Canadian felling

The main advantage of the Canadian cabin, no doubt, is the minimization of gaps - cracks, on the sides of the bowls, after the shrinkage of the logs. This advantage still does not exclude, 100%, the appearance of cracks at the joints of logs, as well as cracks on the log itself.

And therefore, the use of sealant, subsequently, and often at the construction stage, is INEVITABLE. And it turns out - talking about the absence of cracks becomes inappropriate. It is logical to ask: “Why then this argument (about the absence of gaps) is presented as an advantage? If the sealant in any case closes ANY cracks.

The second advantage is a visual effect, since the planes of the cladding, even if they are illiterate (not in Canadian) executed, add a positive feeling from the log house. However, this is what is called a matter of taste, and there is no dispute about tastes.

For “hunting is worse than bondage,” a person wants - let him do it - We are “For”, with both hands!

The disadvantages can be safely attributed to a significant decrease in the thickness of the logs at the docking points, that is, in the corners. Especially with a double zatyos (both top and bottom). This, as a result, reduces the thermal insulation of the corner.

And also, since the sapwood is completely removed from the corner, the working life of this connection is reduced. It's just durability. Illiterate execution further exacerbates this problem.

Would you like to know our opinion about the Canadian felling?

The myth that CANADIAN CUTTING is Cool.

You can PR and Exploit any hyped topic, but there is a Fact that you can’t go around. You can only "close your eyes" to it. Or Not to see him, because he did not study the topic.

Where is the ancestral home of the Canadian felling?

It's very simple if you ask yourself:

Where did the North American Indians get log cabins from? If they mainly led a nomadic lifestyle, then why do they need log cabins? The real history of Russia has deep roots. This is well known to those who do not like it. And the great-grandchildren of those Russians who walked with their feet on the lands of the once Russian Alaska are learning more and more.

If the well-forgotten old is passed off as "new" - this will be another brand and money out of thin air. For there are many lovers of repackaging a well-known product into a “new” one. That sells better. Since "it differs in that ..." And there is more freedom with arguments.

This method of joining a log structure justified only in certain cases. And not without flaws.

To start...

Name - "Canadian felling" comes from the artificial surge in popularity of this sophisticated technology in Canada. Its roots are in Russia, because it was brought from there, as one of the many varieties of Russian felling. This technology is found in different nooks and crannies of the world. And residential buildings made of logs using this technology acquire some special attractiveness due to the geometry of the joints. Especially if they are executed COMPETENTLY, because there is also a “different” execution ...

It is called "How could" and "how could." This is what "refinement" is. One can only laugh at this kind of "refinement", because the log becomes so thin at the joints that the cups sometimes break off.

So that the groove does not "climb" on the notch, it is necessary to sacrifice the groove by making it already. And such a narrowing of the groove width will naturally worsen the thermal insulation. You can compare simply: or will the groove width be 15-18 cm (up to 25 cm), or 7-8 cm, and sometimes 6 cm? These are places in a wall 6 cm thick! Well, where does it fit?

Disadvantage of Canadian Cutting in that too much thickness is cut off from the entire array of logs. This is undesirable for a log house. Yes, and in the bowls, the undercut is squeezed out. And it gets deep.

If you make an upper notch, and then another lower one, then from the entire log mass there remains an “isthmus” with a section of less than 30% of the log section. A small triangle from the circle remains.

Usually they put a thick tangle of insulation there and they think that everything turned out cool. But where are you going? The fact that the log is cut by 70-75%, 25-30% left and the edges are very poorly protected? And you have to try very hard to keep them under load. Especially transportation. Otherwise, simply from a push or pressure, it may not withstand on the road or during loading.

There was a case in our practice: a team cut down a house according to Canadian technology, with a double fence. It was a long time ago and was then a great curiosity.

The brigadier with burning eyes, told everyone about the Canadian felling. Even then, from his stories, we had questions about this technology.

When they looked WHAT they cut, our fears were confirmed. And then they chopped, one might say, "C grade".

The joints at the corners seemed so weak, as the logs at the corners were badly sawn through, that they seemed to be quite unreliable. And on one element, it was a removal under the balcony one and a half meters long, it was somehow restless to look at. Not only was the thickness of the bowl "none", it was also without lower offsets. There was a feeling that he was just hanging in the air and was about to fall.

I say to the foreman: "So he can fall off from you." And he answered me that he was not going to correct the mistakes of the designers, as it is drawn - we do it.

Well, as a result, when loading into the car, he fell off them. And on what the balcony is now kept is unknown. How they solved this problem is not known.

And it turns out that we need a competent approach, taking into account these nuances, which allows us to avoid such troubles.

If Canadian felling is what you want, we can execute it in this way,

what You will sleep peacefully.

To do this, you just need to deviate from some of the canons established for the Canadian felling, and everything is guaranteed to fall into place.

Canadian technologies for the construction of sustainable and ecological houses have gained a lot of popularity in recent years. This is partly due to the naturalness and energy-saving function of such buildings. Prefabricated structures are also popular due to their economy with simplified assembly techniques. Against this background, the North American logging technology deserves attention. Despite its relevance in our time, the basic principles for the implementation of such houses were laid back in the middle of the last century. Another thing is that the Canadian technology of cutting log cabins has been significantly improved in our time. Among the advantages of this approach to construction, the same natural design, energy-saving advantages and, most importantly, reliability and durability stand out.

General information about technology

This method of forming a house is also called cutting into a bowl. According to the general features of construction, the technology can be attributed to varieties of traditional Russian felling. Moreover, it comes from Russia with its roots, but it has not taken root in our country, and Canadian masters have improved it and have been using it for more than a decade. Also, modern builders from Russia took a different look at the advantages that felling a log house using Canadian technology has, and are increasingly using this technique in their work. Among the features of this cutting method, one can note the complexity of the design. If classical log cabins are mainly formed according to the technique of simple laying of elements, then the installation configuration according to the Canadian method is highly accurate and thoughtful. Of course, it is painstaking installation that ultimately makes it possible to obtain high-strength houses that are not subject to biological destruction processes.

What is the difference from the Norwegian felling

Similar climatic conditions in Scandinavia and Canada led to a lot in common in approaches to construction. Therefore, the two technologies have more similarities than differences. For example, both methods make it possible to form a dense self-locking frame. Canadian felling, like Norwegian felling, is carried out without the use of nails, so the responsibility of architects designing such a house also increases.

But there are also significant differences. The main one is the use of large logs, the diameter of which can reach 50 cm. In the case of a Norwegian log house, a well-prepared carriage is more often used. Another distinguishing nuance lies in the technique of forming corners. North American builders use saddle cutting, which just ensures density in fitting logs. Largely due to this feature, Canadian log cabins are more popular. A photo with an example of fitting logs is presented below.

Markup execution

During the construction process, you should use a special tool that will improve the accuracy of the formation of the log house. This is a hammer, which has two sharp rods, with the help of which the contours of the future bowl are outlined. Carpenters call this tool a trait, but there are other names. The marking itself should be strictly guided by the terms of reference, which will be implemented by the Canadian felling of the log house. Projects, except for layouts, may take into account different parameters of the bowl. Of course, for buildings of a large area, these dimensions will increase - and vice versa. Markup should begin with determining the parameters of the logs. Next, you need to number each whip, which will eliminate the possibility of errors in further laying.

Creating a "saddle"

The base of the "bowl" is the "saddle" in which the logs are placed. It should also be noted that each joint must initially have a special spike. Outwardly, it may seem that the classic thorn-groove mounting technique is being implemented, but this is not entirely true, since the joint is performed by bringing together rounded planes - that is, through “saddles”. If you do Canadian felling of log cabins with your own hands, then you can make calculations according to a simplified scheme. For example, in determining the depth of the “saddle”, one should focus on the radius of the log, which will subsequently be laid in this niche. This forms an organic masonry with a tight connection of logs. In this case, it is necessary to retreat from the edge of at least 25 cm, and the marking of the “saddle” itself should be done with a sharp nail or since ordinary pens and markers are easily erased.

Cutting methods

In the process of cutting, it is necessary to use a high-quality tool, which can be a sharp cleaver or a chainsaw. Professional companies use special equipment for this task, which also makes it possible to form the contours of the “bowl” that are almost ideal in size. However, even in the homeland of technology, Canadian hand felling is more often used. How to make the base of the log house in this way? In the lower crown, a spike should be cut down along the central part of the “bowl”. A groove is made in the upper part in the same way. Further, during the assembly process, a heat insulator will be laid in these places. The fitted crowns are again dismantled in order to complete the overlay circle. At the final stage, the crowns are assembled so that the “bowls” are oriented downwards.

Tightness as a feature of the Canadian log house

In the process of designing and constructing a Canadian log house, it is important to be prepared for the fact that the technique of its formation itself will not provide an adequate level of airtightness. In other words, increased tightness excludes even the slightest ventilation in the walls. In this case, the dignity of the house in the form of high density turns into a disadvantage. The only way to remedy the situation would be to introduce forced ventilation equipment into the log house. Loose fit of logs immediately after construction should not be embarrassing - the shrinkage process eliminates the smallest cracks and seals the log house. Canadian felling, like most technologies for the construction of wooden houses, involves the implementation of additional thermal insulation, which also reduces the opportunities for natural ventilation.

Types of logs used

Do not think that the technology is a solution of the same type with no possibility of making adjustments. The largest space for individual choice is precisely the variety of the main material - logs. Or rather, methods of preparing wood. I must say that Canadian technology requires considerable investment in building materials, so there will be an opportunity to save money. However, you should start with the optimal solution for those who do not want to save on quality. In this case, it is worth preferring a cycled log. Such material retains the natural shape of the surface, which increases the aesthetic value of the log house. Drawing crowns in this design is performed with minimal tolerances, duplicating the complex shape of the elements.

No less attractive is the option of planed logs. All external flaws and defects of the log are smoothed out, which simplifies the drawing process. This is a durable and high-quality processed log, which is inferior to the scraped log only in aesthetic merits. If Canadian felling of log cabins is planned with minimal investment, then it is worth using a planed log, in which the drawing is performed in one approach. However, the tolerances of the "bowls" with grooves in this case increase, which may require caulking.

For beginners in working with log cabins, professional carpenters recommend using a saw for notches in the process of processing logs, and then remove the excess with a chisel. Be sure to have a ready-made log with a correctly made "bowl" in service - this will be an example that you can focus on in your work. In the absence of a reference log, in some cases tin templates are used, which will reduce the risk of inaccurate processing. But in any case, each crown must be additionally checked by level. There are other subtleties in Canadian felling that should be kept in mind. So, if an extra layer was removed during processing, this does not mean that the log becomes unusable. To replenish a few millimeters will allow a layer of insulation that will lie between the logs.

Benefits of Canadian felling

All the advantages of technology are revealed already during the operation of the house. Among them, one can single out the lack of reliability of a dense structure, durability and decorative qualities of a log house. By the way, outwardly the joints look unusual and even resemble patterns. Close mixing of wooden elements also affects the energy-saving function of the house. Heating costs are minimized if high-quality insulation was also performed during construction.

Disadvantages of Canadian felling

The construction process cannot be classified as easy, so inexperienced craftsmen often have problems. This applies to both marking and the process of laying logs. The construction itself requires serious costs if high-quality wood material is to be used. If you use cheap raw materials, then the operational advantages that such a log house should have are more likely to be leveled. The Canadian cabin allows you to provide good protection from the cold, but only due to the tightness of the structure. As already noted, this nuance does not have the best effect on the ventilation of the house. Structurally, it is impossible to get rid of this drawback during the construction process, therefore, they solve the problem by additionally supplying ventilation systems.

Conclusion

There are many construction techniques. Many of them have many common technological methods, thanks to which a durable, economical in maintenance and simply beautiful log house is obtained. Canadian felling, in turn, has its own unique features. They are mainly expressed in achieving a high degree of joint density, which ultimately ensures both the durability of the house and the optimal microclimate in its premises. At the same time, the technology does not exclude other advantages of wooden structures. These include environmental friendliness, a variety of planning configurations and undemanding maintenance.

Corner cuts are the basis of the construction of the walls of wooden houses. Corner joints are of two types - without residue (in the paw) and with the remainder (in the bowl, in the oblo).

Types of angle chopped joints

Corner cuts are the basis of the construction of the walls of wooden houses. Corner joints are of two types - without residue (in the paw) and with the remainder (in the bowl, in the oblo). Each of the mentioned types of cabins, in turn, has different design options, which differ in manufacturing complexity, details and efficiency.

Corner chopped joints with the remainder (output) are distinguished by the protruding ends of the logs at the corners of the log house. With this method of construction, the size of the room will be slightly smaller than the length of the logs, but such a corner design is the most durable and well protected from precipitation and wind, and has a more beautiful aesthetic appearance. The integrity and strength of the entire structure of a wooden house, thermal qualities and aesthetics depend on the quality of the felling.

Cuttings with residual or with release

Oblo felling

The cutting method leading in simplicity with the remainder and considered one of the oldest in Russian wooden architecture. Another such way of cutting is called cutting into a bowl. An interventional longitudinal groove (lunar groove) and a special bowl are created in the lower log - a semicircular cavity into which a transverse log is placed on top. This method is the least laborious, since the log does not have to be turned over - all the necessary operations are performed in the upper part of the log. But, it is worth considering that such a connection cannot boast of high performance properties. Firstly, the design, decided by the bowl up, is poorly protected from atmospheric influences - moisture easily gets into the bowl, due to which the insulation gets wet, and rots over the years. The same situation is observed with the groove between the logs. Secondly, the flat inner plane of the bowl is easily blown by the wind due to the absence of locking or transverse elements. Especially the situation worsens after the logs dry out and shrink, so regular caulking will be necessary.

chopping

The felling into the okhlupen is also known as the Siberian bowl or okhlupen. It is an inverted version of the connection in the bowl. Its design feature is that the mezhventsovy groove and the bowl are now in the lower part of the upper log. This type of corner connection is more resistant to precipitation. The felling into a flake requires more labor and skill in execution, in comparison with the above-mentioned felling into a wrap, since the log has to be turned over several times in the process of fitting. As practice shows, cutting into a flail can be called a cutting into a flail, therefore it is advisable to clarify everything in detail and discuss in detail with the performers all aspects of the connection - the location of the grooves, bowls and other subtleties.

Cutting into a fat tail

The felling in a fat tail differs in an improved bowl. In the design of the bowl, a special additional spike is created, called a fat tail. On the other side of the log, a groove is created into which the spike of the next log is inserted. This cutting method is remarkable in that it provides excellent strength and additional sealing of the corners, since in this case direct blowing is nullified.

When cutting into a fat tail, the bowl can be oriented both up and down. This type of connection is technically much more complicated than conventional bowls. However, due to its excellent performance, fat tail felling is widespread. This type of felling is often referred to as a felling with a cut or with a spike. In camom, however, this is a completely different kind of connection, which is described below.

Hook cutting

Talking about this type of chopped connection into a hook, it is worth noting that in practice and in specialized literature two completely different designs of a corner cut can be called a cut into a hook. Based on this, we will pay attention to both.

The first option is notable for the fact that the bowl is chosen only up to the middle of the log (from the axis of the log on one side). A semicircular groove is created from the top side of the log to the unselected rest of the bowl. Unlike many other cuts, thanks to this method of connection, the corner is completely protected from through blowing. The method of cutting into a hook is considered very durable and warm. However, it is worth considering that hooking into a hook is a very laborious process and requires great skill.

The second option differs in that it involves cutting the inner side of the logs and achieving a right angle with even inner walls. To some extent, the configuration of the joint of this cut resembles the bowl with a notch mentioned above. The only difference is that from the inside the log is crimped by a quarter of its diameter, and the spike-cut is created equal in length to the value of the heel.

Canadian felling

Canadian felling, despite the presence of common features with fat-tail felling, differs significantly from it in form. Unlike the round Russian bowl, the Canadian felling is trapezoidal in shape. The Canadian bowl is selected in the log in its lower part. Just like when connecting to a fat tail, a spike is left inside the bowl in the Canadian felling. On the log from the upper side, inclined notches are created, repeating the outlines of the bowl of the log lying on top and the groove for the tenon. The Canadian bowl is famous for its strength, tightness, and, consequently, warmth. The most basic advantage of the Canadian lock in comparison with a round bowl is its shrinkage behavior.

In a log house with round bowls, the following situation is observed - as the logs shrink and shrink, their diameter decreases, while the parameters of the bowl remain practically unchanged. This leads to the appearance of cracks in the corners that need to be caulked. On the other hand, the “cunning” design of the Canadian lock, on the contrary, becomes wedged even more under the influence of shrinkage. All this guarantees excellent tightness and the absence of cracks.

It is worth noting that the Canadian felling consists not only in the non-standard form of the lock, but also includes a whole range of technological nuances, which, only in the case of impeccable execution, provide excellent tightness of the structure for many years.

One of the advantages of Canadian felling is the complete absence of gaps between logs. This characteristic feature is observed not only in newly erected log cabins, but after their shrinkage and shrinkage. Thanks to this, it is enough to lay the insulation in the crowns only once and no longer remember about the caulk.

felling into the saddle

Cutting into the saddle - is a simplified way of Canadian felling with a spike. The only difference between this option is that a spike is not made in the bowl and a corresponding groove is not created in the upper part of the log. The rest of the design is similar to a Canadian castle.

norwegian felling

Norwegian cabin - almost identical to the Canadian cabin. The only difference between the Canadian and Norwegian felling is the gun carriage. The Canadian felling is made from a log, and the Norwegian from a gun carriage. Norwegian felling is made from a gun carriage, this is the so-called oval log. At the log, two parallel layers are cut or cut down from two sides, which makes the log oval along the entire length. The corner of the lock with serrations and a spike is similar to the Canadian lock. The walls, thanks to the smooth surfaces of the gun carriage, turn out to be even, and the volume of the room increases. The appearance of a Norwegian log house made of a large carriage is very impressive, the unique pattern of each carriage, the power and color of the house.

Cuttings without residue

Paw connection

This type of connection has a number of advantages over cuttings with residue. Firstly, material consumption is significantly reduced, which means that construction costs are reduced. Secondly, the rooms are more spacious. Thirdly, from the outside, the corners look perfectly straight. However, this connection method also has significant drawbacks. The main disadvantages of felling in the paw are the lower strength of the structure, increased windage, exposure to the negative effects of precipitation. To eliminate these shortcomings, the corners of the log cabins in the paw must be additionally veneered from the outside.

There are two options for felling into a paw - an oblique paw (dovetail) and a straight paw.

straight paw

With this type of felling, a small distance recedes from the corner and the log begins to be hewn from the sides first. Next, a “paw” is made at the end of the log - they create an even rectangle, which must necessarily fit perfectly with identical neighbors. The main secret that needs to be taken into account at the very beginning of cutting is that to create the first “paw”, you need to choose a thinner log and start from its narrow edge. Otherwise, if you start the procedure with a large diameter log, you won’t be able to make a rectangle on thin logs. The resulting width and length on all logs will be the same, but the height will be different, since it is determined by the diameter of the log.

As a rule, they try to supplement a straight paw from its inner corner with a rectangular root spike. This is done in order to achieve better performance properties, since in its pure form a straight paw is a rather weak connection. A spike is created on the upper face of the paw, and a groove for it is selected from the bottom side.

Koca paw

Cutting into an oblique paw is a more complex way of connecting. In this case, the shape of the paw is significantly modified, now it represents a trapezoid, the two planes of which are sloped. Features of the form formed the basis of the name "dovetail" (Fig. 2). This joint configuration provides greater corner strength than the "straight leg". However, this type of connection is very laborious and only highly skilled craftsmen can do it.

The skew paw can have an even more advanced configuration option - with a spike, which significantly improves its strength. During construction using the “oblique paw” connection, a template is removed from the first paw, for example, from plywood, and the remaining ends are marked on it.

When cutting into a slanting paw, you can use GOST 30974-2002 to select the correct connection options. In GOST, geometric dimensions are established for the paw, due to the diameter of the log. This will be especially advisable if the logs have almost the same diameter or a rounded (calibrated) log is used.

DESIGN FEATURES OF LOG WALLS

Despite the fact that wooden architecture has a long history, traditional technologies gradually undergo changes over time, acquiring more and more modern features. This also applies to wooden log cabins. The traditional structural units used for the construction of log walls since ancient times are gradually supplemented with various technical details that improve the performance of log walls. Next, we will touch on various design techniques that can be used to compensate for a number of shortcomings that arise due to the shrinkage of logs.

Connecting logs along the length

When constructing large wooden log cabins, developers usually face a situation where the length of the wall exceeds the length of the log. The standard log length is 6 meters. In this case, the logs must be butted with each other. So that the joints are not visible from the outside, the end connection of the logs is made exclusively inside the cuts. It is important to take into account that it is impossible to lay only all joined crowns in a row in height. At least through three rows of joined crowns, a solid log must necessarily go. However, dressing with a solid log is ideally best done through each row. In cases where the house has a long blank wall that does not intersect with other internal walls, an additional cut is made from short pieces of logs in this wall, into which all joints are removed.

To connect logs along the length, the dovetail configuration with a spike is traditionally used. This type of connection is quite simple in execution, but due to the shrinkage of logs, its strength may decrease over time.

Another method is often used for joining logs in the cut. With this method of joining, the logs are attached to the dowels. For each joined log, a distance of approximately 1/4 of the log diameter is set aside from the end and a hole is created for the dowels. In the adjacent perpendicular log, this hole is continued. Joined logs after installation of dowels are carefully connected with perpendicular cut logs.

Another very common way of joining logs is a screed with threaded studs. In this way, grooves are created at the joined logs from above at a small distance from the ends, and a cut is laid from them to the end. Then a stud with nuts and washers at the ends is placed in it, then the nuts are tightened, pulling the logs together. For the durability of the connection, the grooves (ideally logs) should be antiseptic with special wood preservatives.

Undercut

One of the most important components of the structure of log walls is the design of the interventional groove, also called the moon. To achieve a flawless connection of logs, the interventional groove should have a slightly smaller radius than the log itself. Then the log adjoins its neighbor with two ribs very tightly, and interventional insulation is placed in a small gap in the center of the groove. In this case, the edges of the groove protect the seal from getting wet. This design has one more significant advantage. Logs due to the shrinkage of wood are covered with cracks from the bottom side. The log literally "sets" when the edges of the seam slightly diverge. As a result, the logs, after shrinking the log house, fit even more tightly to each other. But if in the design the groove of the upper and the radius of the lower logs are identical in size, then after the occurrence of a crack, the edges of the groove will move apart, which will lead to the appearance of cracks between the logs, which will need to be caulked.

In this specific design of the lunar groove lies the main difference between traditional and modern cutting technologies. In the old days, tow or moss was traditionally used to insulate interventional joints, the log joints were repeatedly caulked. Nowadays, special rolls made of natural materials, for example tape jute, serve as interventional heaters, the width of the materials is selected depending on the width of the groove.

Compensation cut

The use of a compensatory relief cut at the top of the log is another modern refinement of centuries-old technology. The name itself eloquently makes it clear that the cut is created in order to remove excess internal stresses in the log. The location of the cut was chosen for a reason, because the cut is securely closed by the next log, which excludes the penetration of moisture into it. The cut in the process of shrinkage expands, but the number of cracks throughout the log, and most importantly, their depth and size decrease.

A cut is made along the axis of the logs, but does not protrude at their ends and does not pass through the locks. The absence of cuts at the ends is a very important point. After all, the indents from the ends and cuts are not created for decoration, but to avoid the penetration of cold air from the street into the wall through the outer ends. This is especially important if the building has walls, the inner end of which goes into the house, and the outer end onto the street. In this case, the creation of a cut along the entire length of the log will lead to a through blowing of the wall, which will lead to the need for its additional sealing.

Hanging corners

This technology applies to all compounds with a residue. The technology of curtaining the outer corners can significantly reduce the appearance of intervent cracks after shrinkage of the log house. The essence of the technology lies in the fact that the interventional grooves on the protruding ends of the logs are selected a little more, so as to achieve a gap of 5-8 mm between the logs. As a result, the releases of logs freely stick out in the air, without leaning on each other.

The advantage of this constructive solution is that, being in the air, the outer ends of the logs dry out much less than the rest of the log. As the log shrinks, the gaps gradually decrease, and the ends, in turn, shrink more tightly. While the absence of gaps would lead to hanging logs on the outer outlets. In this case, cracks would form on the inner parts of the corner, since the inner diameter of the logs would slightly exceed the diameter of the outlets in size.

CONSTRUCTION OF THE LOG

Under the first crown, during the construction of the log house, horizontal waterproofing is laid. It does not allow the wood to come into contact with the plane of the foundation, preventing the penetration of moisture and preventing the appearance of mold and rotting of the log house.

The laying of the first crown begins with half-logs, on top of which full-fledged round logs are then laid. Laying the first crown is given special attention, all operations must be carried out with the utmost accuracy. It is placed in a horizontal plane on the foundation, maintaining right angles. Be sure to carry out antiseptic first crown.

Between the rows of logs, an interventional sealant is laid. So that the sealing material does not move during the assembly of the crowns, it is recommended to fix it with a furniture stapler.

For joining logs, pins (dowels) are used, placing them from each other at a distance of 1.5-2 m. Nagels used in wooden housing construction are round rods (shank) made of wood of more durable species (oak, birch) than a log house, their diameter is 25-30 mm. For them, installations simultaneously drill a through hole in three logs. The length of the dowel must be 20% less than the hole prepared for it. Nagel's macce walls are placed in a checkerboard pattern.

After installing the entire log house, logs and beams, rafters are cut, then the draft floor and roof are mounted. The roof is made temporarily, covered under roofing felt or film. The log house is treated with an antiseptic, and the construction site is mothballed for a year, because. the log house should shrink within a year.

After shrinkage of the log house, the final installation of the truss system and subfloors is carried out. In the process of shrinking the log house at home, gaps appear after the wood dries out, so it is necessary to re-caulk the log house, then sand it and cover it with finishing impregnation (oil, varnish, paint, stain, etc.) of which today there is a huge amount. The truss system is re-tightened and the roof is mounted, and then all the necessary internal finishing work. Windows, doors, finished floors and ceilings, electrical and plumbing are inserted.

Articles on construction

Finishing materials from wood

Finishing materials made of wood - the best for life. With the complex stages of planning and building your home behind you, you are on the cusp of perhaps the most creative stage of the job—furnishing your home. And if a wooden house, as a rule, does not need external decoration, then internal, even the most minimal, is necessary.

At all times, the quality of log buildings was measured by their durability. The technology has been perfected over the centuries, the masters passed their art from generation to generation.

Canadian felling was invented by Russian settlers who set foot on American soil at the beginning of the 18th century. Solid and beautiful have gained wide popularity in Canada, hence the name of the method.

Canadian felling technology

Canadian felling is used in the construction of structures from massive logs of a round profile. The diameter of the logs varies from 30 to 60 cm, the thicker the log, the better. The “Canadian cup” log cabin is easily recognizable – the cup is in the shape of a trapezoid, there are side notches. This technology allows you to firmly jam the grooves and ensure that there are no gaps between the logs. In the process of shrinkage, the log house forms an almost monolithic wall. The best materials for building a Canadian log house are pine, larch or cedar, harvested in the winter.

Each log used is selected with the utmost care.
Processing is carried out exclusively by hand, this preserves the upper protective layer of wood fibers - sapwood.
Precise fit ensures that there are no gaps between the logs.
The layers of insulation are not visible, it creates the feeling of a solid array of wood.
Creating a comfortable microclimate indoors - the house is warm in winter and cool in summer.
Unpretentiousness in operation - no work on insulation and elimination of cracks and cracks is required.

Initially, the Canadian felling differed from the Russian and Norwegian ones only in the shape of the bowl, which, due to its trapezoidal shape, tightly fitted the adjacent log during shrinkage. However, over time, additional spikes and grooves inside the bowl began to be used, with their help it was possible to achieve a tight connection of the logs and an ideal pairing of the crowns. The junction of the inner groove and the spike is called a “tail tail”, in the process of shrinkage, the logs are tightly connected to each other, while the entire mass of the insulation remains inside, which improves the appearance of the building. To minimize defects that occur during the shrinkage process, a special technology is used - undercutting. A cut is made along the axis of the log, its depth ranges from 5 to 15 mm. Due to this, the log does not crack during shrinkage, and retains its original shape.

Economics of construction: comparing Canadian and Russian felling

The erection of a log cabin of a Canadian felling is an expensive process, but quite justified in terms of durability. You can visually distinguish the Canadian felling from the Russian one even in the photo by the presence or absence of characteristic cuts in the felling areas.

And yet, the main difference is the spike in the “Canadian cup” - it is he who guarantees the absence of gaps between the logs and the high heat-saving characteristics of the building.

The technology in this case is much more complicated, and the cost of a log house will be higher than when using a Russian felling. Time costs are also higher, this is due to the difficulty of fitting the spikes and grooves inside the bowl and careful grinding of the wood.

When choosing a cutting option, first of all, the percentage of wood shrinkage is taken into account, because over time, the diameter of a log can become 10% smaller. This will lead to a violation of the proportions of the cup and the appearance of cracks. Natural shrinkage is an inevitable process, and even the highest quality logs sag, gaps form, which will have to be filled with tow or other specialized material. It is at this stage that the advantage of the Canadian felling over the Russian felling becomes obvious: the deformation of the cups will be almost zero, while cracks are formed extremely rarely. In addition, the shape of the cup prevents the accumulation of moisture, reducing the likelihood of decay and damage to wood.

The disadvantage of the Canadian felling can be considered the complexity of execution. All work is done by hand, so that the top dense layer of wood remains on the logs, which ensures high resistance of the building to environmental influences. The increase in money and time spent on building a house using Canadian technology will fully justify itself in 5-7 years, the cost of insulating and repairing a Russian log cabin will result in no less.

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Maintenance and operation costs after construction

The main expense in the operation of the log house is to ensure the tightness of the walls. The cracks that appear during shrinkage must be caulked. Houses built using Russian cutting technology require caulking 2-3 times a year for 10 years after construction is completed. Caulking is a process of filling the gaps formed with heat-insulating materials - tow or jute fiber. This is a very laborious task that requires special skills. Accordingly, the cost of work will be very high. The use of putties and sealants for caulking is unacceptable, since the process of natural air exchange in the layers of wood is disrupted, this leads to an increase in humidity and the development of mold and fungus.

Canadian felling does not provide for additional wall caulking during shrinkage. A layer of insulation is laid in the crowns during construction, while observing the construction technology, the walls reliably retain heat even in the most severe winter. Due to the special shape of the bowl, the dried upper log is tightly connected to the lower one, a monolithic joint is formed that does not require additional insulation. That is why Canadian log cabins are often not lined from the inside, while heat loss is minimized.

Log housescan be built using different technologies. Which one to use depends on many factors:

• functional purpose of the building;
• its total area;
• the presence of a certain type of building material;
• terrain and climatic conditions;

Cutting methods "with residue" and "without residue"

When performing a log house using the "with a remainder" method, or cutting "into a bowl", a recess is cut down in the logs, and the next log is laid in it. With such a log, they protrude beyond the boundaries of the walls for a certain distance (25 cm on average). Thus, the consumption of material increases at the rate of 50 cm for each log in the log house. Such costs are offset by good protection of the corners of the log house from wind and rain. It is believed that such a log house is superior to other construction technologies in terms of stability. If the logs are processed carefully and with high quality, the building looks attractive and even decorative, moreover, it does not require either external or internal wall decoration. This cutting method has many varieties:

• russian cup,
• canadian cup,
• norwegian cup
• German cup and others.

To date, the most common and technological methods are considered "Norwegian castle" and "Canadian cup".

Of the many known methods of erecting classic log houses, there are two technologies for felling log cabins that allow you to avoid cracks during shrinkage of the house and do without its constant caulking.

Canadian cup

Canadian felling house "Canadian cup" there are undeniable advantages over other methods of making log joints. When cutting in the Canadian way, the log in the bowl and in the horizontal groove is adjusted especially accurately, there are no gaps with such a connection. But this is not the most important thing. Gaps are not formed even after shrinkage of the log house, which is explained by the technological features of the connection of logs. The Russian "cup" requires after performing periodic caulking due to the formation of cracks during shrinkage.

The Canadian cup is shaped like a trapezoid. Due to the trapezoidal shape, the bowl does not form cracks during shrinkage, since the upper log is pressed against the lower log during shrinkage, evenly settles and wedges in the trapezoidal cup. Thus, the geometry of the entire structure is preserved, the logs do not form cracks and do not twist.

norwegian castle

Norwegian felling "Norwegian castle" is carried out from the gun carriage. Such a log is made with a special profile: along the entire length of the log, one or two sides are cut. For the carriage, only a thick log is used, with a diameter of at least 270 mm. According to Norwegian standards, the thickness of a hewn log for external walls should not be less than 200 mm. In such a house, specific triangular-shaped notches are visible in the corner joints, and interventional heat-insulating materials are not at all noticeable, as they are located in longitudinal recesses.

When the log house shrinks, the corner joints of the carriage are connected "wedge to wedge", forming a very strong connection due to its own weight. This connection eliminates the deformation of the gun carriage. The wood dries, but no cracks appear, so the caulking of the walls may not be carried out.

The logs retain their height, so when shrinking, it is not necessary to increase the number of crowns. Since part of the wood from the log is hewn, the dimensions of the interior space of the house increase.

The gun carriage can be used independently for the entire frame, or can be combined with an unhewn round log.

The external attractiveness of the material allows you to do without external and internal decoration.

For log cabins arranged according to Norwegian technology, pine wood is used, or less often - other conifers. Such wood is the most dense and resinous, therefore it is less prone to decay.

Durability of a log house

Log houses are particularly durable.

Until now, chopped wooden huts, built in the 17th century with only one ax, have been preserved. Of course, they do not look very modern, but they are in good condition and suitable for living.

A wooden house in Sweden has been standing for 776 years. In the Swedish city of Mura, an old farm, consisting of sixty old wooden houses, has been preserved. They are almost perfectly preserved, it is quite possible to live in them.