What is the best way to make a chain-link fence. How to make a chain-link fence - expert advice. How to make a chain link fence opaque

A fence is an essential element of any private property. If country houses are recommended by experts to be fenced with more reliable protective structures, then summer cottages are their practical and inexpensive options. The most suitable material for a country fence is a chain-link mesh. With its help, you can not only make a durable fence, but also increase the yield of beds, since the design does not interfere with natural ventilation on the land, and also does not block the sun's access to it. To build a chain-link fence with your own hands, you do not need to be a professional. This article will reveal all the secrets of the masters in installing a practical fence without welding, and will also tell you what tools and materials you need to have to perform such work.

Features of the chain-link mesh, its advantages

Chain-link mesh is a versatile material that is indispensable in summer cottages. It has many advantages that make it even more popular among buyers. These include:

affordable cost. Chain-link mesh is a budget option for building a fence, because not every homeowner is able to allocate a decent amount for the installation of a more expensive structure in the country;

A high-quality mesh will serve you for decades.

long service life. High-quality galvanized mesh is able to maintain its original appearance for several decades (up to 40-50 years). It does not rust, with proper use it does not deform.
the need to use a minimum number of tools and fastening materials during the installation of the fence;

Important! You can install a chain-link fence with or without welding. Installation without welding is ideal for people who do not know how to work with such equipment.

ease of care for the material;
the grid does not interfere with the natural circulation of air, does not obscure the territory.

Important! A chain-link fence serves as an ideal fence not only for beds, flower beds or a vegetable garden, it is also indispensable in the process of arranging children's playgrounds, pet enclosures, etc.

Material classification

Depending on the material of manufacture, the chain-link mesh is of three types:

Not galvanized.
Galvanized.
Plasticized.

Non-galvanized mesh is a fairly cheap material. Of course, it is more affordable, but its long service life can be doubted, since under the action of moisture the surface rusts very quickly.

Galvanized mesh is the most popular among customers. It is a little more expensive than its non-galvanized counterpart, it does not rust, which is really very valuable.

galvanized wire mesh

Plasticized material is a modern option, but more expensive. In the process of its manufacture, polymers are used that properly protect the metal mesh from moisture. The plasticized grid has various color scale. Each homeowner is able to choose a material that will ideally fit the interior of the house, as well as complement it.

Instructions for craftsmen: how to make a simple chain-link fence without welding with your own hands

Making a durable and reliable chain-link fence is a fairly simple and interesting task. Its implementation does not require a large amount of professional knowledge and skills. To work, you only need tools and materials, as well as the desire of the master.

There are two ways to make a galvanized fence from a chain-link mesh:

With the use of a welding machine.
Without welding.

Since not every homeowner has a welding machine at his disposal (or does not know how to use it), we will consider the option of installing a fence without using it.

Important! Installing a fence without the use of welding will allow you to build a structure that will be less practical than its welded counterpart.

So that the construction of the fence does not cause difficulties, you must first stock up on all the necessary tools and materials. In the process of work you will need:

chain-link mesh (non-galvanized, galvanized or plasticized);
support poles (wooden, metal or reinforced concrete);
special fastening hooks;
sand, screenings, crushed stone and cement;
shovel;
building level;
mounting tape;
hammer or drill;
bolts, nails or screws.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a galvanized mesh fence

The simplest version of a mesh fence for a summer residence is a tension one. Its installation will not take as much time as it might seem at first glance. For the correct performance of the work, it is necessary to know and follow a clear sequence of the entire technological process.

Scheme: installing a chain-link fence

Advice! To install a tension fence from a chain-link mesh, it is best to involve an assistant who will help you get the job done faster.

A chain-link fence is the best budget option for a summer cottage. Install such a fence with your own hands, you will appreciate its merits not only from personal experience, but you will also see it by the increased amount of crop received from the beds.

Video instruction: how to build a fence from a chain-link mesh without welding with your own hands

Chain-link fence: photo

How to protect your summer cottage? A steel mesh fence is an economical option that is considered effective, fairly easy to install. It does not cast shadows, is well ventilated, forms a transparent wall that does not interfere with plant growth. But the most attractive thing is that the simple technology of work allows you to install a chain-link fence with your own hands.

What to give preference to: features of the chain-link mesh?
An attempt is not torture: do-it-yourself installation of a mesh fence
Tips from "experienced"

What to give preference to: features of the chain-link mesh?

However, there are options here too: just stretch the cellular fabric between the pillars or fix it according to the design made from the corner? The first method is simpler, although it does not look so impressive from an aesthetic point of view. Alternatively, such a fence can be equipped on the boundary with a neighboring site.

What to use for the device supports?

The cost of the fence, its durability is affected by the material from which the pillars are made. It can be a light, inexpensive tree. If these are beams, then they need to be cleaned of bark, cut into equal lengths (3 m), be sure to open them with a waterproofing solution. You can use poles left over from construction in the country as supports. The upper part of the supports, located above the ground, is exposed to atmospheric precipitation, so it will have to be oiled, then painted with oil paint. Wood is a material that is easy to process, but, nevertheless, short-lived.

Important! On unstable soils, in wetlands, the entire underground part of the pillars must be concreted. The cement mortar is prepared in proportion: two parts of cement, two parts of crushed stone are taken for one part of sand. When adding each component, the dry mixture is thoroughly mixed. Water is poured so much that after thorough mixing the solution is not very liquid. With the tip of a shovel, it is rammed, leveled, shaken. When concreting hole foundations for pillars, the main work is resumed only after 7 days, when the concrete "ripens".

Asbestos-cement or concrete structures are used as supports. They are strong, stable and durable. Fastening to the supports of rolled cellular material is carried out with a cable or wire through equipped clamps. The weaving option is that the pole is surrounded by a cable threaded into the cells. One thing is bad: in the event of a vandal capture of the net, it is enough to “bite” the cable, and it can be easily removed.

Metal poles-supports in this regard are more reliable. Plus, they last for decades. Pipes 60 - 120 mm in diameter with a metal thickness of at least 2 mm are used. Grid holders are welded on them in the upper part - metal hooks. Then the whole structure is painted with waterproof paint.

Carefully evaluate the roll

When choosing a chain-link mesh, you need to pay attention to the general appearance of the roll. It should not be crumpled, deformed. Wire braided material - smooth, whole. It is very important that the edge part does not look like a curve: all the outer corners of the cells must be of the same height, elongated “along the string”. From this envy aesthetic appearance, lack of sagging.

The grid is used for fences steel, galvanized. Sold in rolls of 10-20 m long. The size of the cells, their thickness, as well as the width of the mesh fabric also varies. Roll material with a width of one and a half meters is most in demand. If you want to make the fence higher, the mesh fabric rises by the upper edge, the gap formed at the bottom is laid with the available materials at hand.

Exclusivity, a special flavor to a chain-link fence with your own hands in the decor can be given by a colored polyester coating that is resistant to damage and fading, as well as the shape and size of the cells. Usually, these are rhombic or square honeycombs sized 30x30, 45x45, 50x50mm. Although canvases can be made to order with a different geometry.

An attempt is not torture: do-it-yourself installation of a mesh fence

The simplest installation of a chain-link fence with your own hands without welding comes down to the following.

Installation begins with driving corner posts along the border of the site, because. they will be subjected to the greatest uneven load. Since the entire construction of the fence is quite light, the foundation is not needed for it. The pillars are planted in the ground to a depth of about 1 m. If it is a metal pipe or profile, then the lower part, which will be in the ground, is treated with an anti-corrosion compound.
Half of the volume of land is selected with a drill. At the final depth, the pillars are driven in with a sledgehammer. Before starting the installation, the vertical is checked with a water level. In case of deviation from it, the fence can “lead”. The resulting void between the pillar and the walls of the pit is filled with rubble, after which it is carefully compacted. This is done to make the structure stronger.
So that the mesh web does not deviate from the vertical plane, a cord is stretched between the corner supports. This will be a line, a kind of landmark on which you need to drill the rest of the holes. The total length of the fence is measured with a tape measure. The resulting value is divided into equal sections. Every 2.5 m, holes are dug or drilled for supports. The selected stride length must be respected as at a greater distance, the windage of the mesh becomes unacceptable: under the force of the wind, the mesh material will stretch, and over time it will simply sag.
By the way, in some cases, in addition to concreting, for reliable fixation, the supports in the drilled holes are covered from all sides with rubble stone or savage. This layer is carefully compacted, after which a small layer of soil is laid on top. The resulting "pillow" must be well compacted again. Finally, on top, the finishing layer of rubble stone is laid.
The design feature of the poles are the hooks at the top. Welded to the profile, they bend well. Before installing the grid, they need to be straightened. The rolled canvas itself must be hung correctly. For this, the upper edge of the roll is determined: the wire on it is longer. In addition, the extreme spiral is marked. "Nippers" bite off the central and extreme screeds. A roll of chain-link mesh (galvanized, steel, etc.) is rolled out from the extreme edge “on itself”. It should turn out to be a solid canvas when unfolded.
Grasping the edge, holding the material, gradually stretch it. In this form, the grid will not get tangled, and the edges will cling to the cells. Better if it is galvanized. In the case of a metal fence, its surface will rust from moisture in a couple of days after installation. Galvanization is durable. In any case, it will last a quarter of a century on the fence.

For the cells of the upper row, the mesh is suspended on pre-bent hooks. At the same time, at the joints of two panels, it is left unstretched. Between themselves, the edges of the two rolls are intertwined with a zigzag wire. It is considered extreme in the roll web, therefore it is unscrewed from it. Then, using the weaving method, attaching both pieces to the ends, they are intertwined with this piece. It turns out a seamless solid fence.
Now the finally solid fence is pulled tight so that it does not sag over time. Hooks are bent with a hammer, fixing the specified mesh tension. Do not forget about the top of the canvas. Unformed tendrils of the wire from which the cells are made stick out on it. The ends sticking out in different directions are twisted together, wrapped downwards, in order to avoid injuries during the work.
A chain-link fence with a cable can be considered as an option in which a thin (ᴓ 6mm) cable or wire is passed into the even upper row of cells. Tension fasteners are fixed in the corner posts. It is tensioned with bolts and does not allow the structural material to sag. To do this, holes are pre-drilled on the pillars closer to the outer edge, as well as in the middle. They should be located at a height equal to the location of the penultimate row of cells, be slightly larger in diameter than the cross section of the wire (cable) or rod used for tension. In supports for installed mesh sections, such wire holes are not needed.
Protruding "whiskers" are twisted around the wire. It is also needed to eliminate the hanging of the top of the mesh, its sagging. To do this, you need to apply a certain tension force. To create it, use a special device for a chain-link fence from a mesh with a cable. A thick bar is pulled through the cells of the extreme row. A part of the mesh is wound on it with a roll until it stops. All wound material is fixed with wire. A cable is attached to the rod. I use a long bar as a lever, tighten the mesh to full tension. This position is fixed on the supports with bolts or other hardware.

Important! The fence made of galvanized stainless material does not need further finishing. It can be used immediately after installation. If the wire in the mesh is metal, its subsequent coloring is required. The work is done only with a brush: from a spray gun a lot of paint is uneconomically spent in space, and when working with a roller, it is impossible to completely paint over the weaves.

When erecting a fence from a chain-link mesh with your own hands, you do not need to mount the structural material with an overlap on the ground, leaving air space between it and the ground. This, on the one hand, will remove the additional load on the grid; on the other hand, by eliminating contact with the ground, the metal sheet will not be subjected to corrosive destruction in this way.
The hooks on the poles are nailed to a flattened appearance with a hammer. The rolled wire passing through the upper, lower row of cells is fixed to the posts by welding. On the corner supports, where you need to make a bypass of the canvas, you get a loose tension, no matter how carefully you try to do it. Therefore, in this place a connecting seam is made from two pieces of mesh.
Do-it-yourself chain-link fence without welding looks less preferable than a fence made of welded frame sections with an area of 1.5x2.5 m from a steel corner. The mesh design is welded to them by electric welding. It will provide such a fence from a chain-link mesh with your own hands decor to any exterior. Climbing plants planted next to it, flowers, located on the fence and clinging to it with shoots, will create a natural, colorful, fragrant, living carpet.

The mesh construction is not only a beautiful, simple even in its own design, an original "living" hedge. A chain-link fence is an example of how, having shown ingenuity and making an effort, it is possible to economically build an original fence that is in no way inferior in its purpose to more fundamental and expensive structures.

The German construction worker Karl Rabitz, patenting his stucco mesh, did not even guess how many applications she would find later. One of the most common is a fence. Chain-link mesh, or just a chain-link, is inexpensive, it is not difficult to build a fence from a chain-link mesh with your own hands, and its performance is very high. By the way, "chain-link" has become a household word, and this word must be handled according to all the rules of the Russian language. Chain-link lovers fence fences and curious, from improvised material, but quite reliable, and / or not devoid of artistic merit:

Curious mesh fences

You can make a fence from a chain-link without experience with 1-2 unskilled assistants around a plot of 20 acres over the weekend, not counting the gate with a gate, if you know the features of this material and how to work with it. Their description is one of the purposes of this article. The second is to talk about some little-known useful qualities of chain-link fences, which we will finish quickly in order to come to grips with the technique.

Note: further, when describing the types of chain-link fences, we will, as far as possible, suggest how to make one or another without welding, if in this case this is even possible. Country electrical wiring most often simply cannot withstand the operating current of the welding machine, and it is difficult and expensive to rent and transport a motor-generator.

What is a chain link fence good for?

Frost on the grid Rabitsa

First of all - excellent visibility, high light transmission and breathability. It is impossible to fence off small areas with blind fences, they shade plants and disrupt the circulation of surface air layers, which aggravates the effect of frosts, dry winds, etc. A fence made of welded mesh also transmits both light and air, but its canvas is not voluminous. Flattened spirals, from which the Rabitz mesh is wound, break the dense air flow into small whirlwinds, which causes the wind energy to drop and its effect on buildings and plantings is reduced. The difference in aerodynamics is clearly visible in ice (see the figure on the right): the stronger the ice storm rushes, the less the netting passes it. In general, over long periods of time (from 10 years), plots fenced with chain-links suffer less from the vagaries of the elements than those surrounded by some other fence.

The three-dimensional structure of the chain-link also gives it high elasticity when stretched. This is important, first of all, for playgrounds: even if a small troublemaker hits the fence instead of the ball, there will be no serious injuries. A properly built chain-link fence will withstand a frontal collision with a car at speeds up to 40-50 km / h without fatal consequences for the driver, passengers, car and himself.

Finally, the high elasticity of the stretched chain-link, combined with its three-dimensional structure, determines the poor surmountability of a correctly made fence from it: the stretched chain-link bends and springs as a single surface. This is essential not so much against intruders as when keeping livestock and other domestic animals. It is equally difficult for a cat and a bull to jump over a chain-link fence, break through it or get entangled in it. Unwanted wild newcomers to the household yard - too.

Types of chain-link fences

Installation of a chain-link fence is possible in at least 5 different ways, giving significantly different operational qualities of the fence:

Stretch along the string;
Hinged along the veins;
Mounted on the slopes;
Sectional teams;
Sectional whole.

Tension along a string (cable or wire, item 1 in the figure) a chain-link fence is the most permeable, resilient and windproof. Material consumption is minimal. Disadvantages - laboriousness, tk. pillars must certainly be completely concreted (see below), as well as obligatory braces for corner, gate and, possibly, intermediate pillars. For installation, special equipment is required, some of which, however, can be replaced with devices from improvised means.

Types of chain-link fences

In a fence hinged along the veins, a chain-link fabric is hung instead of an elastic string on rigid rods (pos. 2) or a small professional pipe, which is a vein. It is easiest to build a chain-link fence on veins, which is why they most often make them for themselves. The permeability and, so to speak, "wind-softening" properties of the chain-link fence on the veins are almost the same as those of the tension along the string. However, if a truck that brought something accidentally catches it, it will most likely have to be changed at least 2 spans completely. On dense, well-bearing soils, pillars under a fence hinged along the veins can be installed in simplified ways.

A fence made of a chain-link hung on a slug (boards, a steel profile or a round plastic pipe, a corner), pos. 3, is more material and labor intensive than the hinged one along the veins, but you can put it on any more or less bearing soil (more than 0.5 kg / sq. cm, if the soil is not flooded) by simply hammering or digging the pillars, because . supports with slegs form a single sufficiently strong and rigid structure. A chain-link fence on wooden poles is no less durable than on steel ones. In addition, it can be built on a slope without any tricks, see fig.:

Sloped mesh fence

The fact is that the chain-link keeps its shape when skewed up to 6 degrees, which gives a slope of 1:10, i.e. 1 m by 10 m. However, the mechanical properties of the chain-link fall catastrophically, but this is not essential in the fence along the slopes, because almost all operational loads are assumed by supports with rigid strapping.

A prefabricated sectional fence made of chain-link (pos. 4) is expensive, labor-intensive and, by the way, less durable (it is easier to demolish or cut the whole frame than to break through a solid mesh panel), and it is easier to overcome. Its only advantage is a more or less decent appearance and lower dynamic loads on the mesh, which is especially important for colored plasticized netting, see below. Solid sectional chain-link fences (pos. 5) are durable, difficult to overcome, visually visible, but expensive, labor-intensive and of little repair. Children's, sports and industrial sites are most often fenced with such, therefore, solid sectional fences are not considered further.

Note: if you are going to make a sectional mesh fence, then the first thing to consider is the welded flat mesh option. The chain-link in this design has no advantages over it, but the welded mesh is cheaper and easier to install.

Net

Installation of a chain-link fence is not possible from any of its types, of which there are dozens, if not hundreds, in the production and sale. The “black” chain-link made of uncoated structural steel (item 1 in the figure) is a plaster and reinforcing mesh, not intended for outdoor use: it quickly rusts, does not hold paint well, is rather fragile and begins to tear from the winds even sooner than it rusts.

Types of mesh Rabitsa

For fences, most often there is a galvanized chain-link made of wire of increased plasticity (pos. 2), the so-called. gray. It costs approx. 7-12% more expensive than black. A cheerful fence can be made from a plasticized chain-link (coated with colored PVC, item 3), but only sectional. The solid panel of their colored netting sags in the wind, the plastic at the joints is rubbed over the winter, and the mesh rusts. Very fast, because in this case, the metal is eaten by capillary moisture. There is a plasticized chain-link somewhere 1.5 times more expensive than gray.

Note: in wide sale there is also a chain-link made of stainless steel wire, pos. 4. A marvelous fence dream, but, like all marvelous dreams, it is very expensive in real life.

Mesh and wire

Fences are usually made from a vertical chain-link with a mesh of 50-60 mm, from wire with a diameter of 1.6-2.2 mm, pos. 5. To fence a household yard with a bird, you need a more expensive mesh with a mesh no larger than 30 mm, otherwise the ducklings will scatter, and it will not be difficult for ferrets and weasels to get into the house. The lower gap of the fence (see below) in this case is covered with boards or slate.

A mesh of increased strength made of wire up to 4-5 mm thick (pos. 6) is needed for the fence of a corral or pasture for cattle. It is difficult to work with it, especially splicing panels (see below), because. reinforced chain-link is heavy and tough.

A very strong and elastic variety of chain-link with a small, up to 20 mm, strongly flattened mesh, the so-called. shell mesh (pos. 7, remember the old beds?). But it is much more expensive than an ordinary fence netting, and working with it is even more difficult. And finally, a chain-link of a horizontal layer, pos. 8: it is impossible to make the junction of her canvases in the fence invisible.

Splicing and tension

The chain-link mesh is produced with a width of 1.1 m in rolls of 10 m. For fences, 10-meter rolls with a width of 1.5-3 m are usually purchased. It is impossible to turn large rolls without lifting mechanisms. That is, the fence will need several rolls, the panels of which (if the fence is not sectional) must be spliced into one sheet.

It is not necessary to splice the netting panels into a web with wire (pos. 1 in the figure) - it is ugly and fragile. To splice the netting sheets, one spiral (one twist) is carefully unscrewed from the edge of one of them and, screwing it into 2 extreme layers of the sheets, they are spliced, pos. 2.

Splicing and tensioning the chain-link mesh

Also, when installing a chain-link fence, the mesh must be stretched. Especially - if the fence is stretched along the string, then the mesh should be pulled tight. In the methods for this, it is recommended to use a screw lanyard (pos. 3) or hoists, but with improvised means and with 2 assistants you can do it easier, pos. 4:

Sections of reinforcing bars with a diameter of 10 mm or more are tucked into the extreme layers, and bridles from a textile or synthetic cable with a thickness of 12 mm or more are knitted to their ends.
On the one hand, the bridle is carried along the hollow on the support 4a, thrown onto a firmly driven stake-"boy" with an emphasis-lying between it and the extreme post, and a cable gate 4b is made until it is tightly tightened.
On the other hand, a stake (vaga) 4v with another bridle thrown over it is placed in the hole with an emphasis.
One worker holds the wag vertically, holding the bridle on it so that it does not slip, and the other wraps the collar as tight as possible.
The worker on the collar holds it, and the worker on the vaga pulls it towards him. The mesh will be taut with a force of approx. equal to the force of hoists from 4 blocks.
Workers keep the mesh taut, and the master fastens it.

Mesh attachment

The mesh is attached to the extreme pillars by introducing the same armatures into its nearest from the inside to the pillars. Then the rods in 4-5 places are attracted to the poles with clamps and, if necessary, the rods (not the mesh!) Are additionally attached to the poles by welding. The mesh is attached to the intermediate posts in the same way and, thus, it turns out to be tightly stretched. Depending on the type of fence, the method of fixing the mesh may be different, see below.

pillars

Chain-link fence posts can be wooden, steel from a round or shaped pipe, or round from an asbestos-cement pipe; in the latter case, reinforcement and concreting are required, as for piles. Ready-made poles for mesh fences with hooks (for tension and hinged fences) or mounting paws (for sectional ones) are produced. It is necessary to deepen the pillars into the ground by at least 80 cm, and preferably by 120 cm and deeper. Here the role is no longer played by the depth of freezing and frost heaving of the soil, but by the lateral operational loads on the pole. The minimum cross-sectional dimensions of the posts for a chain-link fence are as follows:

Pine or spruce for a fence with a panel on a string - 100x100 mm.
The same, oak or larch - 80x80 mm.
Steel from a professional pipe with a wall of 3 mm - 60x60 mm for a fence with a panel along a string or sectional and 40x40 mm for others.
Steel from a round pipe with a wall of 2.5 mm - dia. 80 and 60 mm resp.
Asbestos-cement - with a diameter of 120 mm for a fence with a panel along the string and from 100 mm for a hinged panel.

Note: sectional chain-link fences on wooden and asbestos-cement poles cannot be made. It is undesirable to make fences with a hinged panel on wooden poles, because. pillars in such structures are not prestressed. Asbestos-cement fence posts are not repairable.

Strengthening the pillars in the ground is possible in the following ways (see Fig.):

Strengthening the fence posts from the chain-link in the ground

Driving or digging in - on dense, not very heaving, not flooded soils: dry loams and clays, gravelly and cartilaginous soils;
With partial concreting - in areas with a small freezing depth on soils with a bearing capacity of 1.7 kg / sq. see Practically - on any stable soil;
Butovanie - recommended for wooden poles on soils as in the previous. n. A sand and gravel cushion with a thickness of 20-30 cm is poured under the pillar, the rubble is poured in layers, 15-20 cm each, tamped and poured with sand. Properly prepared wooden poles (see below) in such nests stand for 50-70 years or more;
Full concreting - in all other cases. Under the post - anti-flood pillow, as in the previous. P; the solution from M150 is poured in layers, 10-15 cm each. The next layer is poured as soon as before. will start to catch on. The column is fixed with temporary braces for the time of concrete gain of 50% strength (3-7 days).

How to prepare wooden poles?

A chain-link fence on wooden poles can be just as durable and reliable as a steel one, if properly prepared. The maintainability of the fence on wooden poles is higher, because. repairing or replacing a broken wooden pole is easier than a bent steel pole. Preparation of wooden poles for the fence is as follows:

Bars-blanks are impregnated with engine oil waste or any oil-based biocide-water repellent (water-repellent composition).
Underground + approx. 50 cm above ground are impregnated twice with bituminous mastic.
Underground + approx. 30 cm above ground are wrapped with roofing material, pulling the wrapper with a thin soft wire. Do not fasten with nails or screws!
The upper end of the installed column is painted over with thick oil paint (red lead, ocher, whitewash), regardless of whether the column will be finished somehow else.

How to put up fences?

The gap between the lower edge of the mesh and the ground in any chain-link fence is needed from 15-20 cm. Otherwise, an inconvenience will form there, where pests and weeds will breed and breed. So that the cattle, trying to reach the fresh meat, do not injure their muzzles on the net, and the bird does not run away, the lower gap is covered with boards or slate so that they can be removed if necessary.

By the strings

Step-by-step instructions on how to install the most common chain-link fence on 3 strings are given in fig. A 3-string fence is very elastic as a whole, therefore, in this case, the pits for the pillars are small - frost heaving can spoil such a fence only on heavily and excessively heaving soils. In this case, they keep each other from skewing the pillars with the help of tightly stretched strings. The minimum allowable diameters of steel wire and cable strings are 4 and 3 mm respectively, but usually 4 mm cable is taken for the strings, and most often 6 mm wire rod. You can still pull it by hand and, of course, it is stronger. This fence can be installed without welding. Wire holders of the 1st type are hooks on poles driven with a hammer; Type 2 - self-tapping screws for metal with hooks.

Installation of a fence from a grid Chain-link with a cloth on strings

Features of installing chain-link fences with linen along the strings

If the fence is with corners, then on the corner posts you need 2 struts at 90 degrees. And if the length of the fence from corner to corner exceeds 10-12 m, then on weak soils (sandy loam, sand, black soil, gray and peaty soils), struts of intermediate pillars, pos. 1 next. rice. Gate posts can in any case be without braces if the gate opening is arched or with a crossbar. Also, without struts of intermediate poles, a chain-link fence on strings with wooden poles can be made, pos. 2.

The mesh is applied to the strings after they are stretched. It is enough to grab the net to the string with a “mustache” (pos. 3), because the string plays along with the grid. If the pillars are round, then the chain-link cloth can be circled without breaks (except for gates and gates) around the entire perimeter, pos 4. Also, due to the greater bending strength of round pipes, in this case, you can not concrete the jibs, but spread them between the pillars.

Note: all chain-link fences along the strings can be made without welding.

On the veins

A chain-link fence on wire rod strings is already a transitional option for a fence with a hinged panel. In "real" chain-link fences, the upper and lower strings are replaced with rigid reinforcing bars - veins inserted into the mesh cells. The veins are introduced into the rows of cells in advance as the roll unfolds. The upper and lower veins are attached to the poles in the same way as vertical ones: by throwing them into hooks, clamps, welding. 2 options for installing chain-link fences with a hinged panel are shown in the video:

Installation of chain-link fences (video)

And here we will limit ourselves to what should not be done when building such a fence.

Errors when making fences from a chain-link mesh on veins

Firstly, a hard rod does not play with the mesh in the wind, so it is impossible to introduce veins into the outer rows of cells (pos. 1 in the figure on the right), the cells will soon disperse. However, inserting veins into rows of cells 2-3 from the edge (pos. 2) is also impossible, now for safety reasons. When trying to climb over the fence, the chain-link does not bend much on the veins and it seems to an inexperienced thief or just a half-wit that it is possible to “take” such a fence. But then he finds himself hanging on a wire stuck in his stomach, and the owner has to answer for other people's stupidity and evil up to prison. Therefore, the veins of the hinged fence must be entered into 4-6 horizontal rows of chain-link cells from the edge. Then it simply cannot be climbed over; in extreme cases, an absolutely unreasonable stubborn man will strip his hands, but will not tear his own guts.

Note: strong, safer and rather elegant chain-link fences are obtained if you take a thin professional pipe on a vein; drawings of the span of such a fence, see fig. below. This is a transitional type to a fence with a canvas on the sleds.

Drawings of a chain-link fence on veins from a professional pipe

On the slopes

The device of a chain-link fence on wooden slings is shown in the next fig; this fence can also be assembled without welding. Poles do not have to be taken with paws; they can be attached to them with self-tapping screws for wood, if the poles are wooden, or for metal, if the poles are steel. For a fence on a slope, this option is even preferable.

The device of the fence from the chain-link on wooden sleds

But what should not be simplified in the fence from the chain-link fence is the method of attaching the net. Here we need the same reinforcing bars, nailed to the rails with U-shaped brackets or bent nails. If, however, the mesh is fixed as shown on the right in the figure, or simply with nails / self-tapping screws, then within a year it will sag, no matter how it was initially stretched.

Sectional

A sectional fence made of a chain-link can look quite attractive if the section frames are welded from a professional pipe, and the mesh is grabbed directly to them by spot welding; a drawing of a section of such a fence, see the left in fig. below. Collect sections recumbent:

Frames of height less than the grid stretched in width are brewed.
Lay the frame flat.
A piece of mesh of length greater than the span is placed on the frame and stretched with plug-in veins, as described above.
They seize each cell falling on the frame by spot welding.
Cut off excess mesh.

Schemes of sectional fences from the chain-link

As you can see, it requires either special equipment, or at least 4 strong assistants, and also a spot welding machine, and even part of the mesh goes to waste. Therefore, do-it-yourself sectional fences from a chain-link are most often made in frames from a corner of 30x30x4 or 40x40x5 (on the right in the figure):

Roll out the mesh to the length of the span and stretch it up and down as far as possible with your hands. It is better to do this on the ground, fixing the veins with pegs. Insert veins into the extreme rows of cells.
Measure the distance between the outer edges of the veins. The distances between the shelves of the corners H facing each other must be equal to them.
Mounting hooks made of 6 mm wire rod are welded into the corners, not reaching the shelves of the corners facing each other by 1-1.5 cm.
When installing the fence, the upper vein is first thrown onto the hooks (the mustache of the mesh must be bent).
Then, with 4 mounts (for which an assistant is needed), the lower vein is brought onto the hooks.
The side veins are put in place in the same way.

Relief and swamp

Instead of a conclusion, we suggest watching another video on how to install chain-link fences on slopes, bumps and marshy ground:

Installing a chain-link fence on problem surfaces (video)

Today, with all the variety of fences, few types of construction could replace a hand-made chain-link fence.

Benefits of a chain link fence

Very quick and easy to install with your own hands;
Low cost;
Ease of construction, does not require a reinforced foundation;
Lets light through, will not create conflict situations with neighbors due to the shadow created;
Strict and unobtrusive appearance that fits perfectly into any landscape.

Installation methods

Do-it-yourself chain-link fence can be installed in two ways:

1. Normal, as in the photo above, when the mesh is stretched between two support posts. This method is much cheaper and easier. It is recommended to use in cases where the goal is not to pursue an impeccable appearance, but you just need to quickly and cheaply install a fence.

2. Sectional, as in the photo above, when finished sections of the fence are produced, in which a fragment of the chain-link mesh is fixed. This method will cost a lot more, because you have to get metal corners, the price of which is higher than the mesh itself, but at the same time the fence itself will be much more attractive and practical (for example, you can hang a carpet on top of the fence, something to dry, etc.)

materials

For the installation of such a fence, we need the following materials:

Metal poles 50x50x2x3000 mm;
Chain-link mesh (not galvanized, galvanized or plasticized);
Fasteners (nails, galvanized bolts);
Concrete M200.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a chain-link fence

So, how to make a chain-link fence with your own hands?

I. Territory marking.

We begin work by driving in pegs in the corners of the site and pulling the laces between them. We measure the length of the lace - this is the length of the required chain-link mesh, you also need to take into account + 5-7% of the additional length "in reserve". Next, we mark the places of the supports, the optimal step is 2.5-3 m.

II. Pillar installation.

In the event that after the construction of the house there is a sufficient amount of wooden beams or other material left that you can use as future supporting fence posts; when the price of a "wood" in your region is several times cheaper than a metal profile, or you just need a temporary fence - then you should use wooden supports. The surface of the wooden beam must be cleaned of bark, and it is also desirable to treat it with antiseptics and waterproofing mastic, which will protect the material from decay and pests. The poles should be cut based on the desired height of the fence, as well as the depth of the base being dug in (the pit should be 100-150 mm larger from the depth of freezing of the soil, therefore, if you are counting on a two-meter fence, and the depth of freezing of the soil is 800 mm, then you should prepare poles with a height of 3 m). But such supports will not last long, so it is better to use metal poles!

If you decide to build a solid and durable fence - take care of buying metal poles. The installation of such supports requires concreting the base. The depth of the concreted pit should be 1/3 of the height of the fence. For example, if you planned to put up a fence 2 m high, the depth of the pit should be at least 1 m (you should also take into account the freezing depth and heaving of the soil).

III. Chain-link mesh stretch.

It is most convenient to nail the mesh to the wooden base of the fence.

Do-it-yourself sectional chain-link fence

The main difference between this method and the usual one is the presence of a frame.

To install a sectional fence from a chain-link mesh, we need the following: materials:

Metal pillars 50x50x2x3000 mm;
Grid chain-link galvanized or plasticized;
Bent metal corner 40x40x3 mm
Metal rod and strip for welding
Concrete M200

The marking and installation of the posts of the sectional fencing from the chain-link is no different from its simpler counterpart, but you will have to sweat with the welding of the frames. If you do not have good welding skills, then it is better to contact a professional.

When planning sections, do not forget that they need to be made 100-200 mm shorter than the distance between the fence supports and 100-150 mm above ground level.

Having marked and cut the mesh according to the dimensions of the welded rectangle, we evenly stretch it along the frame and, having applied metal rods on top, we weld everything into an integral structure.

Finished sections are attached to the poles in strips by welding.

At the final stage, it is recommended to paint all metal elements and welding points of the sectional fence with a primer.

Photo of chain-link fences

See photos of chain-link fences made by hand

Do-it-yourself chain-link fence installation video

Watch the video on how to make a chain-link fence with your own hands:

Installation of a chain-link fence.

For many years, owners of private houses, summer residents, builders and manufacturers have been using woven mesh as a material for installing fences. This is easily explained by its availability, low cost and ease of installation. With a minimum set of tools, any owner of the site can install a chain-link fence with their own hands.

As a minimum possible set, you must purchase:

grid;
material for bearing supports;
metal bar with a diameter of 6-8 mm;
knitting wire;
cement, gravel, sand.

Depending on the type of fence construction chosen, other materials may be required. So, for the manufacture of a sectional fence, you will need a corner of 15x15 or 20x20 mm and a metal strip of 20-40 mm. Welding work involves the presence of electrodes.

Mesh selection

A chain-link mesh is a transparent cellular fabric woven from wire spirals of a special shape. The size of the cells can be in the range from 20 to 100 mm. Web width - from 1000 to 2000 mm. The material is delivered rolled up in rolls of 8-16 meters.

Depending on the material of the wire and the presence of a protective coating, 4 types of chain-link mesh can be purchased on the building materials market:

from a simple steel wire without a sheeting, "black";
galvanized;
stainless steel;
with a protective polymer coating.

"Black" It is intended for reinforcing during plastering and concrete works. It is not recommended to use it for fencing due to fragility as a result of strong susceptibility to corrosion.

Galvanized sheet is an the most common material for mounting a chain-link fence due to affordable cost and durability. Such a mesh, even in the most adverse operating conditions, will last at least 15 years.

Fence stainless wire will be practically eternal. However, the main disadvantage of this material is its high cost. In addition, it must be taken into account that when using a stainless mesh, it will be necessary to install poles from appropriate materials and, most likely, to abandon welding joints. This will increase the final cost of the fence and complicate installation.

chain link with polymer protective coating Produced in a wide range of colors, looks beautiful, durable. The main problem is that at the intersections of individual wires, the polymer coating wears down to the metal over time and an active corrosion process begins.

To install fences around the site, weaving with a wire thickness of 3-4 mm, a mesh size of 30-50 mm and a web width of 1200-1500 mm is most often used.

Such sizes of the chain-link mesh for the fence will ensure the achievement of the most optimal price option. Cells less than 30 mm are used in the construction of fences for birds and small domestic animals, more than 50 mm are used mainly in industrial facilities, airports, agricultural land and other vast areas.

The choice of material for the pillars

There are several possible options from different materials. Among the most common are supports from:

wood;
metal;
concrete.

wooden poles- the cheapest, simplest, but very short-lived solution. In order to increase the service life of wooden poles, their lower part must be treated with a special impregnation and covered with a layer of bituminous mastic. The rest of the surface must be impregnated with drying oil and painted.

metal racks can be made of steel pipes of square, rectangular or round cross-section, as well as from an equal-shelf angle. Other types of shaped metal products are more expensive, their use will no longer be economically justified.

Concrete supports they are durable and reliable, but they make it difficult to fix the grid, and it’s quite difficult to put such poles.

The best and most common option today is the installation of metal poles from a rectangular profile pipe with a section of 25x40 mm with a wall thickness of 2.5 mm. They perfectly hold a light, wind-permeable fence and, with a protective coating against corrosion, can last for decades.

Calculation of the amount of materials

Determining the amount of materials needed for the construction of a chain-link fence should begin with drawing a future fence scheme on the plan of the fenced area. The recommended distance between the posts is 2.5-3.5 meters.

Reducing the pitch will increase the number of poles and increase costs. Large distances between the supports will not allow for high-quality mesh tension and will greatly complicate the installation process.

On the diagram drawn, mark all the installation sites of the pillars and, based on this, determine their total number. Multiplying the number of poles by their height, taking into account the underground part, you will get the total length of the pipe to use as poles.

The length of the chain-link mesh will be equal to the length of the fence on the plan. The connection of individual sheets during installation is not carried out with an overlap, but by inserting connecting twisted wires, which will be discussed below.

An exception is the option of installing a sectional fence. In this case, the total mesh length can be reduced by 5-7%.

The calculation of the amount of cement, sand and crushed stone should be performed depending on the total number of pillars and the consumption of concrete mix for concreting one pillar. The usual depth of the pits is 400-500 mm, the average diameter is 300-350 mm. Accordingly, it turns out that the installation of one pillar will require 0.05 m 3 of concrete. The ratio of cement, sand and gravel is defined as 1:3:4. Therefore, it is possible to determine the amount of building materials for concreting pillars.

When installing a chain-link fence on heaving and weakly stable soils, the posts should be deepened by at least 800 mm. This will double the consumption of building materials and add 400 mm to the height of all pillars.

Fence Installation Procedure

Like most construction works, the installation of a fence is carried out in several successive stages:

Territory preparation and marking

Before you pull the chain-link mesh on the fence, you should deal with clearing the strip along which it will be mounted. In addition, at the preparatory stage, the necessary materials and tools are assembled.

To mark the places for the installation of poles on each straight segment of the fence, drive in pegs at the mounting points of the two extreme supports. After that, stretch the cord between them and, measuring the required distance, mark with pegs the installation sites of the remaining pillars.

Digging holes, installing and concreting pillars

Digging holes for the installation of poles can be done using a conventional bayonet shovel, but it is much more convenient to use a special hole drill. It can be manual or mechanically driven. This will be especially true with a large number of installed pillars.

The diameter of the hole must be at least the size of the pipe section with the addition of 100-150 mm in each direction. The depth of the dug pits is 400-500 mm for ordinary stable soils or 800-1000 mm for heaving, highly moistened and other unstable soils.

The order of installation of the pillars is similar to the markup. On each straight section of the fence, two extreme supports are first installed. After the concrete has hardened, you need to stretch the cord between them and install all the other pillars along it, be sure to check the vertical with the help of the building level. Concrete mixture for pouring pits with installed supports is prepared from cement, sand and crushed stone in a ratio of 1:3:4.

General procedure for installing a fence.

Mesh installation

As mentioned above, the design of the chain-link fence can be different. Each of the options has its own advantages and disadvantages, usually associated with the level of reliability of the fence and ease of installation.

Tension method

The easiest way is to fasten the mesh to the installed supports without the use of additional elements and fasteners. To do this, roll the mesh on the ground to a distance of about one and a half spans between the posts. Bend the ends of the wire spirals with pliers if this has not been done by the fabric manufacturer. This will prevent possible injuries during work and improve the appearance of the fence.

The grid laid out on the ground must be lifted and fixed on poles with wire or clamps. You will need an assistant or two to complete the job. It is almost impossible to ensure mesh tension by working alone.

Strengthening the structure with lags

For more reliable fastening of the mesh and prevention of possible sagging over time, horizontal logs can be welded to the installed racks from a thin profile pipe or even a metal bar with a diameter of 6-8 mm.

In the case of using a bar, it can be passed through the cells of the grid before welding, which then does not need to be tied. If a profile pipe is used, then the fence is fixed using plastic self-clamping clamps.

The presence of a log will allow not only to strengthen the structure, but also to place various decorations on the surface of the grid for the final design of the fence. In addition, the lags will pull the entire system into a single whole, i.e. you do not need to install special slopes for the stability of the corner posts.

Fence from sections

This design is a fence in which rectangular sections are fixed between the installed pillars, welded from a corner, inside of which a chain-link mesh is stretched.

It is somewhat more difficult to manufacture, but it has a number of advantages over simple tension systems. To perform the installation of a sectional fence from a chain-link mesh:

on a flat hard surface, draw a rectangle corresponding to the configuration of the section;
put a corner on the line and weld the frame;
inside the shelves of the corner with a pitch of 150-200 mm, weld small pins of wire or rod with a diameter of 6-8 mm;
lay out the mesh inside the section, and pass its edges through the pins;
bend the pins with a hammer, fixing the position of the grid;
sections are fixed on supports by welding pieces of steel strip to the pole and frame.

After installation, all unpainted surfaces must be covered with a layer of paint.

Fence decoration options

A mesh fence can serve not only as a fence of the site, but also as its decoration. To do this, use a variety of methods and materials. One of the easiest options is to plant climbing plants along the entire fence line. The growing bindweed will fill the entire area, creating a beautiful hedge.

As special materials for decoration, you can use colored twine or polymer ribbons, using them to create a variety of color patterns. A simple, although not very effective option is to use a camouflage net. But here it should be taken into account that its elements burn out in the sun over time and become covered with a persistent coating of dust.

The disadvantages of a mesh fence

Like everything on this planet, the chain-link is not without flaws:

Transparency. It is useful for plants, but harmful to humans. To protect privacy from prying eyes, you will have to use additional means, for example, a hedge.
Not very presentable. It is difficult to imagine mesh material as an exclusive decoration of a private courtyard.
The need to periodically paint over all the details. This shortcoming is easy to "fix" if you do not make mistakes when buying.

Varieties of chain-link mesh

When choosing a mesh, it is important to consider the material of manufacture, the presence of an external protective coating.

To date, most of the meshes are made from low-carbon steel (the finished product is more ductile) or stainless steel (hard version).

The outer covering deserves special consideration. The consumer has the following options:

Without protective coating. Wire diameter - within 1.2-5 mm, cell size - 50-100 mm. Without periodic staining, it will become unusable in 3-4 years.
Zinc coated. Minimum wire diameter 1.6 mm, maximum 5 mm. The cell size does not exceed 100 mm. No painting or protective varnish is required. Service life - 15-20 years.
plasticized material. Standard steel wire 2.5-2.8 mm thick is coated with polymers on top. Cell size - 25-50 mm. It has a beautiful appearance and a long service life.

Important: the seller must have a certificate for the polymer coating. If it is not there, then instead of expensive polymers, you will get cheap powder coating. Accordingly, the fence will have to be changed in 3-5 years.

The size of the cell is equally important. This is important for poultry farmers and livestock breeders. Summer residents run the risk that neighbors' cats, chickens or puppies can easily penetrate through large cells into the site. It is important that the smaller the cell size, the more the roll weighs. For a garden plot, the best option is 50x50 mm.

How to put up a chain-link fence with your own hands

Any construction begins with a project. A light chain-link fence is no exception.

When developing a drawing or sketch, consider the following points:

Access roads, landings, buildings and outbuildings.
The presence of a slope on the site. With a small difference in height, it is advisable to level the soil at the installation site of the fence. If the slope is significant, the best option is cascading.
Support placement. They must not harm the trees. Do not forget about the boundaries, common roads, so that later you do not have to deal with demolition and reinstallation.
Frame type.

Varieties of fences by type of frame

In modern construction, several varieties of chain-link fences are used. The choice of a specific type will determine not only the appearance, but also the complexity of the work:

tension option. The advantage is the minimum price and quick installation. The mesh is stretched between dug-in or concreted pillars. The main drawback is that under its own weight, the structure will eventually sag and lose its external shape;
stretch with a broach. A strong wire is additionally stretched along the upper edge of the fence, which does not allow the structure to sag;
sectional. The most expensive option. In addition to the chain-link and pipes directly, you will need a corner for frames. The advantage is an attractive appearance, increased strength in comparison with the tension type. If there is no welding machine and welding experience, purchase ready-made sections in stores or on the construction market.

Expert opinion

Sergey Yurievich

Construction of houses, outbuildings, terraces and verandas.

Ask an expert

For areas with a large slope, experts recommend choosing a sectional fence. This will allow you not to waste time leveling the territory.

Choice of fence posts

A fence is a combination of intermediate sections and supports. In the case of a chain-link mesh, the installation of poles is the most complex and time-consuming process, completely dependent on the source material. Popular options:

Metal pipes from a profile of round or square section, Optimum diameter - 60 mm. Advantage - for installation it is enough to drill wells and pour concrete mixture. The disadvantage is that during operation it will be necessary to periodically prime and paint (we are talking about a pipe without a galvanized outer layer).
Wood. Not the best option for many reasons: susceptibility to decay, the need for constant treatment with antiseptics. Dense types of wood (oak, elm) are expensive. If you choose wooden supports, then the diameter should be at least 100 mm.
Brick. Practically not used for mesh fences. The reason is the complex and lengthy laying, the need to prepare and pour the foundation.
concrete columns. Advantage - low price. You can fill it yourself or buy ready-made ones. In the latter case, the main difficulty is the preparation of suitable pits and concreting. In addition, you will have to think about how to fix the chain-link, mount special "ears".
Asbestos pipes. Advantages - resistance to moisture, durability. The disadvantage is the lack of fasteners. You will have to install additional clamps or clamps. The upper part must be insulated with plugs. In winter, water that gets inside will freeze and break the structure.

Construction materials for the fence

To build a fence you will need:

Rabitz. The footage is determined by the perimeter of the fenced area. In a standard roll of 10 meters;
tension galvanized wire with a diameter of 2 mm, if a device of the appropriate type of fence is selected. Alternatively, choose thin fittings or pipe. But the cost of construction and overall labor intensity will increase. Quantity - the perimeter of the site, multiplied by 2. If you make an additional broach in the middle, then the perimeter is multiplied by 3;
poles. Important: between adjacent standing - no more than 2.5 meters. Accordingly, the total number per site is calculated;
metal corner 40x40x3 for sectional version;
wire for fastening together individual pieces of chain-link;
cement, gravel, sand for concreting supports;
primers to protect against rust (metal), rot and woodworms (wood);
building level, tape measure, shovel, drill, concrete mixer, rope or cord to mark the boundaries of the site.

Stages of building a chain-link fence

site preparation. No need to carefully level the area, remove all the roots of plants. It is enough if there is no debris and plants directly along the installation line of the structure.
pouring the foundation for the pillars. To a depth exceeding freezing in this region (check with the local architectural department), pits are drilled. A sand cushion is poured to the bottom and compacted. Next - a layer of gravel, followed by tamping. This will help to avoid the consequences of winter and spring heaving of soils and pushing the structure to the surface.

Pit drilling is often replaced by driving or screwing. But with this method, it is easy to damage the supports themselves. Additional disadvantages are the complexity of the process and the difficulty in maintaining the same height for all supports.

pole preparation. Wooden poles are treated with antiseptics, steel poles are cleaned of rust and covered with primer to prevent future corrosive processes. The tops of steel and asbestos-cement pipes are closed with plugs.
supports are installed in prepared pits. It's better to start with corners. Important: they bear the maximum load. Additional spacers or pillars of larger diameter will help to avoid deformations and breakages.

Next, a rope or building cord is pulled between the corner supports. Do not forget about the gate and the gate under the car. Mark the edges of the entrance group with strong posts. The last to install ordinary supports.

rack installation. The edge of the roll is attached to the corner post. Next, the roll is unwound, and the mesh is stretched with obligatory fastening to intermediate supports. A tension wire is laid along the upper edge and in the middle using a long hook or tarlep. Important: if the chain-link is made of non-galvanized wire, raise it above the ground by 100-150 mm.
It is better to connect the rolls near the support. The free ends of the two rolls are twisted together. For reliability, the edges are connected using a blowtorch or contact welding. Further work continues with the second, third and subsequent rolls.

Construction of a sectional fence

The main problem is the preparation of frames. Their height is less than the ground part of the supporting pillars by 100-150 mm. Length - 2.5 meters (standard distance between supports). Sequencing:

with the help of a grinder, blanks of the desired length are cut from the corner. Deviations from the above parameters along the length are possible for corner sections and those located next to the gate;
frames are welded;
the mesh is cut into pieces according to the size of the sections;
thick wire or reinforcement is wound along all edges of the chain-link for subsequent tension on the frame;
reinforcing bar or wire is welded to the inside of the frame.

Experts suggest welding pins around the entire perimeter of the section, bending hooks from them with pliers. The mesh is attached to these hooks. In the future, the edges of the hooks are welded for greater reliability.

Wire mesh is an ideal material for lightweight fencing. It does not obscure the light, and therefore is widely used for fencing beds, gardens, marking the boundaries of neighboring areas. To put up a chain-link fence with your own hands, you do not need to be an experienced craftsman, you just need to familiarize yourself with and choose the right materials.

Fence materials

The appearance, durability and cost of a chain-link fence directly depends on the quality of the mesh. Metal mesh is available in three versions:

non-galvanized;
galvanized;
plasticized.

The cheapest of all. It is not suitable for permanent fencing, as it begins to rust after the first rain. Usually untreated black mesh lasts no more than 3-4 years. To extend the service life, the non-galvanized chain-link should be coated either with paint or with special compounds, which, after application, form a water-repellent coating on the mesh. Periodically, such processing must be repeated, which as a result is more expensive than the purchase of a galvanized mesh.

Moisture is not afraid and does not require protective treatment. Her appearance is much more attractive, such a grid looks especially good in sectional fences. The cost of galvanized mesh is higher than regular black mesh, but since it lasts longer and does not need to be painted every 2-3 years, this option is more practical.

plasticized mesh It has a special polymer coating that is resistant to corrosion. The coating is not only durable, but also a variety of colors, so you can choose a mesh to match the main fence or roof of the house. The most popular is the netting of blue and green, less often you can see a white, red or yellow mesh fence.

Special attention should be paid to the supporting pillars of the fence. Chain-link mesh can be attached to metal pipes, steel profiles, concrete posts and even wooden posts.

The most convenient and practical supports are square metal pipes. Manufacturers offer pipes with hooks already welded on, especially for installing mesh fences. To reduce the cost of installing the fence, used pipes are also used, and the hooks are welded on their own. In addition, hooking is not the only option, it is possible to fix the mesh with steel wire.

How to calculate the amount of materials

The most popular for the manufacture of fences is considered to be a chain-link mesh with a width of 1.5 m and mesh sizes of 40-50 mm. A standard mesh roll has a length of 10 m. To prevent the mesh from sagging, support posts must be installed in increments of 2-2.5 m. This means that no more than 5 posts will be required per roll. The above-ground part of the supports should exceed the width of the grid by 10 cm, and the posts should be dug into the ground by 1/3 of their height.

So, if you need to install a chain-link fence 30 m long and 1.5 m high, you will need 3 rolls of mesh and 16 posts 2.3-2.5 m long to work. 3 hooks should be attached to each post - top, bottom and middle . Multiplying the number of supports by 3, they find out how many hooks will be needed. If the fence is sectional, the number of metal corners for the frame is additionally calculated. The height of each section is equal to the width of the grid, and the length of the run is 2-2.5 m. The most convenient corner for a 40x40 mm frame with a thickness of 5 mm.

Netting prices

Rabitz

Tension fence manufacturing

Tension fencing made of chain-link mesh is faster than sectional fencing, and is cheaper. The installation process includes marking, preparation of pits for poles, installation of poles and fence canvas.

For work you will need:

Step 1. Marking the site

They take wooden pegs and a long string and start marking. First you need to determine the location of the extreme pillars. In these places, pegs are driven in, a twine is pulled between them at a height of 10 cm above the ground. If the fence line has breaks, a beacon is also placed on each of them and a rope is fixed. Further along the marking line, it is necessary to drive in pegs where the intermediate supports will stand. The distance between the pegs must be the same and correspond to the width of the run.

Step 2. Preparing holes for poles

In places marked with pegs, holes are made with a garden drill from 80 to 120 cm deep. The denser the soil, the shallower the depth. The diameter of the holes should be slightly larger than the diameter of the posts. At the bottom of each pit, a sand cushion 10 cm thick is arranged.

Step 3. Installation of load-bearing poles

Prepare pipes: clean their surface from oil stains and rust, grind, weld hooks. The welding points are cleaned, the scale is removed, and then the pipes are primed and painted. After that, the columns are lowered into the pits, leveled, strengthened with spacers. If all supports have the same height and are located strictly in one line, you can fill. During the pouring process, the mortar is pierced several times with a steel bar to remove air bubbles from the concrete.

Step 4. Attaching the chain-link mesh

To fix the net on the poles, the roll does not need to be unwound. It is lifted vertically, put on the first support and hooked on hooks. If there are no hooks, the mesh is screwed with steel wire in three or four places. It is recommended to leave 10-15 cm between the surface of the earth and the lower edge of the grid. It can also be attached close to the soil, but then the cells will quickly become entangled with grass, debris, branches, and fallen leaves will accumulate under the fence.

Having fixed the chain-link on the first pillar, they move on to the second. The roll is unwound for 2-2.5 m, put on a support and the mesh is pulled. In order for the tension to be uniform, a steel bar 1.5 m long is threaded into the cells along the height of the roll. It is best to perform this process with an assistant: one person stretches the mesh, the other fastens it with wire or hooks it.

Even a tightly stretched netting sags over time, especially at the top. Reinforcing wire or long steel bars threaded into cells along the perimeter of the fence at a distance of 5-7 cm from the top and welded to the posts will help to avoid this. Sometimes the wire is threaded both from above and along the lower edge, stepping back from the ground 20 cm. Finally, the ends of the wire and hooks are bent inward, plugs are put on all the support posts.

Production of a sectional fence

The marking and installation of support posts for a sectional fence is carried out according to the technology described above. The only difference is that the posts should not be with hooks, but with welded metal plates. These plates have dimensions of 15x5 cm and a thickness of 5 mm; they are welded from above and below to the racks, stepping back from the edges by 20 cm.

To assemble the sections you will need:

Rabitz;
steel corners 40x40 mm;
Bulgarian;
roulette;
rebar bars.

Step 1. Assembling the frame

Measure the distance between the bearing columns and subtract 15-20 cm from it - this will be the width of the frame from the corners. The height of the section is equal to the width of the grid or the height of the column minus 20 cm. The steel corners are cut to the size of the section and into a rectangle. Then the scale is removed, the inner and outer surfaces of the frame are ground.

Step 2 Preparing the Mesh

A chain-link roll is laid on the ground, unwound 2-2.5 m and carefully cut with a grinder in width. Now reinforcing bars are threaded into the extreme rows of cells on each side. The rods do not need to be connected to each other.

Step 3 Mounting the section

The mesh is laid on the frame and the upper reinforcement is welded to the inside of the corner. Next, the mesh is well pulled down and the lower rod is welded, after which the sides are fixed. The finished section is lifted vertically to the posts and welded to the metal plates. You can also fix the section with bolts by drilling a hole of the desired diameter in the protruding part of the plate.

When mounting the next section, it is necessary to ensure that the edges of adjacent frames are in line. Even a difference of 1-2 cm will be noticeable and will give the fence a sloppy look. Finally, the sections are primed and painted. Thus, you can make a fence of any size without much hassle.

Video - Do-it-yourself chain-link fence

GOSTs normalize a lot, including how it is possible or impossible to delimit areas. So, for example, the regulations prescribe to delimit neighboring areas with transparent fences. Since the boundary is usually long, it is desirable that the fence be inexpensive. Actually, the choice is small - a chain-link fence or. Wattle, although cheap, is extremely short-lived, so that only a mesh fence remains. In general, it is correct to say “chain-link fence”, but for the ear it is more common to incline the name.

Popular and inexpensive - chain-link fence

Whatever this fence is called, it has a solid number of positive aspects. The first and important plus is cheapness. This applies to both the filling itself - the grid, and the rest of the structure. To stretch the grid, the foundation is not required. It is enough to drill holes for about a meter, insert a pole and, having fallen asleep rubble, compact it well. Everything, no concrete work. On most soils, this installation method for this filling works for "five".

Structures and installation methods

The fact is that the chain-link fence is light. Moreover, it is light both in terms of its own weight and in terms of perceived wind loads. No matter how strong the winds blow, the pressure transmitted by the mesh to the poles remains negligible. Due to the low weight, such a technology for installing pillars can be used: in a hole, under filling with sand or gravel, without concrete. Moreover, such a fence stands without problems even on heaving clay soils with a high level of groundwater, and even with a large freezing depth.

Without guides

Here's how it works. We are talking about the simplest design: just pillars, between which a grid is stretched. As you can see, the pillars are buried to a depth of less than a meter. What happens to such a fence on soils that normally drain water? All the water near the column goes down through the sand or gravel to the bottom of the hole. There it leaves in a natural way - it seeps into the underlying layers. Even if frost hits and the sand or gravel around the post freezes, the moisture content is not enough to have at least some significant effect on the post.

On clays and loams, you can use the same principle, only it is necessary to fill it with gravel. And be sure to pour 10-15 centimeters of gravel at the bottom of the hole, and only then install a pole. What happens in this case. Water still accumulates at the bottom, but it leaves very slowly. It may well happen that by the time of freezing, the rubble will still be wet, or even be in the water.

What will happen then? It will freeze and become hard. But since the soil also freezes, it puts pressure on the rubble. The forces are considerable, and the ice breaks, the rubble becomes mobile and compensates for most of the pressure created by the ground. As a result, if there are movements of the pillars, then they are quite small - from a few millimeters to several centimeters. Since the design is not rigid, the mesh will easily transfer it without any harm. After everything thaws, the poles will lower into place. But such a scenario is only if they are placed perfectly vertically. Otherwise, the poles may tilt and you will have to fix everything.

With guides (legs)

Sometimes, in order for the fence to be more solid and keep its shape better, two longitudinal guides are attached to the posts. They can be from a pipe, or they can be from a bar. Wood, as a plastic material, will tolerate soil movements remarkably, but a welded pipe will create additional difficulties.

The degree of rigidity of such a fence is higher, and when heaving, if the posts are squeezed out, it is quite possible that in some places the pipes may be torn off. To prevent this situation, you will have to dig below the freezing depth in your area. Everything else remains in effect: the hole is 15-20 cm deeper than required, there is rubble at the bottom, then a pipe is inserted, covered with well-packed rubble.

Sectional

There is another design of a chain-link fence. Frames are welded from the corner, on which the mesh is then stretched. Finished sections are welded to exposed poles.

As you can see from the description, the design is also quite rigid. This means that on heaving soils (clay, loam) it is necessary to bury the pillars 20-30 cm below the freezing depth of the soil, but it is also desirable to do without concreting. If you fill crushed stone with concrete, the probability that the pillar will “squeeze out” increases many times over.

Types of chain-link mesh for a fence

Even such a seemingly simple material as a chain-link mesh can be different. Moreover, the difference is solid both in price and in service life.

Plastic or polymer mesh - 100% polymer

In addition to different materials, the chain-link has a different cell size. It varies from 25 mm to 70 mm. The larger the cell, the cheaper the mesh, but the lower the bearing capacity it has. If you put a chain-link fence on the border with a neighbor, they take mainly the middle link - from 40 mm to 60 mm.

What to look for when choosing a grid

Carefully inspect each roll. Its edges should not be curved. The upper and lower cells should be with curved "tails". Moreover, it is desirable that the length of the folded part be more than half the length of the cell. This mesh is easier to pull.

Edges should be straight and folded

Pay attention to the thickness of the wire, how even the cells are, how ugly they lie. All deformations are a sign of low quality.

If the mesh netting is in a polymer coating, check the warranty period given by the manufacturer. The cheapest ones, not only do the wire often bend, they also use ordinary plastic, which, under the influence of ultraviolet radiation, becomes brittle after a couple of seasons and begins to crumble. A normal coating can last up to ten years or more. Therefore, in this case, it is not worth chasing cheapness.

Which poles to use

There are several options:

The most convenient option of all these is a profile pipe, and better - a rectangular section. It is easy to attach the mesh to it, and you can weld hooks or wire if necessary. If possible, put them on. The optimal section for the post is 25 * 40 mm or so. You should not take a larger section - the fence is light.

The order of installation of pillars

First, put up the pillars at the corners of the site. If only one side needs to be fenced, one pole is placed at the beginning, the second at the end. Their verticality in all planes is strictly checked, the height is adjusted. At the very top and 10 cm above ground level, two cords are pulled. The rest of the pillars are placed on them. The height is aligned along the upper lace, the lower one serves to facilitate orientation: by attaching a plumb line to a point on the upper thread, you can find the place where the hole will be drilled.

The installation step of the pillars is 2-3 meters. Less is too expensive, more is pointless, the mesh will sag. When installing mesh without a guide wire, it makes sense to put posts every 2 or 2.5 meters. This makes it easier to stretch the mesh without sagging. For other models - with wire, slides (guides) or sections - the step can be 3 m.

If the grid is stretched between the posts, the extreme ones have a considerable load. so that they are not "led", they put jibs. They are exposed, dug in, welded to the installed pole.

Netting net installation

It only seems at first that it is easy to put up a chain-link fence. As soon as you start to think about how to fix the net on the pole, how to stretch it, everything is not so obvious and simple ... First, about the general rules. The mesh is attached to one of the corner posts. Fasten in at least four places. In principle, you can simply fasten it with wire, passing it into the cell.

The method is simple, but not the most reliable. If the fence is in the country, during the absence of the owners, the grid can be easily removed and carried away.

You can at least fix it more securely on the first and last pillar. To do this, take a steel bar with a thickness of at least 4 mm, thread it through the cells, weld it to the pole, grabbing every 40-50 cm (in the photo on the left).

Another way: weld three or four rods with a diameter of 6 mm to each post. A mesh is put on them, they are bent.

If you are still paranoid about the fact that I will remove the mesh, you can drill two through holes in the post, insert a rod bent in the form of a horseshoe - U, capturing the mesh with its “back”. On the side where the ends come out, twist them and rivet them, or weld them.

Stretch

There is another problem: how to stretch the grid. If the design is simple - without slegs (transverse guides that are fixed between the posts), you can simply stretch the grid from one post to another. Just note that it is necessary to fasten sequentially to each pole. Fastening first through one, and then intermediate ones is a bad idea: there will definitely be uneven tension and sagging.

How to stretch the chain-link mesh so that there is no sagging? Insert the rod, grab it and pull with all your weight. The stretch will be quite significant. It is necessary to work with an assistant: one pulls and holds, the second fastens.

with wire

This type of fence is good because it is put up quickly. But the top edge may sag. If someone climbs through it, the top will definitely jam. It's unlikely to straighten it out. So that the top does not sag and “wrinkle”, a wire is pulled through the first row, it can be steel, or it can be in a plastic sheath so that it does not rust.

If wire is used, the technology can be simple: make a loop at the end, throw it over the last post. They unwind the wire trying to pull it, after two or three pillars make another loop, wrapping the wire around the pillar. So until the end of the flight. With the use of muscle strength, it will not be possible to pull enough, and the wire will inevitably sag. This is easy to fix. Take a thick metal rod, and use it to twist, pulling the wire. Is one twist not enough? A little further you do another one. So you tighten all the "spans". After that, you can begin to “pull” the grid, tying it to a stretched wire.

If you weld “ears” at the top of the column - a metal bar with holes, the wire can be attached to them. Pulling a piece of 2-3 meters is easier, but the work is slower.

You can also use special wire tensioners. Then, having fixed the wire on one pole, on the second it is passed into such a device as in the photo. It is fastened in a clamp, and then with the help of a key, the excess is wound onto the drum.

You can use a cable and lanyards - hooks with tie-clamps (in the rigging store). On one side, a cable is twisted around the pole, secured with a clamp. On the other hand, a lanyard is placed. Its middle part is threaded, so you can pull the cable.

A lanyard with a cable is another option.

Since the cable is more flexible, it can be passed through the links. Each one will be too long, after two or three cells - it's normal. One more thing: take a cable with a polymer sheath: it will not rust.

With welded wire

A steel bar with a diameter of 6-8 mm is threaded into the upper cell, or slightly lower. It is cut into pieces equal to the distance from one pillar to another. The threaded rod is welded to the pole.

Pay attention to the top of this chain-link. In this photo, you can clearly see that it has already begun to bloom. This is exactly the reason why it is necessary to take a mesh with curved ends. It just doesn’t unravel, and even without a wire or a bar, it holds the edge well.

With slugs (guides)

In even more rigid structures, after the pillars are installed, slugs are welded to them. These are cross pipes or wooden planks attached between posts. There may be one guide, or there may be two or three.

As you can see in the photo, in this case, you can also fasten the mesh with a wire. Obviously, all methods described above can be used. The only difference is that the mesh is attached not only vertically, but also horizontally. The photo below shows another way - with plates bolted, the ends riveted. This method can also be used when attaching to poles.

Chain link fence decoration

No matter how pleased you are with the fence at first, after a while there is a desire to either decorate it, or make it less transparent in order to close from prying eyes.

The first way - the most obvious - is to plant plants. If the neighbors do not mind, bindweeds or any other annual or perennial plants can be used.

The most natural way is to plant plants

If you just want to decorate your fence, you can do "embroidery". The cells are the same size, so you can embroider like on a canvas. There are two materials for embroidery: wire and colored twine.

Colored twine is good because you can "embroider" color pictures. Any that seem appropriate to you.

Not a very aesthetic, but quite effective way is to stretch a camouflage or shading net. These methods are good because they require a minimum of effort: they pulled it, grabbed it in a couple of places.

The shading mesh is almost opaque and the wind load will hardly change

The same effect is achieved if twigs or reeds are woven into the cells. The disadvantage of this option is the high labor intensity. It will take a lot of time.

Ready-made reed mats can reduce manufacturing costs. They are sold in rolls. All you need to do is unroll and fasten. But the cost is much higher than the previous option.

Another way is to use artificial needles sold in rolls. It is used in the manufacture of baskets and wreaths, but it can also be adapted to the fence.

Green wall - chain-link mesh decorated with artificial needles

Not so long ago, another way of decorating and, at the same time, reducing the visibility of a fence from a chain-link mesh appeared - a photo grid. This is a pattern printed on a polymer mesh. Sold in rolls (for tension fence) or fragments (for sectional). It is fastened with the help of eyelets and wire or clamps built into the surface. You can see an example of the effect in the photo below.