How best to make an extension. An extension from a bar to a house: features and methods of implementation. Frame extensions to the house - an excellent solution for houses with a small living space

Today we have not an ordinary homemade product, but a very complex project: we will tell you how, with the help of direct hands, you can make an extension to the house yourself!

First of all, construction begins with a floor plan. Having calculated the required area, I marked the ground with a size of 3 m by 5 m and dug a trench under the strip foundation 50 cm deep and 40 cm wide. Then I laid a bunch of reinforcing bars and welded brackets to the bars. Further in the article there will be a description and photos for which I made these staples. I don’t even want to remember the process of manually mixing concrete with a shovel and pouring it)) I’ll just say one thing: it would be better if I called a mixer with ready-made concrete and poured it))). Having exposed the formwork from the boards, I brought the foundation 20 cm above ground level and leveled it. M-400 cement was mixed with sand screening in a ratio of 1 to 3. The strength result was impressive.
After the concrete hardened, I started pouring a concrete podium for installing a gas boiler measuring 1m by 1m, laying it in two places with a grid and setting up the formwork.

By pouring the staples protruding from the foundation with concrete, I got pillows for laying floor timber (lag) on ​​them. I needed the staples to avoid the pillows falling into the ground and, as a result, the floors being skewed. I arranged them in accordance with the recommendations for installing the floor. That is, at a certain distance from each other and strictly according to the level.

This completed the foundation work. Then he started building walls. First of all, he made a waterproofing of the wall material from the foundation by spreading the roofing material over the entire area. After all, concrete conducts moisture very well and if moisture insulation is not made, then mold may appear on the walls, the walls themselves may crack.
My next step was marking for the wall itself. The distances of the sides from the wall to the opposite wall did not differ, and the diagonals of the corners were the same. Having outlined the corners, I started laying foam blocks measuring 20x40x60 cm.

The plans included exterior wall decoration with siding, so I set up the block with a beacon rail and a corner from the siding in such a way that after finishing the extension siding would not “dance” from the siding of the house. To bind the blocks together, a mixture of cement and sand was used in a ratio of 1 to 3. Special mixtures and glue are also sold. Before laying on the mortar, the blocks were wetted with water. This greatly facilitates the laying process. With a rubber mallet, the blocks were seated in place.

Any masonry is erected from corners, so I was no exception and acted exactly with the recommendations, adjusted for doorways. To obtain blocks of shorter length, an old hacksaw was used) She did an excellent job with her work. But on sale there are special saws a.


To connect the walls with the main house, I made T-shaped brackets from reinforcement and, having drilled a wall, drove them in with the expectation that they would fall into the seam between the blocks.
He erected walls taking into account window and door openings using a construction level one and a half meters long and a plumb line. Those. blocks were stacked strictly vertically and horizontally. This is especially important for door and window openings. The thickness of the seam can adjust the height of the blocks relative to each other.


When the height of the walls reached the required level, U-shaped channels were made from a metal corner measuring 5 cm by 10 cm for laying blocks over door and window openings. The length of each was the sum of the length of the opening plus 40 or 60 cm for laying on the wall. To do this, put the corners on the block with the long side to each other and welded them together using a welding machine and fittings to obtain a gap between them. The gap is needed for screwing self-tapping screws into blocks during the installation of doors and windows.



Then I simply put the channels on the blocks and screwed them with self-tapping screws for complete fixation. It would be possible to turn them over differently and put the blocks on top, but I put a board into them from the bottom for attaching window frames and doors.


Having laid the foam blocks on top of the channels, I sawed a beam of 100x150 cm and laid it out on top. I screwed it to the foam blocks with 200 mm self-tapping screws and fastened the timber together with reinforced corners. It is necessary for ceiling beams and truss systems.



Having screwed a bar 50x75 mm to the wall of the house. I got the support for the ceiling beams. Important!!! For each roof, the thickness of the beams and rafters for the roof, as well as the distance between them, is calculated individually. Beams 50x75 mm. screwed to the beam corners.

Since the height of the extension was the same as the level of the house, after installing the beams, I had to remove part of the slate above the house to get a roof slope over the extension. After that, the rafters were assembled. For fixing the rafters, 250 mm nails were used.

He laid a crate of boards measuring 25 mm by 150 mm on the rafters, laid heat and vapor barrier on the rafters and proceeded to laying the metal tile.

The metal tile was bought almost from the factory and had the length I needed. It did not even have to be cut or adjusted to each other in length. After laying out the sheets on the roof and slipping them under the old slate, I aligned them with each other and the walls. After fastening, I cut off the excess parts of the crate.

He laid the logs on pillows, laid the floors from a board 40 mm thick.
The doors were installed next.

Such projects are used to increase living space, improve the appearance and expand the basic functionality of the building. At the same time, it is extremely important to study carefully what a high-quality extension to a wooden house is. Projects should be designed taking into account the complexity of their implementation. To do this, you will have to familiarize yourself with the features of building technologies. With the help of this article, making the right decision will be much easier. Go!

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Extension to the house: options, photos of successful projects, formulation of general requirements

This photo clearly explains the conventionality of the name. A large extension to a wooden house can significantly improve the original technical and aesthetic characteristics. The main thing is that there are enough sizes for large-scale plans. Of course, we must not forget about the financial and time components of the project.

It should be remembered! It is better to complete the construction of such structures in one warm season. Otherwise, there will be additional costs for winter conservation. Accurate planning will help save money in several stages. In particular, bulk purchases of the necessary basic and finishing materials will be useful.

To build an extension to your own hands, you need to realistically assess your own strengths. The most complex work operations can be entrusted to specialized specialists. But even in this case, your own knowledge will be useful for careful control of the performers.

Note! It is better to hire highly qualified professionals. Slave labor was abolished, among other reasons, due to insufficient efficiency. The involvement of relatives and other dubious assistants may be supplemented by unforeseen additional costs of materials, time and money.

In any case, the target task should be correctly formulated in order to accurately create a set of design documentation. The projects of extensions to the house discussed below will help you make the right decision. In a detailed study, pay attention to the important nuances for yourself. Remember that these examples can be used in various combinations to successfully meet individual needs.

A universal solution to various problems with the extension of a veranda to a wooden house

How to make an extension of the garage to the house: features of technical premises

Appropriate layers are best placed outside. This prevents the dew point from moving towards the room, prevents moisture from penetrating into the walls. In such places it is better to use foamed polymer plates, which do not need to be additionally protected from water.

The following table provides data that will help you make the correct calculation, taking into account the temperature conditions in a particular region:

Use this information when choosing materials. The final cost of the project depends on many factors. Sometimes it is more profitable to make a large initial investment, but reduce operating costs.

Such solutions are used at high groundwater levels and on weak soils, if significant loads are expected. A rigid connection with the main foundation is not made.

The video below shows how to pour the foundation for an extension to the house:

Similar materials are not difficult to find when choosing a different technology.

How to make an extension roof without mistakes

In this case, the supports of the additional part of the structure perform the main load-bearing functions. This example shows a slight angle of inclination of the slopes. This means that in winter you will have to take into account the significant weight of the snow cover. Appropriate loads must be taken into account when calculating the truss structure, during the selection of materials for the surface.

Important! The above examples can be applied in practice if a rigid connection of the foundations is provided. Otherwise, the roof of the extension to the wooden house is made independent of the main structure.

Do-it-yourself construction of an extension to the house: step-by-step instructions with important notes

A photo	How to attach an extension to the house. Main stages of work with comments
	The basis of the project is an old house with a slate roof. The entrance part consisted of a "waiting room", which had dubious aesthetic and insufficient insulating characteristics.
	After inspecting the object, it was decided to build an extension to the wooden house using frame technology. For this lightweight one-story structure, the load capacity of the strip foundation is enough.
	In accordance with the plan, they dig a trench, install it from boards. In the upper part, transverse jumpers (1) are installed to maintain the integrity of the structure after pouring
	Installed inside (diameter 8-12 mm). To fasten the rods, you can use wire, or special plastic clamps.
	After pouring the building mixture, protruding parts (M12) should remain on the surface. They are useful for a rigid connection with the walls of an extension to a wooden house.
		After the mixture has completely solidified, the formwork is carefully removed. The exact time depends on the external temperature conditions, the percentage and parameters of the components.
	Please note that at the stage of preparation for pouring, special pipes are installed for the subsequent laying of electrical cables, plumbing, and other engineering networks. In this project, holes were made in all the walls of the foundation for the space under the wooden floor.
	Not only the contour is concreted, but also separate sites for the installation of supports, a fireplace, and other heavy equipment. Apply a similar technology with reinforcement.
	Support boards are installed through a layer of roofing material on a strip foundation. Their reliable fixation is provided by anchors. Next - mount the ribs of the transverse lags.
plywood	The frame of the walls is successively installed. Temporary supports are used to maintain the vertical position of these elements.
	Here, the walls are installed on all sides, which creates a closed loop of a full-fledged living space.
	At the next stage, the truss structure is installed. The photo shows that the author delayed the implementation of the project, so the installation had to be postponed for the winter. In this case, we are talking only about unfavorable conditions for performing work operations. "Wet" technological processes were completed on time, in the warm season.

Here it is told about how to make an extension to the house using a frame structure. When using other technologies, the appropriate instructions must be used. Do not forget to make the necessary changes when increasing the loads on the foundation.

The choice of the construction team and the secrets of strict control

For a better orientation in this segment of the service market, below are extensions to a wooden house with prices and general characteristics:

If you are offered to build an extension to the house inexpensively, check carefully the list of materials and work. To check, use your own list of mandatory activities, which can be compiled based on the materials in this article. Specify the cost of delivery, installation, finishing, garbage disposal. This approach will eliminate unpleasant surprises. You need to study the text of the contract in advance. If you have any questions, please consult with an experienced lawyer.

Successful examples of extensions to the house: verandas and terraces, photos and comments

A thorough overall analysis of the situation will help you make the right decision. Eliminate errors based on the incorrect statement "Money is everything!". The real benefits are received by the person who makes his “little gray cells” work.

Even in the absence of funding problems, thematic knowledge will be useful. They will help:

• choose the right project;
• formulate terms of reference;
• find the best basic and finishing materials;
• supervise work;
• justify the need to correct deficiencies.

The information in this article will be useful for performing individual operations or the entire project on your own. Within the framework of one publication, it is impossible to foresee all the problems that are encountered in practice. Ask additional questions in the comments. Communicate with like-minded people, experienced craftsmen and authors of implemented ideas. This will simplify the construction of a high-quality extension to a wooden house.

The need for an extension to the house arises in case of a lack of usable area of ​​​​the building or to increase the comfort of living. An extension to a brick house can serve as a gazebo or terrace, while at the same time assuming a lot of convenient solutions. And a small insulated building in the cold season acts as a kind of vestibule that prevents the penetration of cold into the living quarters. Many are beginning to think about how to make an extension to a brick house with their own hands.

The design of a house adjoining building begins with determining its size and location. Usually the veranda adjoins the front door of the house, thereby being to some extent its continuation. However, an extension can also be erected against a blank wall, acting as an independent separate building.

In order not to bother with calculations, you can rely on already known data - for a small family, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe object is approximately 12 square meters. m. Everything else depends on the configuration of the house itself and the imagination of its owner.

Before starting the marking, the land plot is prepared - it is cleaned of grass, possible debris, it is recommended to remove a small layer of soil over the entire area. The territory is marked for the foundation, which can be tape or columnar, pegs are driven in at the corners of the building under construction, between which a building cord is pulled.

Strip foundation

The trench for the strip foundation is carried out along the width of the bearing walls or 5-10 wider. To avoid seepage of concrete into the ground, formwork is installed inside the trench from unnecessary material, which is “buried” in the ground.

Above the pit, a formwork of even boards is also installed and leveled in a horizontal plane with a level or hydraulic level.

The height of the formwork above the ground depends on your idea and lies in the range of 10-30 cm. If it is decided to lay the first rows of red brick in the form of a plinth, then the height of the boards can be minimized or completely dispensed with the upper formwork.

Expert opinion

Sergey Yurievich

Construction of houses, outbuildings, terraces and verandas.

A reinforcing belt is laid in the trench, which, ideally, is pre-knitted on the surface. Soft knitting wire is used, the reinforcement spacing is 15–25 cm.

After the frame is formed, the prepared structure is poured with concrete. For a reliable and strong base, the solution is prepared in the proportion: 1 part of cement, 3 parts of sand, 4 parts of crushed stone.

It is poured in layers, each next layer is rammed with a metal or wooden rod (rod).

The foundation is left alone for 1 week in the warm season, and from 3 to 6 weeks in the cold. If the work is carried out in the summer, then the concrete base is poured with water 2-3 times a day to provide for the appearance of cracks.

Pillar foundation for an extension to a brick house

A simple solution for a small building is to use a columnar foundation. It implies the installation of pillars in the ground in qualitylower frame, on which the main structure will be installed. As columns use:

• metal pipes;
• asbestos pipes;
• logs.

Regardless of the material chosen, markings for future bases are performed at the corners of the foundation and between them, if the area allows. The distance between adjacent supports is 1.5 to 2 m.

The technology of erecting a columnar foundation

1. Pillows of sand 10 cm high are poured into the prepared pits and carefully tamped.
2. Install corner posts in a strictly vertical position. To do this, you can use the usual building level. The distance between the lower part of the rod and the soil is covered with coarse material - rubble, broken bricks, large stones.
3. A cord is pulled between the pillars, along which the remaining (intermediate) pillars are fixed in a similar way.
4. The protruding rods are cut from above in a flat horizontal plane at a distance of 30-50 cm from the surface of the site. The operation is conveniently carried out using a hydraulic level or level. At the same time, on each pillar they make the so-called "zero mark", on the basis of which subsequent calculations and trimming are performed.
5. Pillars made of pipes are completely poured with concrete.

Construction of extension walls

The home master, at his discretion, selects wall material. It can be red or white brick, shell rock, expanded clay concrete or aerated concrete blocks. In one case or another, the technology of erection to the house and supporting structures is unchanged.

1. A waterproofing material (roofing material) is laid on the surface of the foundation.
2. Check the evenness of the surface. If necessary, it is leveled with a conventional cement-sand mortar.
3. Brick construction begins with the erection of the corner parts of the wall in one or two rows. In this case, the marking is done in such a way that the angles between the stretched cord are 90 ° everywhere. Corner blocks must be built perfectly, the evenness of the entire structure depends on them.
4. A cord is stretched between the corner "columns", along the line of which the intermediate parts of the wall structure are erected.
5. The extension being built is periodically “connected” with the main brick building. To do this, every 3-4 rows of masonry in the walls of the house, two holes are drilled with a perforator according to the level of the lined row. The diameter of the holes is selected in such a way that 30–50 cm metal rods (reinforcement or wire rod) can be driven into it with force. Thus, the walls of the veranda being built are combined with the wall of a residential building.
6. When laying the rows, you should periodically check their horizontality so that the upper final row is laid out strictly parallel to the horizon line.

Openings for windows and doors are made using a level, the upper lintel is made using a horizontally laid or steel square profile.

How to make an extension roof with your own hands

Shed roof on conventional rafters is the easiest installation option. In this case, the roofing material can be:

• slate;
• polypropylene sheets;
• double-glazed windows;
• steel sheets with sun-repellent coated.

The installation of the supporting frame is performed as follows:

1. First, the necessary calculations and drawings are performed, which determine the angle of inclination of the roof (5-10 °), the location of the rafters.
2. The timber prepared and cut to size is treated with an antiseptic and waterproofing agents.
3. The base of the wooden frame is attached to the top row of the extension. The rafter beam prepared for these purposes is marked out every 60-90 cm and fixed with anchors so that they enter the load-bearing wall by at least 50 cm. Roof truss beams are placed and fixed parallel to each other on the base every meter under the building cord . The wooden frame crate is ready.
4. The top layer of bituminous slate or other material is attached to a wooden crate according to the instructions issued by the hardware store. For slate, special slate nails with rubber seals are used to prevent moisture from entering under the roof.

transparent roof

The polycarbonate roof has some features:

1. Sheet material is attached to profiles purchased in the store: end, corner, P - and H-shaped.
2. For fastening the canvases, galvanized self-tapping screws 40–50 cm are used, equipped with thermal washers or conventional rubber seals.
3. Sheets are cut in such a way that they are joined in the middle of the rafters with an overlap of 10-15 mm. The place of such an overlap at the end of the work is hidden under a protective bar.
4. The outer edges of polycarbonate are equipped with H-profiles.
5. Sealing of joints and ends is carried out by means of finely porous flexible tapes.

The arrangement of the roof is carried out in such a way that the adjacent parts of the coating fit snugly against the wall of the house or even go under its roof. This is the only way to prevent drafts and moisture from entering the room. If desired, the roof can be made flat, pitched, arched, domed.

Roof insulation

If the extension to the brick house will be actively used in the cold season, it is recommended to insulate the roof. Mineral wool sheets are used as heat-insulating materials, which are fastened between the batten boards (lags). Modern technologies offer a new tool - sprayed polyurethane insulation, a 5-cm layer of which will reliably protect the room from heat loss through the roof.

Completion of works

At the end of the main work, the structure is inspected for the presence of possible unfilled spaces between the roof and walls, which are additionally sealed with mineral wool, mortar.

20 cm to the specified width around the entire perimeter of the veranda, install a wooden formwork 7–10 cm high with a slight slope from the wall along the outer edge of the prepared site.

To prevent flaking of the concrete platform from the extension, it is recommended to "tie" it with the main structure is a reinforcing single-layer cage. To do this, holes are drilled from the bottom of the building according to the size of the reinforcement in increments of 20-25 cm, where metal rods of a given length are hammered. The finished structure is poured with concrete mortar and allowed to “settle” for 3-5 days.

Many owners of country houses dream of making their housing more spacious, and therefore they begin to plan to expand the area by creating an extension. Today, there are many ways to solve this problem. The fastest and most budget option is a frame extension. Frame construction is preferred by those who appreciate efficiency, comfort and convenience. It is best to make such an extension to a wooden house.

Features of modern frame extensions

Already from the name of the structure it is clear that this extension assumes the presence of a frame, that is, a kind of supporting skeleton. This frame is made from cut timber. Such elements of the future construction as corner posts and the lower trim of the building are made from the same material. Horizontal jumpers and ordinary racks are made of boards.

In addition, with the help of boards, future door and window openings of the room are indicated. The thickness of the racks, as a rule, is made equal to the intended heat-insulating layer, and the step between the racks is selected along the width of the insulation.

For example, if your house is located in central Russia, it is best to use 15 cm thick material for insulation. Therefore, lumber for upcoming work will need to be used from the 150 line (150, 100, 50 and 40). The pitch of the racks for the considered frame extension will be 59 cm, because. the width of the sheet of thermal insulation material is 60 cm.

The step of the horizontal jumpers of the future frame of the structure will be 99 cm (you need to be guided by the fact that the height of the sheet of heat-insulating material is 100 cm). These simple and understandable calculations as an example can be used to plan a future frame extension to a house.

It is best to assemble the frame using hardware fasteners - this is the most common option.

Such fasteners are very convenient and reliable in operation. They are affordable.

After the supporting skeleton of the future extension is assembled, it is necessary to carry out the insulation of the structure. At the same time, it is necessary to remember about such intermediate operations as hydro- and vapor barrier of the attached premises. The next step in the work, as a rule, is the rough sheathing of the insulated frame. For this, sheets of DSP, LSU and OSB are used.

After that, the final finishing of the new premises is carried out. The result is a multi-layer construction, which, due to its multi-layer structure, will become strong enough and acquire excellent characteristics in terms of heat saving and sound insulation.

Such work is relatively inexpensive, and for those who want to get a reliable addition to the house without significant damage to the budget, this option will be the best. Owners can save money not only on various building materials, but also on the services of skilled workers. Having at least basic knowledge, you can build a frame extension with your own hands. All of the above steps will be discussed in more detail in the following sections.

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The main features of the frame extension

Currently, many different structures are being built using frame technologies around the world. So, in many European countries, this technology is confidently leading. Using frame technology, not only extensions to existing buildings are being built, but also low-rise private houses.

Works on frame technology can be carried out in several variants at once: these are, in particular, frame-frame and frame-panel construction.

As for frame-panel construction, the future extension to the finished building will be built from prefabricated panels that have built-in openings for doors and windows. It will only be necessary to assemble the panel data into a single whole and fix them correctly - it is somewhat reminiscent of a regular constructor, only on a large scale.

Of course, such panels are made to order, at special enterprises. The size of the panels must necessarily match the dimensions of the foundation. If it is planned to build a more complex structure, a frame-frame construction technology is used. It is understood that in this case, the main assembly and adjustment of all elements is not carried out in advance, but directly during and at the construction site.

It is imperative to emphasize the point that in terms of their performance, modern frame extensions, and even entire houses built using this technology, are absolutely in no way inferior to other construction options, and in some moments even surpass them. By the way, it is believed that such extensions are one of the oldest human experiences in construction (for example, such houses were built by the Indians).

Among the undoubted advantages of the frame extension to the house, one can note its high thermal insulation characteristics. Such a room can quickly warm up. Agree, this is a significant advantage, especially if you like to spend time in the country in the winter.

As for the finishing of frame outbuildings, there are no problems here. you will be able to complete all finishing work immediately after the completion of the construction of the structure. There is no need for a break for shrinkage, in the case of it is excluded. The addition of a frame structure to the house can be made not only in the warm season, but also in any other weather, and quickly enough.

It is impossible not to mention that one of the most important aspects of the use of frame technologies is the so-called. thermos effect. Heat in such structures will be stored up to 5-7 times longer, therefore, you will have the opportunity to further save on heating. As a result, the savings, according to the reviews of the owners, are quite significant.

If necessary, you can continue to expand the site without any problems and attach various additional elements to the finished frame structure.

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Step-by-step instructions for building a frame extension

Prepare tools and materials for work:

• hot bitumen;
• crushed stone or gravel;
• concrete mixture;
• broken brick;
• trimmed boards for crates;
• building level;
• rails for roofing on the slope surface;
• steel corner;
• cord;
• electric drill;
• grinder;
• electric saw;
• electric screwdriver;
• a hammer;
• shovel;
• axe;
• sledgehammer;
• screws;
• nails;
• wooden wedges;
• shields made of wood;
• dry tow;
• plaster mortar.

Any construction begins with land planning, drafting and preliminary preparation for the proper organization of work.

The first stage is the pouring of the tape concrete base. The foundation is created in 4 stages:

• sand and gravel pillow;
• reinforcement cage;
• formwork installation;
• pouring concrete mix.

Under the floor logs, you need to install supports at a distance of about 130-150 cm. The logs are best placed at a distance of about 90 cm from each other. If such supports were not created during the construction of the main foundation, then be sure to do them. To the same depth to avoid seasonal vertical movements.

Before pouring concrete into the pits, a layer of sand of at least 10 cm must be poured on their bottom. After that, rubemast or roofing material for waterproofing is laid in 2 layers on all surfaces of the base. This will prevent the wood frame from rotting.

After that, around the entire perimeter of the extension, it is necessary to lay a strapping beam with a width of 150 mm. This size is the best. You can also take a thicker beam, but in no case thinner, otherwise it will be quite cool in winter.

The lower beam must be treated with an antiseptic. If you are on a budget, you can use used car oil. It is drained anyway, and in its properties it surpasses many modern impregnations.

Fastening in the corners is done half a tree, otherwise in the paw. After that, the strapping is leveled.

The next step is to install corner posts. It is best to make them from a bar 150x150 mm, however, it can also be made from edged boards 100 and 150 mm wide and 50 mm thick. Everything is set strictly vertically according to the level or plumb. Racks are fixed with technological braces from improvised boards.

Those racks that will be installed next to the wall of the house should be slightly lower than the overhang of the roof of the building, so that in the future the roof of the annex can be brought in with an apron from a galvanized steel strip under the overhang. The outer racks of the annex must necessarily be lower than those mentioned. And the shorter they are, the better rainwater will drain from the roof of the structure and snow will be blown away.

The slope should be about 1 m per 5 m of the extension. Can be more. In view of this, the height of the outer racks is regulated at 2 m or a little more. This is necessary so that after filing the ceiling and flooring, you do not cling to the ceiling with your head. After the racks are installed, it is necessary to throw a ceiling strapping crown over their top, which is best made from a 150x50 edged board.

At the next stage, additional racks are installed around the entire perimeter of the frame extension. As a rule, they are installed at a distance of about 1 m. More precisely, at least every 90 cm, as a maximum - every 150 cm. and windows that will be mounted in the extension.

After completing the indicated work, it is necessary to strengthen the corner posts with inclined braces, which are installed at an angle of about 45 °. After that, the technological braces are removed from the edged board. Next, the rafter boards are laid on the upper strapping crown. The boards are laid on edge. Issue for the crown - 30 cm (more possible). Edged boards of the crate are laid on the rafters. Board thickness - 25-35 mm.

On the boards of the crate, it is necessary to lay glassine in 1 layer with an overlap at the edges of 5-7 cm. It will act as a safety layer against moisture if the main roofing material leaks.

Building a frame extension to a private house is a quick and economical way to increase the area of ​​\u200b\u200byour home. Nowadays, structures of this type are beginning to be in great demand, since their construction does not require special skills, and building materials can be purchased at any building materials store. If you strictly adhere to the construction technology and correctly calculate each component of the extension, then it will serve for many years without requiring major repairs.

Peculiarities

The extension to the house has its own characteristics, which depend on its purpose, since there are different requirements for the kitchen, veranda, bathroom and additional living room. In particular, the addition of another dwelling can be compared in complexity with the construction of a small house.

There are special requirements for the foundation, thermal protection of walls, floor and ceiling. With the construction of a summer veranda it is much easier, because it is a light unheated structure, for the construction of which there is no need for a powerful foundation. In general, the construction of the terrace is limited to the construction of walls, roof and floor. Although some homeowners prefer a glass veranda. The main thing is that the extension does not stand out from the general style of the house.

Problems arise with the kitchen and bathroom, especially when the water supply system has already been connected to the house and additional communications will need to be carried out in the newly made premises. There may be problems with the heating system. You should think about communications before building the foundation, so you can save money and time in the future. At worst, you should equip or at least outline the exit points for water and heating pipes. Regardless of what will be added to the house, this process includes such standard steps as:

• design;
• building a foundation;
• construction of the wall frame and its cladding;
• roof device.

It turns out that the addition of an additional room to the house with your own hands does not differ from the construction of any other building. And the strength of the entire structure will be determined by the quality of the foundation.

Projects

Work on the arrangement of additional premises in the form of an extension includes the design procedure, the choice of materials, the preparation of estimates, the distribution of communications, the device for communication with the house, and the arrangement of space.

The creation of a project and drawing, as well as the calculation of an extension to any house (old or newly built, log, country, panel, brick, wooden and others) begins after the type of structure and dimensions are determined.

In turn, when choosing an additional room, you can opt for such as: veranda, terrace, summer kitchen, living space, garage, porch, bay window, sheds. At the same time, it is important to provide for the condition of the adjacent walls and, if necessary, replace the rotten sections. It is necessary to adhere to a single style.

The dimensions of the extension from the frame should not exceed 2/3 of the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe house. For example, the area of ​​​​the veranda, as a rule, is approximately 20% of the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe house. In this case, the main thing is not to disturb the exterior of the facade. To carry out changes in the structure of a residential building, permission from the Committee for Architecture and Urban Planning is required. All necessary drawings are prepared.

It is problematic to use ready-made standard projects, since they need to be tied to the existing house structure and the state of the soil. They are taken as a basis, making changes of varying degrees of complexity depending on the needs of the customer, as a result, an extraordinary solution can be obtained.

DIY construction

The construction of a frame extension can be implemented by yourself, the main thing is to follow the advice of professionals in this matter. After the detailed project of the future construction is ready, you can start construction. This process includes several important steps, which will help step-by-step instructions.

Site preparation and foundation pouring

Before building the frame, you need a foundation. It can be lightweight, columnar or strip, but in most cases, a monolithic strip foundation is chosen as the base, which is the most reliable and durable.

To create a foundation, you should perform such actions as:

• area needs to be marked. In the corners of the future building, small pegs should be driven in, tying a cord (fishing line) to them. This will allow you to clearly see the outline of the future base;
• it is necessary to dig a trench (ditch). Its depth depends on the dimensions of the base of the main house. The width of the trench should be 150–170 mm larger than the future extension walls;
• it is necessary to fill the bottom with fine gravel or sand with a layer of up to 15 cm, carefully compact it;
• directly on a pillow of crushed stone or sand, it is necessary to lay a layer of waterproofing;
• on top of the waterproofing layer, it is necessary to arrange a reinforcing mesh to increase the strength of concrete;
• you need to fill the reinforcing layer by 1/3 with a concrete solution, wait until the mortar sets, and then pour more mortar by 1/2 of the ditch depth;
• formwork should be installed. As a material for creating forms for laying concrete, you can use wood, metal, plastic, or combinations thereof;
• it is necessary to pour the upper part of the foundation and allow the concrete to dry. Depending on the weather, this will take about 14 days;
• after the solution has completely dried, it is worth removing the formwork and performing external waterproofing with rubber or roofing material.

Important: the foundation of the main structure and the annex must be common, therefore, even before the stage of pouring the concrete solution, it is necessary to decide on the method of docking. If construction is carried out on unstable soils, for example, loose or clay, it is required to give some time for the foundation to shrink.

Articulation of the extension from the frame with the main structure

Regardless of the quality of the foundation, due to the difference in the magnitude of the load with which the house and the extension act on the soil, there is still a possibility that over time they will shift relative to each other. Guided by this, experts strongly do not recommend a hard way to attach an extension to the main house.

It is more rational to use an abutment similar in principle to a tongue-and-groove interface. To install it on the wall of a capital building, you need to fix two beams, and between them put a vertical beam, which is a component of the frame wall of the extension. Such a way of adjoining will create conditions for leveling mutual shifts. Of course, instead of wood, a metal frame can be used, in which case all embedded elements must also be metal. Otherwise, you need to make a bolted swivel.

wall construction

After the final leveling of the surface of the ground part, you can proceed to the construction of the walls of the frame extension. Their basis is timber bars treated with protective components.

The process of building walls is represented by the following algorithm of actions:

• you need to do the bottom trim. There are several ways to connect a beam, but more often they use a connection at an angle or use the half-board method. The voids between the beam and the plinth are sealed with polystyrene foam;
• to give the strapping additional strength, the corner joints must be fixed with anchors or dowels. To the base, the beam is fixed in pre-made holes;
• floor boards are fixed to the bottom trim in increments of 60–70 cm, it is better to fasten them with liquid nails or self-tapping screws;
• frame racks for walls must be mounted on metal corners and self-tapping screws. They must be placed at a distance slightly less than the width of the thermal insulation;
• it is desirable to construct the upper trim only after the installation of all wall racks, so that the structure by this time has sufficient rigidity. The top trim should be mounted similarly to the bottom;
• to strengthen the frame, you can put diagonal bars.

Having finished with the construction of the walls, it is necessary to install the floor lathing on the prepared logs of the lower base. For this, it is better to use ordinary boards with a height of 40 mm. The finishing floor (finishing coating) is best arranged only after wall cladding and roofing.

Important: when constructing a frame base, it is necessary to use a building level, since even a slight roll can provoke deformation of the entire structure.

Roof

Even at the stage of mounting the walls, it is necessary to lay the ceilings every 60–70 mm and fix them to the upper trim using metal corners. At the same time, you can sew up the ceiling with sheets of thick plywood or boards, which will give the frame even more rigidity. After that, a layer of insulation must be laid on the draft structure of the canvas.

If you plan to use flexible material for the roof, then another layer of sheathing must be mounted on the rafters for vapor barrier.

Warming and finishing

After installing all the elements of the frame structure, you can proceed to the insulation of the extension. As a heater, as a rule, mineral wool, polystyrene foam or ecowool are used. Insulation plates are placed in several rows between the frame supports. Particular attention must be paid to the junction points of the plates to avoid gaps. To do this, the insulation is shifted in different layers relative to each other.

In a similar way, thermal insulation is laid between the ceilings and the floor. For extensions, it is desirable to perform insulation from the outside. It does not reduce the usable area of ​​​​the room and retains heat well. As soon as the thermal insulation is laid over the entire surface of the annex, you can take up the device of vapor and moisture insulation. The material should be placed strictly with the villi towards the cladding, and with the smooth side towards the surface of the thermal insulation. To protect against winds, the extension is sheathed on the outside with a film or roofing material.

The walls of the extension must be insulated not only from the outside, but also inside. For this, a superdiffusion membrane (film), foil material and insulation are used. The superdiffusion membrane is a modern insulating "breathing" material. To save money, plastic film is used instead, however, this material accumulates moisture, as a result of which mold forms on the walls of the house.