Options for making a ceiling in your home with your own hands. Ways to raise the ceiling in a wooden house Low ceiling in a wooden house made of timber

The old buildings have low ceilings. If you are the owner of such a house and want to increase the height of the ceilings, you do not have to dismantle the roof - you can raise it yourself. Our master class will help you with this.

Tools and materials for work

We will need:

at least three jacks (preferably oil) with a lifting capacity of 5 tons;
the corresponding amount of compressive strength wooden beams, metal channels (optimally) or pipes of suitable length;
the corresponding number of rigid floor pads, which will redistribute the point load from the jack to the area load (thick boards, pieces of channel, etc.);
cushioning material that will be placed under beams and jacks during the process of raising the roof (cutting boards, bricks, etc.): their quantity must be calculated so that it is enough for all beams on both sides on full height raising the roof;
the material from which the walls will be raised (brick, shell rock, adobe, etc.), as well as mortars(sand, clay, cement, etc.): their quantity must be calculated depending on the length of the walls and the height to which the roof will rise.

So let's begin

As part of the first stage of work, it is necessary to adjust the jacks to the ceiling beams. The beams may be initially visible or sewn up from below; in this case, you need to calculate their position (it corresponds to the location of the roof’s load-bearing frame) and mark it on the walls from the inside in order to know in which places to install the jacks. There will be a lot of dust during the process, so the furniture should be covered or removed from the room.

We start from the corner. We install the jack on the distribution gasket strictly under the beam and slightly wedge the channel between the beam and the jack, extending the jack rod. The jack should still have 5-10 centimeters of travel left for the upcoming lift. Next, you need to make sure that the channel is located vertically in all planes. If necessary, you can loosen the jack, adjust the channel and lightly wedge it again.

If you do not plan to sew up the beams in the future, place cushioning material between the channel and the beam to prevent damage to the beam. Now you can try to carefully lift the beam. Monitor the relative position of the jack and the channel. If you see that a break occurs at the point of their contact, loosen the jack and move it slightly towards inner side fracture Do not ignore this break - under increasing load during lifting, the channel can jump out of the connection, which can lead to injury. If there is no break, extend the jack rod no more than 5 centimeters, and fix this position by placing a spacer between the beam and the wall. Do not loosen the jack.

Repeat the same operation with all jacks on one side of the house.

The more jacks you have, the better - you'll save time reinstalling them.

When all the jacks have been raised by 5 centimeters, you can start again from the first to the penultimate one, raising them another 5 centimeters and increasing the thickness of the spacers between the beam and the wall. It’s not worth raising it any higher yet: if there is a large distortion, the roof may “move out” during the process of raising the opposite side.

Next, we weaken and rearrange all the jacks under the next beams, except for the last one, raised by 5 centimeters. We repeat the whole process from the beginning. When all the beams on one side are raised by 10 centimeters and spacers are placed under them, we move to the other side of the house and raise them in the same way. From this side you can raise it by 15-20 centimeters, and we also do all further lifts to the required height. In this way, the slight displacement that occurs when the roof is skewing will be compensated.

Additional complications

The first and last beams are usually hidden by the wall, so they will need to be lifted manually using an enlarged arm. It will be much easier to do this when the second and penultimate beams of the house are already raised by 5 centimeters.

The distribution gasket under the jack must be strong enough to avoid damage. flooring.

Fix the roof at the required height

When the beam is raised to required height, you need to build a support under it. Even if you use clay when laying openings, it is better to use mortar to build supports, since it dries faster and acquires the necessary strength. The support will have to be erected at the moment when the beam rests on the raised jack; after the jack is loosened, the load will immediately fall on the support - the freshly laid clay at this moment will most likely cause subsidence.

Particularly difficult will be the sections of the wall where the beams lie above window openings. You will probably want to increase the height of the windows, which will require raising the lintels and filling in the voids while the beams are resting on the jacks.

Try to organize the entire process efficiently so that it takes as little time as possible. While the roof stands on temporary supports, it is a rather shaky structure - rush strong wind can ruin the result of your work.

Once the interior masonry has been laid and the roof is firmly in place, the outer masonry can be raised.

Since lifting and repairing a roof is a rather labor-intensive task, you should immediately think about updating the roof so that this issue no longer bothers you.

The main element of the attic and interfloor ceilings in many private houses there is a wooden beam. The service life of wooden floors is limited due to the properties of the wood, especially if it has been poorly processed or has been subjected to stress and moisture.

As a result of such factors, the beam ceases to cope with the function assigned to it (sagging, deflection, curvature is possible) and reinforcement of the wooden floor beams will be required.

In addition to damage and loss of load-bearing capacity of floor and ceiling beams (joists, purlins), strengthening may be dictated by an increase in the load on the floor.

When to strengthen wooden floor beams

poor condition beam structure . The result is wood damage. High humidity, temperature changes, the activity of various pests (bark beetles), cracking - all this leads to deformation of the floor beam;

reduction in load-bearing capacity. Under their own weight, constant and variable load, floor beams can bend. According to the standards, if the deflection is within 1:300, then there is nothing to worry about. For example, if a beam is 2500 mm long. bent by 10 mm. this corresponds to the normal deflection value. If the deflection is greater, it should be strengthened;

the need to increase the load-bearing capacity of the beam. Associated, for example, with the reconstruction of an attic into an attic or living space. Such a restructuring will lead to an increase in constant and variable loads on the floors of the second floor, which automatically requires a change in the cross-section of the installed wooden beams.

Within the article, several common methods of strengthening the ceiling will be given (reconstruction). But only a professional can accurately answer the question of how to strengthen wooden floor beams and only after analyzing the condition of the structure. After all, in each case the decision will be individual.

Using the table, you can get an idea of what cross-section a beam should have under a certain load.

Material prepared for the website website

Ways to strengthen wooden floor beams

Basic types and methods of amplification wooden floors are given in order of increasing labor costs and duration of work.

Type of amplification without changing operating conditions

Reinforcement with wooden overlays

The method is used when the tree is damaged. The pads are installed on both sides of the timber beam (on the sides or top and bottom), as tightly as possible to it and are fastened (tightened) through with a bolt. It is important to treat the damaged area and pads with an antifungal solution. In critical cases, if the area is severely damaged, it is better to remove it. To strengthen the beam, you need to attach an overlay along its entire length.

Reinforcement of spans with metal plates (plates) or rod prostheses

Steel plates are used instead of the wooden ones described above. The metal also needs to be treated with an anti-corrosion solution. The device diagram is shown in the figure.

Reinforcement of flooring with carbon fiber (carbon fiber reinforced plastic)

Modern reinforcement technology (carbon fiber reinforcement). Carbon fiber (strips, sheets, plates, threads, fabric) is glued in several layers until the required beam stiffness is achieved. Ease of use and lightness of the material lead to the fact that carbon fiber is gaining popularity as effective remedy for restoration of beams and building structures.

Below is a diagram of reinforcement (strengthening) of floor beams with carbon fiber.

Reinforcement at the ends with wooden or metal prostheses

The technology allows you to strengthen the beam at the junction with the load-bearing wall. This is exactly the place where, due to temperature changes, wood damage occurs faster.

The diagram below shows the technology of reinforcement with prostheses made of channel, rolled profile

Installation of a rod prosthesis

The bar prosthesis of the Deidbekov system is made of two paired trusses, which are made from scraps of reinforcing steel with a cross-section (diameter) of 10-25 mm. The length of the prosthesis should be 10% greater than twice the length of the rotted end of the beam, but not more than 1.2 m.

Install temporary supports under the ceiling at a distance of 1-1.5 m from the load-bearing wall, consisting of racks and purlins.
Disassemble the ceiling from below to a width of 75 cm and from above - 1.5 m from the wall.
Cut off the damaged section of the beam (0.5m)
Insert the prosthesis blank vertically into interfloor covering and turn it to a horizontal position, first pushing it onto the beam, then, in the opposite direction, pushing it into the wall niche.
Move and nail the sliding strip.

Type of amplification with changing operating conditions

Strengthening wooden floors using these methods requires significant reconstruction. load-bearing structure beam spans.

Non-standard solutions

If it is not possible to strengthen the wooden floor beams, you can try to unload them, i.e., distribute the load from the existing beams to additionally installed elements.

Strengthening floors by installing supports under load-bearing beams

Supports supporting beams from below are a good way to redistribute the load from the beam to the support.

Strengthening floors by installing additional beams

If the existing joists are intact, increase them bearing capacity possible by increasing their number. Installing additional wooden beams will increase the load on the structure. When installing new logs, it is imperative to protect their ends with roofing felt to avoid damage.

We hope that from the above methods of strengthening wooden floor beams, you will choose the one that will solve your problem in the best way and at minimal cost.

It is much easier to heat a room with a low ceiling. This technique was often used in old houses. But this was not the only reason; another problem was the lack modern technologies for the procurement of building materials. Often when performing repair work owners are interested in how to raise the ceiling in a house with minimal losses.

Why is the ceiling low

In order to properly approach the work of increasing the level of ceilings, it is important to know two more reasons why ceilings are low:

inattentive approach when choosing logs;
building shrinkage;
uneven load distribution;
the house was originally designed incorrectly.

When purchasing building materials, it is better to do this with your own tape measure. This way you will have the opportunity to check the compliance with the declared sizes. Often for the sake of savings or the desire to earn more, and sometimes simply due to negligence, the overall width can be reduced by a whole centimeter, which during assembly general design can result in 15 or even 20 cm.

Pay attention! In the case where the building was built from timber or profiled logs, or without a foundation, it can experience significant shrinkage. In the case of rounded logs, this value can reach 10–15 cm. It happens that builders do not take this point into account and do not make a reserve, which subsequently leads to unpleasant consequences.

When designing a house, it is necessary to correctly approach the distribution of the load on the supporting beams and walls. In this case, the entire building will form a monolithic frame. It is important that all the material is from the same batch, then there will be a high probability that all the boards will behave the same.

Lifting methods

In most cases, the ceiling level can be raised without removing the roof. In other situations this cannot be avoided. Here are the methods that are used quite often:

Lowering the floor. This option will not be feasible in all situations. If the house has no foundation at all or is not deep enough, this can lead to partial or complete destruction buildings. When applying this method, it is also necessary to analyze at what height the windows will be. They may have to be moved to a lower level.
Changing the cladding method. A frequently used method. Suitable in most cases. At the right approach you can get a beautifully decorated ceiling.
. It can be implemented in the case when the ceiling crossbars are not load-bearing and the roof rafters are not attached to them.
Lifting the entire building. Will be relevant in wooden house, when the entire building forms a monolithic structure made of timber and can be raised without the consequences of warping or destruction of the walls.
. This is a very non-recommended method, but it can still be done if all the rules are followed.

Pay attention! No two buildings are completely identical. This means that you should approach the matter by analyzing general principles, not template solutions.

Preparatory work

Before choosing one of the methods listed above, you need to inspect the main components in a private house:

Carefully inspect the foundation. Assess how deep it is into the ground. Is it a ribbon, or is it just a mound of cobblestones.
Assess the condition of the walls. If they are made of wood, tap them to see if the beams have rotted in the middle.
Go up to the attic. Look at the method used to line the ceiling. Were the rafter beams (crossbars) used or were the ceiling beams laid separately?
Check that the roof deck is securely fastened.

Pay attention! If possible, before starting work, draw and write down the course of action on a piece of paper. This will give an opportunity in the best possible way analyze all the advantages and difficulties.

If, after inspection, you come to the conclusion that the foundation has high strength and is made well, then you can go this route.

If the house is made of logs, then this means that the logs are fixed between the first and second crown. The main task will be to lower them directly to the foundation or a little lower. In this way we will be able to gain about 20 cm.
We empty our premises of all furniture and clean it.
Using a nail puller, remove the boards that form the flooring. Don't rush to throw them away. If they are oak or simply in good condition, they may still be useful.

Assess the condition of the lag. See if they are provided for the base only in this room or if they continue into the next room.
We cut the logs using a hacksaw, reciprocating saw or chain saw. Be careful, sometimes there may be nails.
We seal the cracks and openings that remain in the walls after removing the beams.
We inspect and clean the space that has become available.
We move the boards to the level below. To do this, if necessary, it is important to make openings for the strips in the casing. Afterwards they are inserted and fixed (you can use metal corners).
If the floor has not been insulated, then if there is space below, you can fill perpendicular strips on which to lay mineral wool(it will need to be covered with film) or polystyrene foam.
If the floor boards were in good condition, they can be used again to cover the floor. After this, everything will need to be cleaned, primed and painted.

If the operations are not carried out in a house made of timber, then after removing the floor covering, you may have to go deeper into the ground to achieve the desired result.

When performing such actions, you lose a significant layer that served as insulation. Now we need to compensate for this. The sampling should be made taking into account the fact that a layer of insulation will be laid. It will consist of waterproofing, expanded clay and possibly expanded polystyrene. It is better to fill the screed on top.
Do not forget that the walls are exposed and cold bridges may appear. To compensate for them, you can lay waterproofing and damper tape even before completing the floor insulation layer. It should extend above the future screed. Its excess is cut off with a knife.

If, having been in the attic, you noticed that the ceiling consists of boards that are stuffed onto the bottom of the beams, this is simply the ideal option and the easiest to fix.

It is better to empty the room completely, without trying to cover the furniture, because it can still be accidentally damaged.
We film everything decorative finishing from the ceiling.
We remove the layer of boards and insulation that may be present there.
If the boards are in good condition, they can be reused.
We inspect the condition of the beams. They can be cleaned and coated with an antiseptic if required.
We transfer the hemmed boards from the bottom of the beams to the top. This way we will gain about 20 cm of space. But the floor structure will now be visible.
If the surface of the floor beams has an unpresentable appearance and coating with stain will no longer help, then you can go another way. Using wooden lining or drywall, we sew them up and paint them the color of wood.
Next, finishing work is carried out.

Usually, when building houses, separate ceiling beams are installed for the ceiling, which are not connected to the roof structure. If this is the case in your case, then you can do the following:

We clean out the attic space and remove all the sheathing from the ceiling.
We go back into the room and make supports for the existing ceiling beams. They can be tied to tie rods (cross bars of trusses). Before performing this operation, it is very important to correctly calculate the maximum supported weight.
Once the beam has been fixed, it can be cut using a reciprocating saw or chainsaw. When both ends are released, it simply falls to the ground.
We do this with each of the crossbars.
After the ceiling space is cleared, you can raise the partitions using logs.
The ceiling sheathing is tied to the truss beams. In this way, you can raise the ceiling by several tens of centimeters.
If this does not seem enough, then you can do differently. When done correctly, there is an advantage to transferring puffs. Before cutting off the old ones, new ones are made, which are located a little higher. The entire structure is fixed and, if necessary, additional struts and spacers are added. Next, we attach the ceiling to the new beams.

Lifting the entire building

It is best to have several jacks before you use this method. Their load capacity should be from 5 tons. In simultaneous lifting there is a danger of losing the reference point, so it is important to consider preventing horizontal displacement.

Determine how high you want to raise the building.
Divide this value by 5 cm - this is how much better it is to lift in one approach. It is possible to a lower height, but not to a higher one.
Make supports according to the number of approaches.
Determine the support points for the jacks.
Before starting work, make sure once again that the walls are properly bandaged and the roof is fixed.
The lifting must be done synchronously.
As soon as the next wedge is placed, it must be fixed to the previous one using self-tapping screws so that they do not move apart.
Once the desired height is reached, the jacks are loosened and everything remains on supports.
Now you can add several crowns to the resulting space. Instead of crowns, you can pour the foundation to the planned level.
Next comes hydro- and thermal insulation. The building is again raised a little, the supports are removed, after which it sits in the place intended for it.

Pay attention! Before performing all operations, calculate the mass of the house. To do this, you need to multiply the volume of the material by its density. The volume is obtained by multiplying the width by the length and height, then the values for each wall are plused and added to approximate weight roofs.

This option can be implemented if support part The roof is in close to perfect condition.

Determine how high you want to raise the roof.
Calculate total weight roof structures.
Now we need to strengthen the perimeter. For this purpose, a channel of series no lower than 14U is used. It is necessary to build a frame from it that will connect the entire structure.
The base is secured to the beam using self-tapping screws with a diameter of at least 10 mm and a length of at least 10 cm.
If necessary, add additional crossbars between the trusses.
Now you need to completely disassemble the ceiling to install the support legs.
The supporting legs are made of a cross-shaped base. For this, a 12U channel is used. Four vertical strips of the same material are welded to the base. The distance between them should be such that the jack can fit inside. They are connected using perpendicular crossbars. Additionally, struts are installed.
The stands are located at the support points. Lifting is carried out using one jack in increments of 5 cm.
When the roof is raised to the desired height, additional crowns are installed in the case of a wooden structure or an armored belt is poured.
Once the roof support is ready, it can be installed in its proper place.

Pay attention! Carry out work only in calm weather, because there is a danger of collapse due to gusts of wind.

This article aims to provide a basic understanding of possible ways problem solving. In each specific situation their own difficulties arise and are born unique ideas. Share your solutions in the comments. We are always happy to receive new offers!

Video

This video shows how to lift a private house:

In fact, the ceiling is a partition that separates the floors. IN apartment buildings it is mainly made from concrete slabs (with metal fittings inside). Its structure is extremely simple - a base and reinforcing material, which increases durability and permissible static load.

In a private house, ceilings are often made of wood. Thus, they do not increase the mass of the entire structure (this will allow for slight savings on the foundation), and also reduce the cost of construction. Of course, you can also lay concrete slabs, but this will cost more and require the use of additional equipment.

Most difficult option- This is an adobe ceiling. In most cases, it is simply replaced, but it can also be restored by strengthening wooden beams. Moreover, this is the real fashion trend in modern design.

In total, the ceilings are:

concrete;
wooden (beams, boards, log house, wells);
adobe (this can include bricks and other building materials of this class).

How to raise the ceiling in an old house: what is needed for this

In order to raise the ceilings in your house, you need to either dismantle the structure and then create a new covering, or raise the frame by installing the lower cladding (suitable for small wooden houses).

You can’t just do it by hand - you’ll need to use additional equipment. Ideal option- remove the roof, increase to required height walls and already create new level ceiling.

When it comes to two-story house, then such work will not be profitable - it is better to abandon the idea. That is, ceilings can only be raised from the attic side.

You need to remember that you will also have to:

strengthen the base and foundation;
level the cladding level of the main box and the added layer;
prevent condensation at joints (sealed with basalt fiber).

What should be the height of the ceilings in the house?

In almost every old house, the ceiling height slightly exceeds 2 meters. The modern standard is 2.4 meters. However, increasingly standard height increases up to 3 meters. But we must remember that in those houses that are located outside the city, there are too many high ceiling will create a whole lot of inconvenience. For example, it will be much more difficult to heat such a room with a stove. That's why comfortable height is considered the same 2.4 meters.

In an unheated house, you can do even less. However, you will definitely need thermal insulation from the attic floor.

Based on all this, the optimal heights are:

2.1 meters - for houses that are heated by stoves;
2.4 - for gasified houses;
3 meters - if the ceiling is created in a monolithic structure (but they are still extremely rare).

Do-it-yourself ceiling installation in the house: options

The ceiling, even from the same material, can be laid various methods. For example, from wood - along beams or in a cross pattern (transversely, with longitudinal hangers). In any case, if the walls are made of brick or concrete, then they will have to be grooved, that is, to create recesses for joining. Sagging will only help when installing a false ceiling.

What kind of fastenings to make is decided by the owner of the house, based on the stability of the structure, as well as the reliability of the foundation layer. Universal option- average layout of gating and installation of a reinforced layer (it can even be made from reinforcement with a screed).

A ceiling whose static maximum load exceeds 2-3 times the real one is considered to be correctly installed. That is, it must be both lightweight and reliable.

The simplest options:

Cob ceiling (a mixture of wood and clay bricks with straw).
Wooden ceiling (with beams or just lining).
Screed on beacons. Cement with reinforcing mesh is used. This ceiling is not intended for high loads.

Adobe house: how to make a ceiling with your own hands

If you need to knock out the ceiling in adobe house, then it is better to mount it from wood or adobe. You can combine these options - create a sheathing of wood and cover it all with a mixture of clay and straw. In principle, this was done until the 80s of the last century in almost all country-type houses.

The only drawback of adobe is that it sweats during the heating period and is a highly flammable material. That is, to heat such a house, you will have to install either a floor heating system or a potbelly stove (stove), which will be moved outside the house (will be in the annex).

That is, the basics of the technique for installing a ceiling in an adobe house:

lay a high-quality sheathing (ideally from a log house);
lay adobe along the sheathing;
Level the level with a mixture of clay and straw.

You can make an adobe ceiling even in a residential building. If you want to visually hide it, you can use a hanging structure.

What ceilings to make in the house: options

Returning to the original question, we can answer that each case is individual, so it is impossible to say which ceilings are best for a particular house.

The most durable and reliable are concrete ones, but they cannot be mounted in adobe or clay house(and in chopped, block). Why? Because you need to take into account the maximum possible static load on the sheathing (ceiling support).

Restrictions are not introduced except when arranging the ceiling in concrete and brick houses, under which is monolithic foundation. That is, you should first consult with a specialist or engineer who will indicate whether the structure can withstand the increased weight.

When choosing a ceiling design, you only need to remember that:

wood is not reliable and requires special care;
adobe is not visually attractive, so it will have to be covered with finishing;
concrete - best option, but it won’t work to line the ceiling in a wooden house.

Even for brick ones it will not work with a strip foundation.

And, of course, every builder who undertakes the installation of a ceiling must also take into account his financial capabilities. Reviews say that using adobe is the most profitable business if it is not then covered with expensive finishing. If we cover it with finishing, then it will cost no less than a ceiling made of wood and concrete, and even more expensive, therefore, this option is more suitable for rich people.

How to make a ceiling in a monolithic house

The main difficulty that arises when arranging a ceiling in monolithic house- impossibility of its subsequent disassembly. That is, the base is mounted along grooves (where spacers are placed) into the wall.

In an already formed room you can only do wooden ceiling. It will no longer be possible to install the slabs without removing the roof. And you need to understand that all the walls here are reinforced, or even slings pass through them. Therefore, leveling the level will not work. It is only possible to replace the ceiling finish, or to create a new false ceiling from the same plasterboard, for example.

That is, when creating a ceiling in a monolithic house, you need to consider the following points:

The structure will be supported by grooves (recesses in the wall).
Construction of an additional floor is impossible, so the load on the ceiling will be small (for an attic it will be suitable, but no more).
It is not possible to adjust the ceiling height.
For overhaul It is better to create a false base for the ceiling. The rough foundation is simply strengthened if necessary.

Do-it-yourself ceiling in your house (video)

Naturally, there are many more options for arranging ceilings than are described here. Nowadays even glass is used for construction, but in residential buildings- this is not an option. Optimal choice- wood and concrete. Saman - for the old country houses without brickwork. And the installation technology is the same everywhere - either using sheathing or grooves.

DIY ceiling in your house (photo)

It is well known that in many homes old building The ceilings are made quite low. This can be explained by the architectural features of buildings of the last century, as well as their subsidence behind for many years operation. Of course, this state of affairs does not entirely suit the owners, who sometimes fail to place modern furniture or install door jambs without trimming them.

That is why many of them would like to know how to raise the ceiling in a wooden house in the simplest way.

Solutions options

To solve the problem set before us, one of the following methods can be used:

removal of false ceiling;
rise ceiling beams;
lowering of the genital lags;
lifting the entire building as a whole (with the addition of crowns).

Note that the choice suitable option increasing the height of rooms in a house depends on many factors and is associated with certain difficulties.

The method involving the dismantling of the false ceiling is, of course, the simplest, but with its help it is possible to increase only the longitudinal (relative to the beams) walls by 15-20 cm.

Raising the ceiling beams themselves is only possible if complete dismantling roof, since attempts to raise the entire roofing structure can lead to irreparable consequences (as an extreme option - to the complete destruction of the structure).

Reducing the level of placement of floor joists will require the contractor to either rework the window blocks (it’s unlikely that anyone will be satisfied with unnaturally high window sills), or build up the foundation.

Lifting a structure using jacks is usually done either to add additional crowns or to build up its foundation (with subsequent lowering of the floor joists). Next, we will briefly consider the implementation features of each of these methods.

Upon closer examination ceiling you can see that its lower part is formed by a lining of boards, which is covered on top with one or another finishing material(plasterboard, for example). On the side of the attic there is usually a flooring arranged along the upper cut of the beams. Even if there is no such flooring, you can still gain about 15-20 centimeters in height (depending on the thickness of the supporting beams) by removing the filing.

Naturally, in the latter case, you will have to make a good flooring and insulate it on top in accordance with the basic requirements of SNiP. At the same time, the remaining exposed beams are quite capable of fitting into the interior of the room and can act as an original decorative element.

Lifting ceiling beams

This technique of raising ceilings in a private house is allowed only if the following conditions are met:

possibility of complete dismantling of the roof;
good condition of beams;
availability of jacks of the required class.

In the process of implementing this technique, you will also have to dismantle the false ceiling and completely expose it load-bearing beams, which are then removed, and the walls of the house are increased by 1-2 crowns. After adding beams, the entire chain of operations described above is performed in reverse order.

If you choose the option of lowering the floor, you will first need to make the following assessment:

carefully examine the genital ridges themselves;
examine the condition of the foundation;
decide on the underground.

After a thorough visual examination technical condition all elements of the structure, it will be possible to make an informed decision on how to raise the ceiling in a wooden house.

In this case, it is assumed that you will be able to decide whether you will need to build up the foundation or choose the option of simply lowering the floor joists below the level of the latter.

In the event that you can neither raise the ceiling of the house nor lower its floor, you will have to start lifting everything wooden structure in general, followed by adding crowns or building up the foundation. This solution option can be used as a comprehensive one, allowing you to solve two problems at once. Simultaneously with increasing the height of the ceiling, you can also renovate the foundation of the building.

You can find a detailed description of the house lifting technique in the many sources available on the Internet.

Before starting the procedures, it is necessary to make a rough estimate of the weight of the entire structure being lifted. In this case, the calculation should be based on the fact that the density of dry wood is approximately 500-700 kg/m3.

To work, you will need to stock up on three or four powerful hydraulic jacks with a lifting capacity of at least 5 tons.