Double ceiling in the bath. Cover and ceiling. We make a bath ceiling

All building elements of the bath should perform two main functions: to be beautiful and in maximum degree keep warm. The temperature in the steam room can reach +100°C, such indicators put forward the highest requirements for the technology and materials for the construction of premises. Otherwise, they will have to be warmed up for a long time before washing, and the washing procedure itself should be performed “at an accelerated pace”, while the temperature in the rooms is comfortable.

Heat losses through ceiling coverings can reach 40% or more of the total, which explains why during the preparation of project documentation for a bath, such important attention is paid to ceiling sheathing. There are several options for sheathing bath ceilings, in this article we will focus on one of the most versatile and effective - a false ceiling.

As an example, we will consider the most commonly used option: pressed mineral wool 100 mm thick is used for insulation, vapor protection from aluminum foil, hydroprotection from polyethylene film. Interior decoration ceiling - natural wall paneling, the top covering of the ceiling - tongue-and-groove board 35 mm thick. The dimensions of the ceiling beams are 50 × 150 mm. Such dimensions and a list of building materials make it possible to convert the attic of the bath into an attic.

Video - False ceiling in the bath

You can also use other materials, use modern innovative membranes as vapor and hydro protection.

In terms of their physical characteristics, the new materials outperform the "older brothers" by ten percent, and the price is 1.5÷2 times more expensive. What material to choose in each case should be decided by each developer independently.

A few words must be said about loose heaters. We do not recommend taking them during the insulation of the ceilings of the bath, the effectiveness of these materials does not fully meet modern requirements for bath rooms.

Step 1. Measure the room and calculate the amount of materials.

Arithmetic calculations are easy to do, multiply the length of the room by its width and increase the result by 5 ÷ 7% (inevitable unproductive waste).

During measurements, pay attention to the symmetry of the ceiling. Sometimes there are cases when inept or unscrupulous builders do not respect the angles, the room is not square, but diamond-shaped. It is necessary to correct the marriage during the ceiling sheathing, you will have to cut the lining near the wall at an angle. Decide which wall to do this so that it is invisible.

There will be no big problems in the steam room and in the shower, but above optimal solution leveling the ceiling in the rest room will have to think about. It is necessary to take into account the furniture, the location of windows and doors. General advice– the uneven board of the ceiling sheathing must be in the very dark place premises. If the non-parallelism of the walls is quite big values, then the error should be divided by two walls, the spread in the width of the ceiling should be slightly compensated for one wall, and a little for the opposite.

Step 2 Mineral wool must be protected from the penetration of steam.

Or rather, not from steam, but from water condensate. The physical properties of heat-saving mineral wool are beyond praise, but it “works” so well only under one condition - the wool is dry. Water, like any liquid, is a good conductor heat, even its slight presence in cotton drastically worsens performance characteristics. Steam condenses only when the surface temperature drops to the dew point. This is an unstable indicator, it depends on both temperature and relative humidity. The higher the air humidity, the higher the dew point and vice versa.

In the vast majority of cases, the dew point will be in the thickness of the mineral wool, it can be at a height of two, five or nine centimeters, it does not matter, but always in the mineral wool. This means that condensation will form in the heater.

In addition to the loss of heat-shielding characteristics, moistening of mineral wool has another very unpleasant consequence. Due to the fact that the diameter of the cotton wool fibers is not more than 6 microns, the movement of air in the material is very difficult. As a result, water that has entered the cotton wool cannot natural way evaporate. Wet cotton adheres tightly to wooden structures, they are in such conditions for a long time have high humidity. High humidity and temperature are the worst enemies of all lumber.

Wet mineral wool is the worst enemy for wood

Vapor protection allows to prevent such negative phenomena.

It must be nailed with an overlap, the overlap of the strips is at least 10 centimeters, the joints must be sealed with a special film or tape. In other rooms of the bath, the use of cheaper options for vapor protection is allowed. There are a few more controversial issues to consider. correct execution vapor barrier.

There are tips to lay the vapor barrier from the side of the attic onto the already nailed ceiling lining. We do not recommend doing this for three reasons.

1. The first is that the ceiling beams of the floor in this case are not protected from the effects of steam. This negatively affects the time of their operation.
2. The second - the consumption of vapor barrier material increases. The distance between the ceiling beams is not more than a meter, the thickness is 50 mm, the height is 150 mm. Now count their number and multiply by the surface area of ​​each. You yourself will be surprised how much extra expensive vapor barrier material you have to buy.
3. Third, the risks of violating its integrity increase. Aluminum foil, to put it mildly, is no different great strength, and ceiling beams are not very clean surfaces. There are real risks of tearing the foil during installation or when filling the space with mineral wool. Other vapor barrier materials, too, in terms of physical tensile strength, wish the best.

Many people are concerned about the question: should I make a small clearance for ventilation between the lining of the ceiling and the vapor barrier?

There are tips for ventilation to the beams on top of the steam protection to nail slats with a thickness of 2 ÷ 3 centimeters, and to them already fix the lining of the finishing sheathing. Thus, a gap is made for ventilation between the ceiling and the vapor barrier. At first glance, everything is correct. But this is only at first glance.

Consider the need to perform such an operation in more detail.

1. Firstly, natural ventilation in the space between the ceiling sheathing and the vapor barrier layer is absent in principle. There are no slots for air inflow from below, no slots for its exit from above. The lining sweatily closes the technological slots, and a ceiling plinth is nailed along the perimeter of the ceiling.
2. Secondly, we have already said above that the temperature regime of the bath rooms “transfers” the dew point to the thermal insulation layer, and almost no condensate appears on the insulation.
3. And, thirdly, sheets of mineral wool will be laid on top, they will inevitably put pressure on the aluminum film, and it breaks very easily, the whole point of the vapor barrier is lost.

These are our beliefs, the decision is yours.

Step 3. Start nailing the lining at the farthest from front door walls.

Depending on the accuracy of the dimensions of the ceiling, the lining can be cut off in length all at once or customized for each board separately. There are two ways to fasten boards: in a groove with small nails about two centimeters long or in a wide plane with nails 40 ÷ 50 mm long.

The connection in the groove is imperceptible, looks more attractive. But to do it is more difficult, you need to gain a little experience. The fact is that if for some reason the groove cracks, then the strength of fixing the ceiling is significantly reduced. And it is no longer possible to drive another carnation next to it. For simple fastening lining is better to use galvanized nails. The boards must be pressed, make sure that the tenon / groove connection is evenly tight along the entire length of the room.

Do you have experience doing this kind of work? We advise you to beat off several parallel lines on the ceiling beams with a blued rope. These lines will allow you to constantly monitor the position of the lining and timely correct emerging deviations. Due to a small and almost imperceptible displacement in the tenon / groove assembly, it is possible to correct a parallelism error of 1.5 ÷ 2 centimeters after ten rows of lining. That's enough.

Step 4 When one board remains before the completion of the upholstery of the ceiling, take repeated measurements. The last board in all cases must be adjusted separately.

Sauna foil prices

bath foil

Video - Finishing the ceiling with clapboard

Step 5 nail ceiling plinths around the perimeter of the room.

At the corners, washed down at 90 ° can be done using an ordinary fixture, it is very cheap and is sold in every hardware store. If you don’t have it, you can make it yourself from flat boards about 10 centimeters wide and up to a centimeter thick.

Problems can arise if the corners in the room are not rectangular, in which case all ceiling skirting boards must be adjusted individually.

How it's done?

On this, the work from the steam room is completed, it's time to move to the attic.

Prices for putty for wood

putty for wood

Stages of ceiling sheathing from the side of the attic of the bath

There are options for insulation with foam or bulk materials, but they operational properties yield to cotton. If even during the construction of the bath, the dimensions of the pressed cotton wool were taken into account, you are lucky, the insulation will be completed quickly and with the proper quality. The distances between the centers of the ceiling beams must be taken by builders, taking into account the width of the mineral wool.

On each side, the free area is reduced by 2.5 centimeters with a beam thickness of 5 centimeters. At this value, the mineral wool sheets of the bases of the problems are compressed and provide a snug fit.

How to make insulation?

Step 1. Take the bathhouse to the attic insulation material, rolls of waterproofing and boards for top coating. If the attic is planned to be made exploitable, then floorboards with a thickness of at least 35 mm should be taken. You can, of course, do more complex options floor coverings with subfloor and top coat soft coatings or laminate, but we recommend this arrangement option.

Step 2 Mineral wool perfectly cut by mounting construction knife. Place a piece of flat board on the bottom of the cotton wool and cut the material according to the given dimensions. The movements of the knife should not only be progressive, but also up / down.

Cotton wool is not cut, but torn? There can be two reasons: you are trying to cut it too fast, or the edge of the knife has dulled. Professional cutting builders have special electric machine, but lovers should not buy it - it will cost too much.

Step 3 The dimensions of the sheet should be 2 ÷ 3 centimeters larger than the free niche on the ceiling. The thickness of mineral wool is not less than 10 centimeters. Place the insulation tightly, without gaps, without significant damage to the mineral wool.

Step 4 During the work, you can only walk on the floor beams, this is quite inconvenient. There are two options for insulation. First, lay the entire insulation, then lay the waterproofing over the entire area, and finally lay the floorboards or work in parts. You can put a heater about one and a half meters wide, immediately close it with a waterproofing layer and nail the boards and continue with such “jerks” over the entire surface of the ceiling. Both methods are almost equivalent, choose the most convenient for yourself.

Step 5 The top boards, in the case of an attic space used, are best taken veneered. During laying, you need to use special devices to tightly pull the boards to each other. Natural wood, if the manufacturer does not comply with the technology, warps after drying, without special devices it will not be possible to trim and tighten it tightly.

On this, work on the installation of a false ceiling is considered completed. But even here life can make its own changes. If you have solved all the problems with the chimneys before starting work with the ceilings, then at the same time with the sheathing there is nothing difficult to make their conclusion in the ceilings. There is a situation: you have already started using the bathhouse or have already completely sheathed the ceilings, as on someone's prompt you decided to make a beautiful functional fireplace in the relaxation room or put an additional decorative heating stove.

What to do if the ceiling is already sheathed with clapboard in all rooms of the bath? How to remove the chimney in accordance with all the rules? A stove-maker has come and is waiting for you to draw a chimney on the ceiling for him. How to deal with it “in a good way” and without large unforeseen financial losses?

The situation is unpleasant, but not tragic.

Mineral wool prices

mineral wool

Step 1. Find out where the stove maker plans to install the chimney. You must set a condition for the master - the distance between the walls of the chimney and the ceiling beams must be at least 20 centimeters. Let him think about how to mark the furnace and its components in order to withstand fire safety requirements.

Step 2 Draw a square on the ceiling for the dimensions of the chimney, the parameters of the square must exceed the parameters of the chimney by at least 20 cm around the entire perimeter.

Step 3 Cut a hole from the side of the bath room. This is much easier to do with an electric jigsaw. In the corner of the square, drill a hole for the jigsaw knife with a drill, insert it into this hole and cut the sheathing boards along the line.

If there is no electric jigsaw, it is quite convenient to work with a circular grinder (grinder), but instead of a stone, insert a disc with victorious teeth. Work with a small light grinder, the diameter of the disc should be no more than 250 mm. The rest of the work needs to be done from the side of the attic. Pick up your tools and materials there.

We are preparing a place for the chimney passage through the ceiling. This is what the hole will look like

Step 4 It is required to transfer the dimensions and location of the hole for the chimney to the attic floor. This is done simply. Using a drill, drill four holes in the floor covering at the corners of the opening. Drilling must be done from the side interior, try to keep the tool in a vertical position. Before starting work, you need to carefully cut off and remove the mineral wool around the perimeter of the opening. From the side of the attic, draw the size of the opening using the existing holes in the corners and cut out the boards.

Step 5 Now you need to fix the ends of the cut boards, otherwise they will always sag. The cut ends of the boards should be especially carefully fixed in the attic, because there you plan to make an exploitable room. To do this, you will have to make a supporting frame from boards 50 × 150 mm around the perimeter of the opening.

Step 6. Remove the distances between the ceiling beams adjacent to the opening, cut two pieces of boards 50 × 150 mm to these dimensions.

Step 7 Attach line segments to beams. You'll have to sweat a little, because the frame has to be done with an existing finish. Use to fix long self-tapping screws, put an extension on the head under the sprocket. This will make it possible to mount under the floor boards. In order for the self-tapping screws to twist more easily, prepare holes in the wooden elements for them. The diameter of the holes should be one millimeter smaller than the diameter of the self-tapping screw. During fixing, firmly hold the parts in the desired position, make sure that the pieces of boards during fastening do not fall below the level of the floor beams. Fasten two short ones to the installed long jumpers on the other sides of the opening for the chimney.

Step 8 After the stove maker completes the stove chimney, from the side of the rest room, put in place mineral wool around the entire perimeter of the chimney. Cover the opening with sheet metal, preferably galvanized steel. From the side of the attic, the holes are also closed with sheet metal.

Prices for a disc with victorious teeth

disc with victorious teeth

Conclusion

In the article, we considered only one of the many existing options for arranging false ceilings. You should not take our advice as a dogma, every builder has his own secrets of doing work, everyone manages to do something better than others taught him. This is great, try and you can improve and change the technology of work to suit your personal needs, capabilities and preferences. However, before any change in the technology we recommend, think carefully, try to anticipate the consequences of your decisions several steps ahead. What is written in this article is based not only on positive experience, but also on mistakes made “out of inexperience”.

A bathhouse is a complex functional structure, to which special requirements for operation are imposed. A well-equipped bath ceiling ensures the maintenance of an optimal temperature regime in the premises, protects against the negative effects of external factors.

To ensure a long service life of the ceiling, it is necessary to take into account its design features, as well as the choice of materials for construction and decoration.

Requirements

To ensure the durability and reliability of the entire structure, the ceiling in the bath must meet a number of important operational requirements:

• High thermal insulation characteristics. To reduce heat loss in bath rooms, the ceiling structure must have good thermal insulation. This will ensure the rapid accumulation of thermal energy, reduce the consumption of fuel material and prevent the rapid cooling of the steam room.
• Moisture resistance. As a rule, wood is used for the construction of baths, which requires additional protection against high humidity and hot steam. For these purposes, special antiseptic impregnations and varnishes. However, wood is not an absolutely hermetic material, therefore it is able to pass excess moisture to the heat-insulating layer. To protect the insulating base of the ceiling from moisture, it is necessary to install a vapor barrier.
• Mechanical strength and reliability. The ceiling structure must be of increased strength to ensure safe operation the entire building. When developing a bath project, one should take into account the weight of the finished structure, the mass of the insulation, finishing materials and, if an attic space is provided, the weight of the furniture and equipment that are located inside.
• Long service life. The bath is being built for decades, so the ceiling must be not only practical, but also durable, made of high-quality and safe materials.

materials

For the competent arrangement of the ceiling structure, an important step is the choice of building, finishing, heat and vapor barrier materials. In this case, what is the best way to make a ceiling in order to get a reliable and durable construction? Experts recommend giving preference to safe, environmentally friendly, practical and durable materials.

1. For ceiling construction. The ceiling ceiling in the bath is erected from coniferous wood, resistant to decay and elevated temperatures. In addition, coniferous boards or timber are cheap materials that are easy to handle and install. Ceiling beams, draft ceiling and attic floor are built from softwood.
2. For decorative finishes. Deciduous wood is used as finishing materials - alder, linden, aspen, larch, oak. wood finish the ceiling in the bath is resistant to high temperatures, high humidity, easy to process and install.
3. For thermal insulation. The thickness of the heat-insulating layer for the bath ceiling should be 30 cm, which allows you to keep heat in the steam room for a long time. fire resistant and safe heaters- cotton wool on a mineral and basalt basis. They are resistant to burning, rotting, negative impact moisture and steam. To save thermal insulation characteristics it is recommended to use them in conjunction with waterproofing materials. To reduce the cost of construction, more affordable analogues are used - sawdust and natural clay. The finished clay mortar is laid in a thin layer on the rough flooring from the board in the attic, then covered with sawdust, shavings or sand.
4. For waterproofing. Provide protection of a heater from the increased humidity and steam. The best option for waterproofing - double-sided foil membranes.
5. For vapor barrier. They provide protection against the penetration of hot steam through the ceiling structure into the insulation layer or into the attic. As an insulator, film foamed polyethylene, glassine and vapor barrier membranes. The main requirement for the material is the ability to operate at an air heating temperature of up to 125 degrees.
6. Fasteners. When arranging the ceiling, it is allowed to use galvanized, copper or brass fasteners.

For the construction and decoration of the ceiling structure, you can not use:

• plywood, chipboard and OSB;
• polystyrene and foam boards;
• mounting foam for sealing;
• polyethylene-based films;
• damaged or deformed wood.

Mounting methods

Floors and ceilings in the bath can be made one of three ways:

1. Hemmed. The ceiling device provides for an attic room for storing bath fixtures and utensils. A distinctive characteristic of the design is the presence of a log ceiling, which is mounted on the last crown of the log house. Such a system is simple and available for self-installation.
2. Flat . Suitable for small-sized bath buildings that are not equipped with an attic and do not have floor beams. Such a design is simple and easy to implement. The permissible span length should not exceed 2.5 meters.
3. Panel. Technically complex structure, which is built from wooden boxes filled with insulating material. Installation of such a ceiling requires the involvement of outside help.

false ceiling

Installing a false ceiling in a bath with your own hands is technically difficult, but possible. Such a design is characterized by the high cost of building materials.

The erection of a false ceiling in a log cabin bath is carried out in the following order:

1. Preparation of a ceiling frame from a beam with a section of 5 × 15 cm. Laying the beams at a distance of 55 to 95 cm for strapping. A special hole is made for the chimney square shape according to the pipe diameter. Wood is treated with antiseptic impregnation.
2. Laying a vapor barrier material with an aluminum protective layer, with fixation from the inside of the room to the ceiling beams on metal brackets with an overlap of 10 cm. Gluing the joints with construction tape.
3. Installation of the crate on the vapor barrier in compliance with technological gaps for natural ventilation.
4. Installation of decorative lining made of hardwood. Thermal insulation and waterproofing of the ceiling in the attic. Work is underway on the flooring of the insulating and waterproofing material overlap with the processing of joints with construction tape. Fixing to the ceiling structure with metal brackets. Compliance air gap at 3–5 cm.
5. Mounting floor covering- plywood or floorboard. wooden base carefully treated with antiseptics.

Important! To fix the main structural elements, galvanized nails with wide hats are used. In length, they should exceed the thickness of the wooden board twice. If necessary, nails can be replaced with self-tapping screws or clamps of the same size.

Decking ceiling

This is the fastest and most affordable way to arrange a ceiling structure, since its cost is much lower than that of a false ceiling. It can be used in a bath from boards, which does not provide for an attic.

Step by step guide to how to make a deck ceiling:

1. As a basis for the ceiling, rough boards 40 cm thick are used, laid inside bath room on the walls and fixed between themselves with thin bars at a distance of 40–80 cm from each other. So collect the entire ceiling shield.
2. A vapor barrier material is laid on the installed ceiling frame to create an airtight layer. Fixing the material to the boards with metal staples.
3. Next is the insulation flooring. It is easier to choose mineral or basalt wool, but if use is foreseen bulk materials- expanded clay, clay, sand or earth, additional arrangement of enclosing wooden elements from the board will be required.
4. A waterproofing layer is laid on top of the thermal insulation layer to ensure additional protection from exposure to moisture and steam.
5. At the end is carried out decorative trim wooden lining.

panel ceiling

The main advantages of this design are its cost-effectiveness and durability, because for its assembly, the remnants of lumber that have been preserved after the construction of the bath can be used.

To properly sheathe the ceiling with panel slabs, all work is performed in the following order:

1. Preparation of two bars with a length equal to the width of the opening, with allowances of 5 cm on each side. The bars are installed on flat surface parallel to each other with a step of 50 cm. The structure is lined with a board, the length of which exceeds the width of the opening by 10 cm. As a result, the plank floor is 5 cm wider than the base of the box on each side.
2. FROM inside the ceiling panel is sheathed with a vapor barrier material.
3. To prevent possible distortion of the panel, the connection of individual parts is carried out with temporary fixators.
4. Finished ceiling panel mounted to the upper rims of the frame of the supporting wall structure, taking into account additional installation roof truss system. Jute fiber is placed between the panels for insulation.
5. After mounting the ceiling base, the inner base of the panel is filled with insulating material and sealed with waterproofing. To facilitate the construction, wool on a fiberglass or basalt base up to 10 cm thick can be used as a heater.
6. The upper part of the structure is sheathed with tightly laid boards.

Important! During the operation of the bath, condensation may form on the upper part of the ceiling sheathing. To prevent this phenomenon, the ceiling sheathing is performed at a slope of 6 degrees.

Finally, a few tips for proper arrangement ceiling structure in the bath:

1. If the bath project provides for the presence of an attic, then when installing the ceiling, it is additionally worth considering an entrance hatch with a retractable ladder.
2. Decorative finishing of the ceiling surface is carried out after the preparation of the floor base. The final stage is wall cladding.
3. To reduce or prevent possible heat loss in the room, it is necessary to take care of high-quality and reliable thermal insulation of the ceiling structure.
4. To obtain a perfectly flat ceiling surface, the first floor boards must be laid in level. Otherwise, this will lead to deformation of the finished structure.
5. For the construction and decoration of the ceiling, it is recommended to use environmentally friendly materials that, under the influence high temperatures do not emit hazardous substances.

It is quite easy to build a reliable and durable ceiling in a bath building. To do this, you need to decide on a suitable option for the ceiling structure, an assortment of building and finishing materials. Due to the increased strength, durability and practicality, the most popular are hemmed and floor ceilings.

When building a bath, it is impossible to ignore the question of how to build and insulate the ceiling. Although this process It seems very complicated at first glance, everything is extremely simple.

For a wooden bath or foam block bath, the ceiling structure can have three mounting options:

• hemmed;
• Grazing;
• Panel.

hemmed

The design of the false ceiling for the bath consists in creating a frame base from floor beams, on which all constituent elements. During the construction process, the beams are sheathed with tongue-and-groove or edged boards. A material for vapor and thermal insulation is laid on a shield of boards, which can be used as mineral wool slabs, sawdust, shavings or expanded clay. From the attic side, the insulation is covered with waterproofing, and then sheathed with cut or uncut boards (see Insulation for the bath ceiling).

Such ceiling device it is better to use it when building a bath with an attic, since in this case the whole process can be carried out by one person, without resorting to the help of specialists. However, this is the most expensive type of flooring, since long boards and massive beams require considerable investments. This design is used in the construction of a block log house.

Grazing

Decking ceiling laid directly on the surface of the walls. In this case, the distance between the walls should be from 2.5 m, and the thickness of the boards should be from 5 cm. The laid boards are covered with a vapor barrier and mineral insulation. The next layer is waterproofing, and only then is done wood flooring. In the presence of a panel ceiling, the manufacture of each sector must be performed according to a separate template. Do-it-yourself installation of panel plates is rather complicated due to the large mass, therefore, the plates themselves are first installed, and only then they are insulated and insulated. However, even in this case, the help of several people is needed.

The installation process of the flooring should not cause difficulties, but it can only be used when arranging baths small size(no more than 2.5 m wide) and a small ceiling height. The construction of this ceiling does not require large financial, labor and time costs.

Since in this option the thermal insulation finish is not protected, it is only suitable for structures without an attic. There is also one significant drawback: in the case of repairs to ceilings or rafters, the heat insulator will have to be completely dismantled.

Panel

To make your own panel ceiling you need to stock up on shields in advance. What are shields made of? bearing beams, inner lining, vapor barrier, external drain, thermal insulation and waterproofing. To insulate such a ceiling, it is better to use mineral wool or glass wool slabs. Thus, you will reduce the mass of the shield itself and increase the energy-saving qualities.

One condition must be met - wooden bath the insulation layer should not be less than 100 mm. To protect the ceiling from heat loss, a moisture-resistant and heat-saving sealant is laid between the shields. As a rule, foil insulation is taken for this, or felt protected by foil. When using shields, for the manufacture of the frame of which bars with a cross section of more than 5 * 10 cm were used, installation can be carried out even without the use of ceiling beams. This is due to the strength of the frame itself. After the process of installing a bath ceiling is completed, measures can be taken to insulate it. This is done by laying a vapor barrier material on the waterproofing.

Having finished with laying the waterproofing and insulation, a wooden flooring is made on top of them from boards, fixing them with nails to the ceiling beams. At the junction of the panels, a material is laid that prevents the penetration of steam and cold. To fasten the panels, you must use boards, or fix them on the upper beams of the log house.

According to professionals, hemmed construction is the best option, therefore, we recommend that you take this advice into account before deciding how to make the ceiling in the bath. Despite the high cost, its operational life is much longer than other options. Panel overlap is inferior to it due to the complexity of installation and subsequent repair.

See short video, which shows how the ceiling in the bath should look like at the initial stage of construction:

Ceiling vapor barrier

Since hot steam predominates in the bath, which tends to rise up, ceiling manufactured with this feature in mind. Provision must be made for steam isolation through openings in the ceiling. Installation of the flooring is carried out in the following order: insulation; measures to protect against moisture ingress into the attic; materials that contribute to the accumulation of hot steam at the top of the room. To achieve this result, you need to follow the following step-by-step instructions:

1. If the bath is built of logs, boards and blocks with a thickness of at least 6 cm can be used for ceiling sheathing. A vapor barrier is laid on top, which serves aluminium foil, waxed paper or thick cardboard impregnated with drying oil;
2. Soft clay is laid on the vapor barrier layer, on top of which a heater spreads;
3. Any suitable material can act as a heater (expanded clay, sawdust mixed with a clay solution, sand or mineral insulation). At the same time, the thickness of the insulating material should not be less than 15 cm and do not forget about the chimney;
4. A screed of cement and sand is arranged on the insulation. However, in the case of using the attic as a living space, it is necessary to use durable floorboards for the flooring.

To make the finishing lining of the ceiling, you can use natural wood (coniferous trees, larch or aspen) by looking at a few a photo and choosing suitable option decor. However, the boards must be carefully processed and not have knots, cracks on their surface, be well dried and treated with protective agents. By following these recommendations, you can significantly increase the service life of not only the ceiling itself, but the entire structure as a whole.

1. Top cover

2. Ceiling

Important for any building quality installation ceiling. Ceiling is the first and most important barrier to internal heat. Because warm air accumulates at the top, it is obvious that the leaky ceiling is the main source of heat loss. This is especially pronounced at elevated temperature conditions baths.

The height of the ceiling in my bath is 2.2m. However, to organize a steam room "in accordance with all the rules", I would advise making the ceiling height - 2.5 m.

over draft ceiling counter-planks are nailed exactly under the mats - planks 10 cm wide and 20-25 mm thick, on top of which it is mounted finishing ceiling from a lining or something like that. The boards of the finishing ceiling lie parallel to the draft. Lining material - any, including conifers. Rumors that spruce or pine boards in the bath are leaking resin are greatly exaggerated.- a droplet will appear somewhere, so it is easy to remove it. Do not forget that pine is a strong energy donor and, therefore, this material is the most preferable for a bath.

In the steam room, the ceiling is made in exactly the same way, only the rough ceiling can be made from thicker boards (40-60mm thick).

It is not allowed to use plywood, fiberboard, chipboard for filing the ceiling because these materials are made with adhesives based on formaldehyde and phenol, which are toxic carcinogens.
For your information: in Germany, Finland, Sweden, the use of these materials in housing construction forbidden.

3. Vapor barrier

The main task vapor barrier prevent the penetration of warm, moist air into the insulation, otherwise moisture from the air will condense inside the insulation, the insulation will get wet and lose its insulating properties.

4. Insulation.

In Belarusian villages, such heaters were also used:

1. Backfilling (laying) with dry maple leaves in a layer of 10 - 15 cm, on top of which a layer of soil 5 cm thick was poured. Under this backfill, vapor barrier was not made, since the leaves are laid horizontally and do a good job of this task themselves.

2. Liquid clay is mixed with sawdust in proportions: clay - 1 part, sawdust - 3 parts. Clay is a good natural antiseptic and does not allow sawdust to rot or mold. The disadvantage of this method is that a layer of such insulation 10 - 15 cm thick dries for several months.

3. Bonfire - a product of flax processing - a very effective insulation, however, it is easily flammable and combustible. To reduce the fire hazard, 3 parts of the fire were mixed with 1 part of the soil and laid in a layer of 10 - 15 cm.

You should not contemptuously protrude your lip - these cheap old-fashioned ways in terms of thermal insulation qualities can give odds to many newfangled expensive heaters. And in terms of environmental friendliness - in general, out of competition!

I would especially like to dwell on the inadmissibility of using insulating materials such as polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam in the bath.

All these substances emit formaldehyde, styrene and other toxic substances. When heated, the release rate increases, and at temperatures above 60 ° C, destruction processes begin to develop in them with a change in volume and an intensive release of toxic substances.

Since in the bath the rate of metabolic processes in a person increases dramatically, all these poisons are successfully absorbed by the body through the skin and respiratory tract, which eventually leads to a whole bunch of diseases, including cancer. Styrene is especially dangerous for the female body.

Here are excerpts from an article by Evgeny Shirokov, Ph.D. tech. Sciences, Chairman of the Board of the Belarusian Branch of the International Academy of Ecology.

Architect Dmitry Tikhashin (Belarus): “Everything new is a well-forgotten old… In the early 1980s, the Dalstroyproekt Institute (Magadan), of which I was an employee at that time, developed and implemented a constructive system in the Severovostokzoloto Administration prefabricated buildings and structures in hard-to-reach areas of the extreme north-east of the USSR (Magadan region, Kamchatka).

The system was based on the lungs aluminum panels with "stuffing" - expanded polystyrene 200 - 250 mm thick. The helicopter transported up to 300 m³ of enclosing structures per flight, the load on permafrost minimal - lightweight foundations, sufficient resistance to heat transfer ...

For hard-to-reach northern regions- perfect option. Many buildings were built: production workshops, gold processing factories, household houses and a series of two-story residential buildings - in the village of Bilibino, in Chukotka, and in other places ...

However, after 5 years, the Ministry of Health of the USSR, after verification and research, which were of a closed nature, decided to ban further construction and living in such houses. The reason for checking and making a decision was the numerous facts of unfavorable pregnancy in the houses of this series. Then it was officially believed that formaldehyde and other emissions from polystyrene foam, their high concentration in residential premises, were probably to blame.

The story is similar with the well-known "beams" at BAM - the dream of the newlyweds - the builders of the legendary highway. Many still remember well these metal "barrels", insulated with polystyrene foam from the inside. Approximately the same constructive scheme, the same consequences for pregnant women (families were young, and they were settled in the first place), and the same result - a ban on production 5 years after large-scale implementation, despite the presentation of high state awards to developers. It is interesting that the residents of these houses did not feel any smells or discomfort.”

So, men, if you want to have healthy children and grandchildren, then draw conclusions ...

Calculation of the thickness of the insulation.

At calculation of insulation thickness We will be guided by the following SNiP:
SNiP 23-02-2003 "Thermal protection of buildings".
SNiP 23-01-99 "Construction climatology"
SNiP II-3-79 "Construction heat engineering".

These documents are easy to find in the public domain in Runet. It is enough to type their name in the search box. I advise you to download, as they will be needed for calculations.

Calculation procedure:

1. According to Table 1 "Climatic parameters of the cold period of the year" SNiP 23-01-99 "Construction climatology"

Determine Dd - Degree Day heating period, °С day according to the formula

Dd=Nheats (Tint - Text)

where,
Tint - the calculated average temperature of the internal air of the building, equal to 21 ° C.
Tex - average outdoor temperature during the heating period (column 12 of Table 1)
Noheat - duration, days, of the heating period, taken for a period with an average daily outdoor temperature of not more than 8 °C. (column 11 of Table 1)

Determine Dd - Degree-day of the heating period in the village of Babenki, Ivanovo Region. RF.

According to Table 1 of SNiP 23-01-99 "Construction climatology" we determine the necessary parameters for the city of Ivanovo.

Noheat = 219 days; Text = -3.9°C;

Then,
Dd=Nheats (Tin - Text) = 219 (21-(-3.9))=219 (21+3.9)= 5453°С day;

Dd = 5453°С day;

2. According to Table 4 “Rated values ​​of heat transfer resistance of enclosing structures” SNiP 23-02-2003 “Thermal protection of buildings”, we determine the normalized value of heat transfer resistance Rreq, m ° С / W, substituting the obtained value Dd in the appropriate column and column;

Determine the normalized value of heat transfer resistance Rreq in the village of Babenki, Ivanovo Region. RF.

According to Table 4 "Rated values ​​of heat transfer resistance of enclosing structures" SNiP 23-02-2003 "Thermal protection of buildings"

In column 2 - "Public, except for the above, administrative and domestic, industrial and other buildings and premises with a wet or wet regime",
in column 5 - "Attic floors, over unheated undergrounds and basements",

We find the normalized value of heat transfer resistance Ro for the value Dd closest to the obtained Dd=5453°C day.

In our case, this is 6000°C day.

For this value Rreq = 3.4 m·°С/W;

Rreq = 3.4 m °C/W;

3. Determine the thickness of the insulation:

where,
R - heat transfer resistance of the insulation layer, m ° C / W;
λ - Thermal conductivity coefficient of the selected insulation, W / (m ° C), which is determined according to SNiP II-3-79 "Construction heating engineering" Appendix 3 "Thermal performance of building materials and structures"

R=Rreq-R1-R2-...-Rn

where,
Rreq - normalized value of heat transfer resistance, m °C/W
R1,R2,...,Rn - heat transfer resistance of layers of all structures (except for the insulation layer), which are located between the room air and the outside air, m · ° С / W. It can be: finishing ceiling, draft ceiling, attic floor, roof materials.

where,
Tn - structure thickness, m;
λn - coefficient of thermal conductivity of the material from which this structure is made, W / (m ° C) .
Determined according to SNiP II-3-79 "Construction heat engineering" Appendix 3 "Thermotechnical indicators of building materials and structures"

Determine the thickness of the basalt wool insulation in the attic of a bathhouse in the village of Babenki, Ivanovo Region. RF.

Between indoor air and outdoor air are the following constructions(except for the insulation layer):

Finished pine ceiling (lining), thickness 1.5cm;
Draft spruce ceiling (board), thickness 3cm;
Pine loft floor (board), thickness 3cm;
Rough roof decking made of spruce (board), thickness 2.5cm;
Slate, thickness 0.6cm;

λ pine=0.18W/(m °C)
λ spruce \u003d 0.18 W / (m ° C)
λ slate \u003d 0.35 W / (m ° C)
λ basvat \u003d 0.06 W / (m ° C).

Then the heat transfer resistance of the insulation layer:
R=Rreq - Rfine ceiling - Rrough ceiling - Rloft floor - Rrough flooring - Rslate=
3.4 - 0.015 / 0.18 - 0.03 / 0.18 - 0.03 / 0.18 - 0.025 / 0.18 - 0.006 / 0.35 \u003d 2.68m ° C / W;

The thickness of the insulation is:
T=R λ=2.68 0.06= 0.16m;

The minimum thickness of basalt wool insulation is 16 centimeters.

5.Attic space

Attic space- comfortable and the right part buildings. If the roof slope is 35 - 45 degrees, then in the attic you can make a spacious room with a ceiling height of 2.0 - 2.2 m. This room can be used as a rest room, as a room for storing brooms, or as a room for feasts, etc.

If we make a room in the attic (an uninsulated attic), then it is necessary to lay a floor in the attic.

On the draft floor we lay a finishing floor from any material that matches your taste and financial capabilities.

For example:

Batten
Moisture resistant laminate
Parquet
And others...

When laying the floor, ventilation slots 2 - 2.5 cm between the walls and the finished floor are also left without fail.

6. Hatch to the attic

This design fully provides reliable thermal insulation.

The ceiling in the bath with your own hands must be equipped, strictly observing the technology. The steam generated in the steam room accumulates at the top. If there is a poor heat-insulating cake under the lining, condensation will appear upon contact with cold air. Moisture will eventually destroy the insulation and wooden floor elements.

Bath ceiling installation

To get effective ceiling in the bath with your own hands, even before starting work and purchasing materials, you need to know exactly what nodes it consists of:

1. Overlap. Concrete floor slabs can be laid on cinder block, brick buildings. However, most often baths are built of wood. The cover is made from the same material. The stacked beams form the framework of the structure.
2. Facing. From the inside of the bath, the ceiling is lined with clapboard. Inside the steam room use only wooden board. For decorating other rooms suitable plastic.
3. Vapor barrier. The canvas is laid under the cladding to protect the thermal insulation from steam.
4. Insulation. thick layer thermal insulation material laid between the floor beams under the skin.
5. Waterproofing. Moisture-proof material protects the thermal insulation from the side of the attic.

None of the listed layers can be excluded from the overlap of the bath.

Important! There are membranes for vapor and waterproofing with one-sided passage of moisture.

The canvas removes steam from the thermal insulation, but does not let it go in the opposite direction. Such membranes must be correctly positioned in relation to the insulation.

Bath ceiling height

For a home building, the height of the bath from floor to ceiling is calculated by the simplest formula: the tallest person in the family stands at full height, stretches his arms up and add another 50 cm to the resulting value. The average height to the ceiling is from 2.2 to 2.6 m .

Sometimes, by lowering the ceiling in the bath, the owner solves the problem of accelerating the heating of the room. The idea is correct. However, it is impossible to lower the ceiling below 2.1 m for a number of important reasons:

1. Hot air is constantly at the top. Inside the bath with a low ceiling, there is an accelerated mixing of cold and warm streams, which affects the well-being of steaming people.
2. in the bath with low ceiling it is more difficult to equip high-quality lighting, ventilation, and maintain optimal humidity.

If you adhere to the standard, the ceiling height in the bath should be 2.1-2.4 m. The indicator varies depending on the size of the building, the proposed maximum number visitors, the functional purpose of each room.

Advice! It is impossible to overestimate the ceiling of the bath. The consumption of energy resources will increase.

Separately, the height of the ceiling in the steam room is calculated, which is associated with the location of the shelves. It is customary to install sunbeds in two or three tiers. The visitor chooses the most comfortable place. The higher the shelf level, the hotter the ambient air.

If we take into account the norms of SNiP, then a minimum distance of 1.1 m should be maintained between the lounger of the upper tier and the ceiling sheathing. For steam rooms of public baths, the indicator has been increased to 1.85 m.

The ceiling in the bath: what is better to do

When installing the ceiling in the owner's bath, the question is what materials will be needed. For an accurate answer, we must again return to the layered construction:

1. Cover frame. Create a draft ceiling in the bath from coniferous wood. Pine is considered a budget and easily accessible material. Cedar or larch has an extended service life.
2. Facing. Sheathe the ceiling in the steam room can only be wooden clapboard. The board is used from wood that poorly transmits heat: linden, aspen or alder. In other rooms of the bath, pine lining is suitable. It can be sheathed with plastic, which is especially good for a shower room.

   Important! It is impossible to sheathe the ceiling of fiberboard, MDF and other materials from pressed wood waste. From exposure to dampness, the lining swells, deforms, and rots.

3. Vapor barrier. For all bath rooms, except for the steam room, any vapor barrier material is suitable. Inside the steam room, the ceiling is sheathed with a membrane that can withstand elevated temperatures up to + 120 ° C.
4. Insulation. From natural materials, expanded clay is used, kneading clay with straw or sawdust, peat. For reliable insulation, a layer with a minimum thickness of 300 mm is needed, which is unprofitable due to the reduction in attic space. For modern baths used for sheathing non-combustible thermal insulation from mineral wool.
5. Waterproofing. When using natural heaters, it is possible to cover the ceiling from the attic side with roofing felt or film. The purpose of waterproofing is to protect the thermal insulation from water in the event of a roof leak. If the ceiling is sheathed with mineral wool, it is better to cover the thermal insulation from the side of the attic with a membrane that can pass steam in one direction. Through such waterproofing, the remnants of accidentally penetrating moisture will evaporate from the insulation.

When covering the ceiling, all elements of the pie will need to be fixed. Nails and hardware are used only with a galvanized coating. Inside the steam room, the lining is sometimes nailed with copper-plated nails.

Important! The main requirement for the choice of material for sheathing is fire safety, environmental friendliness.

What materials can not be used

The bathhouse is a building for a specific purpose. Aggressive environment will not allow the use of any material for sheathing. Cladding boards and panels made from compressed wood waste are not suitable for every room. From the slightest moisture, they are deformed. Flammable materials must not be used as insulation. Styrofoam and expanded polystyrene are only suitable for warming the floor of a dressing room or washing room, but it is advisable to fill it with a concrete screed.

PET film, roofing material is not used when lining the bath. The material can be laid instead of waterproofing the ceiling from the side of the cold attic. However, it is better to cover the area above the steam room with a heat-resistant membrane.

It is impossible to use wooden lining with signs of mold for sheathing. In a humid environment, the fungus will quickly spread to all structural elements. Inside the bath there will be an unpleasant smell of rot. The ceiling will collapse quickly.

Attention! Unacceptable use polyurethane foam inside the steam room for sealing joints and sealing cracks.

Ceiling device in a bath with a cold attic

A cold roof consists of lathing, waterproofing and roofing. Thermal insulation in such a pie is not provided. General device The ceiling in a bath with a cold attic consists of the same layers of sheathing, but they can be laid in two ways:

1. Outside. The whole cake of sheathing from steam, heat, waterproofing is laid from the side of the attic to the ceiling of the bath. From above equip a rough floor.
2. From within. The sheathing pie is attached to the ceiling from the side of the bath on an additionally mounted frame, and sheathed with cladding on top.

The heat-insulating cake occupies useful space. On which side to place the skin, the owner himself decides.

Types of ceilings in the bath

Depending on the selected materials and the design of the building, one of three types of ceiling is equipped inside the bath. With the design are determined immediately at the stage of construction of the walls.

false ceiling

The hemming type design is used in a log cabin. The ceiling is durable, regardless of the size of the building. The design is ideal for a two-story bath with an equipped attic for a rest room.

The basis of the false ceiling is formed by strong beams. Usually they are made from the same log as the log house. The filing of the ceiling elements is carried out from below to the beams. A rough or finishing floor is attached from above. The second option is chosen for the residential second floor. Between the skins, the void is filled with thermal insulation.

Important! In addition to the log house, the hemming construction is suitable for a bath made of bricks, foam blocks and frame type.

panel type ceiling

The panel type of construction is convenient in terms of economy. Sheathing is assembled in the form of separate boxes from scraps of tongue-and-groove boards. The internal void is filled with the remnants of the existing thermal insulation. Attach the sheathing boxes to the ceiling of the bath, where the frame is pre-equipped. The advantage of technology is to simplify repairs. To change the rotten area, you do not need to remove the entire skin. It is enough to dismantle the problematic box, and install a new element of the same size in its place. Of the minuses of the skin, the difficulty of sealing the joints between each box is distinguished.

Bath ceiling floor type

A specific type of sheathing is applicable for small baths. The design difference is the absence of floor beams. They are replaced by boards laid on brick or block walls. In the case of a log house, the elements are cut into the logs using the selected groove. For big bath overlap will not work, as long boards will sag. The difficulty arises with the arrangement of reliable vapor and thermal insulation. You can neither walk in the attic nor use the space for storing things.

Do-it-yourself ceiling insulation in the bath

Rural residents in the old fashioned way sometimes insulate the ceiling in the bath with their own hands with natural material. The choice of such thermal insulation is explained by availability. Baths built according to modern projects are sheathed with factory-made insulation. The material has a lower thermal conductivity, due to which the thickness of the ceiling cake decreases.

Material selection

Natural heaters are environmentally friendly. Most of the materials are provided free of charge. The most popular insulation is brown clay mixed with straw, wood shavings or sawdust. If there are peat bogs nearby, you can get another natural insulation for free. Expanded clay will have to be bought, but its advantage is low weight, which reduces the load on the floor.

The natural material is resistant to steam. It easily absorbs and does not interfere with the evaporation of moisture. The disadvantage is the high thermal conductivity. A thick layer will have to be poured onto the ceiling, and this is already an extra load on the walls and foundation, reducing the useful space of the attic or bath.

Mineral wool is used from factory-made thermal insulation for a bath. The material is non-flammable, environmentally friendly, lightweight. Rolled mineral wool is more difficult to fix. Easier to lay between the beams basalt slabs. Mineral wool is produced with a foil coating, which is ideal for insulating a bath. The material has only one drawback. Mineral wool is saturated with moisture if the vapor barrier is broken.

The video tells about the choice of insulation for cladding the bath:

Required Tools

To sheathe the ceiling, a complex tool is not needed. The list is limited to the essentials:

• wood saw;
• screwdriver;
• roulette;
• level;
• construction stapler;
• a hammer.

A jigsaw, a grinder, a circular saw will help speed up the sheathing process. Aluminum tape, self-tapping screws, staples for a stapler, nails are prepared from materials.

Step by step installation

All natural heaters are laid at least 30 cm thick on a layer of clay putty, which acts as a vapor barrier. Another layer of putty is applied on top. If the attic is non-residential, the cake is left in this design. When the top floor is an attic, the cake is covered with a vapor barrier, a subfloor is laid. Above is a cake made of artificial thermal insulation and a finished floor.

Basalt wool slabs are laid in cells wooden frame. On both sides, the thermal insulation is covered with a vapor barrier. The slab should fit snugly between the beams. From the side of the bath, the cake is pressed with slats of the counter-lattice, on which the lining is attached.

Bath ceiling decoration

Sheathing of the ceiling in the steam room is carried out only with wooden clapboard. It is preferable to use linden, alder, aspen. Plastic is suitable for other bath rooms, but natural material is better for sheathing.

If the ceiling is made with a draft ceiling, the need for sheathing is determined by its quality. Well-fitted boards will last without cladding. However, the draft ceiling is less beautiful and has flaws.

The ceiling is being finished in a bath with sheathing with foil material. First, rails 40-50 mm thick are attached to the draft ceiling. The foil vapor barrier is shot with a stapler. Joints are glued with aluminum tape.

How to sheathe the ceiling in the bath clapboard

They sheathe the ceiling in the steam room with their own hands with a clapboard of class "A" or "B". Boards are more expensive, but they are perfectly smooth without knots and other defects. Fasten the lining to the bars of the counter-lattice with nails or hardware with stainless steel. Near the walls around the entire perimeter of the room, a gap is left for ventilation of the space formed between the cladding and the draft ceiling.

At the end of the sheathing, the lining is treated with protective impregnations and a special varnish for the bath. The materials are made water based do not emit toxic fumes. A good protective impregnation is linseed oil.

More information about the arrangement of the bath ceiling is told in the video:

Conclusion

The ceiling in the bath with your own hands is not hastily done. Sheathing is carried out simultaneously with the walls. If the materials were correctly selected and laid, the lining in the steam room will last more than 15 years. In other rooms, the life of the skin is much longer, but it all depends on the quality of ventilation.