Laying a subfloor is a rather laborious operation, but it is absolutely necessary. The device of the lower floor of the house serves as its basis and is connected with the foundation. The rough floor serves as an intermediate link between the foundation and the final finish, while performing a number of specific functions.

1. Draft floor as a structural element of the house

After tying the foundation, the first step is to install the lower floor of the house. It can be carried out further work for wall installation. This is especially true for building frame house on frame-frame technology, and laying bricks, wall blocks from the inside requires solid foundation under your feet. In addition, the lower overlap performs a number of other functions, being necessary element building.

Draft floor:

1. Carries out the distribution of all loads on the lower floor, such as the weight of load-bearing walls and partitions, all people, furniture, home appliances and appliances
2. Serves as the basis for the work on assembling the frame and erecting walls
3. Is the basis for the finishing floor
4. It is a component of the overall shell of the house, protecting it primarily from low temperatures

Obviously, all the listed functions of the subfloor impose special requirements on its installation, such as strength, surface evenness, resistance to atmospheric influences.

2. Types of floors

The main reason for installing various designs subfloor is a difference in the type of construction of the houses themselves. The house can be stone, block, built of logs or thick timber, frame. Under Various types houses can be mortgaged different types foundations:

• slab
• Tape
• Columnar
• Pile screw

The deepening of the foundation and its strapping can also vary somewhat. However, there are some common features and features of the device of draft floors for all types of structures. In many cases, the base for the subfloor is the strapping bars, which receive and transfer all loads from the floor directly to the foundation.

In accordance with their functions, the draft floors are several layers responsible for each of them:

1. The base of the floor is either soil or floor elements
2. The underlying layer is a layer of gravel, sand, slag, expanded clay, etc.
3. Base for coating (screed) - monolithic leveling layer
4. Layer of hydro and thermal insulation
5. The floor covering itself

Draft floors are divided into three main types:

• By lags
• By the beams
• On the ground

The difference between the types of subfloor is in the way it is laid, as can be seen from the name.

3. Preparation for installation of the subfloor

If the foundation of the house does not provide for a basement, then the ground serves as the basis for laying the subfloor. It must be prepared accordingly for the device of the subfloor.

Grass is removed, various construction garbage and vegetable soil. An important point: you need to dry clay and loamy soils as best as possible, so they can contain a lot of moisture in the base. It is also impossible to use soils with an admixture of snow and ice.

The site is then carefully leveled. If necessary, soil can be added to the pits. After adding the soil, it is distributed in an even layer and tamped with manual or mechanical rammers.

4. Laying the subfloor along the logs

The device of the floor along the lags is a fairly popular way.

AT this case manufactured wooden frame, which is laid on a strapping beam or other specially made supports. The logs themselves are a bar or a thick board, sometimes placed on edge.

In this case, the height of the floor should be insignificant - so that there is no danger of failure to a great depth. The distance from the floor to the log should not be more than 25-30 cm.

With a significant width of the room, the logs will have a large length, and it is not enough to lay them only on the external strapping beam. In this case, additional supports are placed under the logs. There are several ways to arrange supports for logs.

The base is concreted and a thick board is laid on it, which serves as a crate for installing a log. This method is especially well suited for a low base above the ground. If the distance under the floor is large 15-20 cm and the floor is not concreted, posts are installed under the boards of the lower crate, in increments of about 80 cm. The posts can be installed in this way:

1. Holes come off, slightly wider than the cross section of the columns (35-40 cm)
2. They are concreted so that the upper base protrudes slightly above the ground.
3. Brick columns are laid out.

Usually it is enough to lay out the columns in two bricks in two layers, perpendicular to one another. You can completely make columns out of concrete, but then you will need to build a high formwork.

The height of all columns must be displayed in one plane. This is controlled already when laying the foundations for them. If necessary, the height of the columns is adjusted with various substrates: between the surface of the boards and the lags, wooden spacers, whose dimensions are about 20-25 cm in length, 10-15 cm in width, and thickness - about 3 cm. They correct the horizontal plane of the lag. For fine adjustments, thin sheets of plywood are usually used.

On top of the posts, you need to lay a layer of waterproofing, for example, from roofing material.

The distance between the lags should not exceed 0.5 m. A small gap must be left near the walls, taking into account the deformation of the wood.

On top of the log for the finishing floor, you can fix plates made of durable material - OSB or thick plywood. It is recommended to do this "out of the box", that is, the subsequent layer of plywood or OSB is slightly shifted relative to the previous one.

If necessary, the cavities between the lags can be filled with insulation. It can be expanded clay or mineral wool - depending on the degree of necessary insulation of the house.

5. Floor on adjustable joists

Recently, it has acquired a method of installing a log on adjustable stands. These are plastic screw supports, strong enough and light. They are equipped with a stand square section, which is placed on a rigid base and a screw, with adjustable height. With their use, you can quickly equip the subfloor, moreover, it will not come into contact with the base, it will be well ventilated, and therefore the need for waterproofing disappears.

The order of installation of such lags is as follows:

1. Holes are drilled in the log boards - in increments of 50-80cm
2. Lag is installed in the right place
3. The support is attached to the base
4. Racks are twisted to the required level

6. Subfloor flooring on beams

The next way to lay the subfloor is to install it on the beams. Here, the main structural element is wooden beam. It is made from timber rectangular section. To determine the cross section of the beam, all load characteristics on the base of the ground floor premises are taken into account. not to use heavy thick timber which is physically difficult to work with, you can use twin boards or boards mounted on edge. A good option would be to use hewn logs.

The load on the beams is calculated from a number of parameters that we mentioned above. It is believed that the total load from the weight of furniture, fittings, etc. can be about 400 kg per 1 m2 of floor area.

The beams are mounted parallel to each other. With a room width of more than 6 meters, additional supports must be installed under the beams. These can be columns, the installation of which was described above.

Beams are fastened directly to the walls. A hole is cut in the wall corresponding to the section of the beam, and the beam is laid into it with its end. To isolate from external influences, this hole is laid with tow. The installation depth of the beams in the walls depends on the section of the beams. The thinner the beams, the deeper they should go into the holes (up to 100-150mm).

Often cross beams for the subfloor, they are elements of the lower piping of the foundation.

7. Laying the floor on the ground

In many cases, especially if the floor height is low, it is laid using the “on the ground” method. In this case, you do not have to spend a lot of expensive lumber.

Let's consider this method in detail. It consists of several stages:

1. Base Leveling
2. Backfilling with a layer of sand 10-15 cm at a humidity of 7-10%
3. Sand compaction
4. Adding crushed stone and gravel with a thickness of 8-20 cm at a moisture content of 5-7%
5. Laying adobe-crushed stone or adobe-gravel layer with a thickness of about 10 cm
6. Compaction of this layer and the appearance of moisture on the surface
7. Pouring concrete mix

As a result, after hardening, we will get a flat solid surface on which you can immediately lay the finishing floor. Subfloor layers for better fastening and solidity of the screed is reinforced, as a rule, with a reinforcing mesh. Thermal insulation of such a floor is conveniently carried out with expanded polystyrene plates.

8. Device of couplers

The top layer of the subfloor on the ground is called the screed. The straps are made from cement-sand mortars. The main purpose of the screed is to create a perfect flat surface for laying a finished floor. To bring the plane, so-called beacons are installed. These are, as a rule, slats with a thickness selected for the creation of a plane. The mixture is applied to the floor and accelerated to the height of the rails.

The junction of the screed to the walls and partitions must be laid with waterproofing. The surface during the laying process is continuously leveled, as the concrete tends to settle.

Work on the creation of screeds must be carried out in warm time year, from optimum temperature air at least 15 degrees. On top of the main screed, it is recommended to apply a self-leveling layer (its thickness is about 5-10 mm) using the bulk method. To do this, there are many different mixtures on sale.

The final stage of the screed device is its primer and waterproofing. The surface before applying primers is cleaned and primed without gaps.

9. Conclusion

The device of draft floors is a rather laborious process that requires compliance with all technologies, accuracy and well-known craftsmanship. In the simplest cases, you can do it yourself, but it’s better to turn to professionals - the structural strength of the building, the evenness of the surface and its suitability for finishing, as well as sufficient insulation and waterproofing of the whole house, largely depend on the installation of the floor.

Specialists of the company "K-DOM" are ready to perform work on flooring, both rough and finish, in compliance with all requirements. Works can be performed both separately and as part of the construction of turnkey cottages.

Even without reading the instructions for laying a particular coating, you can immediately say that the base on which it will be laid must have such qualities as evenness, strength, dryness and cleanliness. But only how to get this, if the surface before your eyes is clearly far from ideal? It is somewhat difficult to answer the question unambiguously, since different coatings subfloor can meet different requirements.

Floors are a kind of construction, which consists of two types of bases - "finishing" and "rough" and lies on the carrier. For example, between floors, this function is performed by the overlap, or rather, its load-bearing elements. Depending on what material is used for the finishing floor, it can be plank, parquet, tile, concrete, etc. As for the rough one, which lies under the finishing one, this is a multilayer “pie”, the structure of which determines:

• base design;
• finishing type;
• General requirements.

The device of subfloors in any case, despite the differences, combines the same components:

• underlying - having perceived the load from the coating, evenly distributes it over the base and transfers it to the walls; in this capacity, a floor slab and soil that has undergone the appropriate training can act;
• leveling - sufficiently dense serves to level the surface of the previous layer; at the same stage, the planned slope of the surface is performed, using a screed for this or resorting to other methods;
• intermediate - interlayer - a ligament between the coating and the underlying layers of the floor;
• insulating - provide noise, heat and moisture insulation, where exactly they will be located depends on the functional load of the structure and the method of the device.

The draft is laid from a low-quality board, that is, a slab, a junk board, a picket fence - all that it is possible to lay heat, steam and waterproofing materials on. The point here is sensitivity to humidity and temperature fluctuations, therefore, in order to minimize the deformation of the subsequent finishing one, materials capable of deformation are chosen for the draft. Depending on where it is being built, perform:

• along the beams
• by lags,
• on the ground.

The first ones are arranged over non-insulated undergrounds, and the finishing floors of the first floors should be 80–100 cm above the ground. In this case, the vapor barrier layer is laid between the flooring and the plank floor.

Lag installation

You can also do it yourself. For alignment with this method, a special frame made of wooden bars is used - a log. Similar structures are laid in buildings where the height of the underground is not more than 25 cm. They are supported by antiseptic wooden pads of the following sizes: length - 20-25 cm, width - 10 mm, thickness - from 25 mm. When laying on logs, you must follow the following recommendations:

Many people are concerned about the question, is it possible to lay logs without significant damage to quality at a lower cost? Yes, it is possible - the output is in a sparse laying of the lag. In addition, with a low landing, the floor may not be insulated. One of the important points in this technology is the choice of flooring. It should be a thin raw board, which is then laid in a diagonal direction. A board thinner than the norm is also suitable for a finishing coating - all the same, the thickness of the base in total will be within the normal range. Moreover, the intersection of the fibers gives the effect of plywood, which eliminates the deflection under the influence of loads.

The device of the subfloor can also be carried out on floor slabs, since the flooring in this case does not require either supports or a log.

On the ground: we provide a basement, insulation

When arranging the floors of the first floors, roughing is often done. Schematically, the generalized design of his “pie” looks like this, starting from the bottom up:

• well-packed bedding river sand– 50–70 mm;
• or crushed stone - 100-120 mm;
• rough concrete screed - 50–70 mm;
• thermal insulation - depending on the region of location;
• finishing screed - minimum thickness - 50 mm, reinforced with mesh, cell - 10x10 cm.

If the house is not basement and on the first floor no special loads are expected, rough screed, as such, can not be done. In these cases, the expanded expanded clay is poured with a liquid solution of cement and sand, taken in a ratio of 1: 2, allowed to harden and the subsequent layers continue to be laid, starting with waterproofing.

If it is supposed to lay a warm floor, then it is necessary to provide a gap between the draft and the foundation of 10–20 mm. It is usually filled with foamed polyethylene or polyurethane. This is done in order to prevent cracking of concrete during its thermal expansion.

An important point is also the level of location of the finishing screed.

• With an uninsulated basement, the screed is placed above the level of the top of the basement. Otherwise, a “bridge” of cold will form in this place and the wall will freeze through.
• With an insulated basement, there are no restrictions.

Subfloor insulation

With any technology, roughing and finishing should be located at different levels:

• draft,
• free space,
• finishing.

Thermal protection of the floor is provided by filling this void with insulation. Before laying, the subfloor is additionally treated with an antiseptic, even with the help of used motor oils, and a vapor barrier is laid.

It is not recommended to use this option in a residential building due to the stable specific “aroma”.

Mineral wool is considered the best option for insulation, although it can be replaced

• any other synthetic insulation that is not subject to decay;
• loose expanded clay or;
• hard foam.

Ventilation holes should be provided in the corners.

Waterproofing is an important stage of a warm house

Particular attention should be paid to waterproofing in rooms that are distinguished by high humidity, say, bathrooms. The choice of technologies is quite wide. For example, coating waterproofing using special penetrating compounds, or waterproofing with synthetic components such as polyurethane, epoxy resin and others. Coating polymer-cement waterproofing is considered to be the most effective either with quick-setting elements or with synthetic additives. The latter are especially relevant for houses with unstable foundations.

When building a new house or renovating an old one, it is very important to properly prepare the floor for laying. floor covering. If you are going to make a subfloor in wooden house with your own hands, then you should know the methods of its construction and the execution technology to select the best option. To choose the right subfloor option for wooden house, you need to take into account the features of the flooring, as well as the need for hydro and thermal insulation.

floor construction

Regardless of the choice of the subfloor installation method, the following layers should be provided in the constructive cake:

• Underlayment layer. This is the bottom of the floor pie. The layer is needed to evenly distribute the loads from the elements laid above. Usually, floor slabs, beams (logs), rammed soil or concrete preparation act as this structure.
• Intermediate layer needed to connect the lower and upper elements pie in one piece (it is not available in all designs).
• insulating layer performs the functions of heat, hydro or sound insulation of the floor. The choice of materials for this layer depends on the design features, the purpose of the room and the type of flooring.
• Rough leveling layer. The purpose of this part of the pie is to level the bumps of the previous layer. Sometimes at this stage the required slope of the floor surface is provided. The arrangement of this layer can be carried out using a dry backfill of sand or gravel, or by installing a concrete screed.
• Finishing leveling layer. It is not always needed. Laying the finishing layer is required when arranging fine finish floors with laminated boards, carpet or linoleum. Finishing alignment does not need to be done under ceramic tiles.

Two floor options are suitable for a wooden house:

• arrangement of floors on logs;
• you can make a dry or pour a wet screed.

In turn, the arrangement of floors along the logs in a private wooden house can be carried out on beams or a concrete base. By the way, such floors can be arranged in brick house or building from foam blocks.

Draft floor along the lags

Preliminary stage of flooring by joists

If you decide to make a rough floor on the logs with your own hands, keep in mind that the logs are supporting element for laying rough flooring from plywood, boards, OSB. In turn, depending on the design of a private structure, logs can be laid on poles, beams or a mortgage element. They can be used not only in a private wooden house, but also in a foam block house.

If the room has big sizes, then fastening the lag with the edges to the beams will not provide the proper strength of the base. In this case, intermediate posts must be used. Step support posts depends on the cross section. Usually the step is taken equal to 0.8-1 m. The material of the columns is brick or concrete. Even in a house made of foam blocks, it is better to make columns from durable materials.

The column is installed on a shallow concrete foundation. The installation of the foundation is carried out along a layer of compacted sand and crushed stone. The brick column is isolated from the log and the foundation with rolled insulating material, for example, roofing material.

The technology of the device subfloor on the logs

The draft floor in a wooden house with lags is done in the following order:

1. Before mounting the log, it is necessary to stretch the fishing line above the surface and mark the places where the beams are attached. This will allow you to set the elements at the same level, which will facilitate further work on the floor.
2. If the installation of a log in a private wooden house will be carried out on a base of concrete, foam blocks or bricks, then they must be protected with a layer of waterproofing. So wooden elements will not absorb moisture from the base. As insulation, you can use a dense polyethylene film. In addition, the logs must be treated with flame retardants and antiseptics.
3. The installation step of the lag depends on the load on the floor. For a living room, the optimal lag step is 45 cm. The lags are screwed to the base using self-tapping screws and pre-installed in drilled holes dowels.
4. All wooden structural elements must be treated with impregnations that protect the wood from rotting and burning.
5. If the floor of the first floor is being installed, then the room must be protected from moisture and insulated. To do this, bars are nailed to the lower part of the side surfaces of the log on both sides. You can use a bar with a section of 50x50 mm.
6. Next, you need to make a filing of plywood or boards for laying in the gaps between the insulation lags. To do this, plywood sheets are cut along the width of the gap between the lags and stacked on top of the bars. Plywood is nailed to the bars. As a result, you will get a structure made of wood, like the letter "Sh".
7. Heat before styling insulating material it is necessary to make a waterproofing layer. To do this, the insulating material is laid on the logs so that it sags in the gaps between them. For these purposes, you can take a membrane waterproofing or plastic film.
8. Now the insulation is being laid in the gaps between the lags directly on top of the insulating material. Thermal insulation can be done using mineral or basalt wool. We attach the film to the lags with a stapler.
9. To properly make the floor, you need to remember about the vapor barrier. To do this, the film is laid on top of the log and heat-insulating material. Be sure to overlap adjacent sheets by 15 cm. The joints are glued with adhesive tape.
10. Now you can do the laying of the rough flooring. It can be made from plywood, chipboard, boards or OSB.
11. Depending on the choice of flooring, a finishing floor can be laid further or a final leveling can be performed for laying tiles, laminate or linoleum.

Video instruction - installation of the floor on the logs:

Dry floor screed

Often the subfloor in frame house can be arranged on the ground. Sometimes such a base near the floor is also made in houses made of foam blocks or bricks without a basement. As a rule, a dry screed is laid on a certain base. In this case, the base of the floor will consist of the following layers:

• rammed soil;
• sand compacted pillow 100 mm high;
• crushed stone backfill 100 mm high is also rammed (for additional waterproofing, crushed stone can be treated with cement milk);
• this is followed by concrete preparation, which performs the functions of a preparatory floor layer (filling height 7-10 cm).

Important: if difficult geological conditions are observed at the construction site (swelling of soils, high level ground water), then mounting concrete preparation better to do with reinforcement.

For reinforcement concrete pouring use a rod with a diameter of 8 mm. A grid with cells measuring 150x150 mm is made from it. The installation of the reinforcing mesh is carried out on mortar piles so that after pouring the concrete preparation, the mesh is in the thickness of the layer. On each side, it must be protected by a two-centimeter layer of concrete. This must be done to protect the reinforcement from corrosion.

Subfloor dry screed technology

After pouring the concrete preparation, further installation of the floor can be done after 28 days. Work on the installation of a dry screed in a wooden house is carried out in the following order:

1. To properly arrange a dry screed, you first need to make insulation. To do this, insulation made of polyethylene film is laid on the base. Strips of material must be laid with an overlap of 150 mm and brought to the walls of the room to a height 2 cm higher than the level of the screed. The joints of the film are glued with adhesive tape (see video).

Important: take care not to damage the integrity of the insulating material. If there are cuts or punctures, you need to apply patches.

1. Further along the perimeter of the room, it is attached to the walls damper tape. It is needed to compensate for deformation changes in the floor surface, as well as to protect against impact noise. The width of the tape should be slightly larger than the thickness of the tie (see video).
2. Now you can do the installation of beacons. As beacons, it is better to use drywall guides. Their laying is carried out on mortar heaps. The step of the beacons from the walls of the room is 30 cm, between themselves - along the length of the rule or 1 meter.
3. After the beacons are leveled, granular material is poured between them, for example, expanded clay sand. Its surface is leveled by the rule according to the lighthouses.
4. Next, plywood sheets, OSB, chipboard or GVL are laid. They will perform the functions of the subfloor. Before laying the finish surface, they must be treated with a deep penetration primer.

Video instructions for installing a dry floor screed.

Draft floors have several types according to their purpose and method of installation. First, you should consider their features and differences, and then talk in detail about the method of construction. As always, with an example, we will consider the most difficult option, if it becomes clear, then it will be much easier to make subfloors simpler.

1. According to the lags. Most often used as a base for finishing floor coverings with low load-bearing performance: laminate floors, linoleum, parquet board or block parquet. Draft floors in these cases perceive loads and evenly distribute them over the floor area. Sometimes such floors are called the base, this name is used by inexperienced builders, but it has the right to life.
2. Under the lags. In the lower part of the lag, cranial bars are fixed, they serve as the basis for attaching the subfloor, insulation, and vapor and waterproofing.
3. By load-bearing beams . In our opinion, the most good option, but you need to think it over even at the design stage of a wooden house. Why do we think so?

   The distance between the floor beams is ≈ 1–1.2 meters, specific values ​​\u200b\u200band thickness values ​​are calculated depending on the load. Then logs are placed on the floor beams with a distance of 40–60 cm. Why do double work, it is much more expedient to install floor beams a little more often, while reducing their size. The same beams will perform the function of the lag. What will be the result? Significant material savings.

   If we calculate the amount of timber for beams and logs in the traditional construction option, then the second option makes it possible to achieve savings of at least 40%. At modern prices for natural high-quality (and for these works lumber is used only from the very High Quality) in cash transfers, the savings amount to significant amounts. Another definite plus is the increase in height interior spaces, with a lag height within ten centimeters, this is a noticeable increase.

Any low-quality materials can be used for the subfloor, unless it serves as the basis for the installation of finishing floor coverings. It can be either pieces of boards, OSB sheets, plywood or chipboard, or unedged boards. The thickness of the materials does not matter; boards or slabs with a thickness of one to three centimeters can be used on the same floor. It will be laid on thermal insulation materials, for them, slight differences in the height of the base are not critical. Of course, unedged boards should definitely be sanded, wood pests breed under the bark.

Second important point for all subfloors - protection against negative impact moisture. Currently, there are quite effective antiseptics in the implementation, with which you need to soak the boards at least twice.

Important. Before impregnation, lumber must be dried. The lower the relative humidity, the more they will absorb antiseptics, the more reliable the protection.

No antiseptic - not a problem. Just oil the boards, the effect will be exactly the same. Handle the ends of the boards for the subfloor with particular care. An inattentive attitude to the ends is one of the main mistakes of inexperienced builders. They first lay the cut boards on the supporting elements, and then they process two surfaces with a brush, they forget about the ends. The ends of the wood absorb the most a large number of moisture, in this place all capillaries of wood are open.

And the last. Keep in mind that no antiseptics will help if the underground of a wooden house does not have an effective natural ventilation. The draft floor will sooner or later lose its original properties. You will have to change not only it, but also the entire floor covering.

If you are afraid of rodent penetration through the air, put on them metal gratings. If it seems to you that in winter the floor in the rooms on the ground floor is very cold due to the air (and this can be), then close them for a cold period of time. But be sure to open all the vents with warming. Ventilation, by the way, required condition durability lower rims log house.

Practical advice. Using smoke or a lighter, check the effectiveness of the products. Bring open fire to the holes and observe how and with what force the flame reacts to the air currents. Weak air movement - take immediate action to improve ventilation efficiency.

How to make a draft floor in a wooden house

Consider one of the most complex options- arrangement of draft floors along the logs without floor beams. This gender is often found in small rooms a private house or in cases of features of the log construction technology, when floor beams were not used.

Important. Be sure to impregnate all lumber twice with an antiseptic, before that dry them well.

Step 1. Markup. Around the perimeter of the room with a water or laser level make a zero mark. This will be the level of the finished floor. From this mark, you need to minus the thickness of the finish coating and the lag. Make a second mark, at this level there should be supports under the logs. They can be made from concrete, blocks or bricks. There must be concrete in the ground, only the above-ground part is allowed to be laid out with bricks.

Step 2 Make supports in any way, the distance between them should take into account the linear parameters of the log and the total load on the floor.

Step 3. Put all the logs under the rope, do not forget to isolate them with two layers of roofing material.

Practical advice. If possible, then at the bottom of the log along the entire length, nail long boards, in width they should exceed the width of the log by 6–8 cm. A subfloor will be laid on these ledges. It is much faster and easier to do this than later, in an uncomfortable position and cramped conditions, to fix cranial bars on both sides of the lag. Of course, the thickness of the boards should be taken into account when marking the position of the support posts.

Step 4. Fasten the legs. To do this, you can use metal corners and fix them to the walls of the log house.

Do not forget to make a gap of about 1-2 cm between the walls and the ends of the lag, take metal corners with oblong slots to ensure free longitudinal sliding. Tighten the screws in such a way that the logs can move in the slots. For reliability, it is recommended to attach the logs with dowels through at least one column, the side of the corner fixed to the log must also be movable.

Step 5 Prepare material for the subfloor.

We have already mentioned that in our case all trimmings are suitable, you can partly lay with plywood or OSB, and partly with pieces of boards or unedged materials. It is desirable that the sheets of plywood and OSB are moisture resistant, if there are none, then soak them with drying oil or an antiseptic.

Step 6. Check the distance between the lags. If it is the same, then you can standard length cut off all pieces.

Practical advice. Much faster to work with a template. Cut one board to size, it should fit between the joists with a gap. With this template, walk along the entire length of the lag. The dimensions are correct - use this segment as a template when cutting the rest of the blanks. Remember that measurements should only be taken from the template, and not from cut fresh boards. If each time you use a new segment, then errors accumulate, and they will certainly be, and the last boards may differ significantly from the required dimensions.

Step 7 Lay the boards on the prepared shelves. We have already mentioned that it can be either wide boards nailed at the bottom of the lag, or cranial bars installed later on both sides. Do not try to make the subfloor solid, small gaps do not affect anything. In order to save materials, it is recommended to specifically leave a distance of 5–8 centimeters between individual boards. But this can only be done in cases where pressed mineral wool or foam boards are used as heaters.

Step 8. Steam and waterproofing. If you have extra money and time, then you can install hydro and vapor barrier in any case.

If you do not want to act thoughtlessly, then figure out why such protection is needed. Mineral wool has excellent heat saving performance, does not rot, does not contribute to the reproduction of microorganisms, including fungi. This is great, but it has two very significant drawbacks. The first is with an increase relative humidity thermal conductivity increases sharply. Water conducts heat well, there is no need to talk about any heat-shielding functions. Second, it takes a very long time to dry. This means that all adjacent wooden elements will constantly be in conditions of high humidity. What is the result of such conditions need not be explained.

If you make insulation on the ground floor with mineral wool, then vapor barrier is required. It will not allow the penetration of moisture from the ground into the thermal insulation. If foam-based materials are used as thermal insulation, then such vapor barrier is unnecessary, these materials do not absorb water.

Now about waterproofing. In any case, the draft floor from below does not need to be laid with such materials; there are no “gushing” sources in the underground. But after thermal insulation has been laid on the subfloor, it is imperative to protect it from moisture penetration from the side of the finishing floor. This applies to all types of materials, mineral wool and foam. Waterproofing protects not only them from water, but also subfloor boards and logs.

Insulating layer over mineral wool

Draft floor for "soft" floor coverings

With its help, not only the loads are evenly distributed over the surface, but also the logs are leveled or concrete bases. Such floors are used for laminate, piece parquet and parquet board or linoleum. The materials used are plywood, OSB or fiberboard All materials must be waterproof.

The screed must be even, the difference in height cannot exceed ± 2 mm.

There are two ways to lay the subfloor on the screed: on the slats or directly on the base. The first method is used in cases where the base has significant irregularities, it is required to lay under the floor network engineering or make additional insulation.

Align concrete pavement using rails is much easier and faster than re-screeding using cement-sand mortars. Waterproofing is necessarily placed between the slats and the screed, the slats are leveled in height with various linings, fixed with dowels. The slabs of the subfloor are nailed with nails, the dimensions of the slabs must be adjusted to the distance between the slats. The side faces should be located in the middle of the rail, two plates are fixed on it at the same time. Make sure that four corners do not meet in one place, this position of the sheets can cause swelling of the finish flooring.

The second option for laying the subfloor along the screed is used on even bases that do not require additional insulation. To achieve an ideal surface, the use of building glue is allowed. It is smeared with a comb under the slabs and eliminates even the slightest irregularities, the subfloor becomes a single monolith with a screed. Further, the floor device algorithm depends on the materials used.

The heads of the hardware must be completely recessed; for this, special or home-made finishers are used. If by subfloor it is planned to lay linoleum, then it is recommended to grind the entire surface with an electric machine.

Plywood floor putty

Remember to always leave a gap of 1-2 centimeters between the subfloor and the wall. To prevent bridges from appearing in these places, place pieces of any heat insulators in them.

Video - Subfloor construction

The construction of a private house is a long process required high costs time, labor and finance. Many, in an effort to save money, decide to carry out part of the work on their own. How to make floors in private houses without resorting to the services of builders? Making the floor yourself is quite realistic if you have necessary materials, tools and knowledge.

Which floor design to choose?

Before proceeding with the construction of floors in a private house, it is necessary to determine the type of construction of the future coating. Experts distinguish three types of structures:

• Single;
• Double;
• Concrete floor.

The choice of one or another type of construction depends on the characteristics of the building in which the floor is laid. The determining factor can be recognized as the operating conditions of a private house. The single floor is the most simple design, the construction of such a floor does not take a lot of time and materials, since the floorboards are fastened with nails directly to the logs. The main disadvantage of a single plank floor is its limited use: such a coating would be appropriate only in small summer houses and at cottages. For the house where it is planned year-round living, single design is not suitable.

If you want to do private house, suitable for living at any time of the year, then you will have to deal with the arrangement of a double floor. This type of construction is warmer, reduces heat loss and provides comfortable accommodation in the house during the cold season. The double floor consists of several layers, the main of which are the rough and finish coatings. Between these two layers, hydro- and heat-insulating materials are additionally laid, protecting both the floor itself and the entire house from destruction.

Most often, the rough coating in a private house is collected from unedged board, and the finishing floor is made of grooved floorboards. All work, including the laying of thermal insulation from sawdust or expanded clay, can be easily done with your own hands.

The third possible type of floor construction in a private house is a poured concrete screed. Compliance with all rules of conduct preparatory work, laying waterproofing, pouring cement mortar and the timing of its drying will allow you to get a solid high-quality floor, ready for finishing with any decorative coating.

Installation of wooden floors

When building a private house, many people prefer to make the floor out of wood. Such a desire to have quality underfoot wood flooring due to the desire to use environmentally clean materials to which wood belongs. In addition to high environmental friendliness, such a floor has a number of other advantages.

Wooden floors are easy to install and easy to repair during operation. Due to the low thermal conductivity of the material, such a floor will keep heat inside the house without releasing it outside. Plank floor from quality wood characterized by a long service life and an attractive "natural" appearance.

To make a floor in a private house, you need to choose the right wood. Choice source materials should be based on the design features of the structure itself. Floor device in country house should in without fail provide for the presence of a subfloor that performs the role air gap. If such a layer is absent, then the wooden floor will quickly become unusable due to moisture. In addition, for good sex it is important to have all the layers of the structure, including logs, rough flooring, hydro and thermal insulation, and a finishing coating.

The floor in a private house is subjected to significant mechanical stress, so for its construction it is required to choose wood with good technological characteristics. The boards must be well dried, the recommended moisture content is no more than 12%. Any chips and cracks on the surface of the material are not allowed. Experts recommend giving preference to wood conifers, fit pine, larch, fir, cedar. To increase the life of the future floor, all boards must be treated with an antiseptic and fire retardant.

The installation of a wooden floor begins with the determination of places for the supporting pillars and their installation. fertile layer the soil around the entire perimeter of the house is removed and removed, gravel is poured in its place, and sand is poured on top of it. Layers of gravel and sand must be well compacted. On the ends support pillars fit waterproofing material, most often for these purposes use the usual roofing material.

Next, we make beams that need to be fixed on poles metal corners. Floors in a private house are best done with double insulation. Experts suggest first laying from the sides of the beams plywood sheets, and then place on them mineral wool or other insulating material.

When the insulation layer is ready, you can proceed to the flooring rough coating. The boards of this layer should fit well to each other; ordinary self-tapping screws can be used as their fastening to the beams. It is better to leave some distance between the flooring and the walls of the house: a gap of 1.5 cm can be considered the norm for this part of the floor. These gaps provide ventilation for the entire floor structure and protect the walls from expansion of the floorboards when they dry out.

A layer of vapor barrier made of polyethylene film with a thickness of 200 microns is laid over the subfloor. The joints of individual pieces of film must be glued with adhesive tape, and the edges should be wrapped on the walls to a height of about 20 cm - to the height of the finish coating. When the film is laid and fixed, you can proceed to the assembly of the finished floor.

The finished floor is assembled from solid boards or plywood sheets. Plywood sheets are easier to attach, but in the end they do not look very attractive. So if you want to leave in your home wooden floors, then it is best to immediately collect the finish coating from a grooved board, and if you plan to close it decorative material- it is enough to fix the plywood sheets. After assembling the finished floor, plank floors must be varnished, which will not only protect the material from external influences of a mechanical and chemical nature, but also emphasize decorative qualities natural wood.

Pouring concrete floor

Arrangement of a concrete floor in a private house begins with preparatory work. First, markings and gravel filling are done at the site of the future floor. The soil is preliminarily cleared of plants and the top layer, and then compacted. Next, a layer of gravel is poured, which also needs to be well compacted. In the construction of a concrete floor in a private house, gravel will play the role of thermal insulation. Sand is poured over the gravel. After ramming it, a thick layer is spread on the surface. polyethylene film acting as a waterproofing material.

How to make a concrete floor in a private house? After installing the waterproofing layer, you can start pouring the screed. Cement strainer in a country house it is poured similarly to a screed in an apartment: levels are set and a solution is poured, which is leveled from the wall to the door by the rule.

When pouring a concrete screed, several features should be taken into account. The solution for pouring must be fresh, for its preparation it is recommended to use cement grade not lower than M-300, screening of sand and water. To increase the strength of the concrete layer, you can add to the solution special formulations- plasticizers, which will give the future coating additional strength.

When pouring a screed with a height of 5 cm, you can use reinforcing elements or a reinforcing mesh, which is laid on the waterproofing layer before pouring. In the case of arranging warm water floors in a private house, the use of a reinforcing mesh and the addition of plasticizers to the cement mortar are mandatory procedures.

When the concrete hardens a little after pouring, you can remove the beacons. The voids left after their removal are filled with the same solution. After filling and leveling all the cracks, the floor is covered with polyethylene and left to dry. Drying a concrete floor is a long and responsible undertaking. Concrete must dry itself within a month; if there is a floor heating system, it is forbidden to turn on heating until the screed is completely dry. By including heating elements, you will help the concrete to crack even before the start of the operation of the premises. When drying concrete screed it is recommended to periodically moisten with water and cover again with polyethylene: if this requirement is met, the coating will gain maximum strength and will not crack.

In order to correctly make the cement pour, remove the beacons and dry the concrete, it is recommended to consider photos with the work of builders specializing in arranging floors in private homes.

fine finish

It is quite simple to make only a finishing floor in a private house from scratch, but sometimes laying is additionally required. decorative coating. You can also deal with this problem yourself. How can you cover the floor in a private house?

by the most the best option for a private house, a double floor of planks can be considered. The finish coating of this design can not be coated with anything additionally. This option is practical and beautiful, and also has a long service life when proper care. Before the start of operation, the boards should be treated with protective compounds and varnished, which will protect them from the effects of sand, dirt, water and chemical substances. You can choose to cover clear nail polish, leaving natural color wood, and colored, giving the floor a different shade.

The concrete floor in a private house assumes the presence of a top layer of decorative coating. Parquet or parquet board will look chic as a floor finish. Such a coating is quite expensive, but it is highly environmentally friendly, has good antistatic and thermal insulation characteristics. It does not make sense to make parquet, but in a house where you plan to live permanently, such a coating will look appropriate.

More affordable laminate, linoleum, carpet and ceramic tiles can be considered as analogues of parquet. Laminate is suitable for the living room and bedrooms, ceramic tile It will look appropriate in the kitchen, bathroom and hallway. Linoleum is also best placed only in the kitchen or in the hallway. The use of carpet is more limited: the material is suitable for finishing the floor in bedrooms.

The range of modern colors and textures of the listed materials allows you to choose a coating for every taste. In a private house, floors with natural patterns that repeat the texture of wood or natural stone will look appropriate.