The original chain-link fence for the suburban area. Do-it-yourself installation of a chain-link fence - step-by-step instructions

A fence is an essential element of any private property. If country houses are recommended by experts to be fenced with more reliable protective structures, then summer cottages are their practical and inexpensive options. The most suitable material for a country fence is a chain-link mesh. With its help, you can not only make it durable, but also increase the yield of the beds, since the design does not interfere with natural ventilation on the land, and also does not block the sun's access to it. To build a chain-link fence with your own hands, you do not need to be a professional. This article will reveal all the secrets of the masters in installing a practical fence without welding, and will also tell you what tools and materials you need to have to perform such work.

Features of the chain-link mesh, its advantages

Chain-link mesh is a versatile material that is indispensable in summer cottages. It has many advantages that make it even more popular among buyers. These include:

• affordable cost. Chain-link mesh is a budget option for building a fence, because not every homeowner is able to allocate a decent amount for the installation of a more expensive structure in the country;

• long service life. High-quality galvanized mesh is able to maintain its original appearance for several decades (up to 40-50 years). It does not rust, with proper use it does not deform.
• the need to use a minimum number of tools and fastening materials during the installation of the fence;

Important! You can install a chain-link fence with or without welding. Installation without welding is ideal for people who do not know how to work with such equipment.

• ease of care for the material;
• the grid does not interfere with the natural circulation of air, does not obscure the territory.

Important! A chain-link fence serves as an ideal fence not only for beds, flower beds or a vegetable garden, it is also indispensable in the process of arranging children's playgrounds, pet enclosures, etc.

Material classification

Depending on the material of manufacture, the chain-link mesh is of three types:

1. Not galvanized.
2. Galvanized.
3. Plasticized.

Non-galvanized mesh is a fairly cheap material. Of course, it is more affordable, but its long service life can be doubted, since under the action of moisture the surface rusts very quickly.

Galvanized mesh is the most popular among customers. It is a little more expensive than its non-galvanized counterpart, it does not rust, which is really very valuable.

Plasticized material is a modern option, but more expensive. In the process of its manufacture, polymers are used that properly protect the metal mesh from moisture. The plasticized grid has various color scale. Each homeowner is able to choose a material that will ideally fit the interior of the house, as well as complement it.

Instructions for craftsmen: how to make a simple chain-link fence without welding with your own hands

Making a durable and reliable chain-link fence is a fairly simple and interesting task. Its implementation does not require a large amount of professional knowledge and skills. To work, you only need tools and materials, as well as the desire of the master.

There are two ways to make a galvanized fence from a chain-link mesh:

1. With the use of a welding machine.
2. Without welding.

Since not every homeowner has a welding machine at his disposal (or does not know how to use it), we will consider the option of installing a fence without using it.

Important! Installing a fence without using welding will allow you to build a structure that will be less practical than its welded counterpart.

Tools and materials

So that the construction of the fence does not cause difficulties, you must first stock up on all the necessary tools and materials. In the process of work you will need:

• chain-link mesh (non-galvanized, galvanized or plasticized);
• support poles (wooden, metal or reinforced concrete);
• special fastening hooks;
• sand, screenings, crushed stone and cement;
• shovel;
• building level;
• mounting tape;
• hammer or drill;
• bolts, nails or screws.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a galvanized mesh fence

The simplest version of a mesh fence for a summer residence is a tension one. Its installation will not take as much time as it might seem at first glance. For the correct performance of the work, it is necessary to know and follow a clear sequence of the entire technological process.

Advice! To install a tension fence from a chain-link mesh, it is best to involve an assistant who will help you get the job done faster.

A chain-link fence is the best budget option for a summer cottage. Install such a fence with your own hands, you will appreciate its merits not only from personal experience, but you will also see it by the increased amount of crop received from the beds.

Video instruction: how to build a fence from a chain-link mesh without welding with your own hands

Chain-link fence: photo

A plot with a house without a fenced fence looks bare, and besides, it will be difficult to live in such a space. Say what you like, we have enough curious people, and it will be difficult to keep our property from the encroachments of outsiders.

For fencing houses, they usually create strong and reliable structures. There are several that have gained popularity among summer residents. However, for cottages, you can use lighter materials that do not require large expenditures. Such a structure is a chain-link fence. At the same time, you can build it yourself, without the involvement of specialists.

Steel mesh is considered an ideal option for creating a fence in the country. It has a number of undeniable advantages, such as:

• fairly low cost.

Most owners of summer cottages can afford to purchase this material;

• long operating period.

A well-protected galvanized mesh can last up to half a century. At the same time, it will not lose its presentation and fully retain all technological qualities;

• the possibility of self-assembly;
• undemanding care;
• the ability of the material to pass air.

This is very important for the plants that are on the site.

The main disadvantages of the chain-link:

Incomplete security of the site from the views of strangers. To protect your personal space, you will have to plant weaving plants along the fence;

Exposure to external noise from strong gusts of wind, as well as dust and debris;

Possibility of rust coating some types of mesh.

Types of chain-link mesh produced

Currently, our industry produces several types of mesh. Let's consider each of them in more detail.

The cheapest type is non-galvanized mesh. For all its availability, it is quite expensive, since the untreated surface needs to be protected from moisture. Such a fence quickly rusts and fails without proper care.

The most popular among owners is the galvanized chain-link mesh. It is a little more expensive, but has a protective layer, which makes the material better and more durable.

Such a fence does not require special care.

The modern plasticized material that has recently appeared on our markets, of course, loses to galvanized mesh in price, but surpasses it in quality. The polymer layer, which covers the metal during production, not only reliably protects the mesh from the effects of negative factors, but can also be painted in a variety of colors. This makes the material attractive to designers.

Types of mesh fences

Despite the simplicity of the material, its installation as a fence has several types. A chain-link fence can be:

• string tension;
• residential hinged;
• hinged on horizontal guides;
• prefabricated from sections;
• whole from sections.

The string construction is the simplest and not very reliable.

The vein-mounted type is more rigid, since the mesh fabric here is hung on strong rods or pipes. But with mechanical pressure, a large number of spans will have to be replaced than in the first case. On high-density soils, such a fence can be mounted according to a simplified version.

The design, hung along the guide rails, is more difficult to install and requires some experience. But it can be installed on not too stable soils.

The fencing of prefabricated sections is characterized by high installation costs and the complexity of the work. In addition, the design is not too strong, although it looks attractive.

One-piece sectional mesh fences are the most durable. But they are too expensive, which makes them less in demand. Plus, they can't be repaired.

Types of posts for a chain-link fence

Mesh fences are mounted on wooden, steel or asbestos-cement poles. In this regard, you should pay attention to some important points:

Cement-based products must be concreted. In addition, you can purchase ready-made poles with ready-made mounts.

The depth of the pit, which is made in order to install the fence posts from the grid, should be about a meter. This is dictated by the load that hinged canvases exert on them.

The size of the cross section of such supports depends on the type of material used and can be adjusted in each specific case.

Strengthening the supports for the fence from the chain-link on various types of soil

On low-pitched, loamy and cartilaginous soils, the supports are strengthened by dense driving or digging into the ground. In places where the level of freezing is small, partial concreting is used.

The creation of a cushion of sand and gravel, which is called butting, is done to strengthen wooden poles on any soil.
In all other cases, full concreting of the supports is used.

Installation of a chain-link fence

Supports for such a structure are buried to a shallow depth. This is due to the fact that the structure is supported by well-stretched strings and does not require additional reinforcement.

IMPORTANT: The string diameter must be greater than 4 mm. They are pulled by hand and put on mounts mounted on poles. Welding is not required for this assembly.

In order to stretch the chain-link mesh well and make a fence, you need to invite an assistant. Work should start from the corner. We fix the end of the mesh on the corner support. It is better to pre-fix a steel bar on it so that the mesh does not bend much.

Then the required amount of material is unwound and pulled onto the next support.

A small tutorial video on how to install a chain-link mesh with your own hands:

After the mesh is stretched, bars are pulled through the upper and lower horizontal perimeters through it. Later they are attached to the supports. According to this principle, all spans of the structure should be installed.

The nuances of mounting the chain-link mesh

If miscalculations are made during the installation of the fence, then all the work will have to be redone. Therefore, it is necessary to carefully carry out each item of work.
Particular attention is required in areas where there are large irregularities in the soil. If possible, they should be aligned.

But if the terrain has significant elevation differences, then you will have to divide the perimeter into segments and install support pillars on each of them. In this case, the mesh will need to be cut. The size of the pillars will also be adjusted. In the lowlands, you will install longer poles, and in the upper sections they will be much lower. After the mesh is stretched, the structure will look even.
But it is best to choose a sectional type fence in such an area.

Owners of private territories are thinking about how to make an inexpensive and reliable fence. A chain-link mesh is perfect for this. Everyone can do the installation of such a design, for this you need to have a minimum set of tools at hand.

By following the installation technology and choosing the right quality material, you can make a fence that will last about 20 years. It is important to ask what types of mesh can be found on sale today. The master needs to study the technology in detail in order to avoid mistakes.

Varieties of chain-link mesh

Before pulling the chain-link mesh on the fence, it is important to understand its varieties. This material is made from galvanized and black wire, so the quality of the products may vary. Black wire material is quite cheap, however, it is short-lived and rusts over time, which can happen after the first rain or fog, while after 4 years the material may become completely unusable.

You can extend the life of a non-galvanized chain-link by covering it with liquid rubber or paint. This must be done even before the installation of the paintings, and after that it is necessary to update the protective layer from time to time. Before stretching the chain-link mesh over the fence, you should also learn that the non-galvanized steel material is not afraid of corrosion, so it is ready to last longer. Such a mesh costs a little more, but it does not need processing.

Galvanized chain-link fences look attractive and neat. The mesh can also be classified according to the size of the cells, the height of the roll and the thickness of the wire. As for the cells, they can have dimensions that range from 10 to 65 mm, while the wire diameter varies from 1 to 5 mm. The height of the roll can be from 0.8 to 2 m. However, the most popular material is the one whose height is 1.5 m. The standard roll length is 10 m. Rolls of 20 m can be purchased on request. The material is more expensive, the smaller the cells because it increases the consumption of raw materials.

How to stretch the grid: a step by step description. Welding hooks to supports

If you have thought about the question of how to stretch the chain-link mesh on the fence, then you need to start work by welding the hooks to the supports. When the concrete has compacted, which will happen in about a week, work can continue. The mesh can be fastened with clamps or wire, but it is most convenient to use hooks.

You can find it on sale with welded hooks, but if you have a welding machine available, it will be cheaper to make them yourself. To do this, use pieces of steel rod, nails, screws or thick wire. Anything that can be welded to the pipe and bent will do. Three hooks will need to be installed on a support 2 m high. The distance from the ground of the first hook should be 15 cm. The second will be indented from the top by 10 cm, while the third is in the center.

Mesh attachment

If you are faced with the task of how to stretch the chain-link mesh on the fence, then at the next stage you should proceed with its fastening. To do this, the roll is installed near the corner support, where it is necessary to unwind the material and put it on the cell hooks. The edge of the mesh must be securely fixed. After that, the fittings are attached to the pipe and welded. When the roll is tensioned, the mesh will not sag.

When its end is fixed, the roll can be transferred to the next support, and then gently unwind it. With a ledge from the junction of the mesh with the pipe 15 cm, a steel bar is threaded into the cells. You don't need to weld it this time. It will allow you to evenly stretch the mesh.

As soon as it is put on the hook, the rod is removed, and the roll is unwound for another span, now you need to take the reinforcement again. If you are thinking about the question of how to properly stretch the netting over the fence, then the above scheme must be used until you reach the end of the fence. In order to connect two sheets, you should use the wire from the extreme vertical row.

How to eliminate sagging canvas

Even if the mesh can be stretched well, over time it may sag. Therefore, at the installation stage, it is necessary to take care of additional fixation of the chain-link between the supports. For this, 6 mm wire and a welding machine are used. If you are also among those who have thought about the question of how to stretch the chain-link mesh with your own hands, then you need to thread the wire into the second or third row of cells horizontally. The element should be located along the entire fence.

In those places where the chain-link will be adjacent to the poles, the wire must be welded. The lower edge of the chain-link is strengthened in the same way. At the final stage, the hooks must be bent. The fence canvas must be firmly fixed on the supports, while the mesh will not sag or sag.

The final stage

Once the fence is ready, you can complete the finishing touches. To do this, plastic plugs are put on the pipes, the poles are painted, and the upper antennae of the mesh are twisted into 2 turns and bent down. On this we can assume that the installation of the fence is completed.

Chain link fence device

If you are interested in a chain-link fence, then you need to know that at the first stage you should equip the sections. For this, poles are mounted. This can be done after clearing the area of ​​vegetation. The territory is leveled, the master should determine the location of the extreme supports. Pipes for them must have a larger cross section than intermediate ones. You need to deepen them more.

For intermediate supports, a profiled tube of square section with a side of 40 mm is usually used. But for corner supports, it is better to take a pipe with a cross section of 60 x 40 mm. In addition, they should be 20 cm longer. If you are faced with the task of how to properly install a chain-link fence, then you must clean the pipes from oil stains and scale, prime them and leave to dry. With the help of a hand drill, holes are made in the ground, a pillow of sand is poured onto the bottom and compacted well. Next, profile pipes are inserted, which should be leveled.

The space in the pits is filled with crushed stone, which must first be mixed with the soil. Filling should be carried out at 2/3 of the depth. The remaining space is filled with concrete mortar. The vertical of the posts at this stage must be checked again and aligned if necessary. As soon as the solution hardens, the spacers can be removed and the markings under the intermediate pillars can begin.

Installation of intermediate supports

A rope should be pulled between the corner posts, stepping back from the ground 15 cm. The line is divided into equal segments, which will correspond to the width of the span. The optimal width for the fence will be a distance of 2.5 m. If this parameter is increased, the mesh will sag.

You can find out how the correct installation is carried out, how to stretch the chain-link mesh, if you read the article. In place of the pegs that are installed at the marking stage, holes should be drilled for intermediate pillars and a pillow should be prepared for them as described above. In order to make it more convenient to control the upper edge of the supports, you can stretch a rope between the extreme posts. Now you should install the pipes, align them vertically and height, add soil and crushed stone, and pour concrete on top and level the surface.

Conclusion

A chain-link fence in a summer cottage will be the most profitable solution. Such a fence will not obscure cultivated plants. In addition, climbing over such a fence is quite difficult, which will allow you to prevent unauthorized persons from entering the territory. You can use such fences for zoning on the site. You can do the installation yourself, which will save you money.

In order to protect their possessions in a summer cottage or in the private sector, they use a fence. The construction of such a structure requires additional investment of funds and time. In order to save money, you can make a fence with your own hands. For this, a chain-link fence is the best fit.

What is a chain-link mesh

This grid was invented in the 19th century by the German bricklayer Karl Rabitz. Initially, it was used to facilitate the plastering of walls. Over time, it has found application in many industries, ranging from the construction of barriers or cages for animals and birds, and ending with the construction of mine workings in mines.

In the manufacture, low-carbon steel wire and its other types are used: stainless, aluminum, galvanized or coated with polymers. To get a chain-link mesh, a special simple machine is used, which twists the wire spiral into each other, and winds the finished product into rolls.

Advantages and disadvantages of chain-link mesh for building a fence

Advantages:

1. It allows air and sunlight to pass through, so it does not interfere with the cultivation of cultivated plants.
2. Quick and easy installation, accessible to every person who is more or less familiar with hand construction tools.
3. Since the construction of the fence is light, a reinforced foundation is not required for it.
4. Chain-link fence does not need special care.
5. Strong, reliable, inexpensive and durable material.

Flaws:

1. A chain-link fence will not hide your site or house from prying eyes, but this problem can be solved by decorating the fence with plants.
2. Does not provide soundproofing.
3. A fence made of non-galvanized mesh quickly rusts.

Types of mesh for the fence

non-galvanized

Such a grid is made of “black” wire unprotected from corrosion. It is a cheap option of all other types and requires additional processing to ensure the durability of the structure. It is used as a temporary barrier, and needs to be painted to increase its service life. The service life of an unpainted canvas is 2-3 years, but if the non-galvanized mesh is coated with paint, this will increase the service life up to 10 years.

galvanized

This type of mesh is also made of low carbon steel, but has a protective layer in the form of a zinc coating. Thanks to this, the galvanized mesh is protected from rust and will last for many years without additional processing and care.

plasticized

If a polymer is used as a protective layer, then such a chain-link mesh is called plasticized. Since dyes are used in its manufacture, it exists in different color shades and looks much more attractive than its relatives. This type of material does not need additional processing and is not afraid of various weather conditions, and a wide range of colors will provide design solutions for the construction of the fence.

Preparation for the construction of the fence, calculation of the area

In order to calculate the area for the fence, you first need to know the perimeter of the site. For example, take a plot of 10 acres in the shape of a square. Since the length of the square is equal to the width (a) and has right angles, we calculate the perimeter using the formula P = 4 x a. Since the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe site is known (1000 m 2), and the square area formula S \u003d a 2, then a \u003d 31.63 m, so the perimeter P \u003d 126.52 m. Now you can easily calculate how many materials you need. For example, chain-link mesh is sold in rolls of 10 m, so it will need 12 whole rolls plus a length of 6.5 m.

The chain-link mesh also differs in the size and shape of the cells, which are in the form of a rectangle, rhombus, square or other geometric figure. When building a fence, the shape of the cells does not affect the result of the work, and its dimensions have some meanings. It is important to remember that the smaller the cell size, the stronger the canvas, but such a mesh does not transmit light well. The large size of the segment also has disadvantages, as it will not provide the necessary protection against small animals and poultry. To build a fence, a grid with mesh sizes from 40 to 50 mm is used. This version of the canvas will protect the territory from unwanted penetration and let in a sufficient amount of light for plants.

Also of considerable importance is the height of the canvas and the thickness of the wire from which it is made. As for the height, it starts from 1.5 m and reaches 3 m. The optimal web height for the fence is 1.5 m, and a mesh with a wire thickness of 2–2.5 mm is best suited.

If the thickness is greater, then this will lead to some difficulties. Firstly, the canvas will cost more, and secondly, it will affect the choice of material for the support posts, since the weight of the mesh will increase and the installation will become more difficult.

Calculation of the required amount

The chain-link mesh is sold in rolls, the standard length of which is 10 m. So that it does not sag, supports are installed along the fence line every 2–2.5 m. Therefore, 5 poles will be needed for one roll. The part of the support that is above the ground after installation must be 10 cm higher than the width of the net. The columns themselves need to be buried in the ground one third of their height.

Based on this, we can calculate how many columns and how long the grid will need. For example, we are building a fence 30 m long, which should have a height of 1.5 m. This will require 3 rolls of mesh and 16 supports, the length of which will be in the range of 2.3–2.5 m. In addition, each support is equipped with three hooks for fasteners (top, bottom and middle) total 48 pcs. You will also need a steel bar or reinforcement 5 mm thick in order to stretch the mesh. Since it will pass above and below the grid, a total of 60 m will be required.

To calculate the required amount of concrete for pouring one hole with a support post, you need to find out its volume and subtract the volume of that part of the post that is buried in the ground. Since the holes and columns are in the shape of a cylinder, we make calculations using the formula:

• The number ∏ = 3.14.
• R is the radius of the cylinder (hole) in meters.
• H is the height of the cylinder (hole depth) in meters.

The diameter of the hole is 12 cm (0.12 m), and the radius is 0.12/2 = 0.06 m. The depth (H) is 80 cm or 0.8 m.

We substitute the data in the formula:

V \u003d 3.14 * 0.06 * 2 * 0.8 \u003d 0.30144 m 3 (hole volume)

For the columns we will use metal pipes with a diameter of 80 mm. The radius (R) of such a column is 40 mm or 0.04 m. The height (H) is the same as the depth of the hole - 0.8 m.

We use the same formula:

V \u003d 3.14 * 0.04 * 2 * 0.8 \u003d 0.20096 m 3 (volume of the poured part of the support)

Now we find out how much solution is needed in order to install one column in the well:

0.30144–0.20096 \u003d 0.10048 m 3

Accordingly, for 16 holes you will need: 0.10048 * 16 \u003d 1.60768 m 3 of concrete.

We prepare the batch based on the proportions: 1 part of cement (M 400), 2 parts of sand, 4 parts of crushed stone. Water is added until the mixture reaches the state of sour cream.

To get 1.6 m 3 of concrete you will need:

1. Cement (M 400) - 480 kg.
2. Crushed stone - 1920 kg.
3. Sand - 960 kg.

Calculation of materials for a fence from sections

In the event that the construction of the fence is done in a sectional way, then you also need to calculate the number of metal corners for each frame in which the mesh is attached. It is better to use a metal corner 40 by 40 mm, with a wall thickness of 5 mm. We calculate its quantity per section: the height of the frame is the same as the height of the grid (1.5 m), and the distance between the posts is 2–2.5 m.

Having made simple calculations, we see that 8 m of a metal corner will be needed for each section. There are 16 sections in total, so the total length of the corner is 128 m. They attach the mesh to the frame of the corners using 5-7 mm reinforcement, for such a fence it will take 128 m. To install the finished sections, use metal plates 5 x 15 cm in size and 5 thick mm, 4 pcs. on internal poles and 2 pcs. at the extreme, total - 60 pcs.

Tools and materials for work

• hand drill or shovel;
• tape measure, building level;
• primer for metal;
• dye;
• metal hooks;
• Rabitz;
• metal pipe with a diameter of 60 to 80 mm;
• sandpaper;
• Bulgarian;
• welding machine;
• metal corner 40 × 40 mm;
• sand, crushed stone and cement for mortar;
• metal plates (5 × 15 cm, thickness - 5 mm).

Step-by-step instructions for making a fence with your own hands

Area marking

We clean the place for the construction of the barrier from debris, plants and other possible obstacles. We determine the points where the pillars will be located and begin marking the territory. To do this, you need to hammer pegs into the extreme places of the fence and pull a nylon cord between them.

You need to pull the cord so that it does not sag or dangle from the wind. Make sure that the stretched thread does not cling to possible obstacles. Consider the section of the support pillars, taking into account the fact that they will be located inside the site, and the grid from the side of the street or neighboring territory.

A stretched nylon cord acts as a beacon not only during the marking of the area, but throughout the construction. It will provide linearity and control of the height of the fence around the entire perimeter. After that, we mark places for intermediate pillars, the distance between them should be within 2.5–3 m.

Installation of columns

After all the materials, tools have been prepared and the area has been marked, they begin to install the pillars. According to pre-made marks, with the help of a shovel or a drill, holes are made with a depth of 80 to 120 cm. The softer the soil, the deeper the holes should be and vice versa.

Since we will use metal pipes as pillars, before installation they must be cleaned of rust and oil deposits, and then sanded with sandpaper. Using a welding machine, weld the hooks for attaching the mesh, clean the welding spots with a grinder and prime the entire surface of the column with an anti-corrosion primer.

Next, we install the supports in the pits, level them and fix them in this position with spacers. Make sure all posts are at the same height and in a straight line. If this is not the case, then by adjusting the depth and width of the pits, achieve the desired result. After that, you can safely pour concrete mortar into the pits. It is recommended to proceed with the installation of the grid no earlier than 48 hours after the concrete mixture has completely solidified.

Mesh installation

For installation, do not unwind the mesh completely, it will be much more convenient to attach a whole roll to the corner post in a vertical position and hook the edges of the mesh onto the prepared hooks.

When attaching the canvas, raise it above the ground by 10–15 cm. This is necessary in order to avoid tangling grass, branches and other debris in the mesh in the future.

Next, we unwind the roll, carefully stretch the mesh and fasten it in the same way to the adjacent post. The work is best done with a partner: one can stretch the canvas, and the other can fasten it with hooks. Do this procedure around the entire perimeter of the fence. In order for the mesh not to sag over time, thread a steel bar or reinforcement into the upper cells at a distance of 5-7 cm from the edge along the entire length of the fence and weld it to each post. From below, do the same, only step back from the bottom edge of the grid by 20 cm.

Production of a sectional fence

They mark the area and install the pillars in the same way as in the previous case, only instead of hooks, metal plates are welded to the pillars, departing from the upper and lower edges by 20 cm. To make a section, you need to measure the distance between adjacent supports and subtract 15–20 from it cm, so we find out the width of the frame. The height will be the same as the grid width minus 20 cm. Next, cut the blanks from the corner of the desired length and weld a rectangle out of them. With the help of a grinder, they clean the welding spots and grind the inner and outer sides of the frame with an emery cloth.

After that, the roll is unwound and the required length of the mesh is cut off with a grinder (the distance between the supports is minus 15 cm). Further, along the entire perimeter of the cut web, reinforcement 5–7 mm thick is threaded into the extreme cells.
The welded frame is placed on a flat surface with the inner side up and the prepared mesh with reinforcement is placed in it, then the upper rod is welded to the upper corner of the frame. Next, pull the bottom side and, by welding, attach the reinforcement to the corner. Install the sides in the same way.

After that, the finished section is placed between the supports and attached to pre-prepared metal plates by welding.

When further installing the remaining sections, pay attention to the edges of adjacent frames, they should be on the same level. For convenience, use a level or taut cord. After installation is completed, all frames must be primed and painted.

Finishing and decoration

In most cases, a chain-link fence is not decorated, but left as is. If you decide to build an original structure, then there is no limit to fantasy in this matter. Here are a few options on how you can decorate your fence.

• For decor, you can use CDs. First they are painted, and then attached to the grid with a thin wire.
• If the cells are small, then bottle caps are used for decoration. The mounting method remains the same as in the previous version.
• What is not a material for decoration masking tape.
• If you decorate the fence with colored glass or plastic squares, it will look very beautiful and original.
• You can also decorate your fence with embroidery on the grid cells with colored threads.
• Colored shreds or cross-stitch bags will help to add originality. To do this, find a suitable picture in a magazine or the Internet with a ready-made scheme of work, set it in front of you and repeat the drawing by cells in accordance with the original.

Closing from neighbor's eyes

The disadvantage of a chain-link fence is that it does not cover the area from prying eyes. In order to correct these omissions, more efforts need to be made.

One way to close the fence is a hedge. Climbing plants are most often used, but it may take several years for them to fill all sections. The way out can be planting annual plants, for example, morning glory. During the season, it will cover not only the fence mesh, but also nearby trees and bushes. The disadvantage of such a barrier is that it will only serve until autumn.

Another way to make your fence opaque is to use artificial pine needles. Since it is implemented in the form of coils of wire, it will be enough just to pass it between the cells.

A very original method of closing the fence is reeds. It, as in the previous case, must be threaded vertically through the cells of the chain-link.

In order for the fence to be closed and look more modern, polycarbonate is often used. It comes in different transparency and many color shades. Attaches directly to fence posts with self-tapping screws.

If the distances between the supports are greater than the width of the polycarbonate sheet, then you need to install additional metal profiles between them and attach the canvas to them, otherwise the sheets may crack under the gusts of wind.

Video: Installing a chain-link mesh at their summer cottage

As you can see, making a chain-link fence is not so difficult. Like other similar structures, it has advantages and disadvantages. It is important to remember that this is a budget option, which is often built as a temporary option for fencing. Although, as practice shows, if the installation is done correctly, it will last for many years. In addition, if you show imagination and creativity, such a fence will delight its owner not only with practicality, but also with an aesthetic, original look.

How to build a chain-link fence with your own hands - all mounting options and decor ideas

The patented invention of Karl Rabitz has been a reliable option for fence material for more than a century. In the fencing of a chicken coop and a transformer booth, a sports ground and a land plot - such a grid can be found everywhere. There is no alternative to it in the delimitation of neighboring areas - according to the standards, it is forbidden to install boundary fences made of opaque materials. The task of how to make a chain-link fence with your own hands will not seem difficult to any man with a minimum of tools.

What mesh netting to choose for the fence

The chain-link grid represents a continuous cloth from the wire spirals interwoven among themselves. This design makes it easy to splice fragments together. In this case, the cell size can be in the range of 20-100 mm (the most common dimensions are 30-50 mm), the standard roll height is 1, 1.5 and 2 m.

Chain link fence

In the manufacture of the grid, wire of different diameters from 1.2 to 5 mm is used; most of the chain-link on sale is made of wire 1.5-2 mm in diameter. The wire can be coated and uncoated:

• Uncoated ("black"). It is better not to use a mesh from it for capital fences, its service life is short, and it is almost impossible to paint such a product with high quality, despite all the assurances of the "advisers".
• Zinc coated - the most common option. Galvanized chain-link will fade after a while, but will not rust, having served for more than a dozen years.
• From stainless steel. Chic and timeless option, but very expensive.
• In a polymer shell. Such a grid appeared on sale not so long ago and is in great demand. Firstly, it has a long service life (subject to the choice of a reliable manufacturer with high-quality plastic coating), and secondly, you can realize your fantasies due to a wide palette of colors.

Galvanized Wire Mesh

Mesh with colored polymer coating

With your own hands, you can not only build a fence from a chain-link, but also weave the mesh itself. There are many drawings of a manual machine for weaving it. The manufacture of the machine will require some milling, welding and simple turning work. One person is able to make up to 10 m of mesh per day, therefore, therefore, if there is wire, it makes sense to think about independent production.

Installation of supports for the construction of the fence

There are several options for making a chain-link fence. In any case, the most responsible and time-consuming process is the marking of the territory and the installation of supporting pillars.

How to prepare the site and choose supports

Before installing a mesh fence, you should accurately, according to the available documents for the site, measure the boundaries of the future fence, consider the location of the gates and gates. Clean the place for the construction of the fence from debris and vegetation, and then hammer the poles (wooden or metal stakes) into the places of future corner posts and supports under the gates and gates.

To determine the location of the intermediate posts, you need to stretch a strong cord between the stakes, then measure the distance between them. Optimally, the racks are placed 2-2.5 m apart, so the resulting distance must be divided by 2.5 and rounded up.

The distance between the posts should be from 2 to 2.5 m

In this way, the number of corner posts is found; the exact distance between them can be found by dividing the distance mentioned above by the number of posts. Places of future supports should also be marked with pegs.

Depending on the type of underlying soil, material, thickness of the pillars and the type of future fence, there are several methods for mounting the supports. Wooden posts are short-lived, concrete or asbestos-cement pipes cause difficulties in attaching the grid.

The best solution for making a chain-link fence with your own hands will be metal racks from a round or shaped square pipe from 60 mm in diameter. Let's take a look at this option next.

Support pole installation methods

You can install metal racks:

• just hammering them into the ground;
• fill - place in a prepared hole and fill it with stones or large gravel, constantly tamping;
• partially (when the end of the rack is driven into the ground) or completely concreted in pre-prepared pits.

Support installation methods

There are many methods for calculating the length and depth of the underground part of the pillars - with the determination of the type of soil, the level of groundwater passage and the depth of soil freezing. But for a light fence from a chain-link mesh, possible movements of supports of several centimeters in height are insignificant, therefore, in practice, a simple rule is used - at least 40% of the column should be in the ground. That is, a fence post with a height of 1.5 m should be about 2.1 m long for any installation method, but optimally full concreting.

In practice, the process looks like this:

1. Install corner (or end, in the presence of gates and gates) racks, strictly controlling their verticality using a level.
2. Prepare pits for intermediate racks according to the pre-marking. The presence of a drill in normal (without roots and large stones) soil greatly facilitates the work!
3. After the concrete has hardened, pull a cord along the top of the racks to control the height of the installed intermediate supports, another one from the bottom to control the placement of all pillars in one line.
4. To facilitate the alignment of the pillars in height, fill the bottom of the pits with sand, gravel or small gravel and simply change the height of this pillow by adding or removing material.
5. Pour the height-adjusted racks with concrete with level control, if necessary, install stops and stands.

Further installation should be carried out only after the concrete has hardened (at least one week), the racks must be primed and painted.

Installation of intermediate supports

Instructions for building different types of chain-link fences

Before you start building a chain-link fence with your own hands, you should determine the purpose of the fence, the basic requirements for aesthetics and strength. Indeed, in one case, a powerful fence made of a non-standard mesh with a wire of 4-5 mm for grazing is needed, in the other, a beautiful and elegant fence in front of the house or a lightweight structure without frills at the borders of neighboring plots. For each task there is a variant.

The simplest fence for the site

The easiest way to install a mesh fence is to simply attach it to the installed supports. For this work, you will need an assistant, and preferably two.

1. Before fastening, roll out the chain-link on the ground at a distance of a little more than one span between the racks.
2. Check the level of the wire spirals in height, if necessary, screw in or unscrew the offset ones. The fact is that it is not visible in the roll whether they are all on the same level, and after stretching the mesh, it will be impossible to align the links.
3. Immediately bend the edges of the spirals with pliers to avoid injury and the possibility of unwinding the mesh during installation.
4. As you fasten the mesh, unwind further.

There are several ways to attach the chain-link to the racks, but it is highly desirable to fasten not the mesh itself (in order to avoid its deformation), but a metal rod inserted vertically into its link with a diameter of 6-10 mm. For one more of the same pin, inserted a little further, the assistant should stretch the canvas.

This does not require any blocks, levers and complex structures for stretching, moreover, excessive efforts by one person can lead to deformation and stretching of the 2 mm wire mesh!

The rod can be attached to the support like this:

• just tie it with soft wire to the pole. The fastest way, but not too beautiful;
• use not wire, but special clamps;

Fastening with clamps

• put the pin on pre-prepared hooks and bend them. Hooks from pieces of wire with a diameter of 4-6 mm and a length of 50-80 mm should be welded to the rack at a distance of 400-500 mm from each other until the mesh is stretched;

Fastening with hooks

• weld a rod (not a canvas!) To a pole in several places, obtaining a non-separable connection;
• flash the mesh spiral with a rod, inserting it into pre-welded pipe sections with a diameter of 1/4ʺ, 15-20 mm long. They should be placed on the support through the same distance as the hooks; the small length of the segments will allow them to fit into the cells of the grid. The most aesthetic way of collapsible connection.

End and corner posts will experience constant loads from the impact of a stretched mesh, so braces (stops) are required.

Corner post mounting method

Stretch fence option

To ensure greater rigidity of the fence, better resistance to wind loads and to prevent sagging of the web, one (from above) or several rows of a cable or wire 4-6 mm thick can be pulled.

You can attach to the supports and pull such strings in any convenient way, but the most practical option is with the help of special ties or tensioners.

String tensioner

Wire tensioners

When installing a fence from a chain-link mesh with your own hands using stretch marks, the distance between the posts can be increased to 3m. But it should be borne in mind that during tension, the load on the extreme and corner supports increases many times, so their rigidity should be increased in comparison with supports for a simple tension fence.

The ideal option for fixing the web is through stitching the mesh along the length. But this process is long and laborious, and with an increase in the diameter and rigidity of the cable or wire, the complexity increases.

Therefore, in practice, the strings are first pulled, then the chain-link is mounted in the same way as the simple method described above, and then, after 200-300 mm, the mesh is tied to extensions with a galvanized knitting wire with a cross section of 1-1.5 mm.

Reinforced version with lags

To strengthen the supporting frame of the fence, logs should be welded to the installed racks, preferably from a profile pipe. The main load in the fence will be compression, so the section of the log should ensure that the frame does not “fold” when the mesh is stretched and the fence is subsequently used. With this method of installation, there is no need for braces for corner and end posts.

Mesh netting on a frame with lags

Since most of the effort will be applied at the top of the fence, the lower and intermediate logs (if any) can be replaced with reinforcement, rolled wire, or strings can be pulled altogether, as in the previous method. Fasten the mesh fabric to the frame with wire.

A fence with lags will be a good start for the future if it becomes necessary to decorate the fence by hanging additional material on it. Also, without any problems, you can replace the chain-link with a professional sheet or slate, making the fence much more solid.

Practical sectional solution

Fence from sections

A fence of sections, which are frames from a corner with a mesh fixed inside, is the most difficult to manufacture, but has a lot of advantages and benefits:

• such a design is the most beautiful and flawless in an artistic perspective;
• each section is a separate and rigid structural element, so there will be no issues with mesh sagging and loss of protective properties;
• if necessary, the sections can be dismantled and the poles can be used to build new fences;
• the possibility of installation with a large slope of the fenced area. It is believed that the chain-link mesh can be stretched when the ground level rises no more than 6 ° (which corresponds to a slope of 1:10). If these values ​​are greater, the correct solution would be a sectional fence with uniform ledges.

Sectional fence with ledges

For the manufacture of the section, a steel seamless-rolled corner with a shelf of 40-50 mm is used.

1. Using a "grinder" (better - a mounting saw), cut off parts of the required size strictly perpendicularly.
2. Lay the frame out on a flat surface (or level all corners with the help of pads), carefully measure the diagonals. The frame should be cooked in opposite corners to avoid twisting it.
3. In the finished frame, clean the seams, prime and paint it (it is much easier to renew burnt places from welding than to paint the corner under the grid!).
4. It is necessary to install the mesh web through rods that can be welded or installed on hooks and bent (as well as to racks). At the same time, fix the first pin on the side of the frame, after stretching the mesh - on the opposite side, and then from above and below.
5. Do not apply excessive force when stretching, otherwise the section may "fold" inward. Fastening from all sides, even with minimal tension, will not allow the canvas to “worry” and sag.
6. The distance between the supports should be calculated so that there is a gap of 40-80 mm between the support and the frame (or make sections according to the already known distance between the posts).
7. To fasten the sections to the poles, weld metal plates in advance (approximately 6 * 60 * 250 mm).
8. It is possible to fasten the frames to the dies both by means of electric welding and by bolts, having received a collapsible structure.

Approximate diagram of fastening sections

: do-it-yourself chain-link fence

How to decorate a mesh netting - original solutions

Many do not want to make a chain-link fence, considering it impersonal, too simple, and refuse this option in favor of other materials. Completely wrong! There are many ways to make such a fence original and unique, here are some of them.

Making patterns from wire. A laborious method, but beautiful and for a long time.

The use of polymer multi-colored ribbons and cords. Bright, elegant, but not too durable.

Elegant applications from ribbons and cords

Living plants. Always relevant, but beautiful only during the period of active vegetation and flowering. And from autumn to spring, if the dried stems are not removed in a timely manner, it looks very untidy. Similarly, you can use artificial greens.

Illumination nets. They come in a variety of colors and degrees of light transmission. Significantly increase the windage and weight of the fence, so they are not suitable for a simple tension fence.

Application of a light-shading grid

PVC photo fence or decorative photo grid. New, expensive, beautiful and luxurious material. It is also worth using with a powerful frame or a sectional fence solution, hanging over a chain-link.

Decorating the fence with a photo grid

On this question, how to make a fence from a grid with your own hands, can be considered closed. Good luck in construction, and let the fence made with the help of the advice received please you for many years!

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