Self-tapping screws or glue. How to tighten the screwed out screw? How to screw a screw onto concrete on a very strong base

How to unscrew and then re-tighten a self-tapping screw.

How to screw a self-tapping screw into various materials: important nuances of a seemingly trifling matter

How to screw in a self-tapping screw - Re-tightening an unscrewed self-tapping screw

Plastic

Not every plastic allows you to screw a self-tapping screw into itself. Make sure you are screwing the self-tapping screw into the correct plastic. Screw the self-tapping screw in the same way as in soft metal, with the exception that the self-tapping screw itself is better to take with wood carvings.

hard metals

The hole for the self-tapping screw should be equal in diameter or slightly larger than the diameter of the pin without thread. In some metals, for example, in cast iron, it is impossible to screw a self-tapping screw.

Wood, chipboard, fiberboard

I still recommend drilling a hole for a self-tapping screw in these materials. Some masters do not always do this. There are times when this is possible. If the self-tapping screw is screwed into a thick softwood board, then drilling is not necessary. Thin boards, chipboard, fiberboard must be drilled, otherwise the self-tapping screw can split the board when screwing. If the wood is hardwood (oak, ash), then drilling is also necessary so that the self-tapping screw can be wrapped at all. For hardwoods, we select the drill diameter equal to the diameter of a self-tapping screw without thread, for fiberboard - 1 - 1.5 mm less, for softwood and chipboard - 2 - 3 mm less. We use self-tapping screws with wood carving.

knot

A self-tapping screw can split a knot. So first we drill a hole with a diameter of 1 mm larger than the diameter of the self-tapping screw without thread. Then carefully screw the self-tapping screw into this hole.

Re-tightening the unscrewed self-tapping screw

It is necessary to re-tighten the unscrewed self-tapping screw exactly as it stood before. It is necessary that he enter at the same angle, into the same groove that the thread made for the first time. Otherwise, the self-tapping screw will make a new groove for itself, which will reduce the reliability of fastening and may lead to the self-tapping screw flying out. To get into an existing groove, insert a self-tapping screw into the hole and turn it by hand without pressure. Once it hits the groove, it will spin very easily. If it goes tight, no effort is needed, but you need to unscrew it and repeat the process. A little effort is needed only at the very end of screwing. It is better to re-tighten the self-tapping screw with a screwdriver, and not with an electric screwdriver, as this is more accurate.

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Types of self-tapping screws

How to tighten screws

The process of screwing in a screw

Fastening parts with self-tapping screws

Screwing a self-tapping screw into different materials

Brick, cement plaster, screed, cement boards, ceramics (tiles)

soft metals. Copper, aluminum, bronze, duralumin, etc.

Plastic

hard metals

Wood, chipboard, fiberboard

Re-tightening the unscrewed self-tapping screw

In the section ‘Life outside the city’

In the section 'With your own hands'

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STARTCOPY CONFERENCE

Switching to the graphical version

any: repairing screw holes

0. Anatoly513.03.13 20:20

Sometimes it happens that the screw in the plastic has gone through. Who decides how to solve this issue?

1. ASSP13.03.13 20:27

Hmm ... If you follow the laws of physics, then, in this case, you must either “add” material to the hole, or increase the diameter (or change the thread pitch) of the screw ...

2. CAT13.03.13 20:46

... there are many options - everyone chooses the one that is more convenient for him.
From observations 😉 - sometimes they bring equipment for repair with a rolled thread in plastic and self-repaired. Options that I have come across:
1 place by repeatability: a piece of a match or a toothpick is thrust into a hole and a screw is screwed along it (in principle, it is logical - a piece of a match reduces the diameter of the hole and the screw does not scroll, holds ..), well, as options - instead of a match, either a piece of foil or a piece of thin plastics (most often there is a piece of plastic clamp).
2nd place: Install a larger diameter/length screw in this hole (depending on whether the space allows for larger screws).
3rd place: Various adhesives or hardening fillers ... ... even met a couple of times that they put a screw on something like superglue. Oddly enough, the screw was still unscrewed with great effort (and even in the hardened glue, the thread remained, so the screw was screwed back normally ..), but in one case, squeezed out by the screw from the hole, the glue got into the gap between the parts to be joined - the screw I unscrewed it, but in order to erode the glued surfaces, I had to work with a chisel. Only miraculously split the plastic.
4th place: People just score ... ... not in the sense of hammering the screw with a hammer, but inserting the screw into the hole and hammering on the fact that it does not hold anything, and it doesn’t even always insert the screw into the hole - it scores on the fact that there is no screw ...

3. Contrabas13.03.13 20:55

And people have come up with epoxy glue and plastic that dissolves easily in acetone. But that doesn't work when you don't have time to piss off.

4. mhz8613.03.13 20:57

I mostly use
CAT(2): 2nd place
On the FC copier, the holes of the table rails were badly broken. I drilled a larger diameter, processed it with a needle file so that the plastic axis (the axis of the mf 6550 stove flag) would fit very tightly, put it on glue and drilled a hole for standard screws ...

Contrabas(3): when there is no time to go out.. CAT(2): People just score

Edited 20:57 03/13/13 mhz86

Self-tapping screws split the bars ....

CAT13.03.13 20:57

Contrabas(3): A plastic that dissolves easily in acetone.- well, yes - put two or three drops of dichloroethane into the hole and insert the screw ...

6. Contrabas13.03.13 21:05

(5) And here it is..
Sometimes they bring this.. Cartridges with construction screws, and instead of pins too.. There are holes that you want to call a hole..

7. ASSP13.03.13 21:51

(6) "When the area of ​​the "hole" begins to exceed the area of ​​the product, then such a product is considered invalid." The saying of my school master on "labor" ...)))

8. Contrabas13.03.13 22:04

(7) It looks like a good master, literate, once you remember ..)) Such shots often come to us that they didn’t have a school foreman in labor, and in physics and much more .. They can’t hammer a nail at home, yes screw the telephone socket .. (

10. Ingmar13.03.13 22:35

when the holes are not just broken, but torn out with a piece of plastic, I use a mixture of soda and cyanoacrylate. The resulting mass is perfectly drilled, processed with a file and tightly sticks to the plastic. the only negative freezes in less than a second.

11. ASSP13.03.13 22:41

(8) Yes, the moderators will forgive me once again - I was generally very lucky with teachers. The same master I mentioned taught me how to work on lathes and milling machines and hold (and use) correctly (and this is much more difficult than any machine tools) a screwdriver, hammer, chisel, etc. The teachers were good in the old days.)))
But I was not lucky with the chemistry teacher. Her surname was (whoever wants - believes, and whoever wants - no) Kaplan ... Probably everyone will guess what the first question I asked her when I "acquainted".)) After which I did not rise above the "triples" in chemistry and "red diploma "covered himself with a no less great" copper basin.)))

12. Andrew14.03.13 00:48

especially for these purposes, there is a jar of dichloroethane with a plastic plug dissolved in it from a computer slot 5.25 to the consistency of thick sour cream. A couple of drops into the hole, and I insert the screw. The next time the cartridge arrives, it twists and turns wonderfully. And in general, I restored a lot of things with this mass, but recently I have become addicted to hot-melt adhesive (although it is not suitable for carving - it sticks to the screw more than to plastic)

Printers, copiers, MFPs, faxes and other office equipment:
repair, maintenance, refueling, selection
Switching to the graphical version

Closing the hole in the cabinet door

Round hinges on the doors of a chipboard cabinet loosen and pop out over time. Since such hinges and elements from this building material have a certain service life, you cannot avoid repairs.

It is not always possible to completely change the sash, so we offer a way to repair a damaged hole. There is only one way out - to make a wooden patch, to which the old hinge is then screwed, and your locker will serve you for quite a long time.

The wooden patch is made from hardwood and is cut in the shape of a dovetail. To do this, remove the old sash and drill a hole of the appropriate shape in it. It is necessary to drill a hole in the sash as large and deep as possible - this way the fastener screws will hold better. This must be done carefully so as not to damage the veneer of the sash. To do this, a wooden plank should be placed at the bottom of the drilled hole, which will prevent the cutter from reaching the outer surface of the sash. The patch must be adjusted with maximum accuracy to the opening of the sash, carefully sanded and painted in the same color as the rest of the surface of the back wall of the sash.

1. At this point, the hinge failed, the chipboard sash panel split, the screw holes were also damaged.

What do you know of ways to easily drive a screw into hard wood?

Saw out a piece of hardwood in the shape of a dovetail and transfer the contours to the surface of the sash.

3.Drill a hole in the sash according to the intended

4. Check if the thickness of the patch matches the depth of the hole.

5. Lubricate the surface of the patch and the walls of the hole with glue.

6. Clamp the patch and wait until it sticks.

7. After drying, drill a hole for the lock loop.

8. Sand the surface so that it is even.

9. Paint over the repaired area, there is no trace of the breakdown.

Tools:

Milling machine, clamp, drilling machine, grinder, brush, screwdriver.

Concrete is often used in the construction of residential buildings and industrial complexes, so when repairing, you have to work with this material. You can fix any object to a concrete wall using special screws - dowels.

It looks like a dowel - a special screw for concrete.

Description of the dowel

Self-tapping screw for concrete consists of a pointed rod and a head with a cross notch. Due to its high strength, it does not deform and does not collapse under heavy load.

Pins are made from brass, carbon steel or stainless steel. These materials are similar in strength and price characteristics. However, carbon steel is most in demand, since self-tapping screws from it are covered with a protective layer that prevents oxidation. Each type of coating has its own color, which informs about the rules of application:

• Silver the layer is made of zinc, this is a universal option.
• yellow protection also means zinc, but its scope is narrowed to interior work.
• The black the color is an oxidized coating. It exhibits maximum protective properties only indoors with a normal level of humidity.

Screws hold various structures in concrete, such as a plastic window profile or a door frame.

How to choose self-tapping screws for concrete

Among a wide variety of fasteners, it is important to choose one that would best suit the operating conditions of the structure to be fixed. The following factors are taken into account:

How to properly prepare a hole

A well-made hole is the basis for reliable fixation of self-tapping screws of any kind in concrete. The following tips will help you get it right:

• Drilling must be strictly at a right angle. Any deviation from the right angle will lead to an increase in the diameter of the hole and subsequent loosening of the fastener.
• The depth of the hole should match the length of the self-tapping screw (and exceed the length of the dowel), so that when screwing it in, it does not rest against a solid dead end, but is freely placed to the full depth.
• After drilling, the hole must be cleaned. The accumulated dirt will not allow the dowel and self-tapping screw to enter the full length.

How to screw a self-tapping screw into concrete

To self-tapping screws for concrete high demands are made. They must withstand heavy loads and provide high fastening strength for a long time. To improve fixation, dowels are used - auxiliary elements that provide a fixed location of the self-tapping screws inside the concrete.

A dowel with a self-tapping screw inside ensures a long and reliable fastening.

A dowel is a plastic or metal sleeve equipped with petals, hooks or spikes. When screwed in, they work for thrust and firmly enter the hole. This aid is used in the following situations:

• The self-tapping screw takes heavy loads, and without such help it will not last.
• The screw must be fixed to porous or cellular concrete, in which fixation without a dowel is unreliable.
• Objects are fixed in structures that are subject to constant vibration.

Types and application of dowels

Screw a self-tapping screw into concrete with a dowel as follows:

1. Prepare a hole in the wall with an electric drill or puncher. Its diameter should coincide with the cross section of the dowel, and its depth should exceed its length by 3-5 mm.
2. Clear the prepared channel.
3. Drive the dowel into the hole with a hammer.
4. Screw the self-tapping screw with a screwdriver or self-tapping screw into the seat.

Experienced craftsmen insert a toothpick into the dowel before screwing in the fastener - it adds strength to the fastener. If the dowel enters the hole with difficulty, do not use even more physical force, otherwise it will be damaged. Instead, you need to pull it out and widen the hole.

It is possible to screw a self-tapping screw into concrete without dowels, but even experienced craftsmen use this method extremely rarely. In this case, the fasteners are installed in the prepared holes. If the concrete is cellular, porous, it is impossible to drill it with a perforator. To facilitate screwing in, it is recommended to drop machine oil into the hole or smear the hole with it.

How to screw a self-tapping screw into concrete without a dowel

Self-tapping screws "Christmas tree"

A special type of fasteners, the threads of which are not communicating. Such screws are not screwed into the hole with a screwdriver, but are driven with a hammer, like nails. Such fasteners are installed once and for all, they cannot be unscrewed. This is their minus, but also a plus: they provide long-term, almost eternal, fixation. Another advantage of the products: ease of placement. A few strong blows are enough, and they are in place. This greatly simplifies installation.

The herringbone carving differs from the standard one in that each of its levels does not communicate with the lower or upper.

Conclusion

When repairing, it is necessary to attach various structures to concrete walls. To do this job without errors and extra effort, it is important to choose the right fasteners and prepare holes for them.

If the technology is followed, the fasteners hold the structure reliably and for a long time.

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There are self-tapping screws for concrete, which, without drilling and other preparatory operations, will securely fasten the cladding materials to the walls. This is convenient: any finishing task is significantly accelerated and facilitated. Although experienced builders are advised not to be too lazy with the preparation of the hole.

What do self-tapping screws for aerated concrete look like?

Self-tapping screws are fasteners that are made in the form of rods with heads. They have a special external thread, with which they are screwed into the surface. That is, self-tapping screws are core screws that have been threaded using a special variable method. This method helps to ensure fixation and good adhesion to concrete structures. Self-tapping screws are shaped like a long rod with a pointed end on one side and a round cross-shaped head on the other.

For concrete structures, special hardware products are needed. Manufacturers have taken this fact into account, and on store shelves you can always see self-tapping screws for aerated concrete and ordinary concrete. To screw in any other hardware, you first need to drill a hole of the required diameter; in concrete structures, this can only be done with the participation of a hammer drill or impact drill. Then dowels are driven in, for example, from plastic, of the appropriate size, and only then can screws be screwed in. This path must be done, otherwise the fasteners will not hold firmly on the surface, but there are also other ways!

Self-tapping screws for concrete - dimensions and other parameters

Since these hardware must be firmly held in such a rigid material as concrete, then they must be made of durable metal. It is important that the material is also moisture resistant. Therefore, they are often made of stainless and carbon steel, or brass. For greater strength, self-tapping screws are covered with protective layers, so they can be of the following types:

• silver color, galvanized, good for all kinds of work;
• yellow, galvanized, suitable for indoor use, quite suitable for outdoor fastenings, serve well as decorative hardware;
• black with an oxidized coating, used only for rooms with a normal level of humidity.

In order to fasten self-tapping screws in different bases, they are specially made with certain thread pitches. Usually, for these hardware, a medium pitch and a variable pitch are used, with notches. The main characteristics that can describe self-tapping screws for concrete: head dimensions, length, thread pitch. We give an approximate classification, according to this list of parameters.

• Self-tapping screws with an average thread pitch and with a universal profile, with their help, you can carry out fastenings of various types. They will have a diameter of 3-6 mm, and they will be from 12 to 220 mm long. This type of screws is the most popular.
• Self-tapping screws are also with an average thread pitch, but with a different profile - herringbone. They need to be used with dowels, they will have a diameter of 3-8 mm, and a length of 12 to 200 mm.
• The third type is self-tapping screws with a variable notch (nagel). Such hardware is used for fastening to concrete walls without dowels, they are 7.5 mm in diameter and 70-200 mm long.

For the latter type of self-tapping screws, holes must be drilled with special drills for concrete, the diameter of which is about 6 mm, and the depth should be 10-15 mm more than the selected fastener length.

How to screw a self-tapping screw into concrete - prepare a hole

Self-tapping screws for working with concrete must not only withstand heavy loads, but also provide a reliable and durable fastening. Therefore, materials and design are chosen taking into account these properties. Before screwing a self-tapping screw into concrete or aerated concrete, you must additionally use dowels. Thanks to these auxiliary elements, a strong and reliable fastening to the supporting bases is ensured. Auxiliary elements are made of nylon, polyethylene and polypropylene.

These elements consist of two parts: cylindrical and spacer. The purpose of the cylindrical part is to correct the fixation in the plaster so that the layer is not destroyed. The spacer part helps to firmly fix the entire structure in the holes. The most basic task of these devices is to ensure that fasteners can be easily screwed in, at the same time they must be securely fixed to the wall. We will tell you right now how to provide additional strength and reliability to the fasteners, so that in the future you can screw in the self-tapping screw on concrete without any problems.

For example, in order to drill holes, you need to use concrete drills, the diameter of which is equal to the diameter of the dowels. All holes must be made 3 or 5 mm longer than the length of the dowel. And it is necessary to select self-tapping screws of the same length as the length of the dowels, or a little more. It is important that the dowels fit into the finished holes easily and without additional effort. To install them in concrete or aerated concrete, you only need to slightly trim with light tapping with a hammer. Self-tapping screws are tightened with both a screwdriver and a screwdriver.

If it is important for you to mount without dowels, then this method exists, but experienced craftsmen use it very rarely. In this case, the screws will need to be screwed directly into the prepared holes. If the surface itself is made of porous materials, then drilling with a perforator is impossible. To facilitate the work associated with screwing, you must use any engine oil. It needs to drip or smear holes. Only this way allows you to screw the screws forever. In the future, it will be impossible to unscrew them.

Self-tapping screws for concrete with a herringbone profile can be driven into the surface with a hammer. This method is also considered "eternal", and it is not possible to unscrew the hardware back. In the prepared holes, together with the dowels, the screws must be driven in with a hammer. The main advantage of this method is speed. In this case, no additional time is needed for the installation and fixing of auxiliary elements.

Choosing self-tapping screws for concrete - what are the criteria?

The main purpose of these hardware is to be in the wall and carry any load at the same time. In order for them to serve for a long time, it is necessary to select them correctly, take into account the main design features and characteristics. Not only the service life, that is, the ability to withstand a certain load for a long time, but also the appearance will depend on their length. Today, you can buy self-tapping screws for concrete from different manufacturers. When buying, you need to pay attention to the thickness, the material from which they are made, and the presence of protective coatings.

It is also possible to choose self-tapping screws that match the color of the design of the room. Often decorative elements are attached to these hardware, and therefore it is possible to purchase them with colored heads.

There are also special fittings for masking on the surface of the heads. Self-tapping screws for working with concrete are particularly durable. The head is often made in a cruciform shape for ease of use. It is important to choose the right screwdriver. Also, this type of hardware is additionally treated with an anti-corrosion layer. If, with a method such as driving in, the screws remain in the wall forever, it is important that the integrity of the metal is not compromised.

How to fasten screws?

If you have to pull one structural element to another with a screw, you should make a screw thread in the first of them. The second will contain the smooth part of the screw, which is located immediately under the cap. The smooth part must necessarily enter the body of the attracted fragment.

Otherwise, you will not get a rigid grip of the planes due to the gap formed between them.

Countersinking is done so that the blind cap does not protrude on the surface of the part or fragment. Sometimes masters neglect countersinks, believing that they can drive a screw into soft material so that its head goes deep into the surface and does not protrude.

Of course, sometimes this is possible, and if desired, you can tighten any screw without making a countersink in advance. However, it is worth remembering that the wood fibers will be damaged by such an impact on them, because they will have to find a “way out” under pressure, and, therefore, the presentation will be lost.

Screw slots can be:

• straight,
• cruciform.

Some models of screws even have special plugs.

They are put on a twisted head, visually hiding it. Models are presented on the head of which there is no slot at all. They have to be tightened with a head or a wrench.

Stages of work on fasteners

Screw manufacturers are not always responsible for their products. There are screws on sale, in the caps of which the screwdriver is not inserted at all, for the reason that the slot is made shallow, or there are burrs in it.

It's better to throw them away. When purchasing good screws, follow some rules to tighten them reliably and efficiently:

• drill a hole in the first part;
• make sure that the diameter of the hole is equal to the diameter of the screw (including its smooth part and thread);
• insert the screw into the hole without force;
• drill a hole in the second part;
• check that its diameter matches the diameter of the screw, but without taking into account the thread, because the screw must enter here with force;
• countersink the hole in the first part.

If the craftsman has a special drill that helps combine the two steps (drilling and countersinking), the process is simplified and accelerated.

Keep in mind that any special drill can only fit specific models of screws.

Countersinking

The screw will only drive into the second part if you approach the process scientifically, i.e. use special drills or do your work in stages. He will pass freely through the first part, and his hat will tightly pull one part to the second.

If a small diameter screw is used, drilling is not required. You just need to apply force and make a hole with an awl.

Working with screws involves a number of subtleties. Sometimes you have to come up with a whole variety of tricks to tighten or unscrew the screw.

For non-standard cases, these tricks have already been invented.

Self-tapping screws for concrete without pre-drilling holes

For example, if you need to unscrew a screw that is desperately “resting”, an adjustable wrench is used. This tool clamps the handle, if it has edges, as well as the upper part of the slot. With one hand, press on the screwdriver, with the other turn the adjustable wrench.

A hammer is also successfully used.

The screwdriver is inserted into the slot, then it is necessary to lightly tap on its handle with a hammer while rotating the screwdriver, just tap, and not knock hard. Screws "with character" are turned out with a heated soldering iron, which is pressed against the cap.

Such "torture" usually helps.

For no apparent reason, difficulties also occur with twisting / unscrewing. It seems that the slot is not defective, and the screw is put in place, and the screwdriver is normal, but the process is not going on. Check if the working part of the screwdriver matches the slot of the screw. If the size does not match, the screwdriver will behave incorrectly, approximately like a foot in the wrong size shoe.

There are cases when the length of the screw is not enough to connect two fragments.

In this case, a hole is drilled in the first of them, first equal to the diameter of the screw without thread, and then a second, blind hole is drilled in it, equal in diameter to the screw head. The screw and cap will partially go deep into the first fragment. The hole can be puttied so that it is not visible.

When tightening the screw with a screwdriver, choose a longer model.

The farther the hand with the screwdriver is from the cap, the less the tilt of the axis will be. If you need to drive a screw into hard wood, be sure to drill a hole, and before screwing, rub it with soap or vegetable oil. To strengthen fasteners, many craftsmen use glue: they dip the screw into it, and only then screw it in. It enters the tree more easily, and then fastens it “tightly”.

Benefits of fiberboard
Marking
Preparing for styling
Base
The nuances of mounting plates
Completion of styling

Fiberboard (more often you can see the abbreviated name, fiberboard) is a frequent guest of construction and finishing stores.

The scope of its use is quite extensive, but often it is used for rough flooring or even as an independent flooring. Its main advantage in this regard is the ability to mount on almost all surfaces, including the previously made coating.

So, how to lay fiberboard on the floor?

Fiberboard boasts the ability to hide various surface defects, such as gaps, cavities or height differences. Today, professionals most often use fiberboard 3 mm thick. When the old base is not too even, then choose sheets twice as thick.

For the lower floors, the rear one should use oil-impregnated fiberboard, as they are more moisture resistant.

Benefits of fiberboard

Among the main advantages of fiberboard, it is necessary to highlight the following:

• environmental friendliness (in the composition of the material only natural wood);
• simple installation;
• a flat surface that helps to get a perfectly flat floor;
• low price;
• increased resistance to mechanical stress;
• due to the peculiarities of production - a dense structure;
• bypasses even a whole tree in antiseptic properties;
• durability;
• strength.

It should be noted that the last two properties are relevant only in the case of proper operation of the coatings.

This also means the creation of an additional layer for protection, which allows you to isolate the material from moisture. For him, the best choice would be water-repellent varnishes and paints, which at the same time will improve the characteristics of the appearance of the coating.

Another useful quality of fiberboard is excellent sound and heat insulation, which allows it to be used as a heater.

This is especially true for the lower floors of buildings, where the slabs are laid on the floor. Most often, the M-20 and PT-100 brands are used for this.

Almost any other coating can be installed on top of fiberboard.

Marking

Today on the market you can find a huge range of fiberboards.

In order not to get lost in their diversity, you should focus on the following markings:

• T - solid slabs, the front surface was not additionally ennobled;
• T-P - the front surface is tinted;
• Т-С - the front surface is made of finely dispersed wood pulp;
• T-SP - the front surface is made of tinted wood pulp and painted;
• M-1 - M-3 - soft plates;
• ST - superhard slabs, the front surface is not ennobled;
• ST-S - the front surface is made of finely dispersed wood pulp.

Preparing for styling

Before proceeding with the direct installation of fiberboards, some initial work should be done.

Chief among them is the adaptation of the plates to the humidity in the room, which should save them from possible swelling. The work itself is quite simple - you need to moisten the surface of the sheets with a roller with warm water. Then fiberboard is assembled in pairs with the back sides to each other. After a day, the fiberboard slab for the floor is ready for laying, you can proceed to further work.

An important point: this procedure is not performed in continuously heated rooms. Instead, the sheets are simply left alone for 48 hours.

One of the areas of application of fiberboard is surface leveling.

In case of small differences, the sheets are laid directly on the base. For large ones, it will be necessary to install a flooring from a log. A level is used to check for evenness.

Base

Often, a wooden floor acts as the base of the floor, which can be seen in numerous photos.

Self-tapping screws for concrete: selection options

In this case, plates with a thickness of about 6 mm are used for laying. Substrate under fiberboard on a wooden floor is not required.

You can also get an almost perfectly flat surface using a screed made of sand and cement, the manufacture of which is carried out with a drawn line. The principle of operation here is quite simple: first, we clean the coating very carefully, and then dry it. Next, a layer of sand up to 50 mm thick should be poured, over which the solution is distributed. After it hardens, bitumen or a primer dissolved in gasoline is applied on top.

The hardening time of such a mixture is about 8 hours, after which the gluing of fiberboard sheets begins.

To do this, the screed is covered with a layer of mastic or glue over the entire surface.

The fiberboard for the floor is processed in the same way. It is worth noting that the mastic dries very quickly, so the process is done with one sheet at a time, and the composition should be applied immediately before laying.

The mastic is leveled with a rubber comb, after which the plate is attached to the floor. It is advisable to press down the laid plate with some kind of load.

The floor will be completely ready in a few days.

Separately, it is worth highlighting the option of laying on logs. With it, it is important to measure the size of the sheets before installation. Further, based on the data obtained, markup is made where exactly the logs and fiberboard sheets will be laid. As the logs themselves, boards or beams are used, dried and treated with an antiseptic, which are attached directly to the floor surface at a distance of no more than 40 cm between them.

Very important: it is impossible to use an undried tree, as this is fraught with rapid decay of the base of the floor and subsequent creaking.

With this approach, you will have to change the coating every couple of years.

To install the lags evenly, chipboard gaskets may be required. If they have been previously installed, their condition should be carefully inspected and, if necessary, repaired or replaced. Before you start laying fiberboard, it will not be superfluous to measure the room again. It is very important that the width of the slabs does not exceed the width of the lag, otherwise the floor may turn out to be uneven.

The nuances of mounting plates

Before you start laying fiberboard boards, you should carefully inspect the floor surface for signs of mold. If any are found, the affected areas should be treated with an antiseptic. Laying fiberboard directly on the old coating is carried out only if it has a whole even surface.

Otherwise, you will need to clean it first.

Between the extreme sheets and the wall, a gap of 5-10 mm should be left, which will become an expansion joint. In order to hide it, a plinth is used afterwards. Fiberboard boards should be joined to each other as much as possible in order to avoid any distortions.

Laying fiberboard starts from the opposite corner from the exit. They are laid out along adjacent walls. The bottom side (rougher) of the plate should be at the top - this will allow for a stronger connection with the mastic.

If fiberboard plans to be attached to glue, it is pre-leveled over the entire surface of the sheet, after which it is allowed to dry a little.

For additional strength of the connection, it will be useful to prime the floor. After fixing, a load is placed on top of the coating surface. It is very important to check the position of the board (both horizontal and vertical) after each gluing and pressing.

If there is a pipeline in the room, care should be taken in advance that a certain gap remains around the circumference of the pipes, which is filled with cement mortar.

If fiberboard is laid on logs, then the sheets should be leveled and laid in such a way that the edges and joints fall exactly in the middle of the bars - such measures are necessary to create the most reliable and durable floor.

Another advantage of this approach is that in the event of a breakdown, you will not have to replace the entire floor at once - it will be enough to get by with damaged sheets. Each subsequent plate is aligned with a slight offset relative to the previous one to ensure the stability of the structure.

It is also extremely contraindicated to place joints in those places that have a large load. Examples include a refrigerator, a cooker, and similar places where people often walk.

So, how to fix fiberboard to a wooden floor: the boards are fastened with nails, screws or self-tapping screws.

If the plate thickness is from 19 mm, then only 50 mm nails are used, which are driven in in 10 cm increments at an angle of 30 degrees. Nail heads should be recessed into the surface - they should not stick out from above. Traces of fasteners are additionally sealed with putty - its color should be matched to the color of the future floor covering.

There are special nails for fixing the plates, which are focused on working with this material.

The method of laying fiberboard on logs allows you to get a warmer floor. Additional insulation is laid in the network cells. In addition, the places where the plates are attached to the logs are completely invisible. In order for them to lie as evenly as possible, you may need to additionally cut them with a knife or jigsaw.

In the case of a particularly complex cutting, you can prepare a cardboard template. Hardboard flooring on a wooden floor is carried out without a primer.

Completion of styling

The final stage of work includes finishing the floor. It consists mainly in the most careful control of the seams. If glue is found, it should be removed with a rag, and the found gaps 2-3 mm wide are treated with putty. The joints are additionally glued with reinforcing tape - this will further increase the strength of the connection.

Many people prefer to prime or sand the subfloor.

This stage of work is not at all necessary, especially if you plan to lay laminate, parquet, carpet, etc. on top. If you plan to paint the floor from the VDP with your own hands, preference should be given to a paint composition with water-repellent properties and alkyd enamels.

Home > Articles > The choice for the use of a self-tapping drill

Selection for the application of the appropriate self-tapping drill

PULL-OUT FORCE, kN

SHEARING FORCE, kN
K, Steel base thickness, kN

Sometimes it becomes necessary to attach the dowel to the wall, but it breaks halfway. Or you don't have the plastic part of the dowel and it's hard to find it at the right time. In cases like this where you need to attach a screw without a dowel, you can use the tricky but effective method you'll read below.

For screws in a brick or concrete wall without a dowel, you need tools.

However, there is nothing rare and hard to find, it is not necessary. It is necessary to pre-install a drill bit, a drill bit (higher quality universal or for concrete), much smaller than a screw or screw to drive in, and even a screwdriver.

First, mark the point where this screw or bolt should be installed.

Then, take the blade, cut it out on the background at the point with the cutting lines. Get back the received back flowers. This must be done so as not to damage the wallpaper. Later, if you need to pull the screw, you can close the space again.

Then you need to drill a thin drill that is slightly thinner than a screw. Drill and smooth drill. Do not allow the hole to be larger than the specified size, otherwise the screw will not be installed correctly.

Insert a match into the hole that is best immersed in PVA glue.

Now you can screw the screwdriver with a screwdriver. Just don't use a screwdriver. Use it nicely at low rpm. The fact is that if a bolt with a screw at high speeds, it enters the wall very quickly and can move several times and thereby destroy the walls of the hole. Accordingly, the corresponding fixation in this case will be.

Now the walls can hang a picture, a piece of furniture in the courses and even some courses.

By the way, this method works best if the walls are strong enough, such as high-quality brick or reinforced concrete slabs. If the wall is easy to cut, it is better to use another method.

Cut off the blade of the background, bend the flowers.

Turboshurupy - or like a screw in concrete

Drill a hole slightly deeper and larger than the diameter of the screw or screw you wish to drive into the wall. Cutting, depending on the size of the hole formed, should not protrude outward.

Before inserting the chip into the drilled hole, immerse it in PVA. Tighten the hole. This method is ideal for fragile walls that are collapsing for some reason. This way you get a wooden covering in the wall that you can breathe everything into and then hang a screw or screw that is really needed.

START-CAPE CONFERENCE

questions about repair, maintenance, refueling, selection

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all: repairing screw holes

0th Anatoliy513.03.13 20:20

Sometimes it happens that the screw in the plastic is defective. Who solves this problem?

the first ASSP23.3.13 20:27

Hmm... If you follow the laws of physics, then in this case you need to "add" material to the hole, or increase the diameter (or change the thread height) of the screw...

second CAT13.03.13 20:46

... There are many options - everyone chooses the one that suits him best.
From observation ;) - Sometimes bring repair equipment with bent threads in a plastic and self-leveling state.

Versions I've seen:
<б>1 placeReproducibility, the part matches or toothpicks are screwed into the hole and the screw (in principle, this is logical - the part corresponds to a decrease in the diameter of the hole and the screw does not rotate while holding ..), including options - instead of matching with any piece of foil or a thin plastic chip (usually edge plastic clips).
<б>2nd place: insert a bolt with a larger diameter/length into this hole (depending on whether larger screws can be used).
<б>3rd place: Various adhesives or fillers…

... even a few times it was found that they put a screw on something like super glue. It is curious that the screw with great effort still makes concessions (and even the frozen glue thread remains, so the screw is screwed back into normal ..), but in one case the screw is squeezed out of the hole, glue in the gap between the connected parts - the screw answered I did it, but I had to work with a chisel to break the glued surfaces.

Only miraculously plastic when split.
<б>4th placeA: People just hammered … … not in the sense of a blown hammer screw and insert the screw into the hole and the result of what he did not have to, if something is not always screwed into the insert hole — results that the screws do not …

third Contrabas13.03.13 20:55

And people came with epoxy glue and plastic that dissolves easily in acetone. But it's not good if there is no time to get rid of..

fourth mhz8613.03.13 20:57

mainly used
<цитировать><б>CAT(2): 2nd
FC copiers were badly broken desk holes.

Large diameter drilled, machined needles that are lifted on a very tight plastic axle (mf 6550 hobs) are mounted on adhesives and holes in ordinary screws...

<цитировать><б>Contrabas(3): when there is no time to burn. <цитировать><б>CAT(2): People just get hammered

Edit: 20:57 mhz86

CAT13.03.13 20:57

<цитировать><б>Contrabas(3): plastic which can be soluble in acetone.- Well, yes - drop two or three drops of dichloroethane into the hole and insert the screw ...

sixth Contrabas13.03.13 21:05

(5) And here you are..
Sometimes they bring it. Cartridges with construction screws, not pins. There are also holes for which you want to name the hole.

seventh ASSP23/03/13 21:51

(6) "When the hole 'hole' of the hole begins to exceed the surface of the product, such product is considered invalid."

My school teacher is at work...)))

eighths Contrabas13.03.13 22:04

(7) a good look at the master, competent, just don't forget ..)) For us, these records often appear, which does not seem to have been their school teacher at work, but in physics and more for what..

A nail can't hit a nail, but a phone jack can be screwed in.. (

tenths Ingmar13.3.13 22:35

when the holes are not exactly broken, but they are removed with plastic foil, I use a mixture of baking soda with cyanoacrylate. The resulting mass is completely drilled, processed by a file and held tightly with plastic. The only negative, frozen in less than one second.

11 ASSP13.03.13 22:41

(8) The moderators forgive me again - I'm very lucky to have teachers at all.

The same craftsman I mentioned taught me how to work on lathes and milling machines and how to properly (and use) correctly (and it's much harder than any machine), screwdriver, hammer, chisel, etc. Good teachers were in old times.)))
But I was dissatisfied with the chemistry teacher. Her last name was (whoever wants - he believes, and whoever wants - no) Kaplan ... Probably everyone will guess that the first question I asked when I "find out".

)) After that, I did not rise above the “troika” in chemistry, and the “red diploma” covered the “copper pool” equally.)))

How to screw a screw onto concrete on a very strong base?

Andrew03-14-2013 00:48

In particular, for this purpose, a glass of dichloroethane with a plastic stopper is dissolved from slot 5.25 of the computer to the consistency of thick sour cream.

The droplet falls into the hole and inserts the screw. The next time the cartridge comes in, it is extremely twisted and twisted.

And in general, this crowd restored many things, but recently became addicted to adhesive glue (although it is not suitable for carving - more than a plastic screw)

Printers, copiers, multifunction devices, fax machines and other office equipment:
questions about repair, maintenance, refueling, selection
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If you have to pull one structural element to another with a screw, you should make a screw thread in the first of them. The second will contain the smooth part of the screw, which is located immediately under the cap. The smooth part must necessarily enter the body of the attracted fragment. Otherwise, you will not get a rigid grip of the planes due to the gap formed between them.

Countersinking is done so that the blind cap does not protrude on the surface of the part or fragment. Sometimes masters neglect countersinks, believing that they can drive a screw into soft material so that its head goes deep into the surface and does not protrude. Of course, sometimes this is possible, and if desired, you can tighten any screw without making a countersink in advance. However, it is worth remembering that the wood fibers will be damaged by such an impact on them, as they will have to find a “way out” under pressure, and, consequently, their presentation will be lost.

Screw slots can be:

• straight,
• cruciform.

Some models of screws even have special plugs. They are put on a twisted head, visually hiding it. Models are presented on the head of which there is no slot at all. They have to be tightened with a head or a wrench.

Stages of work on fasteners

Screw manufacturers are not always responsible for their products. There are screws on sale, in the caps of which the screwdriver is not inserted at all, for the reason that the slot is made shallow, or there are burrs in it. It's better to throw them away. When purchasing good screws, follow some rules to tighten them reliably and efficiently:

• drill a hole in the first part;
• make sure that the diameter of the hole is equal to the diameter of the screw (including its smooth part and thread);
• insert the screw into the hole without force;
• drill a hole in the second part;
• check that its diameter matches the diameter of the screw, but without taking into account the thread, because the screw must enter here with force;
• countersink the hole in the first part.

If the craftsman has a special drill that helps combine the two steps (drilling and countersinking), the process is simplified and accelerated. Keep in mind that any special drill can only fit specific models of screws.

Countersinking

The screw will only drive into the second part if you approach the process scientifically, i.e. use special drills or do your work in stages. He will pass freely through the first part, and his hat will tightly pull one part to the second. If a small diameter screw is used, drilling is not required. You just need to apply force and make a hole with an awl.

Working with screws involves a number of subtleties. Sometimes you have to come up with a whole variety of tricks to tighten or unscrew the screw. For non-standard cases, these tricks have already been invented. For example, if you want to unscrew a screw that desperately "rests", use an adjustable wrench. This tool clamps the handle, if it has edges, as well as the upper part of the slot. With one hand, press on the screwdriver, with the other turn the adjustable wrench.

A hammer is also successfully used. The screwdriver is inserted into the slot, then it is necessary to lightly tap on its handle with a hammer while rotating the screwdriver, just tap, and not knock hard. Screws "with character" are turned out with a heated soldering iron, which is pressed against the cap. Such "torture" usually helps.

For no apparent reason, difficulties also occur with twisting / unscrewing. It seems that the slot is not defective, and the screw is put in place, and the screwdriver is normal, but the process is not going on. Check if the working part of the screwdriver matches the slot of the screw. If the size does not match, the screwdriver will behave incorrectly, approximately like a foot in the wrong size shoe.

There are cases when the length of the screw is not enough to connect two fragments. In this case, a hole is drilled in the first of them, first equal to the diameter of the screw without thread, and then a second, blind hole is drilled in it, equal in diameter to the screw head. The screw and cap will partially go deep into the first fragment. The hole can be puttied so that it is not visible.

When tightening the screw with a screwdriver, choose a longer model. The farther the hand with the screwdriver is from the cap, the less the tilt of the axis will be. If you need to drive a screw into hard wood, be sure to drill a hole, and before screwing, rub it with soap or vegetable oil. To strengthen fasteners, many craftsmen use glue: they dip the screw into it, and only then screw it in. He enters the tree more easily, and then fastens "tightly".

In production, quite often one has to deal with work that requires the fixation of certain parts made of wood. Of course, the most common connection methods are those that do not require pre-drilling. However, not all so simple. If you use long self-tapping screws, their installation does not always go smoothly. Especially when it comes to hardwood, such as oak, beech or even birch. In today's article, we will consider the easiest way to screw in long self-tapping screws without drilling.

Read in the article

Existing ways to do this kind of work

When screwing a long self-tapping screw into wood, the hat often breaks off. The slots on the bit or may also break off. Many will say that it is easier to pre-drill a hole for a screw, but this option is not always available. Often, a drill of the required length and diameter is not at hand. And here the tricks of home masters come to the rescue, helping to cope with a similar problem.

Option #1: Using Engine Oil

This method has the right to exist, but only in part. The fact is that ordinary oil will not solve the problem. The only thing that can help with this approach is grease or lithol. And then, provided that the place of attachment is hidden. The fact is that even if the cap is thoroughly wiped after screwing in, over time, around the self-tapping screw inside, the wood will begin to char, darken, as it were, and the lubricant will begin to seep out. This will cause the paint to swell where the screw is located. When pasting, this place may darken, and the lubricant will come out.

Option number 2: soap to help the master

Nice way to help. You just need to rub the thread with soap or dip in a thick soapy solution. After this procedure, the self-tapping screw will go in much easier. But here, too, there was a problem.

The composition of the soap includes caustic (especially a lot of it in the household), which reacts with alloyed steel, contributing to the development of corrosion. Of course, this process is not fast, but in a few years it will do its job. In any case, if the self-tapping screw is wrapped “dry”, after 2-3 years it can be easily unscrewed, but when installing using soap, this will already be problematic. Therefore, such a method should be used with caution, after thinking carefully.

The best way to screw in a long self-tapping screw

So we got to the main point of today's article. There is a simple and safe way for wood and hardware to screw in long self-tapping screws without drilling. In fact, it can be compared with the previous one, but instead of soap, an ordinary paraffin candle is used here. Of course, these days they are rarely used by anyone, but those who lived under the Soviets, when long power outages were not uncommon, they still lie in pantries. Although, even cake candles are suitable.

Before you start screwing the hardware, its threads are generously rubbed with paraffin. When screwing, under the influence of friction force, the self-tapping screw and the wood are heated, which leads to the melting of paraffin. It melts and impregnates the wood around the screw. As a result, in addition to the fact that it becomes much easier to screw in a self-tapping screw, both wood and hardware threads are protected. Therefore, no matter how much time has passed, it can be easily turned out to replace the board or disassemble the structure.

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