The floor in the washing room - the washing department of the bath. We make the floor in the washing department of the bath with our own hands Put the floor in the washing bath yourself

The floors in the bath are not at all a trifle, as it might seem initially. The way they are installed differs from the technologies used in residential premises, primarily in that bath floors are part of the sewer system. With proper installation, the bath compartments will be dry, despite the constant humidity in these rooms. And this means the absence of mold, fungus and a long service life of this institution, which is cult for all Russians. There are different methods of flooring in the bath, so you need to choose an acceptable one and adapt it to your building. Bath floors can be made independently, you just need to have a general understanding of the principles of their installation and the differences between the schemes.

Laying floors in the washroom

Washing area, perhaps, the main room of the bath. Here, between short visits to the steam room, visitors spend most of their time.

In the washing compartment, water constantly flows in large volumes, which is why maximum attention should be paid to the arrangement of this bath area. Especially when laying floors, since they are the most exposed to moisture and temperature changes, it depends on them whether the washroom will be comfortable and warm or uncomfortable and cold.

There is always a lot of water in the washing room, so the floors should be well ventilated and dry quickly.

The high humidity of this room puts forward special requirements for flooring so that they do not collapse in a fairly short time. Washroom floors should:

• resist thermal shocks and do not let in a draft;
• be breathable and dry quickly;
• ensure normal ventilation, free outflow of water, acceptable temperature of the floor covering.

With these requirements in mind, the owner of the bath must consider all types of floors and choose the most suitable one. Moreover, it is necessary to decide on the materials for the floor even before pouring the screed.

Floor structures for washing

The temperature of the surface of the bath floor rarely exceeds 30 °C, because the floor should be warm, not hot, pleasant even for bare feet, and not so that even bath slippers will melt. Therefore, you can use any material for its assembly - wood, tile, clay, concrete and others.

Do not use synthetic coatings. Chemistry has no place where high temperature and humidity are present.

Every floor covering has its pros and cons:

Consider the most common options for bath floors.

Wooden floor in the washroom

Hardwood and coniferous lumber is suitable for its arrangement: cedar, spruce, oak, ash, larch, fir. It is better to choose softwoods, since the resin they produce significantly increases the life of the floors. In addition, the tree has a healing effect on the body, and wet wooden flooring does not slip, and this is additional safety for visitors.

The advantages of wooden floors include:

• simplicity and ease of installation;
• naturalness, environmental friendliness and durability;
• low labor cost.

The disadvantages are the following:

If you settled on wooden floors, then you should know that, depending on the drain device, they are of two types: leaking and non-leaking structures.

In turn, leaking floors differ in the laying pattern:

Consider the sequence of work for the installation of leaking floors.

1. A hole is dug in the middle of the basement.
2. A trench breaks from its bottom in the direction of the drain cuvette, in which a sewer (drainage) pipe is laid with an inclination towards the water collector by about 3–4 ° (approximate difference in height over the entire trench is 5 cm per linear meter).

   The sewer pipe for draining water is laid with a slope towards the water intake

3. The foundation of the bath is being erected and waterproofed.
4. After that, along the entire border of the subfloor, from the walls of the base (or pillars), the earth is again taken out with a slope of 10 ° towards the dug hole.
5. Then the slope slopes are covered with crushed stone and well compacted (for greater strength, a reinforcing mesh with cells of the order of 80x80 mm can be laid on top of the crushed stone). Everything is poured with a dense concrete mortar, which is leveled and smoothed. To reduce the cost of work, well-mixed clay can be used instead of concrete. It is laid out with a 10-centimeter layer, leveled and, as it dries, moistened with water and smoothed.
6. Further, the walls of the foundation, if this is provided for by the technology, are tied with a metal belt and beam structures treated with an antiseptic are mounted. The lower coronal rungs are attached to the harness, and if there is none, then to the walls of the base with the help of anchors or studs).

   Sexual logs in the bath do not need to be cut into the crown crown, then they can be easily replaced if necessary

7. Floor boards with gaps are laid on the floor beams. The thickness of the boards depends on the distance between the joists, but should not be less than 20 mm.

   Simple and reliable floors with slots for draining water are quickly installed and easily replaced with new ones

Often, the boards are not attached to the beam vault, but are connected to each other with a bar and ready-made shields are simply placed on top. The beam must be located among the floor beams. Such shields are very convenient to take out to dry.

The scheme of equipment for non-leaking floors is not much different from the one described above in principle, although it is more difficult to implement. The difference is that the boards are laid without gaps on the rough flooring, for which second-grade wood is quite suitable.

For such floors, the logs are deepened into a concrete or clay layer (possibly into the soil itself), waterproofing is laid on top, sealed with a sealant. The space between the lags is filled with insulation. The draft floor is made with a slope towards the grated drain hole, through which water from the washing room enters the sewer network or sewage pit and is covered with polyethylene, then a wooden flooring is mounted.

In the arrangement of non-leaking floors, water flows into a specially equipped hole along an inclined plane

It is impossible to disassemble such floors for drying, so you need to provide excellent ventilation so that the wooden floor of a leak-proof structure does not rot ahead of time. This is its minus, but the non-leaking assembly is more durable and durable and provides for the possibility of a heating device to ensure maximum comfort from water procedures even in severe frosts.

Under the finish coating of a non-leaking floor, heating can be arranged

The choice of materials for the drain device

Let's say right away that it is impossible to save on materials for arranging floors in a washroom. You need to choose the best, modern ones that will be effective for years. To create a sewage system, it is necessary to use plastic building materials that do not corrode, are resistant to getting wet, are easy to assemble and operate without losing their qualities for more than 50 years.

These can be pipes made of PVC, HDPE, PVC (chlorinated polyvinyl chloride), polypropylene or corrugated polyethylene products. Any of them are perfect for an internal drainage device in a bath.

The diameter of the pipes is selected according to the intensity of use of the bath:

• if a steam room, sauna, toilet (i.e., several drain points) are provided, then pipes Ø 100–110 mm will be required;
• without the use of plumbing, only pipes Ø 50 mm are enough to drain water.

Material calculation and tools

To organize an internal drain in the washing department, you need:

• pipes Ø 110 or Ø 50 - the amount is calculated depending on the length of the drainage network;
• adapters from Ø 50 to Ø 110 for connecting pipes of different diameters;
• tees 110x110x90 and elbow 90° - 3 pieces each;
• vertical pipes for water inlets (Ø 110 or Ø 50);
• cement, crushed stone and sand.

Materials are purchased according to the chosen installation method. The same applies to tools. But in any case, you will need:

• building level;
• Bulgarian;
• bayonet shovel.

Concrete floor in washroom

Concrete flooring is the most common due to its low cost and ease of installation.

After hardening, you can make flooring from cork slabs or wooden gratings and install a drain.

For safety reasons, it is better not to cover the concrete floor with tiles or lay wooden lattice panels on top.

Other types of floors in the washroom

Those who revere old bathing traditions equip an earthen floor in the washroom. The process of laying it is extremely simple - cut off the top layer of the earth by about 15 cm around the entire perimeter of the room and tamp the remaining earth.

If you really respect the customs of your ancestors, then you need to dig a foundation pit half a meter deep and fill it with a mixture of fine sand and gravel. If desired, boards can be laid on top.

Previously, the floors in the bath were arranged directly on the ground, after cutting off its top layer and ramming the base

We have already talked about the clay floor, but despite all the advantages of the clay itself, such a floor has a big drawback - the clay dries poorly, and when it dries, it forms cracks into which water seeps. As a result of this, a persistent unpleasant marsh odor appears in the washing room over time.

In a word, wood would be the best choice, although it can be combined with other materials.

Video: do-it-yourself correct floors in a washing bath

Floor covering in the washing room

The floor is ready, it's time to think about protecting it. Everyone knows about the antiseptic, you should not neglect it and save on it. They process wooden elements even before the start of the main work, otherwise the wooden flooring can be ruined. The antiseptic does not change the texture of wood, does not contain heavy metals and harmful salts, and perfectly protects wooden components from biological damage.

It is also recommended to use a good varnish. Before applying it, you need to prepare the surface well. It must be clean, free of grease, polished to a mirror finish and dry. The varnish is applied in several layers, after it has completely dried, the bath must be heated and ventilated.

Lacquer must be applied to a previously sanded and well-cleaned surface.

Floors can be painted. Only the paint must be of the highest quality and absolutely harmless when heated.

In addition, there are folk remedies for flooring - the use of waste after processing sunflower oil. They are applied with a roller on a thoroughly cleaned and dried surface. Repeat 2-3 times at intervals of three days. Such a coating is safe, gives the wood a beautiful shade, and besides, it will cost almost free.

If the floor in the bath is concrete, then it must be covered with a finishing material, since by itself it looks unattractive. They cover the concrete floor with a massive floor board, porcelain stoneware or ceramic slabs, parquet, cork products.

In principle, any material is suitable, as long as it meets all safety rules. And the rest, it all depends on the intended design, on the personal preferences of the owner of the bath and on his financial capabilities.

Laying the floor in the steam room

Although the steam room is the heart of the bath, the floors in it, surprisingly, are the least significant segment of the entire bath project. The main thing here is the wall partitions and the ceiling. Remember how primitive everything was with our great-grandfathers. They threw plank blocks or split logs on the ground, and this was enough to take a bath with pleasure even in areas with severe winters. Cold feet? Splashed hot water and everything. No one complained and health was excellent.

Therefore, too much attention should not be paid to laying the floors in the steam room. Some advise equipping floors with insulation, vapor barrier and rough flooring in the steam room. Of course, this is very modern, but for a steam room it will be a waste of money.

As practice shows, a simple scheme for arranging floors in a bath is the best

And why drive moisture deep into the wood. It is much better and easier to create conditions for the free passage of water, and then take care of drying and ventilation. And it is much more important to make the floors in the steam room non-slip to avoid injury.

If the steam room is combined with the washing department, then there is no structural difference between them, everything is common and the same, the floors in this case are equipped according to the methods described above.

When the steam room is a separate area and there is no need to drain a large amount of water, then the floor is laid from an edged board with small chamfers (deck board). The slots may be slightly narrower.

The deck board is made from larch and therefore resists moisture well.

It is much easier with concrete floors - they are made in the same way as in all sections of the bath. A wooden ladder is certainly laid on top, since a bare bare concrete slab is not very pleasant.

The arrangement of the floor in the steam room, as, indeed, in the entire bath, is an excellent indicator: if it is cold in the bath after laying it, then look at the ceiling, most likely, there are problems with vapor barrier there.

What to make the floor in the steam room from: choosing the best material

Of course, wood is out of competition:

And what absolutely cannot be used for floors in a steam room is linoleum, chipboard and fiberboard. Wood boards ignite easily, and non-natural materials are capable of releasing hazardous substances at high temperatures.

Concrete floor equipment in the steam room

It is advisable to purchase all the necessary building materials from one manufacturer. This will add strength to the entire structure as a whole. Need to buy:

• edge tape;
• sand, cement M200 or 300 and gravel;
• primer, roofing felt and dry mix of self-leveling screed.

Tools for the job

To complete the entire process of equipping the floor in the steam room, you will need:

• protective equipment for eyes and hands;
• bayonet shovel and building level;
• a basin for mixing a solution or a bucket;
• concrete mixer and mixer;
• rollers (needle and primer);
• rules and construction trowel;
• gas burner for soldering roofing material.

Step-by-step instructions for laying a concrete floor in a steam room

1. Solution preparation. You will need a concrete mixer in which the components of the solution are placed - sand, cement grade 200 or 300 and gravel in a ratio of 2: 1: 3. It does not make sense to use other brands of cement (higher ones), this will only increase the cost of the work. Add water and bring to the desired consistency.

   To prepare the solution, sand, gravel, cement and water are used.

2. Subfloor fitting. The soil in the steam room is covered with roofing material cut into sheets, and the seams are soldered with a gas burner. It is needed as a waterproofing agent. A 10-cm concrete layer is applied over the roofing material with a construction trowel, after which the entire screed is leveled to the level using the rule. When the solution is completely dry, proceed to the next step.

   After the pouring is completed, the concrete layer must be leveled with the rule

3. Final alignment. Literally to the millimeter, the final leveling of the concrete layer is done. For this, a self-leveling compound is used. Before laying it, the surface is cleaned of debris and dust, and then primed. The primer is applied with a conventional roller.
4. Application of self-levelling screed. Along the entire length of the steam room, the bottom of the wall is glued with edge tape. This is done so that the screed does not stick to the wall and does not burst in the future. The dry self-levelling mixture is diluted with water in the proportions indicated on the package and mixed with a mixer until smooth. Following this, it is evenly poured over the entire surface and leveled with a spiked roller to remove air bubbles.
5. Finishing work. The floor filled with a self-leveling screed is left to dry and only then proceed to the finishing work.

Video: pouring the screed in the bath with your own hands

Floor covering in the steam room

Some people believe that no impregnation should be used in the steam room, arguing that the bath should give health, and not emit harmful fumes at high temperatures. It's hard to disagree with this. But there is another side of the coin - physical wear and tear and decay.

Not only the wood with which the steam room is sheathed needs protection, but even the concrete floor screed loses its properties over the years. Plus, untreated, it accumulates dust that lovers of hot steam breathe.

If this is of little concern to the owner of the bath and he is ready to change the lining of the steam room (including replacing or repairing the floor) every 5 years, then, of course, no impregnations and oils. Otherwise, it is necessary to do the treatment of the steam room and it is advisable to use natural wax and oils for this, specially designed for saunas and steam rooms.

Linseed oil emphasizes the structure of wood, creates a protective film on its surface and does not emit harmful substances when heated.

Concrete floor screed can be treated with organic and inorganic impregnations. This will increase the wear resistance of concrete, prevent excessive accumulation of dust. But it is necessary to apply impregnations in a steam room thoughtfully, carefully studying the instructions and composition.

There are many schemes for arranging floors in the washroom and steam room. All of them are accessible and understandable. They can be implemented independently. You can even apply several technologies at the same time, such a combination will give good drainage and a flat surface. But as practice shows, the technology that is simpler is better. Good luck and light steam.

The floor in the washing room is always made with a mandatory slope of the surface to the drain hole. This allows you to effectively remove water from the room and does not allow moisture to linger on the floor for a long time. The task of arranging the slope of the entire plane to one point is solved in various ways and the choice of a method depends on the design of a particular bath. If this is a building on a strip foundation, then a warm concrete or insulated wooden floor with ceramic granite tiles is more often used. In baths on screw piles and columnar foundations, it is more preferable to use a wooden pouring floor.

If a tape structure is used as a base, then both a wooden pouring floor and concrete floors on the ground can be made. Consider an example of making a warm floor based on a screed finished with ceramic tiles.

Preparation of communications for draining is carried out even at the stage before pouring the concrete tape. The main thing here is to observe the slope of the pipe at least 2-3 cm per meter. The optimal location of the drain hole is in the center of the room, since the water drain organized at this point will provide the most efficient collection of drains from the entire floor surface.

If there is a fertile layer of earth under the future floor, then it should be completely removed and sprinkled with a layer of sand 15-20 cm thick. Then this layer is spilled with water and compacted with a manual rammer. When the surface is leveled and dense enough, a 50 mm thick extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) insulation is laid on top of the sand.

Small sections of heat-insulating plates are installed along the perimeter, after which foil waterproofing is laid on them. The joints between the strips of material are glued with foil waterproofing tape so that the waterproofing layer is completely sealed and does not let moisture into the insulation.

Further, low objects are laid out on the hydrobarrier, on which a metal mesh is installed to reinforce the future concrete slab. A heated floor heating tape is attached to the grid with a wire and this entire structure is poured with a concrete solution 10 cm thick.

As a finishing coating on a concrete screed, porcelain tiles are usually glued.

Thanks to the active underfloor heating system installed in the concrete slab, it will be comfortable to use such a sink even in the cold season.

Pouring wooden floor in the bath on stilts

The floors in the bath on piles require careful observance of the installation technology, since improper ventilation of the underground space leads to the rapid decay of wooden structural elements.

Let us first consider the scheme for arranging a concrete screed, as a more complex, but also more durable solution to the issue of organizing a floor for a bath on a columnar or pile foundation.

First of all, at the level of the lower plane of the wooden beams, the subfloor flooring is attached.

If you look closely at the beams, you can see that the boards are not nailed to the bottom of the joists, but are installed on a small support, fixed on the inside of the beam. This support is called the cranial bar and its location is well shown in the following diagram.

Also in this plan, you can see the sequence of placement of each of the necessary layers when constructing a concrete slab and pouring floor from a wooden board. The only thing that is not indicated here is a waterproofing flooring, which is desirable to be placed on top of a concrete screed to protect it from constant contact with water.

The following diagram describes an effective solution for arranging insulated concrete floors without expanded clay spillage. Here, both mineral wool and extruded polystyrene foam boards can act as thermal protection.

In practice, often a concrete screed is not made, but a simple pouring floor system is made that does not require grouting. The beginning of work is the same as in the previous version.

Mineral wool is laid between the lags on the rough flooring. A drain valve is installed to ensure efficient water flow.

In the direction from the walls to the hole, wooden guides are arranged in such a way as to form a general slope at one point.

On top of the guides, sheets of galvanized steel with a slight overlap on the walls are attached to the screws.

How to make floors in a bath with a slope? The sloping floor base is the ideal solution for rooms with intense water exposure. Such designs allow you to quickly evacuate the liquid from the bath and prevent damage to the flooring. However, from a technical point of view, making sloping floors is quite difficult. In the article we will consider the features of the arrangement of bases with ramps, and also pay attention to important technical nuances.

Why is slope necessary?

The inclination of the base towards the ladder allows you to quickly remove water from the washing or steam room in the bath. A rather complex design performs several tasks:

• Prevents accumulation of liquid;
• Prevents damage to floor materials;
• Provides fast drying of floors;
• Significantly reduces the chances of mold and mildew development.

The design of a draft base with a slope should be carried out taking into account many technological nuances. If the degree of inclination is too low, not all the water that accumulates on the surface will flow into the drain system. If you make the slope of the floor too large, this will affect the material component of the issue, as it will lead to unnecessary expenses.

Features of concrete floors

In the process of arranging an inclined base in a bath, in most cases, concrete is poured. This material has good frost resistance and pliability, so it is easiest to use it to fill floors with a slope. How to pour the solution correctly?

1. First, a pit and a sewer pipe are installed, with the help of which runoff water will be removed from the bath;
2. Then the concrete solution is poured in two layers, controlling the level of the horizontal screed;
3. The thickness of the bottom layer of mortar must be at least 50 mm;
4. After that, a layer of expanded clay is laid on the dried concrete floor and a second layer of mortar is poured;
5. Then a reinforcing mesh is mounted and a finishing screed is made.

As a rule, laying mortar is not the final step in the construction of sloped floors. When arranging such a coating in a sink, it is advisable to tile the base with tiles, otherwise it will very quickly become unusable due to the influence of moisture. Laying wooden floors will be no less profitable.

Leak-proof floors

Laying wooden floors with a slope is required only in case of arranging a non-leaking base. How to lay the floorboards at a certain angle to the drain?

1. The rough coating is cleaned of dirt and the drain system is mounted;
2. Then it is supposed to pour a concrete screed, which is carried out according to the technology described below;
3. After the screed has hardened, the grooved board is laid;
4. The floorboards of the finishing floor are placed at a slight angle to the drain system due to the previously formed screed slope.

Unlike pure concrete, wooden floors can be done in a sink, steam room or shower room, as they are not prone to dust formation.

Sloped floor options

Designing a base with a ramp always begins with the choice of the type of slope, which can be of two types:

1. "Envelope" - a special type of base lining, in which the drain system is located in the center of the room. For normal water flow, the base is conditionally divided into 4 parts in the form of an envelope, making a slight slope towards the ladder;
2. From two planes- a design in which the base is divided into two parts and made with a slight slope in relation to each other. At the lowest point of such a system, a ladder is installed into which liquid flows from the floor covering by gravity.

The slope of the base of the first type is currently used quite rarely, while structures with a slope from two planes are at the peak of popularity. Designing a floor of the second type is much more profitable financially. In addition, during the installation of a water drain, you can equip point drains or make a single elongated drain pit.

Features of coatings with ramps

The degree of deviation of the horizontal base is largely determined by the type of room and the concentration of water in it. The SNiP standard defines the average value of this indicator as 1 cm per meter of length. Floor design involves placing the ladder either in the center of the room or closer to the entrance to the bath.

The central drain system involves the arrangement of floors with an “envelope”. In order to carry out the work qualitatively and ensure the normal outflow of water into the sewer, the following points should be taken into account:

1. The first step is to pour the cement screed on pre-installed beacons;
2. In the process of facing the floor with a slope, it is better to use small-caliber tiles;
3. The minimum slope of the base towards the drain should be 1 cm per meter of length.

Pouring concrete floors

To make a base with a slight slope, you need to do the following work:

1. Clean the rough base from dirt and dust;
2. Make waterproofing of the base using coating or gluing materials: bituminous mastic, self-adhesive film, etc.;
3. Choose a place for organizing a drain: the distance from the walls to the drain must be chosen as a multiple of its dimensions;
4. After installing the drain, the drain hole is covered with a film to prevent cement mortar from entering the sewer;
5. After that, beacons are placed on the coating to control the slope of the screed;
6. The pouring of concrete is done so that the solution fills the entire space of the base to the upper points of the exposed beacons;
7. Using the rule, the mortar mixture is leveled, after which it is “rolled” with a roller with needles to eliminate air bubbles;
8. After the screed has hardened, the siphon glass is mounted.

tiling

Laying tiles on a concrete floor using the “envelope” technique should take into account some nuances, namely:

1. First, a decorative frieze is laid out along the perimeter of the walls;
2. Then, beacons are mounted near the ladder to control the horizontal level of the laid tiles;
3. After that, the tile is laid so that it converges in triangles to the drain hole;
4. First you need to make a row-wire, which should go from the drain to the decorative frieze;
5. Laying tiles is done in such a way that the seams are oriented parallel to the decorative frieze;
6. In the process of facing the ramp, the concrete floor will consist of tiled triangles;
7. Then the tiles are laid on the left and right sheets of the "envelope".

The described option for installing tiles in a bath is quite complicated and therefore is used infrequently. It is much easier to make floors with a drain between two inclined planes. In this case, the design is reduced to an elementary choice of the slope of the planes, which should be 1-1.5 cm per 1 m. The fracture line of the planes will lie exactly at the level of the ladder, which contributes to the effective outflow of water from the bath.

What should be taken into account?

Sloped floors in the bath allow you to quickly dry the surface of the floor materials. To properly organize the work, you need to follow these recommendations:

1. First of all, you need to calculate the height difference between the drain and the contour coverage area;
2. To ensure the correct degree of inclination of the ramp, cords are pulled from the corners of the room to the ladder;
3. The tile is laid according to the following principle: its perpendicular side must correspond to the direction given by the cord, and the horizontal one must be parallel to the ladder.

Pipeline Slope Calculation

To achieve normal water drainage from the room, it is not enough to lay the tiles at an angle to the drain hole. Designing floors with a ramp also involves calculating the optimal slope of the water supply. It depends on this parameter whether the water will go into the sewer by gravity or not.

In the process of building a bath, often the degree of inclination of the sewer pipe is determined by the values ​​\u200b\u200bthat are recommended in SNiP. However, in some cases, the standard proposed by SNiP is not suitable for arranging floors. In such situations, additional calculation and design of the pipeline slope is required.

The required parameter is determined using the following formula:

D*√L/H ≥ М, where:

• M is the slope coefficient;
• D is the speed of water movement through the pipe;
• L is the level of pipeline filling with liquid;
• H is the diameter of the sewer pipe.

The ratio of the rate of outflow of water from the pipe to the level of its fullness cannot be more than the value M. The standard for SNiP determines the minimum slope of the pipeline with a diameter of 0.5 m, which is 30 mm per 1 m of length. To make a high-quality drain, it should be noted that the outflow rate of water cannot be less than 0.7 m / s.

What affects the slope of the pipe and floor?

Designing the base with an inclination to the drain drain allows you to make a gravity sewer. To prevent the pipeline from clogging over time, you need to pay special attention to the choice of this parameter. The inclination of the sewer pipes and the floor base should not be too small or very large, as this affects the performance of the pipeline.

High-quality thermal insulation in the bath is the key to maintaining the optimal microclimate in the room. How to insulate the floor in the bath? The method of thermal insulation of the coating depends on many factors, namely: the type of foundation, the rough base and the purpose of the room (sink, shower, steam room). Next, effective methods of floor insulation using optimal materials will be considered.

What is thermal insulation for?

Do floors need to be insulated? Warming the base is an important component of the insulation work in the bath. In the future, the stability of the temperature regime in the washing room, dressing room, steam room, etc. will depend on the quality of the thermal insulation of the floor. Water has a high thermal conductivity and therefore tends to cool quickly. To prevent a sharp drop in temperature in a log or brick bath, the base is insulated with non-hygroscopic materials.

Why are timber houses insulated? Reducing heat loss in damp rooms is equally important for both wooden and brick houses. Why? The bath belongs to those types of buildings where a high temperature must be constantly maintained. Since the level of humidity in it is always quite high, upon contact with a cold floor, the water will quickly cool, which will lead to an overall decrease in the degree in the room.

The choice of heat insulators

How to insulate the floor in the bath? In the process of carrying out insulation work, special attention is paid to the choice of heaters. Since houses made of timber or brick with "damp" rooms have a specific microclimate, it is better to purchase materials with the following characteristics:

• low hygroscopicity;
• resistance to decay;
• incombustibility;
• non-toxicity;
• resistance to temperature fluctuations.

Extreme operating conditions of a frame or log bath dictate the choice of certain types of heat insulators. To make really high-quality insulation, it is better to use for insulation work:

• Expanded clay. The porous granular material has a very low thermal conductivity. It is made exclusively from natural ingredients (clay, sand), therefore, when heated, it does not emit caustic substances. As a rule, do-it-yourself warming of the base with expanded clay is carried out in the case of arranging a concrete floor with a screed in the washing room;
• Styrofoam. Non-hygroscopic synthetic material is not afraid of exposure to moisture and therefore can simultaneously play the role of both heat and waterproofing. It can be used for finishing floors in a steam room, shower room, dressing room or washroom;
• Penoplex. Lightweight and moisture-resistant insulation is made of extruded polystyrene foam. Unlike other types of insulators, it can be used without problems for thermal insulation of a house made of timber, cinder block, brick and other materials. It has high strength, low thermal conductivity, but sufficient vapor permeability.

Thermal insulation of wooden bases

How do you make thermal insulation for wood flooring with your own hands? Despite the fact that wood has a low thermal conductivity, in the process of getting wet, its heat transfer coefficient increases. That is why insulation is required for a house not only made of bricks, but even made of timber. What is required for the thermal insulation of a wooden base?

1. First, they dismantle the old coating, after which they replace the rotten timber with new logs;
2. Then, cranial bars are nailed to the bottom of the logs to further build up the subfloor;
3. Boards are placed in the sections between the lags to create a support, after which a layer of vapor and waterproofing is laid;
4. Now, with their own hands, a heater is placed in the cells of the wooden crate;
5. To insulate a frame bath, it is more expedient to use foam plastic and other polymeric insulators, and for a log bath - mineral heaters (expanded clay, ecowool, mineral wool);
6. The minimum thickness of the expanded clay insulation layer should be 10-12 cm, and for mineral wool - 5-6 cm;
7. From the scraps of boards on the logs, new floorboards are stuffed so that there is an air gap between the rough and finish coating for ventilation of the underground.

Frame bath insulation

Insulation of the frame structure allows you to keep the temperature in the steam room and washing room at 60-90 degrees for a long time. Houses of this type, as a rule, have very high heat losses. To stabilize the required temperature in the room, first of all, you need to make high-quality thermal insulation of the base in the frame bath.

How to implement insulation work with your own hands?

1. A concrete solution is poured onto well-compacted soil;
2. After drying, the screeds are waterproofed using bitumen or rolled roofing material, the joints of which are coated with special glue;
3. Then, with their own hands, a heat insulator is laid: mineral wool, expanded clay, foam boards, etc.;
4. Next, a layer of waterproofing is laid on the draft floor of the frame bath;
5. At the final stage, the base is poured with a finishing screed.

In order to increase the life of the coating, experts recommend additionally coating concrete screeds with dedusting compounds with water-repellent properties.

Foundation isolation on pile foundation

How to properly insulate the floors in a bathhouse erected on a columnar foundation? The columnar foundation, as a rule, is made on piles of metal supports or brick pillars. This type of foundation is ideal for building a sauna house from a bar. Such structures, in comparison with others, have an important advantage - reliable waterproofing, which is achieved by arranging the foundation above the ground.

In most cases, structures on a columnar foundation have a wooden base, which is formed by laying floor logs. Subsequently, wooden floors are laid on the ceiling, which need to be insulated. For high-quality thermal insulation of the base with your own hands, you need:

1. Make a wooden pipe that will connect all the support columns into a single structure;
2. Then lay the floor beams on the wooden strapping, which are fixed with metal brackets and special brackets;
3. Arrange the subfloor as described in the section "thermal insulation of wooden bases".

What materials are best for insulating floors in timber buildings?

• basalt wool;
• granulated expanded clay;
• mineral wool;
• foam.

In all of the above insulating materials, air is retained, which significantly reduces heat loss in the room. The thickness of the insulation depends on its structure and climatic conditions in the area where the bath was built. The minimum thickness of the insulator should be at least 5 cm. If necessary, heat insulators are laid in several layers, as in the case of mineral wool insulation.

Insulation work in the washroom

A special atmosphere reigns in the washroom, which is due to its functional purpose. It is in it that water procedures are performed, which affects the level of humidity and the degree of temperature changes. Since the heater in the washing room will be used in extreme conditions, the following points are taken into account in the process of choosing it:

1. Drying speed. The insulated floor must dry quickly after the procedure, otherwise pathogenic flora - mold can develop under it;
2. thermal insulation qualities. Some materials change their thermal conductivity when wet. The best option for a heat insulator for a washroom would be foam, polystyrene or foam boards;
3. The degree of thermal expansion. Significant temperature fluctuations lead to thermal expansion of many materials. The most resistant to high temperatures will be mineral and synthetic heaters.

In order for the underground in the washing room to be well ventilated, a vapor-permeable film is placed on the base during the insulation work. It prevents the accumulation of condensate under the floor and wetting of the insulators.

Insulation work in the steam room

Unlike the washing room, in the steam room the degree of humidity is tolerable, therefore, almost any type of heat insulator can be used to insulate the base. But in this case, the temperature regime deserves special attention. Due to exposure to high temperatures, some synthetic materials may release formaldehyde, which is unacceptable.

What is the best way to insulate the floors in the steam room? Thermal insulation of the base in such rooms should be done with foam plastic or expanded clay, as shown in the photo. In this case, the thickness of the insulating layer should be at least 10 or even 15 cm, as is the case with expanded clay.

Expanded clay insulation

Warming a house from a bar with a concrete base is more expedient to do with expanded clay. Why? This material, unlike many types of heat insulators, consists exclusively of environmentally friendly components. Also, its advantages include:

• low thermal conductivity;
• good sound insulation;
• low cost;
• resistance to decay;
• incombustibility;
• security.

When insulating the base with expanded clay, it is necessary to take into account the fraction of granules: the larger it is, the higher the thermal conductivity of the material. To significantly reduce heat loss in the room, it is necessary to use finely granulated expanded clay. In the process of carrying out insulation work, a heat insulator is placed between two layers of screed. In this case, the thickness of the insulating layer cannot be less than 10 cm.

Foam insulation

Is it possible to insulate the floors in a log bath with foam plastic? Polyfoam belongs to the category of universal insulators, since it has the following qualities.

The device of the floor in the bath in the washing room is carried out with sufficient attention, since it is constantly exposed to moisture, therefore, when arranging it, some technological features are taken into account that will contribute to unhindered water drainage, quick drying and resistance to temperature changes.

Failure to comply with the stipulated norms and rules will lead to deformation of the floor and its failure.

Wooden floor installation

A leaky floor has the simplest design feature. From the outside, it is a wooden flooring with gaps of a certain size between the boards.

Replacement of such flooring is possible at any time. Floors are removed to dry. The main disadvantage is that such floors are not insulated and are designed for use only in the warm season.

A pillow of sand and gravel mixture is used as a sexual base. Water spills directly onto the ground under the pouring floor. In this case, the surface is covered with a waterproofing material. Wash water is drained into a sewer pit.

The arrangement of a non-leaking floor is of great difficulty, since by its design it does not have removable structures. The floor surface itself consists of a multilayer monolithic wooden structure.

A draft floor is installed between the lags, which should be protected from moisture with a waterproofing film or roofing felt. Between the lags, a heater made of mineral wool, polystyrene or polystyrene is installed and covered with another layer of waterproofing.

The finish is a grooved board. As a disadvantage, it can be noted: if you need to replace the floor, you will have to disassemble the entire wooden structure.

The choice of design features of the wooden floor for the washing room of the bath depends on the characteristics of the foundation and walls of the building.

Concrete floor installation

When arranging concrete floors, be sure to lay a layer of waterproofing

In the washing department of the bath, concrete floors are often used, as the most reliable, durable and moisture resistant. Depending on the design of the bath building, they can be equipped in three ways:

• over a wooden floor;
• concreting the surface of the earthen floor;
• over the concrete floor.

To install a concrete floor on a wooden floor, it is covered with polyethylene with an overlap on the walls. In this case, it is desirable to use a solid waterproofing sheet. If several canvases are used, then adjacent pieces should overlap with each other, and the seams should be glued.

To prevent the film from breaking through, it is covered with a thin layer of fine sand, on top of which a reinforced mesh is placed on stands. When pouring a cement screed, its horizontalness can be checked by a long rule.

The easiest way and much more correct to eliminate the unevenness of the screed is with a self-leveling liquid, which will serve as an additional waterproofing layer.

Before concreting the earth base, it is necessary to compact the soil and level it by adding a layer of sand 50 mm thick. It is imperative to lay the waterproofing film in order.

For it, you can use a dense black polyethylene film or bitumen-based material. If the washing room of the bath is small, it is better to use a special reinforcing fiber for reinforcement, over which a concrete screed is poured.

Provided that the screed will be made on the prepared concrete floor, it is desirable to lay expanded clay concrete on the waterproofing layer, which has not only sufficient strength, but also good thermal insulation properties.

The table shows the calculation of proportions for small volumes of concrete mix:

When performing concrete work, the pouring of the solution begins from the far corner of the washing compartment. The concrete surface of the floor is laid out with ceramic tiles. When choosing it, preference should be given to anti-slip tiles.

Choice of floor tiles

Use anti-slip tiles

The floor in the bath, finished with ceramic tiles, is considered the second most popular after the wooden floor. The main advantage of the tile is its resistance to water and steam.

However, not every type of it can be used in a washroom. Since the bath can be used both permanently and with some temporary interruptions, the tiles must be durable, frost-resistant, moisture-proof and anti-slip.

Porcelain stoneware has such characteristics. Its advantages in use in such a room are undeniable, since in addition to the characteristics that were indicated earlier, it differs in imitation of marble coating and other natural finishing materials that are not available to everyone at a price category.

For clarity, the table shows data on the technical properties of the tile:

The choice of tiles for finishing the floor in the washing department depends on the desires and capabilities of the owner of the bath.

Heated floor in washroom

On top of the water circuit it will be possible to lay tiles on the screed

For significant savings on heating the bath, it is recommended to install a floor heating system. For the washing compartment, you can use any of the known types of such heating: electric or water.

Any of these types is installed under the floor tiles. However, water heating will be the most effective, the water in the pipes of which will be heated due to the operation of the heating bath stove. At the same time, water will be heated both for heating and for washing needs.

As floor heating pipes, you can use both a metal-plastic pipe for hot water supply and polypropylene pipes with a diameter of 16-20 mm. According to their characteristics, the pipes must withstand a water pressure of 10 bar, as well as a carrier temperature of 95 degrees. One pipe circuit must not exceed 60 m in length, the water to which must be supplied from the boiler through a distribution manifold installed between the washing room and the rest room. How to equip a warm floor in the bath, see this video: