Beam or Beam? From what to build a house or a bath? Construction of a wooden house. Log houses and baths, from a log house, hewn and rounded logs Log house from hewn logs

A house made of debarked logs looks like round logs, but has a number of significant differences. Such material is processed manually. The main advantage is processing technology. The bark is removed in a thin layer, allowing you to save a layer of resin that protects the tree in the future.

Turnkey barked log house: pros and cons

Undoubtedly, manual technology wood processing allows you to carefully preserve protective layer wood, maximizing the life of the structure. This approach allows you to make the cottage warm and durable. At the same time, reduce financial expenses for the construction of a house from barked logs.

First, we note the advantages of the material:

• Low thermal conductivity (almost half can reduce the cost of space heating).
• Phenomenal durability (the log house is highly resistant to aggressive environment).
• Environmentally friendly material.
• A special microclimate that is created in the cottage.
• In such housing there will always be Fresh air and there will be no humidity. This ability is provided due to the fact that the tree "breathes".
• No additional wall processing required.
• The amazing beauty of the log house, due to the unique pattern of logs.

Among weaknesses the following can be distinguished:

• The price of a house made of debarked logs is quite high, it will be cheaper to build from logs. This is due to the fact that the painstaking work of carpenters eats up a significant part of the costs.
• Over time, the color of the log house can change from light to dark. Don't be scared, it's natural process, which is on performance characteristics houses made of sanded logs are not reflected in any way.
• Like all wooden structures, they are subject to shrinkage. It is necessary to start finishing work no earlier than in a year and a half.
• Lack of craftsmen Today, finding truly professionals in their field is not an easy task. Therefore, the price of a turnkey barked log house is quite high.

In any case, you should not refuse such a noble material as a debarked log. Modern construction companies who are building log cabins, are able to offer the client not only projects of houses made of debarked logs, the prices are objectively justified, but also specialists who are able to skillfully master the skills of manual debarking and assembling a cottage.

Projects of houses from hewn logs

This building material has received particular positive feedback from consumers. Like debarked houses, hewn log houses are made by hand, so the procedure for processing and laying a log house is far from the fastest process, but worth it.

Why is the material so popular? A cottage from such a forest is original, it is impossible to find an identical building. This feature brings such buildings closer to the traditions of Russian architecture.

Even despite the fact that it is difficult to build such housing, however, hewn logs are more durable and less prone to damage due to their properties. negative impact environment. Manual cutting increases the wear resistance of the material, due to the fact that during processing the protective layer of resin is not completely removed. And additional antiseptic impregnations able to further extend the life of the log house.

However, the prices for hewn log houses are quite high. But such an investment is worthwhile.

The walls of a real classic wooden house should be made of round logs. Thickness wooden wall not less than 35cm, can keep warm, along with brickwork 1.5m thick. Raw wood for building a house needs to be prepared. This includes removing the bark, planing to the desired shape, drying, impregnating the wood protective equipment… There are two ways to get round log, this is a manual tes and a log running on a machine (rounding).

is a laborious and expensive method. After all, manual processing is always valued higher. high technology. You can plan a log with both an ax and a planer. When processing with a planer, the log is pre-cleaned from the bark with a manual scraper.

Mature forest is selected for manual trimming conifers, aged 50 years and above. Select trees of approximately the same age and the same relative size. The distances between the growth rings of a log are located more densely on the north side of the tree. This side of the log is placed outside when building a house. The craftsman picks up the logs one by one during the construction of the log house, stacking the thick ends of the logs on the thin ones and vice versa.

When trimming a log with an ax, the porosity of wood decreases, due to its compaction from all sides. The most popular diameters of hewn logs are 24 cm or 32 cm, but if desired, any log diameter can be cut down.

The advantages of manual trimming are:

1. Processing of trunks of any thickness. How larger diameter, the warmer the house will be;
2. The outer layer rich in resins is preserved, which protects the log from atmospheric influences;
3. At manual processing logs, there is a uniform drying of wood and the log cracks less.
4. Using different kinds cutting with an ax, you can decorate the house with various ornamental or plot carvings.

The disadvantages of manual trimming are:

1. Spending a lot of time processing logs
2. For drying (curing) natural method logs large diameter takes a year and a half, or even two years.
3. The presentation of a chopped log is inferior to a rounded log

When assembling a log house from a hewn log, the gaps between the crowns are laid with moss or tow. Caulking and cutting corners. The finished log house shrinks throughout the year. A year later, you need to produce an additional caulk of seams with combed tow. Sometimes you have to caulk twice. When all the cracks are closed, the house keeps heat well.

It is pleasant to live in a wooden house, because wood is a natural material, it always pleases with its warmth.

The main mistakes in the construction of chopped wooden houses.

Chopped houses faithfully serve people for more than one millennium. Houses made of solid wood give their owners the incomparable pleasure of living in a comfortable microenvironment. Solid wood has a high heat capacity (2.4 times higher than that of ceramic brick), which makes it possible to smooth out daily temperature fluctuations. Also, the porous structure of the tree allows you to naturally regulate the humidity in the room due to the cycles of absorption and evaporation of moisture. The frame is relatively resistant to soil and foundation movements. The wooden surface often does not require any additional processing, except for grinding and coating with antiseptics to create beautiful interiors.

However, only correctly cut down trees will give comfort to their owners. wooden houses. The construction of a log house requires high carpentry skills at the level of 6th category. Without experience and qualifications, it is almost impossible to cut down wooden house without mistakes. And mistakes during construction can negate all the advantages log house. Houses built with mistakes are easy to recognize: builders or owners have to additionally insulate and sheathe them from the outside and inside to hide defects, eliminate through blowing of locks in the corners and interventional seams. One of modern options houses made of solid wood, practically devoid of the disadvantages of log cabins, are houses made of glued beams. Thanks to the features of this technology, blowing through the seams and cracking wood in such houses is practically impossible.

In this article, we will briefly touch on the most common mistakes in the construction of log houses.

1. Log preparation errors.

Mistakes in the choice of material for construction.

According to GOST 9463-88 “Softwood round timber”, pine, spruce, fir and larch round timber is suitable for building houses. Larch is the most expensive material, the hardest and most resistant to decay. Spruce has a lower density, excessive knotting and is prone to more cracking. The optimal tree for building a house is a pine aged from 80 to 120 (140) years old, grown in the northern regions (Arkhangelsk, Angarsk, in Karelia) on dry sandy soil, at least 24 meters high. The best pine logs have a dark red or yellow-red core, indicating high density wood. More loose varieties have a pale yellow core. The forest of winter felling, contrary to folk legends, actually has a higher moisture content of sapwood (25-50% higher than in summer), large quantity starch and, therefore, more easily affected by fungi. It is possible to determine the round timber of winter felling using a qualitative test for starch: a stroke is applied to the debarked wood with an iodine pencil. If the stroke turns blue - in front of you is a tree cut down in winter.
For construction, it is allowed (this does not mean that you must agree to the purchase of such materials) timber with such defects as fungal blue and colored sap stains (no more than 1/20 - 1/10 of the end diameter), wormholes (no more than 5-10 pieces per 1 running meter), side cracks from shrinkage no more than 1/20 -1/5 of the end diameter, trunk curvature no more than 1-2% (1-2 cm per 1 linear meter). Logs used for construction must have a run-off value (thinning of the log to the top) of no more than 0.8 cm per 1 m of length.

Rot (sapwood, rotten, sound) and tobacco knots (decayed knots of brown or white color, crumbling under load) are not allowed in round timber.

The minimum diameter of round timber for a residential building is 22-24 cm. The width of the grooves should be at least half the diameter of the log, and in northern regions can be increased even more. With a smaller size of the grooves, the consumption of timber decreases, but the thickness of the interventional seams becomes smaller, and the house becomes more “cold”.
The cutting of corners can be carried out without residue "in the paw" or with the remainder - "in the corner". Cutting "into a corner" makes the connections more reliable, and the log house more stable. In addition, the wood allowance better protects the castle from the effects of atmospheric factors. The cutting "in the paw" is usually used for the subsequent sheathing of corners or the entire log house. For residential buildings the device for connecting logs in the corners must have internal locking elements that exclude the through blowing of the corner (connecting logs "in a bowl" with a barrier or "in a cloud" with a barrier). Due to its geometry (inverted bowl), cutting "in the cloud" allows better removal of moisture and faster drying of the joint. Cutting internal locking elements requires a highly skilled carpenter, such work takes more time and costs more. Otherwise, the corners of the residential building will be protected from blowing only with tow ( heat-insulating material). This is one of the main disadvantages of round log houses, where log joints are manufactured industrially without additional internal locking elements.

Moisture content of timber for construction. SP 64.13330.2011 " wooden structures» allows the use of raw solid wood for the construction of houses with humidity up to 40% at following conditions: the predicted shrinkage of wood should not violate the device and the flexibility of the joints, and the timber itself should be subjected to antiseptic treatment and conditions for drying out and protection from moisture should be provided for them. It is optimal if the log house dries out, installed in place on the foundation and under the roof. Drying period from 6 months to 1 year. If the log house stood at the seller in the feet (separate parts of the log house with 5 crowns, convenient in height for processing) without a roof for 6-12 months, then with highly likely this means that the tree will be rotten. It is permissible to purchase log cabins that have stood under the roof.

It is important to understand that the higher the humidity of the timber, the greater the shrinkage of the tree, and the wider the gaps between the crowns, the gaps in the corner joints (especially with cutting defects), the more the tree will crack.

Why don't they cut down houses from dry wood? Dry wood has a greater density and hardness, and is much more difficult to process. The rounded log is subjected to chamber drying upon request after processing. However, the tree chamber drying can be bent in the process of gaining equilibrium humidity at the construction site. They use Finnish and Karelian dry pine of equilibrium moisture in construction, but this is already an exclusive product. In addition, a properly assembled frame made of raw wood, during drying in the assembled state, “sits down” in place, reducing the size of the through slots and, accordingly, the coefficient of blowing through the walls. It is important to know that it is possible to paint (do not mean antiseptic treatment) wood only if its moisture content does not exceed 15%. Otherwise, the wood will crack badly when it dries. Therefore, the processing of log cabins is permissible only with vapor-permeable antiseptics. Treating a damp (damp) log house with a vapor-tight antiseptic will also cause the wood to crack as it dries.

For pins (dowels), only dry (no more than 12%) straight-grained wood without knots should be used. Birch pins must be antiseptic.

Fastening logs to metal elements (reinforcement trimmings, long nails) is not recommended, since moisture accumulates on the media section, and the metal elements become centers of biological destruction of wood. Usually, rebar is used by unscrupulous builders to fasten and "tighten" crooked logs, which then leads to a violation of the normal shrinkage of the log house, the formation of cracks and the bulging of individual logs. It is strictly forbidden to pierce with nails corner connections logs, as this will interfere with the movement of the tree during shrinkage, and will contribute to the formation of cracks (nails after shrinkage of the tree will rise above the surfaces).

Types of timber processing for construction.
The most traditional for Russia is round timber. In Scandinavia, a gun carriage is used (from the Norwegian "lafteverk" - log cabin) - hewn from two opposite sides on two edging logs, or semi-carriage - hewn on one edging with inside logs. Price hewn log can be 35-50% higher than a round log house. When processing round timber, builders sometimes leave parts of the bast (podkore) not removed. According to the norms, no more than 20% of the bast can remain on the round timber. However, it is better to remove the bast completely by shaving (planing), as the bast contains many polysaccharides, which are an excellent breeding ground for microorganisms and insects that can damage the wood. Also, when guarding, young layers of sapwood that are less resistant to damage by fungi and insects are removed.

Waterproofing must be laid between the first flashing crown and the foundation. Until now, builders for some reason use for waterproofing short-lived material based on cardboard - roofing material, in which through holes and cracks for 7-10 years. For waterproofing, it is necessary to use modern bitumen-polymer materials with a service life of 25-50 years. Of course, the complete absence of waterproofing is also unacceptable. The use of a backing board under the flashing crown reduces heat losses by heat transfer from the frame to the foundation, reduces the risks of biological destruction of the flashing crown. According to the requirements of SP 64.13330.2011 "Wooden structures", such wooden linings (pillows) should be made of preservative wood, mainly hardwood (oak, aspen). If necessary, backing boards can be replaced with new ones. Replacing the crown crown is a much more time-consuming procedure. lower crowns houses must be protected from moisture. The greatest harm causes splashes of rain reflected from the ground and snow nailed to the wall. To protect the logs from splashes and snow, it is recommended to raise the foundation above the planning mark by at least 40-50 cm.

Additional protection factors for the log house include splash-proof visors protruding above the plinth, long roof overhangs (75-120 cm) and equipping the roofs with gutters and pipes.

Orientation of logs when laying. Every tree has a natural curvature due to wind loads during tree growth. When laying logs, they will certainly be laid with the curvature upwards so that the loads from the overlying structures compensate for the bending of the wood. If you do not follow this principle, then the logs will stick out to the sides. Normally, the deviation of the crowns of chopped walls from the horizontal per 1 m of length should not exceed 3 mm.

The size of the interventional gaps should not exceed 1 mm. With the Russian felling system, it is quite difficult to fulfill this condition, since as the tree dries out, the cracks open up. The advantage is the Norwegian felling system with a wedged longitudinal groove and a sliding self-jamming lock, in which, as the tree dries out, the logs shrink relative to each other, reducing the size of the mezhventsovye slots.

Russia traditionally continues to insulate interventional cracks in log houses natural materials, such as flax, jute, felt, moss, etc., which are not elastic, subject to biological degradation, are a breeding ground for microorganisms and insects. All of these materials require repeated caulking. Meanwhile, in Scandinavia, an elastic self-expanding polyethylene foam tape is used as an interventional sealant, the use of which eliminates the need for repeated caulking.

If possible, you should avoid connecting logs in crowns along the length. Such connections weaken the structure of the log house, and the walls of the log house can be deformed. The logs used in the construction should be as solid as possible. And it is definitely not worth making connections at the intersections of the walls, where load concentrations occur.

Shrinkage and swelling of wood along the fibers are manifested to a greater extent than across the fibers. That's why everything vertical racks and columns must be equipped with shrinkage compensator platforms, which are tightened to the required shrinkage value, which can last up to 6-8 or more years. Perhaps more aesthetic option is the installation of shrinkage compensators at the bottom of the columns, where they are not so noticeable.

It is not recommended to cut openings for windows and doors in the frame before the end of the first active period drying of wood (6-12 months). During the same period, you should not hem the floor, ceiling and sheathe the walls, as this will interfere with normal ventilation and drying of the wood.

Special attention it is worth paying attention to the ventilation of the underground space during the device wooden floors. Minimum area the cross section of one vent should be at least 0.05 m 2, and total area products should be at least 1/400 of the underground area. It should be noted that this design of floors is already archaic. In the world, floors are mainly used on the ground, which allow you to use geothermal, avoid problems with humidity in the underground space and the flow of radioactive soil gases into the house.

3. Mistakes in finishing a log house.

When installing window and doorways we should remember that the minimum distance between the openings is 90 cm. The walls must be reinforced with dowels. For installation in log houses, it is better to use windows and doors with frames at least 10 cm wide, which does not allow window and door block deform during secondary caulking at home.

The fastening of the bars for the frames of doors and windows should be sliding - without the use of nails, since the shrinkage of a wooden house can last quite a long time. Above windows and doors, compensation gaps are left under the top log for shrinkage of 5-8% of the opening height.

Finishing of interventional seams assembled log after the end of the first stage of intensive drying (12-24 months) with glazing beads or a cord, it is only decorative, contributing to the waste of money and time, but not protecting the walls from blowing. Modern elastic and vapor-permeable interventional sealants (for example, from the domestic manufacturer SAZI) make it possible to protect interventional cracks from blowing through and create an aesthetic appearance walls.

External insulation of a wooden house. Most often, external insulation has to be resorted to when construction defects are detected, such as through blowing through walls. The main and most critical mistake is the external insulation of a wooden house with vapor-tight heaters (polystyrene foam, polyethylene foam). In this case, the tree is deprived of the opportunity to dry out, it is moistened, which increases its thermal conductivity and accelerates biological destruction. In paragraph 8.8 of SP 23-101-2004 "Design of thermal protection of buildings" it is prescribed to arrange the layers of multilayer walls in such a way that the vapor permeability of materials from the inside to the outside of the heated house increases, and does not decrease.

Aesthetics of a wooden house. Often, lovers of wooden houses, where all interior elements, such as walls, floors, ceilings, beams, railings, furniture are made of wood, find that, perhaps, they overdid it with the amount wooden surfaces that create a sense of life in " wooden box". To the rescue comes the change of furniture and the painting of the walls. However, it is wiser to plan contrasting surfaces in the house at the design stage. These can be floors, ceilings, countertop surfaces in the kitchen, steel elements of stairs and railings, decorative wall from natural or artificial stone.

The main difference between a log house chopped into a hook and a log house chopped into a bowl is hewn walls inside the log house. Now also called semi-carriage frame(although this is not entirely correct, because both cutting the corner “into the paw” and “into the frying pan” also imply a gap internal walls). In Russia, since ancient times, a hewn hut testified to the prosperity of the owners. This method of cutting a corner is very time consuming and very demanding on the skills of carpenters.

The old man was prosperous and lived in hewn hut.

The price indicated in this section includes the entire scope of work, including the finishing prosthesis. The walls of the log house do not need to be sheathed during finishing works, they are equal. It is enough to sand and cover with protective agents.

We do not join logs less than 12 meters, but we do not give prices for log cabins of this size, due to the fact that a very rare client will agree to put up a log cabin 12 * 12, without an architectural understanding of the future home.

The cost of a log house chopped into a hook

The prices for fellings - operating.

In the cost of the log house we included:

1. at the AR stage
2. Scheme of felling the log house at the RF stage
3. Making a log house at the production site:
   • If the length of the log is equal to or exceeds 8 meters, then the walls must be pulled together with additional capital log walls.
4. All the necessary building materials (pil.mat, hardware, roofing material, moss, etc.), which will be required at the stage of assembling the log house.
5. Loading, unloading, delivery of the log house and the necessary building materials to the place of assembly. Shipping costs included within a radius of 70 km. from MKAD.
6. Assembling a log house on a finished foundation.
   This item is mandatory, because it is not very reasonable for both the Customer and us to entrust the assembly to a team that did not cut the log house.
   At this stage included:
   • Floor beams made of logs with a diameter of 18 to 24 cm.
   • Primary caulk (moss or tow is included in the price)
   • The cost of using a truck crane (if necessary)
   • Assembly and disassembly scaffolding, including necessary materials
   • Overlapping of a house under construction or a bath
   • Manufacturing and installation truss system
   • Equipment of gables and, if possible, preparation window openings in the gables
   • roof lathing
   • Covering the roof with a temporary roof (roofing material)

After installing the log house on the foundation, be sure to technological break, until the end of the initial shrinkage of the log house or bath (from 4 to 12 months)

Houses made of hand-cut logs are a centuries-old Russian tradition of building residential and outbuildings. New materials and construction technologies have not supplanted the original Russian skills of building houses.

The masters of our company perform work with buildings of manual felling of any complexity. We use the technology of our ancestors, where only manual labor is used.

Even logs are hewn with an ax by hand, as are the subsequent operations for installing a log house.

Dismantling an old log house from logs

Our craftsmen will help you quickly and permanently get rid of old log buildings on your site. The dismantling of the log house is done in 1-4 days (depending on the size of the building), after which we leave you logs suitable for further use, and we remove all waste and garbage from the site on our own.

Repair/reconstruction of chopped sauna

We carry out all types repair work in your chopped bath. Replacing the logs of the log house, raising the sauna, anti-corrosion treatment of wood, performing any finishing work, expanding or reconstructing the bath, installing outbuildings. All work is carried out by a team of professional craftsmen in the shortest possible time.

Repair/reconstruction of log house

We carry out all types of repairs in your chopped house. Replacing logs, raising the house, anti-corrosion treatment of wood, performing any finishing work, expanding or reconstructing the house, installing outbuildings. All work is carried out by a team of professional craftsmen in the shortest possible time.

Assembling a log house from a log of a customer

Hand felling an unhewn log

We carry out professional manual felling unrooted log of the customer. We chop by traditional technology only with the use of an ax and a planer, which guarantees the preservation of the natural bast layer that wood is so valued for. All work is done on your site.

*All types of work are performed with the customer's material