Partition between the steam room and the rest room — special place which contains the strongest elements of the bath: steam, fire, temperature and cold in winter. How to make friends these opposite actions? Find golden mean you can know all the features of the device of partitions for cutting furnace furnaces. They will be discussed in this review.
We make a partition between the steam room and the rest room
The whole article makes sense only when using factory steel furnaces in log cabins. There is no need to talk about baths with brick walls or steam rooms with massive brick ovens. Everything is simple here: take more, drown longer and wait until it heats up slowly. But in the case of high-speed sauna stoves or stoves for a Russian bath with steam generators - partition between the steam room and the room acquires special properties. Many stove manufacturers declare 30-40 minutes before they are ready for bathing procedures. Yes, all this is possible in a perfectly insulated steam room. In this case, we need a thin wall, a minimum of convection, a reflective screen and a non-combustible layer with low thermal conductivity.
One of the ideal options is a partition in the steam room from such a sandwich:
from the steam room to the adjacent room - a sheet of polished stainless steel, a sheet of asbestos cardboard 1-2 cm basalt wool, asbestos sheet (analogue), decor.
Immediately stones will fly at me because of the attempt to use asbestos-cement sheets. The main thing is peace! Production is considered harmful, not use! The sheet closed from all sides does not evaporate, is not ventilated, does not smell. It is necessary to cut carefully, observing TB.
This digression is for those who like to make it easier and cheaper. Of course, you can use expanded vermiculite and look for airgel and other “nanotechnology products”.
Hard and rigid asbestos-cement sheet can be pasted over with porcelain stoneware or tiles.
For builders with financial capabilities and unwillingness to experiment, there are partitions for wooden baths
made in the factory. They are also called heat shields. Everything was thought out and decided for us, and even done beautifully. Thoughtfully made thermal insulation and cutting from the side of the steam room and a self-cooling surface with modern design from the side of the room with the firebox, unpacked and installed - quickly, cleanly and correctly.
Brick wall in the sauna
Here it is! - think about brick partition between the steam room and the rest room. Reliably, like a mausoleum, it does not burn, does not rot, does not smell, bugs do not sharpen it. The forums are filled with comments on how to make this partition out of fireclay bricks how to decorate it with tiles, etc. All this talk about thermal insulation needs to be clarified and sorted out:
The recipe for preparing a mortar for laying a brick partition between the steam room and the room recreation: Clay-sand - proportion 1 to 1 (fine sand). Some people use this mixture for laying stoves. Clay is soaked for 2-3 days with water, stirred with a mixer to a state of sour cream, sand and a little cement are added (up to 5% of the volume of the entire mixture).
The use of cotton wool in the partitions of the steam room
When used as a partition between a steam room and a sandwich with basalt wool inside, it is necessary first of all to make sure that the cotton wool has the opportunity to dry after the completion of the bath procedure for the following reasons:
- any insulation will get wet, because. in unheated room the air always has a humidity equal to the humidity in the street;
- basalt wool is a hygroscopic material (moisture absorber)
- there will always be condensation in the cotton
- drying of basalt wool in a closed space is much slower than its dampening
- consequences - bad smell, reduction thermal insulation properties, swelling of cotton wool.
Mineral wool for the partition from the side of the steam room - not the best the best option. It is preferable to use stone wool(basalt). Mineral light-fluffy fillers tend to emit odors at high temperatures. And believe me, these smells are not the healthiest. The heat shield or baffle must not emit odors until high temperature. The surface of a steel ventilated stove (most produced) reaches up to 400 degrees on the casing!
Whatever you are going to make a partition in the steam room of the bath, one thing is mandatory - good ventilation insides of the sandwich and compliance with fire regulations and breaks. And this is how it was done.
A standard log house of a bath (five-walled) consists of two rooms: a steam room and a washing room. It has 4 load-bearing walls and one partition. There are more voluminous buildings, it all depends on the financial capabilities and requirements of the owner. But in any case, initially installed frame baths can be partitioned off at your discretion, increasing or decreasing the area.
The only question is what material and how to make partitions?
This is what the frame looks like wooden partition between washroom and steam room.
Partition in a brick bath
The easiest option is to install a frame partition inside brick bath. Let's consider a distinction washing department and steam room. First, a frame made of dried and treated wood is assembled in place. A heat-insulating layer of foam plastic or mineral wool. It is better to additionally protect it from moisture with a plastic film or a foil membrane used specifically for this purpose.
After the partition is finished according to the inner wall cladding. From the side of the steam room, this is a lining corresponding to overall design, and the washing compartment is also finished accordingly. If the wall is to be plastered, a layer is first filled unedged board, then a reinforcing mesh is fixed along it, after which the corresponding work is carried out.
The lining for finishing the steam room must comply with the overall design. Material dried and better from one batch. Mount it on kleimers or small nails in hidden places. In the washing department, the plaster is applied in several layers, after the latter has dried, it will be possible to lay tiles.
This is a variant of the partition, if the redevelopment was outlined after the construction of the bath. You can do it in another way, and even at the time of designing the bath, distinguish interior spaces, having thought over the layouts of all rooms. According to the type of foundation chosen, in addition to pouring it under the load-bearing walls, it is also laid in the places where the partitions pass. After the construction of the bath, they can be made of bricks without bothering to assemble the frame and insulate it. But this option is more expensive, so for small baths from brick, you can make prefabricated partitions.
Brick partition separating the stove from the dressing room.
Advantages of internal frame walls
This option of partitions has its supporters and haters. Someone says that it is like clothes for cabbage. On the one hand, it is. But on the other hand, relatively quickly and inexpensively, you get a warm and reliable partition. After all, pouring the foundation is more expensive. And what to do if you suddenly decide to re-plan the location of the internal walls? Break the foundation?
It's the only one possible variant for a partition of technical rooms in a bath, such as a toilet or a rest room. Frame structures you can separate the dressing room from the rest room or make separate room for installation mounting block, from which the electrical wiring will lead to the bath. We can safely note the relevance and demand for frame partitions, in any type of baths.
Waterproofing of frame partitions with membrane film. It is laid on both sides.
Partition of timber or logs
In this way, bath spaces are delimited only in structures made of the appropriate material, and their location is worked out even at the stage of building a bath. They lay it together with the crowns of the bearing walls, making a dressing. Under the internal partitions of a bath from a bar, a foundation is definitely needed. They don't last long on weight.
The use of partitions of this type is in demand in several cases: firstly, in big bath it is necessary, not only for dividing the room, but also as an additional support for floors. It's kind of another bearing wall. Secondly, the method of assembling a “five-wall” log house will allow you to connect the structure with an internal partition. And thirdly, to create general interior. Agree in a bath from a bar, will a brick wall look ridiculous?
Brick partition separating the oven from the washing compartment with installed tank for hot water.
When is the best time to use a brick?
Brick partitions are applicable in any baths lined with similar material. The width is chosen at the discretion, but given that this is a non-residential premises and sound insulation is not particularly needed, masonry in one stone is enough. More attention is paid to quality masonry mixture. It must correspond to indicators resistant to moisture. Partition wall connection bearing wall produced by reinforcement. Every 4–5 rows, reinforcement is driven in and then masonry is carried out in accordance with all the rules.
Often brick partitions are also used in wooden baths. This is acceptable when the stove is heated from the waiting room, and it is necessary to overlay it with stone in order to create maximum conditions. fire safety without compromising the temperature. In order not to interfere with the overall decor, the partition is placed from decorative stone, and in some cases it is combined with a heater stove. Thus, the wall will also heat the dressing room.
Very often they also practice a partial partition of the furnace with a brick. By the way, work on the installation of partitions is carried out only after the complete shrinkage of the bath, regardless of what material it is made of.
If you bought a bath project or drew it yourself with your own hands, then most likely you thought over the layout of the rooms (layout). The number of partitions, of course, depends on the number of rooms. There are at least two of them in the bath: a steam room and a washing room. Partitions can be made immediately during the construction of a frame frame from the same material as the walls (beam, log, brick). But you need to keep in mind that under such a partition you need a foundation the same as for the main walls, which in turn will lead to a significant increase in the cost of the bath. The process of building such a partition is no different from building walls. 
After construction, such partitions must be well caulked for better noise and heat insulation, and openings can be cut through only after the entire frame has subsided. If round logs or glued beams are used to build a partition, then such a wall does not require additional interior decoration. 
The easiest and most inexpensive way to make partitions in the bath with your own hands is to use frame technology construction. To do this, you need to purchase bars 50 by 100 mm, for the frame itself, insulation based on rock-mineral wool, vapor barrier and the actual finishing material, such as lining. Before the installation of the partition, the floors in the bath should already be done. We mark the location of the wall on the floor and fasten it to the floor long self-tapping screws(102 mm) or nails (120 mm) the bottom bar on which the vertical bars will rest. 
We nail or fasten a vertical rack to the wall according to the level from one and the other side of the wall, leaving a gap of five centimeters on top for the top bar. We put the upper beam on the vertical bars and fasten it to ceiling beams self-tapping screws. Thus, in the future, when installing the following vertical racks, we will not have to constantly control the vertical of the wall, but simply attach the racks to the upper and lower beams. 
Now we mount the vertical beams of the doorway and fasten them with galvanized corners. The following vertical beams must be placed at a distance of one centimeter less than the width of the insulation for a tighter fit. A standard insulation has dimensions of 60 cm by 100 cm, which means that the distance between the beams must be 59 cm. You should not make a larger distance between the bars, as this will reduce the strength of the partition. Vertical beams can be attached to the upper bar using galvanized metal corners or using 150 mm nails. To avoid cracking of the beam when fastened with a self-tapping screw or a nail, it must be drilled with a drill with a diameter of equal to the diameter fasteners (screws or nails). 
After mounting the frame, we tightly stretch the vapor barrier on one side of the wall and make a crate for mounting a lining or other finishing material such as drywall. For the crate, a lining sawn along or sawn along is suitable edged board. A width of five centimeters is enough for a crate bar. Now you can put insulation in this case 10 cm thick, or in two layers of 5 cm, but in this case it is necessary to overlap the joints. When laying the heater in the bath with your own hands, you must use tools personal protection and use a respirator. We close the insulation with a vapor barrier and make a crate. Do not use oilcloth or cellophane instead of vapor barrier, as this can lead to wetting of the insulation from condensate, which will form in the bath from temperature changes. The side of the partition that is in the washing room can be sheathed with moisture-resistant drywall and ceramic tiles or mosaics can be laid on it. From the side of the steam room, the partition must be sheathed with a clapboard not made of conifers wood, as it contains a lot of resin. For finishing the steam room bath is suitable lining made of linden or abash. 
For a rest room, an ordinary pine lining or block House is suitable. Sometimes the walls in the steam room are additionally covered with foil material, but this is only necessary for longer heat retention. If it is good to caulk and insulate the bath outside on your own, with your own hands, then the heat will not go anywhere for a long time, and the tree will “breathe” better.
Part of the partition in the bath near the stove is best made of brick. 
To do this, you need to pour a concrete base, which you can do with your own hands according to wooden beams. A wall thickness of half a brick will be enough. When laying bricks, it is necessary to monitor the vertical and horizontal walls. Completely do brick walls in wooden bath not worth it. it high costs on the material and under such a wall, a full-fledged foundation is already needed.
All the necessary communications are easily placed in wooden partitions: electrical wiring, water pipes. Partitions in a wooden bath should be made of natural material, such as a tree.
We will talk about the frame partition in the bath from log cabin separating the dressing room and washing department. The choice in favor of these rooms was made in order to be able to show how to make a partition with your own hands between such seemingly different bath rooms.
The wooden partition, which will be discussed in this article, is wooden frame, insulated with mineral wool and lined with clapboard.
Considering that in the washing department there is an insulated and reinforced concrete screed 150 mm thick, then a concrete curb 125 mm wide and 100 mm high was made to install the base of the frame. In addition, a concrete curb will allow ceramic tiles to be laid along the partition, isolating wood paneling water walls.
A concrete border can be made both during the pouring of the screed, and during the installation of the partition, using a home-made wooden formwork. For a better bond between the poured concrete and the floor, its surface should be treated with deep soil and concrete contact, for example, from Knauf.
The vertical racks of the frame and are made of planed bars: internal - 50x100 mm, and extreme and in doorway– 60x100 mm. Horizontal tie bars (upper and lower) have a section of 60x100 mm. All lintels are made of 50x100 mm bar.
The base is fixed to the concrete curb with 16 mm anchors. The end posts are installed in the groove in and fixed to it with 8x90 mm hex screws. In order for the frame not to interfere with the settlement of the log house, oval longitudinal grooves are made in the uprights. This will allow the screws to slide along with the wall and not create excessive stress on the frame, and with it on the entire partition.
The upper tie bar does not reach the ceiling by 30 mm. This gap serves to compensate for settlement or expansion of the log house as a result of atmospheric phenomena and the change of seasons. The groove in the wall is carved to its full height, starting from the floor in the dressing room and ending with the ceiling.
Mineral (basalt) wool 100 mm thick is used as a heater, for example "Rockwool". Some frame cells have dimensions of 600x1200 mm, which corresponds to standard sizes produced cotton. The cotton wool is closed and fixed with a stapler on both sides of the frame with a polyethylene film, which prevents the penetration of moisture into the cotton wool, thereby maintaining all its heat-insulating sound-absorbing properties.
Eurolining is fastened with kleimers on a crate of slats 25x50 mm. The crate itself is mounted on top polyethylene film and attached to the frame with wood screws. The direction of laying the lining is from the very corner of the partition using the “thorn in the groove” method, and not vice versa. On the side of the dressing room, the lowest lath of the crate is additionally fixed to the floor, and in the washing compartment it is placed on a concrete curb and attached only to uprights frame.
The final finishing of the partition is made after the installation of the door frame. First, skirting boards are installed, which at one end are inserted into the groove of the wall. Then the edges of the partition are closed with a board (platband), which are also inserted into the same grooves.
The upper casing is attached directly to the ceiling with the condition that it will move freely with it during the log house settlement, without affecting the partition itself. The gap between the ceiling and the top of the partition is sealed with cotton wool or other heat-insulating material.
Connections wooden elements manufactured using galvanized wood screws. Open parts are also fastened with self-tapping screws. So that the screw heads are not visible, you can pre-drill a stepped hole, and after screwing in the self-tapping screw, close it with a wooden dowel (pin) of the same diameter.
From the washing side, the bottom of the wall is finished ceramic tiles, and then a lining is placed on it butt. A plank (plinth) is attached to the bottom of the lining along the entire partition to the frame racks, which closes both the lining and part of the tile.
The order of work on the construction of a frame partition with your own hands
Perhaps I should not have described the design of the wooden partition in such detail, but start immediately with the order of work for its installation. However, what is done cannot be taken back. And to whom it will not be interesting, he can immediately go to this section of the article, using it at the beginning.
Preparing the concrete base and log walls
Installation of a wooden partition frame
Note: at this stage of work it is necessary Special attention pay attention to the alignment accuracy of the frame frame, as this will affect the quality of the entire inner wall. Verticals, horizontals, flatness, dimensions - all this will affect how we get a partition.
Insulation and installation of crates on the frame
Note: the film can be placed under the base of the frame already at the stage of its installation. Then the issue of fixing it in the lower part will be immediately resolved.
Installing a door frame in a partition wall
Ceramic tiling in washroom
This operation can be performed both before lining the clapboard, and after it. The main thing is that the junction of the forcing and the end of the ceramic tile should be done accurately and without gaps. As for laying tiles on the floor, this can be done at any time.
Sheathing clapboard on the crate
You have to start from the very corner. The clapboard is sheathed according to the "thorn in the groove" method. That is, the last fixed element must have an open groove. 
Each subsequent element is inserted with a spike into the groove of the previously fixed lining, and with the help of metal clamps (fastening brackets) it is fixed to the crate. The last lining is cut under right size and secured with self-tapping screws. You can see details on how to fix the lining.
Installation of platbands, skirting boards and sealing the edges of the partition
Finally
This version of the design of the wooden partition is intended for the log cabin of the bath, which stood for the allotted time and gave a full draft. The compensation gap (30 mm) between the partition and the ceiling is designed only for changing the dimensions of the log house under the influence of atmospheric influences and weather conditions.
If there is a need to build a partition in the bath until the log house is completely settled, then this gap should be increased to 60-80 mm.
On the side of the washing compartment, the frame sheathing can be made of waterproof drywall. In this case wooden crate should be replaced metal profile. Such a partition can be easily lined with ceramic tiles and easily equipped there.
It should be remembered that the cut grooves in log walls reduce their strength. Moreover, the deeper and wider the groove, the lower the strength of the wall. To protect the logs from rolling (deformation), it is necessary to tie the logs at the site of the intended partition with wooden dowels, as a rule, with a diameter of 30 mm, already at the stage of wall construction. How to do this, you can read in the article about.
Go to main article-content: SergeyBath is a building in which a person has a rest. It can consist of several rooms (steam room, small room, closet, bathroom, shower). If the bath is being rebuilt, then all rooms are divided at once.
In the case when the bath is done indoors, and you need to divide the room into a steam room and a room, then it is necessary to put down partitions. The partition material can be processed beam.
Partitions in the bath are made in order to separate the premises for their intended purpose. The steam room is separated from the main rest room, as well as a wardrobe and a bathroom. Partitions can be done from a wooden bar, a brick, a metal profile.
The most reliable material for partitions is a brick. Such partitions have high strength, resistance to mechanical stress. The only difficulty in laying brick partitions is mixing the mortar, preparing the bricks, and plastering the surface.
So this way turns into hard work. In addition, after installing the partition, it takes time for the solution to firmly set, until it dries completely.
The most common way to install a partition in a bath is wooden beam . A frame made of timber will allow you to quickly mount the base of the partition. Frame jumpers are installed every 50 cm.
First, a guide bar is installed at the top and bottom, and then jumpers are attached. The space between the beam fill with insulation(basalt wool, mineral wool), then a layer of foil reflector is laid. After installing the insulation elements, the frame is sutured wooden clapboard hardwood (linden, aspen, cedar).
Insulation of the walls of the bath is an integral element of the design of partitions and walls. Bath insulation necessary to maintain the existing temperature regime in the wig.
As heaters are roll elements of mineral wool, basalt wool, expanded polystyrene squares, polyurethane foam rectangular plates.
The most reliable of heaters for internal partitions baths is polyurethane foam. It is, accordingly, the most expensive. It consists of a two-component substance that allows you to keep the heat in the room as much as possible and prevent the ingress of cold from the external environment.
The cheapest way to insulate partitions in the bath, is mineral wool. It is sold in a roll and fits tightly between the partitions. For rooms with high humidity minvata is not very suitable. More often use ecowool with a special coating.
Also used for vapor barrier foil mineral wool, which is laid on the insulation and attached to the frame.
After the construction of the bath, it becomes necessary to handle protective equipment . For the premises of the bath, there are always characteristic temperature differences. Especially if the bath or steam room is located indoors at home.
it ideal conditions for the reproduction of fungi, the spread of mold and other wood decay processes. In this regard, all surfaces of the steam room and baths in general need processing.
Treatment of the bath rooms is carried out using antiseptic substances. In general, there are many means and substances with which all surfaces are processed, including shelves, deck chairs, and other sauna attributes made of wood.
When processing a bath can be used:
- Acrylic protective agents and coatings;
- Before purchasing lining or deck chairs, you need to ask about the material. The ideal option for a bath there will be one that is dried in special chambers. He is less affected different insects and wood bugs that spoil the tree;
- Spirit solution of wax. This processing method is considered the most environmentally friendly;
- Most available funds processing: impregnations and oils on natural basis. Such substances completely exclude damage to the materials of the steam room due to exposure to temperature changes;
- In the bathhouse is a must must be ventilated.
Also watch a useful video on how to make partitions in the bath
