Pit for humus in the country. How to make a compost pit in the country: instructions from A to Z. General device requirements

Not everyone is attracted to the idea self cooking fertilizers at their summer cottage. The main reason is the misunderstanding of the role of compost. Some people are also embarrassed by the smells that accompany the process of “ripening” of the mass. This article will acquaint you with the rules for the production of one of the best organic fertilizers and with the existing technologies for building a bunker, as well as what needs to be done to eliminate the manifestations of unpleasant "side effects".

• The problem of waste disposal is partially solved.
• Compost not only feeds the soil, but, unlike many other means (preparations), retains moisture in it.
• There is no need to allocate a segment for the storage of imported manure, which is one of the most used fertilizers in summer cottages. The hole does not require much space.
• Unlike the same manure, compost eliminates the risk of soil contamination (for example, potato scab), and there are no pest larvae in it.
• Minimum financial costs for the preparation of effective organic fertilizer.

Calculation of the required amount of compost

Fertilizer is prepared at the dacha in such a volume as to satisfy the needs for fertilizing the soil on your site. Therefore, whatever good compost no one was, no one needs his surplus. Inexperienced gardeners mistakenly believe that the more fertilizer is applied to the soil, the higher the crop yield will be. At the same time, such an aspect as the balance of the ecosystem is forgotten, which also implies optimal combination various chemical elements in the earth.

What the violation of this rule leads to is a separate issue. Suffice it to point out that in a number of cases, with an excess of certain fertilizers, the plant develops intensively, but in the "green", and its fruits do not reach the optimal size.

It makes no sense to give formulas and examples of calculations. Majority sizes summer cottages lie within only 5 - 7 acres, no more. If we take away the sectors occupied by various outbuildings (house, shed), paths and engineering structures(septic tank, swimming pool), then usable area and even less. As a rule, within 3.5 - 4.5. For feeding this dacha territory a 1.5 - 2 "square" compost pit is quite enough (at a depth of about one and a half meters).

The word "depth" should not be literally deciphered. It is desirable that the compost pit rises above the ground. Therefore, it is more correct to talk about the height of the structure. Deepening will only complicate the work, since you have to think about high-quality waterproofing the entire "bottom". Especially if groundwater comes close enough to the surface.

Location selection

Option number 3

A full-fledged pit is being equipped, the bottom and walls of which are poured with concrete mortar. Making formwork is easy. The only plus is compost pit not conspicuous, as it is in the ground. The disadvantages are noted in relation to the brick structure.

And these options are not the only ones. For the competent arrangement of the compost pit, it is necessary to correctly determine its dimensions and ensure the strength of the walls of the bunker. And what to build them from is a personal matter of the owner of the cottage. For example, dig metal pipes(in the corners) and fit them with a fine mesh. The only difficulty is in creating the greenhouse effect. You will have to tightly cover the entire bunker - not only from above, but also from the sides.

What can be used as raw material for compost

Naturally, necessarily organic. But there are so many of them in any dacha that there will be no problems with finding raw materials for compost.

• Everything related to the concept of "wood and its waste" - sawdust, small chips, needles, chopped bark, leaves and branches. Here you can also add dried grass, straw.
• Fruits - cereals, fruits, berries. Naturally, it is necessary to reject those that have traces of lesions (worm, scab, and so on).
• Coffee grounds (leftovers), old tea leaves. When accumulated, they are not thrown away, but sent to the compost pit.
• Shredded fractions of paper products - cardboard, napkins, newspapers and so on.
• Pieces of fabrics, but only natural ones - linen, cotton, silk, wool.
• Wood ash.
• Manure. But definitely last year, not fresh!

What should not be loaded into a compost pit

• Tops (tomato, potato).
• Carcasses of dead rodents, domestic animals, birds.
• Ash coal.
• Glass, porcelain.
• Bones.
• Weed roots.
• Excrement of pets (cats, dogs).

For high quality compost experienced gardeners recommend running earthworms into the bunker. Well, finding them, especially if there is a farm near the dacha, will not be a problem. As an option - dig in a nearby landing. You won't need much - in good conditions they multiply intensively. By the way, summer residents-fishermen do just that. For them, the problem of finding worms does not exist.

Whichever option is chosen, you need to know that the finished compost is always located at the bottom of the bin. How to get it? You will need a "window" (door). Therefore, a concrete bin is not an entirely acceptable solution, and the compost in it is prepared immediately, in in full. The remaining options involve the systematic unloading of a certain amount. This means that it is possible to organize a cyclical process of its preparation, which is much more convenient, since we are talking about a summer house, and not massive agricultural / land.

The author believes that there are plenty of recommendations on how to make a compost pit. There is nothing difficult in this. But just installing a hopper is not the solution to the fertilizer problem. He needs some care. But this is a somewhat different topic.

Good luck building your compost pit, dear reader! And do not be afraid to "invent", since there is no hard standard for such a structure.

Any land plot needs periodic fertilizer. And what could be better than high-quality compost? Buying it and then bringing it to the site is a long and expensive task. Why not produce this valuable fertilizer directly on your own land, because all conditions have been created for this? During the warm season, a lot of organic and plant waste accumulates on the site, which must be disposed of. It turns out that it is possible to combine the cleaning of the site from waste, and the production of compost from them. Let's take a look at how a compost pit can be built with your own hands, what is needed for this, and how to avoid elementary mistakes in the production of fertilizers.

Compost mad on land plot is designed for laying all kinds of plant and organic residues, waste, surpluses of various products. Laid in layers, these components gradually decompose, turning into a high-quality fertilizer. The question arises: how to build a compost pit with your own hands so that fertilizer is obtained in it during the season? To do this, you need to make some efforts to help the compost ripen faster.

With proper care, you can get ready-made compost in 3 months. If the pit is not given special attention, then the process of waste decomposition will continue for about two years.

Compost bin requirements

For normal and rapid maturation of compost, it needs heat, the presence of oxygen and moisture. How to make a compost pit correctly so that its contents turn into high-quality fertilizer, and the heap itself does not harm plantings and people on the site? To do this, you should familiarize yourself with some of the requirements for such facilities:

• The compost heap should mostly rise above the soil level. Thanks to this, the pile warms up better, the convenience of its loosening and watering is ensured. It is recommended to deepen the pit by about 50 cm, leaving barriers above the soil surface of about 1 m. The ideal width of the structure is 1.5 m, and its length is 2 m;
• If there is a source of drinking water on the site, for example, a well, a well or a spring, then the distance from it to the pit should not be less than 25 m;
• It is advisable to place the pit in a place that will be removed from the house or gazebo. In this case bad smell, which may come from the compost heap, will not annoy the owners of the site;
• It is desirable to have a pit in partial shade so that it is not constantly in the sun. This will help it dry out.
• How to make a compost pit so that runoff from it does not fall through the soil into a source of clean water? To do this, if the site has a slope, it is enough to place the pit below the source;
• It is impossible to place a hole under fruit trees, as this can lead to their death;
• The dimensions of the pit are selected taking into account the amount of plant debris and waste that is available in the country and will be in the pit for two years;
• Do-it-yourself options for making a compost pit should take into account that it is recommended to choose the height of the fences so that it is convenient to loosen and collect compost.

Tip: The bottom of the pit should not be covered with slate, metal, rubber or film. They will not allow moisture to rise from the soil upwards, as a result of which the compost will constantly dry out. The bottom must certainly be earthen. But the walls can be closed with any material.

What can and cannot be thrown into the compost pit

A do-it-yourself compost pit will justify its purpose if the following types waste:

• leaves, bark, needles, chopped branches and roots;
• weeded and mowed weeds, grass;
• bird droppings and rotted two-year manure;
• vegetables, fruits and berries, including cleaning;
• remnants of coffee, tea;
• hay, sawdust, shavings, straw;
• ash from burning wood;
• paper, paper bags, cardboard, napkins.

Tip: If a thick layer of fresh grass is laid in the pit, then the process of its decomposition can be delayed for six months or a year. In this case, cover the grass with soil.

Do not lay in the pit:

• inorganic products that do not decompose. These are rubber, plastic bags, plastic, metal, synthetic products;
• faeces of pets, as they may contain helminth eggs;
• bones;
• the tops of tomatoes and potatoes, as it is often infected with late blight;
• plants treated with chemicals;
• ripe weed seeds;
• thick branches that rot for a long time.

Possible manufacturing options

A compost heap with your own hands can be made in several ways. We list them all, indicating the features of each of them.

The usual heap in which waste is added

• Choose a place on the site where the compost heap will be located;
• As various wastes accumulate, they are laid in the selected place. In this case, it is desirable to lay organic matter in layers. Alternate food waste with grass and manure;
• When the height of the pile reaches 1 meter, make several recesses in it, into which pour special compost liquid. This will speed up the maturation of the compost;
• With regular loosening and watering, the compost will ripen after 3 months.

This is perfect option for those who wish to get by minimal effort but get some compost. It is desirable to form several such piles, each of which will rot gradually.

simple pit

A simple device for a compost pit in the country with your own hands will be provided by an ordinary pit dug in a selected place:

• The depth of the pit should be small, which will provide easier care for its contents. It is better to make it wider;
• Branches, hay, tree bark are laid at the bottom of the pit;
• Next come layers of food and plant waste;
• Since the temperature in the pit is not very high, it is advisable to cover it with a film.

This is the least successful way to equip a compost pit. To mix its contents, more effort will be required, and the pit will warm up less. The advantages of such a pit are its small area and simplicity of the device.

Box made of wood or other material

How to make a compost pit with your own hands so that it is convenient and inexpensive? Use boards, bars, slate, sheets of metal, etc. for this.

The order of arrangement will be as follows:

• On the soil, the top layer of soil about 40 cm thick is removed;
• Pegs are driven in along the perimeter of the pit;
• A fence is installed around the pit. It can be wooden (boards, pallets, shields, bars) or some other. It is allowed to use any material: flat or corrugated slate, polycarbonate, metal sheets;
• The height of the fence should not exceed 1 m. This is necessary for the convenience of mixing the compost;
• From above, such a structure is covered with plywood or film.

This design allows the compost to warm up well, therefore it is considered optimal for use on land.

Exist original version wooden box. Its lower edges do not reach the soil surface by 25-30 cm. That is, boards or other material are attached at a certain distance from the ground. In the lower part of such a box, the compost matures faster, as it was laid earlier. As it matures, the compost is picked up and the pile settles down. Such a pile practically does not need to be loosened. There is always an opportunity to get some amount of ready-made compost.

concrete pit

If you decide to build a durable structure that will last for decades, then use the advice on how to make a compost heap in a concrete pit.

The building is set up like this:

• a plot is marked for future construction (approximately 2x3 meters);
• soil is selected at 60-80 cm;
• a formwork about 10 cm thick is being built along the perimeter of the future building;
• concrete mortar is mixed;
• concrete is poured into the formwork;
• after the concrete has hardened, the formwork is removed;
• waste is laid in layers in a concrete pit;
• from above, the pit is covered with wooden shields or covered with a film.

This is the most costly way to build a compost pit in terms of effort and investment. Such a structure should be placed where the heap will definitely not create any difficulties, since it will be impossible to move it to another place.

Tip: It is recommended to divide the compost facility into at least 2 sections. While you will put fresh waste collected in the current season into one of them, last year's compost will decompose in the second section.

It should also be noted that there are options for organizing a compost pit from a barrel or special plastic containers for compost, but additionally, the use of drugs that accelerate the processing of waste, or the addition of Californian worms, will be required.

How to properly operate a compost pit

We figured out how to build a compost pit with your own hands using various schemes. It remains to highlight the question of how to properly care for compost pit during the season. It is enough to perform the following simple manipulations:

1. Loosen the compost periodically with a pitchfork. In this case, access of oxygen into the heap will be ensured. In addition, the waste will be mixed with each other, which will accelerate their decomposition.
2. Water the pile at least occasionally, and more often during the dry season. Thus, the contents of the pit will be moistened and rot better. Overdried compost almost completely stops decomposing.
3. It is recommended to cover the top of the compost with a dark film. This will create the greenhouse effect inside the heap, will raise its temperature. The film will retain moisture inside and prevent the germination of weeds. In a covered pile, the compost will mature in 3-4 months. If you do not cover it, the ripening process will stretch for a whole year.
4. Periodically plant in a pile of California worms, which loosen the contents of the pile and partially process it.
5. If possible, add preparations to the contents of the compost heap that speed up the decomposition process. For example, Compostin, Baikal EM-1, Embionic, Compostar, Sanex EcoCompost, Bioforce Compost and others.

A properly constructed compost pit, which is regularly maintained, is able to provide site owners with high-quality and practically free fertilizer in a very short time.

How can a compost pit be made with your own hands - the photo manufacturing options will be clearly demonstrated.

A compost pit is conventionally called a structure in which compost matures. It's a product of decay organic waste, considered one of the best options fertilizers. The introduction of compost not only improves the fertility of the soil, but also has a beneficial effect on its structure. Sandy soil thanks to it retains moisture better, and clay soil becomes looser, which allows the earth to pass air and water.

The principle of "work" of the compost heap is very simple. Organic waste is put into it and created for them optimal conditions for decomposition, which results in compost. In order for the waste to decompose, it is necessary to provide them with the necessary amount of oxygen and moisture. Therefore, the design of the pit must ensure ventilation of the mass laid in it. In addition, 3-4 times during the summer, the compost is shaken up and regularly spilled with water.

compost substrate in vivo maturing for two years. If you want to get it faster, add special bacteria that significantly speed up the decomposition process. You need to know what can be put in the compost pit and what not. An exemplary set is presented in the table.

Choosing a place for building

The best place to build a compost heap is in a shaded area near a fence or wall. outbuildings. If the sun's rays fall directly on the pit, the decomposition process will slow down or stop altogether. Another point to consider is the periodic appearance of a specific smell, so it is advisable to place the structure away from places where people appear.

The compost pit should be equipped taking into account the lifting height ground water. The substrate must not come into contact with them. In addition, you need to take care of. So, if there is a reservoir nearby or, there should be a distance of at least 25-30 m between them. At the same time, the slope of the soil should be such that after rains the water does not flow from the pit to the drinking source.

Setting up a compost bin

Two types of structures are used to obtain compost. It can be a pit or a special box. Let's take a closer look at both options.

Building a compost pit

Before starting work, it is worth deciding on its depth. You can make it small, then the contents of the pile will be easy to mix and the substrate will be ready faster. A deep pit is good because it completely hides the raw material. At the same time, it is more difficult to establish ventilation here. The optimal depth is 40-50 cm. The arrangement of the pit is carried out in the following sequence:

1. Digging a hole of the right size.
2. A wooden box is set up. To do this, at a distance of 20 cm from the walls, pegs are driven into the bottom at the corners, boards are nailed to them at some distance from each other.
3. The resulting box is divided into two halves using a wooden shield.
4. A drainage layer 10-15 cm high is laid at the bottom of the structure. This can be bark or tree branches, straw, spruce branches, etc.

Now you can stack the waste. Only one half is filled with raw materials. So it will be possible to regularly shift the compost mixture from one part of the pit to another in order to ventilate.

Arranging a compost bin

Such a design can be built with your own hands or purchased ready-made in the store. In the latter case, it will be a voluminous high plastic box, which will only have to be installed in the right place.

For self assembly wood is usually used. A frame is constructed from the bars, on which planks are stuffed at a short distance from each other. This is necessary to ventilate the decaying mass.

Be sure to make one wall removable or provide a lid - it will be convenient to mix the contents of the box if necessary. Alternatively, one of the walls can be equipped with a tightly closing door. For ease of maintenance, such a box is installed on concrete base. You can simply tamp the ground well and lay any solid material on it. Before filling the raw materials, drainage is laid at the bottom of the box, the same as in the compost pit.

To obtain good fertilizer, you need to fill the pit or box in compliance with some rules. The most important thing is to alternate the "brown" and "green" layers and make sure that their volume is approximately the same. Experienced gardeners understand dry waste as brown raw materials, fresh grass as green raw materials, etc. By alternating soft and hard masses, you will be able to avoid excessive compaction.

A well-organized compost pit will provide excellent fertilizer and help to utilize organic waste in a beneficial way.

The process of creating a compost pit is clearly shown in this video.

Every gardener knows how important it is to fertilize the soil in the garden and in the garden in time and with high quality, in order to get good harvest. You can buy ready-made compost, spending rather large sums on it, almost equal to the cost of the crop itself, or you can make it yourself without much effort.

A do-it-yourself compost pit, the options of which will be discussed in this publication, will help not only to produce high-quality fertilizers, saving on their purchase, but also to functionally use waste from plant products. There are several approaches to its creation, but first, a few words about the purpose and importance of this agrotechnical structure.

The purpose and general principles of creating a compost pit

What are compost pits for?

At least some cultivated plants are necessarily planted on each land plot, and without top dressing they will eventually lose their vitality, wither and die, as the soil around them is depleted.

Therefore, whether it is a tree, shrub or annual vegetable crops, the soil for them must be periodically fertilized. Today, specialized stores offer a large number of fertilizers made on different basis, but not all of them are equally useful for plants and unsafe for humans. Some producers are engaged in the manufacture of compost, however, and they are not always conscientious. To accelerate the maturation of humus, some of these "agrochemists" use not biological, but chemical means that quickly decompose various organic matter, and it is simply impossible to check how the processing took place to an ignorant person who does not have special knowledge. Therefore, having run into such a product, you can not only not achieve an increase in the yield of a vegetable garden or orchard, but, on the contrary, spoil the soil to such an extent that it will take many years to restore it.

That is why the best option is to make organic fertilizers on your own, especially since almost all the necessary components can always be found literally under your feet or in the kitchen after cooking.

Any territory is periodically put in order, and in the process of cleaning, heaps of grass and fallen leaves are collected, mixed with fallen fruits, as well as branches after cutting trees and bushes - all this is perfect for making compost.

If the loaded compost pit is not touched, then the maturation of the compost will take quite a long time. And if special biological solutions containing live bacteria are added to it, fertilizer can be obtained in 3-4 months. However, in order for the “ripening” process inside the compost pits and containers to proceed evenly, the mass must be periodically mixed and drugs added to it that accelerate the processes of natural decomposition of organic matter.

Requirements for the arrangement of a compost pit

In order for the compost pit to function properly, its design must provide all the necessary conditions for the development and active life of bacteria that will process plant waste.

The conditions necessary for the normal functioning of bacteria include the following factors:

• The presence of free access of oxygen to the container (pit), so that the plant waste placed in it does not rot, emitting unpleasant odors, but is broken down under the influence of earthworms and beneficial bacteria.
• Special temperature regime
• Constant high humidity.

High-quality fertilizer can only be obtained if all these conditions are met, and for this you need to properly build or assemble a compost bin from ready-made materials.

The requirements that must be observed in the construction of this useful structure can be listed as follows:

• The container must have holes in its walls for free access of air, which means that the best option would be to install it above the soil level.
• For the convenience of extracting the finished compost from the container, the front or side wall is best made in the form of a door, or assembled from removable boards.
• If the compost pit is arranged in a pit dug in the ground, then it should not be buried more than 500 mm. The mass laid in such a pit must be stirred quite often, adding a solution with live bacteria to it.
• A mobile compost bin looks like a very attractive option - if it has at least some aesthetic appearance, it can be installed anywhere on the site. The only thing to consider is that it should not be constantly in the sun. Therefore, it is best to find a place for the container in partial shade under the trees. In addition, if desired, it can be decorated with a removable

• The size of the compost bin or pit depends on how much fertilizer is expected to be made for the needs of the site. But it is best that its dimensions do not exceed 1000 × 2000 mm. If the area is large, and a lot of humus will be needed, then it is recommended to make several small containers with approximate size 800×1000 mm.
• You should not make the container box too high - it should have a height that will make it easy to loosen the mass, and this must be done quite often. Therefore, it is most reasonable to foresee the height depending on the growth of the gardener.
• Whatever material the compost bin is made of, its bottom should not be closed - it always remains earthen. Thus, moisture will be maintained in the box, which will come from the soil. In addition, free movement will be provided for earthworms, which are also actively involved in the production of humus.

What kind of waste can be put in a compost bin?

Compost will be of high quality and useful for plants only if it is made from environmentally friendly plant products. Therefore, you need to know what can be put in a container, and what is absolutely impossible.

• Tree branches (but they are placed only on the bottom of the composter - this will be a kind of drainage layer).
• Fallen leaves, needles, roots, bark and shredded tree branches.
• Mowed or weeded grass.
• Cleaning from vegetables, fruits and berries, as well as spoiled fruits.
• Chicken manure, aged two-year rotted manure.
• Ash and charcoal left over from burning wood.
• Sawdust, straw, hay, shavings and other small wood waste.
• Leftover tea and coffee.
• Paper bags, corrugated cardboard, used napkins and paper (of course, in the absence of printing ink or stationery glue on paper waste).
• Sometimes the lower branch drainage layer wakes up with lime for the speedy splitting of wood.

All vegetable waste, for example, layers of freshly cut grass, must be sprinkled with a layer of garden soil, since decomposition will be slower without it.

It is also very important to know what should never be put in compost, otherwise you can not help, but harm the plants.

Prices for garden containers

garden container

So, you can not fall asleep in the container inorganic substances, which do not decompose or, decomposing, emit toxic substances that are dangerous not only for plants, but also for humans. In addition, there are other substances and products that are contraindicated in compost pits. These include:

• Plastic bags, plastic, rubber, metal and synthetic products.
• Plants treated with chemicals.
• Tops from potatoes and tomatoes - it can be infected with late blight.
• Bones from fruit trees and animal bones.
• Feces of pets - they may contain helminths and their eggs.
• Pet hair, as it will take a long time to decompose.
• It is important to ensure that glass does not get into the compost, as when processing the beds, it can seriously injure your hand.
• It is not recommended to lay thick branches in the upper layers - they will decompose for too long.

What are compost pits and how to make them yourself?

Compost pits or containers are made from different materials - it can be wood, metal, smooth or wave slate, metal mesh and polyethylene film or geotextile, polyethylene black bags and more. The design of containers can also be different, but it should function according to the same principle. Next, the designs of various compost pits will be considered, from complex to the most simple options, so the reader will have the opportunity to choose the most suitable for a particular case.

The first option is a ready-made plastic container

For starters, consider ready-made version composter, which can be purchased at specialized stores. These are plastic containers made to suit all necessary conditions for the production of humus.

Containers of various sizes and shapes are quite affordable prices, which start from 1300 rubles, and if there is no opportunity or desire to make a compost pit on your own, then the best way out is to purchase this agricultural facility already in finished form.

Containers are quite compact products that have a neat and stylish look that will not spoil the landscape design of the site. Moreover, most often the plastic of such composters is painted in green color, which helps the container visually "get lost" against the background of the vegetation of the site.

Tanks are sold unassembled, so they can be easily delivered to the installation site even by public transport. Assembly instructions are included with them, and it will not be difficult to mount such a container on your own, since no tools are required for this.

For the convenience of removing ready-made humus from the composter, the design provides a side door that simplifies its operation.

Composters are made of frost-resistant UV-stabilized plastic, which perfectly withstands exposure to ultraviolet radiation, precipitation, wind and temperature changes. The advantage of this design compared to the "classic" compost pit, arranged in the ground, is that it will not become a source of an unpleasant odor, since the aeration system provided in the container does not allow the waste to rot.

The second option is a homemade wooden compost bin.

This version of the compost pit will not be so easy to do with your own hands for those land owners who do not have carpentry tools or do not know how to work with them. However, knowing the dimensions of the blanks, they can be ordered in a carpentry workshop, and assembling the box yourself should no longer be any particular problem, since this process does not require special tools. If the “carpentry tool arsenal” is available, and there is at least a little experience working with it, then the manufacturing process will be simple and fast.

So, for a wooden compost bin, you will need 24 boards 1500 mm long, 25 mm thick and 150 mm wide.

Of the tools you will need a circular saw or a jigsaw, a regular or electric planer, clamps, a tape measure and a simple pencil.

Illustration
	The first step is to make parts for the container. It is advisable to use high-quality durable wood for this purpose, which will be resistant to external natural influences such as moisture, wind, temperature changes and ultraviolet rays. This is due to the fact that the container will be located permanently on the street. And besides, the wood will be exposed not only from the outside, but also biological - from the inside, since the processes of decomposition of plant waste will actively take place there.
	Boards are sawn and planed from all sides, so that they look neat enough. This is especially important if the container will be located on a site that is clearly visible - probably no one would like the box to spoil the landscape design.
	After the boards are prepared, they are folded together and tightly tightened with clamps on both sides. Further, 100 mm are measured from each of the edges, then another 25 mm is set aside and marked with a pencil - this will be the width of the groove to be cut. The depth of the groove must also be 25 mm.
	Then, cuts are made on the marked boards. For this, manual circular saw the depth of cut is set, and in the area marked on the boards, many cuts are made at a distance of 1 ÷ 2 mm from one another. When the wood is broken into small pieces, it is easily removed from the boards with the same saw.
	When the grooves are ready on one side, the boards turn to the opposite side. Markings are also made on it - 100 and then 25 mm are first deposited from the edge. After that, the process of cutting grooves is repeated. The grooves on one side and the other along the width of the boards should be exactly opposite each other - as shown in this illustration.
	The next step is to take two boards with grooves, fold and fasten together with clamps. A line is drawn dividing the boards exactly in half - in this case it is 75 mm from the edge, and the boards are sawn along this markup. These parts will be used to install the lower and upper, that is, the last row of the structure.
	Further, all surfaces of the finished boards, including the cut grooves, must be treated with one of the antiseptic solutions. This tool will prevent putrefactive processes and extend the life of the wood. The antiseptic is applied with a wide brush. It is important to ensure that there are no untreated areas left, otherwise the decomposition of wood may begin from them under the influence of processes occurring inside the container and external natural factors.
	After the wood is completely dry, you can proceed to the assembly of the structure. The container should be installed on bricks, as there should be space for air to enter from below. The bricks are displayed at the site where the compost bin will be installed permanently. The installation site must be relatively flat so that there are no distortions of the container walls during its assembly.
	The assembly begins with the fact that two boards with a groove on only one side are installed on securely laid out bricks on the edge. They are positioned so that the groove is directed upwards.
	Further, perpendicular to them, boards with two oppositely placed grooves are installed, that is, on each side. The bottom groove of the top board should fit into the groove of the bottom board, standing on the bricks. This is well shown in the illustration.
	The next step is to mount boards parallel to the lower structural elements. According to the same system, the entire box is assembled, to the very top. The work goes quite quickly - if necessary, the board installed on top is knocked out by hand or, carefully, with a hammer.
	The last to install are two boards that have grooves on one side only - they, of course, are mounted with cutouts down. The result is a "well" with the necessary distances between the boards, through which oxygen will enter the compost.
	It is not enough to make and install such a box - it is also very important to fill it correctly. The lower layer of the filler is branches (in this design it will be located between the bricks installed under the container). And the thickness of such a layer should reach half the width of the lower wide board, which has grooves on both sides. The branches must be laid tightly enough, as they will act as drainage. Lime 70 ÷ 80 mm is poured on top of the branches, and then waste, then a layer of soil (its thickness should be about 100 mm.). Next again are waste, ash and soil. Then, waste, manure, soil and more waste. At the same time, ash, manure and lime can be periodically interchanged. It should be noted that this is only one of the filling options, since each gardener invents his own “recipes” and uses various components to make compost.

This design is good for everyone, except that it will not be very convenient to get ready-made compost from it. Most often, the option of a compost bin with an installed door or with removable boards is chosen.

In this design, I would like to consider the front side of the container, which is equipped with removable boards installed at an angle to additional corner vertical posts.

To fix them at an angle, on one side of the boards that form the side walls of the container, complex grooves are cut at an angle. To make them the same, the boards are folded together in pairs, fastened with clamps, and then the marked part of the groove is selected with a jigsaw.

The result of the work done will be the container shown in the illustration below. It clearly shows the boards set at an angle and two added vertical posts holding the side walls from the “facade” side.

One more circumstance must be taken into account. This is that untreated and unpainted wood can swell under the influence of moisture, and begin to dry out under the influence of the sun, giving cracks. In this case, it will be very difficult to get the boards out of the grooves. Therefore, I make the grooves in such a way that initially the boards come out very freely, and before assembling the structure, it is recommended to process and paint its elements. In addition, a wooden structure is best installed under a roof or under the crown of trees.

The container can be one- or two-section, open or closed. It is better, of course, to build a two-section version, or put two composters side by side, as they can be used in turn - use ready-made humus from one container while it matures in another. Having emptied the first composter, they switch to using compost from another, and the first is again filled with waste.

If the territory of the site allows you to place the container away from residential buildings, then it can be made open. If the composter is installed near the house or recreation areas, then it is recommended to equip it with a lid.

The third option is to make a compost bin

This method of making a compost bin is so simple that any gardener can do it himself, since the process does not require much effort and the ability to work with complex tools.

To make this version of the container, you will need the following materials:

• Welded metal mesh with cells 40 × 40 or 50 × 50 mm - 3000 mm long, 700 to 1000 mm wide - this will be the height of the basket. The width of the material is chosen at the request of the master. You can choose a regular steel mesh, but it is better if it has a polymer anti-corrosion coating.
• Thick polyethylene film or black geotextile, 3500 mm long and 750÷1050 mm wide (depending on the planned height of the future basket).
• Stationery clips - 8 ÷ 10 pieces.
• Flexible and durable knitting wire for mesh binding.

From the tools it will be necessary to prepare ordinary scissors and metal shears, pliers and a tape measure.

Illustration	Brief description of the operations performed
	The metal mesh is unfolded and leveled. A strip 3000 mm long is measured from it.
	Then the cut strip is folded into a cylinder so that the edges are overlapped by about 200 mm. This connection point along the entire height of the cylinder must be carefully tied with wire or plastic clamps - puffs.
	Further, a polyethylene film or geotextile is spread, the canvas of the desired size is measured and cut off. (The work will go faster if there is such an assistant))).
	In the next step, the cut film or geotextile is rolled up and placed inside the basket. Then, the material is distributed along the walls.
	The top edge of the film is wrapped over the edge of the mesh outward and hooked to the walls of the basket with the help of clerical clips. They will securely fix the canvas and will not allow it to unhook even when mixing the compost.
	That's it - the compost bin is ready. It turns out not at all heavy, so it can be easily transferred to any area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe site.
	Further, the resulting container is filled with various waste of plant origin, which is stacked in layers. The first, lowest layer is branches that are sprinkled with soil, then any grass, fallen leaves, waste after cleaning vegetables from the kitchen, etc. Then again comes a layer of soil, and then plant waste. After filling the basket, its contents must be spilled with water, so that it goes to the bottom of the container. After that, a special environmentally friendly product containing bacteria is bred and infused, which contributes to the rapid decomposition of plant products, which will significantly accelerate the maturation of the compost. Getting compost out of the basket is quite simple - you just need to lift one edge of the container, shovel the finished compost out with a shovel, put it in a garden cart and take it to the fertilized area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe site.

Here it is also necessary to clarify the point that if polyethylene film is used for the inner lining of the basket, then it is necessary to cut holes in it for oxygen to enter the processed mass. If it is decided to use geotextile for the compost basket, it will not be necessary to cut it, since it is a “breathable” material, that is, it allows air to pass through well, and also retains moisture, preventing its rapid evaporation.

Fourth option - concreted compost pit

The construction of a concrete structure is a rather laborious work. In addition, if the pit is arranged below the top level of the soil, it turns out to be not quite convenient for removing the finished product. In addition, the construction will cost much more than the arrangement wooden version or basket making. However, if there is a desire to work with concrete and build a capital structure, then you need to know how the work on its construction and maintenance is carried out.

Prices for geotextiles

geotextile

You can build a pit with one or two compartments. If the second option is chosen, then one compartment is intended for ripened humus, and the second for constant replenishment.

Since oxygen can enter such a hole only through the top, the cover for it must be made of mesh.

The bottom of the pit is not concreted or waterproofed, as it must remain earthen in order to earthworms had access to plant waste, as well as to ensure that the mass was moistened due to soil moisture.

In such a space that does not have aeration, the waste placed in it can begin to rot, so loosening will have to be carried out quite often, providing air access.

Arrangement works concrete structure consist of the following steps:

• The first step in the markup is to dig a pit in the selected place. In length and width, it can have any size, ranging from 1000 mm or more. Here it must be borne in mind that the internal space of the pit will decrease due to the construction of side walls. The depth of the pit can vary from 500 to 800 mm, but the deeper the pit is, the more difficult it will be to get ready-made humus from there and the more difficult it is to regularly loosen the mass.
• The next step along the walls, to the entire height of the pit, formwork is installed from boards or thick plywood. It is mounted at a distance of 100 ÷ 150 mm from the ground surfaces - this space will be the thickness of the walls.

Before sheathing the formwork frame with boards or plywood, a reinforcing mesh is mounted between it and the soil walls. After that, the formwork sheathing is fixed to the frame.

• Further, it is kneaded from sand, gravel and cement in a ratio of 2: 4: 1. This process is best carried out in a concrete mixer or in large capacity, for example, a bathtub or a spacious garden wheelbarrow is suitable, since it is desirable to pour the solution into the formwork at a time.
• At the next stage, the solution is poured into the formwork, and “bayonets”, that is, it is repeatedly pierced with a pipe or a piece of reinforcement that reaches the bottom - this process is carried out so that air pockets do not form in the concrete. After the formwork is filled, the poured concrete is left to dry and gain strength. It is desirable to carry out demoulding not earlier than in 10-12 days.
• After the mortar has hardened, the walls of the pit must be raised above the ground with the help of brickwork, or by building the formwork again from above finished walls reinforcing the pit, reinforce it and pour concrete. The height of the side framing the edges of the pit should be 150 ÷ ​​200 mm.
• The walls of the pit can also be strengthened brickwork, but under it, along the perimeter of the bottom of the pit, it will be necessary to pour concrete with a strip base.

If it is decided to decorate the walls with brickwork, then it should not be made solid. It is best if there are holes in it that will allow ground moisture and earthworms to penetrate into the pit.

In such a pit (without air access to its lower part), the waste processing process until the humus is fully ripe will last about two years. And in order to speed it up, you will need to pour into the plant mass a special solution containing live bacteria designed for such conditions.

Fifth option - slate composter

Building a slate compost pit is fairly simple and affordable way, especially in the case when the old, seemingly unnecessary roofing material has been preserved in the household.

It doesn't matter if the sheets are slightly damaged, as air will be only good for the plant mass, especially since slate containers are most often made open. The slate will only serve as walls, preventing the contents from spilling outside the area organized for the composter. To create such a box, you need to do the following work:

• As in previous cases, you first need to decide on the size and design of the container, that is, how many sections it will have. Optimal size the sides of each of the sections of the two-section version are 800 × 1000 or 1000 × 1000 mm. The height of all walls, except for the front, should be 700÷1000 mm, depending on the expected amount of waste. The front wall can have a height of 300 ÷ 500 mm, which will be convenient for loading waste and sampling ready-made humus.
• Having chosen a platform for installing the box and marking it, the top layer of soil is removed from it by 200 ÷ 250 mm for free penetration of soil moisture and earthworms into the mass.
• To fix the slate sheets in a vertical position, wooden or metal posts are installed around the perimeter of the site. They may require from four to six, depending on the design of the composter.
• Then, slate is fixed to the vertical posts. It is desirable that between the lower edge of the sheets and the soil surface there is a gap of 20 ÷ 25 mm, which will allow oxygen to freely enter the lower layers of the plant mass.

For faster processing, it is recommended to moisten the stacked waste by adding composting agents with live bacteria to the water.

The sixth option is a compost pit in the ground

This is probably the most common way to arrange a compost pit, which is often chosen by not very experienced gardeners. As you can see from the above information, this is far from the most good option composter, as the vegetable waste in it will begin to rot, rather than decompose.

metal mesh prices

metal grid

Such a pit is best used simply for dumping organic waste that is not intended for the manufacture of humus. If the pit is built for this purpose, then it is best to locate it away from residential buildings, since rotting garbage attracts a large number of flies, which will seek to visit not only the garbage pit, but also the premises of the house.

If this option still turns out to be attractive as a compost pit, then it will be necessary to loosen the plant waste folded into it very often in order to provide the aeration necessary for proper processing.

It is not difficult to equip such a pit - for this, a foundation pit 400 ÷ 600 mm deep is digging away from the house. The size of its sides can be different, but the best option is 600 × 600 or 700 × 700 mm. The large size of an unreinforced pit can lead to erosion of the soil around it, that is, it will begin to crumble and expand. If you need a pit of larger dimensions, then its walls must be strengthened with at least slate, setting it to the full depth.

It is recommended that kitchen waste dumped into the pit, such as peeling vegetables and fruits, be sprinkled with grass and a small amount of soil - this will partially help hide the unpleasant smell that attracts flies.

It would be useful to add special substances to such a composter, however, it is necessary to choose environmentally friendly preparations, since chemistry can spread to garden beds with rain and ground moisture or get under the roots of trees.

The seventh option is composting waste directly on the ground

Another method of preparing fertilizers, which is often used in rural areas, is the storage of plant residues in the form of a haystack. It is accessible to any owner and the simplest method of compost production. However, it has some inconveniences, since it is rather inconvenient to loosen the mass stacked in a pile, as well as to get ready-made compost from under the upper fresh layers.

If, nevertheless, it is decided to opt for this option, then before laying the waste, it is recommended to lay a layer of branches on the ground, which will allow oxygen to freely penetrate into the lower layers of the haystack. In this variant, the compost will reach full maturity after one and a half to two years.

If it is not possible to build a composter and even perform the laborious work of building and loosening a stack of plant waste, then there is another simplest way for making compost. It can be called “feminine”, since all this is done without any special physical effort.

In this case, the waste is also piled right on top of the soil. The best place for this there will be partial shade, which can always be found under the trees of the garden. You can organize such a composter right on a temporarily unused garden bed, covering the laid plant waste with any dark material. This compost heap does not have to be tall, so it can be easily loosened with a pitchfork. If there is a lot of waste, then several heaps are organized in different parts of the garden. With this approach, the finished humus will not have to be transported from one corner of the garden to another, since it will be produced in the area that needs to be fertilized.

Learn how to do with step by step instructions, in a new article on our portal.

However, in this case, bioactivators cannot be dispensed with. Composting works are carried out in the following order:

• A pile of plant waste is laid on the soil with a height of no more than 500 mm. Each layer is sprinkled with garden soil.
• Then, all waste is poured with water, since all layers must be wet.
• Further, according to the attached instructions, the bioactivator is diluted, infused, and the whole pile is poured with this solution.
• Wet biomass is covered with dark material, but in such a way that the lower part of the heap is ajar for free access of oxygen. If there is no dark film or, then an old oilcloth that does not let in sunlight will do. The corners of the covering material are pressed against the ground by heavy objects such as stones or bricks.
• The finished structure is left for overheating. Well, you need to loosen it about once every two weeks.
• According to experienced gardeners who use this method of making humus, it fully matures in 5-6 months.

Biological preparations for the production of compost

Now a few words should be said about the preparations that are used to make compost.

Today, in specialized stores, you can find a large number of different products that help reduce the period of decomposition of biological waste.

When bioactivators are used to make compost, it matures much faster than when plant waste decomposes in natural conditions. And this is especially important when the site needs to be fertilized annually, as it is constantly used for growing crops.

Bioactive products containing, contribute not only fast production humus, but also destruction harmful microorganisms, eliminating unpleasant odors, as well as enriching the soil with minerals. The manufacture of solutions from concentrates is carried out according to the instructions provided by the manufacturer on the packaging. However, experienced gardeners advise after diluting bioactivators to add a little sugar or old jam to them. This will help to give a kind of "acceleration" of the initial activation of living bacteria that are in a "sleeping" state before breeding. After dilution, the solution should brew a little. Interesting - if it is kneaded in a bucket, then you can even visually observe how the process will go activation.

The table below shows a few preparations that can be found in stores selling products for the treatment and fertilization of garden plots.

If the nearest store did not find the above funds, then the seller will definitely offer other options for bioactivators. Before purchasing the selected drug, you should carefully study its characteristics, manufacturer's recommendations for use and instructions for preparing the working solution.

In conclusion, I would like to say that according to the information presented above about the existing options for arranging a composter for processing plant waste, it is quite possible to decide on the choice of a suitable option. It depends on the financial possibilities and practical experience work with various materials and tools. And the presence of a compost pit on garden plot, in any of its incarnations, is always a big plus.

And for completeness of information - watch a very informative video, which contains recommendations for self-production of compost from plant waste.

Video: Tips for a gardener on making quality compost

The better the quality of the soil, the richer the crop grown on this land will be. But it happens that the initial data is not very good, and you have to fertilize the soil. To do this, you can use various fertilizers, but it is best to make a compost pit, which will become a source of environmentally friendly pure material. Consider how a do-it-yourself compost pit should be made: manufacturing options and materials suitable for this purpose.

In order to understand how to properly make a compost pit, you first need to figure out what it is used for. Typically, a compost pit is used to dispose of organic waste, which, as a result of the decay process, turns into organic fertilizer. There are many design options and each owner can only choose the most suitable option for themselves.

A compost heap does a great job of utilizing grass clippings and fallen leaves. Under the influence of time, moisture and microorganisms, all this turns into a fertilizer that can be used to grow any type of crop, both in gardens and in the garden.

Making a compost heap of organic fertilizers with your own hands is not difficult at all, especially since there are many ideas for self-implementation that can be used as a basis. You can make a compost pit yourself using pallets, which are usually used for transporting and storing building materials. They can be bought at a fairly low price, or quite possibly just found on your own site.

How to make a compost pit in the country: choosing a location

Speaking about the arrangement of the compost heap, one cannot but mention the importance of its correct location. First of all, the structure must be sufficiently removed from residential buildings. In addition, the place of its installation should be well blown by the wind in order to avoid stagnation of air and the concentration of an unpleasant odor emanating from it. In addition, access to the compost must be ensured so that the process of adding raw materials or removing ready-made fertilizer takes place as comfortably as possible.

Helpful advice! In order for the decay process to proceed faster, it is recommended to periodically mix the layers inside the pile. Therefore, even at the stage of planning and arrangement, it is worth considering how this can be done.

In addition, one must take into account the following criteria selection suitable for the site compost pit:

• the chosen site should be located at a sufficiently large distance from any sources of drinking water, such as a well or well. The distance between these objects must be at least 25 m;
• if the site is not located evenly, but under a slope, then you need to make a compost pit below the water level (preferably at the lowest point of the site). This will prevent rotting runoff and clean water from entering;
• you should inquire in advance about the most frequent direction of the wind, since the pit often becomes a source of a rather strong and unpleasant odor, and can cause discomfort to both you and your neighbors;
• it is worth taking care that there is not only a free approach to the pit, but also enough space to be able to bring waste or remove ready-made compost using a wheelbarrow.

Helpful advice! For a compost pit, it is advisable to choose a shaded place, since the sun's rays adversely affect the process of decay, significantly slowing down the composting process.

What can and cannot be put in a compost pit

In order for the fertilizer obtained as a result of decay to be of high quality and bring benefits to plants, and not harm, each summer resident needs to familiarize himself in advance with the list of those products that may or may not be added to compost. So, for composting are great:

• grass, weeds, leaves, hay, straw, etc.;
• berries, fruits and any peelings from them (raw);
• waste from wood products that have not been painted;
• paper products (napkins, bags, cardboard) in crushed form;
• waste from the preparation of tea, coffee or cereals;
• branches and roots of trees after grinding;
• needles;
• herbivore manure (biennial only);
• wood ash.

Important! The percentage of cleanings from products such as potatoes and tomatoes in the compost should not exceed 15-20%.

• any plants that have been affected by pests;
• plants exposed to diseases such as powdery mildew, late blight, etc.;
• excrement of domestic animals, as they can be infected with helminth eggs;
• bones and leftovers from meat products. They will provoke an extremely unpleasant odor, and will also become food for rats;
• inorganic waste - plastic, rubber, synthetic fabrics and metal;
• plants that have been treated with herbicides;
• the remains of cabbage, the rotting of which provokes an extremely strong and unpleasant odor.

As for the composting of weeds, experts recommend putting them in a separate pile, which is covered with a film on top. So, the risk that the plants will take root again is excluded and one can count on their death with one hundred percent probability.

If, however, weeds are added to the general pile, then one often has to deal with the fact that perennial plants take root, especially if as a result regular watering or rains, the humidity is high enough.

Important! To speed up the process of decay of waste, it is recommended to pre-grind them. This is especially true for elements such as branches, roots and paper products.

Having figured out what can and cannot be put in a compost pit, it remains only to familiarize yourself with the rules for caring for waste in order to ensure that it rots as efficiently as possible. Moreover, the duration of the period during which compost will be formed directly depends on the correctness of the care carried out:

• humidity is the important indicator, which affects the decay of waste and the formation of compost. In order to maintain the desired level, it is recommended to periodically water a bunch of watering cans. At the same time, it is important that in the end it turns out wet, but not wet, since an abundance of water will adversely affect the viability and activity of bacteria;
• once a month, you need to carefully stir up the pile, thus ensuring the access of oxygen. This allows the waste not only to rot, but to burn out. At the same time, if there is no way to completely dig everything up, you can use a pitchfork and pierce a bunch in as many places as possible;
• to accelerate the maturation process of compost, the addition of nitrogen is required, which is found in large quantities in the green parts of plants, as well as in slurry.

The formation of high-quality compost usually takes 1-1.5 years. During this time, almost any waste and residues will fully decompose. The readiness of the compost can be recognized visually and by smell. Ready mix is a loose mass Brown and has the smell of forest land.

Compost pit: what is it and why is it needed

The issue of compost application is one of the most popular. After all, not every summer resident knows how and why to use the resulting mixture, and how great its benefits are. In fact, you can fertilize the soil with compost for almost any plant. Cucumbers, peppers, zucchini and pumpkins respond best to such top dressing. The result can be seen already in the next harvest season - the fruits grow large, have a bright and saturated color, taste and aroma are well expressed.

But there are also plants for which compost is not so useful. For example, root crops, tomatoes, melons and watermelons should not be abundantly fertilized in this way, as this leads to the fact that the yield decreases, and the amount of green mass, on the contrary, increases.

Strawberries respond well to compost, especially if you first cut it “at the root” and overlay it with a semi-decomposed composition. Then all this needs to be watered, and all that remains is to wait for new fresh foliage, as well as a bountiful harvest next season.

DIY compost pit: manufacturing options and design requirements

In order to properly build a compost pit, you need to understand how the compost heap should be arranged. There are many options for making your own hands, but first of all, you should pay attention to the fact that it should consist of three parts. In this case, you need to install 8 support posts, each of which must be processed with a protective agent.

Helpful advice! Machine oil, fuel oil or even tar can be used as a protective composition for posts.

A fence can be used as a fence on one of the sides, and boards are better suited for the rest. Partitions are constructed from them, in which holes for ventilation are necessarily left. This contributes to the process of decay. Also be sure to install a door that allows you to access the compost.

Making a compost pit in the country with your own hands involves ensuring the proper level of ventilation and at the same time protecting the contents from precipitation. So that the compost heap does not turn into a swamp, it must be covered with a special lid of a suitable size during the rainy season. And if the weather conditions are not too severe, then it is quite acceptable to use plastic wrap for this purpose.

Another option is to use construction pallets which are pre-parsed. Using circular machine, boards can be divided into individual elements, and then assemble a suitable design from them. In this case, it is better to fasten the boards vertically. The front board can be fixed with adhesive. To give such a structure stability, it is necessary to use building level and trim the bottom rails.

It is also important that the height of the walls of a homemade composter be such that it is convenient for a person of any height to add, turn and remove compost.

Interesting! You can pay attention to the designs of compost pits made according to Finnish technology. In this case, some design features are of interest, for example, when you extract humus from one compartment, it is automatically filled with raw materials from the next one.

DIY compost pit: manufacturing options, photo examples

The type of compost pit is determined based on several factors. One of them is the installation method. Consider all the existing options:

• allocation of a certain place for organizing a compost pit. At the same time, a foundation pit is initially prepared, which is very similar to a well, but at the same time has a smaller depth. The walls of the pit are additionally strengthened to prevent shedding of the soil and are sheathed with an indent of 20-25 cm from the bottom. This distance is necessary in order to provide the microorganism with free access to waste;
• another option is to install a special container on the garden plot, designed to collect waste and process it into compost. This method allows you to get the finished product at any time. At the heart of this design is a pit with formwork, as well as special box made from boards. When implementing this option, it is extremely important to pay due attention to the organization of ventilation;
• a do-it-yourself compost heap is the easiest way to solve the problem. To do this, it is enough to make a substrate consisting of sand, gravel and dry grass. Waste is simply stacked on top, which over time will begin to rot.

Related article:

Detailed construction technology of structures: soil preparation, frame manufacturing, its installation and filling.

You can make a compost bin with your own hands using many different technologies and instructions. The proposed designs may differ in the materials that are required for work, dimensions, properties and ease of use.

Helpful advice! Regardless of the type of structure chosen, before starting the laying of raw materials inside the structure, it is necessary to thoroughly loosen the bottom and install ventilation holes.

DIY compost bin: manufacturing options and instructions

Before making a compost pit with your own hands, it is advisable to consider as many options and designs as possible that can be used for this purpose. We will analyze in detail the instructions for making the most popular boxes made from various materials.

Garden compost bin: features of installation and operation

A garden composter may well be presented in the form of a large box, divided into several sections. Usually they make two or three compartments, but experts strongly recommend stopping at the option with three sections, since each of them has its own purpose: the first one is used for laying waste, the second one is for waste ripening, and the third one stores ready-made compost.

Depending on the individual wishes of the owner, the composter can be stationary or mobile (move on wheels). In this case, the recommended height of the box should not exceed 1 meter, and the size of each section should be about 1-1.5 meters.

Important! All wooden elements must be treated with a special protective composition designed to provide the material with reliable protection against harmful insects, as well as moisture.

To make a compost bin with your own hands, you need to follow next order actions:

1. 8 wooden blocks are dug into the ground;
2. With the help of boards, also previously opened with a protective compound, partitions are constructed. To do this, they are attached to supports at a certain distance from each other.
3. In the front part, two compartments should be sheathed only to the middle, and only one lower board is nailed to the third. Doors are mounted on the first two from above.
4. The back and end parts are completely sheathed.
5. The entire structure is covered with two layers of moisture-resistant paint.
6. Finally, handles, latches, etc. are attached.

At the bottom of such a box, drainage must necessarily be laid, which may consist, for example, of dry tree branches. Immediately after this, you can proceed directly to the laying of waste inside the structure.

How to make a compost pit in the country using wooden boards

Compost pit - perfect solution, if necessary, do not spoil the appearance of the site with the appearance of a pile of waste. The formation of fertilizer in this design takes much longer, and in order for the process to proceed as correctly and efficiently as possible, it is important to take care of proper arrangement and access the right amount oxygen.

Work procedure:

1. First of all, it is necessary to dig a compost pit, the width of which will be 1.5 m, the length is 2 m, and the depth is about 1 meter.
2. In the corners, you need to dig in wooden blocks, observing an indent from the walls of 20 cm on each side.
3. In increments of 5 cm, boards are attached to these posts.
4. The resulting box is divided into two parts using a wooden shield.

The bottom of the compost pit is filled with a ten-centimeter layer of tree bark, branches and straw. Such a mixture will take on the role of drainage, which will allow excess moisture and additionally ventilate the raw material.

Initially, only one of the compartments should be filled with waste. Then, when one is half full, the compost must be transferred to the second compartment. This procedure will allow you to enrich it with oxygen as much as possible.

Important! The bottom and sides of the composter do not need to be covered with anything so that earthworms can freely get inside, which take an active part in the waste processing process.

How to make a slate compost bin

Slate is a durable material that is great for creating a structure designed to collect and process organic waste into compost. The procedure for creating a suitable design consists of several stages:

• selecting a suitable site and taking measurements to determine suitable size pits;
• according to the marks, a not too large recess is dug, in the corners of which supports are installed, which can be used as boards or metal pipes;
• slate sheets are installed along the perimeter of the pit;
• using the same sheets, the resulting container is divided into several parts (two or three).

The use of this design is carried out in accordance with all the same recommendations that are given for compost pits made of wood.

How to make a concrete compost pit in the country

With a little more time and attention given to the process of arranging a compost pit, as a result, it can last several decades without any problems. To do this, it is enough to concrete it. You can do this in the following way:

• you need to dig a hole about 80 cm deep, 2 m wide and 3 m long;
• make a formwork inside the pit;
• then you need to prepare a solution consisting of sand, gravel and cement. To do this, pour 5 liters of water into a bucket and add 5 kg of sand and cement to it so that the ratio of dry components is 3: 1;
• the resulting solution is poured into the formwork;
• using wooden boards and a chain-link mesh (a metal frame is also suitable), a cover is being built for the pit.

It is very important that in the case of using boards for mounting the cover, there should be a distance between the elements necessary for normal ventilation.

Compost pit using Finnish technology: the secrets of mounting the structure

The main requirement for structures made according to Finnish technology is compliance with certain dimensions. The height and width of the box must be the same and be 1 m. This is extremely important, because in a smaller box the raw material will simply dry out, turning not into compost, but into dust. Large sizes are unacceptable for another reason - in this case, there is a risk of burning the contents from too high a temperature.

For the manufacture of such a structure, it is best to use wood. Slate in this case is not a very suitable option, since structures made from it are characterized by a longer period of waste decomposition. Again, a cheap and at the same time quite convenient option is a Finnish pallet compost pit.

Algorithm for assembling a compost pit using Finnish technology:

1. from pre-treated antiseptics wood is going to frame a box of the right size.
2. Then the finished frame is sheathed with boards. The boards are tightly placed only on the partitions separating the compartments. On the side walls, the boards should be located with an indent of 1 cm.
3. The back wall of the structure is also sewn up with boards at a distance of 1 cm.
4. The bottom of the box is covered using a slab. At the same time, it is also important to maintain some distance between the elements so that excess liquid can be effectively discharged.
5. In the lower part of the front wall of the structure, a small door is equipped, the height of which is usually 30 cm. It is fixed using ordinary door hinges.
6. The roof of the structure is made gable, while one of the slopes is attached to hinges so that it simultaneously acts as a door, making it possible to fill waste inside.

Interesting! In one box, the size of which is 1 × 1 m, you can prepare an amount of compost sufficient to fertilize a plot of land of 5-7 acres.

Compost pit-bio toilet: what is it?

Another special type of compost pit is a dry closet, which is able to turn human waste products into compost. It is a structure consisting of two containers, the volume of each of which is 80 liters.

The use of this type of dry closet is as follows: after visiting the toilet, you need to turn a special handle, which is responsible for supplying a portion of a special mixture consisting of peat and sawdust. Thanks to this mechanism, the mixture is distributed evenly and falls asleep the waste that has got inside.

It is quite possible to use such a dry closet composter and not too much for disposal. a large number food waste, simply throwing it inside and falling asleep with a dry mixture. When the first container is completely filled, it must be moved aside and replaced with the second one, which can be used in the same way. At this time, the first container will contain the compost mixture, completely ready for use.

Important! The compost obtained in such a composter will be very concentrated. This must be taken into account, and before introducing it into the soil, it is necessary to dilute the mixture with soil, sand or peat.

Criteria for choosing a ready-made composter for giving

At the same time, everything large quantity owners of suburban areas tend to move away from the use improvised designs giving preference to purchased models. Consider what advantages and disadvantages ready-made designs have, and what parameters you need to pay special attention to before making a purchase.

In most cases, preference is given to simple and convenient composters that are easy to assemble and operate on their own. But since the number of proposals for modern market extremely large, independently determine the most suitable option it gets really difficult. As a guide, experts recommend using certain criteria, since models can be:

• collapsible or solid;
• with temperature sensor;
• with a special device that allows you to loosen the contents;
• with a mesh instead of a bottom, which provides protection against rodents;
• various shapes and sizes.

Composters also differ in the material that was used for manufacturing. So, plastic is the most popular today, since it has a low weight, which allows it to be moved around the site without problems, and its service life is extremely long. If the structure is planned as stationary, then you can consider the option of acquiring a metal composter. On sale you can find wooden models, but they are not very common due to their short service life and exposure to external factors.

How to choose and buy a compost pit: an overview of the most popular brands and models

As examples, we can consider several composters that are most popular and have received many positive reviews from users.

Composter L&T Globe: features and specifications

This model is highly regarded by permanent residents country houses, since it can be used throughout the year, and not every product can boast of this. The L&T Globe was developed by Finnish specialists who took into account the harsh weather conditions of the local climate. This allows the composter to function without problems even in the most severe winters.

Another advantage of this model is the absence of small and heavy parts, so the operation of the device is quite simple. The working volume of the container is 310 liters, and durable polyethylene was used as a material for the manufacture. In order for the system to function even in the cold season, a 15 mm thermal insulation layer was provided, which allows maintaining the optimum temperature inside.

Due to the small height of this composter, a person of absolutely any height can fill and empty it. Moreover, for even more comfort, the design provides a removable top.

Thus, all these design features allow creating the most favorable environment for efficient waste composting. The microclimate, which is maintained inside the tank, promotes the growth and development of microorganisms that can process waste. The developers did not forget about the ventilation system, which is presented in the form of drainage holes in the bottom of the composter.

Important! The ventilation system of this model can be used in two modes: summer/winter. It is important to make the switch in a timely manner, using a shutter specially provided for this.

Bulbeo composter: features and benefits

This model is the development of Italian specialists, which exists in domestic markets in two versions that differ in size (700 and 900 liters). Initially, this model was intended exclusively for the processing of plant waste, but, as practice shows, it also copes well with the composting of other organic waste.

This composter belongs to collapsible models and consists of separate parts that are simply assembled and, if necessary, disassembled again. This allows you to rearrange the container from one place to another and even transport it. Moreover, when disassembled, this design takes up very little space and can easily fit in the trunk of an ordinary car.

Among the main advantages of this choice are:

• the ability to get free access to the structure from six sides;
• it is convenient to take out the finished compost thanks to the hinged doors;
• on the site, this model looks quite aesthetically pleasing, because it resembles a flowering bud in shape;
• discreet dark green color allows you to organically fit the structure into any landscape design.

Durable plastic is used as a material for this model, which provides reliable protection of the contents from wind and strong temperature changes. According to the developers, the rounded shape of the walls contributes to the maturation of the compost.

Of course, there are also ventilation holes that provide access to the required amount of oxygen. Anyone can easily assemble this model, because it does not require any tools or additional fasteners. The finished structure weighs only 19 kg, and its height is 885 mm.

Compost pit products: features and benefits of use

Having figured out how to make a compost pile, many expect that they will soon be able to use the nutrient fertilizer made in it. But the reality is that the natural maturation of compost can last up to 2 years. Of course, you can just be patient and wait. But you can go the other way by buying special agent, which contributes to the maturation of compost and accelerates this process.

Interesting! The question of the use of excipients is especially relevant for those regions of the country where the warm period is short. If a warm weather lasts only 2-3 months, then the ripening period of the compost has to be reduced artificially.

So, there are several drugs that are well suited for this purpose and are recommended not only by experts, but also by real users. They all have different names but, in general, the principle of their action is the same. As an example, consider the Tamir tool.

Tamir is an extremely complex drug, which includes a whole complex of microorganisms that, in natural environment responsible for ensuring the decomposition of organic debris and waste. Due to the high concentration of these bacteria, the composting process is many times faster, and after 2-3 weeks, full maturation occurs.

It is worth noting that the compost obtained in this way is not completely decomposed waste and is somewhat different from the usual consistency. But its final decomposition will occur directly in the soil, which will bring even greater benefits to plants.

Important! It is believed that compost obtained as a result of exposure to auxiliary preparations, as a fertilizer, is many times more useful than that obtained naturally. Therefore, answering the common question whether it is possible to use funds for compost pits, the answer is unequivocal - not only possible, but even necessary.

All funds of this type are used according to the following technology:

• if the heap has not yet been formed, then the drug is added on top of each new layer, after which it is all poured with water;
• in the already finished heap, you need to make a recess to the full height, into which the drug and water are added.

Other ways to speed up the maturation of the compost heap

In addition to complex preparations, other ways can be used to stimulate the processing of organic waste and the maturation of compost in the pit. Let's consider each of them in more detail:

• the use of rotted manure, which is quite capable of replacing biochemical preparations intended for composting. At the same time, it is forbidden to use fresh manure, as it can become a source of not only helminth eggs, but also weed seeds, pathogens, etc.;
• a solution made from ordinary yeast. To prepare it, you need 1 liter of water and about 1 tablespoon of dry yeast. To this is added 200 grams of sugar (1 cup). Such a solution is poured into the recesses made in the compost heap;
• herbal infusion. To improve the effect, it is mixed with chicken manure or slurry in a ratio of 5:2. It is important to know that the amount of nitrogen contained in fresh bird droppings is much greater than in manure, which means that the ratio should be different.

Helpful advice! In order to regularly get bird droppings into the compost heap naturally, you can install a feeder above it. This will greatly facilitate and speed up the process.

The methods of accelerating maturation also include artificial moistening of raw materials, its tedding and other measures designed to create the most comfortable microclimate for composting.

How to arrange a compost pit in the country with your own hands

Whatever design is chosen for making compost, it is unlikely that its appearance will turn out to be attractive enough in the end. Most likely, no one will want to look at the compost pit, so it will be useful to think about how you can use original design to improve its appearance.

The problem of masking the compost pit is especially relevant for small plots, since almost the entire territory is in plain sight. Although it happens that even for spacious plots, the owners use various design strategies to give the compost pit a more attractive look. So, in order to hide such an object, you can use:

• camouflage with plants and hedges;
• artificial decorations and stationary fences.

Works related to the manufacture of artificial fences are necessarily carried out in an open area located at some distance from the location of the compost pit. This is necessary in order to make it more convenient to work and to be able to move freely without being subjected to discomfort from the smell emitted by the heap.

The main requirement for such a fence is that it should hide the entire site from the eyes of guests and owners. That is, the compost heap should be completely hidden behind it, and the appearance of the fence should be as attractive as possible and be in harmony with the environment.

Much longer and somewhat more difficult to create hedges for this purpose. But they look much more natural and elegant. The main thing is to pay attention to the choice suitable plant so that in the end the fence is not too bulky and lush, and does not break the overall structure of the site.

Helpful advice! You can use light translucent screens entwined with vines as a fence. They do an excellent job with the task, and at the same time do not take up much space, so they are quite suitable for both large and small areas.

Best ideas for decorating a silo

Other elements, such as special screens or screens, can also be used to mask the place where the compost heap is located. Bamboo fences have proven to be excellent. Plants also look good if carefully planted in a row.

At the same time, it is strictly forbidden to equip a compost pit directly under fruit trees, as this can lead to their death. Between the compost and plants you need to maintain some distance.

The following design methods are the most popular:

• planted in a row fruit trees and berry bushes;
• potted gardens, placed on several levels to hide the entire structure;
• installation of an object of small architecture: a gazebo or a fenced barbecue (of course, in this case, you should make sure that the unpleasant smell of decaying waste does not interfere);
• flower beds with tall plants;
• supporting wall.

Special mention should be made of camouflage. compost heaps in the event that they were used Plastic container. In this case, it is not necessary to completely mask it. You can use it as a decoration of the site by painting it in bright color and planting around beautiful flowers. You can draw any pattern on such a container, thus giving it originality.

It is easiest to work with small compost pits, which can be hidden with an abundance of flowers or even shrubs. Speaking of which, a compost yard is a great place to experiment with growing new varieties of annuals.

You can clearly see how composters are made and designed for giving with your own hands by watching training lessons and detailed instructions. It is enough just to decide which design is best suited in a particular case, as well as take into account your own individual requirements and wishes. Otherwise, there will be no problems, since there are as many options for do-it-yourself compost pits as there are ready-made models.

How to make a compost pit with your own hands: video instruction