Options for making fences with your own hands. How to build a fence from a profiled sheet with your own hands: preparation steps and a video example of self-construction of a fence from a profiled sheet. Original designs in the photo: decorating a summer house or a private house

If it's time to change the fence of the site, or if there is a need to fence a new territory, then the question immediately arises of how to install a fence with your own hands, without resorting to various construction firms. This is especially true if the owner of the site is limited in funds.

Will it be possible to carry out this process on your own? It all depends on the type of fence and the material from which it is planned to build it. But it’s clear right away - in order to build a fence of a site made of brick, concrete or concrete slabs, it is necessary to do quite labor-intensive work, so at least one assistant will be needed.

What should be taken into account?

Knowing all the advantages and disadvantages various types fences, it will be possible to evaluate your strength and decide what material to build a fence from.

When choosing the type of fence, you must definitely consider how the color and texture of the fence will fit into the design of its entire site, if it is decorated in the same style.

Another criterion to consider is the openness and closeness of the fence, i.e. it will be solid or have a through pattern.

If there is a desire to isolate oneself from the outside world so that outsiders, including neighbors, do not interfere with rest or work on the site, then it is better to install a solid fence.

The area open to the eyes of passers-by is suitable for those owners who want to show everyone what a beautiful house or wonderful flower beds they have, as well as sociable people who cannot imagine their life in a space completely enclosed by a fence.

If the fence is being installed on a new site, and it is planned to build it from or concrete, then it would be nice to check how deep the groundwater runs underground. Otherwise, there is a risk, after a couple of years, to get subsidence and skew of the structure.

Another important point is the cost of materials. It must be calculated by knowing the prices in advance, deducing the total amount, another 15% is usually added to it. This is because, as a rule, it is impossible to foresee everything perfectly, and in the process of work, you will definitely have to buy any missing components.

So, first you need to familiarize yourself with the types of fences and the rules for their installation.

concrete fence

A concrete fence can be safely called the most practical and reliable building of all other types, but only if it is properly installed.

A concrete fence is not only “boring” gray walls

Such a fence has several types, since thanks to modern technologies and developments, fences have been produced and installed in recent years, which in themselves are already decorative elements that adorn the territory of the site.

A variety of types, colors and textured patterns allows you to choose an option that will be perfectly combined in style with the already erected structure of the house.

There are a lot of positive qualities of reinforced concrete fences, so they are increasingly preferred to other fences. These benefits include:

• The durability and strength of the material in a properly installed design.
• Any finishing material, whether it be decorative plaster or decorative tiles, fits perfectly on a flat concrete surface.
• If a monolithic fence is being erected, then it can be raised to any height without gaps and joints.
• If a fence is chosen, consisting of separate narrow slabs, then its installation is carried out quite quickly - literally in one day the entire structure can be erected.
• Concrete construction is the most economical of all other capital fences.

There are, however, such fences, along with positive, and negative points:

Concrete structures are quite heavy, so they cannot be installed on loose or loose soils, or they will require special reinforcement during installation.

Installing a concrete fence is much more expensive than lumber or corrugated fences.

When installing a fence consisting of separate sections, it is often impossible to do without special equipment for lifting and installing them, the call of which is also expensive.

If a monolithic concrete fence is being arranged, then a concrete mixer will definitely be required, since a very large amount of mortar will be required, which is simply unrealistic to make by hand.

For all, without exception, concrete fences, you need a reliable foundation.

From all of the above, we can conclude that the construction of a concrete fence is a rather troublesome and expensive undertaking, but such a structure will last for many decades without special care, so this choice can be considered very practical.

Foundation for concrete fence

Since without a foundation for concrete structure can not do, you need to know what work will have to be done to arrange it.

A concrete fence is installed on, which is poured into next sequence:

• The first step is to mark the territory for further digging of the trench.

When marking, it is taken into account that the width of the foundation tape should be 100 ÷ 150 mm more than the thickness of the fence. The depth of the trench to be torn off should be 800 ÷ 1000 mm.

• Further, moistened sand is poured to the bottom of the trench, which must be carefully compacted. The layer of sand cushion should be 120 ÷ 150 mm in compacted form.
• A plastic film is covered on the sand, which will serve as protection for the foundation from the effects of ground moisture. The film should come out of the trench by 500 ÷ 700 mm, since further formwork will be erected along the pit to raise the foundation above the soil surface by 200 ÷ 400 mm.
• A layer of gravel is poured onto the film - 100 ÷ 150 mm is enough.

• A reinforcing structure is installed on the gravel, which will add strength to the foundation.
• After marking the distance between the fence posts, pipes or a reinforcing truss are welded to the reinforcement - this will serve as a support for the further construction of the pillars.

• Next, a wooden formwork is placed along the trench. Polyethylene film is left inside it and later brought out over the edges of the top boards. The film will not allow concrete to leak into the gaps between the boards, and thus the moisture will not evaporate too quickly, and the concrete mortar will evenly gain the desired strength.

• The trench is then filled with concrete mortar made from gravel-sand mixture and cement, from a ratio of 3:1.
• If the fence encloses a large area, then concrete is best ordered ready-made, since it is quite difficult to knead such a large amount of mortar on your own, given that the foundation must be poured at once, completely from the bottom to the top of the formwork. Otherwise, unnecessary gaps may remain between the layers, and if water gets into them and if the temperature drops, the foundation may be damaged.
• The surface of the poured concrete is leveled and left to harden and harden.
• Typically, intersection posts are laid out of brick, but they can also be made of concrete. To do this, around the reinforcing structure or pipe, an appropriate formwork is built from boards, which is also filled with concrete.
• If the fence sections will consist of several prefabricated elements, then special ones are used for their installation, having side grooves, into which decorative plates are then inserted.

It should be noted that if this fence option is chosen, then you can arrange for it and, carefully marking the distance between the posts. Nevertheless, after their installation, the poles must be tied together with a curb. Its filling is carried out in the same way as with a strip foundation, it is also reinforced with reinforcement, but it is deepened by only 200 ÷ 250 mm.

Varieties of concrete fences

On the finished foundation, you can install various types of concrete fences. So, concrete fences are divided into monolithic, block, prefabricated and typesetting types, as well as independent.

Stacked fences

Type-setting fences consist of several sections, which are installed in turn in the grooves of the posts already set vertically. Typically, fences of this type have several sections, the upper of which differs from the lower ones in that they are decorated with decorative elements in the form of balusters or relief patterns.

Decorative stacked concrete fence with an "openwork" top section

Such fences are installed on strip foundations, which will raise them above the soil by desired height, or on a columnar foundation with curbs installed between the pillars.

prefabricated fence

A prefabricated fence consists of individual elements, from which sections of the same shape are assembled. The number of elements in each section can be different, usually from three to five - it depends on what height of the fence is needed. Sometimes they get sections of different colors or with different relief patterns - this to some extent helps to make the fences more picturesque and less boring.

The foundation for a prefabricated fence can be either tape or columnar.

block fences

This type of fence is laid out from concrete (foam concrete or aerated concrete) blocks, which are in the form of large bricks, and, accordingly, are laid according to the brickwork principle. However, very often decorative elements can be additionally used in the building, which are of the appropriate size, ideally fitting into the overall construction of the blocks.

Elements intended for the construction of columns, for example, are put on support pillars embedded in the foundation.

The laying of all elements is carried out on a cement mortar, which results in a solid structure.

Just like brick, block masonry requires special skill. It is not as easy as it seems to build a smooth wall of relatively small-sized elements. So , doing work, you need to keep the building level at hand and control the verticality of the fence along the plumb line.

Often, such a fence of ordinary blocks will require decorative plastering or tiling.

Such a fence will always cost more than a conventional reinforced concrete sectional fence, since in addition to the material itself, it is necessary to take into account the considerable cost of masonry work and final finishing.

Fencing from monolithic slabs

Monolithic slabs are easy to install in that the entire length of the fence can be installed on a prepared foundation in just one day. For the construction of pillars, elements that are designed for block type fences are often used. Can .

If ordinary smooth railings are used for fencing concrete plates, then in order for the fence to acquire an aesthetic appearance, it is decorated with decorative plaster in combination with artificial or natural stone.

You can buy already decorated plates, but they will be much more expensive. In addition, they may be damaged during transport or unloading, and because of this, they will then have to be put in order.

self-fence

This type of fencing is most often used for temporary installation on the territory of various facilities under construction, since they do not require a foundation for them. Sections of such a fence are perfectly installed on a wide lower part. When the need for fencing is over, the sections are dismantled, loaded onto vehicles and transported to the next facility.

In the practice of individual construction, despite the ease of installation, such fences are usually not used.

brick fence

A brick fence has a very respectable appearance, and it looks especially harmonious if the house on the site is also built of brick.

The process of erecting such a fence requires great experience in such work, as soon as it may seem to an amateurish eye that bricklaying is a simple and affordable business for anyone. In fact, each master has his own secrets that allow you to make the fence neat and durable.

The foundation for such a fence is arranged in the same way as for a concrete fence, because in general the whole structure is quite massive.

Brick fences are completely enclosed, or the masonry can be combined with other elements, such as gratings. In the latter case, the entire site will be in sight, and the fence will only protect against the entry of unwanted guests into the territory, but will not close the territory from prying eyes.

Brick fencing has its advantages, as well as disadvantages that you need to know about before choosing this particular option.

Advantages of a brick fence:

1. Properly folded brick fencing is strong and durable; it should last at least five to six decades without problems. And if after this period a competent restoration is carried out, then the fence will stand for the same amount.
2. Such fences have a very aesthetic, neat appearance.
3. A brick fence does not require special maintenance in the form of painting or cleaning, which saves time and effort for site owners.

Disadvantages of brick fencing

1. The complexity and duration of construction, especially without proper experience.
2. Enough high price materials and the complexity of their delivery.
3. Such a fence requires a reliable continuous strip foundation.

For laying the fence, it is necessary to purchase or fireclay bricks - only in this case the fence will not require additional cladding. If using normal building brick, masonry most often will not be very beautiful, without clearly defined corners and edges. Laying must be done with jointing, carefully drawing out the seams, otherwise the whole view of the fence will be spoiled.

The laying process

In order for the fence to be durable and have a respectable appearance, masonry must be done immediately along the entire length of the fence. And the work must be carried out consistently.

The laying of the walls of the fence can be carried out in half a brick or in one brick.

Fence masonry "in brick"

• Before starting the laying of walls, a thin layer is stretched between the pillars. rope, which aligns horizontally. This will help make the rows of masonry perfectly even, since the first row sets the evenness of the rest of the masonry.

• The first step is to lay out the first three rows in columns.
• The columns are laid out around the supports embedded in the foundation, which are served by t pipes or reinforcing trusses.

• Then, brick laying follows in the walls of the fence to the same height. Further, it is necessary to take into account the necessary connection of the pillars with the walls laid out in the spans between the pillars. This is carried out using pieces of reinforcement, which are laid on top of the third row on posts and wall spans. Usually two pieces of reinforcement are laid, on both sides of the pole. At the same time, at least 500 ÷ 700 mm of reinforcement should be found on the laid out walls.

• You can also use for linking reinforcing mesh- it is laid in the same way as the pieces of reinforcement.
• The mentioned connecting parts are always laid (embedded) on the concrete solution previously applied to the surface.
• The reinforcement procedure is repeated every three rows.
• Starting from the seventh row, the laying of columns and walls is carried out simultaneously.
• You can make a bunch in another way, when all the columns first rise completely, and then the walls.

In this case, holes will have to be drilled in the walls of the pillars to install reinforcing pieces in them. Agree that this method is longer and more laborious. In addition, when drilling, you can accidentally damage the integrity of the brick pillars.

• To ensure that the seams of the masonry have the same thickness throughout their entire length, the easiest way is to use a metal wire with a diameter of 8-10 mm, the bars of which are laid along the edges of the masonry walls on both sides. These elements may remain in the masonry, but then a large amount of wire will be needed. It is better to remove them after the solution has set and use them further in the same way. The photo clearly shows the segments that fix the thickness of the seams.

So, for example, you can prepare ten segments of the desired length, which will be equal to the length of the span between the pillars.

Then, using wire, five rows are laid. After that, the wire is carefully pulled out from the lowest seam and used already in the sixth row (during this time, the mortar in the masonry should already seize, and subsidence will not follow). So gradually the segments are transferred from below to the upper rows.

After lifting 4 ÷ 5 rows of masonry, while the mortar has not yet strongly seized, after pulling out the metal rods, it is recommended to immediately do decorative stitching. If necessary, the mortar is added to the seams, and the excess concrete that has fallen on brick wall, is removed immediately.

Processing of seams with "embroidery"

• In order for the fence to stand in its original form as long as possible, after the concrete dries out and gains the necessary strength, the brick surface, cleaned of dirt and dust, is covered with waterproofing impregnation. It penetrates deep into and protects it from moisture, giving the material pronounced hydrophobic qualities.

The surface is covered with a roller, and after drying it becomes invisible visually. During rain, drops of water will immediately flow down the wall without soaking into the brick or seams.

You should not take on the work of erecting a brick fence on your own if there is no experience in laying bricks. From the first time you will never get a perfectly beautiful and even wall. It is better to trust an experienced bricklayer who has built such fences more than once - he will do his job much better and faster than a beginner.

Prices for building and facing bricks

Building and facing bricks

Video - Laying a red brick fence

wooden fences

Having prepared all the elements and tools, you can proceed to the process of erecting a fence. Installation work is carried out in stages:

1. As with the construction of any fence, the territory is marked first. According to the marked line for determining the location of the supporting pillars.
2. Poles can be mounted in two ways:

- Driving into the ground. When choosing this method of installing supports, the pipe must be driven in to a depth of at least 1 ÷ 1.20 m;

- . In this case, the posts can be installed at a shallower depth - usually ⅓ of the post height is enough, which will remain above the soil surface. With this technology, before installing the pillars, it will be necessary to drill holes with a diameter exceeding the diameter tr tubes by 3 ÷ 4 times. A sand cushion is poured at the bottom of the pit, which must be well compacted, and in the compacted state its thickness should be at least 100 ÷ 120 mm.

In the lower part of the column, in two or three places, segments of reinforcement are welded perpendicularly, protruding beyond the column in both directions by 70 ÷ 80 mm.

After the column is installed in the pit, a rough concrete solution is poured into it with gravel.

Then the column is set strictly vertically and fixed with stones, which are tightly installed in the concrete solution, in the gap between the column and the ground.

Having thus installed all the pillars, they are left to set for several days.

• Further, transverse crossbeams are welded onto the installed pillars. They also need to be set in level, exposing to the ideal horizontal.
• The next step is the installation of corrugated board. Sheets can be fixed to the joists with rivets or self-tapping screws, which are matched by color. In any case, it will be necessary to drill holes in the sheet and the welded crossbar for the fasteners.

Special "roofing" self-tapping screws for fastening sheets of corrugated board

• Fastenings are made in the lower part of the corrugated board wave, at a distance from each other, approximately 500 mm.

Installation of the fence takes place quite quickly, especially if there is a skilled assistant nearby. It is quite possible to cope with this work even in one day, of course, with the supporting pillars already installed.

Find out by studying the step-by-step instructions for the home master in our article.

Prices for popular types of corrugated board

Decking

Video: self-installation of a corrugated fence

Other types of fences

In addition to those already mentioned, ready-made fence sections made of galvanized metal rods are installed, which have a protective PVC coating. This version of the fence is installed in the same way as corrugated board - on support poles, however, there are models that have their own special stands. For fences with stands, installation of poles is not required - it is enough to prepare flat surface covered with fine gravel. The frames of such fences are fastened together.

Fencing sections have sharp upper edges, therefore, despite the external lightness of the structure and her not too high, it is not so easy to overcome such a fence.

Such a fence is quite durable and should last 25-30 years.

Another version of the "budget" fence is stretched on installed metal poles, interconnected with metal rods for rigidity. Installation of the chain-link is best done with assistants, as the mesh requires stretching and immediate fixing.

For its installation, posts are used that have special welded hooks, which, immediately after putting the net on them, are nailed to the support post.

Such a fence is usually installed in summer cottages or on the border between adjacent territories.

Video - The simplest chain-link fence

Thinking about the installation of the fence yourself, you first need to evaluate own forces, skills and financial capabilities. You should not take on difficult work, such as laying bricks, in the absence of experience and sufficient knowledge. Efforts, time and money may be wasted, and an ineptly erected fence will have to be dismantled and another fence installed.

Corrugated fence - the best solution for protecting the territory country house or cottages from prying eyes and unauthorized visits. Fences made of this material serve at least 30 years. The metal profile is extremely easy to process, and a simple installation technique allows you to install a fence around the house or summer cottage quickly and with your own hands, without involving additional labor. Possessing high operational characteristics and durability, measured in decades, the metal profile also performs a decorative function, with which you can ennoble private territory, making it not only inaccessible to prying eyes, but also homely.

Construction of a fence from a metal profile: the pros and cons

A distinctive feature of a metal profile (profiled sheet, corrugated board) is versatility. In addition to the arrangement of roofing and the construction of temporary utility structures (hangars, sheds, garages, etc.), this material is widely used in the construction of fences and fences for various purposes.

The metal profile is made from cold-rolled sheet steel, which, by means of special technology covered with a layer of zinc and a protective polymer film of various colors. The thickness of the profiled sheet is 0.4–1.2 cm. At the final stage of production, the sheet laid in rolls, using roll forming equipment (manual or automatic), receives a certain profile (trapeze or wave).

Good to know: The steel base and stiffening ribs provide increased resistance of the material to deformation and force, while galvanizing and polymer coating reliably protect the profiled sheet from rust and mechanical wear.

For the construction of fences, a wall profiled sheet with a profile height of 8 to 44 mm is used. The final cost of the material is influenced by such parameters as:

• thickness of the steel base;
• availability and quality of galvanization;
• quality polymer coating;
• profile shape and height.

Advantages of a metal profile

The main advantages of using corrugated board in the construction of fences and fences include:

1. High performance.
2. Small specific weight.
3. Ease of processing and installation.
4. Durability and resistance to aggressive operating factors.
5. Relatively low material cost.

The profiled sheet is well protected from rust, deformation, damage and climatic factors. The material is produced in a wide range of sizes, which allows it to be used for the construction of fences of any height and length.

Good to know: The lightness of the profiled sheet, as well as its mechanical rigidity, greatly simplifies the installation process. In addition, when building a fence from this material, the requirements for the strength of the supporting frame are reduced.

Cons of wall corrugated board

The disadvantages of the metal profile used in the construction of fences and barriers include:

1. Low level of sound insulation (a corrugated fence will not be able to protect the internal territory from noise coming from the street).
2. Low resistance to destructive effects (it is easy to break through a fence made of such material, say, with a heavy car, or cut a hole in it with a special tool for subsequent penetration into the fenced area).
3. Low presentability (corrugated board is significantly inferior in external attractiveness to traditional materials used in the construction of fences - wooden and plastic fences, metal, brick or stone).

Good to know: Despite the obvious shortcomings, the professional sheet has no equal in terms of efficiency and has absolute fire resistance. The material is produced in a wide range color schemes and a wide range of shapes and profile sizes, which allows us to satisfy almost any aesthetic needs of the buyer.

Photo: types of fences, ideas for implementation on the site

Profiled sheet as a decorative cladding on entrance gate Oh
Fence from a metal profile on metal supports: inside view
Decorative design of a profiled sheet as part of a country fence
Metal profile fence with decorative design: inside view
Fence made of profiled sheet with decorative design
Fence from a profiled sheet on a site with a slope of the terrain
Corrugated fence with brick pillars
Fence from a metal profile on a concrete foundation

Fence project and preparation for construction

It is necessary to carefully prepare for the construction of a fence from a metal profile. Errors in the design and installation process are unacceptable, as they entail unplanned expenses of time, nerves and money.

In order for the construction of the fence to be carried out quickly and not to take an unreasonably large amount of manpower and resources, at the preparatory stage of construction it is necessary:

1. Decide on the type and required characteristics of the metal profile.
2. Develop a construction project.
3. Calculate the required amount of materials.
4. Prepare a set of tools and auxiliary materials necessary for construction.
5. Run accurate markup fenced area for construction, taking into account the location of gates, entrance gates, terrain slope, etc.

Important to remember: After the purchase and delivery of the main material to the construction site, it must be carefully stacked and covered to protect against premature wear and climatic factors before carrying out installation work. The location of the stacks should not interfere with the passage, passage or placement of other building materials, elements of building structures, vehicles, etc.

What decking to choose?

If the decision to build a fence from a metal profile is made, it remains to choose a material that is suitable in terms of cost and quality. To do this, it is necessary to determine the requirements regarding its protective characteristics, as well as reliability, durability and resistance of the future fence to wear and damage.

But first, it does not hurt to pre-install:

• conditional life of the fence;
• priority on the aesthetics of appearance or operational reliability;
• design features of the fence and the possibility of replacing its individual elements during operation.

The list of key factors determining the choice of profiled sheet for the construction of the fence includes:

1. Material brand.
2. steel thickness.
3. The quality of the galvanized steel base of the profiled sheet.
4. type of polymer coating.
5. Sheet dimensions and profile options
6. Price-quality ratio.
7. Durability and wear resistance.
8. Aesthetic preferences of the owner of the protected area.

Profiled sheet marking

The metal profile has a special marking, which determines its main characteristics and purpose. So, for the construction of a fence, material grade C (wall) or HC (universal) is suitable. The numbers in the marking of the profiled sheet mean:

• profile height in mm;
• useful sheet width;
• thickness of the steel base.

Important to remember: The thicker the steel base and the higher the zinc content in protective layer, the more resistant to corrosion and deformation is the profiled sheet. However, at present, galvanizing technology is used less and less in the production of material. A much more reliable protection against corrosion, damage and wear is a special polymer coating, which, moreover, can be set in color and even texture, corresponding to the purpose of the metal profile.

Polymer coating and value for money

The polymer can be applied both on one and both sides of the sheet, which significantly affects the total cost of the material. In addition, the price of the metal profile is determined by the type of this very polymer coating:

1. Polyester (PE) - film thickness is about 25 microns. The coating is used to protect the inner surface of the material. The film has low resistance to mechanical damage and ultraviolet radiation, which is offset by the low cost of the profiled sheet.
2. Matte Polyester (PEM) is a 35 µm coating that is gloss-free and resistant to direct sunlight.
3. Pural (Pural) - a protective film about 50 microns thick. Differs in elasticity, high degree of anticorrosive protection and excellent color quality.
4. Polyvinyl fluoride (PVF, PVDF, PVF2) - coating with high rates strength and elasticity. Responds elevated operational requirements, possessing excellent resistance to ultraviolet, as well as rust and mechanical damage.
5. Plastisol (PVC200) is a universal film with a thickness of 200 microns, designed to protect surfaces of any type. Has high decorative qualities and elasticity, providing reliable protection steel from corrosion.

Important to know: The dependence of the price on the type of polymer coating, which largely determines the durability and wear resistance of the material, is obvious. The greatest demand in the construction of fences and barriers is used by a metal profile coated with matte polyester, which has an optimal price / quality ratio. Pural-coated material is also popular, since the latter provides not only high aesthetic performance of the profiled sheet, but also increases the life of the fence.

Profiled sheet parameters

The strength of wall corrugated board depends not so much on the thickness of the steel base (0.1 cm is enough for the construction of a fence), but on the size, shape and thickness of the ribs (waves) of the profile. Therefore, the main attention when buying should be paid to the height of the latter. For the construction of a fence in an area with normal wind loads, a material with a rib whose height does not exceed 21 mm is suitable. Concerning required sizes sheet and the amount of material, they are determined based on the required height of the fence, as well as its perimeter. In this case, it must be borne in mind that the profiled sheet will be mounted with an overlap.

For the construction of fences and barriers, four grades of wall corrugated board are used. Their calculated parameters are given in the table:

Good to know: Wall corrugated board is produced in sheets 12 m long, but before sale it is cut into pieces 2–3 m long that are more convenient for transportation and installation.

Proper design of the fence and calculation of materials, scheme

Before you go to the hardware store for materials, you should correctly calculate their quantity, as well as determine the amount of work on the manufacture of the main elements of the fence design. This can be done only if there is a detailed project. The latter is easy to develop on your own, without involving expensive specialists.

The first and main thing that is necessary for the design is the value of the perimeter of the fenced area. If it is not indicated in the cadastral plan, it will have to be measured independently. For this you will need:

• hammer marks (metal or wooden pegs) into the ground at the corners of the site, as well as at points where the fence changes direction;

• tie the tags with nylon or linen cord;

• calculate the length of the cord between the marks, which will correspond to the value of the perimeter of the site.

The next step is to determine the location and required dimensions of the entrance gate and gate. On the sides of the latter, it is necessary to set marks, measure the distance between them and subtract the obtained value from the total perimeter.

Calculation of the number and size of sections

1. For example, suppose that the plot has rectangular shape with sides of 20 and 15 m. We will take the width of the gate equal to 2.5 m, and for the gate we will set the value to 1.5 m. In this case, the length of the fence will be equal to: L=(20+15)*2 - (2.5+1 ,5)=66 m.
2. The standard length of the profiled sheet is 12 m, so for ease of transportation and installation it will have to be divided into segments. Therefore, at this stage, it is necessary to calculate how many segments will fit in one section along the length.
3. Set that the gate will be located next to the gate on the 20-meter side of the perimeter. In this case, the length of the fence in this section will be: l=20–4=16 m. Thus, we take the number of sections equal to 3 meters: 2 sections will have a 5-meter length, and the size of the remaining will be 6 m.
4. If we take the length of the sections on the opposite side of the perimeter as 5 m, their number here will be 4.
5. It remains to calculate the number of sections on the 15-meter segments of the perimeter. The calculation is carried out in a similar way: we take the length of the section equal to 5 m. This means that only 6 sections will be obtained along the width of the rectangle - 3 on each side.
6. Let's calculate the total number of sections: n=2+4+6+1=12+1. Thus, the fence will have 12 sections 5 m long and one 6 m section adjacent to the gate.

Support calculation

Having the value of the number of sections, we calculate the required number of supports using the formula:

From this it follows that for the installation of the fence you will need: K \u003d 13 + 1 \u003d 14 supports.

Important to know: It is convenient to use a profile pipe of square (50 * 50 mm) or round (d = 50 mm) section as supporting posts for a corrugated fence. It should be noted that the length of the supports is a composite value. The outer part should be at least 10–15 cm longer than the corrugated board sheet. This is necessary in order to leave a clearance of 5–10 cm high from below and a height margin in the upper part of about 5 cm. So, for a fence 2 m high, the height of the supports will be 210–215 cm. For installation in the ground, another 80-120 cm will be required (depending on the type of soil, the depth of freezing and the level ground water), and if the fence will be installed on a strip foundation - 40–50 cm.

Subject to necessary requirements to the design of the supports, their length will be:

L og \u003d 200 + 15 + 80 \u003d 295 cm (when installing supports in the ground);

L op \u003d 200 + 15 + 40 \u003d 255 cm (when installed on a foundation).

Calculation of corrugated board

Using the values ​​​​of the height of the fence, as well as the number and length of sections, the required dimensions and the number of profiled sheets are determined.

The height of the fence is equal to the length of the section of the profiled sheet. If the fence being designed is 2m high, a standard 12m sheet will need to be cut into 6 2m pieces. If a profiled sheet of the C21 brand is chosen for construction, 5 such sheets will go to each 5-meter section and 6 more sections of 1 m wide for the remaining 6-meter section.

As a result, the total number of profiled sheet segments 2 m long will be:

N=n 5 *5+n 6 *6=12*5+1*6=66 ​​segments

where n 5 and n 6 are the number of 5- and 6-meter fence sections.

It is important to remember: The installation of the profiled sheet is carried out with an overlap. This means that each of the sheets will lose a little in length during installation. Thus, when calculating the number and size of sheets relative to the length of the section, the value of the joint size, multiplied by 2, should be subtracted from the total length of the sheathing.

Calculation of transverse logs

For fences made of corrugated board, a metal profile pipe with a cross section of 40 * 20 mm and a length corresponding to the dimensions of each section is used as a transverse log. At the same time, for the installation of a fence with a height of 2 m, no more than 2 tiers of crossbars will be required.

This means that the number of lags for the calculated fence will be:

k=k s *2=13*2=26 lag

where k c is the number of fence sections.

Final result

As a result of the surveys, it was found that for the construction of a fence around the site in question, it is necessary:

• 26 crossbars;
• 14 support pillars;
• 66 sheathing sheets 2 m long.

Then it remains to re-draw the diagram of the site and put on it a projection of the fence with the designation of the number and size of sections, the location of the gate and gate and other important data. The construction project can be considered ready.

Necessary tools and auxiliary materials

In order to independently manufacture and install a fence from corrugated board, it is necessary to prepare in advance the tools that you cannot do without in the process of work.

This list should include:

• bayonet and shovel;
• concrete mixer (if the fence is installed on the foundation or the supports will be installed on concrete);
• earthen drill (for mounting support pillars in the ground);
• electric scissors;
• metal scissors;
• electric drill with a set of drills for metal;
• screwdriver;
• welding machine;
• circular saw with discs for metal;
• construction tape measure;
• measuring cord;
• building level;
• plumb.

In addition to the basic materials of corrugated board and profile pipe for the manufacture of supports and transverse logs for the construction of the fence, auxiliary means will be needed.

The last list contains:

• sand;
• crushed stone;
• cement;
• primer for metal racks and crossbars;
• paint;
• metal screws or other fasteners for cladding installation.

It is important to remember: When cutting metal, in the process of building a foundation or installing supports in the ground, as well as when installing crossbeams and fixing a profiled sheet, it is very important to observe safety precautions. This will avoid injury, as well as damage to the material and breakage of the tool. Protective goggles, gloves and overalls should be used when performing work operations. And most importantly: you need to prepare a free area for work, on which nothing will interfere with the manufacture of fence elements, and bring electricity to it to connect power tools.

How to build a fence from corrugated board with your own hands: step by step instructions

After marking the territory and preparing materials, it's time to start building. The general algorithm of actions is as follows:

• pouring the foundation with the installation of vertical supports on it;
• installation of support pillars in the ground;
• installation of transverse logs;
• priming and painting of the metal frame;
• cladding installation;
• decorative fence.

Good to know: If the installation of the supporting frame is carried out by welding, the welds must be cleaned. Also, plugs of the appropriate shape should be welded onto the support posts, which will prevent moisture from entering the pipe. Holes in metal are best done before assembly, although with a powerful drill and a quality drill, they can be made after. Primer and paint on metal carcass it is advisable to apply before the installation of the crate so as not to stain the new profiled sheet.

Laying the foundation for a corrugated fence

If the conditional life of the fence exceeds 20 years, or the nature of the soil or the layout of the site does not allow installation in another way, the fence is installed on a strip reinforced concrete foundation.

The foundation is poured in several stages:

With the help of a concrete mixer, a concrete solution is made from sand, crushed stone, cement and water, with which the trench is poured to the desired level. In the process, you should periodically check the vertical of the support posts or fix it to the formwork with a lock from the waste boards.

Important to know: The soil will not take away moisture from the concrete if the bottom of the trench is abundantly moistened before pouring. The finished foundation should be allowed to dry for at least 3 days, after which you can proceed with the installation of the transverse logs.

Installation of support pillars in the ground

If the fence is planned to be used for no more than 15–20 years, the fence is temporary, or the soil or site layout allows installation without pouring the foundation, the support posts are installed in the soil.

There are several ways to install supports, the choice of which depends on the nature of the soil, the depth of groundwater and the height of the fence:

• driving;
• partial concreting (combined installation);
• butovanie (installation on a pillow of sand and gravel);
• full concreting (with reinforcement);

The algorithm for installing fence supports into the soil looks like this:

1. Plugs are welded on the upper and lower ends of the supports, which will prevent moisture and soil from entering the pipe.
2. The corner supports and poles are installed first at the edges of the gate and gate. At the same time, it is necessary to carefully monitor compliance with vertical level supports.
3. Installed corner posts are knitted with twine or rope to mark the fence line.
4. The remaining supporting posts of the fence are mounted along the perimeter in the same way, observing the vertical level and the line set from the corner supports.

Important to know: To enhance bearing capacity concreted or partially concreted supports, the hole can be reinforced with thin (d \u003d 10 mm) reinforcement.

Installation of fence posts on a site with a slope

If a land plot has a slope, when pouring the foundation or installing support pillars, a number of additional steps must be taken. In particular, with a slight slope, the soil should be simply leveled.

When installing a fence on a foundation on a site with an average slope, the procedure will be as follows:

When installing supports in the ground on a site with a slope, the depth of the holes is adjusted in the same way: the bottom of the hole of the first support of the next level should be at the level of the middle of the hole of the last support of the previous one.

Important to know: The level difference in height should be the same along the entire length of the fence.

Installation of the supporting frame

After installing the support pillars in the ground or on the foundation, the installation of transverse logs is carried out. They can be installed by welding or by means of special “crab” fasteners.

When mounting on "crabs" in supports and transverse lags, it is necessary to make holes of the appropriate diameter for bolted connections.

The installation of crossbars for welding is carried out in one of three ways: the logs are butt-welded, on the sides of the support column, or fixed using a holder pre-welded to the support (a section of a U-shaped profile of the required dimensions).

Good to know: The location of the lag and the distance between them depends on the height of the fence. If the latter is 2 m, 40-50 cm must be subtracted from the upper edge of the support - at this level the upper line of the crossbars will be attached. Further down, we retreat 100–120 mm and mark the installation level of the lower lag. Then the distance from the lower crossbar to the ground will be: l=200–40–120=40 cm.

Sheathing with metal profiles and finishing, painting the fence

If the installation of the frame is completed, and plugs are welded on top of the supports, you can proceed to the final stage of construction of the fence sheathing. To do this, in the transverse lags with a step equal to the step of the profiled sheet profile, holes are made for fasteners. Before starting work, it is important not to forget to calculate the location of the joints of the metal profile; its sheets are attached directly to each other, bypassing the crossbars.

After installing the sheathing, the fence can be decorated with decorative elements. For example, forging or bumpers along the upper and / or lower edge of the profiled sheet. You can also additionally protect the caps of self-tapping screws and bolted connections with special plastic plugs.

It is important to remember: When joining sheets with an overlap, installation is carried out on the upper wave of the profile. Fixing the profiled sheet to the crossbars is carried out in the center of the lower profile wave.

The construction of a fence from corrugated board requires thorough preparation and, most importantly, correctly performed calculations. Then, if not allowed blunders during installation, the work does not take much time and effort. For example, it will take only 3-4 days to fence off a site with a perimeter of 60–70 m, of course, provided that you don’t have to dig a lot to level the soil. As a result, a reliable and durable fence should be obtained, which will serve as an excellent protection of the site from prying attention and greatly complicate unauthorized entry into the fenced area.

It is very important that at the dacha the eye rejoices not only with plantings, but also with the environment. About, and we have already told, it is time to talk about how to make fences for a summer residence with your own hands. Without them, the arrangement of a summer cottage is not complete, and therefore it is better to take care of creating a strong and good fence. And even better, it fits into the overall picture of what you are creating on your site.

Do-it-yourself fences for summer cottages cheap

Don't be put off by the length of the fence or its height. Let's start with the fact that the fence is easy to make with your own hands and fairly budgetary, because if you have the desire and basic knowledge of the "fence theory", then you can safely proceed to the next step - the choice of materials.

Country fence can be made from:

• tree;
• picket fence;
• metal profile;
• grids;
• yes, anything!

You just have to choose what you like more and fit into the overall design.

Wood fence

Wood is one of the best materials. It looks noble, withstands bad weather perfectly, it can be purchased without problems and at the same time it is environmentally friendly.

It is not necessary to purchase an already prepared board. It is enough to get stock and leftovers that have accumulated in the backyard and are still suitable for use - for example, ranch fences allow the use of untrimmed and uneven board. You only need to dig wooden poles along the intended path and nail the boards to them in a horizontal position.

This is a fairly simple and cheap fence for giving, and given its environmental friendliness, then it is worth giving preference to just such fences.

In addition, depending on the length of the board, you yourself choose its direction, so you can build a ranch fence, as well as a simple vertical or horizontal fence, long established.

To install a wooden fence with your own hands, you will need:

• timber;
• boards;
• nails;
• a hammer;
• shovel;
• sand.

If desired, cement and bitumen can be added to this list if you want the timber to be installed as stable as possible.

The principle of installation of a wooden fence is very simple. You dig holes for the support beam and fill them with cement or densely cover with sand, tamping it down. So the supports will not deform under the load of the boards and become more stable.

Then you just have to nail the boards to the pillars. If you want to fasten the boards vertically, then between the supports you will have to stretch and nail two planks, on which the boards will then be attached. If you still want to see a ranch fence on your territory, then it is enough to immediately fasten the boards from pole to pole. More details - on the video Ivan Galkin:

Do not forget only that the tree has its own shelf life and does not like moisture. Therefore, be sure to paint the fence after construction and periodically inspect it for damage in order to repair or replace the board in time.

picket fence

Picket fences are the most popular type of wooden fences. And no wonder, because the fence is so easy to install, economical to purchase and beautiful in finished form.

Before proceeding with construction, it is necessary to mark the territory where the building will be located, determine its height and frequency of installation of the picket fence. Although we install a fence for protection, but if the area is tightly closed, then we can deprive the plants of light, which will lead to crop failure.

A set of materials for building a picket fence is similar to what we cited above:

• beam for supports;
• board for horizontal screed;
• cement;
• sand;
• nails or screws.

Tools can be different - from a shovel with a hammer to a screwdriver and an electric drill. Only the speed of construction will depend on this, but not the quality of the fence.

First you need to install the pillars, which will become the basis of the fence. Therefore, dig holes for the timber at an equal distance from each other, but no further than the length of the board, which will serve as a screed for us. After that, install the supports and fill them with cement mortar.

While the solution hardens (and this will take at least 3 days), you can proceed to the installation of sections. To do this, cut the board to a length sufficient to attach its ends to the support. We place the sections on supports with the help of nails or self-tapping screws and then attach the picket fence to them at an equal distance.

As you can see, the process of building a fence is quite simple and does not require special building skills - only patience to wait for the mortar to harden. After that, you can create a fence to your liking.

Well, in order to understand the intricacies of working with a picket fence and its installation, we recommend watching a video master class Andrey Krylov:

Metal profile fence

And yet, despite the beauty and cheapness of the fence and the tree as a whole, it has one drawback - such a fence is short-lived and maximum term his service is only 15 years. Therefore, many, wanting to save money, are looking for a more durable, affordable and strong material - a metal profile.

Due to its strength and availability, corrugated board has long been widely used by summer residents. It is used for beds, roofing and, of course, for fences.

The metal profile does not have the most aesthetic appearance, so most designers categorically bypass the profiled sheet when creating beautiful and original fences. But its availability and ease of use plays into the hands of summer residents, allowing you to make nice fence to give their own hands.

The construction of such a fence is a little different from others. You will need all the same support poles and boards for a horizontal screed, on which the profile itself will be attached.

And since the metal profile is still not the most popular material for creating a fence, it’s worth dwelling a bit on basic requirements for its installation:

1. The distance between the supports should not exceed 2.5 meters. And it is better to stop at a more frequent, half-meter installation. This is due to the fact that the profiled sheet is flexible enough and under the pressure of the wind it will deform, losing beauty and, most importantly, strength. Therefore, the shorter the sections, the better the fence will turn out.
2. The supports must be immersed in the ground by at least 1.5 meters. Despite the flexibility of the metal profile, the sheet itself is quite heavy and requires stable support. Therefore, it is recommended that all supports be cemented at the base.
3. It is best to use not a beam as a pole, but a pipe with a diameter of 6-8 cm and a wall thickness of at least 2 mm, such supports will definitely become a good basis for a stable and strong fence.
4. It is recommended to use 3 horizontal lags when mounting the profile - top, bottom and in the middle. So the fence will be more resistant to deformation and it is better to keep its shape under any pressure.

And so that you are convinced of the simplicity of building such a fence, we suggest you watch the video master class of the channel Do it yourself 36, where they share with us all the tricks of working with a metal profile:

Mesh fence

Yet one of the most budget options considered a mesh fence. Like any metal product, the mesh perfectly tolerates most natural phenomena. And even rust can be prevented by timely processing. Therefore, fences from it come out quite durable.

There are several types of mesh for fences:

1. chain link, which is sold in rolls, is treated with polymers to prevent corrosion and is easily installed between poles without unnecessary partitions,
2. corrugated, formed from a wire with a cross section of 6-7 mm and bent by a wave. It has a strong weave. And it keeps its shape well.
3. Welded, has a smaller wire cross section than in the case of corrugated, but due to welding it is stronger. True, using it for a fence will be more expensive than in the case of a chain-link.

Fencing from any mesh can be made in two different ways:

1. Stretch the fabric around the perimeter and attach to support pillars.
2. Pull the mesh onto the frame, and then assemble the fence from the resulting sections.

Allows you to keep track of your pets

Both methods have their own characteristics, so it is impossible to single out one of them as more profitable or simpler.

So, for example, with a simple stretch of the grid from post to post, you will reduce the time for preparing materials. After all, you will only need to drive in a support, determine the height of the future fence and stretch the mesh, attaching it to the posts with wire.

This method is easy to perform and practical if you are short on time and want to make a temporary fence.

And yet, it should be borne in mind that for the chain-link mesh, the posts will have to be placed at intervals of 1.5-2 meters, and this will increase the budget for the material. While for a corrugated mesh, a distance of 3-4 meters is sufficient.

But if there are height differences on your site, then this is the only solution if you have chosen the mesh as the material. The sections are already prepared metal profile frames, which brings us to the limitation - if you install them downward, there will be an open space under the fence, which does not add either security or aesthetic beauty to the site.

Installation of sections is easier than stretching the mesh fabric. Finished frames are simply attached to pre-installed poles equipped with the necessary anchors, or even welded to them.

As you can see, the choice of grid and method depends entirely on your desire to ennoble the site, the time you have and, of course, the budget allocated for this.

To figure out which material is right for you, you can familiarize yourself with a detailed master class on selecting materials and installing it in a fence.

If you want more clarity and understanding of how to do everything right, with explanations experienced master, then you should watch the video tutorial from the channel RemontHelp.com:

The grid itself consists of cells, i.e. your site will be clearly visible from the side of the street. Therefore, it is usually recommended to use this material only between areas, so as not to cover the plantings from the light.

Original ideas for a fence in the country from improvised materials

Every practical summer resident will consider it his duty to save as much as possible and use everything that remains from other projects. Therefore, before undertaking the construction of a fence with our own hands, we suggest thinking about whether it is worth rushing to the store for a net or picket fence? Maybe get by with improvised materials?

Then let's see what we have accumulated over the entire period of ownership of the cottage? And is it possible to make worthy fences out of this rubbish?

There is only one answer - yes, you can.

And car tires, and, and covers from them can become a fence or its decoration. And it will be no worse and no more boring than assembled from high-quality materials.

Tire fence

Let's start with tires. A lot of this good always accumulates, so over time the question arises of where to put them. Disposal costs money, and a fence will also bring benefits. The choice is obvious.

Somewhat eclectic

It remains only to fill the territory well and start installing tires on top of each other in a checkerboard pattern, as if laying out bricks, or fix them on a previously installed chain-link fence.

By the way, if you build a pyramid fence out of tires, then the earth in the protruding parts can be used for flower beds, thus creating a whole green wall.

Fence from plastic bottles

plastic can be considered ideal material for a fence. After all, it decomposes in at least 60 years, which means that the fence made of it will not suffer from rain or sun. Although bottle plastic is still soft, and at first glance its shape is not suitable for building a fence, many began to give it a chance and use it for other purposes.

To cover the whole country cottage area such a "plastic fence", you will need to accumulate a lot of bottles to create a full-fledged fence.

The small weight of the material makes it easily deformed from physical damage. In addition, if you have accumulated mostly transparent bottles, then such a fence will not provide protection from prying eyes. But the cost of the finished fence will be small.

If you combine bottles different color, then you can collect entire mosaics. So creative personalities willing to endure shortcomings for the sake of original fence attracting the attention of passers-by.

To create a full-fledged fence from plastic bottles, it is recommended to take the same type of material size. And it can already be assembled into a wall, strung on a wire like a curtain, or exposed to each other, filling the voids with cement mortar. The result will depend entirely on your desire to strengthen the fence or make it more airy.

By the way, bottle caps will also come in handy. After all, you can make a movable fence out of them, and even with any pattern.

This will require many covers with four drilled holes and meters of wire. Based on the colors that you have, select a pattern, or rather a pattern for beadwork, and then simply string the caps in order, as in embroidery, in rows. Then pass the wire through vertical holes, thus connecting the rows.

If you are just bored with the old fence, but you still want to use the covers, then just screw them with screws, creating a bright panel pattern on the fence. And now you already have an interesting wall on the site, attracting the attention of the kids and pleasing your eyes.

A master class from Soloremont.

However, an ordinary palisade or an old picket fence can simply be painted in an original way.

funny pencils

You create your own mood and desire to visit the country house more often!

Do-it-yourself wattle in the country: a master class for lovers of rural romance

And if you have ever seen a Ukrainian farm or met mud huts in the south of Russia, then your heart could not remain indifferent to this peaceful romance. And it’s not even these cute, like toy houses, with a thatched roof and whitewashed walls, that sink into the soul, but a wicker fence with clay upside down hanging on it.

And yet, in addition to the decorative component, wattle is perfect solution even for a modern dacha. Such a fence will not yield in strength to either a wooden or metal one. And in terms of beauty and attractiveness, it will be in the first place among them.

And from the point of view of economy, it fits well into our criteria. After all, weaving such a fence will allow you to realize your creative part, and save your budget.

Flowers are clearly visible

But first you need to prepare the material:

• timber or logs as a support and basis for weaving;
• material for weaving (willow rods are preferred, although rods of other trees are also suitable, the main condition is their plasticity);
• gloves;
• shovel;
• sand.

If you are going to weave along the already driven pillars, then first dig them in and fill them with sand, tamp. After that, you can proceed to the rods themselves. It is necessary to treat the rods with steam so that they become more ductile and do not break when deformed.

You can weave in different ways:

• horizontally, passing the rods in a figure eight between the pillars. This method was borrowed from weavers;
• vertically, between horizontally arranged lags. Such weaving comes out more decorative than practical. That is why it is used for fencing between neighboring areas, but not external ones;
• diagonally, forming the original wooden mesh. This type weaving is the most laborious, because the rods must be long so that the fence comes out at least of medium height. In addition, each rod is recommended to be dug into the ground for greater stability.

To understand the intricacies of simple weaving and try to make your first wattle fence, we recommend that you look at the video tutorial Oleg Bryukhanov, where he shares the secrets of creating a simple but beautiful fence.

If you prefer sectional fencing, then a master class will come in handy. Yura Kulakevich, where he shows how to create a wicker wattle base.

As you can see, a fence is not just a protective structure that hides a summer cottage from prying eyes, lovers of someone else's crops and stray dogs. A self-made fence is also a decoration of the territory, allowing you to enjoy every day spent in nature, among the plants planted by us with great love.

Many construction teams take up the installation of a corrugated fence. The process is not troublesome and fast, but the earnings are substantial.

You can eliminate this expense item from the total estimate for the improvement of a summer house or a private house by deciding to make a fence from corrugated board with your own hands.

The purpose of the fence on the site is to protect the territory. At the same time, it has another function - representative.

Previously, the main material for the construction of fences was wood - an affordable material, but requiring care and protection from destruction, at present, other building materials also compete with it: brick, concrete, polycarbonate, mesh, forging, corrugated board.

According to the ratio of the parameters "price-installation-durability-appearance", the leadership belongs to corrugated board, which led to its wide distribution among users.

Advantages of corrugated fences

• ease of material and installation;
• strength (rigidity);
• resistance to corrosion;
• uniform and very slow fading (like paint on a car);
• aesthetic appeal;
• undemanding to care;
• long service life;
• relatively low price.

Such a list of advantages has few building materials. But, all these properties are fully disclosed only with proper installation. So, you need to know how to make a corrugated fence correctly. Within the article, we will talk about the nuances of choosing a material, the specifics of its calculation, the types of a frame for a fence, we will describe how to attach a corrugated board and much more.

Do-it-yourself fence from corrugated board -
step by step guide from A to Z

Installation of a corrugated fence includes only screwing the sheet to the frame, this is a process consisting of several stages. Each of which we will describe in detail in the form of step-by-step instructions.

Stage 1. Scheme of a fence from corrugated board - from a sketch to a drawing

An arbitrary schematic drawing (sketch) is needed in order to visualize the design features of the fence.

There are two types (types) of a fence made of corrugated board:

• solid;
• sectional.

It is the type of fence that determines the consumption of material and the methods of installing structural elements.

Apply to the drawing diagram:

• the location of the fence on the site. Helps to take into account the features of the site: relief, plantings, buildings, access roads, gate installation site, etc.;

• if the site is uneven (hill, low) put a place where there will be elevation changes. Manufacturers producing quality material profiled sheets are made with a length multiple of 50 mm. this allows you to achieve visually the same height of the fence, despite the height differences on the ground.

• dimensions: fence height and length of individual straight sections;

• the location of the columns (supports);

Note. With a sectional fence, the width of the section is determined by the width of the sheet. It must be a multiple of 1, 1.5 or 2 sheets.

A detailed diagram simplifies the calculation of the material.

Stage 2. Corrugated fence materials

Construction will proceed quickly if the necessary materials for manufacturing are prepared in a timely manner.

What materials are needed for a corrugated fence:

1. Decking

When choosing a profiled sheet (corrugated sheet), you need to pay attention to the thickness (0.45-0.5 mm +/- 0.06 mm), wave height, absence of a capillary groove, parameters, coating, color and texture.

The profiled sheet has a high windage, this must be taken into account when planning the frame.

Note. The dimensions of the profiled sheet for the fence differ from manufacturer to manufacturer, this must be taken into account when choosing a material. It is also worth knowing that the warranty period for galvanized corrugated board is 20-30 years, and with polyester coating - up to 50 years (depending on the thickness of the layer).

2. Support posts (pillars)

Theoretically, any material can be used: wood, stone, metal.

When deciding which poles to use for the fence, keep in mind that the most simple and affordable option- metal pipes.

Rack parameters depend on the expected load. Usually pipes 60x40x2 mm or 40x40x2 mm are used. For round pipes diameter - 60-100 mm.

You can use purchased ready-made pipes for the fence (photo) (for any type of soil) or piles (normal soils and loams).

The advantage of ready-made supporting pillars is the presence of a “heel” for mounting on a pillow, holes for fixing corrugated board and a top plug that prevents water from entering the pillar.

3. Cross beams

For logs (beams) it makes sense to use square pipes 40x40x2 mm. or 40x20x2 mm. The general recommendation is that the width of the log is equal to half the width of the supporting column.

It is unacceptable to use wooden logs, due to the fact that the wood tends to rot at the place where the sheet is attached. This will not only reduce the life of the fence, but also prevent the sheet from being reused. The metal corner is also not suitable for logs, with a thickness of 2 mm it will not provide adequate resistance to wind load, and manufacturers do not recommend using a thicker one.

Note. A special self-tapping screw for corrugated board with a drill is designed for drilling metal with a thickness of not more than 2.5 mm. So the use of a thick-walled profile is fraught with additional drilling efforts.

4. Plate holder (bracket) for corrugated board

Special fasteners (brackets) are used when assembling the fence frame by a non-welding method, on hardware.

5. Plugs for poles (supports)

Plastic plugs perform a protective function so that water does not get inside the pipe.

In practice, the post is closed with a special overlay or plastic bottle. Not very aesthetically pleasing, but certainly cheap, and good as a temporary fix.

6. Hardware

Needed for weldless assembly of the fence frame. To do this, use a bolt or screw M6 (30 and 20 mm). As well as self-tapping screws for fastening corrugated board or rivets.

Professionals advise using a self-tapping screw, because. it is equipped with an additional gasket (neoprene rubber), which allows you to tightly press the profiled sheet without damaging its surface. Its length is 15-35 mm.

Advice. When using rivets, the edges of the holes for them are recommended to be treated with special paint. This will prevent the rapid appearance of rust at the attachment point and the formation of rusty smudges on the corrugated board, which are very difficult to eliminate.

The paint is used to touch up scratches that may appear during the installation of the profiled sheet, as well as to paint over the cut on the sheet. Consumption is small, one can, as a rule, is enough.

8. Decorative end plate for decorating the fence

U-shaped bar (fence, cover), which is installed on the upper edge (edge) of the profiled sheet and protects users from possible cuts, and the sheet from rust.

The material was prepared for the site www.site

Note. When buying, please note that the edges of the bar must be bent (rolled). Otherwise, they will not only scratch the metal during installation, but will lose their shape (the edges will move away from the sheet) during operation.

Additional materials and tools:

• cement, gravel, sand - for installing support pillars or arranging the foundation;

• level, plumb line, welding machine (and consumables), screwdriver, mortar containers, formwork boards (if necessary), shovel or drill, primer and anti-corrosion mortar for metal, riveter (if necessary), rope, goggles and gloves, grinder (if necessary, cutting profiled sheets).

Stage 3. Calculation of material for a corrugated fence

How to determine how much building material is required for manufacturing.

1. Calculation of the number of corrugated sheets:

• with a continuous fence - the total length of the fence is divided by the useful width of the sheet. Rounding goes up;

• at sectional. If the size of the section (span) is equal to the width of the sheet, the total width of the sheet is used. If it is planned to install one and a half or two sheets there - useful.

Note. The sheet can be installed both vertically and horizontally. With horizontal fastening, the height of the fence will be equal to 1, 2 or 3 working widths of the sheet. When vertical - is determined by the customer.

Advice. When calculating, do not operate with such a concept as total area required corrugated board. Keep calculations in pieces at a given sheet height.

2. Calculation of the number of posts for a corrugated fence

The number of supports depends on the distance between the corrugated fence posts

• with a solid fence, the total length of the fence is divided by the estimated distance between the posts (racks). Taking into account the windage of the sheet, it is taken equal to 2,000 - 3,000 mm. It is not advisable to increase the distance, since this will lead to an increase in the thickness of the racks or the number of longitudinal logs.

• at sectional. The number is determined by the expected number of sections. When installing racks for mounting fence sections, you need to calculate in advance the distance between the posts so that it corresponds to the total (when installing one sheet per section) or useful (1.5-2 sheets) area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe corrugated board.

Note. The calculations take into account that the support posts (pillars) must be installed at the corners of the fence, as well as at the installation site of the gate and / or gate. The number of intermediate supports is rounded down. And the difference is compensated by the deviation from the specified distance between the racks.

The size of the post is determined by the height of the fence, taking into account that the posts go deep into the soil by 30% of their length. Thus, with a fence height of 2,000, the height of the support post for a fence made of corrugated board should be 2,600-2,700. For intermediate posts, an installation depth of 25% of overall height fence. Then the length of the rack will be 2,500 mm.

3. Calculation of the number of transverse logs

The amount depends on how the fence is installed.

• Masters advise using 2 logs with a fence height of up to 2,000 mm. Moreover, their distance from the edges of the corrugated board is 300 mm.

• With a fence height of more than 2,000 mm - 3 logs.

Thus, the total lag molding is determined by multiplying the total length of the fence by the number of crossbars.

4. Plate holder

The number of plates is equal to the number of support posts multiplied by the number of rows of logs.

5. Pole cap

The number of plugs is equal to the number of support posts. Plus 2-3 spare ones (useful during the operation of the fence).

6. Hardware

When calculating self-tapping screws, it is taken into account that fastening is carried out in two extreme waves and through two in the middle of the profiled sheet in each of the transverse logs. Thus, with two transverse lags, 6 pieces are required per sheet, with three - 9 pieces. The number of hardware is rounded multiple of the package (standard package - 250 pcs). Since, in the process of tightening the self-tapping screw, defects may occur.

When fastening with rivets, their consumption increases, since they are fastened along the edges and through the wave.

Standard packing of paint 50, 100, 200, 500, 900 gr. The choice depends on the length of the fence. Usually 50 gr. banks are enough.

8. Decorative end strip

The amount is equal to the length of the fence divided by the working length of the bar. The standard length of the plank is 2,000 mm, the working length (including overlap) is 1850-1950 mm.

Stage 4. Do-it-yourself fence installation from corrugated board

Installation technology step by step:

1. Site preparation

Cleaning the ground surface of everything that will interfere with the installation of sheets and poles.

2. Foundation and / or installation of support posts

Note. The destruction of the corrugated sheet begins at the point of contact with the ground surface. Pebbles, dirt, mechanical damage lead to the appearance of defects precisely from the bottom of the sheet. In addition, the uneven terrain of the site often creates difficulties in the installation of supports. That is why the foundation for a fence made of corrugated board is an obligatory stage in the installation of a fence.

What is the best foundation for a corrugated fence?

Soil research usually helps to decide on which foundation to put a fence from a profiled sheet in a particular area. But since the fence made of corrugated board is a relatively light construction, the usual one is suitable for it. Its optimal depth is 300-400 mm, and minimum width foundation for a fence made of corrugated board, is determined by the width of the support post (columns).

We will not dwell on how to fill the foundation. But we note such a nuance, the depth of the pit at the place of installation of the base support posts (along the edges of the fence, corners, at the place of installation of the gate) should be 1/3 of their height + 100-150 mm for installing a pillow under the sole of the stand. For intermediate posts - 1/4 of the height of the support + the height of the pillow. This will eliminate the influence of groundwater and soil freezing on the rack.

Preparation and installation of formwork is no different from arranging a strip foundation for a house or gazebo.

First of all, base support posts are installed (along the edges of even sections of the fence), a rope is pulled between them and intermediate posts are installed along it. At the place of installation of the support posts, the soil is removed with a drill, a gravel-sand cushion is poured, on which the posts are installed. In this case, metal pipes should be treated with an anti-corrosion solution.

Users note that it is better to concrete the racks by 100-150 mm. So they remain stable when reinforcing the formwork and filling it with concrete. If it is planned to compact the pillars, then the pillow should be made 200-250 mm high and the racks should be hammered into it. This method is more laborious, but less costly and reliable.

Advice. The use of a level and a plumb line when installing racks is mandatory.

A simpler option would be to install support racks without arranging the foundation. Installation requirements are the same. The depth is equal to 1/3 or 1/4 of the length of the rack, depending on the place of its installation, the thickness of the gravel-sand cushion is 100-150 mm, the mandatory treatment with an anti-corrosion solution, checking the level and reliable concreting.

Note. In practice, corrugated fence posts are installed with deviations from the above technology. This is justified with stable soils.

Alternative ways to install the racks are shown in the diagram.

3. Mounting lag

Fastening of a professional flooring is carried out on cross logs. They are mounted on support posts after they are securely concreted. In this case, it is impossible to rush work, because. this can cause the rack to deviate from the vertical.

The cross joists can be welded or screwed to the support posts. Masters recommend using a holder plate (bracket) for these purposes. Thus, the plate is screwed to the support post, and the lag to the plate, this makes the project a little longer and more expensive, but the fastening is considered more reliable.

Three ways to attach the log to the support posts (photo)

- in front of the column butt. The method is ideal for the construction of solid fences;

- behind the post using a holder (bracket). Suitable for sectional fences;

- side of the post. The advantage of this method is that the corrugated board can be attached not only to the log, but also to the supporting column, which makes the structure more stable. But, the duration of work and the consumption of self-tapping screws increases. Suitable for sectional fences.

Note. With a significant slope of the site, the transverse logs are mounted with an offset, as shown in the photo.

A fully finished frame is covered with an anti-corrosion primer and paint.

4. Decorative design of columns

This step is only possible if sectional type corrugated board fence. Here, the installed metal support posts can be overlaid with bricks or lined with stone. According to many users, a fence made of corrugated board with brick pillars looks more beautiful and presentable than with metal racks or even solid.

Note. A similar decor of the fence supports is thought out at the planning stage. Because the presence of brickwork makes adjustments to the distance between the pillars, and hence the number of sheets mounted in the section.

Of course, you can make a decision to finish the racks with bricks at any stage, but you should be prepared for the fact that the profiled sheet will have to be cut to length, and this will lead to waste not only of the sheet, but also of paint, and cutting tools, time and money.

Users agree that this work should be entrusted to mason masters, because. precisely laying bricks in this case determine the aesthetic properties of the fence. If you decide to do the work yourself, then you should know:

• it is advisable to use high quality decorative bricks (chips and efflorescence are unacceptable);

• adhere to the same thickness of the masonry seam;

• tie every third row with a metal mesh (reinforce);

• the void between the masonry and the support pipe is completely filled with concrete mortar;

• make a decorative element at the top of the pillar.

5. Installation of corrugated board on the fence

To avoid the appearance of rust, you need to know how to fix the corrugated board correctly.

Rivets or special self-tapping screws are used to fasten the profiled sheet to each other and to the log. Installation begins based on the configuration of the sheet. One of the extreme waves of the sheet is covered (left or right depends on the manufacturer's equipment). The first sheet is mounted in such a way that the covering wave of the next one closes the wave of the previous one, and not vice versa. In order not to encounter a situation where a sheet cut near the gate refuses, installation must begin with these elements.

Advice. To ensure ventilation, it is necessary to make the distance of the sheet along the soil surface 50-100 mm.

The profiled sheet must be fixed along the edges to each of the transverse logs. One mount is in the middle of the sheet. If the fence is being built in a windy region, it is advisable to fasten the hardware through two waves.

How to properly fix the profiled sheet?

To screw a self-tapping screw into corrugated board, you also need to have certain skills. Namely, to know that a self-tapping screw:

• "jumping" of the self-tapping screw threatens to damage the front surface of the corrugated board.

6. Installation of additional elements

In fact, the installation of a fence made of corrugated board ends with the steps described above. However, manufacturers, craftsmen and experienced users recommend covering the upper end of the profiled sheet with a special decorative U-shaped strip (end fence strip).

The overlay will give the fence an aesthetic appearance and exclude damage to users from the sharp edges of the sheet.

The bar is simply put on the sheet, so when ordering, pay attention to its width.

For corrugated board with a wave height of 8 mm, you need a strip 10 mm wide (including rolling) or 8 mm (without rolling).

Please note that the corrugated board of most manufacturers is painted in color only on one side. The unpainted gray side looks towards the house. If trees, shrubs or grapes are planted along the fence, this will hide the unpresentable appearance of the fence.

Stage 5 Cleaning the area after the construction of the fence

Cleaning is the logical conclusion of the construction process. Cleaning is necessary in order to avoid injury by cuttings of corrugated board, scattered self-tapping screws and to give the site a well-groomed appearance.

Do-it-yourself fence installation from corrugated board - video

Installation of corrugated fences - price for work and material

Material	The cost of a fence from corrugated board with manual installation (the price of the material is indicated)	The cost of installing a fence from corrugated board subject to the involvement of hired workers (only work without material)
Decking	140-680 rub/sq.m.
Pipe 60x60x2	110 rub/m.p.
Pipe 40x40x2	70 rub/m.p.
Pipe 40x20x2	60 rub/m.p.
Plate holder	80-150 rub/pc.
Pole cap	1.7-59 rub/piece
Hardware (self-tapping screw)	2.5-5.3 rubles / piece.
180 rub/piece (cylinder)
End plate (2000 mm)	60-110 rub/pc.
Cement	175 rubles / 50 kg.
Sand	80 rubles / 50 kg.
Gravel, fraction 20-40 mm.	100 rubles / 40 kg.
Stainless Steel - alkyd primer for metal	210 rub/kg.
Foundation device	0	5 000 rub. per sq.m. (price depends on soil type)
Drilling a hole or driving a pile	0	From 200 rubles / piece.
Pillar concreting	0	From 500 rubles / piece.
lag mount	0	From 50 rub/m.p.
Fixing a corrugated sheet	0	From 200 rub/m.p.

The total cost of building a corrugated fence is determined based on the need for one or another type of material.

The cost of installing a turnkey corrugated fence (price per meter of work, materials with installation) is shown in the table.

Conclusion

A fence made of corrugated board looks great, endures any temperature changes and all types of atmospheric phenomena. But there are two weak points- windage and poor-quality installation. We hope that the information provided here will allow us to take into account and eliminate both of these shortcomings in a timely manner.

The construction of a country fence is a rather laborious process. However, thanks to our instructions, you will learn how to make a fence in the country and significantly save time and effort. In the last article, we reviewed typical options country fences, on the example of which you can build a fence from any material. But we will describe the features of the construction of the structure from each of them below. A huge role in the durability and strength of the entire structure is played by the reliability of supporting structures and foundations.

Foundation - the basis of the design of the fence

In order for the country fence to stand on your site for more than a dozen years, you need to approach its construction thoroughly. The guarantee of the reliability of the fence is a properly laid foundation and well-installed supports. The foundation of the fence, like that of residential buildings, is tape and pole.

Strip foundation

It is customary to pour the strip foundation under the heavy structures of the building, on heaving soil, if necessary, to create a completely fenced area that is not visible from the outside, if it is necessary to exclude the penetration of wild animals and other living creatures into the dacha.

The foundation tape for the fence is made using the following technology:

1. Dig a trench 30 - 80 centimeters deep, for greater reliability, go deep to a depth of 1.5 meters.
2. Do sand cushion, which is abundantly poured with water.
3. Tie the reinforcement, vary the size of the cell depending on the desire.
4. Erect the formwork of the foundation of the fence in such a way that the fence canvas is located at a height of 30-50 centimeters above the ground.
5. The formwork is filled with concrete mortar. If you are using posts as support for the canvas, they must be installed and leveled before the foundation is poured.

Pillar foundation

The pillar foundation is more economical and is suitable, first of all, for light building envelopes. When erecting a wooden fence on a pillar foundation, it is important to process all wooden parts with special composition, which prevents decay, because such structures are more exposed to moisture from grass. A well-thought-out and correctly made fence on such a foundation is no less durable than a fence on a strip foundation.

Technology for pouring a pillar foundation for a country fence:

1. With a garden drill, dig holes for poles that have a depth of 100-150 centimeters. Make the diameter larger by 15-30 centimeters than the diameter of the pillars. The distance between the posts should be 2-3 meters, depending on the required span width.
2. Pour 20 centimeters of sand with gravel or the sand itself into the pits, pour abundantly.
3. After you have leveled the pillars, fill the pits with a solution of sand concrete, add crushed stone if desired.

The result was cemented poles for the country fence. Further, it is customary to attach spans to the pillars if you use ready-made structures, for example, from a chain-link mesh, or logs - horizontal guides where pickets are stuffed or a fence canvas is attached.

Corrugated fence

One of the popular materials for the construction of a country fence is corrugated board, which has many advantages. Installing a fence of this type in the country provides significant time savings, because the work goes quickly enough. You just need to determine the fence line along the perimeter of the site, put drains and poles, which should be sheathed with corrugated board.

Advantages of corrugated board

Such a fence does not provide outsiders with the opportunity to observe what is happening on the land, unlike a fence made of a lattice or chain-link. Decking reflects sound well and is durable material, and also does not require the involvement of professionals, you only need to buy some tools.

For the fence, it is recommended to choose a corrugated board with a corrugation height of no more than 21 millimeters. Material with a higher height is not profitable to buy, as it is intended for roofing and has greater rigidity to withstand the seasonal mass of snow and rain.

Installation of a fence from a professional flooring

Before building a fence from corrugated board, it is worthwhile to calculate the perimeter of the building. You need to outline the position of the country fence and determine the location of the gate and gate, as well as determine the location of the pillars for support with an installation step of close to 3 meters. Then you need to determine what the height of the perimeter fence will be, as well as the height of the gate and gate. The length and number of corrugated sheets depends on these parameters.

Now install support pillars, which can be metal pipes that have a diameter of at least 80 millimeters. The side of the post that is directed upwards must be welded so that moisture does not get inside the pipe.

To place the poles, pits should be dug close to 1-1.5 meters deep and 1.5 meters wide. Make the foundation according to the technology described above. When it hardens, you can proceed with the installation of the transverse steel profile, on which the corrugated board should be fixed.

As a profile, take a profiled pipe, which has a cross section of 40 by 25 millimeters. Determine the number of pipes based on the height of the fence. If the height of the fence is up to 1.7 meters, then two rows of pipes are enough, which are fixed in parallel and installed at a distance of 30-40 centimeters. If the height of the fence is 1.7 - 2 meters, then you need to install pipes in three rows.

Fix the profile and support posts by electric welding. Then coat them with a primer to protect against corrosion. At the final stage, sheets of corrugated board should be fixed to the frame. This material is usually fastened with self-tapping screws at a distance of 50 centimeters. Neighboring sheets are usually joined together with an overlap.

When you install a corrugated fence in your country house with your own hands, do not forget to wear gloves, because you can get hurt on the sharp edges of the material. If during installation there are scratches on the corrugated board, it is worth using cans of paint to eliminate them. To achieve a better aesthetic appearance, it is possible to close the supporting pillars with brick or stone cladding, on this the installation of corrugated fences can be considered complete.

Chain link fence

As a sheathing for fences in a summer cottage, the chain-link mesh remains unrivaled in its popularity, because it meets all the requirements for reliability, light transmission and service life.

Types of chain-link mesh

Today, the following types of metal mesh are offered on the market: non-galvanized, galvanized and plastic-coated chain-link mesh. The first solution immediately disappears, because the time of its useful operation is minimal due to the lack of a protective coating against corrosion.

The chain-link mesh, which is lined with PVC, is primarily intended for building fences in warm climatic zones and on the coast of the seas, since plastic provides good protection against atmospheric moisture, but does not withstand seasonal changes in low and high temperature. The optimal solution is still galvanized mesh.

Netting installation

Arrangement of a fence from a chain-link mesh begins with marking the position of the posts - intermediate and tension. The first columns are usually installed in increments of 3 meters, the second - after 9 meters. Use metal profiled racks as pillars, pipes that have a diameter of 60 millimeters or more and corners of 50 millimeters or more are suitable.

Under the intermediate pillars in the soil, use a drill to drill holes up to 40 centimeters deep, under the tension pillars you need a hole 60 centimeters deep. On clays and loams, concreting pillars is meaningless, because heaving soil is able to push the base out of concrete along with the pillar in cold weather. If the soil is light loam or sandstone, then the bases of the pillars can be concreted.

After installing the tension poles in place in the corners of the future fence, connect them to the adjacent poles with supports from the metal corner with bolts or welding. To attach the chain-link mesh, it is enough to have poles that are set at a 3-meter distance. In this case, the canvas will not sag.

However, such a fence is not reliable, because it is easy to lift the lower part of the skin and penetrate into the fenced suburban area. Therefore, a wire rod with a diameter of 3 mm is needed, which should be passed through the grid cells at three horizontal levels. To stretch the wire rod between the posts, drill three through holes in each of them.

Proceed to fixing the mesh on the posts - place it vertically near the support post and make sure that the bent ends of the lines are located at the top of the roll. Hook the top line of the net to the top of the post and move to the next post, gradually unwinding the roll. Having passed the wire rod through the chain-link mesh between adjacent posts, insert its ends into the prepared holes, pulling the wire and fixing it on the posts with tension bolts.

Slab fence

The slab is essentially a waste at any sawmill, which looks like shavings with wood chips. As a result, we can note the low cost per cubic meter of slab. If you are interested in which fence to put in the country so that it best emphasizes your frame house, choose a slab fence. On the one hand, this material is outwardly unsightly, but, nevertheless, it retains all the attractiveness of wood, which allows you to create both a cheap and pretty country fence.

Preparatory work

It is customary to start work on creating a fence with the debarking of a croaker - if you leave the bark, the structure will be hit by a bark beetle and will collapse soon. Removing the bark is a difficult task that requires the use of a special tool - a flat shovel with a sharp blade, a small carpenter's ax and a scraper. After removing the bark from the croaker, you need to sand its surface and cover it with several layers of antiseptic.

Support poles for fencing from slabs can be wooden and metal. Under the metal racks, a pipe is suitable, which has a diameter of 76 millimeters and a wall thickness of 3.5 millimeters, with welded plates that serve to fasten horizontal wooden girders.

Wooden fence posts are made of oak, pine or larch - the diameter of the trunk is 20 centimeters, the length is 2.3 meters. The side of the pillars that will be placed in the ground is covered in several layers with Kuzbass varnish or hot resin. If you plan to carry out runs from the slab, then make a distance of 2-2.5 meters between the fence supports.

Fence sheathing with slab

On loamy soil, metal and wooden poles are simply driven into the ground without additional strengthening measures; at the places of their installation, it is only necessary to drill holes with a drill and hammer the poles with a sledgehammer.

Chernozem and sandy soils require considerable effort - under each pillar you need to dig a hole 60 centimeters deep, 2 times wider than the pillar. Then pour 10 centimeters of gravel at the bottom of the pit, tamp it down, put a pole in its center, pour gravel around the perimeter, check building level and plumb the vertical position of the post and pack the gravel firmly after the post is set.

Sheathing the fence with a slab is performed vertically or horizontally. In the first case, you need to attach a beam 50 by 30 millimeters on both sides to the support pillars and overlap the slab on self-tapping screws or nails - it will not work to fit the slabs end-to-end.

For the vertical sheathing of the country fence, the slab must be cut lengthwise, the sawn slab should be fixed to the girders with the convex side inward, leaving gaps of 40-50 millimeters between it, then closed with a slab, which is placed outward with the convex side. For a longer useful life, the finished slab fence should be painted or varnished, the ends of the pillars should be closed with metal or plastic cones - it will last about 10 years as a country fence.

Wattle as a country fence

Compared to other fences, wattle material is almost cost-free - it's cheaper just to do without a fence at all. However, such a fence will last no more than 3-4 years and the owners will only be provided with a decorative fence, which is unlikely to be able to resist burglary.

Procurement of material

The design of the wattle fence is no different from the installation of other types of fences - you need to make a foundation, you will need metal and wooden supports, and flexible rods for sheathing. Wooden racks are made of pine, and walnut and willow branches are best suited for sheathing, in the absence of which it is worth using branches of aspen, alder or birch.

It was customary to prepare rods for wattle sheathing in the early spring time or late autumn. To get started, watch a video about fences for a summer residence. Choose even and straight rods that have a thickness at the cut from the trunk of at least 30 millimeters and a length of 1.5 meters or more. Before harvesting, you need to check the branches of a bush or tree for a break by cutting off one twig and examining its cut.

If the core of the branch is large and has a reddish-brown tint, such rods are not suitable for sheathing, because they will break during installation. Therefore, you need to move on to the next tree and evaluate the core of the branches cut from it. The core should be barely visible. Having found the material that is suitable for creating wattle, cut the branches of the desired diameter and length, which are free of damage, knots and growths.

Dry the cut rods for a couple of hours, then remove the bark from them, after soaking them in water. For soaking, tie the rods into a bundle with a rope and immerse in water, placing a load on top. The soaking time is 7-14 days. Use a special tool to debark the rods. After removing the bark, sort the rods by length and thickness, then you can begin to arrange the fence.

Building a wattle fence in the country

Usually the distance between the supports is 350 millimeters or more. If for this you plan to use metal racks, then feel free to hammer them in pre-marked places. If the supports are wooden, then the stakes themselves should be prepared: sharpen the lower part of the stakes, which are intended for wattle supports, coat with heated resin in a segment that slightly exceeds the depth to which the supports will be driven into the ground.

A rubber or wooden mallet is required to drive in wooden supports and place sheathing rods between them, because a metal hammer can break wood. The supports that are placed along the edges of the wattle fence must be set at a not too great distance from the racks that are located nearby.

Before weaving, soak the rods for several days, they will become more flexible. To attach the branches, prepare annealed wire and copper. It is customary to weave from the bottom up - press right hand butt of the first rod to the extreme pillar of the support, circle the rod along the second pillar with your left hand and bring it out behind the third one.

Lead the next branch behind the first support with the tip, hold it with your right hand, circle the second rack with your left hand and bring it to the third. The alternation of tops and butts will reduce the presence of gaps between the branches and avoid the slope of the rods, which are already intertwined, to one side of the fence.

So that when weaving the rods fit closer to each other, they are knocked down with a mallet. Fasten the ends of the rods to the uprights with annealed wire. To protect the ends of the support from getting wet during rain, equip them with galvanized caps or put clay caps on them.

Decorating a blind fence

Often, the owners of private houses and summer residents have a question - how to decorate a fence for a summer residence. Indeed, looking at a flat plane of a large area near your country house not too interesting. Sometimes our fences are very long, and such blank walls do not decorate the space.

The first thing that comes to mind is closing a blind fence with climbing plants or shrubs, the use of tricks vertical gardening. Choose actinidia, girlish grapes or scented hops for this purpose. You can also plant annuals that curl along wire or ropes that are pre-stretched vertically.

Painting and painting is another option for decorating the fence. Also, on a blank fence, you can hang a planter with ampelous plants - petunias and pelargoniums. These undemanding plants can bloom almost all summer! Deaf fences will serve good service and in the construction of the gazebo, because you already have one wall, you need two more supports, then you can proceed to the roof.

Along the fence of the summer cottage, you can make several flower beds raised above the ground. This technique can visually break a long fence into several parts, which will no longer look so monotonous. Plant tall flowers and shrubs with bright foliage in raised beds. If you prefer conifers, then remember that they are sensitive to the bright spring sun.

The construction of the fence allows the owner and his family to hide from prying eyes, as well as protect their summer cottage. Next to a residential building, which looks beautiful, any fence will look good, and if you make the building yourself, it's even better. Modern technologies help in the aesthetic possibility of erecting a fence, which can be made from almost any durable material - brick, corrugated board, mesh, plants. The fence can be low, high, medium, exactly as you see it in your summer cottage.