Bath complex with their own hands. Do-it-yourself bathhouse in the country photo projects. Step-by-step instruction. Video example of the construction of a bath from a monolithic wood concrete

- This is a difficult, but quite feasible undertaking. First of all, the owner must choose the right material for the construction of the bath.

Choosing a place to build a bath

Start with a choice suitable place for the location of the building. The following recommendations will help you with this:

Before starting any construction activities, prepare a bath project.

Determine the optimal size of the structure. One vacationer should have at least 5 m2 of total area the buildings. For example, if you are building a bathhouse for 4 people, its area must be at least 20 m2.

The standard bath consists of a steam room, a washing department, a dressing room and a rest room. Set the dimensions and features of the spatial placement of the listed premises that are convenient for you.

Prepare the following drawings:

You can make all these drawings yourself or find them in an open source. In general, the projects of log baths remain almost the same. If you have the desire and sufficient budget, order the preparation of drawings by a professional.

Materials for building a bath

To build a bath from a bar, you will need a whole set of different materials and devices, namely:

• beam. Traditionally, a material with a section of 150x150 mm is used;

  

• floor boards. The best way- four-meter edged board 15x5 cm;

  

• ceiling boards. Usually used lining with a width of 10 cm and a thickness of 2 cm;

  

• finishing materials interior spaces. Lining is perfect;

  

• vapor barrier material. The best option is modern vapor barrier films;

  

• waterproofing material. If possible, use penofol. Polyethylene film is also suitable;

  

• ceiling heater. Mineral wool materials are well suited;

  

• sheet asbestos. With it, you isolate the wooden elements of the building from high temperature. Insulation sheets must be fixed to the walls near the sauna stove. Also, wooden elements installed in close proximity to the chimney need insulation;

  

• bulk materials for arrangement. The set is standard: cement, sand and gravel;

  

• material for finishing the roof. Focus on your preferences. The main thing is that the roof of the bath looks good surrounded by the roofs of other buildings on the site;
  
  

  

• insulation for interventional space. Use jute. Tow and moss are also suitable.

  

It is best to start building a bath in the spring, because. after the completion of the main activities, the wood will need to be left for a six-month "wintering". During this time, the material will dry and give the required shrinkage.

Buy cement immediately before construction begins.

Bath construction guide

The work is carried out in stages - from preparation construction site before equipping the bath with various accessories.

First stage - Site preparation

Clear construction site from all sorts of debris, shrubs, large roots, and in general everything that can interfere with the construction of the foundation.

The second stage - Pouring the foundation

Attach the batten boards to the rafters. Lay hydro, heat and vapor barrier materials, the insulation of the bath is one of the most important elements of its construction, the quality of the built bath will directly depend on this. Install your chosen roof finish.

Prices for various types of timber

Fourth stage - Interior fittings

Start by arranging the necessary communications.

You should take care of the installation even at the stage of creating the foundation. To do this, create a pit outside the bathhouse either drainage well, connected to the bath by a pipe laid with a slope.

After completing the arrangement of the sewer, make the floor. It can be concrete or wood. Concrete floors are usually tiled. This coating is more durable.

The wooden floor is traditionally made leaky. The technology is extremely simple: logs are installed, floor boards are nailed to them with some clearance. You can also create a small hatch for drains and close it with a perforated grate. The floor in this case should be made with some slope. As a result, moisture from the floor will enter the hatch, and from there it will be discharged through a pipe into a drainage well or pit.

In order for the wood to last as long as possible, carefully ventilate the bath after each visit.

Insulate the ceiling and walls of the building using suitable moisture, heat and vapor barrier materials. Install doors and windows. Connect plumbing and electricity to the bath. Install the necessary electrical appliances.

Prices for thermal insulation materials

Thermal insulation materials

Fifth stage - Furnace and shelves

Choose the design of the shelves at your discretion. They are built in the same order: first, a support frame is mounted from a strong beam, after which boards are nailed to the supports.

The oven is also up to you. You can lay out a traditional one, install a convenient metal unit or a modern electric heater.

Heavy furnaces require the mandatory arrangement of an individual foundation. At this point, everything is also defined in separately taking into account the characteristics of a particular furnace.

Prices for various types of stones for furnaces

Stones for stoves

Step Six - Optional Accessories

In conclusion, you will only have to supplement your country bath with various kinds of accessories, namely:

• brooms;
• wooden mug for adding water;
• buckets;
• various kinds of wooden gratings, etc.

The internal arrangement of the additional premises of the bath is at your discretion.

Successful work!

Prices for bath and sauna accessories

Bath and sauna accessories

Video - Do-it-yourself bathhouse in the country

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If you have your own piece of land, then one of the objects can be a do-it-yourself bath. Projects, photos and features of construction work are presented on our website. For construction, you can choose any interesting option or project from our review.

So, in order to build a quality building, you need to consider the following points:

• pick the perfect project
• think over each stage of work;
• purchase suitable material;
• plan all communications;
• important point is the interior decoration.

A beautiful bath on the site can be not only a functional building, but also luxurious element landscape design

To make the bath correctly and correctly choose the place of its placement, you need to adhere to all the norms of SNiP. Important attention should be paid to the material for the construction of the building. The choice of location must be made taking into account certain distances in relation to other objects.

Before building a bath, consider the features of the site: design, climatic conditions and soil characteristics features of the local landscape area and soil properties. If the territory is uneven, then it is better to carry out construction on elevated terrain, since this will ensure optimal water flow. Do not install such a building on sandy soil. In any case, the foundation should be strengthened. The harder the soil layer, the better. Most often, the construction of such buildings is planned on the leeward side of the main buildings. This placement protects from heavy rainfall.

• often used and budget wood concrete. At the same time, the building is warm and durable.

Bath from a bar

How to build such buildings depends on the material options. Projects can be carried out from the following materials:

• natural wood;
• edged timber;
• glued beam;
• profiled timber;
• rounded log.

There are several ways to build a bath with your own hands. A simple version can be seen in the video:

Most often, construction is carried out with the help of rounded logs and timber. A log bath is a simpler option than rounded logs. is a cheaper material than logs. The construction of the timber is carried out using.

When deciding how to make a building out of timber, you must follow some rules. Such construction refers to light structures, so you can use a shallow or shallow foundation.

How to properly and what kind of foundation to make depends on the type of soil. For clay and marshy soil, the columnar option is not suitable. In this case, or are used.

Before deciding how to lay the timber, it is necessary to carry out waterproofing. To do this, a layer is distributed on the surface of the foundation, and a sheet of roofing material on top. Then the second layer is applied. And the boards adjacent to the foundation are treated with antiseptic solutions. So we build a bath, regardless of whether it is small or large. A common version of construction work is a small bath from a half-beam.

When deciding how to build a sauna yourself, you must first choose quality wood. The material is most often harvested from December to March. Blanks 150×150 or 100×150 are made from felled trees. At the same time, they must be cleaned of bark. It is important to inspect the material before construction work. It should not show signs of decay or cracks. The wood should be smooth and even. When choosing bars, drawings and dimensions must be prepared in advance. In this case, the purpose of the material is important, for example, a floor made of edged boards. At self erection need to know how step by step construction and ways of connecting logs 3x4 or 4x4.

It is important to know how to install 50x150 boards on edge, as well as options for increasing the length. There are such connection options as in the paw and in the oblo. For a structure made of profiled timber, the oblo method is suitable, in which the connection is made when creating lock grooves.

Frame bath in the country

Consider a variety of projects on . The walls are lattice structures. For the walls you will need:

How to build such a structure depends on the main project. This construction technology has many advantages. This is a high installation speed and low labor intensity. According to the reviews - this is an economical construction. The finished building is characterized by rapid heating of the premises. A mini bath or even a 4x6 or 6x6 design does not require prolonged shrinkage. Also exists big choice materials, both for internal and for exterior finish. Can be used different option foundations, for example, tape or on piles.

How to make such a design is demonstrated by a photo report, where the photo shows a detailed diagram and features of the construction of such buildings. Such structures also have certain disadvantages. First of all, careful thermal insulation of such structures is required. Also, such structures have a short service life. Depending on the projects: 3×4, 2×4 or 3×5, drawings are selected. Finished project must contain working drawings with the correct assembly of the structure, with engineering communications and material specification.

We build a bath with our own hands: a brief description of the stages of construction

Any construction of a bath in the country requires careful planning. Before starting construction, it is necessary to mark the site. To do this, you need a project, according to which marks are made on the ground. Where to start marking out the dimensions depends on where the corner of the building is located. This place is reporting from scratch. In this case, a peg is hammered, and the lengths of the sides are measured from it. Then compact pegs are installed and other walls are also measured.

The design of the bath and the dimensions are indicated in accordance with the project data. After that, the markup is made depending on the . When building a bath with your own hands from stone, brick or blocks, you need to level the foundation. At the same time, the roofing material is laid, and then on top.

How to build a building will depend on what material it will be built from - from boards or from. Specialists can show installation features. Useful videos can be found on YouTube.

If brickwork is used, it should start at the corners. At the same time, the first blocks are placed on the cement mortar. They must be in the same plane. If you don't know how to do this correctly, use a twine as a guide.

In the video below you can see a phased demonstration of construction work:

After installing the jumpers above the windows or doors, it is mounted, and then an armored belt is made. Foundation bolts are attached to this part. A simple or panel structure involves the construction of a wood frame. This element is sheathed and insulated various kinds finishing materials. To make the frame, boards made of aspen, linden or larch are used, since these options are characterized by low.

Wooden strapping from a bar is made on the foundation. At the same time, cuts are made at the ends of the bars and fastened to each other with self-tapping screws. For small bars, metal corners are used.

We note the main stages in the manufacture of the frame base:

Any sauna is exposed high humidity, so the steam room is treated with a vapor barrier film. This will protect against the accumulation of moisture from the inside. Fiberglass or mineral wool can be used as a heat-insulating material. Such options provide an excellent level of sealing. Insulation and wall cladding is carried out after the installation of the roof. This approach will protect wood and insulation materials from getting wet.

Particular attention should be paid. Before choosing equipment for a bath, it is necessary to complete the construction work. The finished building is equipped with furniture and all necessary equipment. A rustic bath can be made from various materials, but not from slabs.

Do-it-yourself foundation for a bath: step by step instructions

How to build bath building depends on the type of foundation used. It is worth noting the following options:

• slab foundation is not often done. It is suitable for massive and complex buildings. The markup is made according to the dimensions of the building or a little more;
• you can make a strip foundation for a 4 × 4 bath with your own hands. In this case, the marking is done so that the tape runs along the perimeter of the building;
• columnar is used for mounting wooden structures. Depending on the dimensions 3×4, 3×5 or 3×6, the marking is made according to the number of supports;
• . The advantage of this option is the ease of installation. With its help, installation on the foundation is possible even with an inclined section. Marking is carried out according to the number of piles.

It is even possible to build without a foundation. A shallow strip foundation can be used when the soil is hard and dry and the level is low. groundwater and the buildings are not very heavy. The shallow version is the simplest. Here are the main points to consider:

How the screw foundation is mounted can be seen in the video below:

Bath with a shower in the country: how to bring and drain water

There are different ways to equip a shower inside the bath with your own hands. There is even a dedicated step-by-step guide. The photo report demonstrates different options for installing a shower. The easiest option for cooling is to mount a simple wooden bucket on the wall. Water can be poured through water pipe with a faucet. In this case, no special heating is required. In the photo below you can see a shower with hydromassage jets. In this case, it is necessary to consider water heating, as well as pressure using pumping equipment.

The shower does not require a large area, it is enough to allocate a little space in the dressing room. Necessarily . It is necessary to equip the drain for the bath. Also inside the bath you can do and Summer shower. In this case, you do not need to equip a separate booth in the yard. Even in an already built building, you can find a corner for a washing room. But at the same time, you will need to build a drain in the bath.

Do-it-yourself instructions for building a bathhouse roof

When building a bath, you need to figure out how to mount the roof. The stages of such construction can be seen below:

Options for creating a roof may be different, but in any case, you need to consider waterproofing and thermal insulation. Without waterproofing, steam will pass into the attic, and settle on the rafters and beams. In this case, condensate can drain onto the insulation, which will affect the durability of the material. It is important to take into account some features of the buildings:

Organization of the internal equipment of the bath in the country

An important point is the arrangement of the interior. A variety of indoor photos will help you decide how to make the interior inside. Any projects should start with the installation. This design will reduce the concentration of hot air.

After the construction is completed, it is also done outside with your own hands. Another important point is . With insufficient ventilation, electrical heating will cause a decrease in oxygen levels.

It is necessary to remember about constant temperature control. Cannot be installed mercury thermometer. Better buy a bath thermometer. To control the humidity is used -.

special attention deserves finishing inside. The most suitable material is wood. A good solution and an economy option is lining. Wall decoration should be done in pastel colors. It is worth considering the floor in the bath.

Step-by-step instruction involves steps finishing works, as well as the layout of lighting and ventilation. should be of good quality. Also consider bathroom accessories. The step-by-step guide also provides for the arrangement of good soundproofing.

Article

Rest without a bath is not a rest. Replace bath with suburban area neither outdoor shower nor bathing can. Of course, if the budget is very limited, you should not aim at building a two-story bath complex with swimming pool. But build a small cozy bath on a suburban area is possible with minimal investment.

In this article, we will look at how a budget bath is built with our own hands, reveal the secrets of choosing and saving building materials, and tell you how to prevent missteps and mistakes for novice craftsmen.

The most popular materials for building baths are wood, bricks and blocks. wooden bath can be in the form of a log house or frame.

Wood

Wood - classical material for building baths. Wood is valued for its environmental friendliness and ease of processing. Wooden baths warm up quickly, and essential resins released into the air have a positive effect on the well-being of visitors.

However, wood is far from ideal for construction. To make the walls of the bath smooth, you need to choose quality timber or log. Do not forget about shrinkage. The better the wood is dried, the lower the percentage of shrinkage and the risk that the log house will “lead”.

It is important to be able to work with an ax and a saw, to have sufficient physical strength and endurance to cut locks to connect corners, outer and internal walls, overlays. Of course, you can buy a ready-made log house with delivery to the site, but this is associated with additional costs and is not relevant for the construction budget bath. It is best to build at least two people, because alone it is extremely difficult to lay the crowns, especially the top ones.

For the construction of a bath, hardwood, such as linden, is best suited. This material is considered relatively light, therefore, if the geological conditions of the area allow, you can save on the foundation and limit yourself to a lightweight tape option (monolithic or prefabricated).

What else can you save on? For example, on insulation and decoration. If the bath will be used for its intended purpose only in warm time years, there is no need to purchase insulation, battens for lathing, steam and wind insulation, finishing decorative material for the facade of the bath. A tree, if it is thoroughly sanded and coated with a protective impregnation, varnish, is quite aesthetically pleasing and fits perfectly into landscape design private land plots.

In a budget bath, you can save on the organization of a full-fledged sewerage and water supply. Since ancient times, in Russian baths, the floors were made torrential, and water was carried in buckets in advance. Yes, this causes some inconvenience, but it will not spoil the overall pleasant impression of bath procedures.

What can't be saved? Wood is a highly flammable material. It is worth a little oversight, not closing the blower door, as a hot coal that has fallen out will lead to a fire and damage to property. A similar situation is possible in case of neglect of the rules fire safety when installing the furnace and Therefore, in no case should you save on:

• fire and bioprotective impregnation;
• fire cutting;
• materials for floor insulation in front of the firebox and

We strongly do not recommend saving on fasteners. Firstly, the difference will be insignificant, and secondly, low-quality metal hardware will quickly begin to rust, ugly black smudges will appear on the walls. The worst thing that rusted fasteners will lead to is the collapse of building elements due to the loss of nodes of their strength.

It is very important to properly organize ventilation in wooden baths. Even if the bath area is only 4-6 square meters. Visitors are unlikely to enjoy the smell of mustiness and mold, and the owner will not be pleased with rotting floors and walls.

Now more specifically about wood prices in order to roughly calculate construction costs.

*The average cost of building materials is relevant for 2017.

Based on the cost of new lumber, budget bath definitely won't work. The way out of the situation is to buy a used beam at a price of 1,000 rubles per cubic meter or from 80 rubles per 1 piece. Used pallets can also come in handy if they are used correctly.

Bricks and blocks

A bath made of blocks or bricks will undoubtedly be more durable than a wooden one. Yes, and a sudden outbreak of fire is not terrible stone walls. At your taste and discretion, you can build a bath of any size and shape, if only funds and personal time allow.

Brick manufacturers always have a wide range of products from the most different forms, shades, textures. For example, by combining a brick of two different shades during the construction of walls, you can build a bath, which outwardly will be very neat and aesthetic.

On a note! AT brick bath the window can be replaced with glass blocks. They have sufficient light transmission. But in this case, it is important to take care of the arrangement of effective ventilation.

A brick bath warms up longer than a wooden one, and cools down much faster. brick walls need finishing, and this adds cost items to the overall estimate. Used for bricklaying cement-sand mortar, which you can buy ready-made and simply dilute with water in the right proportions, or prepare the mixture yourself and spend less money.

How much will it cost to build a bath from ordinary M100 bricks?

For an example of calculating the cost of masonry, let's take a single brick and laying in one brick (the wall thickness will be 25 cm). Using the table data, we get:

• taking into account mortar joints per 1 sq. m of masonry requires 102 bricks;
• 102 bricks x 6.20 rubles. = 632.4 rubles.

Brick prices

Usually a brick is purchased with a margin of up to 15%, taking into account possible marriage. And to the cost of laying 1 square meter of the wall, you need to add the cost of the mortar. Do not forget that you may need a concrete mixer, grouting, a set of mason's tools, etc.

Foam blocks and gas blocks are materials that are increasingly used for the construction of baths. Their main advantage is the high speed of construction. Disadvantages are similar to bricks.

Blocks are laid with reinforcement of rows, fixation is carried out with special glue or cement-sand mortar.

For the construction of a bath, blocks with dimensions of 200 x 300 x 600 mm are often used. One such block costs from 93 rubles. For internal partitions, blocks of smaller thickness are suitable - 100 or 120 mm and cost from 50 rubles per 1 pc.

The number of blocks in 1 sq. m the following:

• with a wall thickness of 20 cm, in one square meter the walls will be 5.5 blocks (5.5 x 93 = 511 rubles);
• with a wall thickness of 30 cm, there will be 8.33 blocks in one square meter of the wall (8.33 x 93 = 774.69 rubles).

We conclude: for the construction of a budget bath, it is preferable to use not bricks, but blocks of 200 x 300 x 600 mm, construction should be carried out with a wall thickness of 20 cm. 1.4 kg per 1 sq. m of masonry) and do not forget that the blocks are purchased with a margin.

Important! In an effort to save money, you should not sacrifice the reliability and durability of the bath. You can always buy, for example, a used brick for a penny, but there is no guarantee that in the next decade such a brick, and with it the walls of the bath, will not begin to collapse.

A big plus of building a bath from blocks is the high strength of the walls, which is achieved by reinforcing the rows. Provided that the reinforcement is properly made, the walls will not crack. Even during the construction of a budget bath, you should not neglect the margin of safety of the walls, so that in the next few years you will not start doing overhaul baths.

Prices for foam blocks

foam block

Construction of an aerated concrete bath with a brick plinth

We will consider the process of building a bath with dimensions of 6x5 m. This area is enough to equip three main rooms: a rest room or dressing room, a shower room, a steam room. If the free area on the site does not allow the construction of a 6x5 m bath, you can reduce the dimensions to 4x4 m, and divide the interior space into a dressing room and a steam room, without a shower and other amenities.

So, let's begin. Examine your land plot, prepare the site for construction. It is necessary to remove debris, uproot stumps, remove the top layer of soil with grass growing on it, level and compact the site.

In advance, you need to prepare a bath project with the laying order. According to the drawings, it is easier to calculate the amount of building materials and conduct construction.

Make markings on the ground, dig trenches, fill in a shallow strip foundation. Don't forget the perfumes. You can read more about pouring technology.

It is important to carefully level the upper surface of the foundation during the pouring process. If, nevertheless, the base has horizontal deviations, it is necessary to level everything with a cement-sand mortar.

Step 1. We lay waterproofing material on the foundation tape, for example, strips of roofing material.

Prices for roofing material

ruberoid

Step 2 We knead the cement-sand mortar for laying bricks. To prepare the solution, we use the proportions:

• cement M400 - 1 bucket;
• sifted river sand - 2 buckets;
• dishwashing detergent or any similar - from 50 to 100 ml.

Important! We recommend that you first add water and detergent to the concrete mixer or mortar container, then add cement and sand, with constant stirring. The consistency of the finished solution will resemble thick sour cream, and if you run your finger over the mixture, a clear, not blurry mark will remain. Mixing should be carried out from 3 to 5 minutes.

The finished solution is transferred to buckets and transported to the construction site.

Step 3 We begin laying the brick base. We will work from the corners of the bath.

We apply the mortar with a trowel on the brick. We lay the brick at the corner of the foundation (along the outer edge). We put a bubble level on the brick and, if necessary, knock out the brick with the handle of the trowel. Repeat the procedure on the next corner of the bath foundation.

It is important that the bricks laid at the corners are at the same level. To check, we stretch the mooring thread, additionally check the position of the bricks with a water level. We put the second brick on each of the corners perpendicular to the first.

We are laying the basement "in one and a half bricks." At standard sizes bricks, the total width of the base will be 38 cm. This width is made up of one brick length (25 cm) and one brick width (12 cm), 1 cm is a bonding mortar joint.

Spoon out the first outer row. We lay the bricks on the mortar previously applied with a trowel, pressing into the mortar and slightly moving back and forth. We leave a gap between adjacent bricks, into which we add mortar with a trowel. Excess solution is immediately removed with a trowel. We knock out the bricks so that they are all in the same plane (the reference point is a stretched mooring thread). As a result, if you look at the base from the side of the "street", you will see a row laid "in half a brick".

We lay the inner row with a poke towards the future premises of the bath. Next, we lay the masonry according to the ordering scheme, observing the dressing of the seams.

We lay out 2 rows of bricks and proceed to the arrangement of the floor.

Step 4. To equip the floor covering, it is necessary to prepare the beams.

The beams must be fixed in the "nests" of the base to a depth of 10 cm. We measure the width of the interior, add 20 cm, we get the length of the beams. The cross section of the beams can be selected using the table.

*The cross section is indicated in millimeters. The beams are laid on edge. Maximum floor load 400 kg/m 3 .

We cut the roofing material into rectangular pieces 15 cm wide. We wrap the ends of the beams with roofing material, fix it with a construction stapler.

We lay the beams on the ends, observing equal distance between them.

We continue with bricklaying.

We spread two more rows, observing the dressing. We also lay the brick between the beams, sawing it with a grinder if necessary.

The height of a single ordinary brick is 65 mm. Accordingly, two rows of bricks plus two mortar joints in height will be 150 mm, upper surface beams will be flush with the surface of the brickwork.

Fourth row masonry

Recommendation! If the brick is pre-moistened with water (without soaking it), it will not absorb moisture from the solution. The lining will be very strong. The recommendation is relevant for work in hot weather.

Step 5 The basement is built, we proceed to the laying of walls from aerated concrete blocks.

We lay a layer of roofing material on a brick over the entire surface of the external and internal walls of the bath.

We start work again from the corners of the bath. We knead the solution, lay out a layer on top of the roofing material.

The solution is leveled with a notched trowel. Installing the first block.

Similarly, we install the second block on the adjacent corner of the basement. The most difficult thing is to bring both blocks to zero. The check is carried out by the hydraulic level, bubble level, if there laser level better to use it.

Haste is inappropriate here. If necessary, you can remove the block, remove excess solution, or add more solution. The horizontal deviation should not be more than two millimeters.

We lay out the first row of blocks on the solution. If the distance between adjacent blocks does not allow the installation of a whole block, it is necessary to cut with a hacksaw with small teeth. After cutting from the block, we sweep away the dust with a brush.

When laying out the blocks, do not forget about the doorway.

Step 6 We proceed to the reinforcement of the first row of blocks.

We are preparing a set of tools for work in advance.

*Used tools will cost less.

For reinforcement, we use corrugated bars of class A3. Bar diameter 8 mm. Reinforcement of greater thickness is not advisable to take.

Using a manual wall chaser, we cut two grooves for the reinforcement. For convenience, you can draw in advance with a pencil on the surface of the blocks two parallel straight lines along the ruler. At the corners of the bath and at the junctions of the internal partitions with the external walls, the strobes are rounded, parallel.

We clean the surface of the strobe from dust using a damp brush.

We take the reinforcement and put it in the strobes. We bend the reinforcement at the corners. Pay attention that the reinforcement bars are not connected at the corners. The connection of bars is possible at a distance of more than 30 cm from the corners.

We take out the reinforcement from the strobe, put it on the surface of the blocks.

We knead the glue for aerated concrete (the approximate cost for 25 kg is 220 rubles).

Pour water into the bucket, then pour the dry mixture from the bag. We mix the glue with a drill with a mixer attachment at low speeds (up to 800 rpm). The consistency of the glue should be similar to thick sour cream. The glue must not spread.

We fill the strobes with glue. We spread the glue with a spatula. Embed the rebar in the glue. If necessary, add more glue on top of the laid reinforcement so that the surface of the gas blocks is smooth, without recesses or bumps.

Step 7 We proceed to laying the second row of gas blocks. We start traditionally from the corner. Let's start applying glue under the block.

Important! Do not forget about the need for laying blocks with dressing, similar to brickwork "in half a brick". The offset of the upper block relative to the lower one should be from 15 cm to ½ of the block length.

It is most convenient to apply glue with a ladle (trowel). The working width of the trowel must match the width of the block. This will allow you to apply the adhesive quickly and accurately. But sometimes builders use homemade devices, such as in the photo. The main thing is to evenly apply a thin layer of glue over the entire surface of the blocks.

On a note! The applied layer of glue can be continuous, but it is the use of notched trowels or special buckets that can reduce the consumption of glue.

We continue laying blocks of the second row. We check the correctness of the installation of the blocks in two planes - in the vertical and horizontal. If necessary, grind the surfaces of the blocks.

For the convenience of ligation of blocks, you can start laying from half a block. We cut the gas block with a hacksaw. We sweep away the dust with a brush. We apply a thick layer of glue (2-3 mm) to the ends of the block. Installing the block.

We continue laying blocks of the second row. We check the correctness of the installation of the blocks in two planes - in the vertical and horizontal.

Important! If the bath is more than 6 meters high, it is recommended to reinforce every fourth row of masonry.

Prices for cement M600

cement M600

Step 8 We turn to the laying of jumpers, their reinforcement.

There should be reinforced lintels above the window and door openings. The easiest way is to use U-blocks, but this comes at an additional cost.

To save money, you can manually make recesses in ordinary gas blocks. To do this, we make two cuts along the width of the notch on the block with a hacksaw, then we remove the excess material using a chisel and a hammer.

For laying blocks, we make formwork from boards. On the upper part formwork will rest blocks. We fix the horizontal board with props, fasten the elements with ordinary self-tapping screws.

The armored belt should protrude beyond the window and door openings by at least 15 cm. We install the blocks on the formwork. The ends of the blocks are fastened with glue.

Inside the blocks, closer to the outer edge, we lay pieces of EPPS (Penoplex) 50 mm thick.

We start knitting the armo-belt. We use plastic clamps (screeds) for binding. The armored belt consists of four long parallel bars, and every 0.5 m - vertical pieces of reinforcement. In cross section, the armored belt should form a square.

Important! It is impossible to lay the armored belt directly on aerated concrete. Plastic clips must be used. Without clamps, the armoframe will not take right position and will not be filled with concrete mixture on all sides.

We install the frame with clamps and fill it with concrete flush with the edges of the gas blocks. We compact the concrete mixture by piercing with a bar or wooden lath. We level the surface as carefully as possible.

Now you need to make a technical pause and wait until the solution sets. This will take from 10 days to two weeks.

Step 9 So, the concrete in the lintels has frozen, we continue construction. If the height of the walls is insufficient, lay out another row of blocks. In our case, this row will be the final one on the first floor and at the same time will perform the function of an armored belt.

We make the armored belt on the floor using the same technology as the lintels, but with one difference. Now the armored belt will be filled along the entire perimeter of the outer and inner walls. For the sake of economy, we do not use U-blocks, but cut and hollow out solid wall blocks.

1. We lay the entire row of prepared blocks on the glue.

   

   

   

2. We install polystyrene boards. We cut them carefully, along the ruler, so that the edges are even.
3. We knit armoframe.

   

   

4. We put the clamps, put the frame inside the blocks.

   

   We pour concrete.

5. Leveling the surface.
6. We are waiting for the concrete to harden.

Step 10 The first floor cannot immediately end with a roof, of course. Let's move on to arranging interfloor overlap. It will be wooden. Antiseptic beams with waterproofed ends are laid on the armored belt. A similar technology was discussed above when the plinth was being built.

But since now we are not laying a brick, but a gas block, we make cuts in each block under the ends of the beams.

It is important to accurately measure the distances between the beams and carefully select even rectangular niches in the blocks with a chisel and hammer. We carry out the laying of blocks in a standard way, observing the dressing, applying glue to the previous row and the ends of the blocks.

Important! In our construction example, the bath will have a small balcony. Therefore, several beams are carried outside the walls of the bath.

Step 11 We lay the subfloor. We stack edged board over the beams. We fix the boards to the beams with self-tapping screws through the board. If the board is 50 mm thick, we take hardware 8 cm long.

We leave a rectangular opening in the floor for access to the attic.

In the future, when the floors are ready, windows and doors are inserted, decorative finishing will be carried out, a foil vapor barrier will be stretched in the steam room, lining or lining will be nailed simple board from hardwoods.

Step 12 Usually one-story bath the owners are quite enough for a comfortable pastime. The space under the roof is often used to store fragrant bath brooms.

Sometimes in the bathhouse on the second floor they put small sofa, table, equipping the rest room. Our project provides just such a room on the second floor. After the bath procedures, it will be nice to relax, cool down, going out onto a small balcony. A window on the second floor will increase the efficiency of ventilation and will reduce the cost of building materials.

Roof complex configuration. On both sides there are two trapezoidal pediments, tightly laid with a gas block. And if you look from the side of one of these gables, the perpendicular slopes of the roof are clearly visible on both sides.

Advice! If you are not confident in your abilities, limit yourself to building a simple shed or gable roof.

The main stages of work during the construction of the second floor and roof:

• installation of vertical racks from a bar;
• installation of horizontal strapping;

  

• flooring of floor beams over the strapping;

  

  

  

• installation of extreme roof trusses along the gables;

  

  Floor beams and rafters

  

  

• installation of intermediate roof trusses;

  

• laying gables from blocks;

  

  

• installation of vapor barrier from the side of the room;

  

• filing the ceiling, slopes from the inside with a board;

  

• styling mineral wool in two layers;

  

• installation of wind protection on top of the insulation;

  

• installation of a counter-lattice under a metal tile;

  

  

• assembly of a gable canopy over the balcony, installation windproof membrane and counter-lattices on the slopes of the canopy;

  

• installation of metal tiles and additional elements.

  

  

  

  

You can see how the roof of a complex configuration is being built in the video.

Prices for gas blocks

gas blocks

Video - Roof Construction

Video - Construction of gables

Video - Rafters, armored belt

Video - Completion of the installation of rafters, laying of aerated concrete walls of the second floor

Video - Overlapping, vapor barrier

Video - Roof insulation

Video - Counter-lattice for metal tiles

Video - Washed down the ends of the counter-lattice, filing the ceiling of the ceiling

Video - Laying metal tiles

Shed roof for a budget bath

Step 1. We fasten the Mauerlat over the armored belt. It is a board fixed with dowels (grouses).

We drill holes in the boards, and then in the blocks. We hammer dowels. We lay a layer of roofing material as a waterproofing. We put the Mauerlat board, screw in the screws (grouse).

Step 2. Install vertical racks and horizontal tie bar. The height of the front part is 130 cm, from the rear of the bath - 30 cm. The slope of the roof will be 18 degrees.

We fix the beams with metal perforated corners and wood screws.

On a note! So that the racks do not loosen from gusts of wind, we temporarily fasten the boards connecting the front and rear frames with self-tapping screws.

Step 3 We lay the rafters (we put straight boards on the edge and fasten them with perforated corners to the horizontal bars of the front and rear frames).

Step 4 Perpendicular to the rafters, we mount the boards of the counter-lattice.

Step 5 We fasten sheets of corrugated board. We cut off the counter-lattices sticking out along the edges of the board.

Step 6 We strengthen the frame with jibs. On the sides we install columns from a bar and one additional strut each, in order to attach the skin in the future.

Step 7 We hem the draft ceiling.

Step 8 Sheathe the frame with plywood. Plywood sheets are treated with a protective impregnation.

Step 9 We foam the gaps between the blocks and plywood.

Step 10 If the decorative finishing of the facade is not yet planned, we fix the protective visors made of tin.

Plaster can be used as a decorative finish for the facade of the bath. Mixture to be selected cellular concrete. Conventional cement-sand mixtures are not suitable for this purpose. Aerated concrete quickly absorbs all the moisture from the plaster, decorative coating cracks and falls off.

To plaster the facade, you need to clean it with a grater from the remnants of glue, grind off the bumps, if any. After grinding, the walls must be primed with the Aerated Concrete-Contact primer. The plaster mortar is applied with a wide spatula over the fiberglass mesh fixed with self-tapping screws. After the plaster has dried, you can paint the facade or simply apply a water repellent.

Many people want to have a bath in their summer cottages. But for operation only in the summer, it makes no sense to make a major construction. Lightweight compact steam room, corresponding to the size of the suburban area, will fully cope with its functions.

Advantages and disadvantages of the structure

The summer bath is a light building with a metal stove, dressing room and washing department with a wig. It is practically no different from the capital Russian steam room, except for the size and lack of enhanced insulation. In small summer baths, in order to save space, the washing room is equipped in the steam room, without separating these rooms with partitions.

Of course, the size of the building depends on the capabilities and desires of the owner. Baths are installed as a separate building, and combined with country house, workshop, greenhouse, summer kitchen and other buildings. A rest room in the summer building is not needed. It is enough just to install a comfortable gazebo nearby or just a canopy, place a table and several benches there. In summer it is more pleasant to sit on fresh air, and the walls of the gazebo can be closed with mosquito nets.

If there is no water supply in the summer cottage, then it is necessary to equip the summer water supply. It is somewhat different from the winter one, namely, that it needs mandatory conservation (draining water from pipes) so that frozen water does not destroy the plumbing system.

To the benefits of summer country baths relate:

• low cost;
• construction in a short time;
• no need to build a capital foundation;
• able to do it alone;
• easily dismantled;
• has a low weight.

The main drawback of the dacha bath is the inability to “turn around the Russian soul”: the building cools down quickly, as it perfectly holds heat, but does not accumulate it.

Examples of summer baths

When the hosts cottage construction they want a lightweight version of the steam room only for the warm season, brick buildings are used infrequently. For such a heavy bath, a strong foundation is needed. Accordingly, it is not advisable to make a brick summer steam room.

According to the materials of manufacture, buildings are as follows

Often, if a plot for a dacha was purchased recently, then it lacks the most basic amenities. In such cases, a change house can help out, which contains everything you need for use.

You can also purchase a bath-barrel, consisting only of a steam room. But even in it, if desired, you can find a place for a shower and bring the drain from the pallet to the street. Such a bath does not take up much space.

Sometimes summer residents, not wanting to spend time and money on the construction of an expensive bath, purchase mobile baths. It can be on wheels and move with a trailer. For such a bath, you do not need to build a foundation, but a stand and an extension cord are enough to heat an electric furnace.

cheap a reliable bath called "clay" can be built from a firewood machine, a cart of straw and a clay dump truck.

Stages of construction of a summer steam room

The first step in preparing the construction of a summer bath is to create a project. At the same time, a location is selected. The distance of the summer bath from neighboring areas is taken into account. It must be at least a meter.

Initial work

Marking and preparation of the construction site. Possible tree roots are uprooted, the site is cleared of construction debris. Next, the first stake is driven in strictly vertically (this is how the corner of the bath is marked). From it, through the planned length of the walls, the second, third and fourth pegs are hammered, which are tied with a cord. After checking the equality of the marking diagonals, we begin to dig a trench or pits for the foundation. Then proceed to the construction of the foundation. Next comes the construction of a blind area, 120–150 cm wide, made of clay or concrete.

Varieties of the foundation for a light structure

The basis for a summer bath in the country can be built different type, depending on the weight of the building. Strip foundation- durable and reliable, despite the ease of its construction. For its construction, coarse sand 20 cm thick must be poured onto the bottom of the dug trench, spilling it with water and tamping with a board with a handle attached to it. Next, you need to fill in a layer of gravel of the same height as the sand, install reinforcing cage(2-3 metal rods fixed together with a piece of wire) and pour the entire structure with concrete.

If your site is not in earthquake-prone regions, then you can refuse to reinforce the foundation of the summer bath. But we must remember that over time, the structure settles, and if the soil is clayey, then the foundation may not withstand and collapse. And reinforcement gives the structure elasticity and protection against sudden collapse. It is important to remember: the foundation takes time to gain maximum strength. Usually this period is 28 days. For proper drying, the erected part is covered with a film and moistened for several days. Only on the 3rd or 4th day open and allow to dry completely.

The columnar foundation is easy to build. It is necessary to dig shallow holes with a step of 1.5–2.5 m and install concrete pillars. For a uniform load of the bath on the poles and their possible uneven shrinkage, they are tied with a beam, a bar or a shallow tape. This type of foundation is not suitable for clay and swampy soils.

Pile foundations are rarely used. It is needed in case of difficult soil in your summer cottage or when building a bathhouse near a pond. In this case, the structure is installed on metal, wooden or concrete piles.

The clay foundation is a reality that has come down to our days.

A trench is dug, the depth of which should be below the level of the fertile layer, and the width should be 3 times the width of the foundation itself. In a separate open pit kneading bare feet a solution consisting of clay, water, sand, sawdust or straw, to the state of a plastic mass and left for several hours. A ready-made clay foundation mortar (necessarily tamping) is placed in the installed formwork from boards or a metal sheet and left to dry completely. After removing the formwork, the foundation is wetted with water and rubbed with fine sand.

And then the most important thing begins: firewood is laid in the space between the walls of the foundation and the walls of the trench and set on fire. This is done so that, under the influence of high temperature, the foundation is fired - in order to gain high strength. In order for this process to take place more intensively and better, the trench should be covered sheet metal. Such a foundation will stand for a very long time. Do not forget to close it before laying the walls waterproofing materials. Sometimes site owners build a simplified version of the base under summer bath: from flat stones and clay.

Construction of walls, supply of communications and finishing

It is necessary to immediately determine the location of the stove and make a foundation for it. It is important to remember that the base for the stove should not come into contact with the base of the bath itself on any side: it should be a separate element.

Then you need to do communications and finishing work.

1. Drain arrangement. A plastic pipe with a diameter of 40 mm is inserted into a special hole in the center or corner of the bath, led into a cesspool or drainage pit.
2. Before erecting walls on the foundation, it is necessary to lay high-quality waterproofing. Frame-shield technology is very popular. In this case, the construction will require lumber in the form of a bar 150 x 150 mm or boards, profile pipe for mounting frame structure and upholstery from sheet materials with a heater. wooden elements treated with an antiseptic.
3. The construction of the walls of the summer bath.
4. Roof installation. Suitable for single or double.
5. Finishing work. They consist in laying floors, ceilings, lining walls with clapboard, removing a chimney.
6. Arrangement and decor. The shape of the shelves is selected individually, because someone likes to just sit, and someone wants to lie in the steam room. Therefore, in the first case, the length is usually 40-60 cm, and in the second - 150 cm.

Building your own summer bath in the garden is a doable task. The lack of insulation work will simplify the task. The time and effort spent on construction will pay off with the convenience and comfort during the adoption of bath procedures. It's so nice to take a steam bath in a bathhouse built with your own hands.

Owners country houses are engaged in the improvement of their sites, so that seasonal or year-round living in this area was the most comfortable. If the organization of a recreation area in the yard does not cause difficulties, then the construction of some objects needs increased attention. These include a bath: layout and design of the structure, calculation of the size of each room and distribution of the area - all these issues should be resolved even before construction begins.

To be approached with great responsibility

If earlier baths consisted of only one room, then modern options these structures include several rooms. These may include a washing room, a dressing room, a recreation area, a pool, a billiard room, etc. So that in the future the owner does not have to resort to restructuring and adjusting the building, all important notes must be added to the bath drawings at the design stage. The following points deserve special attention:

• interior layout;
• water supply system;
• electrical wiring;
• sewerage and wastewater system.

Note! Having a detailed diagram in front of you, you can greatly simplify and speed up the process of selecting and arranging furniture.

Development of a bath plan, taking into account the conditions of the summer cottage

To create ideal conditions to relax in the bath, you need to take into account some of the nuances that will avoid trouble during the operation of the premises. It is desirable that the construction zone is located on soils with a low level of occurrence. ground water. Before proceeding with the development of the project, you must immediately exclude all areas that do not meet this condition.

Size 5 by 7 meters with an open terrace

If there is a well on the territory, then the distance between it and the bath should not be less than 5 m. The minimum gap between the steam room and the residential building is 8 m. The farther from the bath the compost pit and toilet are located, the better. Experts advise making an entrance from the south side. AT winter time less snowdrifts are formed here, therefore, the possibility of blocking access to . It is better if the windows face the west, which will contribute to the penetration of a sufficient amount of sunlight into the room.

If there is a reservoir in the summer cottage, having built a bathhouse 15-20 m from it, you can use it instead of a pool. In addition, the presence of a river or lake in the vicinity of the facility will provide a water supply system.

For small plots(3-6 acres) 3 by 3 bath projects are suitable, photos of such buildings are in abundance on the sites construction companies. Even in such compact buildings, the steam room remains the main room. Under the organization of this room should be taken as much as possible possible number area - about 8 m². This is enough to install 2-3 loungers (shelves) and put the stove.

Other rooms can be included in the layout of the bath 3x4 m or more (optional). The building can be used for its intended purpose even in the absence of a billiard room or a bathroom. A bathhouse cannot exist without a steam room. For this reason, separation inner space into functional areas primarily depends on the size of the project.

If you want additional amenities, you can include a small shower room or washing room in the 3 by 4 m bath project. After the steam room, here you can wash off the dirt and freshen up. For standard projects characteristic is the presence of a rest room, which will be operated in between steam sessions. For its organization will require 4.5 m².

Other rooms will also be useful, for example, a locker room or a vestibule. They are compact enough to fit in a 5x5 timber bath project along with the main rooms.

Note! The norm of the area for washing one person is 2 m².

Bath design: main premises and successful examples of layouts

Even the smallest project cannot consist solely of one steam room. In order for the bathhouse to function normally, and its operating conditions provide comfort for a person, other rooms must be included in the layout. To this end, the interior space of the building is divided into small rooms, each of which performs its own role.

In the project of a 5 by 6 m bath (given the small size of such a building), it is not necessary to use bearing walls. It will be enough light partitions made of wood. They do not need to lay a foundation and do not carry additional loads.

Thanks to the division of the main space into several sections, it will be possible to efficiently and quickly heat up the steam room. In this case, other rooms will not be exposed to heat. This advantage is especially useful for the rest room.

The dressing room belongs to the category of necessary premises. This room is used as an entrance gateway to the bathhouse, preventing access to the steam room cold air from the street. Here you can store firewood or other type of fuel. The dressing room is suitable for arranging a small dressing room (cloakroom). If the layout is drawn up correctly, from this room you can easily get into the steam room, and the shower room, and the rest room.

The layout of the bath 3 by 5 m may include a fairly spacious dressing room. Using partitions, it is possible to organize additional rooms for storing things and fuel. In the dressing room, a large window would be useful, but only on condition that it is not in the steam room. The steam room should have only one door that opens into the dressing room. The dressing room itself can be connected by passages to other rooms.

Shower room on the bath diagram and its dimensional parameters

If there is a shower room in the project, it is desirable to separate it from other rooms. This is due to several requirements. Firstly, the temperature in the washroom should be much lower than in the steam room. Secondly, the process of taking a shower is an intimate procedure, so it is better to hide the room from prying eyes.

In order to economize cash on shower heating, you can minimize its size. An area of ​​2-3 m² will be enough. Such a shower will fit even in a miniature project of a 4 by 4 bath from a bar.

Helpful advice! If this room will be used exclusively by the male sex, the size of the washroom can be reduced to 0.5 m². Thanks to this, it will be possible to increase the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe rest room.

In the project of a bath from a bar 6 by 4 m, you can include a more spacious shower room, installing there not only necessary equipment, but also seating, for example, a bench. As a finish for the upper half of the room, lining is suitable, the lower part can be tiled.

If the building is intended for family visits with children, it is advisable to take as a basis the project of a bath from a 6x6 m beam. It will allow not only to organize a comfortable and large washing room, but also to equip it with additional compartments designed for washing, etc. A shower room with a decent area , can become the main room in the bath. In this case, you need to take care of creating the appropriate conditions:

• organize quality system ventilation (forced and natural);
• perform the correct calculation of the heating scheme;
• organize a lighting system with an optimal combination of natural and artificial light;
• calculate the floor area for maximum number visitors.

If there is such a layout of the 6x6 m bath, the rest room can be excluded from the project and transferred to the house.

How to correctly calculate the size of the steam room in the bath

It is desirable to place the steam room as far as possible from the front door. This room doesn't need windows. Dimensional parameters of the room are selected taking into account generally accepted standards. These standards set out standards for the main points:

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• building materials and finishes;
• parameters of the ventilation system;
• the maximum number of visitors;
• the power level of the heater (furnace), the degree of heat output;
• fire safety;
• structural parameters of the room and ergonomics.

In terms of height, the steam room is subject to strict standards. This parameter should not go beyond the range of 210-240 cm. At the same time, the length and width of the room can be within 190-235 cm and 84-115 cm, respectively. These dimensions are considered the minimum for small projects calculated for one person. Of course, in the projects of baths from a beam of 6 by 6 m or more, the dimensions of the steam room can be increased.

Helpful advice! If the bath is limited in size, in order to save space for organizing other rooms, sitting shelves can be installed in the steam room or cascaded.

Do-it-yourself 3x4 bath project development: photos and recommendations

It is quite difficult to develop a building scheme on your own, especially if it is a project with a limited area. In this case, it is advisable to seek help from specialists. To get an acceptable result, it is recommended to first sketch a sketch that reflects all the wishes. Most often the owners suburban areas seek to save precious meters. However, not everything can be saved. In an effort to minimize costs, it is desirable to avoid the use of:

• materials of dubious production;
• materials that are not intended for the construction of steam rooms or do not have the necessary properties;
• electrical appliances made by hand.

In addition, in order to save money, it is not worth hiring for specialists who do not have the relevant experience. It may be that self-taught craftsmen charge enticingly low amounts, but such maintenance can end badly over time and entail a lot of additional costs.

Despite the 3x4 m bath projects, which are limited in size, you should not give up on windows. They not only provide access to natural light, but can also be used to ventilate rooms. For a tiny bath, openings of 0.4x0.4 m in size will be ideal.

Original layouts of baths 3 by 5: photos inside and outside

If a 3x5 m bath will have a steam room and a sink, which are located separately, the internal space of the structure should be divided into at least 3 parts. Under the organization of a zone intended for changing and relaxing, it is desirable to allocate a plot of 2x3 m. The remaining space in the bath project 3 by 5 m is divided almost equally. The result should be two rooms, the dimensions of which are 3.4x1.4 m and 3.4x1.5 m. When drawing up a diagram of such a bath, you should consider where the boiler will be installed for heating water. It is desirable that it be located as far as possible from the front door.

The project must have a dressing room, even if it is small. However, the presence of this room is simply necessary. Moreover, regardless of whether the bath scheme includes a separate rest room or not.

To improve the operating conditions in the bath will help the presence of a terrace. Most often, in such projects, 5x1.9 m is allocated for the construction of this element. Of course, in this case, the size of the interior will be slightly reduced, but these losses will be insignificant. You can not include the terrace at all in the general plan of the bath. Developers often arrange it as an extension on the side of the building, which allows not to reduce the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe interior. The optimal size of the terrace in this case will be 3x7 m.

Helpful advice! To save interior space, you can transfer the area for relaxation and rest to the terrace or organize a room designed for this purpose on the attic floor.

What does the optimal layout of a 4 by 4 bath look like: photos inside and outside the building

Most often, a log is used for the construction of small buildings. Therefore, on real photo bath projects 4 by 4 m, you can see that the internal space is much smaller than the external dimensions of the building. In order for the calculations to be true, it is necessary to take into account the dimensional parameters of the building material, as well as the method of construction.

If the bath is assembled using the "paw" method, from inside rooms should take away the thickness of the log. If the building is assembled “in a bowl”, another 25 cm should be added to this indicator. For example, if logs are used for the construction of a bath, the length of which is 4 m and the diameter is 24 cm, then maximum size the internal space will be 3x3 m. This nuance must be taken into account when planning the future bath.

The scheme of this room is drawn up according to the principle described earlier. In the photo of 4 by 4 bath projects, the interior, as well as the nature of the placement of rooms, is most often simplified as much as possible. The simplest circuit usually consists of one room that performs several functions at once. It replaces the dressing room, dressing room and steam room. A wood-burning or electric stove is mounted in the corner. Also, 2-3 shelves are installed in the room. The width of these elements is about 0.5-0.6 m.

The described layout option cannot be called practical and convenient. More comfortable conditions will have a bathhouse, which has a rest room and a washing room. The space of 4x4 m allows you to organize these rooms.

Helpful advice! It is desirable to install the stove in the steam room. Thus, the room adjacent to this zone will be heated due to the heat generated by it. For this reason, experts recommend equipping a rest room next to the steam room.

If there is an additional budget, a 4x4 m bath can be increased at the expense of. In this case, a standard layout is organized on the ground floor, and a relaxation room, billiard room or bedroom is arranged upstairs.

Optimal and practical projects of baths from a bar 6 by 3 meters

Bath projects 6x3 m are designed for the simultaneous service of 3-4 people, therefore it is advisable to allocate at least 6 m² of internal area for the arrangement of the steam room. The dimensions of the waiting room on average will be 3-5 m². There are no special restrictions for other rooms. In projects of baths 3 by 6 m, several rooms are usually equipped:

• steam room;
• hallway;
• washing;
• restroom.

Some developers reduce the number of rooms, but experts do not recommend doing this. Each of these rooms has its own function. Washing room and steam room belong to the category of mandatory rooms. If you get rid of the hallway, then Entrance door will lead directly to the rest room. AT summer time such placement will not cause discomfort, but in winter the relaxation room will be exposed to drafts. If we exclude a rest room from the project, then there will be much less pleasure from taking bath procedures.

To improve the conditions of relaxation in a bath made of timber, it is advisable to install wooden furniture. To create comfort, a sofa, a pair of armchairs and a small table will be enough. Do not interfere with the presence of a TV or home theater in the rest room.

Beautiful layouts of baths 4 by 5: inside and outside photos

The planning of such nuances as the type of foundation, features of the roof, material for building walls, etc. depends on the conditions that the summer cottage has and the wishes of the owner.

In the photo of the bath projects 5 by 4 m in the standard version you can see minimum set premises. In one-story buildings, as a rule, there is no dressing room and vestibule. In such conditions, it is impossible to operate the bath in the cold season. Behind the front door is usually a rest room. It can be spacious. An area of ​​\u200b\u200b4x2.85 m will be enough to put a table or benches in the room. If desired, a TV and other equipment can be installed in the relaxation room.

After the rest room, a washing room is set up. The size of this room can be 1.8x2 m. A sink for washing hands and washing, a toilet bowl, as well as a shower cabin are installed here. From this room you can get into the steam room, the dimensions of which are 2x2.1 m. A stove is installed in it, under the construction of which about 1 m² is allocated.

Note! In the process of developing a 4 by 5 m bath project, it is imperative to make sure that free and convenient access is organized to each room.

A spacious terrace can be added to the standard set of rooms. The optimal size of this zone is 1.5x4 m. If desired, the terrace is glazed and turns into a comfortable veranda. This space can be used to organize an additional recreation area or install a barbecue oven here. At the same time, the front door from the terrace should lead to the rest room.

Features of projects of baths from a bar 4x6 meters with a terrace

Projects of log baths 4 by 6 m with a terrace are in high demand among the owners of summer cottages. The construction of such a building can be completed in just one season. Thanks to the use of modern technologies and materials, you can get a beautiful building with comfortable conditions, and at a fairly reasonable price. When planning a bath 6 by 4 m, the following rooms can be placed in the building:

• steam room (4 m²);
• washing room (4 m²);
• rest room (8 m²);
• open terrace (8 m²).

The presented dimensions of the rooms allow at least 6 people to sit in the bathhouse at the same time. The number of visitors is not limited to this. To heat a room from a bar, a metal stove equipped with a tank for heating water is suitable. From here, the warm liquid will flow into the washing room. The bath may have autonomous system water supply or be fed directly from a residential building.

To ensure comfortable conditions for taking water procedures, the ceiling height must be at least 2.2 m. In a bath with such an area, at least 3 windows will need to be installed. The size of the structures is 0.6x0.6 m. Since the bath is made of timber, it is advisable to use wooden windows, although the use of metal-plastic windows is also allowed.

Bath projects 6 by 6: photos with examples of interesting layouts

The area, which has a bath size of 6x6 m, is considered optimal. This space is enough to organize everything inside necessary premises, install heating equipment and interior items (furniture). With such dimensions, the 6x6 m bath project can simultaneously accommodate from 8 to 10 people. For one visitor, about 1.1 m² is required. This indicator can be used to calculate and plan all rooms in the bath. The building in this case may consist of the following premises:

• steam room;
• washing;
• rest rooms;
• bathroom;
• dressing room.

The nature of the placement of rooms can be individual, since only the owner knows how many people will have a rest in the bath at the same time and how it will be operated. The development of the project can be started from any part of the building, the main thing is that sewage pipe was located next to the drain pit and the dimensions were taken into account, as well as features furnace design. It is desirable that the steam room be much larger than the washing room. The recreation room can be equipped with a swimming pool.

In general, planning a bath does not cause any particular difficulties. By taking into account basic safety standards and requirements, as well as using the principles of rational room placement, you can create a space that