulation qualities for filling the frame. Again, you need to adhere to the requirements regarding the use of one or another insulating material, but here you need to take into account that the documentation often indicates one type of material, but not all possible ones. If the specified material is too expensive, then you can turn to the forums to find out what is acceptable in your region.
• Material for covering the frame outside and inside. Most often used for exterior cladding of buildings OSB boards, edged board, siding or block house, while lining is used on the inside.

Wooden sauna

Using a rounded log, you can build a bathhouse very quickly, since everything is prepared in advance at the factory

For the construction of walls the following can be used:

• Natural debarked wood.
• Edged timber.
• Profiled timber.
• Glued laminated timber.
• Rounded log.

Bathhouse made of brick, stone or blocks

The walls of such a bath can be made of the following materials:

• Brick (ceramic or silicate).
• Stone (rubble, limestone, shell rock).
• Block (foam, slag, gas blocks).

Wood concrete structure

Wood concrete is durable and lightweight, which is why it is also often used in construction work.

If you can buy sawdust inexpensively (or maybe you have your own), then at home it is quite possible to make wood concrete blocks of fairly high quality. This building material is also available for sale in the form of ready-made blocks. The walls are erected very quickly. Another advantage of using wood concrete is the possibility of producing monolithic walls by pouring cement-bonded mortar into the formwork.

Materials for the ceiling in the bathhouse

The dressing room and rest room are warm rooms, therefore it is recommended to use materials with low thermal conductivity - aspen, linden or alder.

For ceiling cladding, it is preferable to use steam rooms wooden lining, as it can withstand high temperatures. Products made from pine or spruce cannot be used in this room; when heated, resin begins to release from this wood. Also, you cannot hem the ceiling with sheets of fiberboard and chipboard, since moisture and high temperature contribute to the release of vapors that can cause harm to human health.

Materials for insulation and vapor barrier

It is advisable to carry out external insulation only if the bathhouse is heated. It’s unlikely that anyone will make such a luxury at their dacha, so we are considering materials for internal insulation unheated bathhouse.

The frame bath does not need to be insulated, since the thermal insulation is built into the structure. In a wooden bathhouse you need to make a crate into which the insulation will be inserted. Other types of baths require insulation using more complex technology.

To complete the work you will need mineral wool, the thickness of which is selected depending on the material used in the construction of the bathhouse and climatic conditions. Usually a layer of at least 50 mm is laid. The insulation can be in the form of mats or in rolls.

As for vapor barrier, it is important to know that it is not waterproofing. Each has its own purpose. Even an inexpensive vapor barrier will fulfill its role, while waterproofing used for other purposes can negate all the work.

What you especially need to pay attention to is not to purchase a fake.

Finishing materials

Since we are talking about a bathhouse in the country, we will not talk about luxurious types of decoration. The best option There will be the use of wood: lining or similar facing materials.

As for exterior finishing, it can be any material that is used for cladding houses. If the bathhouse is made of rounded logs, then it would be unreasonable to cover the already beautiful facade with something else.

Construction of a bathhouse

Now let's look at how you can build a bathhouse in your country house with your own hands. It is clear that the work will be easier to complete with an assistant, who may be one of the family members. At the initial stage of work, some tasks can be given to children. Of course, they will not do everything and not as quickly as we would like, but if they feel that they are needed, then they will then be more careful about the bathhouse built with their participation.

But let’s be realistic, small children will help a little, and if you build alone, it will be a long-term construction, especially since some work simply cannot be completed alone. As you read the article, you will see when and how many assistants may be needed - this will help you plan everything.

So, the plan has been chosen, the location has been decided, now let’s start marking the area. To do this, you need to transfer the outline of the bathhouse to the area in accordance with the scale specified in the project. In the place where the corner of the building will be located, a long peg (or reinforcement) is driven in, and the lengths of two walls located at an angle of 90° are measured from it. The next pegs are hammered in there, and the distances of other walls are measured from them. Finally, the last, fourth peg is driven in.

Now that there is a designated perimeter of the future building, you need to check how straight the corners are. To do this, you need to check along the axes - measure the distance from one peg to another. The received data must match. If this is not the case, then the plane must be shifted, “shortening” the longest axis. After this, you will need to check not only the axes, but also other dimensions, and, if necessary, adjust again.

If the foundation is strip, then a small discrepancy can be left, but for a pile or column foundation, the markings must be very accurately done.

So we designated the dimensions of the bathhouse in accordance with the design data. Further marking is carried out depending on what the foundation will be. More details about this can be found in the table.

Where is marking used and how is it done?

Slab foundation

Due to its high cost, this type of foundation is done only in cases where it cannot be done without. The markings are made according to the dimensions of the building or a little larger when it is necessary for the foundation to be wider and longer than the bathhouse.

Shallow strip foundation

A very common type of foundation. Relatively inexpensive and durable. The marking is carried out in such a way that the concrete-filled tape runs along the perimeter of the building and under the partitions.

Columnar foundation

This type of foundation can also often be found. Mainly used for mounting on it wooden buildings. Depending on the dimensions of the bath, markings are carried out according to the number of supports being manufactured.

Screw foundation

It is believed that this type of foundation is new, but this is an erroneous conclusion made on the basis of the fact that it has recently begun to be used in civil engineering. The screw foundation has stood the test of time, since the military began to use it long ago. The advantage of installing a foundation on screw piles is the speed and simplicity of its installation. The second advantage is that there is no need to carry out excavation work, so the site will remain clean. In addition, with its help you can build a bathhouse even on a site that has a significant slope.

The marking is done according to the number of piles and no deviation to the side is allowed.

Weigh the pros and cons, and then make your final decision regarding the choice of foundation type.

Pouring the foundation

Manufacturing of shallow strip foundation acceptable under the following conditions:

1. The soil on the site is dry and non-flowing.
2. Level groundwater quite low.
3. IN winter period The frosts are not very severe.
4. The buildings are not heavy.

Don't try to guess the type of foundation for a heavy structure. If you are not sure, then invite specialists who, after performing the appropriate checks, will give an accurate answer.

Let's start with the simpler and most often made shallow foundation for a bathhouse.

• We have the external markings, now we need to complete the internal ones, taking into account that the width of the foundation must be at least 50 cm, and must protrude beyond the building by 5-10 cm on each side. Therefore, if the bathhouse is 3x4 m, then the largest size along the outer perimeter will be 3.2x4.2 m.
• It is important to take into account the installation location of the stove and at the same time make a foundation for it.
• For convenience, you need to install wooden structures similar to benches in the corners. They need to be aligned in the same plane according to the height of the future formwork and a measuring cord should be attached to them. How to do this is shown in the illustration.

For strip foundations, markings are performed along both the external and internal contours

• You need to remove the fertile top layer of soil and put it aside, then dig a trench, the clay from which can then be used as bedding.
• As for the depth of the trench, in some cases it can be 35 cm. Much depends on the depth of freezing and the soil itself. You need to get to the bottom of the solid clay layer and under no circumstances stop on the ground. Therefore, most often the depth is within the range of 50–60 cm.
• The bottom of the trench must be leveled by checking its horizontalness with a level.
• Now it’s time for the sand bedding. You need to pour a layer of sand at least 15 cm thick inside the trench, moisten it with water and compact it well. For this, it would be more convenient to use a vibrating rammer, but you can also do it manually, using a heavy block with handles nailed to it.
• The next layer is filled with crushed stone of the middle fraction and is also carefully compacted.
• Now it’s the turn of the formwork, the height of which should reach the stretched cord. It can be made from scrap materials or timber harvested for other purposes, since this temporary structure will be dismantled shortly after the foundation is poured. The finished shields must be installed along the trench and secured well, otherwise the poured concrete may move them out of place.

The formwork must be securely fastened. You can also immediately insert the sleeve to conduct communications later

• In order not to stain the boards, and to prevent concrete from leaking out through the cracks, the formwork is covered from the inside with plastic film, which must be secured with a stapler or thin nails.
• Now you need to make a frame from metal or plastic fittings, fastened with binding wire.

You can perform all calculations in our online calculator.

• The manufactured frame should not reach the edges by 5 cm. It must be carefully lowered into the trench so as not to tear the film protecting the formwork. To raise the frame above the bedding, you need to place pieces of granite under it, since, unlike brick, it will not crumble when exposed to moisture.
• If any communications will pass through the foundation, then you need to leave holes for them, which will help with sleeves, as done in the photo above. The same applies to the manufacture of products.
• Plan your time so that you can pour the foundation with concrete in a day, since breaks are not allowed here - then the tape will not be monolithic. It is convenient to deliver the concrete with a mixer and pour it directly from it, otherwise it will have to be mixed in a concrete mixer, on the basis that you will need 1 bucket of M400 cement, 3 sand, and 5 buckets of crushed stone (or gravel).
• The foundation poured with concrete should be compacted with a vibrator or pinned. After shrinkage, you need to add a little concrete and level the site. If you are making a foundation for a wooden house, then you need to fix the foundation bolts in the uncured concrete.
• No earlier than a week later the formwork can be removed.

It should be remembered that the concrete has not yet reached its full strength, so it must be handled with care or wait 28 days, and only then build a bathhouse.

Wall masonry

When building a bathhouse from blocks, stone or brick, you need to level the foundation with cement-sand mortar and lay roofing felt on it, folded in half. Masonry starts from the corners. Having installed the first blocks on the cement-sand mortar, you need to make sure that they are in the same plane and only after that a string is stretched along the upper outer edge, which serves as a guide for laying a whole series of building materials.

When laying the next row masonry mixture may differ: a wall of brick and shell rock is built using cement-sand mortar, while mixtures recommended by the manufacturer are used for laying lightweight blocks.

Having installed the lintels above the doors and windows, you need to install the formwork on top and make an armored belt, securing the foundation bolts in it for subsequent fastening of the Mauerlat board. After the concrete has hardened, it will be possible to begin making the roof.

Construction of a bath frame

The basis of such a bathhouse is a wooden frame, which is insulated and sheathed with various types of finishing materials. You need to choose high-quality materials and follow the sequence of their installation.

To make the frame, you will need boards made of well-dried larch, aspen or linden, because this wood has low thermal conductivity. The manufactured shields will be resistant to deformation.

On the foundation, a lower frame frame is made from 100×100 mm timber. At the ends of the bars you need to make cuts half the thickness and fasten them together with self-tapping screws. If 50×100 mm bars are used, then the frame can be assembled end-to-end using metal corners. The dimensions of the bar used depend on the type of foundation, design and size of the bathhouse.

Making a base for a frame bath

• At the next stage, the end trim board is installed, and the floor joists are attached right next to it. A timber of 50×100 mm is used.
• On the opposite side, the logs are cut so that a second end trim board can be installed.
• The logs need to be arranged so that the prepared insulation becomes closely between them, then the end trim boards are nailed.
• The wall frame is assembled from 50×100 mm timber, and then installed in place, all parts are fastened together single design.

To ensure vapor barrier of a frame bath, you need to use a vapor barrier film, which will avoid the accumulation of moisture inside the frame. Mineral wool or fiberglass is used as thermal insulation material. They are able to provide a high level of sealing without disturbing natural air exchange.

It is preferable to carry out insulation and wall cladding after installation of the roof. This approach will protect the wood and insulation from getting wet.

Concrete floor installation with wood flooring

If in a frame bath all that remains is to insulate the floor and lay floorboard, then for other buildings you will have to work harder - you need to install joists, make a subfloor, fix a vapor barrier, lay insulation, perform waterproofing, lay a floorboard, which will have to be replaced in a few years. Considering that the dacha at the dacha will not be thoroughly dried due to lack of time for this, because after the weekend you will need to quickly leave for the city, then if there is such an opportunity, it would be preferable to make a concrete floor and cover it with tiles. They stack on it wooden boards, which can be taken out to dry in the barn and safely go home.

Wooden floor with insulation

It is clear that for a frame and other structure installed on a columnar or pile foundation, acceptable only wooden floor with insulation. This process is described in more detail in the next two videos.

Roof construction

Above any bathhouse there should be reliable roof, but the options for creating it may be different. In any case, you need to lay waterproofing and then thermal insulation, think about the type of roof and the choice of suitable roofing material. Without waterproofing, steam will easily penetrate into the attic, and, settling on beams and rafters, will contribute to their rapid destruction. In addition, the condensation formed on the roofing material will begin to flow onto the insulation, which will affect the properties and durability of the latter.

The type of terrain has a great influence on the choice of roofing type, since it is necessary to take into account technical parameters buildings.

• So, in a holiday village, especially when it is located among tall trees, you can safely make a high gable roof.
• If the dacha is located in a steppe zone, blown by all the winds, then the slope for the roof should be minimal.
• For small bathhouses and light snow loads, the roof can be made pitched. The same roof is most often made on a bathhouse attached to the house.

Interior and exterior decoration

Although wood is most often used for interior decoration, not all wood is suitable for this purpose. It is necessary to choose the right material, especially for a steam room, in which high humidity creates a high temperature. It should be said right away that pine lumber, as well as fiberboard, chipboard and linoleum, cannot be used to decorate this room. Therefore, you need to purchase lining made of larch or linden.

As for other rooms, the conditions there are not so extreme, and therefore there are no such high requirements for the material used - what cannot be used in a steam room is perfect for a relaxation room and dressing room. Pine lining in the dressing room will exude a pleasant aroma and create a feeling of comfort.

Wood finishing and brick bath clapboard is performed almost identically. First, the sheathing is attached to the wall, and then the lining is attached to it. An exception is the steam room, in which there should be heat-reflecting foil under the lathing.

Exterior finishing is done not only to make the bathhouse beautiful, but also to protect it.

All you have to do is choose the appropriate material and finish the facade.

Ventilation in the bath

Sometimes there is also an opinion that good ventilation there is no need in the steam room, since all the heat comes out through it, and it is made very weak, or it is absent altogether. But there is another extreme, when the ventilation process is not controlled, and heat evaporates from the bathhouse. It is very hot in such a steam room at the top, and your feet are cold.

In fact, during bathing procedures, the air in the room should be renewed 2-3 times per hour, but this is not enough, since ventilation must be done correctly. Usually the inlet is located below near the boiler, and the exhaust under the ceiling on the opposite side. While the steam room is warming up, the exhaust window is closed. Then it opens and warm air begins to quickly leave the room. As a result, the steam room becomes cool and uncomfortable. You can make ventilation, as in the diagram.

Air circulation diagram in the steam room

This device allows you to hold back warm air under the ceiling, and half-cooled air comes out through the hole located below (B), so it will be comfortable in the steam room. When you need to thoroughly ventilate the steam room, the top ventilation hole (A) opens.

In addition to the steam room, ventilation is necessary in every room of the bathhouse. In order not to waste precious heat, you can make it possible to close the ventilation holes during those hours when there is no need for ventilation.

You can make the canopy and all the furniture for a country bathhouse yourself. If you don’t want to make anything else, then there are many offers online for selling everything you need for your garden.

If you really want to save on furniture, you can review old stocks. Maybe there is something that needs repair, but you just can’t get around to it? After a little restoration, such furniture can last for a considerable period. The main requirement is not to use furniture made of chipboard, as this material will deteriorate very quickly from high humidity.

Bathhouse plan 6x7.2 m

6x6 m

5x4 m

4x4 m

3x5 m

3x3 m

Photo: original baths

Do-it-yourself bathhouse in the country - photos, diagrams, drawings, video

Find out how to build a bathhouse at your dacha with your own hands. The article describes several types of baths that can be built in the country.

We build a bathhouse at the dacha with our own hands

A bathhouse at the dacha is one of the best places to relax. A bathhouse at the dacha is a real outlet after a hard day at work. It can also be an alternative to ordinary relaxation at the dacha with barbecue and soft drinks. But, besides, this is the best option to get yourself in order and relax thoroughly.

Many of us use the sauna for different cases. For some, it’s a Saturday tradition; for other people, it’s a reason to gather a group of friends and brightly end a difficult week. But, despite the position, a bathhouse at the dacha is a real miracle, and that is why almost every summer resident simply dreams of such a structure.

There are several ways to build a bathhouse at your dacha - by turning to specialists who offer a wide variety of projects, or on your own, trying to save money and get your teeth into a new business. By and large, for experienced summer residents who build verandas and terraces with their own hands, build gazebos and canopies, this is not so difficult, but if you take on construction for the first time, serious problems may arise. It is worth solving them first, having studied not only bathhouse options, designs and construction methods, but also having studied the main stages of the construction process.

Choosing the type of structure for the bathhouse

Depending on the region, the cost of materials, as well as personal requirements, it is necessary to select the main construction material. It can be brick or wood, as the most popular building materials.

The characteristics of baths made of wood or brick are also important, because the materials differ in quality and properties, reliability and durability, and ease of use.

It often happens that a bathhouse is built on the basis of already finished building, in which a room is simply allocated for a steam room and wash room. Then things will be much simpler. But it also happens that construction takes place from scratch, and then we are faced with the task of studying absolutely all stages of construction - site selection, construction plan, general design and estimate, foundation and wall forcing, exterior and interior decoration, other arrangement and decoration work .

We understand perfectly well that after reading our article it will be quite difficult to immediately pick up a hammer and drive out the bathhouse in three days. summer cottage. But we will try to bring you as close to the process as possible and explain all its subtleties so that such work becomes much easier for you!

Choosing the best place for a bathhouse

Thanks to communicating with people who have built more than one bathhouse during their lives, and also continue to do this business now, we learned a lot interesting facts which we share with you. So, initially we will talk about where it is best to build a bathhouse on a summer cottage:

• You should not build a bathhouse next to a pond, in close proximity to water, as the building may be flooded by floods;
• An excellent option is an extension to a residential building or any other building - saving materials and energy savings;
• It is most correct to build a bathhouse in the backyard, where there are no drafts, in the silence of the trees;
• Be sure to think about waterproofing, vapor barrier and ventilation at the initial stages of construction, because the bathhouse tends to create unpleasant aromas if built incorrectly or not provided with proper care;
• Do not start construction near a road or field - there is no need for dust in interior damp areas;
• The south side is the most suitable for construction;
• Think about fire safety, since the risk of unpleasant situations here is quite high;
• If possible, start construction away from the neighboring territory. This way you will not observe envious or judgmental glances on yourself, and provoke scandals due to noisy recreation or the aromas of the bathhouse;
• Carry out construction in a place remote from the well or well, at least 15-20 m.

How to avoid mistakes during construction

No matter how colorfully you plan the construction or describe the future result, upon completion you will not like something. This is a 100% guarantee, because there is no ideal in our world. But there is always an opportunity to minimize all construction and decorative errors that lead to disappointment. Therefore, we recommend that you carefully consider the following:

• Do not forget about proper planning of internal areas. It is believed that a bathhouse for 2-3 people should be about 10 m2;
• The optimal height of the interior is 2-2.2 m. If lower, then it is quite inconvenient; if higher, there is irrational consumption of coolants and a long warm-up time;
• Try to place the doors in the bathhouse on the south side, and the windows on the west or southwest;
• It is advisable to make windows small, as, in principle, doors. If options are possible with windows, then it is advisable to make doors no more than 70 cm wide and no more than 180 cm high. You will also need high threshold. Of course, this creates some inconvenience, but it seriously reduces heat loss;
• Choose materials for construction not only according to aesthetics, but give preference lightweight materials with high energy saving ability;
• Regardless of construction materials, pay maximum attention to safety and quality equipment;
• Take your choice of wood seriously. interior design, do not use resinous woods.

What to build a bathhouse from

On at the moment There are many options from which to choose. But if you pay attention to latest technologies rapid construction, then you won’t be able to save money here. Of course, a frame bathhouse can be erected in just a few days, but it will also cost a pretty penny. Therefore, it is worth looking for an option that is more acceptable, for many of us in general, from used materials, for example, brick or cinder block. And why not, because such a building will easily last for several decades...

In fact, now you can build from anything, as long as the requirements and budget are met, and the characteristics of the future building are combined with your opinion about the new bathhouse.

Do-it-yourself bathhouse in the country

Unfortunately, not everyone has the opportunity to build a bathhouse, and therefore many of our readers who decide to this process, will begin it with intermediate stages, for example, with the finishing of an already finished building and interior premises. Therefore, today we will not talk about how to build a bathhouse from timber or erect a frame bathhouse, but will simply consider the most acceptable option for everyone, made of brick or cinder block.

We have already discussed the stages of construction in a short list, but now we need to consider each of them in detail!

Having chosen the right place for the site, clearing it of debris and any overgrowth, we dig a trench for pouring the strip foundation. Of course, you can use a columnar foundation under a beam or log, but it is better to fill it under a brick.

As in any standard country house construction, when we talked about gazebos, sheds and other structures, you need to correctly calculate the parameters of the foundation. In addition, you need to create all the necessary layers of the cushion, from gravel and sand, select a material for reinforcement, perhaps even fiberglass reinforcement.

When the trench for the foundation is ready and reinforcement has been installed inside, pour concrete and let it settle for several days. Naturally, it is better to fill it higher, arranging the formwork 20-30 cm above the ground surface, so that you do not have to start laying in direct contact with the ground.

It is also worth taking care of waterproofing, which can be coated or made of roofing felt, the old fashioned way. Sometimes film is also used, but it all depends strictly on the type of building.

Don’t forget about the utilities for the bathhouse, which can be brought inside before pouring the foundation or already during the process of laying the walls.

Walling

Depending on the material and type of masonry, you should choose a solution, as well as the speed of work. The whole point is that the masonry cannot be done too quickly, as the brick may float and the work will stop. Therefore, we immediately determine whether we are building with brick or half-brick, or maybe even choose cinder block or aerated concrete.

We begin laying carefully, in accordance with the work plan and project, and move upward, constantly using a level and plumb lines. Don’t forget about the placement of windows and doors, cover the openings with posts, and do the jointing.

At the initial stage of masonry, you can lay joists under the floor and work with communications.

Roof structure

When external and interior walls kicked out, the quality of work has been checked and you are ready to continue, you need to move on to installing the roof.

The first thing you need is to knock the base of the roof into a single structure and install rafters on it; by the way, this can also be done ready-made. When this stage is completed, you can proceed to the installation of the sheathing.

Depending on what kind of ceiling you installed in the bathhouse, you should immediately think about the chimney for the stove. Perhaps the outlet will be through the wall, but do not forget about the possibility of outlet through the ceiling and roof, which means that holes for the chimney will be needed.

Afterwards, we move on to the installation of the roof, which we once talked about in some detail. Roofing materials can be very different, from the same slate to expensive tiles. But here we focus on weight, reliability, fire safety and many other factors that are fashionable and necessary today.

Upon completion of the roofing work, we go downstairs, because now we need to finish everything with the floor.

There are no problems with the floor, but there are many disputes about its insulation. As we found out, it is also necessary to insulate the base with inside to get the best energy saving performance and a truly warm and dry floor.

To do this, we carry out insulation with mineral wool and waterproofing along the basement, brick or raised foundation. Next, we fill the floor under the washing room, not forgetting about the water supply and sewerage pipes, and do dry backfilling under the floor in the remaining rooms. You can use expanded clay for this.

Now all that remains is to lay a layer of insulation and vapor barrier, make a small gap, literally 1-2 cm, and cover the board.

Interior and exterior decoration

We will start with thermal insulation, since this stage is very important for a bathhouse. Many people insulate from the outside, but why should we heat a cold brick if the same layer of insulation can be laid on the inside. Therefore, the outside is decorated with decorative finishing or additional insulation with polystyrene foam, and the inside is required to be insulated with mineral wool.

It is done as follows - the walls are covered with waterproofing, applied wooden sheathing, then a layer of mineral wool and vapor barrier are fixed on the surface. Most often, this is aluminum foil, on top of which the finishing occurs.

Now the ceilings. There should also be no difficulties here, since the process is identical to insulation bath walls. But the ceiling is also insulated in the attic, where fiberglass is laid between the beams. Expanded clay is poured on top or mineral wool is laid, a layer of vapor barrier and a rough finish. It is also possible cement screed, depending on the flooring production technology.

The interior decoration of the bathhouses is done with lining, the exterior - with any material whose design is most interesting to you. This can be siding, plaster and painting, composite materials, facing brick and so on.

During finishing, it is necessary to install the stove, make a safe chimney outlet, and seal all openings on the outlets as much as possible. We will talk more about sauna stoves in the future!

Installation of windows and doors

This stage will not be a difficult test for you, since we have already told you how to install windows in a dacha, and we have also mentioned doors more than once. Just try to choose high-quality materials and carry out the installation correctly, because the energy saving of the interior depends on this.

You can choose wooden or metal-plastic doors and windows, order glass doors for the sauna, but you yourself understand that it is in wood that everything will be the most natural and warm!

Arrangement of a country bath

We do not undertake to decide for you, since harmony and compliance with your taste in this matter are paramount, and you can only create such an effect yourself. Therefore, try to approach the design correctly, furnish the room for relaxation, and supply the bathhouse with everything necessary - decor and accessories. We recommend that you learn about budget option baths for a summer residence.

Don’t forget that the bathhouse needs light. Here we recommend that you contact a qualified electrician who will carry out the wiring and installation in accordance with all the requirements of wet rooms. You can also call a plumber to check your own work, because the water supply to the bathhouse and sewerage system are no less important!

Each stage of building a bathhouse at the dacha is complex in its own way. Naturally, you can re-read many interesting articles, watch lessons, or contact specialists directly for minimal help. But here you must understand that only personal desire will allow you to start and complete the project. If it’s just an idea that seems simple and feasible to you in a couple of days, it’s better not to take on the process. Save your energy, time and money, draw up an accurate and correct project, and only then start working. Well, when you have questions on this topic, DachaDecor.ru specialists will be happy to answer them. We recommend that you learn how to choose a stove for a sauna.

We build a bathhouse at the dacha with our own hands

A bathhouse in the country is a real outlet after a hard day at work. It can also be an alternative to ordinary relaxation at the dacha with barbecue and soft drinks. But, besides, this is the best option to get yourself in order and relax thoroughly.