Stages of construction of a beautiful and comfortable bathhouse built using frame technology. Do-it-yourself frame bath: ready-made drawings, a step-by-step guide and recommendations for finishing Do-it-yourself step-by-step construction of a 3x3 frame bath

The construction of a bath is necessary at any summer cottage and at a country house. But traditional options that use brick or timber have a number of disadvantages. But the frame structures deprived of them must be erected using a special technology.

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Peculiarities

It is very difficult to build buildings, even such minor ones as a bathhouse, with your own hands from brick or logs. You will need to spend a lot of money on materials, prepare flawless drawings. And without the help of someone, it will not be possible to do such a job at all. Therefore, frame projects deserve increased attention. Moreover, the consumption of wood, compared with conventional timber structures, is reduced by exactly half.

The buildings are relatively light, even if they are made in dimensions of 6 by 4 or 6x6 m; if the size of the structure is 3x4, 4x4 m, this circumstance manifests itself even more. Therefore, there is no need to prepare solid foundations. You can simultaneously finish the external and internal walls, and the overall installation speed increases markedly. The smallest area of ​​​​the steam room is 250x250 cm. It is recommended to use asbestos-cement pipes with a diameter of 100 and a length of 4000 mm for the foundation, which are filled with concrete.

All wooden elements are thoroughly dried before installation. The rafters are assembled on the ground, after which they are alternately lifted and placed above the frame racks. The roof is made only in a ventilated version.

It is advisable not to raise the ceiling in the steam room above 210 cm. Only after finishing the frame, the bath is divided into separate rooms.

Pros and cons

The undeniable advantages of the construction of frame baths are:

• Ease of construction;
• cheap construction (small payment for materials);
• simplification of foundation work in comparison with other options;
• poor thermal conductivity;
• the ability to make communication channels inside the walls and not spoil the appearance;

• exclusion of shrinkage;
• no need for complex construction equipment;
• environmental safety (a rarity for country budget buildings);
• the ability to perform all the work without the involvement of specialists;
• exclusion of wet work - you can build in winter and even where there is no sustainable water supply;
• a wide variety of finishes.

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But after carefully studying the reviews of owners and developers, you can immediately find certain shortcomings. Each of them can be eliminated by timely measures, only because it is necessary to properly understand possible problems. Frame baths in their pure form quickly cool down, and therefore an ugly fungus appears inside after a short time. To cope with this difficulty, you need to use only the highest quality heaters.

Styrofoam or plain mineral wool do not serve effectively enough, and the first option also catches fire easily.

You can extend the life of the shield bath if you impregnate all used timber and boards with special antiseptics. After 18-24 months, the frame shrinkage is sometimes 80-100 mm. As a result, the outer and inner finishes are deformed. You can reduce this risk if you take lumber that has undergone chamber drying.

Design subtleties

The ease of construction and its accessibility for non-professionals does not mean that you can safely get to work without preparation. Even the presence of experience in such work does not give grounds for a complacent attitude. A well-thought-out project and drawings of the future structure will help to avoid serious mistakes.

On a small area (3x4 or 4x4 m), it is required to maximize the intensity of space use. If possible, such small baths should generally be avoided if there is sufficient territory for building.

The simplest scheme is when the steam room, shower room, boiler room and dressing room are combined. But such a step is acceptable only for mini structures or transportable baths, because it is not possible to distribute the temperature as expected. Therefore, they try to create even with the smallest dimensions, albeit very small, but autonomous rooms. A 3x4 m bath may well be heated by a small boiler or a wood-burning stove. Some designers even find the opportunity to supplement it with a veranda or terrace.

Minimal-sized projects have a number of valuable properties:

• low consumption of building materials;
• almost complete exclusion of waste;
• high speed of work;
• strength and reliability (since it is not required to save on the quality of components in a small area).

It should be remembered that even a small one-story extension to the house must be registered with the cadastral authorities.

On a larger plot, it is quite possible to build a 6x6 bathhouse: it will already allow not only to wash off the dirt from itself, but also to invite the whole family and even a group of friends. Typical projects with such sides imply a significant area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe rest room - it can reach 20 m2. Most often, it is there that they also have a staircase connecting the first floor with the attic.

A two-story bath is superior to a one-story bath just because it allows you to organize additional space for living and leisure. Often there are rooms for receiving guests, bedrooms, billiard tables or other sports equipment.

Thanks to the frame technology, the vast majority of the costs relate to the base of the building, and if it already exists, the subsequent stages of work will be much more affordable.

In the construction of two floors, the first step is to create a foundation of supporting pillars, and the base must be covered with a layer of waterproofing. Experts recommend building a bath truss system from boards with a section of 10x5 cm, and a 2.2 cm thick board usually goes to the crate.

The frame-panel structure is assembled according to the principle of a toy constructor. It is not difficult to find combinations of elements suitable for the construction of a washing room with a pool, then they are only placed on a prepared frame. The kit usually comes with a detailed technological instruction that helps to avoid mistakes - if only it is strictly observed. In the case of mobile baths, everything is even simpler - they are not assembled at construction sites, but at industrial enterprises. All that remains for the customers is only to supplement the finished blocks with the necessary details.

Most projects involve the use of gable roofs, the attic space under them is not organized or it is very small. Inside, they often put bath equipment. When choosing the type of foundation, they are guided by the category of soil and its condition. The mass of the building, even if we take into account the presence of a second floor in a number of options, is relatively small. The design indicators of insulation depend on whether the bath will be used all year round or whether it is intended only for the warm season.

Calculation of the amount of materials

It is not so difficult to calculate the need for metal frame nodes: any seller can do this after learning the required dimensions and design. In standard projects, the exact consumption of metal is normalized, and if they are made to order, then all calculations are undertaken by the designers. But all the same, they must be controlled, since even on iron material, some builders can make “mistakes” in their favor. Before calculating the needs for wood, you need to choose whether a beam or a log will be used in this case. Timber-based structures are preferable because:

• shrinkage is noticeably reduced;
• there are no strict restrictions on size and geometry;
• work is greatly simplified.

The most durable timber, according to experts, is made from coniferous species, moreover, they are less susceptible to the destructive action of insects and microorganisms gnawing wood. The standard dimensions of the timber, taken into account in the calculations, range from 10x10 to 20x20 cm. The volume is calculated by multiplying the length by the height and by the thickness of a single element.

Some masters say that you need to add 10-30% to the result. But this step is frankly stupid, because on the contrary, you will have to spend less timber - it is not mounted on window and door openings.

Inexperienced customers and even builders replace the length of the perimeter with an area, and then they are forced to stop work, buy the missing materials and spend money on their transportation. In order not to be mistaken, you should also carefully check the labeling and accompanying documents. In some cases, on the price tags and in the speeches of the sellers, the dimensions of the timber are somewhat larger than it actually is.

To further save money, you can change the timber to boards, and make the cladding from plastic lining or profile sheets. When working, only boards of the highest category are acceptable.

Construction stages

Having calculated the need for materials and choosing the dimensions of the frame bath, you need to deal with the sequence of construction work. There are no fundamental differences from the construction of other baths or city houses in the order of stages, but each of them has its own specifics.

Foundation

So, when building a base, it is best to use columnar structures. They are assembled from asbestos-cement pipes with a diameter of approximately 10 cm, reinforced from the inside with concrete. Then they mark out the external contours and, with the help of a drill, drill openings that go 2 m deep.

For your information: the depth in some cases may be more or less. This decision is made, focusing on the type of soil and the depth of groundwater. Each pipe is inserted into the opening and covered with coarse sand from above, besides, it is thoroughly rammed. When pouring, concrete is used, which is prepared from:

• 1 part of cement M200;
• 4 parts of sand;
• 7.5 parts of small gravel;
• 3 parts pure water.

According to the step-by-step instructions, the filling of the pipes should be smooth, a strong steel plate is placed on each of them when ready. The mounted pipes must dry, and only then comes the turn to the installation of the lower trim. The box is treated with disinfectants and covered with a layer of waterproofing. Logs are placed on top of the strapping, a draft floor is formed from them. In the gap separating the structure from the log and the strapping, a roofing material is laid, sometimes this place is abundantly smeared with mastic.

The construction of the foundation under the frame bath, which has two or three floors, must take into account the total load and snow pressure. Wooden bases are allowed only for miniature baths, the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bwhich is 12 square meters. m or less. Increased attention will need to be paid to calculating the diameter of the beam and leveling the surfaces.

Be sure to put several bars on the same level, trimmed around the perimeter with stakes. Such systems perform well on clay soils, where they serve stably for many years.

During the construction of baths on screw piles, there is no need to join the supporting structures using beams or channels. Such supports help to build even on a hillside or on a heavily eroded bank of a river with a rapid current. The introduction of piles into the ground is carried out either with the involvement of special equipment, or through the efforts of several builders at the same time. When working, it is strictly forbidden to deviate the support from the horizon line.

On every fourth turn, the position of the pile is carefully verified using a magnetic level. According to the technology, it is forbidden to extract structures that have bent during twisting to the outside, their position is corrected using a rotary level. To get rid of the gaps separating the piles and the surrounding soil, you can use any durable concrete and reinforcement fragments. After completing the installation, the piles are checked for evenness. If everything is in order, heads are welded on top of them; the drain in the bath is always equipped not only in the washing room, but also in the steam room.

Many try to put a bath on a tape base. Such a solution is acceptable even on soil prone to movement and subsidence, which can easily swell. The tape is divided into Finnish and Canadian; both technological schools are simple, but require careful and responsible approach. Monolithic foundations are erected directly on the construction site, and prefabricated foundations are only laid and connected. Most often, they are guided by a shallow depth (up to 50 cm), such a tape is evenly spread under the bearing walls.

The choice of a suitable foundation option is often difficult without geological surveys. The simplest check can be done independently: the type of soil and its visual characteristics are recognized by digging a trench 150 cm deep. They carefully evaluate not only the height of groundwater, but also the level at which the earth freezes.

For any type of foundation, the construction site is cleared in advance of grasses and bushes, flowers and turf. There should not even be stumps, roots and any objects that could interfere with construction.

Strong cords made of colored fabrics help to simplify marking. In accordance with the markup, you need to dig a recess for the foundation, which will be 50 cm deeper and 400 cm wider than the prepared guideline. The pillow of the building is made of sand, which is abundantly filled with water and rammed. Then cover the first layer with rubble. Waterproofing is placed along the side planes of the trench. Traditionally, roofing material is used, although more and more often it is being replaced by a more modern penetron.

The formwork is created as follows: the upper edge of the waterproofing is used for laying boards, their thickness is 50 mm, and their width is maximum 1.5 m. wire reinforcement, wound up 50 mm below the top point of the formwork (later completely hidden by a layer of concrete). Concreting is carried out with a mixture of cement with sand and gravel, in terms of density it is similar to dense sour cream. Additional hardening is achieved by plasticizers.

It is recommended to prepare the mortar yourself, as it is much faster than getting ready mix from the factory. In addition, this approach will help preserve the quality of the cold joint, avoid water seeping through it, which would spoil the base. And, importantly, the differences in cost can be neglected. After completing the work, the foundation is covered with a liquid-impervious material. Concrete will harden in 24 hours, but it will gain final strength only after a few weeks.

The formwork must be made using even and strong panels so that its appearance is perfect. Nails are hammered in strictly from the inside to the outside. If you do the opposite, it will be much more difficult to remove the shields. When working on formwork structures, you need to immediately think about outlets for sewerage, water supply and electrical cables. If they are not immediately provided, then it will be necessary to hollow and violate the quality of the monolith.

It is quite acceptable to put a strip foundation in the form of a monolithic belt under a frame bath if the fertile soil layer is taken out and replaced with sprinkled sand.

Both a monolithic solution and a shallow structure, and a non-buried base must be protected from the force of frost heaving. For this use:

• drainage means;
• side edges;
• insulation around the blind area;
• removal of heaving soils with their replacement with sand or crushed stone.

Shallow depth belts should not be used on various slopes: there they will not withstand significant shear forces. When building on dusty sand or embankment, an expansion slab is placed below. A properly executed monolith always has a greater height than width. Moreover, the difference is 2-4 times; such a step will make the basement part of the structure optimal, it will be possible to form both the overlap of the beams and the dirt floors.

Walls and floor

They begin to work by placing special racks that will be fixed by the upper strapping. In the intervals between them, other racks are added. They will make the bath stronger and more stable. The box is covered with boards, attached to the screws. Consistently assembling the details, they form the final design.

In frame buildings, windows and doors are mounted immediately, without waiting for the complete completion of work.

In most frame baths, floors are created from logs and boards, but it will not be possible to accurately determine the appropriate size of these elements without complex calculations. But this is not necessary - private developers may well get by with ready-made average values. In most cases, boards with a thickness of 30-40 mm and finishing logs based on a bar with a section of 100x150 mm are acceptable. The thickness of the board, expressed in millimeters, should approximately correspond to the gap between the lags, expressed in centimeters.

If thermal insulation is used, the gaps between the lags of the finishing decks are corrected taking into account the thermal insulation layer created.

As for the basic materials, all long-serving types of wood are suitable for creating a floor in a frame bath. But poplar and other soft wood are unacceptable. Before buying and using, you should carefully check the dryness and integrity of the material, the absence of cracks, splits and other problems. Ideally, all lumber should come from the same kiln-dried lot.

It is desirable to make a finishing flooring from an edged or tongue-and-groove board, since it does not need to be further polished, but the rough base can also be unedged.

An alternative to wooden structures is often a self-leveling floor. This solution has become more and more popular over the years, pushing ceramic and stone surfaces into the background. The key advantages of self-leveling floor can be considered:

• integrity of the created coating;
• high mechanical strength and excellent wear resistance;
• zero level of fire danger;
• absence of dust and harmful emissions during operation;
• a significant variety of design options, including decoration with three-dimensional drawings;
• care is much easier than for wooden structures.

But there are also objective weaknesses: for example, the self-leveling floor finally hardens only after a few days, when you can walk on the wooden floor right away. There is a high risk of scratches and dirt, and the cost of such a coating is very high. Any bath floors are recommended to be made with a slope towards the drain, this will prevent water and soap suds from spreading in all directions. The self-leveling floor can be done horizontally (without a slope) or the mixture can be poured onto a base that already has a slope. The first option requires carefully sealing the intersections of the floor with the walls, and the second is more difficult to perform, but directs all the liquid in the right direction at once.

The self-leveling floor cannot be simply “poured”: its substrate is prepared very carefully. On top of the tree, you need to lay powerful concrete screeds, and with reinforcement. The sooner the mixture is poured, the better - it rapidly loses fluidity, and if this happens before the end of work, all costs will be in vain. Most often, the floors are poured together.

When working with walls, in most cases, the front skin is made on the basis of lining or chipboard. Waterproofing is provided by parchment laid under the outer skin. Only then is a heater used, which must be ideally environmentally friendly and safe in terms of fire. The total thickness of the cake and its individual layers is determined by the climatic parameters of the territory and the peculiarities of using a frame bath.

A year-round building should have not only thicker walls, but also a special vapor barrier. Polyethylene film is considered the best solution for it.

Painting wall sheathing, even in dressing rooms, is undesirable, because even the safest paint and varnish vapors can be harmful to health. When thinking over the design of the walls, special attention is paid to how ventilation ducts and electrical wires will pass through them. Since flammable materials are used for exterior decoration, and excess moisture is often present in the air, it is worth giving preference to closed, thoroughly insulated cable ducts.

If the rooms are finished with boards, their thickness should be approximately 30 mm. With a smaller value, strength suffers, with a larger one, the structure becomes heavy.

Roof

The basic parts used in the construction of the roof of the frame bath are gradually laid and assembled together directly on the site. The farm should stand on the prepared frame base. To simplify the work on creating a roof, placing it on a rough boardwalk helps. An exemplary pie always includes ventilation systems, so the gap from the rafters to the counter beam is filled with a vapor barrier. The crate must be attached to the timber.

Then it's time to make gables from oriented slabs or quality boards. In most cases, it is worth limiting yourself to the simplest shed roof, which is performed quickly and without unnecessary difficulties. But if you choose a completely original design, not every specialist will be able to complete the work competently and within the allotted time.

What is very important, with the same area, gable solutions turn out to be 50-100% more expensive, and this difference is not justified even by their specific capabilities. With the right calculation, a covering with one slope will last for many years and all this time it will be extremely convenient to use.

Do-it-yourself flat roofs on baths are not recommended. The cost-effectiveness of such a choice is only apparent - the need for powerful artificial ventilation with natural weakness absorbs all the savings. According to qualified builders, a shed roof should be located under a general slope of 20 to 30 degrees. Under this condition, liquid and solid precipitation will spontaneously descend.

There are two ways to create a slope: intentionally making the walls uneven in height or installing racks. With the second option, the material is spent less, but the heat will keep worse.

Experienced roofers know for sure that as the pitch of the roof decreases, more and more smooth face materials have to be used. But at an angle of less than 10 degrees, even the best solutions do not allow you to get rid of the puddles and snow drifts that form. Mauerlat is formed from a coniferous timber with a cross section of at least 15x15 cm. Outside, it is covered with a layer of waterproofing (lubricated with mastic or wrapped with roofing material). Rafters are made exclusively from flat boards with a section of 5x15 cm, which are made of hardwoods.

With such dimensions, an optimal margin of safety is achieved and it remains possible to mount insulation up to 15 cm thick, if necessary. For your information: the length of the rafters is calculated with reservation for overhangs, which improve the protection of walls from water. All ends of the rafter legs are equipped with cuts for power plates, which are fastened with nails or metal overlays. The crate is attached to the legs of the rafters at a right angle.

Under certain roofing materials that are prone to deformation, an inextricable crate based on moisture-resistant plywood is necessarily created.

In other cases, they put lattices of slats, their thickness varies from 2.5 to 3 cm. But in each specific case, of course, this thickness should be uniform throughout the entire volume. It is advisable to cover baths with shed roofs with ondulin, corrugated board, metal or soft tiles. If there is a simple ceiling below, without an attic or attic, it is required to lay a slab or roll insulation. Regardless, use:

• hydrophobic film;
• flame retardant and antiseptic impregnations;
• fasteners of a special sample;
• carefully selected and tested tools.

Shed type roofs should be supported by rafters spaced in 0.5-0.8 m increments. The roofing material should be attached to the base using special self-tapping screws, including synthetic rubber caps. These tops help block water seepage. If there is no specialized fastener, you need to use simple self-tapping screws, supplementing them with external rubber gaskets. Then the pediments are sewn up, the drain is equipped - this completes the external work on the frame bath.

Finishing

No matter how reliable and durable the created “box” is, it will not work to be limited to it. It is imperative to protect these structures from negative external influences and at the same time make them more attractive.

Exterior wall decoration helps developers and designers to express their tastes and aesthetic priorities. Often they try to sheathe them with siding, clapboard. Slightly in popularity, these materials are inferior to the block house and plaster.

Before applying any cladding, you need to check the draft walls. They should not even have minor cracks, the skin joints should fit snugly against each other. With the help of vinyl siding, you can create a variety of visual pictures: an imitation of a simple tree, and a "brick" wall, and something high-tech in spirit. Plastic panels perform no less well, and if you need to increase the natural appearance of the bath to the limit, you should choose a block house.

In the case of choosing a lining, it is required to withstand several days in order for acclimatization to take place.

Decorating a frame bath from the inside is no less important than from the outside. It is recommended to give preference to environmentally friendly materials, their increased cost is fully justified. The choice of design in interior decoration is now unlimited, you can use any style, not necessarily traditional Russian. Dressing rooms are trimmed with both hardwood and coniferous wood. But it is advisable to choose the color as calm and balanced as possible, given the purpose of the bath.

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Washing compartments are covered with clapboard, soaked in advance with mixtures that block rotting. Some consumers use plastic panels and even polycarbonate sheets. In the steam room there is no place for coniferous wood, with the exception of cedar. Among the hardwood varieties, the first place is invariably linden, which does not burn when touched and does not fade during long-term operation. In more budget projects, preference is given to aspen and alder.

You can decorate a bath brick oven with the help of tiles: this option is the simplest, cheapest and at the same time allows you to provide an attractive appearance. Tiles should not be hung on masonry, they should rest on the base of the stove. Simple plastering should be abandoned, it does not give decent results even in dry rooms. Good results sometimes bring the use of decorative stone.

If the stove is not made of brick, but is delivered to order, you should choose the solution that matches the chosen style.

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Ventilation

Even the most durable and reliable materials will not last long if moisture stagnates inside. And the constant accumulation of stale air will not give anyone pleasure. All these problems are solved with the use of carefully thought-out ventilation. In most cases, the choice is made between supply and exhaust and natural systems. Self-circulation is ensured by placing the air inlet at a height of 0.5 m from the floor, and the air outlet at about the same distance below the ceiling.

It is possible to equip an outlet at the bottom only when using forced ventilation or a large ventilation pipe. The cold air inlet can be organized in the space behind the stove, and the outlet in the floor itself, if the basement is connected by ventilation to street air or other rooms. For baths built into the house, forced ventilation must always be used.

What to insulate?

It is unreasonable to blame high-quality and intensive air exchange for the lack of heat in the bath. Almost always, the real cause of the problem is weak and poor-quality insulation. In most cases, mineral wool slabs are used. Due to the large amount of air inside, they perfectly retain heat, and the high melting point allows you not to be afraid of a fire. Often the frame wall is insulated with reed slabs, which are environmentally friendly and perform their task well.

The cheapness of foamed synthetic materials and their lightness, resistance to moisture make such protective coatings one of the best. But it is important to understand that not all materials in this series are equally perfect. In addition, any such insulation is allowed to be used only where strong heating is excluded.

Thermal protection must be covered from contact with water and water vapor. Wet heaters quickly deteriorate and lose their positive qualities.

The classic approach to insulating furnaces and their surroundings involves the use of various asbestos materials to protect them. It can be used in the form of plates or canvases. But given the danger of asbestos fibers for humans, it is advisable to use other finishing methods:

• basalt fiber;
• isolon;
• needle-punched mats.

The heat in the bath can go not only through the walls; most of its leakage occurs through floors and ceilings. Expanded clay is sometimes used to create thermal protection inside them. In wall insulation, it is used less and less, because it is too heavy (500 kg per 1 m3) compared to publicly available counterparts. In addition, expanded clay is significantly inferior in terms of heat retention to both foam plastic and mineral wool, so the thickness of the insulating layer grows. And even though it slowly but steadily absorbs water, it turns out to be very difficult to dry the material.

The insulation of frame buildings with sawdust has a rather long history. They are absolutely safe in environmental and sanitary terms, but putting such thermal protection will not work quickly. Wood chips are used not only for insulation, but also as bedding for animals, fertilizer and in many other cases. Therefore, suppliers no longer give it away for free, but prefer to receive money for such a sought-after product. In a large city, sawdust is also sold in supermarkets, but there the price level is even higher than at sawmills.

Only hardwood shavings are suitable for work. The maximum allowable humidity is 20%, and it is better if it is even lower. Clean sawdust at construction sites has not been used for a long time, because they settle and form voids, a fungus may appear inside.

Be sure to treat the raw materials with boric acid or copper sulfate. The standard mixture also includes clay or cement (when finishing the ceiling), lime or gypsum.

The layer of sawdust under the floor should be at least 200 mm, and in the northern regions of the Russian Federation this figure can be increased by another 50%. Bulk laying involves mixing wood processing waste with binders, then the composition is poured into wood molds over which the floor is laid. The base is protected from moisture with kraft paper, polyethylene and similar materials. The composition is placed uniformly over the entire area, it has to be compacted only in rare cases. The final readiness of the insulation is achieved after two days.

Examples of finished buildings

Beautiful frame baths can be made in a variety of designs. This is what the design looks like with a not too steep roof pushed forward above the facade. In front of the door there is a kind of platform, on which you need to climb a small staircase. The design concept is clearly built in the spirit of maximum naturalness of the building. Many corner baths built using frame technology are finished with siding.

With proper execution, it is extremely difficult to distinguish them from simple log buildings. The modern approach to baths often involves the use of minimalist style. A striking example is shown in the photograph - there is only a canopy, a small ladder and clapboard-trimmed walls and a rectangular window. You can build such a structure with your own hands, moreover, in the shortest possible time. Using any of the presented varieties of washing is easy and convenient.

Do you love bathing enough to decide to make it yourself? If the desire to regularly receive excellent steam is really strong, and spending money on the services of contractors is not at all useful, then it makes sense to study the technology well and make a frame bath with your own hands. In fact, there is nothing daunting in this, but in terms of reliability and safety, it will in no way be inferior to the usual structures made of timber or rounded logs. All you need is to decide on the size, and a well-developed step-by-step instruction will help you avoid common mistakes.

Pros and cons

Competently use all the advantages and, if possible, level the existing shortcomings - perhaps this is the main task of a person who undertakes the independent construction of a frame bath. If you have studied and seen what disadvantages this material has, do not think that everything is so rosy with frame structures. Let's not mislead you: there are cons in every case, and therefore the best way to deal with them is to study them carefully. Actually, let's start with them.

Flaws

• possible shrinkage of the bath over time;
• the need for high-quality insulation and the associated increase in costs;
• material and time costs for finishing - both internal and external;
• careful care and careful operation.

It is no coincidence that we started with the minuses. So you will immediately see those pitfalls that involve the construction of a frame bath. And if, after getting to know them, they seem to you not as large cobblestones, but as small pebbles, then pay attention to the following advantages of the chosen type of building.

Advantages

• light construction does not require exhausting preparation of a solid foundation;
• retain heat well, but only with high-quality insulation;
• captivating cheapness of assembly;
• environmental friendliness and resistance to fluctuations in the earth's crust;
• the ability to build a frame bath in the shortest possible time, even in difficult weather conditions.

If the pros still outweigh the possible disadvantages, and you still want to build a bath of this type, then proceed to the next step.

Required materials with current prices

Tools

• square;
• level;
• drill;
• a hammer;
• pliers;
• screwdrivers;
• construction roulette;
• rails, etc.

Phased technology

When all the materials are purchased, and the tools are gathered in a pile and humbly waiting in the wings, it's time to move on to practical actions. And it's worth starting with a project. It is worth building a frame bath only after you have decided on layout. If you want to equip, for example, then reflect this desire in your working draft.

• what size plot do you have?
• do you want to separate the steam room and the sink?
• are you ready to sacrifice a rest room for the sake of extra meters in the dressing room and vestibule?

Find answers to all these questions - and then it will be easier for you to decide on the project of your frame bath. In addition, now the web is full of ready-made projects and drawings. It remains only to adjust the scale - and take the tools into your own hands. However, do not forget that you are based on the size of the area at your disposal. And it goes without saying that for complete comfort, you should take care of a certain usable area around the building. And in case of frequent use of the bath in the winter season, you should really ask yourself about veranda.

Foundation work

1. we drive in pegs around the perimeter of the proposed frame bath and make a moat approximately 0.6 meters deep, the width can be determined in each individual case, but not less than 0.4 meters;
2. we fill the vacated space with sand to approximately 1/3 of the entire depth and fill it with water on top, after which we carefully tamp;
3. we fall asleep prepared gravel, and on top - a layer of sand, which is then leveled with soil using a building level;
4. we make formwork from reinforcement and fill everything with concrete;
5. the final touch is insulation with the help of roofing material, and its thin layer is enough.

leave your foundation frame bath for at least a week - during this period it will settle well and “gain strength”.

Walling

1. dry the lumber prepared for the construction of the walls of the frame bath, it is best to choose linden or aspen, since these species have an excellent ability to retain heat;
2. after erecting a wooden frame, treat the inside of the boards used with any antiseptic, while the outside with varnish, and it is advisable to use at least 2 layers of it;
3. make a strapping from a bar and fix it from below;
4. fix the bars in each corner with ordinary nails and support them with metal racks so that they do not disturb their balance;
5. fill the base racks with concrete;
6. mount intermediate support posts, the same material that you use for the base structure is suitable for them;
7. decorate the floor by laying out the beam, give preference to a section of 0.15 meters.

Roof erection

1. select eight ceiling beams cut at a certain angle;
2. set the extreme rafters, and then fix a few more directly in the center;
3. arrange the rest through the ridge, fixing them to the capital structure from different sides;
4. the next step is the installation of vertical racks to improve the strength of the base;
5. if there is an attic in the frame bath that you make with your own hands, then think over the way out for it in advance;
6. those rafters that protrude beyond the edges are sequentially processed - we cut out the beams with our own hands, and then we nail the boards and fix the battens.

We insulate walls, floors, ceilings

1. one of the best options is mineral wool, but roofing material should be discarded, since during operation it can release harmful substances into the air and cause a nasty smell;
2. we lay the roll-type insulation between the vertical racks, and then we fix it with slats;
3. we have already protected the floor from moisture with a lined timber, and now we use expanded clay - it is cheap and perfectly retains heat;
4. you can use polystyrene foam to insulate the ceiling with your own hands, but you should protect it with a vapor barrier film - this way you will avoid an unpleasant smell and can extend the life of your frame bath.

Making windows and doors

If your project has openings for windows and doors, now is the time to fill them. Do not forget that both windows and doors must be securely sealed. In the intervals between using the frame bath, you should ventilate the room in the most thorough way.

Interior decoration

The logical final touch is a pleasant interior decoration frame bath. Making it with your own hands will not be difficult. Moreover, the guarantee of comfort is not only a reliable design and high-quality materials. It is also important to carry out competently finishing work so that each person feels as comfortable as possible in the bath and can fully relax. That's why:

1. the ceiling can be finished with coniferous upholstery - this not only looks spectacular, but also reliably protects materials from the bad effects of high temperatures;
2. the stove is finished with red ceramic brick or its fireclay version - this way the heat will remain much longer, and the air in the steam room will be wetter and more pleasant;
3. the walls are finished with clapboard - this is inexpensive, but very practical and, by the way, quite nice. You can use different types of lining, or better - its spectacular Euroversion.

Standard Solutions

In order to make it easier for you to prepare for the construction of a frame bath, we have collected for you the best projects and drawings that will help you cope with the task. These materials will perfectly help for DIY construction, if you are faced with the task of building both a rather modest 3x4 frame bath and a more spacious 3x6. Consider other popular options: 5x5, 6x6, 6x8. The division by building area will help you better navigate this variety of promising solutions.

5x5

6x6

6x8

3x6

3x4

Sometimes there is nothing better than the practical advice of an experienced specialist, which is backed up by appropriate visibility. Especially for those who do not have enough step-by-step instructions, projects, drawings and photos for building a frame bath, we offer some useful instructions in a popular video format.

Conclusion

It wasn't as difficult as you thought, was it? Still, after all, a frame bath is a project that even a beginner can handle with his own hands. But only if he was well prepared: he studied a lot of the necessary drawings, spied on cool ideas from the already implemented projects of frame baths with his own hands and already mentally imagined in his mind the image of the future structure. Even if it is a contour, but this is already something, because when you can mentally imagine the goal, the road to it is greatly simplified. And the step-by-step instructions for assembling a frame bath, which we presented in this material, will help you not to go astray and avoid those mistakes and problems that are almost always inevitable in matters of construction.

Photo: vk.com, banyabest.ru, forumhouse.ru, stroyday.ru.

The sequence of actions is as follows:

1. Waterproofing of the structure with roofing material.
2. Wall marking and laying out along the outer contours of the boards (outer side). You need to connect them to each other with nails.
3. Connection by means of basement piping supports. Horizontal laying control.
4. Insert log for subsequent flooring. The distance between them is about 0.5 m.
5. Treatment of the entire structure with a composition that prevents wood decay.

Advice. The strapping and logs can be attached to the foundation pipes using pre-walled metal plates. This will give additional strength to the future bath. Expanded clay blocks can be placed under the logs to strengthen the entire structure.

At this stage, it is advisable to start laying the floor. It can be wooden or concrete, leaking or not. It all depends on whether you are going to use the sauna only in the summer or all year round. In the first case, you can get by with a simple wooden flooring laid at intervals through which water escapes - this is the leaking structure. If you want to make a solid warm floor, then you must first equip the draft layer: stuff plywood on the logs, put an insulating film and insulation on top. Then you need to lay out the top, fine floor covering, and fix it with nails.

Advice. Boards for flooring must be processed in advance so that the smallest roughness does not cause discomfort for vacationers in the bath.

Wall building rules. Top framing and roofing

Before assembling the base of the bath - the frame - 2 conditions must be met:

• dry the material well;
• make markings for future frame racks.

After that, you can proceed with the installation:

1. Install 2 corner and several intermediate racks. The distance between them directly depends on the dimensions of windows and doors and should be: 40 cm - if docking with other walls and arrangement of the opening is planned; 60 cm - if adhesion to other walls is not provided.
2. Check if the structure is in the shape of a rectangle.
3. Sheathe the frame with particle boards (from the selected corner). Attach with screws.
4. Put a few more racks and sheathe them in the same way.
5. Make the top harness and attach it to the uprights.

Then you can proceed to the installation of the roof. Prepare bars 150x150 mm - these will be ceiling beams. Place them on the top trim, observing a distance of 0.5x0.6 m. Mount a temporary boardwalk 5 cm thick on top. Collect the rafters on the ground and install them on the roof. If the height of the roof ridge is small, then installation can be done directly at the top.

Advice. Before installing the last truss structure, mark the chipboards on it with which the gable will be sheathed.

Depending on what material you are going to use as a roofing, you need to decide on the appearance of the crate installed on the rafters:

• for iron or soft roofing (for example, roofing material), you need to make a continuous surface;
• for metal tiles, gaps with a distance of 35 cm are permissible;
• for slate or ondulin, you can take steps of 60 cm;
• when using natural tiles, you must first consider its size.

After installing the crate, you need to lay the coating, and then install the windows and doors.

Outside, the bath can be plastered, sheathed with boards or siding, inside - make an imitation of natural wood. The wall that separates the steam room from the rest room is best laid out with bricks - for fire safety purposes. It is not worth painting and varnishing the internal surfaces: due to the high temperature, they will begin to release toxins. Engage in construction thoroughly - and the bath will serve you for many years.

Construction of a frame bath: video

Frame bath: photo

To build a Russian bath, or rather to assemble a frame structure for yourself, is not a difficult and even interesting business. But you can’t do it on your own, because any private construction requires at least one partner.

With a frame structure, the number of auxiliary workers is directly related to the speed of construction, so we will tell you in detail how to quickly plan the frame, select materials and drawings.

Let's start with a project

Let's calculate the footage offhand: what family or company in terms of number will visit the building? The standard for an average family is a design of 4x6 or 3x6 meters. We look:

Classic for a healthy holiday.

Terrace option:

Classic, compact 4X3:

We organize the basis

Having decided on the project, we proceed to. Naturally, we make the excavation required in width and depth.

Important! It is the tape type of the base that is needed only for the washing part and the steam room.

It is more profitable to put a dressing room, a rest room or a terrace on metal supports or poles.

It makes sense to make a tape type foundation if you plan to make more than one floor. After all, the design will be heavier several times.

In some cases, on the contrary, they save on everything, including the support. The frame is assembled on what is necessary. Such a building will begin to dampen in the first season! But it is allowed to make such foundations for the frame:

• Tape;
• Columnar;
• Wood;
• Reinforced;
• Screw;
• Block or brick.

The normal base is done like this:

1. Clean and level the area.
2. Mark the points of the pillars and the plane of the trenches.
3. Digging holes or trenches.
4. Provide waterproofing.
5. Pouring concrete solution.
6. Grillage is being cooked.

Advice! It is customary to determine the specific type of foundation by the kidney. Indeed, in the swamp, even a tape with reinforcement will soon “float”.

Considering a drain system

Yes, sometimes they just prepare a foundation pit under the building, but if the room is used several times a week, then it is advisable to figure out the drain by type:

Cost fixture. But otherwise, stagnation of dirty water cannot be avoided, especially in winter.

Usually they dig right under the washing room, but the design does not always allow it to withstand the size, and it is impossible to pump out an excess of waste.

Remember to insulate floors

The future building is almost in the open air, a draft will definitely go down your legs if you do not provide warm floors in the dry parts of the Russian frame-type bath. It is advisable to do this:

1. We nail a beam on the logs. A section of 5x5 cm is sufficient.
2. We put on it rough plank floor.
3. Above the boards is a must we lay roofing material.
4. insulation(mineral wool, expanded polystyrene).
5. Laying a clean floor.

For a wet area (sink, steam room) is required closed foundation. In the process of laying the flooring, it is necessary to maintain a distance between the boards, and 1 cm is enough. The boards soaked with moisture should be nailed, but not to the frame or base. Metal supports are specially provided for them, otherwise the building will rot.

Assembling the frame

Step by step process:

1. Starting with the bottom strap. We fasten on anchor bolts, but it is advisable to add a steel bracket to each connection - it will not be superfluous.
2. We put poles on the strapping. Fastening - 2 bolts.
3. In the interim install corner posts. It is more convenient to use a steel corner for even and reliable fixation.
4. Next, we put intermediate stands. It is better to maintain a distance of 50-60 cm.
5. Finishing top harness and permanent jibs for rigidity.
6. Finish - beam ceilings and rafter legs.

We organize the walls and their insulation correctly

Suitable for work only dried wood.

For your information: do not use birch timber or boards. This material rots the fastest.

Inside we sheathe with hardwood, and outside - with pine or larch.

The very process of creating walls can be performed both on the frame and by the shield method, with the subsequent lifting of each block onto the “skeleton” of the bath. Moreover, the outer part must be treated with antiseptic agents. The interior part is polished and impregnated with compositions resistant to temperature extremes (mordant, for example).

We always start with warming, we work like this:

It's important to know! Never use varnish on the inside. It produces harmful fumes when exposed to temperature changes.

They usually begin to mount the insulation not from the walls, but from the roof. But for this, we first make a truss system. What next.

How to properly assemble the roof on the frame

Required material for work: board 15x5. We put it on the edge and fix it. We maintain a distance between the boards of 10-15 centimeters. We collect the so-called "triangles" and connect them with a bar.

For floor beams, an important condition is that a protrusion of no more than half a meter from the level of the walls must be maintained. At the very end, we arrange a crate of unedged boards (thickness no more than 2.5 cm). We put alternately from top to bottom, starting from the ridge.

Our "triangles" or "kerchiefs" are measured like this:

Advice! It is easier to assemble parts of the truss system separately, on the surface of the earth, and only then raise it to the frame.

For the roof we take soft tiles or metal tiles. Last resort corrugated board. But before that, you need to do warming. We work from the outside, starting with the following list of materials:

1. Vapor barrier.
2. Insulation.
3. Wind and moisture protective membrane.
4. Tiling or profiled sheet.

Note! Three items from the list are perfect for working with the walls of the bath.

More about the gable version of the roof on the frame:

Construction of floors, roofs with explanations.

The work is done in sectors between the rafters. And after installing the protective membrane put counter-lattice with tiles. Landmark example:

What to take in wall decoration besides wood

It is now more profitable, more beautiful and sometimes faster to use modern materials for cladding. And with good lumber, with such an abundance of competitive goods, it is more difficult.

We take for a frame bath:

• Lining;
• Thermal panels;
• Brick facing;
• Vinyl siding;
• Block house.

More about the couple

This is the most important room, since the microclimate in the steam room is the very essence of the building. To do this, we increase the amount of insulation. If a layer of 10 cm went on the walls, ceiling or roof, then at least 15 centimeters are needed for the steam room. It is also important that steam residue (condensate) does not accumulate inside the walls, therefore no heat insulator.

Acquire necessarily foil and we mount it so that the foil layer is outward, that is, it “looks” into the steam room itself. And already on top of the insulation and heat insulator, it is necessary to use linden. It doesn't matter if there is a lining or a regular board. The main thing is that wood fibers are good. We do not treat with varnish and paint in any case.

How best to equip the oven

It is good if you can heat up the bath and wash at the same time. Therefore, a stove made of stone, iron or brick is placed as a firebox in a washing room or dressing room, and the main structure is closer to the steam room.

Moreover, it is better to equip stoves for country frame baths with two water tanks at once in order to save money.

To build such a heating element is very simple. You will need:

• sheet metal;
• welding machine;
• a pair of taps;
• pipe;
• stones.

And a primitive potbelly stove will perfectly heat the stones to a high temperature. It is this design that will not burn out for a long time, because the temperatures from the iron frame of the furnace go to the tanks and stones. There is simply nothing to heat up to red.

Don't forget about the dresser

For frame type construction, a dressing room is a room of a classic Russian temporary bathhouse. They always saved on this “half-room” by simply attaching an impromptu shed made of boards to a 3 by 3 log house. Although now the frame project of a 3 m by 6 m bath already implies an insulated rest room for half the area.

So there are two types:

1. Warm. Requires insulation of all areas - from floor to ceiling. It is advisable to put on a strip foundation. You also need to take care of ventilation. And for this, they usually buy asbestos pipes of 10-15 cm in addition and make an exhaust hood. Provide comfort at any time of the year.
2. Cold. Ordinary outbuilding. This type is very convenient for the summer summer period, since the lightweight design is naturally ventilated. The work does not require a lot of expensive material. And it’s not difficult to assemble for a frame bath with your own hands and in a short time.

Both types can be beautifully presented by completing the interior decoration. But for winter holidays and Epiphany bathing, the cold option is excluded. In the dressing rooms it is customary to place benches, beds, a table and several hangers for inventory.

Conveniently, from the very threshold, it is through the dressing room that you can bring in or pump water, as well as heat the stove.

First we think, then we act

The construction of a frame bath is not an imitation of Western technologies. After all, you can always add an ordinary modest log cabin for a steam room to part of the plan, and make the rest of the area from modern material.

The main thing is that everything should be according to technology, otherwise the walls will begin to “collect” moisture. Therefore, it is not worth neglecting some material in order to save money - repairs will be much more expensive.

Frame bath from a bar:

Sufficiently durable and at the same time inexpensive construction option. The author used everything that can be adapted for budget construction.

Building a frame bath with your own hands is as easy as shelling pears. And if it is also competently insulated and isolated from moisture, you can end up with a steam room, almost in no way inferior to either brick architectural masterpieces or massive structures made of logs. And our article will tell you in detail about how to build a frame bath with your own hands: videos, photos and step-by-step guides - everything is for you!

Note that frame baths are built with their own hands much easier than or - no drawings, no serious foundation, no expensive materials are needed. Everything is so simple that even a schoolboy can cope with the work. The main thing is to know how and what to do.

In terms of construction, a frame bath has a valuable advantage that, due to its lightness, it does not shrink, which cannot be avoided by chopped steam baths. But the minus is in the humidity during snow and rain, which is able to penetrate into all the cracks and accumulates inside the frame. This is the problem that needs to be addressed first.

Stage I. We design

So, using frame technology, you can build both a small steam room for a steam room and a dressing room, and a two-story country house-bath. It all depends on your imagination and financial capabilities!

For a small frame bath, you will need to make a simple strip or column foundation, purchase a dry beam with a section of at least 20x20 for racks and an edged board:

For a frame bath, where there will be at least three rooms, an unpretentious foundation made of timber is no longer enough:

Optionally, in order to save building materials, you can make a dressing room separately, like an attached veranda, then there will be enough space inside for a steam room and a washing room:

But abroad, the frame construction of entire two-story houses is quite popular. Naturally, a reliable foundation is also needed here (more on this below), and the material is good:

Or make your bath more spacious in area, instead of the second floor:

Why is this option better? The fact is that frame baths are the most fireproof. And the worst option is if you and your friends are in the billiard room on the second floor during a fire. The fire rises quickly, and you simply have to jump into the snow - this time not for reasons of health and extremism after heated procedures. But if it's summer...

Stage II. We build the foundation

The construction of the simplest frame bath with your own hands usually does not require the preliminary manufacture of a foundation due to its lightness. But, if you do not want the walls to become damp, then you still have to do the foundation.

Wooden beam: for a mini-bath

If your bath will be 3x4 at most, and the walls with the roof are planned to be light, then you can put a simple wooden foundation, securing it with stakes on the sides:

Such a foundation is especially good for capricious clay soils that do not suffer from excess moisture, but are seasonally mobile.

Columnar: for high groundwater

But for construction on uneven and heterogeneous soil, where groundwater is located quite close, it is more suitable:

To build such a foundation, you will not need any equipment or an additional construction team. It is enough to arm yourself with a drill, asbestos or plastic pipes, and be able to knead cement. Then we move on to these steps:

• Step 1. Align the area.
• Step 2. We mark the location of future pillars.
• Step 3. We drill holes and make waterproofing at the bottom of each of them.
• Step 4. Gradually pour concrete and carefully raise the pipe.
• Step 5. At the level of 20-30 cm, we fix the pipe, waiting for the concrete to harden, and reinforce it.
• Step 6. As soon as the base hardens, we fill the pipe with concrete to the end.
• Step 7. We form a grillage - using an ordinary strong beam.

Economical and simple, which is what you need for a frame bath. And here is what further construction on such a foundation looks like:

Block foundation: under a light bath

For a bath of medium architecture, where a heavy stove will stand and far from one person will walk, a strong one is well suited:

But it is allowed to build such a foundation only on the ground where the freezing depth does not exceed one meter.

Pile-screw: for complex soils

You cannot do without this type of foundation if you are building a solid frame bath (or even a bath-house), and the depth of soil freezing is low. Then you will have to get to a more solid foundation. This is a fairly simple technology, and you can usually get by with a labor force of four people:

• Step 1. We mark the places of future piles.
• Step 2. We drill holes of the required length, which we calculate based on the obtained soil data.
• Step 3 We put the piles and gradually screw them into the ground.
• Step 4. We collect and fix the strapping.

Belt: for reliable soils

If the soil on the site is heaving, then it is better to opt for a simple one. In order to build such a foundation, you need to do the following:

• Step 1. Planning is being carried out at the chosen place, and a trench is already being dug along it - about 40 cm wide and 50 cm deep.
• Step 2. The trench must be filled with sand to ground level and compacted in layers, constantly pouring water for better shrinkage.
• Step 3. We put the formwork - 50 cm high and 30 cm wide.
• Step 4. The base in the formwork must be reinforced with metal pipes and bars - for strength.
• Step 5. Now you can pour concrete - either in one go, or in layers, but without allowing the previous layer to dry.
• Step 6. On top of everything you need to put roofing material - for waterproofing frame walls.

See a photo of how it's done:

And here is how the construction of a small frame bath on such a foundation looks like:

You will have to think about the prefabricated strip foundation if you are going to build a fairly large frame bath:

The essence of such a foundation is to create the most reliable support on any type of soil, except for floating ones.

Stage III. Installing and insulating floors

In short, to make the floors in the frame bath, to the bottom of their lag in the rest room, and in the steam room, and in the dressing room, you need to nail bars with a section of 5x5 cm, and on top of them - lay subfloor boards, then - roofing material, and finally - mineral wool 10 cm thick or expanded polystyrene. And already under the clean floor boards, glassine should be laid for vapor barrier:

In the washing floor, you need to do it differently:

• Step 1. So, in order for it to be always warm in cold times and dry quickly, a separate foundation must be made around its entire perimeter.
• Step 2. Next, remove the soil layer by half a meter, and pour gravel and sand into the resulting pit for 10 cm of the layer. If water gets into such a drainage well, it will go into the ground, and there will be no need to make a pit.
• Step 3 As a log for such a floor, it is best to use asbestos-cement pipes with a diameter of 10 cm, which are placed directly on the foundation and poured with concrete to keep them from moving.
• Step 4. Then, in the washing room, a rounded edged board 4-5 cm thick is laid on the pipes, but with a gap of 6-7 millimeters with rubber gaskets that are nailed.
• Step 5. After all this, the floor can be pressed with skirting boards.

More details on the video:

Stage IV. We raise the walls

So, the foundation is ready, and we can safely proceed to the construction of the walls of the frame bath. As you have already noticed for yourself from our schemes, there is nothing complicated here.

So, even before you start building walls, it is important to carefully make sure that the prepared wood is well dried. And it can be almost any breed (except from birch, which quickly rots) - linden, larch or aspen, whose thermal conductivity is low, and the structure retains its shape for a long time. Moreover, it is pine and larch that are best suited for external cladding, and any other type of wood for internal cladding, the most healing of which is aspen.

Outside, all the boards will need to be coated with the Texturol antiseptic at the end of construction, and it is advisable to sand the lining inside and cover it in two layers with furniture varnish. In addition to washing and steam rooms, special impregnation would be appropriate there.

We build walls right on the foundation

So, it is most reliable to make the lower harness from a strong beam, for example, with a section of 10x10 cm, connecting it in the corners to a quarter and fastening it well with nails. In order for the lower trim and the installed corner posts not to move, they must be placed on 2 cm steel pins, which are embedded in concrete. Exactly the same timber can be used for the upper strapping. And in order for the frame of the bath to turn out to be sufficiently rigid, it is advisable to put 8 braces in the corners.

On the walls, now you need to install intermediate racks of beams with the same section - 10x10 cm. And you can put logs for the floor, which are well suited for paired boards with section parameters of 15x5 cm, which can be placed directly on the foundation waterproofing.

We raise the finished walls

Sometimes it is more convenient to build and fasten the frame walls on the ground, and then simply raise them:

What exactly is more convenient? At least the fact that there is no need to work with your hands above your head, and they do not get so numb. Plus, walls and foundations can be built at the same time if several people work for you.

And it’s certainly more convenient to raise ready-made frame walls if you are building a two-story bath:

Stage V. We build a truss system

It is best to build floor beams and rafters of a frame bath from boards with a section of 15x5 cm, placing them on edge and fastening them together. As a result, the distance between the rafters should be 10x12 cm. In a vertical position, they must be fixed with “kerchiefs”, and from above - connected to each other with the same section with a ridge beam. The beams must be let out at a distance of 40 cm. And for this, the crate itself can be made from a board 25 cm thick, laying it directly from the ridge.

And to fasten roof trusses even on the ground today, special metal plates are used:

Agree, it’s easier to assemble the truss structure right on the ground, then lifting it up and already installing it ready. Especially when it comes to the frame bath.

And, finally, soft tiles are most suitable as roofing if the bath is light and on a conditional foundation, and metal tiles, if we are talking about a more serious building.

If you do not have an attic, then be sure to insulate the roof from the outside:

Stage VI. We decorate the walls with modern materials

And now - to the most interesting part of the construction of a frame bath. We're not leaving her in the RSD, are we? Of course, it's time to pick up a "fur coat" for her.

But painting with paint and plastering are not the only options for exterior finishes that a frame bath can have: reviews of experienced summer residents say that it doesn’t matter, its design is so simple - from the outside it is quite possible to give it an expensive and chic look. And the modern construction market offers a sea of ​​​​finishes for such buildings, the most successful of them for the bath will be the following.

clapboard

Decorative and imitation lining is the simplest and most affordable way to upholster frame baths on the outside: such structures turn out to be very solid, and it’s not a shame to show them to acquaintances and friends, inviting them to a bath broom and barbecue in nature.

It is necessary to place the lining on the outer wall horizontally, and having previously placed glassine waterproofing under the upholstery. At the same time, fasten the whole sheets with an overlap, gluing all the edges with adhesive tape - it is important to do this operation carefully so that unnecessary moisture does not occur in the bath.

Thermal panels

The traditional construction of a frame bath still provides for mandatory wall insulation, so why not do this with the help of thermal panels? At their core, they are a three-layer structure with insulation - mineral wool or foam, enclosed between two PVC layers. Their outer surface is usually made in the form of masonry and sprinkled with compressed stone chips.

At the same time, the panels themselves have mutual grooves, and therefore form a monolithic pattern of a stone or brick wall. And you can make such a finish in the bath with the most common self-tapping screws that will fix the panels to the profiles on the facades.

Facing brick

Brick, even masonry fits perfectly into any landscape of a summer cottage. And it always looks very beautiful in the bath, and to overlay the frame structure with bricks and lay it clean out of it - completely different things, both in terms of labor costs and price. And between the facing brickwork and wooden frame walls, you can lay additional insulation, slightly changing the traditional "pie", but without losing anything.

Vinyl siding

Siding is the lightest and most popular material for sheathing frame baths. It's not expensive and it's surprisingly easy to install. And the variety of colors, textures and thickness cannot but rejoice.

Block house

For those owners who have dreamed of a beautiful log bath all their lives, but have built only a frame sauna on the site so far, there is good news - with the help of the latest material for finishing the block house, it will now be impossible to distinguish a steam room from a real log house from the outside:

Stage VII. Warming and vapor barrier

Let's get to the interior work. The typical arrangement of a frame bath is such that the worst thing for it is the accumulation of moisture at a time when the air temperature is high inside the structure, and it is winter outside. That's why you can't do without a vapor barrier. The easiest option is a plastic film under the inner lining.

Especially carefully you need to approach the process of sheathing the steam room. High-quality vapor barrier is also needed here - aluminum foil, glassine, vapor barrier film, etc. But it is worth remembering that roofing felt and roofing material in this room will emit a specific smell when heated.

So, on the advice of experienced builders, it is best to insulate the walls of a frame bath with a rolled “Ursoy”, the thickness of which is 50 mm. It should be laid between vertical posts, nailing slats to them along the way. In some places, the insulation can also be nailed to the outer boards, but only with special nails with a rubber washer under the head.

If everything is done this way, then you get such a puff cake of the walls of the bath:

• lining external;
• glassine;
• insulation;
• polyethylene film;
• lining internal.

The main thing is that an air gap of 5 cm thick remains inside the walls - this is important.

But special attention must be paid to the steam room - the so-called "thermos effect" is important here. Therefore, it is better to lay the heat insulator with foil inside the room, and in the ceiling you need to use not only the Ursa foil, but also another 5 cm of ordinary insulation.

And the walls and ceiling of the steam room are best finished with healing aspen lining; poplar or tongue-and-groove linden boards are also suitable.

And, finally, the construction technology of a frame bath must necessarily provide for high-quality ventilation. For a small bath, an asbestos cement exhaust pipe with a diameter of 12 cm is quite suitable - so that the steam room does not smell like mold. It is enough to bring the pipe itself to the attic, and during bathing procedures and a hot firebox, hot air through the gap under the door will enter the sink, and the exhaust ventilation will climb through the floor cracks and thus the feet in this room will always be warm.

The main thing is to show imagination and remember that a budget bath using frame technology does not mean ugly or uncomfortable. In the hands of the masters, as they say, everything is arguable!