How to plaster gas blocks outside the house. Plastering walls of aerated concrete indoors. Video: the work of an aerated concrete wall plastering master

Gas silicate blocks - excellent construction material. Their designs are warm and reliable. But after construction, the question arises: how is the plastering of building gas silicate blocks done from the inside? There is special technology performance of work, which we will consider. This will help to quickly and efficiently prepare the walls of gas silicate blocks for interior decoration.

Requirements for plaster

The range of products for work is quite large, but not all of them are suitable for gas silicate plastering. The surface of the material is porous, which causes difficulties. Consider the requirements for the plaster mix:

• vapor permeability, due to which the wall of gas silicate blocks will breathe;
• if the work is carried out outside, then the plaster is selected to be moisture-resistant and frost-resistant in order to withstand atmospheric influences;
• high quality of adhesion (adhesion to the surface);
• good strength;
• elasticity, so that it can be easily applied, and during operation the plaster does not crack;
• resistance to high temperature, to comply with fire safety.

All this is important to consider before plastering. gas silicate blocks. Most of the modern mixtures are suitable for almost all criteria. If we talk about finishing gas silicate blocks from the inside, then it is much easier, since such an aggressive effect is not exerted on the composition.

What mixture to choose

The question arises, how to plaster gas silicate blocks inside? Some prefer to use cement-sand mixtures for plaster. But this is wrong. There are two good reasons for this:

1. The quality of adhesion to the wall is low. Aerated concrete, due to its porous structure, will quickly absorb all the water from the mixture. As a result, when the plaster dries, it will become covered with cracks. Even a primer does not always help get rid of this phenomenon.
2. This plaster will significantly reduce the vapor permeability of a wall of aerated concrete blocks. The microclimate will be disturbed, and condensation will form on the walls. For walls made of brick or foam, this is not so important. A house made of gas silicate must breathe.

Instead of a cement-sand mixture, a specially designed plaster for gas silicate blocks is recommended. It has all the necessary properties that are needed for work. For specifics, we will provide a list of popular compositions: Ceresit ST 24, Atlas Silikat, Glims TS40 Velur, Mask + MSH, Sibit. The average plaster consumption is up to 9 kg/m2.

Note! It is better to do the plastering yourself, as the price of professional work can bite. Plastering 1 m2 of a wall will cost 300 rubles, priming and puttying - another 300 rubles / m2, reinforcing the wall with a mesh - 100 rubles / m2, finishing painting - from 120 rubles / m2.

The nuances of working with gas silicate blocks

You can not compare ordinary brick or concrete with gas silicate. The material has special properties. Plastering walls from gas silicate blocks has its own difficulties:

Given all this, you can begin the process of plastering the walls. But first, let's take care of necessary tools and materials.

Arsenal for plaster

Let's begin with that plastering work will be carried out by beacons. This will allow you to make the surface perfectly flat and simplify the task for beginners. Below is a list of the tools you will need for the job:

1. Rule for stretching and leveling plaster between beacons.
2. The lighthouses themselves are made of wood or metal. These are rails or profiles that serve as a guide.
3. Roulette, plumb line, marker, level, dowels and screws.
4. The primer for gas silicate blocks for plastering is carried out using a roller and a paint brush.
5. Plastering is done with a ladle or trowel.
6. To prepare the mixture, a bucket is used and construction mixer.
7. Grater and poluter.

As for materials, everything is simple here: primer, selected plaster, fiberglass mesh, top coat.

Preparatory stage

Everything starts with preparation. It is very important, because the final result directly depends on it. The instruction is:

1. To begin with, the surface is cleaned of everything superfluous: dust, dirt, stains, old coating.
2. Then the primer is applied. It's easier to do it with a roller, and hard-to-reach places handle with a brush.
3. Alternatively, notches can be made on the wall instead of a primer. They are made by the Bulgarian.
4. At the end, it remains to install the beacons. This is one of the difficult steps, without which gas silicate plastering will be problematic.

The installation of beacons begins with markings on the wall. To begin with, you need to retreat 30 cm from the corner of the wall, 15 cm from the floor and ceiling and draw a straight line. Do the same on the other side. At the points where the lines end, drill a hole, drive in the dowels and tighten the screws. Level the resulting fasteners so that they have the same depth. Mark the rest of the wall too, maintaining an indent from the lines of 130-150 cm.

Note! The distance from the beacons should not exceed the length of the working rule.

Then they are connected in a horizontal position with a thread, forming a rectangle on the wall. Markers mark the places where the thread intersects with the line drawn inside. A hole is drilled there, a dowel is inserted and a self-tapping screw is twisted. It remains to pull the diagonal threads to check the evenness. All elements must be in the same plane.

It remains only to install the beacons along the drawn lines. Installation is carried out on a solution or on fasteners. If the walls are relatively even, fixing on the mortar can be dispensed with, which is applied in small portions along the line with an interval of up to 20 cm. The profile is sunk into the mortar and aligned with the screwed screws. Now you can apply plaster.

Wall plastering

Work begins with the preparation of the solution. Usually the instruction is indicated on the packaging of the product. You will need a construction mixer and a mixing container. The consistency of the plaster should resemble a paste. If there is no primer layer, then the wall is slightly moistened. Step by step instructions plastering gas silicate blocks:

1. Using a trowel or ladle, the composition is applied to the wall in a thick layer. Work is done from below, moving up. You should not fill the entire wall, but only one section of two lighthouses.
2. Further, using the rule, the gas silicate plaster is stretched and the surface is leveled. In this case, the movements should be zigzag, starting from the bottom, moving up.
3. Excess composition is thrown up. The work is carried out until the entire section is filled and perfectly aligned. Advice! The thickness of the layer depends on the location of the beacons. If the thickness exceeds 3 mm, then a reinforcing mesh is needed. She sinks into the solution. The surface must be even and without wrinkles.
4. According to this principle, the entire surface of the wall of gas silicate blocks is processed. Special attention should be given to the corners. They should be even and well fortified.
5. When the wall is processed and dried a little, the lighthouses can be removed from their walls. After them, strobes will remain without a solution. They are also filled with a mixture and leveled.
6. The evenness of the resulting wall is checked using a level.
7. When the surface is dry, you can start sanding the walls. It is done with a grater and a grater.

At this stage, the plastering of the wall is completed. Further manipulations depend on the finishing decorative layer. If you plan to finish with wallpaper, painting or decorative plaster, then the surface is processed by the starting and finishing putty. After that, it can be painted or wallpapered. That's all, the work on plastering gas silicate blocks has been completed.

Summing up

By doing all the work with your own hands, you can save tens of thousands of rubles. The money saved can be spent on furniture, high-quality finishing materials or something else. If this is your first time doing this work, it is better to study the whole process in detail and only then deal with the plastering of gas silicate blocks. Doing everything with your own hands is quite realistic. It remains to put it all into practice.

Aerated concrete has long been loved by private developers for its excellent operational characteristics and very attractive price. However, before starting construction from it, you need to study all the "pitfalls" in this matter in order to build a high-quality and durable structure. So, when planning the finishing, it is important to know how to plaster aerated concrete inside the house, and what materials are prohibited. What are the reasons for such restrictions and what kind of finish is ideal for gas silicate blocks, we will consider below.

Features of finishing aerated concrete walls

Before diving into the question fine finish walls, you must first understand the structure of gas blocks, from which the quality of the future home will completely depend.

The main way to obtain this cellular material is the introduction into the composition concrete mortar special additives that, when reacting, form air bubbles that tend to break out. They simply streak the aerated concrete body not only with voids, but also with thin channels, forming a surface that resembles natural pumice in its texture. This structure has excellent positive properties with proper final block processing:

• high sound absorption coefficient;
• good level of thermal insulation;
• "breathing" walls create a unique microclimate in the room, retaining warmth in winter period years and coolness even in the most intense heat;
• the porous structure of aerated concrete is not subject to the emergence and maintenance of colonies of fungal and other microorganisms, which, as a result of their vital activity, destroy walls.

But despite these wonderful performance characteristics, aerated concrete also has disadvantages due to its structure:

• the porous structure is subject to increased water absorption, which is fraught with the rapid destruction of blocks;
• products with the highest density index, and, accordingly, strength, do not differ in resistance to mechanical influences leading to spalls and cracks;
• the heterogeneous structure, which retains heat so well, is very sensitive to wind. Unprotected bare aerated concrete walls are strongly blown, and it is cold inside, even despite competently organized system heating.

Taking into account all these negative circumstances, we can conclude that aerated concrete walls need to be finished. But it must be done as competently as possible so as not to disturb the microcirculation inside the walls, which can lead to destructive processes.

Vapor permeability

The porous structure, about which so much has been said, has one more property - good vapor permeability, which is the key to the durability of any structure made of cellular concrete.

In the process of life, people release into the atmosphere a large number of all kinds of moisture. Just imagine how the air is saturated with it when ironing, washing, drying clothes, cooking or taking a bath. Of course, part of the formed vapors is removed with the help of artificial and natural ventilation, but the main volume falls on the walls. In its pure form without finishing, aerated concrete perfectly passes moisture without retaining it inside its body.

Another thing is if there is a facade and interior cladding, and it is mandatory for such wall material. Therefore, both finishes should complement each other, organizing the maximum natural removal of moisture.

For example, a ventilated facade system was chosen as an external finish. In this case, the provided ventilation gap does not disturb the natural balance of moisture in the aerated concrete wall, leaving complete freedom for the vapors to escape. Under such circumstances, any plaster for aerated concrete can be used.

In the case of a wall insulation device, you need to pay attention to the characteristics of the base material. For example, mineral wool fully complies with the requirements - high-quality thermal insulation and does not prevent the removal of moisture. As in the previous example, the circulation of steam is not disturbed and the wall remains dry, so any plaster mixture can be chosen.

How to maintain natural moisture balance

But often for one reason or another facade finishing arranged bypassing the basic rules, or, even worse, the insulation was made with foam sheets (its vapor transmission capacity is almost zero) without a device ventilation gap. This leads to the accumulation of moisture in the thickness of the wall, which eventually manifests itself in damp corners, the collection of condensate in the room - and these are the first harbingers of the appearance of fungal mold.

Such a serious defect can be corrected only by using interior decoration materials whose vapor permeability is much lower than that of aerated concrete. This shielding method will prevent the accumulation of moisture inside the walls. Best to use:

• paints with a special composition;
• waterproof wallpaper;
• cement-sand plaster mortars of dense consistency.

But in this case, the importance of the device increases significantly. good ventilation so that the accumulated moisture does not settle on the walls and inside the room, forming a greenhouse effect.

In order not to complicate the construction process, it would be most correct to initially produce interior decoration. After all, the repair involves a large amount of evaporated moisture, which simply needs to go outside, and it is best if it does this through the “bare” gas silicate walls.

And one more small nuance regarding the timing of the processing of walls made of aerated concrete blocks. Any cellular materials shrink well, which, in turn, negatively affects any fine cladding - this usually manifests itself in cracking and peeling of the decorative layer.

Therefore, it is recommended to carry out both internal and facade finishing processes at least six months after the complete erection of the building box and the roof device. It is best to plan this stage of construction in the spring - summer period. As mentioned above, the interior decoration is carried out first, after the end of all processes, in a month you can start processing the facade.

What plaster to prefer for interior decoration

As noted above, aerated concrete blocks are characterized by a high degree of water absorption, which can lead to excessive drying of the applied layer of plaster. This is especially evident in gypsum compositions and mortars based on cement - fast drying, cracking and shedding. If, on the other hand, we go from the opposite, and unnecessarily saturate the wall with water, then it will simply be impossible to plaster it, since the applied layer will not be held on the aerated concrete base.

Choosing the right materials will help solve this problem:

• primers of deep penetration with a special composition. When applying them, the main thing is not to overdo it and not oversaturate the surface of the wall with moisture. Therefore, before use, read the instructions and follow them strictly;
• special mixtures intended for plastering exactly gas silicate blocks. Their composition perfectly protects such “capricious” porous surfaces. But this is subject to the dilution of the plaster in the correct proportions with water. Only following the instructions for use from the manufacturer will help not to make a mistake in this matter.

But that's not all. The cellular surface does not have good adhesive qualities. For this reason, it is initially necessary to apply a rough layer of plaster with a thickness of at least 5 mm. But even this finish is prone to cracking and flaking. To prevent this, a plaster mesh is used. Fiberglass or polyurethane sheets are best preferred due to their excellent alkali resistance and long service life. Only after applying such a reinforced plaster layer and its complete drying, you can safely proceed to the fine finish.

The best plaster mixes

Having figured out a little about what parameters the finishing mixture should meet, let's look at its most popular and effective types:

• plaster compositions based on silicates, namely "liquid glass". They are perfectly combined with aerated concrete surfaces, especially in terms of vapor permeability. But there is a small "but". Such plaster mixes incompatible with many types of fine finishes, for example, based on acrylic, latex, silicone;
• gypsum plasters with perlite sand. They are ideal for aerated concrete wall surfaces, as indicated on the packaging. Suitable for any material finishing;
• plaster mixtures on a cement-lime basis with the addition of optimizing additives. Such compositions were invented specifically for finishing cellular material, even without preliminary primer. The internal plaster of walls made of aerated concrete of a similar plan has not only excellent adhesive properties, but is also applicable for both rough and finish finishes.

The use of such plaster compositions is ideal for gas silicate walls and if desired, with their help, you can apply a leveling layer yourself. Like all specialty materials improved for one application, these mixtures come at a very high cost, which in the end adds up to a decent amount.

But there is an alternative that will economically resolve the issue of internal plastering - the use of a conventional cement-sand mortar in a ratio of 1:5. But it must be used with extreme caution in relation to aerated concrete surfaces and not overdo it with the addition of water to the working mixture.

The process of self-interior plastering

Even if you decide that indoor plastering of aerated concrete walls will be done by craftsmen, it will not hurt to know the process of its implementation. After all, even professionals can sometimes make mistakes, and control from the outside will help to avoid annoying shortcomings.

Preparing for plastering

The algorithm of the process for preparing walls for plastering is quite simple in execution, in which it is impossible to make a mistake. Therefore, you can do it yourself. This will require:

• or plastic 100-120 cm wide;
• adhesive for ceramic tiles;
• deep penetration soil;
• notched trowel with 5-6 mm teeth.

Stage 1. Carefully inspect the walls for construction "jambs". For example, cracks and chips are subject to putty with alignment under general level walls. For these purposes, a regular repair mortar is suitable, however, if it is not needed so much, then it is best to use an adhesive specifically designed for aerated concrete.

Stage 2. After drying the restored parts, go over all the walls with a stiff brush to remove dirt and dust.

Step 3. Apply primer in one coat. You can do this in a way convenient for you, for example, using a roller or brush. To reduce the consumption of primer solution experienced builders use conventional sprayers. If there are none at hand, then you can just as well use an old model of a vacuum cleaner, the principle of which is to blow air. Only after quality drying the first layer, you can start applying the second.

Stage 4. When the primer is completely dry, you can safely dilute the glue according to the instructions and cut plaster mesh into strips, the length of which should be equal to the height of the walls.

Stage 5. Starting from the bottom, pour the prepared glue onto the wall, gradually moving up. The thickness should be approximately equal to a layer of 5 mm, and the width should be slightly larger than the width of the mesh.

Step 6 Apply a strip of stucco and press it firmly into place on the wall. Now you can level with a notched trowel adhesive layer so that the direction of the grooves runs horizontally. This improves adhesion to both the wall and future plaster.

Applying plaster

After reinforced layer completely dry, you can safely proceed to the main plastering process.

Stage 1. Wielding building level, profiles are exposed - beacons.

Stage 2. The working solution is mixed according to the instructions. If the choice fell on the traditional cement-sand composition, then it is taken in a ratio of 1: 5, a plasticizer is added and kneaded to a thick consistency.

Stage 3. A solution is thrown between the two beacons along the entire height of the wall. Using the rule, the resulting layer is leveled to the required level of smoothness. Once again, attach the rule to the wall and check if there are gaps between them. If there is, add a mortar and level it, no - fine, plaster all the walls in a similar way.

The described plastering technology is quite simple and even an inexperienced master can successfully use it. The main thing is that it is correctly chosen how to plaster the walls of aerated concrete inside the house.

Often, developers have a question about how to plaster aerated concrete outside. Before starting work, it is recommended to decide on important characteristics and, based on this, choose best option finishes.

Aerated concrete plaster must meet the basic requirements - the mixture adheres tightly to the surface and has good adhesion. The finishing layer is durable, frost-resistant, while it has the desired level of vapor permeability and water repellency.

When to do plaster work

External plastering is recommended after completion finishing works in a buiding. It is generally accepted that if you do not protect the surface of gas blocks from the street, it will absorb moisture. This is not so, primed walls can stand without a protective layer for the whole winter, when the climate changes in spring, moisture from the surface will evaporate. Otherwise, when the house is processed from the facade, the evaporation vapor will be directed inside the room, which will lead to dampness.

Note! An exception is the option of building a house on the coast of the sea or a reservoir. When it is required to protect the outer walls from the influence of a humid climate and winds.

Before plastering, the walls of the gas blocks should dry well. If during the construction process a cement mortar was used, which has the ability to absorb moisture. For this reason exterior finish during the rainy season will not be effective. But especially dangerous for walls is cold water which then turns into ice. In the process of melting, the structure of aerated concrete begins to collapse.

Facade insulation

If the building is properly insulated, then you can heat the room faster and save money on paying for heating. Insulation from the outside is recommended to be done with mineral wool, polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam or other options. For example, the insulation and plastering of the facade of a house can be replaced by building an additional brick wall or treated with liquid polyurethane foam.

Types of plasters

There are several types of plaster that are suitable for processing aerated concrete walls. There are certain requirements for the composition of the mixture for outdoor work.

1. The material must be permeable and at the same time its coefficient must be higher than that of the treated surface - aerated concrete or sealant.
2. The plaster must be resistant to frost and temperature changes.
3. To prevent cracking, the applied layer must be elastic.
4. The plaster must have strong adhesive properties with aerated concrete.

Mineral

How to plaster aerated concrete walls? Professionals and private builders recommend the use of mineral-based plaster compositions. They are among the thin-layer compositions specially designed for finishing aerated concrete. Such solutions are made by hand, they have an affordable cost, good vapor permeability and low weight.

The finished compositions include the following components:

• lime;
• white cement;
• marble chips and other fillers.

The color palette of such plaster mixtures is limited. They can be easily painted, the only caveat is the use of vapor-permeable coloring compositions. Painting is able to protect the coating from moisture, because a humid environment can destroy mineral plasters.

silicate

The basis of this type building plaster includes potassium liquid glass, which is a binding component.

Advantages of the silicate mixture:

1. Ease of application;
2. Resistance to moisture influences;
3. Vapor permeability;
4. If necessary, painted in any color;
5. Acceptable price;
6. Long service life (up to 25 years);
7. decorative qualities.

Silicone

It is better to plaster aerated concrete blocks with facade silicone plaster. It has high technical and operational characteristics, surpasses other plaster mixes.

The advantages of silicone plasters include:

• properties to repel water;
• building material is easy to apply with your own hands, without the involvement of specialists;
• plaster has a high degree of resistance atmospheric phenomena and vapor permeability;
• Long service life;
• Fillers have a different texture;
• The material is elastic.

Acrylic

The material has high decorative qualities and strength. A big disadvantage of acrylic plaster for processing aerated concrete and other cellular textures is the low level of vapor permeability. For this reason, condensation forms in the inner layer of the plastered surface. As a result, with such an impact, deformation of the surface occurs - peeling and cracking.

Cement-sand

Cement plaster is not suitable for the treatment of external aerated concrete surfaces. For what reasons this popular building material is not suitable:

1. The solution is not fixed on the smooth surface of aerated concrete due to insufficient adhesion properties. The mixture has a high density and high weight;
2. When applied cement mortar on the surface, aerated concrete absorbs moisture, there is a weakening of the adhesion of materials. As a result of such rapid drying, the integrity of the layer is destroyed;
3. Low vapor permeability cement mixtures- inconsistency building codes, and violation of optimal microclimatic indicators in residential premises.

If a cement plaster use for interior work, it will protect aerated concrete walls from steam penetration into them.

Important! Expanded polystyrene and polystyrene are not recommended for use on aerated concrete surfaces.

Gypsum

The plaster in the base, which includes gypsum, has the following positive qualities:

• dries quickly;
• the solution does not shrink;
• the mixture lays down smoothly;
• no top coat required.

Cons of plastering walls with gypsum:

• average level of vapor permeability;
• required large quantity water compared to special mixtures, approximately 10-15 liters per 1 bag of 25 kg;
• the surface will quickly get wet after rain and snow;
• spots appear on the surface that need to be painted over.

facade

The mixture is most effectively suitable for processing both exterior walls and indoors, the material is easy to apply with your own hands. Plaster has a number of positive qualities– good adhesion to the base, attractive appearance. Including the material has vapor permeability indicators identical to those of gas blocks. When choosing plaster for the construction of aerated concrete, it is better to choose a high-quality special mixture, this will simplify the process of finishing the house.

If there is a choice of plaster or drywall, which is better for aerated concrete inside the house. The following facts should be taken into account: the walls made of gas blocks are even, and they do not require alignment. Accordingly, the plaster will cost less, the solution will lie in an even and beautiful layer.

Self-finishing

We plaster aerated concrete from the outside with plaster intended for outdoor use. There are two options for applying the mixture - a thick layer or several thin layers, which are applied no more than 3 layers and no more than 1 cm each.

Work order:

• the surface is prepared for plastering - pollution is removed;
• then you should do the hanging of the surface with your own hands along the beacons;
• spray is applied - the first layer of plastering;
• primer is applied and leveled;
• cutting corners;
• slope finishing;
• a covering layer is applied;
• the surface is rubbed off.

Technology of work outside

1. If necessary, a heater for blocks under plaster is mounted.
2. Wall preparation - leveling the surface to reduce the consumption of materials and the thickness of the application.
3. Before proceeding with the plastering of the walls, aerated concrete must be treated with a primer. For this, compositions designed for the fine-mesh structure of materials are used.
4. Application of a thin layer of plaster mixture for aerated concrete surfaces - up to 5 mm. This base will serve to attach the mesh.

It should be noted right away that plastering aerated concrete blocks from the outside with adhesive solutions is unacceptable. Because glue won't do the job. In order to protect and level surfaces, it is recommended to use specially designed mixtures that meet all operational requirements.

When plastering aerated concrete facade, it is recommended to follow some rules, which are described below.

• after the building is erected, it is necessary to withstand a certain period of time so that the internal moisture evaporates naturally;
• the brand of plaster must be suitable for outdoor work;
• subsequence repair work- first inside the house, then outside;
• the temperature regime must correspond to +8 to +30 C0 - for carrying out exterior finish;
• Construction rules to be observed in relation to the increase in thermal conductivity coefficients. Each mounted or applied material on the gas block should be taken into account.

Reinforcement

When asked whether it is necessary to reinforce the plaster, and whether a mesh is needed. The answer is simple, since the plaster layer of the aerated concrete coating can vary from 5 to 15 mm. If the layer exceeds 10 mm, use as a reinforcing layer metal mesh with fine texture of cells. For example, a mesh with a wire diameter of 0.1 mm and a mesh size of 0.16 x 0.16 mm, or fiberglass meshes with cells of 5x5 cm, is suitable.

You need to mount the grid with an overlap of 5 cm, for the corners of the house they use perforated corners with mesh. This method will help prevent the formation of cracks in the plaster after shrinkage of the building. It is better to install the grid in the applied solution with a spatula. Especially important point is the installation of the grid in place with increased level voltage - the zone of windows and doors.

Advice! If you attach the mesh to a dry surface, the result will be zero. Because the grid needs to be fixed to the wall with self-tapping screws, and then apply a layer of mortar. Otherwise, an unfixed mesh will move along with the putty.

Work order:

1. Align the plaster layer on the grid with a vapor-permeable plaster.
2. It is necessary to wait until the first layer is completely dry. Otherwise, it will fall off under the weight of the next layer. This technique provides for thin-layer application of the mixture. Wait for complete drying will have from three to four days. Accordingly, the thicker the layer, the longer it takes to dry. Checking whether the surface is dry is carried out with water. Having splashed liquid on the surface, it was quickly absorbed - this means that it is time to proceed to further work.
3. A second layer of plaster is applied, which is considered leveling. Therefore, the layer must be even and smooth;
4. The third is applied finishing layer plaster, and if necessary, it will require subsequent grouting.
5. Painting the surface, materials for outdoor use or applying putty.
6. Hydrophobic treatment. Experts recommend applying this solution 12 months after painting and completing all facade cladding work. The water repellent gives any coating additional water-repellent properties.

Note! When the plaster layer dries, it must be protected from the influence of such undesirable factors. environment like moisture, snow, rain.

putty

When deciding whether to putty aerated concrete, it is recommended to learn about the types building mixtures. There are 3 types of product varieties on the market that are designed for finishing. By and large, this is a facade plaster intended for thin-layer finishing of an already plastered surface, differing only in composition. Ready mixes are sold in buckets and come in silicate, silicone and acrylic.

Important! When performing work on plastering a house outside, it is recommended to use only steam-permeable building materials. This will provide not only a reliable finish, but will serve as a decoration for the building.

Aerated concrete is a modern building material that resembles foam concrete in structure, but differs in air bubbles located inside. The hollow structure of aerated concrete absorbs moisture well, which requires external finishing of the material. The better to plaster aerated concrete walls is discussed in the proposed article.

For the manufacture of material are used:

• quartz sand - the basis of the mixture;
• lime;
• cement;
• water;
• aluminum powder is added during the manufacturing process of the material. Acts as the main blowing agent and gives the material a specific structure.

Tip: When purchasing aerated concrete, it must be borne in mind that the pores of the blocks, unlike foam concrete, are open. This determines the features of its application and finish.

Comparative characteristics of foam concrete and aerated concrete are presented in the table:

When plastering external surfaces of aerated concrete, its high hygroscopicity must be taken into account.

This requires the use of non-standard plasters, which over time will not lead to:

• Cracking of the internal and external surfaces of the building, as in the photo.

• The appearance of traces of masonry after fog or rain, which worsens the visual parameters of the walls.
• Change of technical characteristics.

• An increase in indoor humidity.
• The appearance of mold in the corners of the rooms.

To finish the exterior surfaces, special facade plasters are used. A particular danger for aerated concrete slabs is temperature extremes and severe frosts.

During operation, a certain amount of liquid begins to accumulate inside the structures, which will expand when it freezes and can greatly damage the structures of the structure. It is possible to plaster aerated concrete bases only with mixtures that have good water-repellent properties that do not prevent moisture from evaporating from the walls.

For exterior finishing of aerated concrete, the plaster must have:

• Good adhesion parameters.
• High compressive strength.
• Frost resistance.

Tip: Owners of buildings made of aerated concrete blocks should take into account that the exterior wall decoration is carried out only after all internal facing works. Otherwise, when carrying out “wet” interior finishing work, the walls will absorb a significant amount of moisture, which will subsequently begin to evaporate.

If a exterior facade will be finished before applying the internal plaster, with its intensive evaporation, the external plaster layer will peel off from the surface of the aerated concrete. After the interior decoration of the room, it is possible to clad the walls of the house from the outside with special compositions with the highest vapor permeability.

Advice: It is impossible to plaster facades using standard cement-sand mixtures due to their insufficient high properties vapor permeability.

Plaster for gas concrete

For wall finishing, a vapor-permeable plaster for aerated concrete is used, which passes water vapor well, does not get wet, with good adhesion to the surface of the blocks and high frost resistance.

Lime-cement plaster

All the necessary properties are inherent in light thin-layer plasters, specially created for finishing surfaces made of aerated concrete. An example of such plaster can be - Baumit HandPutz for do-it-yourself wall decoration, produced in bags weighing 25 kilograms.

Its main physical properties are shown in the table:

Tip: Before plastering aerated concrete with this plaster, it is necessary to spray the previously cleaned wall surface with Baumit Vorspritze mortar.

Material selection

To choose which plaster is better to plaster aerated concrete walls, you need to purchase a plaster composition that meets the characteristics:

• good vapor permeability;
• the optimal volume of liquid for mixing the mixture: for one kilogram of the mixture - no more than 0.2 liters of water;
• certain values ​​of the minimum and maximum thickness applying plaster;
• good adhesion with a base of at least 0.5 MPa;
• resistance to negative temperatures;
• high resistance to cracking;
• long pot life of the mixture, the larger it is, the easier it is to work with the solution, especially for beginners.

The procedure for plastering walls made of aerated concrete

Before starting work, it is better to get acquainted with the video in this article.

Advice: Building blocks from cellular concrete are quite even with almost imperceptible seams. Use for leveling surfaces plaster solutions no need. It is enough to apply only a thin layer of the mixture.

The wall plastering instruction suggests the following work procedure:

• Surface primer. A composition specially designed for aerated concrete, the surface of which actively absorbs moisture, is applied with a brush or roller.

• A reinforcing mesh is mounted, which is attached to the surface with self-tapping screws (see How to fix a plaster mesh to a wall).

• The walls are finished with a thin layer of plaster.

Properly selected plaster mixes for aerated concrete blocks allow you to make your home not only beautiful, but also warm, preserving all its positive characteristics for a long time.

But it differs from them in the composition of air bubbles inside.

Aerated concrete blocks are made of cement with a mass fraction of at least 50%.

Aerated concrete walls need external and internal finishing due to porosity and high level moisture absorption.

Features of aerated concrete

This building material has a cellular structure, which gives it special properties:

• good thermal insulation - in terms of characteristics, aerated concrete is comparable to wood;
• low mechanical stability, which leads to the appearance of cracks and chips over time;
• porous material is blown by air currents, which is why houses made of it without finishing are considered rather cold;
• unaesthetic appearance;
• high absorbency leads to corrosion of the material in winter, during frosts.

The special structure of aerated concrete blocks requires careful processing finishing materials to improve it quality characteristics. External plastering is carried out using special solutions, which are selected under certain environmental conditions. Proper plaster aerated concrete walls provides reliable protection base and its durability, and also allows you to give a more aesthetic appearance to the room.

How and with what to plaster aerated concrete indoors?

Regardless of the choice of type of plaster, finishing work must begin indoors. Changing the order and plastering the facade of the building will lead to excess moisture in room. The fact is that when steam leaves the room, especially in winter, condensate accumulates between the blocks and the finish, creating places with excess moisture. This is the main cause of cracks on the surface and shedding of the plaster. To avoid such troubles, you should first deal with the plastering of walls from gas blocks indoors. Experienced craftsmen There are two types of technology for plastering aerated concrete walls in a house:

• with full vapor barrier;
• maintaining and increasing the vapor permeability of the material.

The main element of plastering aerated concrete using the first technology is polyethylene film. It is fixed between the layers of the solution, and the vapor permeability of the walls is reduced several times. Also used for vapor barrier oil paints, which are applied as a finish, and priming the base with special compounds.

The dependence of plastering technology from the inside on the outside

For exact definition approach to internal work you need to decide on the external plastering. The plastering of aerated concrete walls outside the room affects the method and sequence of actions for finishing the room:

1. When outer wall already has some kind of coating or is insulated with dense and vapor-tight materials, then moisture will accumulate in the walls. In this situation, interior decoration is carried out using materials with low vapor permeability. You also need to take care of reliable system ventilation, so that moisture does not accumulate in the corners of the room and on the windows.
2. When the aerated concrete facade is not covered with anything, or treated with porous heaters, such as mineral wool, then its vapor permeability is not impaired. In this case, it is necessary to first carry out work on the interior decoration of the room, and then move on to the outside.

Foundation preparation

The technology of plastering walls made of aerated concrete is practically no different from working with any other surface. First of all, you need to make sure that the walls are even, and if this is not the case, grind them with a planer or grater for aerated concrete. Many craftsmen skip this stage, but as a result, the cost of plaster increases, which is also used to level defects. Before applying the primer, aerated concrete walls are wetted with water. For drier rooms, it is recommended to choose universal composition, and for the kitchen and bathroom - deep penetration primer. \

Building beacons are mounted on a dried surface, which will serve as a guide for successful plastering of the room. After installing beacons internal plaster aerated concrete walls will lie flat, and work will move faster.

The technology of finishing the facade of the building is somewhat different standards. First, the walls are cleaned of dust and leveled. Cracks and cracks are filled special glue for aerated concrete. After drying, a coat of primer for cellular materials must be applied. An important milestone preparatory work for plastering the facades of buildings made of aerated concrete is the reinforcement of the surface using a mesh. When choosing the type of reinforcing mesh, it is necessary to pay attention to the fact that under the influence of an alkaline environment, the material from which it is made can dissolve. Experts recommend choosing fiberglass types.

Aerated concrete plaster (video)

How to plaster aerated concrete surfaces

To repair aerated concrete house served long years it is necessary to competently approach the choice of material for wall decoration inside and outside. Masters distinguish as many as four options for processing walls made of cellular material:

1. Gypsum plaster.
2. Cement-sand mortar.
3. Facade mixtures.
4. Drywall.

The last option is the so-called dry plaster. What drywall is better or plaster on aerated concrete walls - controversial issue. Surface plastering is a costly and time-consuming process. Working with GKL takes less time and, as a result, we get smooth walls. Procedure:

• vapor barrier of surfaces using a polyethylene film, membrane or glassine;
• installation of the crate for fastening the plasterboard;
• fastening drywall to the frame;
• puttying joints between sheets using sickle tape.

On a gas-concrete wall leveled in this way, any type of decorative finishes. What kind of plaster is better to plaster aerated concrete walls? To answer this question, it is necessary to know the specifics of the solutions and their interaction with the base material.

Disadvantages of different types of plasters

Gypsum plaster

To the main benefits gypsum mortar for the treatment of walls made of aerated concrete include:

• fast drying;
• high level of adhesion;
• no need to apply an additional smooth layer;
• the possibility of leveling the plaster for finishing.

Among the masters, Knauf Rotband, Bonolit and Pobedit Velvet are popular.

Cement-sand plaster

If this option was nevertheless chosen for finishing aerated concrete walls, then there are several ways to improve the composition for better interaction with the base. You can increase the adhesion if you add more cement mortar to the standard mix recipe (8-10 kg of lime will be needed per 100 kg of concrete). The second option, which is acceptable, but still not recommended by the masters, is to add to cement-sand plaster mixes for processing aerated concrete (proportion 1:1). Among the leaders in sales of mixtures of this type are Baumit brand solutions and domestic Craps Extra-light.

Facade solutions

This type of mixture, in the case of aerated concrete, is suitable for both indoor and outdoor use. Main positive points working with special plasters for aerated concrete:

• high adhesion rate;
• resistance to deformation and cracking;
• vapor permeability is equal to that of aerated concrete;
• pleasant view;
• does not require additional finishing work.

Do-it-yourself plastering of walls on aerated concrete is shown in the video below. With a competent approach to work and the study of materials, even a novice master can handle plastering a house from aerated concrete blocks.