Houses made of hand-cut logs are a centuries-old Russian tradition of building residential and outbuildings. New materials and construction technologies have not supplanted the original Russian skills of building houses.
The masters of our company perform work with buildings of manual felling of any complexity. We use the technology of our ancestors, where only manual labor.
Even logs are hewn with an ax by hand, as are the subsequent operations for installing a log house.
Dismantling an old log house from logs
Our craftsmen will help you quickly and permanently get rid of old log buildings on your site. The dismantling of the log house is done in 1-4 days (depending on the size of the building), after which we leave you logs suitable for further use, and we remove all waste and garbage from the site on our own.
Repair/reconstruction of chopped sauna
We carry out all types repair work in your chopped bath. Replacing the logs of the log house, raising the sauna, anti-corrosion treatment of wood, performing any finishing works, expansion or reconstruction of a bath, installation of outbuildings. All work is carried out by a team of professional craftsmen in the shortest possible time.
Repair/reconstruction of log house
We carry out all types of repairs in your chopped house. Replacing logs, raising the house, anti-corrosion treatment of wood, performing any finishing work, expanding or reconstructing the house, installing outbuildings. All work is carried out by a team of professional craftsmen in the shortest possible time.
Assembling a log house from a log of a customer
Hand felling an unhewn log
We carry out professional manual felling unrooted log of the customer. We chop by traditional technology only with the use of an ax and a planer, which guarantees the preservation of the natural bast layer that wood is so valued for. All work is done on your site.
| Service | Cost, rub. | unit of measurement |
| Log cabin caulking, punching old tow, corners on one side | 70 | running meter |
| Grinding the log house and ends | 250 | square meter |
| Manual polishing of the log house | 150 | square meter |
| Painting the log house with a brush, priming, bleaching | 50 | square meter |
| Cord trim | 40 | running meter |
| subfloor, ceiling | 150-200 | square meter |
| plywood flooring | 200 | square meter |
| Installation of skirting boards, lighthouses, extensions | 100 | running meter |
| Frame partitions inside the house | 300 | square meter |
| Lathing clapboard walls | 300 | square meter |
| Cladding clapboard straight ceiling | 350 | square meter |
| Lathing clapboard ceiling embedded in the beams | 400 | square meter |
| Ceiling clapboard at an angle | 500 | square meter |
| Finishing with imitation timber (block house, angles at 45o) | 400 | square meter |
| Flooring with grooved board | 300 | square meter |
| Laminate flooring with underlay | 400 | square meter |
| Pouring the foundation using a mixer | 3000 | cubic meter |
| Covering the roof with corrugated board | 280 | square meter |
| Covering the roof with metal tiles | 300 | square meter |
| Trimming corners | 1000 | 3 meters |
| Insertion of floor beams | 1000 | 1 beam |
| Steam and waterproofing | 50 | square meter |
| Installation of siding with beacons | 350 | square meter |
| Installation of siding with beacons and insulation | 400 | square meter |
| Installation of insulation 50 mm in one layer | 50 | square meter |
| window installation | 1500 | 1 window |
| Cashing doors-windows | 1500 | 1 side |
| Installation interior doors, loop, lock | 3000 | 1 door |
| Metal installation front door | 3000 | 1 door |
| Overhangs from the roof | 500 | running meter |
| Drainage device | 450 | running meter |
| Sheathing gables with guides | 500 | square meter |
*All types of work are performed with the customer's material
There are many articles on the Internet about installation log house or baths from a log house, with the rules - how to fasten logs and one or another knot, with what dimensions and tolerances this should be done, and which defects are acceptable and which are not. However, almost all of them are without a regulatory framework. There are numbers like: “the gap can be no more than 5 mm”, but it is not entirely clear where these values \u200b\u200bcome from. Let's try to figure out what specific rules and regulations for log houses and log houses exist and how to correctly assess the quality of construction and materials used.
First of all, it should be noted that, unfortunately, there is simply no specific SNiP for log houses, therefore the basic norms and tolerances are taken from other general SNiPs and GOSTs, and installation should be carried out according to the rules established by many years of experience and hire qualified and experienced carpenters for this .
Primarily, when ordering a log house, a project must be developed. It is the lack of a project that is the main mistake of many customers and buyers of a log house. A construction company or a private entrepreneur is limited to one sketch by hand. As a result, this leads to the fact that the end result is much different from what he intended or expected. Therefore, it is better not to save money, because. in the future, the draft will be the main document to which you can refer if any shortcomings or defects are found. As a last resort, the construction company must have a standard project, which it is obliged to provide at the request of the customer. Naturally, the presence of such standard project you need to be interested first.
Protection of wooden structures from corrosion caused by exposure to biological agents, provides for antiseptic, conservation, coating paintwork materials or surface impregnation with compounds of complex action.
The next thing that should be given very important attention is that a freshly cut tree has shrinkage, and, given this, it is necessary to dry the logs in order to maximum humidity was not more than specified in Clause 2.2. and with a margin for draft, according to
clause 5.15. Paving stones and log walls should be collected with a margin for settlement caused by drying of the wood and shrinkage of the grouting material. The margin should be 3-5% of the design height of the walls.
If this is not observed, then the appearance of large cracks between beams, in areas of window and door blocks, in junctions structural elements. All cracks between the logs must be carefully caulked, otherwise winter period there will be drafts, and the heat in the house will not hold. Also, heat losses are often recorded in the areas of window and door blocks, which, together with the opening, are recommended to be made tongue-and-groove or to achieve close contact, also carefully caulked.
There is also such gross defect, as a “break” of a beam, usually at the junction of logs and structural elements, and is associated mainly with a very deep cut (more than half of the log) and curvature of the log (support is not over the entire surface), according to SNiP II-25-80 Wooden designs
clause 5.11. The length of the cutting plane of the frontal cuts should be taken - at least 1.5h, where h - full height section of the sheared element. The depth of the cut should be taken - no more than 1/4 h in intermediate nodes of through structures, and no more than 1/3 h - in other cases. less than 3 cm
Clause 2.2. The strength of the wood must not be lower than the standard resistances given in appendix. 2.
When installing wooden columns, there are such defects as their deviation from the centers of beams or axes and the presence of slots or bars - props, if the dimensions are not observed or installation without shrinkage margin. According to SNiP II-25-80 Wooden structures P.6.10.
6.10. Elements of wooden structures should be centered at nodes, joints and supports, except in cases where the eccentric connection of the elements reduces the bending moment acting in the design section.
5.11. When installing wooden columns, racks, etc., as well as when joining their elements, it is necessary to achieve a tight fit of the ends of the mating structure. The gap in the joints from one edge should not exceed 1 mm. Through holes are not allowed.
Maximum deviation from the center, according to SNiP 3.03.01-87
Offset of the axes of columns and supports relative to the center axes in the reference section - 5 mm
In addition to all of the above, it should be noted that the acceptance of structures should be carried out in accordance with SNiP 3.03.01-87 BEARING AND Fencing STRUCTURES, in accordance with clause 5.1.
Acceptance of wooden structures must be carried out in accordance with the requirements of Sec. 1 and 5. When accepting glued wooden structures, the requirements of GOST 20850-84 should also be taken into account. Structures that have or received defects and damage during transportation and storage, the elimination of which is not allowed under the conditions of the construction site (for example, delamination adhesive joints, through cracks, etc.), it is forbidden to mount, before the conclusion of the design organization-developer. In conclusion, a decision is made on the possibility of application, the need to strengthen damaged structures or replace them with new ones.
Although shrinkage cracks are allowed by the code, you need to make sure that water does not accumulate in them, as well as in any other cracks. And, if necessary, seal them with a special wood putty.
In custody I would like to note that if the construction team of the log house is of poor quality, then other construction and installation works (such as the quality of installation of the foundation, roof structures, drainage system, insulation and finishing works), most likely, will have defects and violations of the norms. If a construction firm(or individual) is incompetent in this type of construction, then at the first defects seen, it is better to immediately refuse its services, because in the end you will have to spend time and money on eliminating defects and defects, and moreover, most likely, architectural and aesthetic flaws will remain.
Defects shown in the photo:
Rafter legs are made of old, unrooted boards. In the area where the pipe passes, the rafter leg is cut off and tied with boards from the lining. under everyone rafter legs beam supports installed. Peeling of lining boards. Divergence of platbands. The eaves partially do not go into the gutter (there are gaps). window blocks performed at different levels.
The main mistakes in the construction of chopped wooden houses.
Chopped houses faithfully serve people for more than one millennium. Houses made of solid wood give their owners the incomparable pleasure of living in a comfortable microenvironment. Solid wood has a high heat capacity (2.4 times higher than that of ceramic brick), which makes it possible to smooth out daily temperature fluctuations. Also, the porous structure of the tree allows you to naturally regulate the humidity in the room due to the cycles of absorption and evaporation of moisture. The frame is relatively resistant to soil and foundation movements. The wooden surface often does not require any additional processing, except for grinding and coating with antiseptics to create beautiful interiors.
However, only correctly cut wooden houses will give comfort to their owners. The construction of a log house requires high carpentry skills at the level of 6th category. Without experience and qualifications, it is almost impossible to cut down wooden house no mistakes. And mistakes during construction can negate all the advantages of a log house. Houses built with mistakes are easy to recognize: builders or owners have to additionally insulate and sheathe them from the outside and inside to hide defects, eliminate through blowing of locks in the corners and interventional seams. One of modern options houses made of solid wood, practically devoid of the disadvantages of log cabins, are houses made of glued beams. Thanks to the features of this technology, blowing through the seams and cracking wood in such houses is practically impossible.
In this article, we will briefly touch on the most common mistakes in the construction of log houses.
- Log preparation errors.
Mistakes in the choice of material for construction.
According to GOST 9463-88 “Softwood round timber”, pine, spruce, fir and larch round timber is suitable for building houses. Larch is the most expensive material, the hardest and most resistant to decay. Spruce has a lower density, excessive knotting and is prone to more cracking. The optimal tree for building a house is a pine aged from 80 to 120 (140) years old, grown in the northern regions (Arkhangelsk, Angarsk, in Karelia) on dry sandy soil, at least 24 meters high. The best pine logs have a dark red or yellow-red core, indicating high density wood. More loose varieties have a pale yellow core. The forest of winter felling, contrary to folk legends, actually has a higher moisture content of sapwood (25-50% higher than in summer), large quantity starch and, therefore, more easily affected by fungi. It is possible to determine the round timber of winter felling using a qualitative test for starch: a stroke is applied to the debarked wood with an iodine pencil. If the stroke turns blue - in front of you is a tree cut down in winter.
For construction, it is allowed (this does not mean that you must agree to the purchase of such materials) timber with such defects as mushroom blue and colored sap stains (no more than 1/20 - 1/10 of the end diameter), wormholes (no more than 5-10 pieces per 1 running meter), lateral cracks from shrinkage no more than 1/20 -1/5 of the end diameter, trunk curvature no more than 1-2% (1-2 cm per 1 running meter). Logs used for construction must have a run-off value (thinning of the log to the top) of no more than 0.8 cm per 1 m of length.
Rot (sapwood, rotten, sound) and tobacco knots (decayed knots of brown or white color, crumbling under load) are not allowed in round timber.
The minimum diameter of round timber for a residential building is 22-24 cm. The width of the grooves should be at least half the diameter of the log, and in northern regions can be increased even more. With a smaller size of the grooves, the consumption of timber decreases, but the thickness of the interventional seams becomes smaller, and the house becomes more “cold”.
The cutting of corners can be carried out without residue "in the paw" or with the remainder - "in the corner". Cutting "into a corner" makes the connections more reliable, and the log house more stable. In addition, the wood allowance better protects the castle from the effects of atmospheric factors. The cutting "in the paw" is usually used for the subsequent sheathing of corners or the entire log house. For residential buildings the device for connecting logs in the corners must have internal locking elements that exclude the through blowing of the corner (connecting logs "in a bowl" with a barrier or "in a cloud" with a barrier). Due to its geometry (inverted bowl), cutting "in the cloud" allows better removal of moisture and faster drying of the joint. Cutting internal locking elements requires a highly skilled carpenter, such work takes more time and costs more. Otherwise, the corners of the residential building will be protected from blowing only with tow ( heat-insulating material). This is one of the main disadvantages of round log houses, where log joints are manufactured industrially without additional internal locking elements.
Moisture content of timber for construction. SP 64.13330.2011 " wooden structures» allows the use of raw solid wood for the construction of houses with humidity up to 40% at following conditions: the predicted shrinkage of wood should not violate the device and the flexibility of the joints, and the timber itself should be subjected to antiseptic treatment and conditions for drying out and protection from moisture should be provided for them. It is optimal if the log house dries out, installed in place on the foundation and under the roof. Drying period from 6 months to 1 year. If the log house stood at the seller in the feet (separate parts of the log house with 5 crowns, convenient in height for processing) without a roof for 6-12 months, then with highly likely this means that the tree will be rotten. It is permissible to purchase log cabins that have stood under the roof.
It is important to understand that the higher the humidity of the timber, the greater the shrinkage of the tree, and the wider the gaps between the crowns, the gaps in the corner joints (especially with cutting defects), the more the tree will crack.
Why don't they cut down houses from dry wood? Dry wood has a greater density and hardness, and is much more difficult to process. The rounded log is subjected to chamber drying upon request after processing. However, the tree chamber drying can be bent in the process of gaining equilibrium humidity at the construction site. They use Finnish and Karelian dry pine of equilibrium moisture in construction, but this is already an exclusive product. In addition, a properly assembled frame made of raw wood, during drying in the assembled state, “sits down” in place, reducing the size of the through slots and, accordingly, the coefficient of blowing through the walls. It is important to know that it is possible to paint (do not mean antiseptic treatment) wood only if its moisture content does not exceed 15%. Otherwise, the wood will crack badly when it dries. Therefore, the processing of log cabins is permissible only with vapor-permeable antiseptics. Treating a damp (damp) log house with a vapor-tight antiseptic will also cause the wood to crack as it dries.
For pins (dowels), only dry (no more than 12%) straight-grained wood without knots should be used. Birch pins must be antiseptic.
Fastening logs to metal elements (reinforcement trimmings, long nails) is not recommended, since moisture accumulates on the media section, and metal elements become centers of biological destruction of wood. Usually, rebar is used by unscrupulous builders to fasten and "tighten" crooked logs, which then leads to a violation of the normal shrinkage of the log house, the formation of cracks and the bulging of individual logs. It is strictly forbidden to pierce the corner joints of logs with nails, as this will interfere with the movement of the tree during shrinkage, and will contribute to the formation of cracks (nails after shrinkage of the tree will rise above the surfaces).
Types of timber processing for construction.
The most traditional for Russia is round timber. In Scandinavia, a carriage is used (from the Norwegian "lafteverk" - log cabin) - logs hewn from two opposite sides into two edges, or a semi-carriage - hewn to one edge with inside logs. The cost of a hewn log can be 35-50% higher than a round log. When processing round timber, builders sometimes leave parts of the bast (podkore) not removed. According to the norms, no more than 20% of the bast can remain on the round timber. However, it is better to remove the bast completely by shaving (planing), as the bast contains many polysaccharides, which are an excellent breeding ground for microorganisms and insects that can damage the wood. Also, when guarding, young layers of sapwood that are less resistant to damage by fungi and insects are removed.
Waterproofing must be laid between the first flashing crown and the foundation. Until now, builders for some reason use for waterproofing short-lived material based on cardboard - roofing material, in which through holes and cracks for 7-10 years. For waterproofing, it is necessary to use modern bitumen-polymer materials with a service life of 25-50 years. Of course, the complete absence of waterproofing is also unacceptable. The use of a backing board under the flashing crown reduces heat losses by heat transfer from the frame to the foundation, reduces the risks of biological destruction of the flashing crown. According to the requirements of SP 64.13330.2011 "Wooden structures", such wooden linings (pillows) should be made of preservative wood, mainly hardwood (oak, aspen). If necessary, backing boards can be replaced with new ones. Replacing the crown crown is a much more time-consuming procedure. lower crowns houses must be protected from moisture. The greatest harm causes splashes of rain reflected from the ground and snow nailed to the wall. To protect the logs from splashes and snow, it is recommended to raise the foundation above the planning mark by at least 40-50 cm.
Additional protection factors for the log house include splash-proof visors protruding above the plinth, long roof overhangs (75-120 cm) and equipping the roofs with gutters and pipes.
Orientation of logs when laying. Every tree has a natural curvature due to wind loads during tree growth. When laying logs, they will certainly be laid with the curvature upwards so that the loads from the overlying structures compensate for the bending of the wood. If you do not follow this principle, then the logs will stick out to the sides. Normally, the deviation of the crowns of chopped walls from the horizontal per 1 m of length should not exceed 3 mm.
The size of the interventional gaps should not exceed 1 mm. With the Russian felling system, it is quite difficult to fulfill this condition, since as the tree dries out, the cracks open up. The advantage is the Norwegian felling system with a wedged longitudinal groove and a sliding self-jamming lock, in which, as the tree dries out, the logs shrink relative to each other, reducing the size of the intervents cracks.
Russia traditionally continues to insulate interventional cracks in log houses natural materials, such as flax, jute, felt, moss, etc., which are not elastic, subject to biological degradation, are a breeding ground for microorganisms and insects. All of these materials require repeated caulking. Meanwhile, in Scandinavia, an elastic self-expanding polyethylene foam tape is used as an interventional sealant, the use of which eliminates the need for repeated caulking.
If possible, you should avoid connecting logs in crowns along the length. Such connections weaken the structure of the log house, and the walls of the log house can be deformed. The logs used in the construction should be as solid as possible. And it is definitely not worth making connections at the intersections of the walls, where load concentrations occur.
Shrinkage and swelling of wood along the fibers are manifested to a greater extent than across the fibers. That's why everything vertical racks and columns must be equipped with shrinkage compensator platforms, which are tightened to the required shrinkage value, which can last up to 6-8 or more years. Perhaps more aesthetic option is the installation of shrinkage compensators at the bottom of the columns, where they are not so noticeable.
It is not recommended to cut openings for windows and doors in the frame before the end of the first active period of wood drying (6-12 months). During the same period, you should not hem the floor, ceiling and sheathe the walls, as this will interfere with normal ventilation and drying of the wood.
Special attention it is worth paying attention to the ventilation of the underground space during the device wooden floors. Minimum area the cross section of one vent should be at least 0.05 m 2, and total area products should be at least 1/400 of the underground area. It should be noted that this design of floors is already archaic. In the world, floors are mainly used on the ground, which allow you to use geothermal, avoid problems with humidity in the underground space and the flow of radioactive soil gases into the house.
3. Mistakes in finishing a log house.
When installing window and doorways we should remember that the minimum distance between the openings is 90 cm. The walls must be reinforced with dowels. For installation in log houses, it is better to use windows and doors with frames at least 10 cm wide, which does not allow window and door block deform during secondary caulking at home.
The fastening of the bars for the frames of doors and windows must be sliding - without the use of nails, as shrinkage wooden house may last long enough. Above windows and doors, compensation gaps are left under the top log for shrinkage of 5-8% of the opening height.
It is better to use self-expanding elastic seals for sealing window and door frames. sealing tapes. Plain polyurethane foam May deform when expanded window frames, and when the tree shrinks, form cracks. If it is used, then after hardening it should be covered from the outside from exposure to the sun and moisture with a waterproofing vapor-permeable self-adhesive butyl rubber tape. From the inside, the foam must be covered vapor barrier tape. Unprotected foam quickly breaks down, as in the house in the photo below.Finishing of interventional seams assembled log after the end of the first stage of intensive drying (12-24 months) with glazing beads or a cord, it is only decorative, contributing to the waste of money and time, but not protecting the walls from blowing. Modern elastic and vapor-permeable interventional sealants (for example, from the domestic manufacturer SAZI) make it possible to protect interventional cracks from blowing through and create an aesthetic appearance of the walls.
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External insulation of a wooden house. Most often, external insulation has to be resorted to when construction defects are detected, such as through blowing through walls. The main and most critical mistake is the external insulation of a wooden house with vapor-proof insulation (polystyrene foam, polyethylene foam). In this case, the tree is deprived of the opportunity to dry out, it is moistened, which increases its thermal conductivity and accelerates biological destruction. In clause 8.8 of SP 23-101-2004 "Design of thermal protection of buildings" it is prescribed to arrange the layers of multilayer walls in such a way that the vapor permeability of materials from the inside to the outside of the heated house increases, and does not decrease.
Aesthetics of a wooden house. Often, lovers of wooden houses, where all interior elements, such as walls, floors, ceilings, beams, railings, furniture are made of wood, find that, perhaps, they went a little too far with the amount wooden surfaces that create a sense of life in " wooden box". To the rescue comes the change of furniture and the painting of the walls. However, it is wiser to plan contrasting surfaces in the house at the design stage. These can be floors, ceilings, countertop surfaces in the kitchen, steel elements of stairs and railings, decorative wall from natural or artificial stone.
Among all the variety wood materials exactly hewn logs often become the foundations of modern private homes. Why? The answer lies in the features and properties of the material itself, which are achieved during processing.
Unlike round logs, hewn logs do not have an absolutely identical shape, which has a positive effect on appearance buildings, bringing it closer to a traditional Russian hut.
However, this is not the only difference. Hewn log retains its natural protective layer(resin layer), which increases the resistance of the material to the impact environment. Additional processing and antiseptic impregnation increase the durability of wood by a few more points.
Technology developed over the centuries
In the process of implementing a project, Marisrub specialists use the very construction technology that has proven its effectiveness and has stood the test of time.
Of course, we use much more modern devices and tools to speed up the construction process and bring the quality of the result to the maximum possible. However, the basis is still the same technology that our great-grandfathers used.
To build a house from hewn logs, special types of wood are used:
- pine;
- deciduous;
- cedar.
- the correct geometry of the trunks, which are easy to work with. The minimum number of knots and distortions allows you to save a maximum useful properties wood;
- a feature of pine resins is a healing effect. It has been known since ancient times and has a positive effect on the health of people suffering from cardiovascular diseases;
- high strength, durability and excellent thermal insulation performance.
"MariSrub": we will build a house that the neighbors will envy
Becoming our client means getting all the benefits of cooperation that every customer is looking for:
- reliability and stability in meeting deadlines;
- competent architectural and planning solutions;
- a full range of construction services (from design to turnkey implementation);
- Availability finished projects and architects ready to implement individual orders.
We work on a staged payment system, which is also strong point companies. Marisrub clients do not need to spend the entire construction budget on the day the contract is concluded. Instead, there is a stage system that allows you to split the payment into parts and pay them after the acceptance of the work of each construction phase.
The result of the work of the company's specialists is always houses that can last for many decades, admire their external beauty and make the neighbors sigh enviously.
Let's Paint the House
Houses from hand-hewn logs
Everyone knows that the walls classic house from wood are built from round log. And the thickness of such a wall is usually 35 cm or more. And raw wood for building a house is processed in a special way. The result is hewn logs. Processing is done manually, the bark is removed, all unnecessary is planed. Then the wood is dried and impregnated.
It should be noted right away that manual tes is a rather laborious process and is not so cheap. Used for planing planers or an axe. For trimming by hand, usually selected conifers. Their age is at least 50 years. In this case, trees of the same age are selected. Must be the correct size. On the north side, the tree rings are denser. And with this side, hewn logs are laid out.
The master alternately selects logs for the construction of the future house. First, the thickened ends of the log are stacked on the thinner ones, and then vice versa. When a log is hewn with an ax, the porosity of the wood is greatly reduced. In fact, the wood is compacted from all sides. I must say that logs are most often used, the diameter of which is 24 cm, as well as 32 cm.
trimming manually has many advantages, among them:
But this processing method has its drawbacks. It takes a lot of time to trim. Drying natural method may take one and a half to two years. And I must say that hewn logs appearance inferior to rounded ones.
When a house is assembled from hewn timber, gaps appear between the logs, in which moss or tow is laid. During the year, the log house will shrink. Then it is necessary once again to caulk all the seams with combed tow. But, I must say that it is pleasant to live in such a house. It will delight you with its unique aroma and warmth.
Hewn logs were used by our ancestors to build houses. This labor-intensive technology is used exclusively by manual labor. And this technology has been alive for many centuries. I must say that not all logs are suitable for construction. Wood is selected, which has the minimum number of defects. They try to cut the forest in winter time of the year. The fact is that the winter forest has a lot of resins, it is drier, more durable, withstands shrinkage better, it has fewer pests.
After the logs have been selected and cut down, all branches are removed from them with an ax. The tree is stripped of bark. But after that, the trunk has a brownish tint. If you need to get a light shade, then you need to remove a few millimeters with a scraper or an ax. The job requires real skill.
After the logs are prepared, crowns are formed from them. Grooves and locks are cut for each log to ensure reliable connection with other logs. Between the crowns, dowels made of wood are laid bare. They fix the wall element, preventing the elements from moving. It must be said that log house, if it is erected by a real master of his craft, it looks great. The atmosphere in this house is unique. The house turns out to be environmentally friendly, the material is inexpensive. And if you decide to opt for such a house, you make the right choice.
The technology of building houses from hand-hewn logs implies a quality connection building materials in the corners. Professional builders of wooden houses distinguish between two main execution technologies corner connections: “in a cup” and “in a paw”. The first technology provides for a rather large consumption of wood and, therefore, takes more time than laying logs “in the paw”. If you want to save time and materials for arranging the corner joints of a wooden house, use the “paw” technology. But this arrangement implies a large number of sealed connections.
Laying the corner joints of a wooden house “in a cup” involves laying building materials on two walls located on opposite sides. Further, another log is laid perpendicularly on the logs, with the help of which the marking for the connection is carried out.
Laying the corner joints of a wooden house “in the paw” involves quite complex manipulations that are difficult to perform without the appropriate dexterity tools. The back side of the log should be hewn in square shape. Vertical sections should be divided into 8 equal particles. Thus, external and internal corners wooden houses will differ from each other, forming a special “foot”.
After the walls of the wooden house are erected, you can proceed to their caulking. It must be carried out from the bottom of the wall, gradually moving up.
