Our country is rich in forests, so the tree for the construction of residential buildings has been used by our ancestors since ancient times. Log cabins were assembled from logs, beams, gun carriages. Methods for connecting elements in corners have been improved over the centuries. One of the popular ways is cutting into a paw, in which the ends of the elements do not protrude beyond the corners of the log cabins. When using profiled beams for log cabins, only this method is used.
Advantages of the method
- clean, without protruding ends of the crowns, the corners give the constructs an aesthetic, attractive appearance, allowing convenient finishing of facades with a variety of materials, for example, siding;
- the use of the entire length of a beam or log leads to material savings and cheaper construction.
Existing cons
- low structural stability;
- the appearance of cracks and drying out in the corner joints, which leads to exposure to blowing. There is a need for periodic sealing of corners;
- the technology of felling a log house into a paw requires qualified execution and careful marking; without experience in carrying out such work, it is almost impossible to ensure proper quality.
Varieties of making joints in the paw
- Direct connection. It can be unilateral and bilateral. In the first case, grooves are sawn or cut out at the ends of the bars for the length of the section of the element and a depth equal to half its thickness. In the second version, the grooves are selected from the top and bottom of the element to a quarter of its thickness. The fastening of the crowns in the corners is carried out with wooden dowels made of hard wood. Fastening takes place in holes drilled in a checkerboard pattern. The spikes should fit snugly into the hole, for which their diameter is chosen slightly larger than the holes themselves.
- Dovetail. Paws in such joints are performed with a slight slope. The middle part of each is fixed between the upper and lower paws in the form of a wedge. The connection is stronger and more reliable, but the most difficult to perform. The sloping surface shapes provide additional stability to the structure, but the sloping surface makes it easier for moisture to enter the corner during rain. To eliminate negative consequences, high-quality additional waterproofing is required.
- Connection with additional spike, called the prisec. Cutting corners into a paw with such connections is more reliable than described above, but more difficult to perform. At the inner corners of the log house, a spike is left on the upper part in the form of a protrusion of about 2 cm and an area of up to a quarter of the cutting area. A groove is hollowed out in the lower element under this protrusion. The entry of the slit into the groove must be tight without the slightest possibility of displacement of the joint. Assembling a log house resembles a children's designer. With high-quality performance, a tight fit of the crowns without displacement is ensured.
Regardless of the method of execution, when cutting a log house into a paw with your own hands, without sufficient experience in carrying out such work, it is recommended that you follow the golden rule: initially, cut down a little less than the required size. If the cutting exceeds the required dimensions, it will be impossible to correct such an omission, and it is not difficult to fit the connection tightly by removing the excess after fitting.
Material selection
For any log cabins, it is recommended to use coniferous wood of natural moisture, cut down in winter, preferably from the northern regions. Pine is the cheapest, larch and cedar are more expensive, but stronger and more durable. The trunks must be even along the entire length and the same size.
Removal of the bark from all sides of the logs is carried out using a special tool called a scraper. You can also remove the bark with an ordinary shovel with a cut-off nose and a sharpened lower edge. It is unacceptable to remove the bark mechanized, with the help of power tools, nozzles for chainsaws or a grinder, since the upper layers of the main wood will be broken along with the bark. After that, the blanks are stacked with spacers for ventilation and covered with roofing material. Drying lasts ≥ 6 months.
The beam must be dry, not have visible cracks, mechanical damage, falling knots, rot and damage by mold or fungus.
Marking when cutting a log house into a paw
It is possible to qualitatively cut log cabins only with the correct marking of the ends of the beams or logs. It is recommended to choose a timber of the same section; with an increase in thickness, the house will be warmer, since this reduces the number of corner joints. When using logs, the element with the smallest thickness at the end is taken as a sample and the rest is adjusted according to it. In order not to work with each end individually, it is recommended to make a template for cutting into a paw from thick cardboard or plywood, which will allow marking by applying a template to each end.
Markup includes the following operations:
- careful trimming of elements;
- drawing a horizontal line along the center of the log from each end, control with a laser level, with a mark of its middle;
- having applied the template, two vertical lines are drawn, spaced by the width of the template from the center, control is carried out by the vertical building level;
- a strong thread is pulled along the outlined lines of the cheeks of the paws, along which the longitudinal parts of the cheeks are drawn with a length equal to the diameter of the log;
- according to the markup, the cheeks are cut out with a check for the correctness of the template, which should fit tightly, but without much effort.
After cutting all the logs into a paw and carefully fitting them, a control assembly is carried out on a flat area away from the foundation, with the assembled aging for several months. For tight fitting of logs, a longitudinal groove is developed at the bottom of the upper rims, into which a jute tape or tow is laid during assembly. With the help of an electric planer, the surface of the logs inside the log house is processed with their trimming, felling of knot protrusions and sharp bends. Each element is subject to marking, according to which it will be possible to carry out the final assembly.
After that, knot protrusions are processed with an electric planer. If there are sharp bends, protrusions on the log, then they are aligned.
Ready-made kits from timber with cut-out paws and marking the assembly order can be purchased at specialized bases.
Construction of a log house
Scope of work:
- Foundation construction. The log house is lightweight, so there is no need for massive foundation structures. Most often, columnar or low-depth tapes are used. Waterproofing of surfaces in contact with the ground, if necessary, insulation device. Backfilling with drainage soils.
- The supporting lower crown is laid on a horizontal waterproofing of two layers of waterproofing. The first two elements are laid strictly parallel, the next 2 logs are laid perpendicularly on top of them. The resulting rectangle is carefully aligned using a laser level.
- Installation of the following links with a tight fit of the connection of the paws. When assembling, tow is used.
- After the assembly is completed, the longitudinal and corner seams are sealed. The wood is treated with flame retardant and antiseptic preparations.
- At the end, the corners are insulated from the inside with modern heat insulators.
After the assembly is completed, the log house is kept covered from atmospheric precipitation for a year, after which the cracks are re-caulked and further roofing and finishing works are performed.
If you look at the skeleton of the log house in the paw, we will see that the perimeter of this log house is a normal rectangle without logs protruding beyond the outer planes of the log walls. A log house in a paw can be called the antipode of a log house in a bowl (with a remainder). But this type of log house is the antipode not only in design, but in the characteristics of the log house.
The log house is in the paw, whiter cold than the log house with the rest. The edges of the logs are cut, the corner near the house is straight and accessible to winds and precipitation.
In order to improve the thermal characteristic of the "log in the paw", the corners of the log house from the outside must be sheathed with clapboard. In addition, the cold corners of the log house place increased demands on the fit of the logs of adjacent crowns of the log house, especially in the places of interlocks.
Log cabin in the paw - log locks
The locks of log cabins in the paw have a characteristic trapezoidal cut. The planes of the trapezoids are directed inside the log house, due to which the locks are held together by the weight of the logs. For additional fastening of the logs, a lock is made with the so-called undercut, in fact it is a fastening spike, shifted to the edge of the lock.
In addition to the fastening lock, a standard thermal lock is made on the log, a hollow along the entire length of the log.
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Assembling a log house in a paw
The assembly of the frame is standard. The thickest logs go to the lower crown of the frame. It is laid on the foundation of the log house, making a lining of roofing material and an unloading board 50 mm thick.
In the logs of the second crown, a thermal lock is made, which is also a sealing longitudinal groove. After adjusting the groove, a heater is laid on the lower crown and the upper log is laid (rolled) on it.
Finishing the log house in the paw
Many people think felling in the paw more accurate and are advised to sheathe it with clapboard or siding. “There are no comrades for the taste and color,” but I don’t see the point in building a log house to cover it with siding. Although you can buy cheaper logs for cladding, cutting without residue will allow you to use the entire length of the logs for the usable area of \u200b\u200bthe house. More often, the log cabin is not sheathed in its entirety, but the corners of the house are closed up.
After shrinkage of the log house (in a year), the log house is caulked and the outer skin of the log house is carried out.
Log houses have been used for hundreds of years; for Russia, this is a truly traditional technology that has been worked out for centuries. There are several options for joining logs in a log house: the most common are the frame "in the bowl" and the frame in the "paw" (such a connection is often called the "dovetail"). Why is it convenient, and how to do it?The advantages of building a log house "in the paw"
The log house "in the paw" is more difficult to perform than the traditional version "in the bowl": there is a much greater risk of "filling up the corners" by warping the walls of the house. The end of each log has to be processed with geometric accuracy, otherwise drafts will constantly walk in the house, which no insulation can cope with. However, even with such difficulties, the “paw” log cabin technology does not lose its fans. The “paw” log cabin is used as often as for a country house, since this design has several important advantages. Despite the fact that this is not the most energy efficient option, it has its clear advantages:- This is an economical solution that allows you to use the entire length of the logs. There are no protruding ends, which means that all material will be used with maximum efficiency.
Significant savings have made this method popular; ordering production from professionals is not so expensive. In addition, you can try to cope with the construction of your own hands.
- There are no problems with the exterior finish. It can be vinyl siding or other modern materials that will be easy to join due to the correct even angles. Finishing the corners of the log house "in the paw" does not require overspending of material, which will be an additional economic benefit.
- Aesthetic appearance and neat contours of the house. The building looks great, in keeping with all the traditions of wooden construction, while the design can be varied due to modern finishes.
Log building technology
An accurate calculation will be required to determine the size of the "paw", that is, the junction. At the same time, it is important to take into account that the lower part of the tree is always thicker than the upper one and there cannot be a tree that is strictly ideal in size. To prevent the “paws” from spreading out of the assembly field, a spike is made in the upper part of each connecting element, and a groove is made in the lower part to provide additional fastening. An edging is cut out from the inside, which will stretch along the entire length. This will provide the house with smooth walls, convenient for finishing. The length of the edging on the outside is 1.5-2 diameters.For complex marking of logs, you can use paper templates that are glued to the end of the log. If there is no experience, the work of preparing joints will be very time consuming even with the use of all modern tools.A log cabin from a bar "in the paw", as well as from a log, is assembled according to a completely understandable technology. If the markings and fasteners have been done correctly, it is usually not difficult to build a house in the most limited time. The technology looks like this:
- A layer of roofing material is laid on the foundation as a waterproofing, and then the first crown is assembled from the thickest logs on it, which is called the salary. The second crown of the log house is called the main one; logs are cut into it for the subsequent laying of the floor.
- In the logs of each next crown, a semicircular groove is made, which should stretch along the entire length. It is needed for a tighter fit of the logs in order to provide protection from heat loss.
After making the groove, it is necessary to check how tightly the upper log will fit to the lower one. If necessary, it must be trimmed.
- The junction of the crowns must be laid with insulation: usually, roll materials of natural origin are used for this: jute, tow, etc., which has a beneficial effect on the environmental friendliness of the house.
- When laying the crowns, it is imperative to check the verticality of the walls, making adjustments in time. When the frame is assembled, it is left for a while to dry and shrink. After that, it is necessary to additionally caulk the cracks.
With proper marking and laying, the corners of the log house “in the paw” should turn out to be as even as possible. Modern tools greatly simplify and speed up the work: with the help of a chainsaw, with a certain skill, you can achieve geometrically correct angles and precise fit of the edges of the “paws” in the joint. However, to work with any tools, experience and strict adherence to safety precautions are required.
Additional features of the log house "in the paw"
Since the log is wider in the lower part than at the top, when laying it is necessary to alternate the tops and butts, then the wall will turn out to be even. After the construction of the log house, the wood must be treated with special compounds that will protect it from decay and insects. Additional treatment with flame retardants is desirable, which increases fire safety. Over time, cracks may appear at the junctions of the logs due to the drying of the wood. They must be closed in a timely manner by placing linings or insulation materials.Log house "in the paw" - a time-consuming, but beautiful solution that allows you to simplify the external and internal decoration. Such a house will look beautiful, last a long time, and with the right construction and insulation technology, there will be no problems with heat loss. The classic log construction technology will provide the house with comfort and reliability.
Wood, being an environmentally friendly material, not only effectively retains heat, but also gives the air in the room a special aroma.
To build a wooden one, you must first prepare a beam.
Stage 1. Preparation of round timber
Attention! To determine the quality of logs (you can at any time refuse low-grade sawlogs), you need to know about the ideal harvesting conditions, which we will discuss below.
Round timber must be harvested at sub-zero temperatures, that is, in winter. It is at this time that the amount of moisture in the wood is minimized, therefore, during drying, the material will deform and crack less.
In order to ensure the durability of the log house, certain sections of logs are used during construction (the so-called butt logs). These sections start from the rhizome and end at the crown. Such butt logs are denser (which compares favorably with the tops) and there are practically no knots in them. Also, the selection criteria include the round shape and the degree of curvature of the trunk. In both cases, a marriage is an error exceeding 1 cm per linear meter.
Attention! If the length, for example, is 5 m, and the error exceeds 5 cm, then the log can be safely rejected.
The same applies to the diameter. For example, the diameter of the base of a log is 35 cm, while the tops are 25 cm or less. Such round timber is categorically not recommended for use in construction.
Finally, pay attention to the type of wood. Ideally, coniferous trees (spruce, larch, etc.) should be used for the bath. Larch is characterized by resistance to moisture, although in extreme cases, you can resort to a combination of "pine-spruce", in which the first few crowns are erected from pine. And if only spruce is used in construction, then the material must be treated several times with an antiseptic.
Perform further actions in accordance with the previously drawn up project. This can be done by yourself, found on the Internet or ordered from specialists. It is with the help of this document that you can calculate the required amount of consumables, determine the area and shape of the base.
Stage 2. Processing of timber
Step 1. After the consumables were brought to you (or you cut them down and delivered them yourself), it needs 25-30 days to rest.
Step 3. Then start processing. First, remove the bark from the logs (do this carefully so that they do not crack), leaving it a little on the sides - about a 15-centimeter strip on each side.
Step 4. After processing, store the logs about 25 cm from the ground. You can stack it as you like - in stacks, bundles, etc., the main thing is that the distance between the logs is 7-10 cm.
Video - Preparation of logs
Stage 3. Construction of the foundation
We will immediately make a reservation that massive monolithic ones can be abandoned due to the insignificant weight of the future structure. In order to save money, you can resort to one of two possible lightweight designs, namely:
- strip foundation;
- columnar.
Let's consider each of the options.
To build such a foundation around the entire perimeter, as well as under future walls, dig a trench 40 cm wide and 50 cm deep, lay a “pillow” of sand and gravel on the bottom. Next, lay the reinforcement, build a formwork 50 cm high and pour the concrete solution. As a result, the height will be approximately 1 m.
Attention! A more specific height depends on the depth of soil freezing in a particular region.
Video - Foundation pouring
Inside the perimeter, pour strips of sand and gravel. In the future, the strips can be filled with concrete or a wooden floor can be built on them. The choice of one or another option depends on personal preferences and financial capabilities.
Column type foundation
If necessary, erect supports. There are two options here:
- brick;
- from asbestos pipes.
Place the supports at the corners of the perimeter, as well as under all walls in 1.5 m increments. Under each support, pre-lay a concrete "cushion". In each support, fix several reinforcement bars so that the latter protrude at least 30 cm above the surface.
Build a formwork 40 cm high, lay the reinforcement in it and tie it with the rods protruding from the supports. Fill with concrete. After four to five weeks, when the concrete is completely dry, you can proceed to further work.
Stage 4. Base waterproofing
Treat the surface of the foundation with melted and lay a layer of roofing material on top. After the bitumen has completely dried, repeat the procedure. As a result, you will have a reliable two-layer.
Stage 5. Preparation of tools
To work, you will need the following equipment:
We will pay special attention to the last tool - the "line". For the manufacture will require steel wire with sharply sharpened ends. Bend the wire in half so that it takes the form of a compass, you can additionally secure the handle. This tool will be required when marking logs.
Stage 6. Construction of a log cabin
There are several assembly technologies:
The first option - Russian felling - is the easiest to perform, even an inexperienced carpenter can handle it. Therefore, we will consider this technology.
Step 1. The construction of the log house should be carried out in stages and begin with the crown crown (in other words, from the first). Logs, which will serve as a crown crown, cut off on the edge for the most snug fit to the foundation.
Step 2 Lay the first pair of logs on top of the waterproofing layer. Lay the next pair at an angle of 90ᵒ relative to the first and connect everything into a “cup”.
Attention! "Cup" is the simplest connection option in the construction of log buildings. It is carried out quite simply: at the bottom of the log, the boundaries of the future “cup” are measured, then with the help of the “line” a recess is marked. After re-checking the dimensions, the recess is carefully cut down with an ax.
You can use a chainsaw - it will save a lot of time. Although the final finishing of the “cups” will still have to be done with an ax.
Attention! In the starting crown, the "cups" will not be deep, as a result of which the logs will not come into contact with the base. Therefore, in the gap that appears, lay a lining - a small piece of board of the required thickness, treated with an antiseptic and covered with insulation.
Step 3. Next, lay the second crown, using the thickest possible logs. This is due to the fact that in the future you will cut sexual lags into them. For the purpose of a snug fit, make a longitudinal groove in the upper log, which would be equal to a third of the diameter of the previous log. To draw the boundaries of the groove, lay the upper log on the lower one and mark it with a “line”.
Attention! The longitudinal groove can be semicircular and triangular. If you have a chainsaw available, then you can handle the triangular groove in two to three minutes. But remember: logs with a similar groove will not connect tightly, which will negatively affect the thermal insulation properties of the walls.
Obviously, the best option is a semicircular groove. Do it with a chainsaw, use a chisel to remove residues.
Step 4. Insulate the log joints, preferably with linen jute. Lay one piece of canvas on the lower crown, seal the longitudinal groove with the second (especially if the latter has a triangular shape).
Step 5. Connect the crowns to each other. Here you can use:
- square dowels;
- round dowels made of wood.
The second method is preferable, because the dowels can be purchased ready-made and make holes with an electric drill.
Make holes in increments of 1-1.5 m, simultaneously flashing a pair of upper crowns completely and not completely - the third (from below). To avoid distortion, at the end of shrinkage, sink the dowels into the upper crown by at least 6-7 cm.
Step 6. After raising the walls to the desired height, lay the ceiling beams and rafters on top of them. If wet wood was used, then lay sheets of slate instead of rafters and wait for the structure to shrink. Usually, it is enough to spend the winter once, but ideally, shrinkage should last a year and a half.
In the spring, when the shrinkage is completed, proceed to the caulking.
Video - Aspen shingle roof
Stage 7. Door, window openings
We specifically started talking about openings after construction was completed, since there are two options for their arrangement.
Stage 8. Caulking logs
At the end of the shrinkage, the caulking of the log house is performed. To do this, prepare the following equipment:
- a hammer;
- caulking (wood or metal).
Attention! If you compacted the interventional space with tow or moss, then you can skip this step, since you most likely will not need a caulk. But if you find even the slightest cracks, then the procedure is still better to perform.
Start work only after the insulation has completely dried. First, twist the material (tow or moss) into a bundle, then hammer between the crowns with a hammer and caulk.
You can use ribbon jute - in this case, the material is simply fixed with nails or a mounting stapler.
Video - Log Caulking
Stage 9. Roof
As soon as the tree shrinks, you can start building. If you do this earlier, then the roof will simply lead.
Step 1 Lay wooden beams on the wall trim (we have already talked about this).
Step 2. Fix the beams and attach the rafter legs to them in 1 m increments. In the ridge part, cut the rafters at an appropriate angle for connection.
Step 3. Nail a solid boardwalk to the rafters (if you plan to use rolled roofing material) or make a crate (if you use slate, tiles, etc.).
Step 4. Install the roofing according to the instructions for the specific material.
Step 5. Cover the ridge with galvanized sheet steel to protect it from aggressive environmental influences.
Step 6 Sew up the gables of the roof with siding or clapboard.
An example of a log house with a shingle roof 
- Sometimes, during assembly, it becomes necessary to join the logs. In this case, do not allow the joints to be located on top of each other. Moreover, in the lower crown, docking is unacceptable.
- When laying a log house on a finished foundation, you can collect logs even before drying, laying a sealant between them.
- It is advisable to equip windows after shrinkage, because otherwise they may warp.
Now you know how to builddo-it-yourself log cabin.
When choosing between two classic types of cutting the corners of wooden log cabins “in the paw” and “in the bowl”, you should pay attention to their properties. The craftsmen of our company are fluent in both techniques, but the customer still needs to figure out which type of felling the corners of log cabins meets his requirements. In this article, a comparative analysis of the two classic types of connection - “in the bowl” and “in the paw” will be carried out so that you can decide which one to choose.
Cutting "in the paw" during the construction of a log house
The first thing that can attract a customer in choosing a felling “in the paw” is the economic component. When cutting corners "in the paw" there is a real opportunity for savings. This type of felling of log corners does not imply overspending of material. And the walls of the log house correspond to the length of the log. As a result, the total cost of a log or timber house, or a bath, is reduced by up to ten percent.
However, cutting "in the paw" has a number of disadvantages.
One of the main disadvantages of cutting "in the paw" is a significant heat consumption. Due to the fact that the spread of cold along the wood fibers is much faster than across, and the end of the log or timber with such a connection is at a fairly close distance from the interior, it is easier for heat to seep out. The heat exchange between the cold air outside and the warm air inside in a wooden house cut down “in a paw” is much more intense than when cutting “into a bowl”.
Actually, such cutting requires more qualification from the master and is in itself more laborious. The fact is that the inadequate quality of work can lead to the fact that over time the logs will “float”. And this will inevitably lead to the distortion of the entire building. At the same time, the size of the log house does not play a role, whether it is a large house, a bathhouse or a summer veranda.
The building, chopped "in the paw" is short-lived, the reason for this is the violation of the structure of the tree with this type of felling of the log house. This inevitably leads to a decrease in the stability of the house or bath to the natural influences of external factors and weather conditions. So, for example, water that has fallen into a log house with a similar type of connection can seriously damage the building when it freezes. But to make work on the exterior of such a log house is much easier. If the owner of the house is generally interested in cashing out the building, it is much more convenient to do it on a house cut down “in a paw” than on a house cut down “in a bowl”.
Cutting "into a bowl" during the construction of a log house
It is more expensive to chop a wooden house or a bath “into a bowl” than “into a paw”. However, the difference in price is not so great. It is about 5 - 10 percent. However, for this money you buy not only a more classic look of a log cabin or a log house, but also a number of nice bonuses, which will be discussed below.
Firstly, heat loss in a wooden house or bathhouse, cut down “into a bowl”, is much less. The size of the building in this case does not play a role. Starting from small log cabins, and ending with the most common log cabins among customers - all of them have less heat transfer if they are cut not in a "paw", but in a "bowl".
The stability of the house, the frame of which is made in the "bowl", has become a parable among the masters of felling. And this has been repeatedly confirmed in practice. In addition, the log house “in the bowl” looks more authentic and classic compared to the log house “in the paw”. It is immediately clear that this is a real traditional log house.
When felling a log house “into a bowl”, the wood structure of the log is subjected to minimal disturbances. This most directly affects the durability of the log house. Its resistance to the natural effects of external factors and weather conditions increases many times over.
We hope that this material will help you make the right choice. Now you are able to independently figure out which type of log house - "in the bowl" or "in the paw" - is preferable. It remains only to place an order in our company. We'll take care of the rest!
