Almost every owner own home dreams of a bath. And even if you are not going to build a bathhouse with your own hands, then you need to at least understand the variety of bathhouse designs and their little secrets.
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Did you know that before building a bathhouse it is important to orient it to the cardinal directions? Usually the door to the bathhouse is located on the south side - in winter the snow melts there earlier and you don’t have to clear it often. But it is better to place the windows in the west - in the evening there will be more light in them, because we usually go to the bathhouse in the evenings.
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Winter wood is used to build a log bathhouse - it is denser and less susceptible to rotting. Don’t rush to start a bath when the log house is ready - it should sit for a year, and only then you can start finishing works.
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At the initial stage of construction, it is necessary to resolve the issue of choosing a location such as a bathhouse. It can be erected as a free-standing structure or attached to a house or other residential building.
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On the other hand, a bathhouse made as a separate building is more fireproof, and a small veranda near the bathhouse can completely replace your garden gazebo.
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Very important point When building a bathhouse, the foundation is laid. The foundation can be strip, columnar or pile. For building a bathhouse with your own hands, the best is considered to be a columnar foundation, which consists of concrete piles set to a depth of about 1.5 meters. Such a foundation is made of stone, brick or concrete.
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To decorate the inside of a bathhouse, it is better to use material made from trees such as poplar, alder or aspen, since they have high moisture resistance and low thermal conductivity. We recommend making the floors also from wood, since it heats up slightly. But wood has a tendency to rot, so it is better to make a collapsible floor and ventilate it and dry it in the sun at least once a year.
The shelves in the bathhouse may not be very good large size. The main thing is that you can sit on them freely or lie comfortably. The size of the steam room should be about 6 square meters. m. - so you don’t need a lot of firewood to warm it up, and it’s not cramped. In a proper Russian bath, the air temperature is about 60 degrees and the humidity is 40%. Compare with Finnish sauna, where the temperature is 90 degrees and humidity is 10%.
To build a sauna with your own hands, an important point is the choice of a stove for heating the steam room. The “lightness” of steam depends on the type of oven. A brick oven takes longer to heat up and needs to sit for about an hour - but the steam is perfect and light. An iron stove heats up quickly and does not pose a risk of burning, but the steam is harsher.
The stove must be installed on a foundation. Under no circumstances should it touch the walls of the bathhouse. Consider the fact that the stove must be positioned so that all rooms of the bathhouse are heated at once. Today, stoves with an extended firebox are very popular. Such stoves allow you to heat in a steam room from the dressing room. A good stove distributes heat evenly throughout the entire bath.
The layout of the bathhouse includes three main rooms: a steam room, a shower room and a relaxation room.
In addition to these premises, the bathhouse may include a small external pool, because a bathhouse is not only steam and heat, but also hardening fresh air. After all, after a steam room, you need to close the pores - and this is best done with cold water from an external reservoir.
If you do not have the opportunity to build a bathhouse from logs, you can choose another construction option from the so-called “wooden bricks”.
In this type of construction, wooden blocks are placed in cement mortar like bricks.
This way you will not only save on building a bathhouse, but also get a more fireproof option.
Such a bathhouse looks quite decent inside, and, in addition, in this way you can easily build a tent bathhouse that is so rare.
The layout of the bathhouse will allow you to carefully consider the required functionality of your bathhouse and more accurately predict your costs and labor costs.
Bathhouse layout 1.
Bathhouse layout 2.
Bathhouse layout 3.
Bathhouse layout 4.
Bathhouse layout 5.
The bathhouse is a difficult place; for a long time, the bathhouse has rightfully been considered a real healer - “In the bathhouse, you will be born again!” But the bathhouse also has its own legends. So in the times of paganism, the Slavs, having heated the baths well and laid out clean clothes there, closed them tightly and left. This was the time when dead ancestors took a steam bath.
During early Christianity, the bathhouse was considered a suspicious place. It was forbidden to hang icons in the bathhouse and to bring bathhouse utensils into the house. After the bath, the person had to douse himself cold water or plunge into the river - to drive away evil spirits. After visiting the bathhouse, it was forbidden to go to church; it was a sin to wash on Orthodox holidays, as well as on Wednesday, Friday and Sunday. Thus, Saturday became the bathing day. The spirit of the bathhouse, the bannik, demanded respect for himself and forbade entering the bathhouse after dark and taking the bathhouse drunk. It was a big offense to rush a person steaming in a bathhouse or to leave a child unattended in the bathhouse - they could be dragged away by the bathhouse spirit.
If you are going to build on your summer cottage bathhouse, we hope that our little tips were useful to you. And the long-standing traditions that we told you about will help you not only enjoy visiting the bathhouse, but also be extremely careful around a hot stove and steam. After all, a do-it-yourself bath is an exciting and useful activity; perhaps you will be interested in getting acquainted with modern options baths in our video:
If you plan to use the sauna only in the summer, its construction will be inexpensive. Such a construction does not require thorough insulation, and it will cope perfectly with heating water for washing. solar heat. You will learn about the construction of such a bathhouse from our material.
Content:
Summer baths are usually built in summer cottages. For seasonal use there is no point in erecting a capital structure. Light frame buildings made of boards, plywood, polycarbonate and other materials cope with their functions quite well. Log houses used as summer option baths do not require insulation except for the steam room.
Features of summer baths
Summer baths can be used both for washing and for taking full bath procedures and are built using frame-panel technology.
In the first case, the heat source is solar energy, which allows you to create a greenhouse effect in the bathhouse and heat the water for washing. This structure does not have a stove, so you won’t be able to take a steam bath with a broom here. The walls and roof of such baths are made of materials that accumulate heat, for example, cellular polycarbonate. Thanks to this, the bathhouse premises maintain a comfortable temperature for carrying out hygiene measures even in cloudy weather.
Another option summer bath- light construction with a metal stove, dressing room, steam room and washing department. It is not much different from a traditional Russian bath, and therefore has a healing effect.
Any materials that are used for the construction of summer baths using frame-panel technology have their advantages and disadvantages. Unlike log baths, frame buildings do not shrink - this is their important advantage. There is no need to wait 1 year to begin finishing work and put the bathhouse into operation.
Another plus - for a wooden bathhouse it is not heavy weight no need for a massive strip foundation. Brick, block or concrete columns can be used as supports here. This will provide significant savings in funds allocated for construction.
With thorough insulation of the summer frame bath it can be used all year round, and its price, including labor costs, will be much less than a similar building made of brick, logs and other massive materials.
Timber and boards used in frame-panel technology for the construction of buildings are useful natural material, but it has certain disadvantages, such as susceptibility to rotting, bug damage, cracking, deformation, etc.
like this summer bath you can build it with your own hands, having one assistant and necessary tools. We will analyze construction technologies using examples of frame buildings assembled from cellular polycarbonate and from boards.
DIY polycarbonate summer bath
The roofing and lining of such a bathhouse allows you to use the energy of the sun to heat water. Since the temperature in the building’s premises depends directly on insolation, its front wall should be oriented towards the south and have no obstacles that shade it. In summer, a roof made of polycarbonate, in addition to storing heat, also provides light.
For construction you will need: edged board 50x100 mm, batten 50x150 mm, logs for the frame, OSB board 9 mm, cellular polycarbonate 6 mm, foam plastic 4 mm, cement, sand and brick for the foundation, screws 3.5x40 mm and washers with spacers for fastening polycarbonate sheets.
The work is done in this order:
- Using a cord and pegs, the building site is marked. Foundation columns are installed at each corner of the sections.
- Each of them is covered with roofing felt waterproofing. Then the foundation is strapped with antiseptic-impregnated timber.
- 2.5 m long posts made of 50x100 mm boards are installed on the harness with a tie-in into the timber. Their verticality is checked building level.
- The rafters are laid in increments of 600 mm. This will prevent the polycarbonate sheets from deforming under any snow load.
- Polycarbonate sheets are cut to size for the roof and screwed to the rafters with self-tapping screws. When installing, be sure to use washers with soft spacers. The material is laid so that the stiffening ribs are perpendicular to the cornice. The ends of the roof are equipped with plugs that protect from dust and moisture.
- The outside of the frame is sheathed with OSB (oriented strand board).
- The walls of the bathhouse are lined with polycarbonate. External side its sheets are the one that has UV protection.
- The internal surfaces of the bath section are sheathed with polycarbonate. The second layer will ensure the opacity of the walls and maintain the privacy of the interior space. There is a hole in the floor for drainage, which is equipped with a regular mesh for washing. The dressing room is lined with OSB board, and the partition between it and the “steam room” can be made of polycarbonate.
- The outside walls are treated with a water-repellent compound, doors are hung and ready-made window units are installed.
Construction of a summer bath from boards
To build baths using frame-panel technology, it is possible to use not only boards, but also plywood, as well as OSB boards. In addition to them, various insulation, vapor and waterproofing materials are included in the multilayer construction of walls, ceilings, floors and roofs.
Let's consider the features of the materials that are used for the construction of a summer bath:
- To make the frame, boards with a cross section of 50x100 mm or more or dried timber are used.
- The external cladding is made of pine or larch boards.
- Internal cladding requires the use of wood with a low thermal conductivity coefficient, such as linden or aspen.
- Vapor barrier materials should not emit odor or odor when heated. harmful substances. Therefore, it is not recommended to use roofing felt and roofing felt in steam rooms. You can choose modern membranes. Foil films are the most effective. They combine vapor barrier and heat-reflecting properties.
- Thermal insulation materials serve to maintain a comfortable temperature in the bath and do not interfere with its air exchange. Most often used basalt wool in the form of rolls or slabs. It does not burn and is not toxic.
- The base piping of the bathhouse is performed, which serves as the basis for its frame. In this case, 150x150 mm timber or 50x100 mm boards are used, laid in 2-3 rows on an edge. Before installation, the material is treated with an antiseptic. When used for tying boards, it is easier to connect them in the corners and make grooves in the structure for attaching vertical frame elements.
- After assembling the lower trim, it is placed on a columnar foundation and leveled in a strictly horizontal position. Between the trim and the top surface of the posts there should be waterproofing roofing felt pads. The corners of the wooden structure must necessarily rest on the foundation pillars.
- After installation, fastening and grooves of the lower trim, the frame posts are placed. The step between them is taken to be 600 mm in accordance with the width of the insulation boards. In the process of this work, it is necessary to determine the location of the door and window openings. First, the posts that frame them and the corner posts are installed, and then all the intermediate ones. vertical elements. Some of them should be planned for placement in places where walls meet internal partitions.
- Temporary fastenings of the racks are carried out by jibs connecting the vertical elements of the frame with the lower trim. Correct installation is checked by level.
- The free ends of the racks are connected top harness, made from 50mm thick boards laid flat.
- All work on the construction of the frame of a summer bath from boards must be carried out carefully, drawing right angles, as well as maintaining the correct levels of its elements vertically and horizontally.
- After assembling the frame, it is carried out external cladding boards. To impart rigidity to the structure, it is carried out in the horizontal direction. The boards do not need to be fastened end to end, as when they dry out, cracks will inevitably appear between them. It is necessary to lay waterproofing under the sheathing.
- The next stage of work is the installation of insulation. It is placed in the space between the racks and does not require fastening if it fits tightly to them.
- Then a vapor barrier film layer is laid on top of the insulation. Thin slats and a stapler are used to secure it. The joint of the canvases is overlapped and taped. Accidental damage to the film should also be repaired. To drain condensate, the lower edge of the film should be placed 10-15 cm below the junction of the floor and the wall to avoid moisture getting on the wooden structural elements.
- The internal lining of the bathhouse is carried out in a vertical direction. Between its back side and the vapor barrier layer it is necessary to leave ventilation gap. For its construction, thin slats packed onto the frame posts can serve.
- The ceiling of a summer bath is made in the same way with the difference that the thickness of the insulation for it is taken to be 2 times greater.
This article describes in detail all the stages according to which the construction of a bathhouse in the country is carried out: video, step by step instructions, requirements for structures and materials. In the text you can find the most common and popular projects, photographs of the best buildings, practical advice on creating a bathhouse on a summer cottage with your own hands: starting with the choice of structure, foundation and roof, ending with finishing the floors and choosing furniture.
Construction of a practical and beautiful bathhouse in the country: photos inside and outside, interesting projects
In order to create comfortable conditions For living or recreation, the owners of summer cottages improve the territory. To do this, flower beds or lawns are laid out in the yard, recreation areas are arranged and small buildings are built, for example, sheds, gazebos, summer kitchens etc. An integral part of comfort is the bathhouse.
The following factors influence the comfort of use:
- material of manufacture;
- interior layout;
- type of steam supply;
- temperature regime;
- air humidity, etc.
Much of this depends on the specifics of the project and compliance with all technology requirements.
Classification of the main types of baths in the country: photos of common projects
The Russian steam room is the most common type of home-made bathhouse in the country; photos of similar structures can be found in large quantities on the Internet. This structure is a room equipped with a stove-stove. During the combustion of fuel, it builds up heat. The Russian steam room is characterized by high air humidity, so to increase the amount of water vapor, it is enough to pour cold water on the hot stones.
Japanese furo baths are made in the form of a large wooden tub. She's filling up hot water and is installed in a room with humid air, the temperature of which reaches 30°C or more. Most often, such bathhouses are built at the dacha with a shower, because it is advisable to wash yourself before visiting.
Finnish baths, called saunas, are very popular. The designs of these structures are no different from Russian steam rooms, the difference lies in the microclimate. IN Finnish baths the air is kept dry. Under such conditions, the human body is able to withstand higher temperatures. Some steam lovers can tolerate heat exceeding 100°C. But this is only possible in Finnish saunas.
Summer residents do not refuse construction either Turkish bath hamam. These structures are operated at lower temperatures. It is recommended to keep the air in the room humid and not raise the temperature above 50-60°C. In such conditions, a person can spend several hours in the steam room without fear of harming his health.
Important! A broom can be used in a steam room only at low temperatures. Otherwise, its use may cause severe burns on the skin.
Projects, photos, features of frame baths. Frame-panel baths. Turnkey baths: prices, where to buy. Step-by-step construction instructions, video.
If you install the sauna so that the sunset rays enter the steam room through the window, this will help relieve stress. In this case, the bathhouse should be located so that the entrance to it is clearly visible from the window of the house. This placement allows you to observe the building itself and the children.
Useful advice! If you design a bathhouse as an extension to the house, you can save on materials and simplify the work. In this case, one of the walls will already be ready, and the structure itself will be more reliable.
During the design process, it is imperative to check the requirements of SNiP 30-02-97. The sixth section contains everything regulatory requirements regarding the construction of a bathhouse, including optimal placement. It is not recommended to place the structure closer than 10 m from wooden objects on the site.
You also need to follow the requirements of the standards for the construction of a bathhouse from the fence of neighbors and other objects located on the territory. From garden house the minimum permissible distance is 3 m. Household buildings should not be located at a distance of less than 1 m from the proposed construction site. If you ignore the instructions regulatory documents, authorities or neighbors may require the structure to be moved to another location, which will entail additional costs of time and money.
Popular types of projects for a small bathhouse for a summer residence
The development of a project for the construction of a bathhouse on a summer cottage is carried out taking into account the technical and operational characteristics of the material that will be used in the work.
The following types of projects are in highest demand among developers:
- frame structures;
- prefabricated baths made of wood;
- buildings made of block material, stone or brick;
- buildings made on the basis of wood concrete.
Having placed your bet on a certain material, you should make sure that it meets the requirements of all safety standards. For example, a sauna should warm up quickly and withstand daily use without problems. If it takes half a day to warm up the room, it is much more practical to use.
Required for small bathhouse Buy the following furnishings for your dacha:
- compact table;
- shops;
- clothes hangers;
- cabinet for storing bath accessories.
Useful advice! It is advisable to plan the bathhouse so that the heater is located in the steam room, and the loading door for firewood opens into the dressing room. In this case, you can save on heating costs.
You can also make it yourself from wood or use an old one, first removing a layer of varnish or paint and hiding all metal parts
A bathhouse can do without plumbing system. But this is associated with certain difficulties, because water will have to be brought manually using buckets, and a tank will have to be installed on the stove. It is also not necessary to have a separate bathroom. You can limit yourself to the amenities of a country house. But in this case, the bathhouse can only be used in summer.
If running water can be abandoned, then without sewerage and electricity, the bathhouse will not be able to fully function. The problem with light is solved by a power line that extends to the construction site.
You can do the sewerage installation yourself or entrust it to professionals by ordering the construction of one of the following objects:
- Cesspool.
- Septic tank.
- Drainage pit.
The following information must be indicated on the project diagram:
- building dimensions;
- dimensions of each individual room;
- the height of the building and all rooms in it;
- installation location of the heat source (furnace);
- type of opening (in which direction);
- placement of window structures;
- location of switches, sockets, lamps and panels.
Elements electrical system must have high level moisture protection (more than IP54). It is recommended to place the window in the steam room at a height of 185-195 cm. It should not be located above the shelf. Optimal height premises – 2 m.
Choosing a foundation for the construction of a mini sauna for a summer residence
The base for the bathhouse is selected taking into account the size of the building and the type of soil at the construction site. Most often, experts give preference to strip and column foundations.
The columnar foundation is easy to implement. Its design consists of support pillars, which are mounted separately. The material for making supports can be brick, reinforced concrete, rubble stone or concrete. The recommended cross-sectional size of the pillar is 60-60 cm. They are installed under the corner parts of the building and walls in increments of 2 m. It is recommended to install a cushion of sand and gravel under the supports.
The columnar foundation should rise 20-30 cm above the soil level. The top is leveled with mortar and covered with several layers of roofing felt. It is recommended to apply the material 2-3 times.
Construction strip foundation costs more than columnar. This is due to the fact that the base structure runs along the entire perimeter of the building. To equip it, a trench is dug, the depth of which is 40-60 cm. sand cushion which should be compacted. It will protect the base from destruction when seasonal soil movement occurs. The foundation walls are formed using concrete pouring. It is allowed to use reinforced concrete or concrete blocks, rubble or red brick.
Pay attention! Bathhouses made of wood do not have much weight, so a shallow foundation will be sufficient for reliability.
How to build a sauna at your dacha with your own hands: technology
Before starting construction, the site should be prepared. To do this, you need to clear the area of unnecessary things: debris, vegetation, stumps and stones. Only after this can you begin marking. If the dacha plot is on a slope, in addition to this, the construction site will have to be leveled.
After this, in accordance with the project, markings are applied to the area. It is not difficult to transfer the outline of the bathhouse; you just need to put marks in the form of fittings or long pegs in the places where the corners are located. The length of two walls is measured from the first mark, after which other elements are installed. When the entire perimeter of the building has been moved, you should check the markings. The corners should be straight. To check this, it is enough to measure the markings along the axes between the pegs. The length parameters must match.
The strip foundation does not require strict adherence to the marking parameters. If the discrepancy in the lengths of the axes is small, the result can be left. For columnar and pile foundations, accuracy in measurements is required, so the longest axis will have to be shortened until the parameters match. Thus, the primary marking is completed.
Applying markings for a small bathhouse at the dacha with your own hands, taking into account the characteristics of the foundation
When the perimeter of the building is transferred to the terrain, further marking is carried out taking into account the characteristics of the selected foundation.
The base in the form of slabs is made extremely rarely, since its cost is very high. This type of foundation is used only in cases where it is not possible to choose something else. The markings are carried out in accordance with the dimensions of the bathhouse according to the project. You can make a foundation wider and longer than the bathhouse, if this is provided for by the project, but not less.
A shallow strip foundation is the most inexpensive and durable foundation option. The marking is done so that the tape filled with concrete passes strictly along the perimeter of the building, as well as under the partitions of the walls. Columnar foundations are mainly used for the construction of wooden structures.
The marking is carried out in accordance with the number of supports, which in turn depends on the size of the building.
A screw foundation has its advantages. Its construction does not take much time, and the installation system is very simple. In addition, there is no need for excavation work, so the site will remain clean. The marking is carried out in accordance with the number of piles. No deviations are allowed.
Useful advice! If the site is on a steep slope, it is recommended to use pile foundation. It allows you to increase the reliability of the building and reduce the likelihood of slipping.
Preparing a strip foundation for a mini-sauna for a summer residence with your own hands
A shallow strip foundation will be acceptable in the following cases:
- The soils on the site are non-flowing and dry.
- Groundwater runs high.
- Winter is not accompanied by severe frosts.
- Selected for construction lightweight material, so the building is not heavy.
After the external markings are completed, you can move on to the internal ones. Minimum width the foundation is 50 cm. The protrusion of the base beyond the bathhouse on each side is 5-10 cm. If the dimensions of the building are 3x4 m, then the maximum marking parameters along the outer edge will be 3.2x4.2 m. This should be taken into account the place where the stove will be placed, because it also needs a foundation.
To make it more convenient to work with markings, it is recommended to install them in the corners wooden structures, resembling small benches. They are aligned on one plane. The height of these structures must correspond to the height of the formwork that will be erected later. A measuring cord is attached to them.
Next you need to remove top layer soil according to the markings and, moving it to the side, dig a trench 50-60 cm deep. In some cases, a depth of 35 cm is allowed if the soil does not freeze too deeply. In this case, it is very important to get to the clay layer. Do not leave the soil bottom of the trench. Subsequently, the clay will be used in further work.
The bottom of the trench must be leveled. To do this, it is better to use a building level. Then a sand cushion is formed, a layer of sand at least 15 cm thick is poured into the trench. It is wetted with water and compacted well. If you don’t have a vibrating rammer at hand, this operation can be done manually by taking a massive block and nailing the handles to it. The next layer is formed from crushed stone with an average fraction size and is compacted in the same way.
Making formwork for building a bathhouse at the dacha with your own hands
At this stage of construction, a formwork structure is made for pouring the strip foundation. The height of the sides is selected so that they upper part touched the cord stretched for marking. Materials for making formwork can be any available materials, for example, old boards or pieces of slate. The structure will be temporary, so it will need to be disassembled after use. Prepared shields are installed along the trench.
Important! The fixation of the formwork must be rigid and reliable, otherwise the heavy concrete mass can move the elements during pouring and deform the entire structure.
Before pouring from the inside, the formwork should be closed. plastic film. This coating will protect the boards from dirt and prevent concrete mortar from leaking through the cracks between the structural elements. To fix the film layer, you can use thin nails or staples installed using a stapler.
There should be a distance of about 5 cm between the edges of the trench and the resulting frame. The formwork is lowered to the bottom. This must be done as carefully as possible so that the protective film does not tear. It is advisable to raise the frame above the pillow. To do this, pieces of granite are placed under the formwork. It is not recommended to use brick for these purposes, as it crumbles under the influence of moisture.
If the project provides for communication systems to run through the foundation part of the building, then holes must be left for these elements. Sleeves are suitable for this. They can also be used to form air ducts.
Pouring the foundation for the construction of a bathhouse in the country
The process of pouring the foundation does not allow significant interruptions in work, so the time allocated for this procedure must be planned so that it can be completed in one day. Otherwise, it will not be possible to make a monolithic tape. The most convenient method of delivering concrete mortar is with a mixer. It can also be used to fill the foundation.
Using a concrete mixer is less convenient. In this case, you will have to prepare the mixture yourself. For this you will need cement grade M400. A solution of cement, sand and crushed stone (gravel) is mixed in the following ratio 1:3:5, respectively.
After pouring, the foundation is compacted using a vibrator. You can use the bayonet method to make the base sag. When this happens, a small amount of concrete should be added to level the area. If the foundation is being formed for a wooden building, while the mortar has not hardened, the foundation bolts should be fixed in it. The formwork structure can be removed no earlier than a week after pouring.
Pay attention! One week is not enough for concrete to gain strength. Therefore, all work must be done carefully. In order not to take risks, it is recommended to begin construction of the bathhouse 28 days after pouring the foundation.
How to build a bathhouse with your own hands at the dacha: laying walls
If you are building a bathhouse based on brick, stone or block material, you should level the foundation level using cement-sand mortar. After this, a double layer of roofing material is laid.
Laying should begin from the corner areas. When the first blocks are installed on cement-sand mortar, their placement is checked. The elements must be located in the same plane. Then you need to pull the string along the top edge. This will be used as a guide for the entire row.
For laying the second row, a different mixture can be used. It depends on the material. If the walls are built on the basis of shell rock or brick, the cement-sand mortar can be left. For lightweight blocks, it is better to use mixtures recommended by the manufacturer.
Above the windows and door structures jumpers are installed. Here the formwork is installed and the armored belt is formed. Foundation bolts are fixed in it, helping to fix the Mauerlat. When the concrete has completely hardened, you can proceed to creating the roof.
Construction of a frame for a small bathhouse in the country
To build a frame-type bathhouse, a base of wood is constructed. She is sheathed finishing material. Due to this, the wall of the building is formed. To work, you need to take high-quality materials and strictly follow the technology for their installation.
A frame structure without bottom trim is formed on the foundation. A beam with a cross-section of 10×10 cm is suitable for this. Cuts should be made on the end parts of the material to approximately half the thickness. This will allow you to fasten the elements to each other using self-tapping screws. If bars measuring 5x10 cm are taken for construction, then the frame part is assembled using the joining method. Metal corners should be used to fasten the elements.
The sequence of further assembly of the frame:
- Installation of end trim board.
- Fastening the floor joists flush to the board.
- Trimming the joists on the other side to install a second end board for strapping.
- Laying insulation between joists.
- Nailing of trim boards.
- Assembling the frame and installing the parts in the designated places.
- Connecting all elements into one structure.
Useful advice! To obtain a frame with low thermal conductivity, it is better to use boards made from aspen, well-dried larch or linden. In this case, the structure will be resistant to deformation loads.
To prevent liquid accumulation inside the frame, it is recommended to use vapor barrier film. To insulate the structure, fiberglass and mineral wool are suitable, which will provide air access. This procedure should be done after the roof has been constructed, as the material may become wet in the rain.
How to properly build a roof and install floors for a bathhouse in a country house
At this stage of building a frame bath, all that remains is to install the floorboards and build a rafter system.
Projects of other buildings require more complex design, which is carried out in the following order:
- Installation of logs.
- Organization of the subfloor.
- Fixation of the vapor barrier layer.
- Laying insulation.
- Installation of waterproofing material.
- Laying floor boards.
These boards need regular replacement, which is done every few years. Taking into account the fact that for drying country bathhouse It takes a lot of time, it is recommended to make floors not from boards, but from concrete or tiling. Wood panels can be laid on top of it, which after use can easily be taken out into the building, where they can dry while the owners are away. IN frame structures, which are mounted on top of a pile or columnar foundation, only wooden floors with insulation are acceptable.
You should also think about hydro- and thermal insulation, otherwise steam will freely enter the attic, accelerating destruction wooden beams and rafter system.
The choice of roof depends on technical features building and the type of area where it stands. If the site is surrounded by tall trees, you can safely build a high gable roof. For steppe zones, where buildings are subject to severe wind loads, it is better to make roofs with a minimum slope.
For small buildings, a pitched roof is suitable, but provided that the snow loads in winter are insignificant. This type of construction is often used in projects where a bathhouse is attached to a residential building.
Organization of ventilation according to the general designs of a bathhouse in the country
During operation of the steam room, the air in it must be renewed twice or even three times within an hour. Most often, the inlet is located in the lower part of the boiler, and the hood is located with opposite side under the ceiling. If ventilation is not performed correctly, air flow will move slowly. There are other options when this process is completely uncontrolled and the heat quickly leaves the premises. In this case, your feet will freeze, and the ceiling will be unbearably hot.
Pay attention! It is necessary to close the exhaust window while the steam room is warming up. Otherwise, it will take too much time.
To hold warm air Two holes should be made near the ceiling. Each of them will perform a specific function. The bottom hole is designed to maintain comfortable indoor conditions. The already cooling air will escape through it. The top opening should be opened when there is a need for ventilation.
Not only the steam room needs it, but also the rest of the bathhouse rooms. To prevent heat loss when this is not necessary, it is advisable to equip the openings with dampers that will open only during ventilation.
Carrying out cladding according to the design of a bathhouse for a summer residence
Regardless of whether the bathhouse is made of brick or wood, surface finishing is carried out according to the same technology. First you need to make a sheathing and fix it to the wall. Wooden slats are suitable for this. After this, the structure is sheathed with clapboard. All rooms except the steam room are finished in a similar manner. Here you need to lay heat-reflecting material in the form of foil under the sheathing.
Exterior decoration performs not only a decorative, but also a protective function. As cladding you can use a block house, imitation timber, lining, siding and facade tiles. Also suitable finish in the form of paint.
At this point, the construction of the bathhouse is completed. All that remains is to install the appropriate heating equipment and furniture. You can make some of the furnishings yourself. If you don’t want to make furniture with your own hands, the stores have a wide selection of special furniture. As a budget alternative, you can use old interior items, which, after a little restoration, can last for a long time. But you should not use products made from chipboard, because they are very quickly subject to destruction under the influence of moisture.
Construction of a bathhouse at the dacha: video instructions
Many owners of land plots prefer to have on their suburban areas your bathhouse. The dimensions and internal layout of the bathhouse are a purely individual matter, especially since on several hundred square meters, when every square meter is precious, it is unlikely that anyone will erect a massive structure.
If you mean inexpensively, and even with your own hands, then the choice of options for building a bathhouse is not so large. Which bathhouse is more appropriate to build at the dacha, what to take into account and provide for - this is discussed in the article.
When it comes to erecting any building on a summer cottage, various instructions, recommendations and advice most often overlook a very important issue - the specifics of the operation of the facility. In other words, is the dacha a place of permanent (year-round) residence, or do the owners come to the site only during the season? In the first case, we should talk about full country house. Both it and all other buildings (including the bathhouse) must be built completely. Expensive or cheap is another question.
Firstly, it’s hardly worth counting on being able to come to the dacha to take a steam bath in winter. Main reason– skidding on the roads. If you can still drive up to the massif itself, then get along the alleys to own dacha quite problematic.
Secondly, it is necessary to take into account how long it will take to heat the bathhouse. For the majority of summer residents, it is needed on the site only when the owners work or relax on it. And going out of town for the whole day just to take a steam bath for an hour is a dubious pleasure.
Thirdly, the idea of building a bathhouse comes, as a rule, 2–3 years after the development of the site, when everything has already been planned and arranged, including the plantings. Or if the purchased dacha does not have it. It’s unlikely that anyone will want to launch large-scale construction on inhabited territory.
Therefore, before you figure out “how to build” and “inexpensively”, you should find out what materials and technologies can be considered optimal for a summer bath in the country. This information will be much more useful than “step-by-step instructions”, especially since it is not a fact that this is the option the reader will choose.
Wood
A log or beam (in any modification) is the best solution. The cost of materials cannot be called high, there is no need for a “heavy” foundation, and in terms of “environmental cleanliness” and the effectiveness of procedures, there are no complaints. But there is one “but”.
A bathhouse (at a dacha or other place) is a specific structure. One of the main requirements for it is maximum thermal insulation. Building a high-quality log house with your own hands, no matter what the various instructions say, is quite a complicated matter. How to make joints between workpieces “in a paw”, “in a clap” or in another way is simple and understandable only on paper. But in practice, rarely anyone can build a good bathhouse from logs or timber themselves. Here, only the materials are cheap, but the services of a professional are expensive.
Cellular concrete
Such construction is considered budget-friendly. But is it really that simple? Gas silicate intensively absorbs moisture. The stone itself is inexpensive, but finishing the bath (primarily waterproofing) will not be cheap. It's about the same with foam concrete. In addition, the blocks are “set” on the mortar, so you will need a concrete mixer with all the accompanying “delights” - heaps of sand, crushed stone, bags of cement and dirt in the countryside.
Is it worth organizing full-scale construction if most garden plots Are there only small light houses? In any case, it is also quite difficult to call such a bathhouse cheap if we are talking about the summer version.
A brick bathhouse should not be considered - this definitely cannot be done either “with your own hands” (a complex matter that requires professionalism) or “inexpensively”. The most acceptable solution for a dacha is a bathhouse built according to frame technology. Let’s look at the features of its construction.
Frame bathhouse in the country
Dimensions
Considering that there is not too much at the dacha free space, you will have to be content with a small building. There is another reason that limits the size of the bathhouse. By definition, it is a fire hazardous object, therefore it is built away from residential buildings (as its own country house, and neighbors), as well as fences and roads - at least 15 m. But this is in theory. In practice, you just need to clarify what restrictions apply to your dacha area. Perhaps local conditions are more “mild”.
But we definitely can’t talk about a massive structure with several rooms. For the dacha optimal sizes the baths will be 3.5 x 3.5 or 3 x 4 m. Quite enough to divide the building into 3 rooms (dressing room, steam room and washing room), and it will be really inexpensive.
Foundation
For a small bathhouse in a country house, the best solution is a pile-grillage foundation. Firstly, you can install screw supports yourself. You only need one assistant to ensure that the pile does not go sideways during installation. Secondly, such supports are easy to expand with additional “knees”. Consequently, groundwater and freezing depth are not the determining criteria when choosing the type of foundation. The pile foundation is suitable for almost any terrain. The main thing is to correctly calculate the installation depth of the supports. Thirdly, there is no need for any earthworks, which is important for a developed summer cottage.
There are others inexpensive options- installation of a bathhouse on sleepers, stones and the like - but this is unlikely good decision. The possibility of soil heaving cannot be discounted, so such a bathhouse will have to be constantly reconstructed.
Is it possible to do without a grillage?
In relation to the bathhouse - no. And here's why. If the wind is blowing under the building, then the floors will be constantly cold. This means that it is necessary to think about their maximum insulation, and this will lead to higher construction costs.
Frame
Since we are talking about a small-sized bathhouse, it is not difficult to assemble the “skeleton” by installing timber in the corners. The best option is to make the strapping, sheathing and carry out all other finishing activities with your own hands without any difficulty.
Main stages of bathhouse construction
Marking the territory and laying the foundation
What to consider:
- Piles are screwed into the ground at the corners, as well as at the points where the internal walls adjoin the external ones. Depending on their length, additional supports are placed at intervals of approximately 2 m. If the soil is soft, pipes can be driven in and poured into them for strength concrete mortar. All that remains is to align them on top in horizontal plane and weld the heads.
- The root system of most weeds develops at a depth of up to 150 mm. Therefore, you will have to excavate the soil in the outlined rectangle (square) to prevent the germination of weeds under the bathhouse. The thickness of the layer is about 30 cm. Why, it will become clear later.
- To prevent the appearance groundwater in this area, the soil should be compacted and rich clay should be poured, which is also compacted. The result will be a primary layer of waterproofing.
- Next is a thickened P/E film (the cheapest insulating material).
- On top there is a backfill of expanded clay (10 cm is enough). He will provide additional insulation“bottom” of the bathhouse, so the influence of the cold coming from the ground will be practically neutralized.
- Experienced builders recommend doing and cement screed. But this is already taking into account that it is not a residential building that is being erected, but a bathhouse - at the discretion of the owner.
Assembling the bath frame
Its elements need to be attached to something. Therefore, the piles are first tied. For the support frame, it is better to purchase used sleepers. This is already prepared (impregnated) material that can be bought either at the railway or at specialized enterprise, from the so-called substandard.
Another option is to purchase timber. The blanks have the correct geometry, it is not difficult to fasten them together with your own hands (staples, plates, corners). All that remains is to impregnate it with special agents (antiseptic + fire retardant) and dry it. In practice, it is enough to treat it with machine oil (used), in some cases, and coat it with liquid tar.
Installing vertical posts from the same timber is also not a problem. The strapping is done with slats.
Sheathing of the structure
The most inexpensive options are boards or multilayer plywood (FC or FSF). Such sheets are cheap, and given the fact that they are characterized by high moisture resistance, they are quite suitable for a bathhouse.
Everything else concerns already interior design. Here everyone has their own decision.
- For a country bath best option roofs are flat (single-pitched). It hardly makes sense to build a rafter system if any site already has a utility room for storage gardening tools. Flat roof- This is the most inexpensive option.
- For a country bath, it is advisable to choose a small heater. This one (to the question of “inexpensive”). And there will be no problems with fuel.
- When choosing timber, you should focus on larch. Considering the specific structure, especially excess moisture, it is better suited than other breeds. When wet, this tree only gains strength, which is required from the point of view of the durability of the structure.
- It is quite difficult to insulate a frame bathhouse, since there will definitely be gaps. Therefore, since all the finishing is done with your own hands, it is advisable to focus on insulation with a reflective surface. For example, Penofol (also inexpensive). Taking into account the small dimensions of a country bath, a thickness of 10 - 12 mm is quite sufficient. Please note - the material is laid with foil inside the room!
Perhaps the information provided is enough to understand which bathhouse option for a summer residence is better.
Many specialized companies as inexpensive sauna For the dacha, ready-made house structures are positioned, which are delivered to the site and installed on a pre-prepared foundation. The starting price is about 105,000 rubles (2.5 x 4). It seems inexpensive. But this does not take into account several points.
Firstly, will heavy equipment be able to drive through country lanes?
Secondly, will the reach of the crane boom be sufficient to install a bathhouse in the location chosen for it?
Thirdly, such houses have only a rough finish. Consequently, issues of insulation, purchase and installation of a stove, laying communications and a number of others will have to be resolved separately. And these are additional costs.
Therefore, this option is unlikely to fall into the “inexpensive” category. It’s easier to build in the country frame house under the bathhouse with your own hands.
Washing in a country bathhouse is a pleasure available to everyone. Its construction does not require large financial investments. IN minimal layout such a structure is erected in a few days.
In this article we will look at the topic of how to build the simplest bathhouse in your country house quickly and inexpensively.
Let's start by studying ready-made options, we will discuss the designs of walls, floors, stoves and sewers that are popular among craftsmen.
Design Features
The main conditions for the comfort of any bath are:
- Walls, floor and ceiling well protected from heat loss.
- Reliable insulation of structures from water and steam.
- Compact, quick heating oven.
- Effective sewerage and ventilation.
Examples of country baths
In photo No. 1 we see a simple bathhouse, reminiscent of Diogenes’ barrel. You can only take a steam bath in it. You won't be able to wash yourself here because there is no sewage system in the building. However, if desired, it is not difficult to do. To do this, you need to install a standard shower tray in the corner of the bathhouse and lead the drain pipe into the septic tank.
Photo No. 1 Build such a “barrel sauna” at your dacha and steam to your heart’s content
An important advantage of this design is its low weight, allowing it to be placed on a plank terrace.
The construction of the simplest bathhouse from the container category is shown in photo No. 2.
Photo No. 2 Option for a container country bath
It consists of one steam room. For washing, the owner needs to attach a canopy with summer shower or supplement the room with sewerage, and the stove with a tank for heating water.
Improvising on the theme of a barrel-shaped bath, let's turn our attention to cellular polycarbonate. It can be quickly and easily assembled original design. In order for it to retain heat well, you will need two large sheets of this material and a frame made of metal or wooden blocks. A mineral wool insulation 10 cm thick is laid between them.
The ends of the building can be made from boards, stuffed onto an insulated wooden frame. Place such a bathhouse anywhere: at your dacha, on a polar ice floe or on the top of Everest and you will always be comfortable in its steam room (photo No. 5).
Photo No. 5 Simple barrel-shaped bathhouse
A small Russian bathhouse, made from scraps of timber, can be installed on oak posts. We see an example of such a structure in photograph No. 6.
Photo No. 6 Oak posts are an excellent support for a small wooden bathhouse
Larger structures require their own foundation. There are three possible options here:
- Rubble concrete tape.
- Brick columns.
- Piles made of asbestos-cement pipes.
Do not forget that the type of foundation affects the choice of material and wall design. Pile and columnar bases used for installation wooden frame, as well as for baths made of timber or logs (photos No. 7 and No. 8).
Photo No. 7 Bathhouse made of SIP panels on screw piles
Photo No. 8 Brick columns - the best option for timber, log and frame structures
The “tape” of rubble concrete is suitable for any walls (made of gas silicate blocks, logs and frames).
A cheap, reliable and simple version of a bathhouse is obtained using technology. For such a structure you will need little: a truck of firewood, a cart of straw and a dump truck of clay (photo No. 10).
The best shape for a wood burning structure is round. It eliminates the need to reinforce masonry corners and looks aesthetically pleasing and original.
Borrowing from birds the technology of building nests from branches and clay, you can build such a simple and warm bath(photo no. 11).
Photo No. 11 Wicker frame coated with clay - “know-how” of an inexpensive bathhouse design
Recommendations for choosing finishing, insulation, sewerage, flooring, roofing and stove
For exterior finishing For a frame bath, we can recommend the following materials:
- Wooden blockhouse.
- Metal tiles or corrugated sheets.
- Plastic siding.
- Cement particle board (CSB).
- OSB board.
- Flat slate.
Photo No. 12 A simple, but at the same time very nice option for exterior finishing of a bathhouse using unedged boards
It is best to use ecowool as insulation. It does not accumulate moisture, does not rot and does not burn. If ecowool is not available in your region, then you can buy regular mineral insulation in the form of a semi-rigid slab. It is easily and simply placed in the spaces between the frame posts.
To protect mineral wool from water vapor and reduce heat loss, the walls are lined with sheets of foil polyethylene. After this, a frame of slats is attached to them and trimmed with wood: alder, linden or pine clapboard (photo No. 13).
Photo No. 13 Steam and heat insulation of the walls of a country bathhouse built from any material
We do not recommend installing OSB board indoors. This material releases toxic gases when exposed to high temperatures.
Options for steam and thermal insulation of walls of a frame structure, as well as a bathhouse built from blocks or logs, are presented in Figure No. 1.
Building a simple bathhouse with your own hands includes sewerage. It can be made from standard plastic pipes, derived in cesspool or drainage well.
The water intake funnel is placed in the center or in the corner of the room, and the floor is made in the form of expanded clay concrete screed with a slope towards the drain. Before concreting, you need to compact the soil and cover it with several layers of waterproofing. Wooden floor – great option, but in the bathhouse it quickly rots and requires replacement. Instead, we recommend making gratings from wooden slats and laying them on concrete screed. After washing, they can be removed, taken outside and dried.
Constructive bath ceiling standard First, a vapor barrier film is “attached” to the rafters and counter-battens (3x4 cm) are stuffed. A clapboard cladding is attached to them. The gaps between the rafters are filled with insulation and covered with under-roofing film. It protects it from weathering and atmospheric moisture (Fig. No. 2).
Fig No. 2 Ceiling structure of a country bathhouse
A counter-lattice is stuffed onto the film, creating a ventilated gap between the roof and the insulation. The work on installing the ceiling and roof is completed by installing the main sheathing and laying the roofing material (slate or metal tiles).
The main “detail” of any country bathhouse is the stove. It should provide rapid heating of the air and maintain high temperature. A metal stove heats up the fastest.
To accumulate heat and create steam, it must be equipped with a compartment for stones. There are many options for stoves for simple baths, so we will not dwell on them in detail. Let's just say that the easiest way to make a heat generator is from steel pipe large diameter, old gas cylinder or barrel (photo No. 15). Another easy-to-use material is steel sheet 3-5 mm thick (photo No. 16).
Photo No. 15-16 A simple stove made of a pipe and a stove made of ferrous metal
Having mastered the simplest welding techniques, you can outside help you can assemble such a structure.